BELLE WINTER 09/10 // ISSUE 01 // FREE
WINTER IssUE
BOLD BEAUTy COVERAGE OF THE MOST STRIKING BEAUTY TRENDS from the Winter 09/10 shows
in New York, London, Milan and Paris
“ThE ONLy PREDICTAbLE ThING AbOUT
ChANGE IN
BEAUTy Is CHANGE
ItsELf.” KATE DE CAsTELbAJAC
BELLE The Winter Issue 09/10 EDITOR IN CHIEF Kirsty Armstrong
CREATIVE DIRECTION & DESIGN Kirsty Armstrong
PHOTOGRAPHY
Mel Bagshaw, Marta Ovod, Christine Smith, Alan Myers All text by Kirsty Armstrong.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS BELLE would like to thank: Annabel Meggeson, Catherine Turner, Jane de Teliga, Mel Bagshaw, Marta Ovod, Anu Pesonen, Christine Smith, Alan Myers, Ruth Wiles, Jodi Isaacs, Caroline Donnelly, Luch Hough, Sarah Larsen, Ashley Simmons, Carly Auld, Shinya Fukami, Atsushi Ninomiya, Naeriva Kaw, Andrew Tucker and all who helped with the issue. Special thanks to: Christine & Malcolm Armstrong for their continued love, support and encouragement.
COPYRIGHT
Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine, without permission, is strictly forbidden.
Printed in Great Britain by Headley Brothers Ltd.
WEBSITE
http://atouchofgloss.blogspot.com
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BELLE
THE WINTER IssUE 09/10
EVERY ISSUE
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EDITOR’S LETTER
EVERY ISSUE
6
CONTRIBUTORS
EVERY ISSUE
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BEAUTY NEWS
The major beauty news hitting the headlines this month. EVERY ISSUE
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CATWALK BEAUTY TRENDS
Coverage of wearable winter trends from the A/W 09 catwalks.
EVERY ISSUE
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CATWALK HAIR TRENDS
Some of winter’s hottest hair styles, straight from the catwalks.
EVERY ISSUE
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TOP SHOWS
Memorable shows from New York, London, Milan and Paris. INTERVIEW
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Q&A
A one-to-one with M.A.C Pro Team Senior Artist, Caroline Donnelly. SHOOT
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ALL THAT GLITTERS Photography Christine Smith, Makeup & Hair Kirsty Armstrong
SHOOT
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SMOKE & MIRRORS
Photography Mel Bagshaw & Marta Ovod, Makeup Anu Pesonan, Hair Atsushi Ninomiya, Styling Kirsty Armstrong
SHOOT
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READ MY LIPS Photography Mel Bagshaw & Marta Ovod, Makeup Anu Pesonan, Hair Shinya Fukami, Styling Kirsty Armstrong
FEATURE
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FIFTIES GLAMOUR
How to get that gorgeous 1950s look. FEATURE
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PLASTIC FANTASTIC
Fifty years of unapologetic glamour for Barbie, the world’s favourite fashion doll. READER MAKEOVER
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RUNWAY TO REALITY
One lucky reader gets a makeover as we recreate the D Squared A/W 09 look. Photography Alan Myers, Makeup Kirsty Armstrong
FEATURE
51
CHANGING FACES
Five models, 91 looks. FEATURE
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HEALTH
Designer Mark Fast’s Big Fashion Statement. FEATURE
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FRAGRANCE
A guide to finding your signature scent.
FEATURE
62
BELLE
MEMOIR
COVER IMAGE: Courtesy of Hennes & Mauritz
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WINTER 09/10 // ISSUE 01 // FREE
A fragrant journey through time.
