Welcome to Buckinghamshire

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Contents

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09 Welcome Stunning English countryside and chocolate-box villages galore await.

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12 Love Buckinghamshire There are many reasons to love it here – try some of these for starters.

15 History & heritage Discover a county renowned for its fascinating and ancient past.

16 Days out You’ll never be short of things to do and places to explore in this county, with plenty of top attractions for all the family to enjoy.

22 Weekender Tight for time? Here are some ideas for a memorable short break to Buckinghamshire.

24 Shopping Shopaholics will love Bucks for its mix of boutiques, high street staples and independents.

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Situated in the heart of Aylesbury, The Manor is Buckinghamshire’s premium restaurant, cocktail bar and rooftop establishment, the first of its kind. Consisting of three floors with unique decor and ambience specifically curated to each environment, guests venture from far and wide to experience what The Manor has to offer. The venue greets you at the restaurant – a rustic and relaxed dining setting, serving an array of scrumptious cuisines through seasonal tapas dishes where only the finest local produce is used. Secondly, the dazzling cocktail lounge boasts an elegant and graceful atmosphere with its magnetising starry lighting, plush velvet furnishing and showcase cocktails made by experienced mixologists. Finally, the rooftop consists of both covered and open heated seating areas, fire pits and a subtle mix of acoustic and house music. Sip on exclusive cocktails and watch the day slowly draw to an end as twilight engulfs the Chilterns.

Open Monday - Sunday T: 01296 331813 The Manor, 5 Long Lional, Aylesbury, Bucks. HP20 1QY (for car parking)

Visit www.themanoraylesbury.co.uk for bookings, menus and opening times


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36 Eating out From ramen to risotto and vegan to steakhouse, every type of food lover is catered for here.

50 Arts & culture This county is full of inspiring arts and culture and overflowing with festivals and exhibitions.

56 After dark The nightlife in Buckinghamshire is thriving, packed with clubs, pubs and live music venues.

62 Things to do Make sure you don’t leave here without checking out these must-see attractions.

64 Sport & leisure There are plenty of opportunities to participate in sport here – but those who prefer to watch are well-catered for too.

66 Travel Getting to this county couldn’t be simpler and visitors can also get around with ease.

68 Beyond Buckinghamshire Although Buckinghamshire has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure.

70 Photo finish A final look at this beautiful county – the Palladian Bridge at Stowe Landscape Garden and park.

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WELCOME

Welcome to Buckinghamshire Stunning English countryside and chocolate-box villages galore await

elcome to Buckinghamshire – and may we congratulate you on your choice of destination! This county is known for its lovely countryside and historic houses, but there’s much more to it than that. It will surprise you, impress you and fill you with inspiration – and it’s also the base for a trip around South East England. The south of Buckinghamshire is right on London’s doorstep and is home to the towns of High Wycombe, Beaconsfield, Marlow and Amersham. Further north is Aylesbury Vale with its enchanting villages, market towns and magnificent country houses, while dotted around our stunning countryside and villages is a wealth of charming country inns, many of which are destinations in themselves. But it’s not all pretty surroundings and lovely vistas, impressive though they undoubtedly are. Buckinghamshire also has great modern shopping, eating out, arts and culture, and some of the best places to stay in the country. And many of our attractions are open all year round, so finding something to do, with or without children, is so easy. The Chiltern Hills are ripe for exploring, with endless footpaths rambling through beech-wood forests, often alongside spectacular waterways such as the River Thames and Grand Union Canal. Just as much fun can be had exploring the Chiltern Open Air Museum, while Waddesdon Manor is a must-see for lovers of fine art and architecture and gardens. For families, children will be enchanted by Bekonscot Model Village. All in all, you’ve picked a great time to visit our wonderful county, so please enjoy everything it has to offer, and come back and visit us soon!

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“This county is known for its lovely countryside and historic houses, but there’s much more to it than that. It will surprise you, impress you and fill you with inspiration – and it’s also the base for a trip around South East England”

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Maaya Indian Kitchen & Bar The true taste of eating out has never been better

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ining out, meeting with friends, laughing and enjoying the good things in life is better now than it has ever been. Maaya Indian Kitchen & Bar, located in The Hub Milton Keynes, welcomes guests throughout the week to sample its awardwinning dishes and authentic Indian cuisine that is well known for its incredible flavours. Using only the freshest ingredients and

spices, the collection of chefs have over 100 years’ experience in the kitchen between them and live for the excitement and challenge of a busy weekend rush. There are no measuring tools or scales, each dish is cooked from memory and a passion for knowing each flavour, guests can even request how spicy they’d like their own dish to be. The restaurant motto, and although it may

THE HUB, 2 RILLATON WALK, MILTON KEYNES MK9 2FZ

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01908 242665

be an old one, it’s very true – ‘the customer always comes first’. Maaya continues to be a popular destination for visitors to Milton Keynes, it was once the only independent restaurant in The Hub when it opened in 2016 and has since become an icon of central MK. Having won most Indian and restaurant accolades, including the British Curry Awards, Maaya has adapted its business to cater for


MAAYA INDIAN KITCHEN & BAR | PROMOTION

“Using only the freshest ingredients and spices, the collection of chefs at Maaya have over 100 years’ experience in the kitchen between them and live for the excitement and challenge of a busy weekend rush” dine in guests as well as those that want to take a piece of the culinary ‘magic’ home. The staff, many are from the same family, have been there for years and have a wonderful relationship with the diners and have got to know regular guests well over the years. Their infectious smiles and laughter adds to the great atmosphere of the place whatever day of the week it is. Try visiting on a Friday

when there will often be live music in the background for all guests to enjoy. The main menu is something to admire. With dishes created from family experiences and adventures around India, it’s not your usual curry house that’s for sure. Also, unlike tradition would dictate, guests can even enjoy an Indian afternoon tea selection or bottomless Prosecco brunch, plus the cocktails have been recognised too as

some of the finest in the region. During the warmer weather, Maaya also offers its flavour-infused BBQ packs, which consists of marinated meats ready for the summer BBQ. So, whether you’re booking for one or planning a party, Maaya can do it with an added touch of style. To pre-book a table at Maaya visit www.maayamiltonkeynes.com or call 01908 242665.

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Reasons to love this region… There are many reasons to love it here – try some of these for starters

GLORIOUS GARDENS Bucks is home to more National Trust properties than any other county, many blessed with jaw-droppingly beautiful gardens. Picture perfect views, long winding paths and flower-filled formal gardens make the heart sing at Cliveden (pictured), Stowe, Hughendon and Waddesdon Manor.

WONDERFUL WALKING Walking and cycling opportunities in Buckinghamshire are exceptional. Over a third of the county is covered by the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and there are over 2,500 miles of public rights of way including National Trails. There’s also the 11-mile network of locks, towpaths and trails of the 200-yearold Grand Union Canal, and, of course, numerous woodlands and country parks.

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LOVE BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

WILDLIFE SUCCESS STORY Anyone who visits Buckinghamshire immediately notices the majestic red kites soaring overhead. Once a very rare bird that could only be found in Wales, the red kite has been successfully reintroduced to the Chilterns – look out for its forked tail, white flashed wings and distinctive ‘mewing’ calls.

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THAMES TREASURE Whether messing about on, in or near it, the River Thames offers year-round pleasure to walkers, rowers, sailors, fishermen, bird watchers… the list goes on!

DINERS’ DELIGHT Modern, classic, Thai, Indian, budget or Michelin-starred, you’ll find plenty to tickle your tastebuds. Real foodies should book ahead to secure a table at Tom Kerridge’s double Michelin-starred Hand and Flowers in Marlow – double yummy!

MARVELLOUS MUSEUMS Discover the area’s rich past and its famous residents at one of the many museums dotted about the county. Of special interest are the Chiltern Open Air Museum (pictured), the Buckinghamshire Railway Centre and the Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre.

SPECTACULAR SPORTS Watching or participating, there’s lots of choice. See MK Dons FC, Wycombe Wanderers FC or London Wasps in action, or head to Silverstone for F1 thrills. Golfers are spoilt for choice at a raft of courses. And it’s ski season all year round at Snozone in Milton Keynes.

AWESOME ART Marvel at the Rothschild’s amazing collection of French decorative art at Waddesdon Manor, or nip over the border to Cookham, beloved home of one of the world’s greatest painters, Sir Stanley Spencer. The intimate gallery in the village houses more than 100 of his works (pictured).

You’ll also love…

TOP SHOPPING The nation’s favourite pastime is well catered for in Bucks, with a mix of lively urban centres, picturesque market towns, traditional high street names and individual shops. The centre:mk in Milton Keynes is one of the area’s biggest shopping centres. Boutiques and small independent shops are numerous; also look out for farmers’ markets and farm shops for tempting local treats. Total shopaholics can travel to nearby Bicester Village for excellent savings on a range of designer goods.

BIRTHPLACE OF THE PARALYMPICS The redeveloped Stoke Mandeville Stadium is known as the home of wheelchair sport and the birthplace of the Paralympic Games. It is now a state-of-the-art leisure complex and the national centre for disability sport.

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Macmillan Cancer Support, registered charity in England and Wales (261017), Scotland (SC039907) and the Isle of Man (604). Also operating in Northern Ireland.


HISTORY & HERITAGE

Take a step back in time Discover a county renowned for its fascinating and ancient past

he historic county of Buckinghamshire has been in existence since it was a sub-division of the kingdom of Wessex in the 10th century. It was formed from about 200 communities that could between them fund a castle in Buckingham, to defend against invading Danes. The name itself means ‘the district (scire) of Bucca’s home’ – Bucca’s home referring to Buckingham, the name for an Anglo-Saxon landowner. The county’s history dates back to the Celtic and Roman periods. Aylesbury, for example, is known from archaeological digs to date back to 1500BC and the Icknield Way, which crosses the county, is pre-Roman in origin. It is the Anglo-Saxons, though, who had the greatest impact on the county – one of the great battles was fought between Cerdic of Wessex, his son Cynric and the Britons at Chearsley.

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POLITICAL ARENA During his reign William the Conqueror annexed most of the manors for himself and his family. Later, Buckinghamshire became an important political arena, with King Henry VIII intervening in local politics in the 16th century with the Dissolution of the Monasteries. Henry VIII was also responsible for making Aylesbury the official county town over Buckingham, in order to curry favour with Anne Boleyn’s father Thomas. Just a century later the English Civil War was reputedly started by ‘The Patriot’ John Hampden in mid-Bucks. Throughout the war Buckinghamshire was mostly Parliamentarian, although some pockets of Royalism did exist. Some villages to the west of the county, Brill and Boarstall for example, were under constant conflict for the duration. The Industrial Revolution brought the railway and completely changed the landscape. Wolverton in the north (now part of Milton Keynes) became a national centre for railway carriage construction and furniture and paper industries took hold in the south. In the centre, the lace industry grew rapidly.

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Chiltern Open Air Museum, Chalfont St Peter

The 19th century brought cholera and famine to the rural community, forcing many to migrate to larger towns to find work, leaving land going cheap for rich landowners. Mass urbanisation came in the 20th century and the new town of Milton Keynes was formed. Slough, once a part of Bucks, was transferred in 1974 to Berkshire. The county has been home to a number of famous inhabitants throughout its history, including: John Hampden – a key figure in the English Civil War movement; Sir Francis Dashwood – aristocrat who founded the debaucherous ‘Hell Fire Club’; Florence Nightingale – The ‘Lady of the Lamp’; Amy Johnson – the first woman to fly solo to Australia; Sir John Mills much-loved actor; writers John Milton, Mary and Percy Bysshe Shelley, Jerome K Jerome, T.S Elliot, Enid

Blyton, Roald Dahl and Sir Steve Redgrave, Olympic rower. The late TV personalities Cilla Black and Terry Wogan also had homes in Buckinghamshire. If you are a history buff, why not visit one of the county’s marvellous museums? A first stop should be the Chiltern Open Air Museum which ‘rescues’ historic houses and workplaces of ordinary people. More than 2,000 years of local history is here to see, from an iron age hut to a post-war prefab and even an Edwardian loo! Also visit the Discover Bucks Museum and the museums at Amersham, Wycombe, Marlow and Chesham. Discover the county’s military history at Buckingham’s Old Gaol or Boarstall Tower, or the World War II historic site of Bletchley Park – the home of British codebreaking.