WINTER IssUE
CREATIVE DIRECTION: All graphic design by Kirsty Armstrong
BOLD BEAUTy COVERAGE OF THE MOST STRIKING BEAUTY TRENDS from the Winter 09/10 shows
in New York, London, Milan and Paris
EDITOR’S LETTER
I’d like to welcome you to the very first issue of BELLE. I’d also like to believe that the reason you picked up this magazine was a) because the cover looked enticing and b) because it was a delightful looking free and, one might say, glossy magazine, but above all else, I’m hoping that you chose to pick up this magazine because you adore wearing MAKEUP. Not just any old products either, we’re talking the GOOD stuff. If I’m right then we’re off to a good start. We’ve broken the ice, so to speak. Now let’s get down to the nitty gritty... Let me let you into a little secret. During a lifetime, there are few things a person can say they are truly PASSIONATE about. Granted there are things we like, things we enjoy and even things we’d go as far to say we love. Then, there are those things that we simply couldn’t live without. The pretty little products that rock our world. At BELLE, these are the things we are PASSIONATE about. Some might call it an obsession... For us, our passion lies in makeup. It is the excitement backstage at a Paris fashion show as a persona is created through the carefully constructed makeup look, that gets our pulse going. We sit watching the eagerly anticipated shows of DOLCE & GABBANA, CHRISTIAN DIOR, GIORGIO ARMANI and CHANEL and we find our eyes wander over the fabulous fashion creations to the FACE. As much as we love fashion, what we’re really interested in is the exact shade of berry we will be wearing on our lips next season, or the particular depth of lilac we’ll be donning on our eyes. This obession with makeup is the philosophy behind this magazine. Here at BELLE we believe it’s about time that someone provided all of you knowledgeable makeup fans with a publication dedicated to FASHION MAKEUP. One which will not insult your intelligence by giving you a step-by-step guide of how to apply mascara, but one that will strive to give you in-depth coverage from global fashion shows with a focus purely on the MAKEUP TRENDS. With this in mind, we begin our journey in the Winter 2009 season. Sit back. Relax. Enjoy. As we say our goodbyes to the Noughties, put your best FACE forward and enter 2010...
FROM TOP,: Contouring at BLUMARINE on page 9. Our star model, Natasha Poly, featured in ‘Changing Faces’ on page 51. Two models wearing the crimped hair trend backstage at the KARL LAGERFELD show (page 15).
Kirsty Armstrong Editor
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BELLE THE WINTER IssUE 09/10
CONTRIBUTORS
MARTA OVOD As a photographic artist living and working in London, Marta’s interest in the arts stems from an early age. Her passion for photography began while developing black and white images with her father as a young girl. Finding herself with a creative interest in patterns and objects, soon presented Marta with the desire to photograph these articles. Marta graduated from the University of Westminster with a degree in Photography, before she went on to study towards a Masters in Fashion Photography at the London College of Fashion. Combining conceptual traditions along with impulsive sensibility, her photographs are both colourful and framed with precision. Q: Beauty is‌ “a performance.â€?
NEN ANU PEsO Having gained her training in Specialist Makeup and Fine Art, Anu now works in all areas of makeup including fashion, editorial, theatrical and film and TV. With an interest in drawing, Anu soon found that the human face was her preferred canvas. Having a keen eye for detail, her fascination extended to body painting and an element of fantasy and fashion is a strong theme in her work. Q: Beauty is... “a creation.�
w MEL BAGshA The British photographer has a long standing history in the Arts. After studying towards a degree in Fine Art at Central Saint Martins, Mel then went on to study photography at the University of Westminster. He later graduated from the London College of Fashion with a Masters in Fashion Photography. During Mel’s career he has worked as a Freelance Illustrator for a large number of editorial magazines and major advertising agencies. He has also devised and curated exhibitions for the British Film Institute, The Victoria and Albert Museum and The Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art. Mel now works with an edgy fashion style. Drawing inspiration from areas such as film and reportage photography, he focuses on merging colour and concept together to produce striking photographic results. Q: Beauty is‌ ³FRQVWDQWO\ FKDQJLQJ ZLWK IDVKLRQ FXOWXUH DQG DJH ´
ChRIsTINE S MITh ALAN MyERs The British portrait photographer originates from the North East of England and specialises in fashion photography. He enjoys experimenting with movement and diversity in images, which he applied to the Reader Makeover shoot in this issue. One of his biggest interests in photography stems from his fascination with Photoshop and the idea of transforming an image from a photograph into a piece of art. Q: Beauty is... “endless.� 6
As a graduate of Northumbria University’s degree in Contemporary Photographic Practice, Christine is currently working for an experienced commercial and lifestyle photographic studio. Specialising in fashion and lifestyle photgraphy, Christine’s long term goal is to continue the areas of practice investigated during education, and produce Fine Art photographic works, which are not only beautiful and ethereal, but provoke emotions and use the photographic lense to explore hidden meaning within a subject. Q: Beauty is... ³¿QGLQJ \RXU LQQHU SHDFH ´
WINtER
BEAUty SMOULDERING eyes, perfect POUTS, chiselled CHEEKBONES and FLIRTY flicks... BELLE presents four of the HOTTEST beauty trends for the winter 09/10 season
CHLOE
DONNA KARAN
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
PRADA CHLOE
SMOKy EyEs
D SQUARED
WARM TONES. The houses of CHLOE, DONNA KARAN and OSCAR DE LA RENTA opted for natural shades of bronze and mocha blended into the eye socket, emphasising the shape of eyes. The inner corners of eyes were then highlighted with an iridescent pale gold. At PRADA a theatrical take on the smoky eyes trend was presented. Created by blending deep shades of mahogany, red and brown, the look was finished by adding a fiery orange glitter to the central section of the eyelid.
Shades ranging from coffee brown to charcoal black were smudged over eyelids to create a SMOULDERING look for winter 09/10.
ROBERTO CAVALLI
ANNA SUI
MICHAEL KORS
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MARC JACOBS
MICHAEL KORS
DARK SIDE. There was no messing around at MICHAEL KORS and DSQUARED, where shades of charcoal and black were used to create a striking bad girl look. Teamed with understated lips this fierce look had some major attitude. At ROBERTO CAVALLI a gold, metallic dust was swept across the eyelid injecting another dimension to the matte black shades. Deep grey tones were accented with shades of brown and orange to create a smouldering look at ANNA SUI.
GILES EMANUEL UNGARO
D&G GILES
ALBERTA FERRETTI
D&G
COLOUR POP. The look at ALBERTA FERRETTI was all about bright, fuchsia coloured lips, with a frosted finish. A futuristic take on beauty was presented at EMANUEL UNGARO, where lower lips were coloured in a magenta shade and upper lips were painted orange. This striking look gave a fresh take on wearing lipstick. At GILES full lips were painted in a spunky shade of orange-red. Against porcelain skin, this look was bold and striking.
LOUd MOUth Perfectly lined lips in striking shades were seen all over the winter runways. Smear red, orange, fuchsia or berry over lips and wear with ATTITUDE.
D&G
HUSSEIN CHALAYAN
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
THEATRICAL LOOK. D&G and HUSSEIN CHALAYAN opted for the deepest, darkest shades of berry painted onto remarkably lined lips to create drama. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN took things to another level by using a bold, glossy shade of red to exaggerate the size and shapes lips, making for a theatrical look.
ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA
ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA
ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA
ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA
CLEVER COntOURs
ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA
SCULPTED CHEEKBONES. At ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA the look was all about contouring. Dark bronze shades were blended below the cheekbones and continued right up to the temple area, creating a seriously sculpted face. Chocolate brown was swept across eyelids and blended into the eye socket. The same shade was used below the eye to compliment the face. The look was finished by first lining the lips, then applying a coppery, gold-coloured lipstick and high gloss.
For winter 09/10 faces were sculpted to perfection with matte bronze shades creating dazzling CHEEKBONES.
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BLUMARINE
BLUMARINE
BLUMARINE
DEWY PERFECTION. At BLUMARINE skin was fresh and flawless. Foundation was applied to look light and natural and cheeks were sculpted with a matte bronzer, slightly darker than the base colour. Eyebrows were shaded with neutral colours to create a thick, arched shape which worked to frame the face. A very light brown shade was swept across the whole eye area to enhance the natural shadow of the socket, and to bring out the eye colour.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
DKNY MANISH ARORA
MARC JACOBS
MARC JACOBS
EXAGGERATED EYES. MARC JACOBS presented a range of looks but there was one common theme throughout them all: heavily lined, elongated eyes. Shades of dark green, purple and black, were blended into the eye socket and extended towards the temple. At MANISH ARORA a liquid bright orange was used to draw attention to eyes. At DKNY and VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, the look was much more subtle, offering a wearable, flirty look.