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Great days out for all You’ll never be short of things to do and places to explore in this county, with plenty of top attractions for all the family to enjoy

id you know that Buckinghamshire is blessed with more National Trust properties than any county in England? So why not spend a day visiting one – or two – of them, from the impressive stately homes and gardens to more modest glimpses into the past.

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FORMAL GARDENS Well worth a mention is Cliveden, in Taplow. Overlooking the Thames, the far-reaching views over formal gardens are a sight to see. Younger visitors can enjoy the storybook play den, woodland play trail and challenging maze, and

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rowing boats are available to hire on the river below. The actual house is now a luxury hotel, but visitors can enjoy the grounds and a delicious meal at the restaurant. Another must is the magnificent mansion of the Rothschild dynasty, Waddesdon Manor. The beautiful French renaissance-style château and gardens – built from 1877 by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild to display his outstanding collection of art treasures – is a draw at any time of year, but never more so than at Christmas. Seeing all the rooms decorated with beautiful Christmas trees is magical, and the fun doesn’t stop there. Outside is a traditional festive market where more than 60 traders

Above Enjoy a day out with the whole family at Waddesdon Manor; Opposite page Statue of Polyhymnia, Muse of religious hymns, at Stowe Landscape Garden


©NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/HUGH MOTHERSOLE/NATIONALTRUST.ORG.UK

DAYS OUT

“The beautiful French renaissance-style château and gardens – built from 1877 by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild to display his outstanding collection of art treasures – is a draw at any time of year, but never more so than at Christmas”

home, arts and treasures, stunning gardens and parkland, and now it has just launched a magical new adventure playground, Tumblestone Hollow, for the little ones. Or why not visit the oldest-dated windmill in Britain, Pitstone Windmill, thought to have been built in 1627 (at the time of writing, the windmill was closed to visitors due to Covid restrictions, but hopes are that it will open very soon). Alternatively, Quainton Windmill is open every Sunday, March to October, restrictions allowing.

peddle their wares. Previous years have included spectacular outdoor lights installations. Buckinghamshire boasts an abundance of glorious gardens, including the world-famous Capability Browndesigned Stowe Landscape Garden. Described as the finest outdoor work of art in Europe, Stowe has been attracting visitors for 300 years. Equally charming are the sunken gardens (and haunted staircase!) at Chenies Manor; house and gardens at Claydon House near Buckingham; The Lyde Garden in Bledlow; the Cowper & Newton Museum Gardens in Olney; or the sunken garden at Ascott House and Gardens in Wing. Ascott houses an exceptional collection of paintings, fine furniture and superb oriental porcelain. Stonor Park has outdone itself recently – stately

BEAUTIFUL WOODLAND For something a bit different, combine a visit to the very unique Boarstall Duck Decoy. Once a common sight on rural estates, this 16th-century invention for catching waterfowl has all but disappeared, and there are only a handful remaining. The decoy at Boarstall is surrounded by beautiful woodland, with an abundance of bird life and many nesting and feeding sites. The rich wildlife of Buckinghamshire can be viewed elsewhere at one of the many nature reserves or county parks; from the ancient oak woodland and prehistoric geological landforms at Stockgrove Country Park to Bacombe Hill, noted for its orchids and butterflies. Haddenham’s Snakemoor Nature Trail offers a u p19

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PULL A POWERPOSE NE XT TO M ATILDA Book in advance at roalddahl.com/museum Great Missenden, Buckinghamshire

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Waddesdon, a Rothschild House & Gardens

HOUSE I GARDENS I AVIARY I WINE CELLARS I EXHIBITIONS I PLAYGROUND Waddesdon Manor Nr Aylesbury, Bucks HP18 0JH

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DAYS OUT

“Older kids and the young at heart will enjoy the adrenaline rush of high-ropes treetop adventure, Go Ape, at either Black Park, Iver or Wendover Woods; or Treetop Extreme in the hugely popular Willen Lake in Milton Keynes”

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pleasant walk through ever-changing fauna and flora, while birdwatchers should visit Boughton Lake. For wildlife of a stiller variety, hop over the border to the Natural History Museum at Tring – open Tuesday to Sunday and bank holidays – built in 1889 to house the incredible zoological collections of Walter Rothschild. Discover animal specimens from all over the world, from tiny beetles to enormous bears. You can also see the acclaimed Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition between mid-December and March. HEDGEHOG TALKS More lively specimens can be found at Tiggywinkles Wildlife Hospital, Haddenham, where sick, injured and orphaned British wildlife are treated. Visitors can enjoy hedgehog talks (about, not with!) and viewing windows into the hospital, where you can see patients being treated. Younger children will simply adore Odds Farm Park at Wooburn Common, or Green Dragon Eco Farm over in Hogshaw. Both offer giant indoor play barns, animal petting and feeding, plus other activities that ensure kids are like, well, pigs in muck. Talking of pigs, Kew Little Pigs in Amersham is micro-pig paradise, where visitors can pet and groom the animals. Another option is Thrift Farm in Milton Keynes, set up to offer employment and support to adults with learning

Above left to right Spend the day feeling larger than life at Bekonscot Model Village in Beaconsfield; Swing from the trees at Treetop Extreme at Willen Lake in Milton Keynes; Below Listen to a hedgehog talk at Tiggywinkles Wildlife Hospital in Haddenham

difficulties, and offering magnificent home-made food. Little ones can feel like giants for once at two of Buckinghamshire’s biggest attractions: Bekonscot Model Village in Beaconsfield, the oldest model village in the world; and Gullivers Land Theme Park in Milton Keynes, which caters for children aged two to 14, with a number of rides designed for the under-fives. Older kids and the young at heart will enjoy the adrenaline rush of high-ropes treetop adventure, Go Ape, at either Black Park, Iver or Wendover Woods; or Treetop Extreme in the hugely popular Willen Lake in Milton Keynes. Speed down zip wires, leap off a Tarzan swing and tackle a variety of rope obstacles. Unique to Black Park (for now) is Go Ape’s Nets Kingdom – a series of tree houses linked by nets full of inflatable balls and slides to get you back to the ground. Or get the heart thumping at the Xscape entertainment complex in Milton Keynes, which offers fun in the extreme, with virtual reality experiences, indoor snowboarding, rock climbing and even indoor sky diving. There’s boarding of a different kind available at Vale Park Skate Park in Aylesbury, or Aston Hill Bike Park in Wendover Woods, which features lots of runs. For more skate parks, visit skateparks.co.uk. For the ultimate thrill, head to the home of British Motor Sport, Silverstone Circuit, which bridges the Buckinghamshire/Northamptonshire border. u p20

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Watch a race, take a tour, or emulate your F1 hero from the cockpit of a racing car on one of its exhilarating race experiences. You can even put your own car through its paces, with expert in-car instruction around the UK’s biggest and most demanding track. If you’d rather take your leisure time down a gear, why not jump on a steam train at The Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway. Historic steam and vintage diesel

“Go time travelling at the Chiltern Open Air Museum in Chalfont St Giles, where historic buildings and demonstrations bring to life 2,000 years of its past in a beautiful parkland setting” services run the seven-mile round trips on Sundays, bank holidays and some Saturdays. There are also special-event days throughout the year, such as the Santa Specials in December. Alternatively, the Buckinghamshire Railway Centre in Quainton is a working steam museum housing a large collection of locomotives, rolling stock and railway memorabilia. On steam days, visitors can ride in vintage

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carriages pulled by a full-sized steam engine and travel on the miniature railway. You could even take part in a chauffeured tour of the Chilterns on a fabulous, chauffeured Boom trike experience from Chiltern Trike Tours! Buckinghamshire has a varied past, and it’s fun to go time travelling at the Chiltern Open Air Museum, where historic buildings and demonstrations bring to life 2,000 years of its past in a beautiful parkland setting. The museum houses more than 30 reconstructed traditional Chilterns’ buildings from the Iron Age to World War II, including a newly reconstructed Wychert (limestone earth) cottage from Haddenham in the Aylesbury Vale. HELLFIRE CAVES A fascinating look into Wycombe’s history can be found 500m underground at Hellfire Caves in West Wycombe. The network of man-made chalk and flint caverns was excavated around 1750 for Francis Dashwood, 11th Baron le Despencer, co-founder of the notorious Hellfire Club, whose meetings were held in the caves. There are numerous museums across the county telling fascinating tales of the past. Find out about the area’s furniture-making heritage at the Wycombe Museum – not


DAYS OUT

to be confused with High Wycombe Chair Making Museum nearby – while Discover Bucks Museum in Aylesbury unveils the region’s rich cultural heritage and includes the wildly popular Roald Dahl Children’s Gallery. Amersham Museum has recently undergone a huge makeover, the redisplay focuses on five key dates in the town’s history, while the county’s military history is well documented at Buckingham’s Old Gaol, where more than 270 years of dark, damp, desperate prison life is depicted. Further military might and cunning is on display at the World War II site of Bletchley Park, where you can unearth the secrets of strategic deception, code-breaking and evacuee stories, and see one of the famous Enigma machines. Also on the site, yet operating independently, is The National Museum of Computing (TNMOC), home to the largest collection of functional historic computers in Europe, including a rebuilt Colossus, the world’s first electronic computer.

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INTERACTIVE EXHIBITS For kids, the Milton Keynes Museum is ideal, as they are encouraged to touch and try all the interactive exhibits. Visitors can go back to a Victorian school room, play parlour games, and experience Connected Earth, where you can send and receive messages in Morse Code. No visit to Buckinghamshire is complete without boggling your eyes and baffling your brain at one of its Roald Dahl-inspired attractions. Great Missenden’s Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre invites intrepid storymakers to enter through the chocolate doors into a great little award-winning museum, featuring fun and fact-packed biographical galleries, a fantabulous interactive story centre, and George’s Crafty Kitchen. Meanwhile, the Roald Dahl Children’s Gallery over in Aylesbury’s Discover Bucks Museum contains minibeasts in the Giant Peach, Matilda’s library and the Twit’s upside-down room. Dahl lived in Great Missenden for 36 years. The Roald Dahl Village Trail is a whoopsy-wiffling way to find out more about the places that inspired him, such as the library visited by Matilda while her mum went off to

Aylesbury to play bingo. Look out for the BFG’s footsteps near to Dahl’s final resting place. Speaking of trails, Buckinghamshire Tourism has come up with a great idea, capitalising on one of Britain’s most popular programmes – Midsomer Murders. Much of the corpse-strewn series is filmed in the county, and the trail, 120 miles and more than 130 murders long, takes in some of the most picturesque locations. Try the Marlow Trail – 17 miles of grizzly goings-on. Or why not walk in the footsteps of World War I soldiers on one of the various heritage walks? You can even visit the restored trenches at RAF Halton in Wendover. Also in Wendover, in the woods, you’ll find the Gruffalo Trail – simply download the app and look out for Mouse, Snake et al. For trails of a more traditional kind, the walking and cycling opportunities in Buckinghamshire are exceptional. Over a third of the county is covered by the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and there are over 2,500 miles of public rights of way, including National Trails. There’s also the 11-mile network of locks, towpaths and trails of the 200-year-old Grand Union Canal, and of course numerous woodlands and country parks. Of note are Burnham Beeches, Willen Lake, Wendover Woods, Emberton Country Park and Black Park.

Opposite page Victorian toll house at Chiltern Open Air Museum in Chalfont St Giles; Above Kids will love the Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre in Great Missenden; Below left Step back in time with a trip to Bletchley Park in Milton Keynes

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Only here for the weekend? Tight for time? Here are some ideas for a memorable short break to Buckinghamshire


WEEKENDER

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“Don’t forget to visit the Chinnor Windmill, currently being restored by volunteers and open to the public on alternate Sundays”

DAY ONE Start the day off bright and early in pretty Marlow and look out for Team GB rowers training on the River Thames. Enjoy breakfast at one of the town’s lovely cafes – try Coopers for speciality coffee. Explore the boutiques and little shops in the compact town centre. You will, of course, then need a cake – head to the tea room at Burgers Artisan Bakery. If you’re feeling energetic, stroll the five-and-a-half miles along the Thames to picturesque Cookham (allow approximately two hours for the walk). Alternatively, from June to September, you can hop aboard Salter’s Steamers passenger boat service for a leisurely amble along the river. When deposited in Cookham head to the Stanley Spencer Gallery, a wonderful collection of more than 100 of his paintings beautifully housed in a recently renovated chapel. From Cookham you are short trip away from the glorious Cliveden house and gardens, owned by the National Trust, and forever linked with the 1960s Profumo affair. Book in for a sumptuous lunch or high tea in the restaurant, or enjoy more informal fare in its cafes. Then spend the afternoon wandering through Cliveden’s 376 acres of magnificent formal gardens and parklands. Jump on the boat back to Marlow and enjoy a sundowner and dinner on the terrace beside the water at The Macdonald Compleat Angler Hotel. Culture vultures could take in a show in nearby High Wycombe at its charming theatre, the Wycombe Swan. Time to spare? Hire a rowing boat by the hour from the landing stage in Higginson Park in Marlow. Boats are available for hire from June to September.

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Opposite page clockwise from top Cliveden, Taplow; Buckinghamshire Railway Centre, Quainton; Waddesdon Manor, near Aylesbury; Above Chinnor Windmill; Enjoy a coffee at one of the county’s many cafes

DAY TWO Head on over to Aylesbury for a good breakfast. Pop in to the excellent Discover Bucks Museum where you can learn all about the county’s natural and cultural heritage, or find out about the county’s most famous resident, Roald Dahl, at the fabulous Roald Dahl Children’s Gallery (opening times vary). Visit the cafe for a light bite, or instead head on over to The Five Arrows, Waddesdon, for a slap-up lunch. From there it’s time to dust off that National Trust pass once more and explore wonderful Waddesdon Manor, formerly the Rothschild’s weekend retreat! Book to explore the sumptuous furnishings inside the house, or simply enjoy the acres of landscaped gardens and stocked aviary. Refreshments can be bought at the Stables Café if needed. If trains are more your thing, take an enchanting ride on a steam train at the Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway. Don’t forget to visit the Chinnor Windmill, currently being restored by volunteers and open to the public on alternate Sundays. Or why not visit the Buckinghamshire Railway Centre in Quainton where you can experience a fascinating display of working engines? Round off the day with the mouth-watering seven-course tasting menu at the Artichoke restaurant in Old Amersham, raved about by the locals and gathering a reputation as a bastion of fine dining.

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SHOPPING

Shopping with style… Shopaholics will love Buckinhamshire for its eclectic mix of boho-chic boutiques, high street staples and quirky independents

he nation’s favourite pastime is well catered for in Buckinghamshire. There is a wide variety of excellent shopping facilities all across the county, from lively urban centres to pretty market towns with traditional high streets and smaller unique shops. Market days offer excellent opportunities to sample and buy fresh produce, as well as unique gifts and crafts. Speciality breweries are a fun place to visit and stock up your cellar (ok, fridge).

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BICESTER VILLAGE But let’s start with the big boys, and they don’t come any bigger than Bicester Village. Many of Buckinghamshire’s shoppers have a taste for the finer things in life – but that doesn’t mean they don’t love a bargain. So, a quick hop, skip and jump over the border into nearby Oxfordshire brings them to Bicester Village – a designer shopping Shangri-La with up to 60 per cent off.

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More than six million people visit Bicester Village every year to bag a bargain on a range of designer goods. They come for the Alexander McQueen, the Céline, the Vivienne Westwood, the Prada, the Burberry... Some arrive by helicopter, landing in an adjoining field, but most drive or come by train – last year, they unveiled a station, the first new railway line to link London to another British city for 100 years. Second to Buckingham Palace, Bicester Village is the UK tourist attraction most visited by Chinese tourists – eight in 10 Chinese visitors to London make this pilgrimage during their visit. To welcome them, Marylebone train station has installed signs in Mandarin. Just outside of Buckinghamshire you’ll find Atria shopping centre in Watford. Home to more than 140 shops, restaurants and leisure attractions, plus four car parks and excellent travel links, Atria Watford is the place to go for unlimited retail therapy. u p29

Opposite page Head to Bicester Village for some great designer bargains

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Open to

A bigger, better day out?

Whether you’re shopping your favourite brands, enjoying top-notch food and entertainment, or just fancy exploring with friends or family, come and make a day of it at Atria Watford.

atriawatford.com


SHOPPING

Venture through the two levels of the shopping centre and browse the leading fashion, beauty and homeware stores – from M&S, Next and Primark, to Zara and H&M. For a well-deserved break from shopping, visit one of Atria Watford’s many coffee shops and eateries, including including The Florist, TGI Fridays, Yo! Sushi and Côte Brasserie. Staying near Milton Keynes? Then be sure to visit Centre:MK, the biggest shopping centre in the region. The centre hosts more than 400 stores, cafes and restaurants all under one roof, featuring brands such as All Saints, Michael Kors, Charlotte Tilbury, Crew Clothing, as well as a giant Primark, housed over three floors. Nearby mall, Midsummer Place (formerly intu), houses the ‘fashion quarter’. Anchored by Next Beauty & Home, it is home to more than 50 stores, including Apple, Zara, Lego and Michael Kors.

In Aylesbury’s town centre, you can enjoy modern shopping centres, specialist shops, and find a bargain at the market. The town centre hosts two main shopping centres – Friars Square and Hale Leys – both under cover, which makes shopping in poor weather a brighter experience. Other hunting grounds can be found near the Market Square. The square itself hosts traditional open-air markets, with a vintage and craft bazaar every Tuesday and a general market every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Delicious local produce can be found at the farmers’ markets, which are held on the last Tuesday of every month. For interesting gifts, check out the intriguing Aces High Aviation Gallery for flight-related art, or the Bucks County Museum shop for artists’ work from The Buckinghamshire Craft Guild. High Wycombe is another thriving market town – albeit a town of two halves. On the one hand, there’s the Wycombe of old, centred around the lively market held every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday, with chain stores and independents offering anything from sweets to saris to school shoes. u p30

Below Shopaholics don’t want to miss out on a trip to Centre:MK – you won’t be disappointed

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OUTDOOR MARKET If you’re a foodie or a bargain hunter, nip outside to the outdoor market, which takes place every day except Mondays and Wednesdays. Also, seek out one of the city’s genuine French, German and Italian markets, plus the odd vintage market, held within the city centre. Other well-known brands can be found at MK1 (Marks & Spencer, H&M, River Island) together with eateries and an ODEON IMAX cinema. Also, check out The Hub in central Milton Keynes for a mix of shops and lively restaurants and bars. Five farmers’ markets operate each month within the surrounding areas of Newport Pagnell, Olney, Woburn, Stony Stratford and Wolverton.

“The centre hosts more than 400 stores, cafes and restaurants all under one roof, featuring brands such as Michael Kors and Charlotte Tilbury, as well as a giant Primark, housed over three floors”

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A B C AYLESBURY BULLION COMPANY The Family of Jewellers

11a, High St Aylesbury Buckinghamshire HP20 1SH Tel:

01296 423198

Jewellery designed and produced to your specifications, or choose from our extensive range of new, secondhand and antique pieces. l Diamond merchants (certified stones always available) l Antique restorations l Hand engraving l Valuations: insurance and probate (carried out on the premises) l Insurance claims advisors l Complete repair service

Servicing of Rolex, Tag, Omega, Raymond Weil, Gucci etc. Batteries fitted and waterproof testing carried out on the premises. Top prices paid in cash for antique and modern jewellery, watches (especially Rolex), coins, gold, silver, platinum and scrap precious metals. Part exchange available.

BESPOKE DESIGNERS High Wycombe itself has a rich history of furniture manufacturing – in fact Wycombe was the chair-making capital of the world throughout the 19th century, the Windsor chair being the most famous. Visit the High Wycombe Chair Making Museum and craft shop for more information. While the trade is nowhere near what it once was, you’ll find plenty of bespoke designers and restorers in the area. The world-famous ercol manufacturer moved its factory out of Wycombe in the 90s over to Princes Risborough. Talking of furniture, those looking for lovingly recycled

11a High Street, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP20 1SH Tel: 01296 423198 www.aylesburybullion.co.uk Vale Life : Nov/Dec 2019

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Then there’s the bustling atmosphere of the Eden Shopping Centre, a shopping area that has turned High Wycombe’s fortunes around. Featuring many popular brands (Sketchers, Waterstones, Zara, etc), it also has a selection of eateries, a bowling alley and a cinema. For something original, look up the Craft Coop, where local artists peddle their wares. For lower-priced brands (Primark, Wilkinson), the Chilterns Shopping Centre is the place to go, and just outside the town centre sits an ever-expanding John Lewis – a magnet to all local shoppers.

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SHOPPING

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“It’s the quirky independents that make Bucks such a great place to explore. Shopping centres have their place, of course, but it’s the boutiques and small shops that add so much to the character of most market towns in the county”

pieces should visit A World of Old over in Wing, near Leighton Buzzard. But back to Wycombe. Travel a few minutes along the road and it feels like stepping back in time. West Wycombe is a lovely, tiny one-street, medieval village lined with cottages and inns of varying styles, dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries. Uniquely, the village is owned and maintained by the National Trust. The Apple Orchard is great for its one-of-a-kind gifts and homewares. It is these types of quirky independents that make Bucks such a great place to explore. Shopping centres have their place, of course, but it’s the boutiques and small shops that add so much to the character of most market towns throughout the county. Amersham’s historic Old Town stocks everything from antiques to contemporary fashion. Search out the unique specialist stores along Whielden Street, Market Walk, the Broadway and London Road. Don’t miss some fantastic independent boutiques, including Ambers, Chattertons and Orvis Country Clothing. You’ll also find high-end high-street stores, such as Whistles and Hobbs. Artisan Limited Edition is a great place to pick up beautiful accessories and jewellery. ‘New’ Amersham, or Amersham on the Hill as it’s

known, has a wide selection of stores, from clothes and gifts to food. Of note is The Record Shop, where you can buy new and old merch. Further up the hill, you’ll find Chesham, an attractive market town full of hidden treasures. The pedestrianised town centre houses unique specialist stores, collector’s shops, booksellers and art galleries. There is a twiceweekly market (Wednesdays and Saturdays), as well as the occasional French Market. UPMARKET SHOPS The ‘stockbroker belt’ town of Beaconsfield boasts a number of upmarket shops, such as Space NK, Crew Clothing and Mint Velvet, but also a surprising amount of charity shops – including Oxfam’s excellent book shop. Nearby Chalfont St Peter, Chalfont St Giles and Gerrards Cross are delightful places to shop – quintessentially English villages with charming boutiques, gift shops, and of course plenty of places to sip tea! Of note are Fired Works’ beautiful selection of crafted fused glass, and Emerald Gallery’s collection by local artists. Both shops are in Chalfont St Peter. Marlow is often referred to as the jewel in Buckinghamshire’s crown, and after a visit to its u p33

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Are you affected by dementia?

Alzheimer’s Society offers support to anyone affected by dementia – including family members, friends and carers. Whether it’s face to face, Get the support online or over the phone, you need today we are here for you. alzheimers.org.uk/ getsupport Alzheimer’s Society operates in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. Registered charity number 296645.


SHOPPING

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historic high street, located just beyond the riverside park, it’s easy to see why. The relatively small stretch of shops is bursting with designer brand stores (The White Company, Mint Velvet, Whistles), as well as individual boutiques, antiques and a rather fabulous cycle shop. One new brand making a big name for itself locally comes from a product that was ‘hatched’ in nearby Windsor. Frog Bikes are exceptionally lightweight kids’ bikes in funky designs – head to Saddle Safari on Dean Street for a demonstration. They also sell bikes for big boys and girls. Fans of Shanks’ Pony, however, should make a dash to Runners Retreat. As well as shoes and clothing, the staff will also offer advice on training, nutrition or injuries.

brewery in the Chilterns. Award-winning labels include John Hampden’s Ale, brewed in memory of ‘The Patriot’ of the Civil War, who lived nearby at Great Hampden; and Bodgers Barley Wine, a tribute to the craftsmen who lived and worked in the beechwoods of Bucks making chair legs and spindles for High Wycombe’s furniture trade. The brewery shop sells all the labels, together with a range of local foods made with the beers, or to complement their flavours. Brewery tours can be booked in advance. Also visit the Rebellion Brewery in Marlow; Aylesbury Brewhouse; Bucks Star Beer, Milton Keynes; Vale Brewery, Brill; and Malt The Brewery in Prestwood. Cheers! u p35

ETHICAL PRODUCTS Two of the newer stores to have opened in Marlow are good for your purse and good for the environment. Both Seed1 and FourState sell eco-friendly, sustainable and ethical products. And no mention of Marlow can be without its self-titled bookshop – prepare to lose hours between the pages. There’s an equally charming bookshop in nearby Cookham – The Little Bookshop. Wendover is another pleasing market town, and there’s plenty here to fill some gentle mooching time, from antiques to the leading aviation art gallery, Aces High. An excellent local-produce market appears on the third Saturday of every month. Talking of local produce, just two miles from Wendover, you’ll find The Chiltern Brewery – the oldest independent

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BROADEN YOUR HORIZONS

Destination inspiration for more than 75 UK and Ireland towns, cities and counties awaits you at the home of staycation content.