WINgEd EyEs Flirty, flicked eyes ranged from subtle and delicate to attention-grabbing, ELONGATED eyes for winter 09/10.
AQUASCUTUM
AQUASCUTUM
DOLCE & GABBANA
FIFTIES DRAMA. DOLCE & GABBANA presented a glamorous fifties-style look, similar to that of icon, Marilyn Monroe. At AQUASCUTUM perfectly lined eyes were teamed with lashings of mascara. Flawless skin and pale lips, worked to ensure the eyes were the dominant feature of the makeup look.
SHOWS OF THE SEASON
NEW YORK
MARC JACObs
A
t Marc Jacobs, makeup artist Francois Nars championed the eighties by using an electric, neon colour palette and sharp shapes to echo the runway looks the models were wearing. With a breathtaking array of edgy looks on show, amounting to 65 in total, the message from the catwalk was clearly about individuality: “I wanted to play with the girl’s individual personalities, so each one was given a different ‘party’ face. This show was about playing with colour and being adventurous,” he said. A key element that ran throughout all of the looks was starting with a perfectly porcelain, matte foundation. Eyes were then rimmed with black kohl liner, to give a deep, dark base to create smoky eyes. This technique is easy to recreate at home as Nars explains: “Line inside and 18
outside the eyes, top and bottom with black eyeliner, then smudge out with your fingers to create an intense base for smoky eyes.” Shadows in both cream and powder textures, in shades of cobalt blue, purple, red, yellow and emerald green, were blended deep into the eye socket, creating a dramatic look. Lips were painted in colours including nude, lilac, green, purple and red. This collection of fierce makeup looks was complimented by gravity-defying sculpted hair, created by hair stylist Guido Palau, to project a distinctly punk feel. Such a diverse range of makeup looks is not usually found in just one show, but Francois Nars has a great understanding of the power of makeup as a tool of transformation. He says: “Makeup is a great accessory, and that’s the message.”
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hAVE MUst- Ts C D PRO U 1 Larger Than Life Volumising Mascara, £18 2 Loose Powder in Snow, £24 3 Multiple in Copacabana, £27 (All by NARS) 3
SHOWS OF THE SEASON
LONDON
GILEs
G
iles presented a clean, trendy makeup look, which is both wearable and fun. Created by the M.A.C Pro Team, this look exhibited a flawless foundation base and minimum makeup, with the emphasis purely on the lips. Painted in a bright orangered shade, lips looked full and luscious, providing a modern-day glamorous, yet grungy look. This grunge attitude was reflected in the simple makeup look, which gave a raw, slightly unfinished look to the show. This unusual show included a mixture of professional models
and everyday girls that Giles came across in London’s Camden Borough. This mixture of perfection and normality created a distinctly punk feel. Giles said: “To be honest, I just got a little bored of seeing the same girls in every single show. Once they have had their hair and makeup done, they all start to look the same. I really wanted a diversity of type.” The beauty message from the Giles show clearly highlighted that sometimes less is more. Focusing on one feature, such as using a bright colour on lips, creates a bold, statement look.
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hAVE MUst- Ts C PRODU 1 Double-ended Lipliner in Cranberry, £13.50, by Smashbox Cosmetics 2 L’Absolou Lipstick in Rouge Odyssee, £17.50, by Lancome 3 Touche Eclat in Fair, £23, by Yves Saint Laurent 4 High Definition Foundation in Flesh, £24, by Make Up For Ever
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SHOWS OF THE SEASON
MILAN
GUCCI
A
t Gucci the look was undeniably an Eighties affair. Makeup was bold, bright and inyour-face, which is exactly the way Makeup Artist, Pat McGrath, had created it. The eighties catwalk trend of exaggerated shoulders was reflected in the eyes as shades were winged right out to the temples. The colour palette was a distinct reflection of the exuberant and loud attitude of
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the decade including shades of raspberry, fuchsia, red and, most importantly, blue. Heavy eyeliner complimented the look, giving the Gucci woman a mysterious air. Shades of pink were swept onto cheeks, and lips were painted in a deep red shade. This fierce look encapsulates everything about eighties style. Hair was slicked back with a slight raised section in the centre.