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SHOPPING

“For foodies, the best place to try and buy local fare is at one of the visiting farmers’ markets or farm shops. Seek out Booker Farm Shop, High Wycombe; Emmett’s Farm Shop, Marlow; King’s Farm Shop, Wendover and many more”

©MONKEY BUSINESS/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; PUDDINGSTONE DISTILLERY/MATTHEW BISHOP

known yet high-quality Grand Cru Champagne from some of the smaller grower-producers. If you prefer a more hands-on approach, why not visit one of the area’s vineyards, where some quite excellent and award-winning English wines and ciders are being produced. Try Daws Hill Vineyard in Radnage; CHAFOR Wine Estate in Gawcott; and Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery in Hambledon. For spirit lovers, check out the Puddingstone Distillery – home of award-winning Campfire Gin – or Griffiths Brothers Distillery, which creates award-winning cold distilled gin in Amersham. Both run gin-tasting events and tours.

For independent wine traders, Lloyd’s Wines in Great Missenden brings exciting, rare and wonderful wines from the best small producers of Europe. Often the wines have never been imported to the UK before, owing to the small quantities produced. No 2 Pound Street in Wendover is another independent wine specialist, selling classic, organic, biodynamic and quirky wines, alongside a superb British deli counter. Enjoy a tasting glass of wine, a fabulous Musetti coffee or a tasting deli platter while they put your shopping list together – shopping the old-fashioned way. For those with a taste for the finer things in life, a visit to Moore Champagne in Haddenham is just the thing. The small family business specialises in importing lesser-

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Above Pop into Puddingstone Distillery and pick up a bottle of their famous Campfire Gin to take home

FOODIE FAVOURITES For foodies, the best place to try and buy local fare is at one of the visiting farmers’ markets or farm shops. Seek out Booker Farm Shop, High Wycombe; Emmett’s Farm Shop, Marlow; King’s Farm Shop, Wendover; Orchard View Farm Shop & Cafe, Little Meadle; and Peterley Manor Farm, Prestwood. There’s lots more too – see bigbarn.co.uk for listings. Another great way of buying not only unique foods but also crafts, plants and antiques is at one of the county’s numerous fairs and festivals. There are way too many to list here, but for starters, look out for the Pub in the Park, Marlow (May); Marlow Town Regatta & Festival (June); Waddesdon Feast Festival (June); Great Missenden Food Festival (August), Oktoberfest, Milton Keynes (October); and the queen of the crop, the Bucks County Show, which contains more than 200 stalls at its impressive show in August. Staying in Buckinghamshire is an excellent choice for shoppers. Not only is there the choice of all the above – and more – you’re usually only 45 minutes from London by train. And one of the biggest and best shopping areas – Westfield – is just 30 minutes by car from South Bucks. Happy shopping!

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EATING OUT

Restaurants and cafes you just have to try! From ramen to risotto and vegan to steakhouse, every type of food lover is catered for here

uckinghamshire is a beautiful county, boasting a diverse range of restaurants to cater for every taste and budget, from pub fare to fine dining and world cuisine. So, let’s start with its excellent pubs – and what is a rambling walk in Bucks’ leafy countryside without a delicious plate of pub grub at the end? Long gone are the days when this meant a greasy burger and crisps (served outside if you were a youngster) – now you’re far more likely to find a roaring fire, a cosy snug, a warm welcome to families, and award-winning cuisine to boot! Let’s focus on some of the county’s excellent pubs with good grub.

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MEDITERRANEAN-INSPIRED FOOD Right at the top of the county, in Olney, a fairly new pub and eatery has just blossomed. The Cherry Tree – named after the town’s legendary Cherry Fair – recently underwent a £2m development, converting the elegant Grade 2-listed house from a care home to a 100-cover restaurant serving a good selection of Mediterranean-inspired food all day. Over in the picturesque town of Wavendon, The Wavendon Arms has had one hell of a makeover. Think deep jewel tones and jungle vibes and an eclectic menu of world food. Another pub to have undergone a makeover, this time in Great Linton, is The Black Horse, set alongside the beautiful Grand Union Canal. The new cosy-yet-modern setting is a pleasant place to choose from an intriguing array of dishes, as well as pub classics. There’s a good selection of gins too. The Three Trees in nearby Bletchley was recently voted the number-one pub for families at the National Pub Awards, with its hugely popular outdoor waffle bar through to afternoon teas for the older guests. The

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excellent Crown at Granborough is good for families too, with its big outdoor area for little ones to run around in, and a menu of extra-special pub classics. The Five Elms in Weedon, near Aylesbury, is consistently well reviewed. The pub serves traditional English favourites, such as John’s ‘now famous steak and kidney pudding and treacle tart’. Still in Aylesbury is The Pointer – a restaurant, bar, butchers and farm. The menu changes practically daily, using the seasonal produce and meat either grown/reared on the farm or obtained from local suppliers.

“This new cosy-yet-modern setting is a pleasant place to choose from an intriguing array of dishes, as well as pub classics. There’s a good selection of gins too” For a sophisticated evening out, book The Manor on Long Lional. This classy, elegantly decorated cocktail bar boasts an atmosphere unlike any other in Aylesbury, as well as the town’s only rooftop bar. Food in the restaurant is locally sourced from Beef Olive, with the finest produce carefully chosen to complement an extensive menu. Nearby, in Dinton, The Seven Stars pub is a big hit with the locals – so much so, they rallied together and bought it collectively in 2011, when it was threatened with closure. Since then, it has gone from strength to strength – it has had a complete overhaul and now offers a tasty selection of ‘English with a touch of French’ local produce. The u p41

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Make Everlasting Memories at The Hub, Milton Keynes The Hub is a bustling lifestyle quarter situated in the heart of Milton Keynes, which promises to offer muchneeded moments of indulgence for everybody. Foodies, social butterflies and relaxation seekers alike can take advantage of the numerous things to do all within walking distance of each other. There's no need to worry about paying for parking either, with three hours free at Sainsbury’s just a short stroll away. Once you reach The Hub, which is just off Midsummer Boulevard, visitors will be transported across the globe with the tastes of worldwide cuisines including pan-Asian, Caribbean, French, Mediterranean, Indian, and more. Alfresco dining is available at most food outlets creating a vibrant European café culture vibe. There are popular chains at The Hub including Nandos, Zizzi, Browns Brasserie, Subway, Las Iguanas, Banana Tree and Brasserie Blanc.

Banana Tree

DeRoka

The quarter is also home to many independent eateries and bars including the instagrammable Japanese-inspired, Blossom Room, which was awarded Bar of the Year at the MK Food & Leisure Awards 2020. As well as Maaya Indian Kitchen & Bar, Turkish family-run Deroka and popular Bogota Coffee, there is even a private members restaurant and club Alpha at Oscars, which is the first of its kind in the city. Each restaurant's menu caters to all. After dinner, the close-knit feel of The Hub makes it the perfect location for a night on the town with friends. Why not start at BeAtOne (MK's #1 bar on Tripadvisor), walk over to Turtle Bay, before heading for a dance at Slug & Lettuce. Or if you're seeking some R&R, then look no further. The Hub boasts a varied lifestyle aspect too - meaning that visitors can take part in a Hot Yoga class at Sweat Studios, get a new look at Headonist Hair and Beauty - the only Good Salon Guide five-star salon in MK, and enjoy a facial at the UK's leading skin clinic, Sk:n, all within a few meters of each other.


Those Thosewho whowish wishtotounwind unwindfurther furthercan canbook bookaastay stayinin one oneofofThe TheHub's Hub'sthree threehotels hotels- -Jury’s Jury’sInn, Inn,Travelodge Travelodge and andMoxy. Moxy.Moxy Moxyisisaabrand brandnew newstylish stylishboutique, boutique,dogdogfriendly friendly hotel hotel with with aa bright bright and and open open lobby lobby where where guests’ guests’ check-in check-in atat the the bar bar (first (first drink drink isis on on Moxy!) Moxy!) you’re you’resure suretotofeel feelatathome. home. There Thereisiseven evenan anestate estateagent agenton-site on-site(Thomas (ThomasConnolly), Connolly), and andaalaser lasereye eyesurgery surgerytreatment treatmentspecialist specialist(Optimax). (Optimax). The TheHub Hubhas hasititall. all.So Sowhatever whateveryou youdecide decidetotodo, do,know know that thatThe TheHub, Hub,Milton MiltonKeynes Keynesisisready readyand andwaiting waitingtoto greet greetyou. you.

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Alpha Alphaat atOscars Oscars

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Visit Visitwww.thehub-miltonkeynes.com www.thehub-miltonkeynes.comand and follow followon onFacebook, Facebook,Instagram Instagramand andTwitter Twitter @thehubmk @thehubmkfor formore moreand andup-to-date up-to-date information informationregarding regardingyour yourfavourite favourite restaurants restaurantsand andlifestyle lifestylebusinesses. businesses. The TheHub Hubisisthe theplace placeto tobe, be, to tocreate creatememories memoriesto tolast lastaalifetime. lifetime.

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Situated in the heart of Aylesbury, The Manor is Buckinghamshire’s premium restaurant, cocktail bar and rooftop establishment, the first of its kind. • Rustic and relaxed dining • Dazzling cocktail lounge • Spectacular views of the Chilterns Open Monday – Sunday T: 01296 331813 The Manor, 5 Long Lional, Aylesbury, Bucks. HP20 1QY (for car parking)

Visit www.themanoraylesbury.co.uk for bookings, menus and opening times

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EATING OUT

©ESTRADA ANTON/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

“This charming pub, built in 1831, features wonky low ceilings, a colossal open fire and a glorious garden. The menu is interesting, ranging from classics to dishes influenced by Asia and Lebanon” Five Arrows Hotel, Waddesden, is a charming and romantic place situated next to the glorious Waddesden Manor. Also look up the Dining Domes at Windmill Hill. The Saracen’s Head Inn Bar & Restaurant in Amersham is a charming old building with a traditional menu (and a ghost…). The pub, built in 1530 from old ship timbers, serves hearty food at good-value prices. Visitors rave about the Sunday lunches! Staying in Amersham, you’ll find twice-Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar’s latest restaurant, Hawkyns, at The Crown Inn – a pretty 16th-century former coaching inn. Opened in 2017, Hawkyns’ menu intertwines British and Indian flavours – there’s a tasting menu for the undecided. Over in Long Crendon, The Mole and Chicken is a charming pub, built in 1831, featuring wonky low ceilings, a colossal open fire and a glorious garden. The menu is interesting, ranging from classics to dishes influenced by Asia and Lebanon.

In Cheddington, there’s The Old Swan. This picturesque, thatched Grade 2-listed pub is about a 10-minute walk from the Grand Union Canal, so it is popular with hungry walkers. Although the menu is quite respectable, a fun nod to the workaday pub fare we all love is well represented. Not to be confused with The Old Swan in Great Missenden, an intimate 16th-century inn in the pretty little hamlet of Swan Bottom, with a pretty tree-lined beer garden. The menu, while offering pub classics, is a cut above. Another swan, this time The Swan Inn in the pretty village of Denham, certainly has curb-appeal. The Georgian wisteria-clad pub is a magnet for ‘refugees from the Big Smoke’ who bomb out on the A40. All the food is freshly made and changes in line with the seasons, and the menu includes that Holy Grail, a decent vegetarian option. SMALL PLATES A warm welcome awaits all in the family-run Chequers Inn, Wooburn Common. The 17th-century coaching inn is sited alongside The Chiltern Loop, meaning it is just as likely to be full of muddy families as wedding parties and businessmen. Its genius small plates make an ideal child’s meal, snack or simple meal, depending on one’s appetite! Just around the corner in Beaconsfield lies The Royal Standard of England, the country’s oldest freehouse, with a quaint, olde worlde interior and hearty home- u p44

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Calcutta Brasserie One of the most unusual places to eat in Buckinghamshire

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ne of the most unusual places to eat in Buckinghamshire has to be Calcutta Brasserie. Situated in a converted 17th-century chapel in the pretty coaching town of Stony Stratford, this restaurant is a hit with the locals who have voted it the best Indian in the area. The Grade 2-listed building was once known as Fegan’s Orphanage and retains its majestic domed ceiling, painted with a galaxy of stars as well as original woodwork, stone walls and dramatic architecture. The multi-award winning restaurant

opened ten years ago and diners can enjoy some of the finest curry dishes in unique historic surroundings. As you enter the restaurant, you are struck by the vast size of the space with ceilings which seem to reach the sky and the enormous frescos on the walls which give the room a real Sistine Chapel feel. Calcutta Brasserie’s head chef Saj Khan has crafted a menu with a wide range of culinary experiences from familiar dishes such as butter chicken and lamb rogan josh to authentic tastes from across India, a country

7 ST PAULS COURT, HIGH STREET, STONY STRATFORD MK11 1LJ

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with a spectacular diversity of ingredients, spices, cooking styles and traditions. So why stick with what you always order? The team delight in recommending something new based on customers’ tastes and introducing their many loyal customers to new flavours which they will enjoy. With numerous awards for quality curry on the wall, the quality of the food is second to none and Calcutta Brasserie pride themselves on preparing every single dish freshly using authentic and naturally-sourced organic and free-range ingredients.


CALCUTTA BRASSERIE | PROMOTION

“Situated in a converted 17th-century chapel in the pretty coaching town of Stony Stratford, this restaurant is a hit with the locals who have voted it the best Indian in the area” They do not use any artificial colouring and use only natural herbs and spices, many of which are imported from India. Popular dishes include murgh tikka lababdar, a favourite from the Punjab with tikka marinated chicken in a velvety smooth creamy, buttery tomato gravy and railway mutton curry which marries succulent lamb chops with a richly flavoured sauce. There are also some unusual chef’s specials such as the decadent lobster malai curry which features a whole lobster infused with coconut milk and ginger.

The extensive menu includes a large section of vegetarian and vegan choices to ensure everyone is catered for with highlights including delicious garlic-infused mushrooms, spicy-fried cauliflower florets and subtlyspiced lentil dal dishes. Each meal is prepared with love and exceptional attention to detail, served by helpful and attentive staff which is perhaps why the restaurant came out on top of a series of mystery visits by the judges of the prestigious regional food and leisure awards recently. INFO@CALCUTTABRASSERIE.CO.UK

The restaurant holds regular live music events and on Sundays there is an unlimited three-course buffet with a regularly-replenished selection of the most popular dishes at an affordable price. So if you’re in the neighbourhood, pay a visit to Stony Stratford and experience this unique Indian experience for yourself. Calcutta Brasserie is open seven-days-aweek and tables can be pre-booked by calling 01908 566577. For more information, visit the website calcuttabrasserie.co.uk.

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cooked food. Other pubs with good grub worth a mention include The Polecat Inn, Great Missenden; The Birch, Milton Keynes; Grouse & Ale, High Wycombe; The Crooked Billet, Newton Longville; The Royal Oak, Bovingdon Green; The King’s Head, Ivinghoe; and The White Horse, Hedgerley. A major player in the gastropub armoury has been Tom Kerridge’s The Coach in Marlow. Kerridge took on the site in 2014 and has already turned it into one of the country’s top eating destinations, serving up a menu of small tapas-style dishes – it recently placed number nine in the Top 50 Gastropubs of 2021 and was awarded a Michelin star in 2017. The Coach operates a strict no-reservations policy. RUSTIC EATERY Kerridge has also recently opened The Butcher’s Tap and Grill in Marlow, which is a butchers and pub during the day, before turning into a pub serving a small selection of food in the evening. But his flagship is The Hand and Flowers in Marlow, for which you need to book months in advance. What was once a run-down local pub is now a comfortingly rustic eatery, with IPA on tap and ‘fine-dining-comfortfood’. It is the first pub in the UK to have been awarded

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two stars in the Michelin Guide. It is also the proud holder of four AA rosettes and is number seven on the Top 50 Gastropubs of 2021. His dishes range from the familiar to the more adventurous, such as ‘Essex lamb ‘bun’ with sweetbreads and salsa verde’. Other eateries to get a Michelin mention include The Hundred Of Ashendon, which won its Bib Gourmand in 2015 in recognition of the excellent cooking and reasonable prices. The Three Oaks in Gerrards Cross received a Bib Gourmand in 2014. It has a sister ‘Oak’ in Cookham called The White Oak, and a new little sister in Beaconsfield called No.5, which also gets a Michelin mention. Other eateries to get a mention in 2021 include Roux at Skindles, Taplow; The Old Queens Head, Penn; Sindhu, Marlow; The Mash Inn, Radnage; The Mole and Chicken, Long Crendon; and The Pilgrim Pub, North Marsden. It’s worth noting that Michelin-starred restaurants can be found in nearby Berkshire. In Bray, you’ll find not only Michel Roux’s famous The Waterside Inn, but also Heston Blumenthal’s triple: The Fat Duck, The Crown and The Hind’s Head. The White Oak can be found in Maidenhead, and, although it lost its star, Paris House, set in the glorious deer park of Woburn Park, is still truly excellent. Olivier’s Restaurant at The


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“This discreet dining room features sociably round tables with highbacked chairs to give a sense of privacy and spaciousness. Food is local, daily sourced produce cooked in the modern British style” Woburn Hotel offers a stylish and relaxed setting to enjoy the very best of English and continental dining, and is conveniently located close to Milton Keynes. Fine dining can be found all over Bucks, however, and none more so than in Marlow. One of its more recent restaurants is part of a rather swanky chain. London’s famous Ivy has migrated to Marlow and is already a firm favourite with diners – its shepherd’s pie being a stand-out dish. Also popular is Sindhu at the Macdonald Compleat Angler hotel. Opened in 2014 by Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar, Sindhu offers ‘the very best of traditional Indian cuisine in a contemporary manner’. Cooking is subtle, with variations on the familiar – its grilled meats are the biggest draw.

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MODERN BRITISH COOKING Along the road, you’ll find another gem, The Vanilla Pod. The discreet dining room – once home to poet T.S. Elliot – features sociably round tables with high-backed chairs to give a sense of privacy and spaciousness. Food is local, daily sourced produce cooked in the modern British style. An eight-course gourmand menu is available. The final big hitter in Marlow’s canon is The Oak Room at Danesfield House. In the romantic light-panelled dining room, you can sink into your large, comfortable armchair and enjoy the chef’s delicious take on classic French cuisine.

Moving along the county, but only slightly, to Old Amersham, you’ll find a restaurant never lacking in the ‘wow factor’ – Artichoke. The superb modern European cuisine and calming atmosphere have been responsible for Artichoke winning a host of accolades, including its first Michelin star, being named AA Restaurant of the Year 2013-2014, and most recently placing 48th in the Top 50 UK Restaurants Good Food Guide 2020. Excellent fine dining can be found at The Mash Inn, Radnage, voted Restaurant of the Year 2019 in The Good Food Guide. This grown-up pub dishes up a daily four-course menu or ten-course taster, where ‘pretty much everything is exposed to naked flames or burning charcoal’. The Greyhound Pub in Beaconsfield has got local tails wagging. The 18th-century pub has been taken over and refurbished by Daniel Crump and Margriet VandezandeCrump, who have worked together in some of the best fine-dining restaurants in the country and have brought their beautiful food to the pub. Coming soon in Beaconsfield is Tarrus – upmarket tapas and cocktails. Delicious food in exquisite surroundings can be found elsewhere at Hartwell House, Aylesbury; The Cliveden Dining Room, Gilbey’s, Old Amersham; La Chouette, Great Missenden; Glaze at the Crowne Plaza, Marlow; The Angel, Long Crendon; or new hotel, The Langley in Iver. u p48

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THE TASTIEST STEAK IN BUCKINGHAMSHIRE! We believe our customers should expect the highest quality produce delivered to their plate by skilled artisans. All our steak cuts are amongst the very best available. Painstakingly sourced from the highest quality Belted Galloway and other select native breeds. Supplied exclusively to us by third generation breeder and butchers the Tompkins family farm in Brill, their animal husbandry is of the very highest standards. We are proud of the relationships we have developed with local farmers and producers. We believe using local produce where possible is the only way. We are delighted to welcome you and hope that your visit to us is a memorable one. Pre Fixe & Theatre Menu TWO courses with a glass of house wine for just £19.95 Available 4pm-6.30pm, Sunday-Thursday The Exchange, Aylesbury HP20 1UR T. 01296 393 217

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Chef Proprietor


“We’d need a whole new book to list the fantastic world cuisines on offer in the county. For starters, why not try some of the county’s most-talkedabout Indian restaurants?” For a truly unique dining experience, try Nomadic Dinners in Chalfont St Giles, where guests forage for wild ingredients, then dine in a woodland glade around a large table while their meal is cooked on an open fire. Likewise, Feast over Flame pops up at venues around Marlow and offers five courses, partly finished on your very own table-top egg barbecue. INDIAN RESTAURANTS We’d need a whole new book to list the fantastic world cuisines on offer in the county. For starters, try some of the county’s most-talked-about Indian restaurants. Heston Blumenthal is famously fond of the fabulous Maliks in Cookham (also Marlow and Gerrards Cross). Upmarket yet cosy, it takes Indian cuisine to the next level with carefully considered presentation. Try a speciality from the tandoor oven – spiced monkfish perhaps, or the ultra-tender Sikandari lamb that’s marinated for 48 hours. Spice Merchant can also be found in Cookham, and also

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in Old Beaconsfield and nearby Henley. It is another contemporary Indian restaurant – aim to sit in the pleasant conservatory. Milton Keynes is home to a host of quality Indian establishments. Look out for Ganges Lounge, The Grange and Jaflong. Princes Risborough boasts two outstanding Indians – Coco Tamarind and Olive. Also try Bombay Palace in High Wycombe or Moza Indian Restaurant in Newport Pagnell. Moving on to Jamaica – ok, Milton Keynes – Blue Mountain Yard offers authentic Jamaican food, which has people coming back again and again. In proper Bucks style, one reviewer called it: “Amazing scrumdiddlyumptious Caribbean food”. For Thai food, try the bling-tastic Crazy Bear in Beaconsfield. Worth it for the sparkling bar, garden, crystal-studded leather areas and the unique loo set-up. Or head up the hill to Amersham to find Tom Yum. Pin Petch in Newport Pagnell has some EPIC sharing platters, with a good vegan and vegetarian offering. Koyo Sushi in Amersham is a new Japanese tapasu bar which, in its words, ‘attracts hipsters and families’. More sushi, this time in Milton Keynes, can be found at Japanese/Korean fusion place, Akasaka. Aylesbury has seen lots of new restaurant openings recently – among them a Japanese place, MIYA; a Turkish bar and grill, Kuzzu; and a vegan restaurant, Buddha Bowl,


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known for its guilt-free kebabs, vegan wings and Thai red curry. There’s also Rococo Lounge – check out the mural behind the bar in honour of Ziggy Stardust, first seen in Aylesbury in 1972. Canaletto is a very decent, very well-reviewed Italian restaurant in Kingswood, near Aylesbury. Likewise, Di Paolo in Gerrards Cross, a family-run restaurant, is said to ‘rival the very best eateries in London’. Zaza, Amersham, is another great-value Italian – check out the awesome indoor olive trees! Pizza fans should head to Fan Fan Pizza in Great Missenden, or Marlow’s eagerly awaited Lieviti with its pizza, pasta and late-night ‘cicchetti’ – an Italian version of tapas/small-plate dishes. TURKISH CUISINE If Turkish food is more your palate, Misya Meze and Grill has just opened in Marlow, and just up the road in Bourne End is Chanak. Anatolia is another great Turkish restaurant further north in Stony Stratford, as is DeRoka in Milton Keynes and Black Pepper, Buckingham. For a modern take on Spanish tapas, try Lata Lata in High Wycombe, new to the area and pulling in some great feedback, as is Pluma in Old Amersham and Corazón del Río, situated overlooking the Thames in Bourne End. If it’s Scandi food you’re after, head to rebranded NORSK in Haddenham. For French classics, make for Stony Stratford’s

prettiest restaurant, French Affaire, or even Raymond Blanc’s mini-me Brasserie Blanc in Milton Keynes or Beaconsfield. Dishes are unfussy brasserie fare. Whether you want brunch, breakfast or just coffee and a pastry, you really are spoilt for choice. In almost every town and village, you’ll find an independent cafe or deli. For starters, try Bokkie Deli at Duck Farm Court, Aylesbury; Coffee on the Green, Stokenchurch; The Grocer, Amersham and Gerrards Cross; The Pantry in Prestwood; The Beeches Eco Cafe, Burnham Beeches; Wild Strawberry Cafe at Peterley Manor Farm in Great Missenden; Fego in Marlow, Beaconsfield and Gerrards Cross; The Whisk Kitchen & Bar in Woburn Sands; Satollo deli in Marlow; and cyclist mecca, Musette Cafe in Aldbury. Special mention to chocolaterie extraordinaire Rumsey’s in Wendover for amazing cakes, pastries, drinks and home-made ice cream. Finally, no guide to food in Bucks is complete without the staple: the afternoon tea. There are many places to partake of this peculiarly English custom, from the swanky to the budget friendly. For starters, try the Manor Restaurant, Waddesdon Manor; Cliveden House, Taplow; Missenden Abbey, Great Missenden; Villiers Hotel, Buckingham; Hartwell House and Spa, Aylesbury; The Langley, Iver; or try a bit of everything at the charming Teapot Tea Shop in Cookham. Bon appétit!

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ARTS & CULTURE

A hub of culture and creativity This region is full of inspiring arts and culture and overflowing with festivals and exhibitions for you to discover, whatever time of year you visit

isheye Film Festival may be based in High Wycombe, but it has an international audience, and now in its sixth year, it’s not letting Covid slow it down. The spring festival, focusing on the international film and shorts competition, is taking place virtually between 23 April and 3 May, and there will also be an autumn event, where hopefully people will once again be able to get together and mingle.

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INSPIRATIONAL SETTING It’s well known that Buckinghamshire is as pretty as a picture, so it’s no surprise that it has inspired a host of artists, poets, writers, filmmakers and craftsmen. It is here that Roald Dahl and Enid Blyton created some of the most memorable characters from children’s literature; Jerome K Jerome wrote Three Men in a Boat; and poet Thomas Gray wrote “Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard”, so taken was he with the countryside surrounding Stoke Poges.

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Top Peek inside the Temple of Ancient Virtue at Stowe Landscape Gardens; Above Bust of Queen Elizabeth I in the gardens at Stowe; Opposite page Waddesdon Manor

The countryside itself has been the backdrop to many films and television shows, from Bond to Bridget Jones, Inspector Morse to Star Wars. In fact, Buckinghamshire is the most-filmed county in the UK, and is home to the iconic Pinewood Studios, which has welcomed A-listers and the filmmaking elite since it became a film studio in 1935. It is here (in and around Aylesbury) that the hugely successful television series Midsomer Murders is shot (stabbed, drowned, poisoned and bludgeoned). Fans of the show from far-flung corners of the globe now make Midsomer Murders pilgrimages – download the Midsomer Murders Trail if you would like to do the same. Visitors to the village of Turville, overlooked by Turville windmill, will be forgiven for thinking they’ve travelled back in time. The picturesque village and windmill were used in the film Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, and the church of St Mary the Virgin is the well-known setting for television classic comedy, The Vicar of Dibley. u p52

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“Castle Fine Art and Whitewall Galleries are situated in Milton Keynes, as well as MK Gallery, a contemporary gallery offering free exhibitions of international touring exhibits, libraries and workshops – it also has a big screen for movies” The countryside has also inspired some great artists, including one of the greatest painters of the 20th century, Sir Stanley Spencer. The local landscape and residents formed the subjects of some of his most wonderful works, which can be seen in the Stanley Spencer Gallery, on Cookham High Street, just over the Bucks/Berks border. Spencer lived and worked in Cookham most of his life, and this gallery, while intimate, holds the largest collection of his paintings on display anywhere in the world. Among the wonderful works in a changing exhibition are loans from fine art galleries, as well as from private collectors. There is video of the artist too, and trails for excitable children to follow. Spencer died in 1959 (the gallery opened three years later), and his gravestone can be visited at Holy Trinity Churchyard in Cookham.

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Of course, the various National Trust properties are a veritable treasure trove of antique and contemporary art – inside and out. Stowe Landscape Garden, for example, is an extraordinary living, breathing work of art, with resplendent ornamental lakes, glorious open spaces, wooded valleys and more than 40 monument temples. Claydon House near Middle Claydon is an extravaganza of rococo architecture in its highest form. A particular high is the Chinese room, where the rococo continues, but this time as chinoiserie – essentially a Chinese version of the rococo decorative style. The entire room is a fantasy of carved pagodas, Chinese fretwork, bells and temples. Outside is a courtyard, which is a hub for eclectic events, arts and crafts. INTERNATIONALLY FAMOUS COLLECTION Waddesdon Manor in Aylesbury is a must, housing an internationally famous collection. Its owners, the Rothschilds, were among the greatest collectors of the 19th century. The collection contains more than 15,000 works and is especially known for its 17th and 18thcentury French decorative collection, displayed in the magnificent interiors created in the late 1800s by Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild. Highlights include Sèvres porcelain, Savonnerie carpets, tapestries from the royal


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Gobelins and Beauvais workshops, and 17th and 18thcentury paintings by famous Dutch, Flemish and French artists. Baron Ferdinand also prized 18th-century British portraits by Reynolds, Gainsborough and Romney. New acquisitions and loans continue to be added; some of which are displayed around the manor and in its gardens, while the majority of works can be seen at Windmill Hill, the archive centre. Also in Aylesbury is a new development, The Exchange – look out for three new thought-provoking sculptures by artist Colin Spofforth, with a series of inspiring quotes sourced from the local community, that are woven into the street furniture and tree grilles. ART GALLERIES For collectors of art, there are galleries dotted all around the county, showcasing the talents of various artists. Of note is the Aces High Aviation Gallery in Wendover, which is the world’s leading specialist in autographed aviation and military art from leading military artists. The gallery regularly invites World War II veterans to meet collectors and autograph work. Also in Wendover is the charming A Little Bird Told Me gallery, which stocks limited-edition prints by Quentin Blake, illustrator of the world-famous

Opposite page MK Gallery, Milton Keynes Above clockwise from top left The Gothic Room at Claydon House; Stanley Spencer Gallery in Cookham on the Buckinghamshire/ Berkshire border; The Pebble Alcove is one of many must-sees at Stowe Landscape Garden

Roald Dahl stories; Anita Jeram (Guess How Much I Love You); and Dick Bruna, the creator of Miffy; among others, as well as interesting jewellery, books, cards and gifts. Three miles from Wendover, you’ll find Obsidian Art, one of the largest galleries in Bucks. The gallery exhibits a broad range of paintings, prints, sculpture, glass, ceramics, jewellery, photography and crafts by some of the best British artists and makers. Castle Fine Art and Whitewall Galleries are situated in Milton Keynes, as well as MK Gallery, a contemporary gallery offering free exhibitions of international touring exhibits, libraries and workshops – it also has a big screen for movies. Here, you can pick up The Milton Keynes Arts Guide, which includes a walking tour of the public artworks within the city, including the recently built tribute to Olympic long jumper and local, Greg Rutherford. The tour is really worth taking, as Milton Keynes has one of the largest public collections of art in the country, with works by artists and influential sculptors, such as Dame Elisabeth Frink, Michael Sandle, Dhruva Mistry and Peter Freeman. One of the biggest arts events of the year takes place in the summer, pandemics allowing, when Bucks hosts its own Open Studios event. For 16 days in June, u p54

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art lovers can see artists at work in their own homes or studios, buy completed works and meet fellow enthusiasts en route. Other arts festivals of note include the Wycombe Festival (April-June), WhizzFizz Fest (kids’ literary festival in June), Wooburn Festival (SeptemberOctober), Milton Keynes International Festival (every two years in July), Amersham Festival of Music (April) and Buckingham Summer Festival (July). ROALD DAHL As well as great artists, Bucks has also been – and still is – home to a number of writers and poets. Close to everyone who was ever a child’s heart is Roald Dahl. His life is celebrated in The Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre in Dahl’s home village, Great Missenden. He is also present at the Bucks County Museum, Aylesbury, which houses the Roald Dahl Children’s Gallery. Both are gloriumptious, phizz-whizzing and whoopsy-whiffling. True Dahlers can download and follow the Roald Dahl Trail, or visit his grave (signposted by BFG footprints) in Great Missenden. Another much-loved children’s author, Enid Blyton, lived in Old Thatch, Bourne End, and it is here where one of her best-loved characters, Brer Rabbit, was created in 1934. It is also said that nearby Bekonscot Model Village in Beaconsfield is where Blyton drew her inspiration for Noddy in Toyland. The literary connection continues in Marlow, once the home of the poet Percy Shelley and his wife Mary Shelley, author of Frankenstein. Later, author Jerome K Jerome (Three Men in a Boat) and poet TS Eliot (The Hollow Men) also called Marlow home.

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Above Workshop at Queens Park Arts Centre, Aylesbury; Below Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre, Great Missenden; Opposite page Waterside Theatre, Aylesbury

Chalfont St Giles, the parish church at Stoke Poges, is said to have inspired Thomas Gray’s “Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard”, and the poet himself is buried there. St Giles was also home to poet John Milton (Paradise Lost), who spent time here during the Great Plague (1665) to escape possible infection. Learn all about poet and hymnodist William Cowper at his former house in Olney, now the Cowper & Newton Museum. Here, he used to meet his neighbour, the preacher and former slave trader John Newton, author of the hymn “Amazing Grace”. Lark Rise to Candleford fans should visit the Flora Thompson exhibition at Buckingham Old Gaol Museum, the only permanent audio-visual exhibition of the life and works of writer Flora Thompson in the world. If you prefer your art to move about, the county is well served by theatres. In the north, there’s the Milton Keynes Theatre; in the south, there’s High Wycombe’s The Swan. Both provide an eclectic mix of productions throughout the year, from dance to drama, music to comedy. In Aylesbury sits the Waterside Theatre, which similarly offers a dynamic and diverse range of performances. If you’re looking for a creative hub, Queens Park Arts Centre offers hundreds of workshops and courses in visual and performing arts, plus exhibitions, events and theatre performances. Over in Chesham is the smaller Elgiva


ARTS & CULTURE

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“In Aylesbury the Waterside Theatre offers a dynamic and diverse range of performances, but if you’re looking for a creative hub, Queens Park Arts Centre offers hundreds of workshops and courses in visual and performing arts, plus exhibitions, events and theatre” Theatre, which puts on a wide-ranging programme of professional and amateur productions. The theatre also has a digital cinema. For live music, try The Stables in Milton Keynes, a premier live music venue for jazz, blues, folk, rock, classical, pop and world music. Or why not hop on a train for the superstar acts. Wembley Stadium is only around 45 minutes away. For a bit of musical history, look up Friars Aylesbury, a music club with 90,000 members. Opened in 1969 (but closed down twice), Friars put on legendary concerts from the likes of David Bowie, Fleetwood Mac and The Jam. You can now see sporadic gigs, such as OMD, Public Service Broadcasting and The Flaming Lips, organised by Friars at the Waterside Theatre. You can also find a statue of David

Bowie in Aylesbury’s Market Square. The bronze sculpture, called Earthly Messenger, was unveiled in March 2018 in the town where he debuted Ziggy Stardust. The summer is the time to be here for live music, when the county is home to a raft of popular music festivals. Growing every year is PennFest, which takes place in July. Recent acts have included Craig David and Suede. FESTIVAL FEVER Over in Cookham in May is Let’s Rock the Moor, a family-friendly, 1980’s festival whose acts have included UB40, Nick Heywood and Level 42. The 1980s is also the theme at the Rewind Festival over in Henley in August, and also for Chilfest in Tring in July. In August, 90’s bands, such as Stereo MCs, make up Buryfields in Chesham. For something totally marvellous, head for the renowned Garsington Opera at Wormsley for its summer season of opera productions in the grounds of a stately home. Bring a rug and a picnic. Look out also for a production at the Fingest Great Barn Opera, or enjoy a lecture-recitals at the Opera Prelude in Fawley, which works to give young singers a start. It’s also worth checking the listings of some of the county’s stately homes, Stowe House in particular, which regularly play host to music and theatrical productions throughout the warmer months.

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When night falls… The nightlife in Buckinghamshire is thriving, packed with clubs, pubs and live music venues

here are plenty of glasses ready to be raised at some of Bucks’ charming pubs, a number of which are serving food that would put top chefs to shame, as well as bars, nightclubs, theatres and cinemas, most of which can be found in the larger towns – Milton Keynes, High Wycombe and Aylesbury. There are too many to mention in this guide, but starting in the south of the county, here are some of the best: Pretty riverside Marlow is a treasure trove of traditional pubs, souped-up gastrobars and swish cocktail lounges. One of the best-loved bars to have embedded itself into the High Street is The Botanist, a modern-meets-Victorian

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space offering botanical cocktails, craft beers and ales, along with deli and rotisserie-inspired food and live music. For a boogie, try Duke of Clarence, a contemporary venue offering reasonably priced cocktails and fabulous burgers. A real draw is the decked garden area – there’s even a shuffleboard, perfect for some competitive socialising! Alternatively, jump on board The Ship – Marlow’s oldest pub, established in 1580 – a cosy pub with a fab little dancefloor. Generally serving a younger crowd (although not exclusively) is Claytons, which features regular DJ nights, live music, film nights and a monthly quiz. For a traditional pub, you could take your chances in

Opposite page Enjoy a pint or two of the locally brewed Rebellion IPA


AFTER DARK

“If you’re drinking in or nearby Marlow, chances are you’ll be supping the local beer, Rebellion. The local brewery produces around 70,000 excellent pints per week, and runs tours from 7 ‘til 9.30pm on the first Tuesday of every month”

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Tom Kerridge’s hugely popular but not bookable The Coach, which of course has an amazing menu, or sup and enjoy a pork pie at his latest offering, The Butchers Tap and Grill. For a decent pint, try The Two Brewers on St Peter Street, a historic old English pub known for its good food, with beers from Brakspears, Fullers and Rebellion, and more than 20 wines by the glass. ‘Proper beer’, quality food and music is the promise of Crafty Taproom, which opened in 2019. The cool venue also stocks a selection of wines and locally produced gins, including Marlow Gin and Cross Stream, both made in town. For a similar vibe, head to Keg Craft Beer in nearby Bourne End. WATCH SPORTS For sports and pub grub, try The Old Brewery, which shows all the latest action on three large TVs, one huge projector screen and four smaller TVs with their own little booths. Or for a family-friendly atmosphere, call in at the Marlow Donkey, a short walk from the High Street (meaning fewer tourists). If you’re drinking in or nearby Marlow, chances are you’ll be supping the local beer, Rebellion. The local brewery produces around 70,000 excellent pints per week, and runs tours from 7 ‘til 9.30pm on the first Tuesday of every month. Moving along to nearby Cookham, there are some really characterful pubs to try. Most are more restaurant than pub, but are a very pleasant way to spend the evening nonetheless. Visit The Kings Arms, Bel and The Dragon, and The Crown. The Ferry near to Cookham Bridge is a pleasing way to spend a summer’s evening, set right next to the River Thames – you can raft up on paddle board or kayak. Further down the river, in nearby u p58

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“Set just off the Thames, this pub is a charming place to stop for a cooling outdoor drink and a tasty lunch before a bracing river walk, or for cosying up by the fire on cooler evenings” Maidenhead, is The Boathouse at Boulters Lock. Heading down the river in the other direction, in Bourne End, you’ll find the excellent Bounty. It’s a gloriously scruffy pub with an array of geegaws hanging from the walls. Its large beer garden and new outdoor bar is right on the river, allowing for yacht (or kayak) envy. Between Marlow and Bourne End, you’ll find The Spade Oak, which, set just off the Thames, is a charming place to stop for a cooling outdoor drink and a tasty lunch before a bracing river walk, or for cosying up by the fire on cooler evenings. Look out for Enid Blyton’s cottage down the lane. Over in Beaconsfield, there truly is a mix of old and new. Most bars are situated in the Old Town and are generally pretty busy all year round. The Royal Saracens Head is a

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lively place for groups to meet up, and serves decent food. The nearby Swan has got the older-pub vibe, but attracts a mixed crowd, and regularly features live music. Recently opened is The White Horse, an attractive space stocking a good range of drinks, and boasting a pretty outdoor area. But for something a bit special, try The Crazy Bear. It’s not cheap, but worth it to see the amazing decor and unusual loo set-up. BRITAIN’S OLDEST FREEHOUSE Totally different again is The Royal Standard of England in Forty Green. Accessed down a windy country lane, it is Britain’s oldest freehouse, and it’s easy to imagine yourself here hundreds of years ago. Another oldie but goodie with a great menu is The Three Horseshoes in nearby Seer Green. Clubbers can twirl the night away at Revolution nightclub in the New Town (there’s also one in Milton Keynes), but beware; it does attract a young crowd. For a more relaxing experience, visit the boutique-style Everyman cinema in Gerrards Cross. A cut above your average multiplex, its swanky bar and squashy armchair seats take you right back to Hollywood-era glamour. Treat


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“There are plenty of pubs and bars in High Wycombe, from traditional inn to trendy tap room. One of these is the well-reviewed Mad Squirrel Tap and Bottle Shop”

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yourself to drinks and food delivered direct to your table while enjoying a movie. Not showing what you want to see? Then there’s plenty of choice in nearby High Wycombe. There’s the out-oftown Empire and also the Cineworld Cinema in the heart of the town centre. The cinema is handily located next to a bowling alley and choice of familiar eateries, including Pizza Express, Nandos and Wagamama. There are plenty of pubs and bars in High Wycombe, from traditional inn to trendy tap room. One of these is the well-reviewed Mad Squirrel Tap and Bottle Shop (which also has branches in Amersham and Chesham). The actual brewery is in nearby Berkhamsted (tours available). Another tap room, Heidrun, is conveniently situated next to the town’s theatre, the Wycombe Swan. As well as cocktails and food, Heidrun offers 20 beers on tap. New for September 2021 is The Wheatsheaf Inn, a four-floor cocktail bar and pub on the High Street. For other decent pubs in the South Bucks area, check out The Lazy Pig in the Pantry, Chesham; The Polecat Inn, Prestwood (now with outdoor ‘Oakpods’); Nags Head Inn, Great Missenden, a 15th-century coaching house, now with outdoor tipi; The Falcon Inn, Denham Village, a 16th-century pub in an idyllic location; and The Old Queens Head, Penn, a popular pub with a charming informal atmosphere. High Wycombe is also home to The Swan theatre, bringing in an eclectic mix of productions throughout the

Below left Catch a touring show at Aylesbury Waterside Theatre

year, from dance to drama, musicals to local productions. Good for a laugh is Hell Fire Comedy Club, which showcases new talent. Theatre fans should also see what’s on at Aylesbury Waterside Theatre. Over in Chesham is the smaller Elgiva Theatre, which puts on a wide-ranging programme of professional and amateur productions (Michael McIntyre has tried out his new material here). The theatre also has a digital cinema. QUIRKY VENUES A Chesham wildcard is The Drawingroom music venue, cafe and restaurant. It’s arty, quirky and unexpected – one reviewer describes it as ‘a little bit of Glastonbury spirit’. Stop in for breakfast, coffee or tapas-style food and see one of the regular music acts. It’s quite a special place. Wild Kite Taproom and Bottleshop is a cool, modern space in Great Missenden stocking ever-changing craft beers, local gins and more. Take-outs are available too. Also in Great Missenden is the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it favourite of walkers in the Chilterns, The Hampden Arms. This brings us close to Aylesbury, one of the county’s larger towns, where you’ll find more than 60 bars, u p60

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Enjoy a night of poker at The Casino MK in Milton Keynes

restaurants and cafes. New to the scene is Craftyard on Walton Street (another branch in Tring). The relaxed venue offers a fun tasting experience of craft beer and gin – with rotating kegs every week and up to 100 flavoured gins to try (hic!). Check for opening times. New for 2021 and situated just outside Aylesbury is The Stag at Mentmore, which has been bought by the community and has undergone an extensive refurbishment. COCKTAIL LOUNGE Also new, this time in Princes Risborough, is The Manor Coach House, a three-storey fun palace with restaurant on the ground floor, cocktail lounge on the second, and rooftop terrace. There’s already a sister branch in Aylesbury. Of note nearby are The Five Bells, Western Turville; The King’s Head in Aylesbury; and The Betsey Wynne in Swanbourne. For nightclubs around Aylesbury, you’ve got Fever & Cirque and Kudos or the, ahem, gentlemen’s club, Mirage. If it’s performing arts you’re looking for, there’s obviously the Waterside Theatre, mentioned earlier; and also, for more intimate performances, Queens Park Arts Centre’s Limelight Theatre offers an eclectic programme of live music, theatre and comedy. Still in Aylesbury is the top-notch The Hundred of Ashendon, a rural 17th-century pub, which combines a relaxed locals’ bar and a dedicated restaurant area with award-winning food.

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AFTER DARK

“The atmosphere of Milton Keynes as a whole is vibrant and exciting, and none more so than at the Xscape complex, which, as well as offering thrilling sports, such as snowboarding, skiing and skydiving, also contains three additional bars playing to different music tastes”

restaurants and bars set right in the centre. For great beer, check out BrewDog. The Theatre District has an eclectic mix of clubs, bars and restaurants, and if you love live comedy, then check out The Comedy Cow, with various dates and venues. Past acts have included Russel Kane, Kathrine Ryan and Romesh Ranganathan. And finally, if nineties’ cheese and noughties’ nostalgia is more your thing, head to Popworld for a guaranteed good time!

Of similar ilk is The Pointer in Brill, which has won numerous awards, including Michelin Pub of the Year 2018. There are now rooms where you can stay over. And so, to the north. As one of the principal towns of Bucks, Milton Keynes has more than 300 bars, pubs and clubs. The atmosphere of the town as a whole is vibrant and exciting, and none more so than at the Xscape complex, which, as well as offering thrilling sports, such as snowboarding, skiing and skydiving, also contains three additional bars playing to different music tastes. Here, you’ll also find The Casino MK, the largest casino outside London, offering over 100 slot machines, a 150-seat poker room, 20 live gaming tables, a restaurant and Tanzibar – a sports bar where fans can enjoy live action on a massive 190” media wall. The Hub is another vibrant area with a mix of

PUB GARDENS A final note on pub gardens. With the pandemic, many pubs have invested heavily in their outside spaces, with cosy pods and patio heaters, meaning you can sit outside summer or winter, day or night. There are hundreds of stunning gardens to choose from, but try The Royal Oak in Bovingdon Green for starters, which has been refurbished with a new heated terrace and a fabulous 30-cover tepee. For amazing views with your G&T, also check out: The Black Boy in Oving; The Three Oaks in Gerrards Cross; The Dumb Bell, Gerrards Cross; The Navigation Inn, Cosgrove on Grand Union Canal; The Broad Leys Aylesbury; The Eagle, Amersham; The Swan Inn, Denham; The Nags Head, Great Missenden; The Crown, Granborough; and The Stag & Huntsman, Hambleden. Cheers!

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Things you shouldn’t miss… Make sure you don’t leave here without checking out these must-see attractions

GET WALKING Buckinghamshire is a walker’s paradise with 2,500 miles of public rights of way, National Trails and acres of the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty to explore by foot or bike.

VISIT A NATIONAL TRUST PROPERTY Bucks contains the most National Trust properties in the country, so enjoy heritage treasures and glorious gardens at Stowe, Waddesdon Manor, Claydon (below), Hughenden, Ascott House and Cliveden (right). Many of the National Trust’s properties house excellent restaurants and cafes, so why not drop in for lunch?

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THINGS TO DO

STEP BACK IN TIME Journey to the glorious age of steam and ride a steam-hauled passenger engine across the beautiful rolling countryside on the Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway. Or travel through 2,000 years of history at the Chiltern Open Air Museum, Chalfont St Giles. See one of the famous Enigma machines and unearth the secrets of strategic deception, codebreaking and evacuee stories at Bletchley Park, Milton Keynes (pictured).

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TOUR A BREWERY Real ales are enjoying a revival right now, so sup up at The Chiltern Brewery, the oldest independent brewery in Buckinghamshire at the site of a wonderful brewery shop. Alternatively, the equally entertaining Rebellion Brewery in Marlow hosts open nights on the first Tuesday of every month where visitors can taste its wares and enjoy talks.

GET YOUR HEART RACING Thrillseekers can push their driving skills to the limit at the Silverstone circuit in the north of the county, or enjoy an adrenalinefuelled tree-top or segway adventure at Go Ape! in Wendover Woods (pictured) or Black Park. For the ultimate thrill, ski or skydive at Xscape in Milton Keynes.

RELAX Have a spa day at Stoke Park in Stoke Poges or Danesfield House Hotel in Marlow, or relax with a cream tea at Hartwell House, Aylesbury. Or why not sample one of the many traditional pubs and inns tucked away across the county? WALK IN THE BFG’S BIG FOOTSTEPS Buckinghamshire was famously home to one of our quirkiest and best-loved children’s authors, Roald Dahl. His wonderful works are celebrated in the brilliant Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre, Great Missenden (pictured) and also at the Bucks County Museum & Roald Dahl’s Children’s Gallery in Aylesbury.

GET CLOSER TO NATURE Meet the animals at Tiggywinkles Wildlife Hospital in Aylesbury, enjoy indoor play, tractor rides and farm animals at Odds Farm in Wooburn Common, or head to the county’s latest attraction – The Green Dragon Rare Breeds Farm and Eco Centre in Alyesbury Vale.

Also worth a look…

TRY ROWING Spend a day by, or even on, the River Thames and then head to the River & Rowing Museum in nearby Henley-onThames to explore the magical story of The Wind in the Willows. For kids’ adventure activities in boats and canoes, visit Longridge Activity Centre in Marlow.

TAKE IN A SHOW For an array of comedy, drama, music and opera visit Milton Keynes Theatre, Aylesbury’s Waterside Theatre or the Wycombe Swan in High Wycombe. For more intimate shows, Queens Park Arts Centre in Aylesbury or The Elgiva in Chesham are ideal.

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Get out and get active! There are plenty of opportunities to participate in sport here – but those who prefer to watch are well-catered for too

ailing or skiing, swimming or swinging a golf club, wherever your passion for sport lies, you’ll find what you’re looking for in Buckinghamshire. Cast your eyes back to 2012 when the eyes of the world were on London for the Olympics. A proportion of that attention came to Dorney Lake, where 30,000 spectators visited daily to see Team GB bag 12 medals – six gold, two silver and four bronze. Today the lake is a world-class rowing and kayak training and competition facility, but the site also hosts open water swimming clubs, dragon boat racing, triathlons and more. The 5km round route makes it ideal for running, walking or cycling round – or even roller skiing!

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Another Olympic legacy is Stoke Mandeville Stadium – the national centre for disability sport. The stadium developed out of the Stoke Mandeville Games – the forerunner of the Paralympic Games – and now boast the highest-grade facilities for leading sportsmen and women. EQUESTRIAN SPORTS If you’re a horse lover, trot along to one of the county’s many riding schools. Addington Equestrian Centre is one of the country’s best venues, catering for all levels of competitors and was a training venue for London 2012. For a different equestrian experience, place your bets at Towcester Racecourse, just a short canter over


SPORT & LEISURE

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the border in Northamptonshire. Alternatively, Ascot and Royal Windsor racecourses are a quick click of the hooves away in Berkshire. Not extreme enough? Why not look to the skies and try a treetop zip wire adventure at Go Ape Black Park or Wendover Woods? Or look to the skis, this time at the Xscape entertainment complex in Milton Keynes. Here you can enjoy high-energy fun including indoor skiing and snowboarding, rock climbing and indoor sky diving. SILVERSTONE CIRCUIT Go up a gear at the Silverstone circuit in the north of the county. Watch one of the many national and international motorsport events or get behind the wheel yourself. Take binoculars and a portable radio for keeping up with all the action – pit stops, tyre strategy and weather predictions (87.7FM). Trying to keep track just by watching is possible but will begin to make your brain fizz around lap 40. And take some ear plugs. Shooting enthusiasts will be blown away at the award-winning E.J. Churchill Shooting Ground, set in the stunning West Wycombe Estate. Also, Guy Bond, the former Great Britain team manager from 1993 to 2005 and current manager of the England Clay Pigeon Shooting Team, runs a shooting school near Aylesbury.

“For golf, swing on by to one of the county’s many courses – of which Buckinghamshire has the highest concentration in the UK – including world-class venues such as Stoke Park”

Opposite page Spend a noisy day at Silverstone race circuit; Top left Take to the treetops at one of Buckinghamshire’s two Go Ape sites; Above left Stadium MK, home to MK Dons football team

Trampolining centres are springing up all over the place at the moment – the most recent being Rush in High Wycombe. A great way to tire the kids out! Water babies will be in their element at the Longridge Activity Centre in Marlow, which provides a range of water and land-based activities from sailing to climbing. Scuba diving can be enjoyed at Scubaducks Dive Centre, Aylesbury. Open-air pools can be found at Chesham and in High Wycombe, and gyms and leisure centres are in most of the bigger towns. For golf, swing on by to one of the county’s many courses – of which Buckinghamshire has the highest concentration in the UK – including world-class venues such as Stoke Park. Sometimes being a spectator is better than taking part, so don’t miss the chance to see the MK Dons FC play at Stadium MK, Milton Keynes, or Wycombe Wanders FC at Adams Park, High Wycombe.

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Finding your way around Getting to this county couldn’t be simpler and visitors can also get around with ease

GETTING HERE By car Buckinghamshire is well served by motorways, with the M1, M25 and M40 all passing through the county or nearby, with links also provided to the M4 and M3 motorways. The county is approximately a 30-minute drive to London and close to Oxford and Birmingham too. By air Those visiting the county via a flight will arrive either at one of the London airports or Birmingham Airport. In all there are five airports within little more than 1.5 hours drive of Buckinghamshire. These are Heathrow (45 mins), Luton (45 mins), Gatwick (85 mins), Stansted (85 mins) and Birmingham (95 mins). By public transport One of the simplest routes into Buckinghamshire is via

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coach, with National Express coaches stopping at most major towns in the county. As part of the London commuter belt, Buckinghamshire is well connected to the national rail network. The county’s railways are serviced by Chiltern Railways, with lines stretching from Birmingham to London Marylebone station, taking in Oxford, Warwick, Banbury, Bicester and Stratford-upon-Avon, before entering Buckinghamshire and stopping at Amersham, Aylesbury, Beaconsfield, Gerrards Cross, High Wycombe, Princes Risborough, Stoke Mandeville, Wendover and more. First Great Western provides commuter services from Taplow and Iver (connecting Bourne End and Marlow) into Paddington. London Midland provides commuter services from Milton Keynes into Euston while Southern provides services (via the West London Line) from Milton Keynes to Croydon. There are also a variety of intercity services connecting other parts of the country. See

Above Marlow Suspension Bridge, built by William Tierney Clark in the mid-19th century was seen as a prototype for the much larger Budapest Chain Bridge


TRAVEL

“As part of the London commuter belt, Buckinghamshire is well connected to the national rail network. The county’s railways are serviced by Chiltern Railways, with lines stretching from Birmingham to London”

National Rail Enquiries for all the latest information on train times, routes and tickets. Buckinghamshire also has three London Underground stations – Chalfont & Latimer, Amersham and Chesham – which run on the Metropolitan Line.

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GETTING AROUND By car Five important A roads run through the county (from north to south): A5 serving Milton Keynes; A421 serving Milton Keynes and Buckingham and linking the M1 to the M40; A41 which cuts through the centre of the county from Watford to Bicester, serving Aylesbury; A40 which runs parallel to the M40 through south Bucks and continues to Central London; and A4 serving Taplow in the very south. By public transport Several bus companies operate within Buckinghamshire including Arriva, Carousel and Redline, servicing all corners of the county and offering reasonably-priced travel to and from many of the county’s pretty market towns. It’s easy to get around on the train in Bucks, with the beautiful countryside acting as the perfect vista for your journey. A charming way to travel is on the Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway line, a steam railway running from Chinnor to Thame in South Oxfordshire, and soon, to Princes Risborough in Buckinghamshire. The Traveline website has up-to-date information on all bus, coach and rail services in Buckinghamshire. Alternative transport With more than 2,500 miles of cycle lanes, cycle routes, paths with cycle access and public bridleway, cycling, walking and horse riding is a big deal in Bucks. Check out the many Buckinghamshire routes available with maps available on the Buckinghamshire County Council website.

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Ready to explore more? Although Buckinghamshire has more than enough to keep you busy, a journey further afield can make for an exciting new adventure

ot some time to spare? While you’ll never be short of things to do in Buckinghamshire, its central position makes it a great place for exploring central and southern regions. Wherever you’re staying, you’re never more than around 45 minutes away from London by train, so a trip to the Natural History Museum, Harrods, Big Ben or taking in a West End show is very do-able. The southern part of the county borders Berkshire, where you can visit one of the most popular tourist attractions in the UK – Royal Windsor. See the Changing of the Guard at Windsor Castle, take a tour of the Queen’s

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second home, explore the shops or simply enjoy a stroll along the Long Walk in the magnificent Great Park. Got the kids with you? Then Windsor really cannot be missed as it’s also home to Legoland, a thrilling place for younger children. A little further south is Thorpe Park and Chessington World of Adventures for older thrill-seekers. Thrills of a different kind can be found at Ascot Racecourse, famous for the King George VI and Queen Elizabeth Stakes during Royal Ascot week in July, although race meetings are held regularly throughout the year. Nearby you’ll find Windsor Racecourse, which can be accessed via a river cruise if you want to make a special event of it.


BEYOND BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

Speaking of rivers, Henley-on-Thames is a really pretty town for exploring, either by boat or on foot, and the River and Rowing Museum is simply charming. If you’re lucky enough to be staying in June/July you might be able to book tickets for the regatta or the fabulous festival. POTTER POTTY To the west of the county you’ve got some amazing places to visit, not least the Warner Bros. Studio Tour in Leavesden, where Harry Potter fans can experience the magical props, animatronic creatures, costumes and sets used to create the eight-film series over 10 years. Make sure you stop off for a Butterbeer in the cafe, and of course take your chances with Bertie Botts Every Flavour Beans (fingers crossed you don’t get vomit flavour). Animal lovers should stop in to The Natural History Museum in Tring, just over the border in Hertfordshire, where you can see the incredible zoological collections of Walter Rothschild. If you prefer your animals more alive, head to either Whipsnade Zoo in Dunstable or Woburn Safari Park just outside Milton Keynes. History lovers will be in their element. The surrounding

“You’re also a stone’s throw from historic Oxford. Here you can spend the day exploring the shops or university colleges, punting along the river or visiting one of its excellent museums” counties are home to such gems as Hatfield House, Elizabeth I’s childhood home, in Hertfordshire; Woburn Abbey, with links to the safari park, in Bedfordshire; The Roman Theatre of Verulamium and Hypocaust in St Albans; Althorp Estate, former home of Princess Diana in Northamptonshire; and the monumental Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire – the only non-royal non-episcopal country house in England to hold the title of palace. You’re also a stone’s throw from historic Oxford. Here you can spend the day exploring the shops or university colleges, punting along the river or visiting one of its excellent museums, such as the Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology, Pitt Rivers Museum or the Bodleian Library. Whichever direction you head off in, you’ll find something fun at the end for sure!

Above The Long Walk, Windsor Castle, in neighbouring Berkshire; Left You are never far from the capital when staying in Bucks

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Photo finish The Palladian Bridge at Stowe Landscape Garden and park



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