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hAVE MUst- Ts UC D O R P
1 Rouge Volupte Lipstick in Red Muse, £20, by Yves Saint Laurent 2 Eyeshadow in True Blue, £11.45, by Make Up For Ever 3 Eyeshadow in Dark Raspberry, £11.45, by Make Up For Ever 4 Second-Skin Cheek Colour in Rose Bloom, £14.45, by Laura Mercier
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SHOWS OF THE SEASON
PARIS
ChRIstIAN DIOR
A
t Christian Dior, legendary make up artist, Pat McGrath drew her inspiration from the 1920s to create a bold, striking look. The use of bright, exuberant colours gave the look an oriental influence, which was reflected in the luscious silk fabrics and opulent mood of the collection. “The story for us is a very oriental look. We’re doing pinks, purples, silvers, and little bits of gold glitter,” said make up artist, Pat McGrath. As well of these shades a spectrum of other bright hues including yellow and orange were used cleverly around eyes to create depth
and shadow. Long, feathery false lashes were applied to both the top and bottom lashes giving a very dramatic effect. Cheeks were swept with striking shades of baby pink, peach and coral, highlighting cheekbones. Lips were lined to accentuate a Cupid’s bow shape, and were then painted in a deep purple colour. Eyebrows were erased, before a thin line was drawn in an arched shape, recreating the once-loved twenties shape. The twenties theme was carried through to hair where a polished wave was clipped into place with around 300 bobby pins per head.
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hAVE MUst- Ts UC D O R P 1 Dior Show Iconic Mascara in Noir, £20 2 Eyeshadow palette in Petal Shine, £34.50 3 Dior Addict High Shine Lipstick in Brun Muse, £19 (All by Dior) 3
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INTERVIEW
BELLE Q&A
CAROLINE DONNELLy
The M.A.C Pro Team SENIOR ARTIST talks to Kirsty Armstrong about the atmosphere working BACKSTAGE during London Fashion Week, making up famous faces, and must-have makeup products to stock up on for Spring... Caroline Donnelly is a member of the M.A.C Pro Team and collaborates with designers to create makeup looks for fashion shows and magazines around the globe. She’s worked with a range of celebrities including Erin O’Connor, Elizabeth Jagger and Kylie Minogue. Her work has been published in British Elle, The Observer and InStyle and she specialises in body painting and beauty makeup. But how do you make it big in the makeup artistry industry? Here, Caroline shares her insider makeup knowledge exclusively with BELLE… BELLE: When did you know you wanted to become a makeup artist and what inspired you to do so? CD: I didn’t think about make up artistry being a job until after I’d trained as a graphic designer and realised it wasn’t for me. I loved the illustration side and did this for a few years and then saw a part time makeup course at a local college. I loved it. My teacher said I should seek a career in this and so I decided to go for it. After that I won a scholarship at the London College of Fashion for two years. I’d always loved makeup and watching my mum put it on. I used to do makeup for other people. I was fiveyears-old in 1977 when punk broke into the headlines and TV shows. My dad had a couple of albums. I was already fascinated by 1950’s movie stars, and then there was disco. Even at a very young age I was intrigued by these women and their hair and makeup. BELLE: What was the first big opportunity/job you were given?
CD: My first paid make-up job was as an extra assistant on the BBC show Byker Grove. I still lived in Newcastle at the time, where it was filmed. BELLE: In terms of catwalk makeup, can you talk me through the development process of a makeup look from conception to the final look? CD: The job starts with the stylist’s vision of what the girls should look like in the show. We then interpret this onto a model in a test situation, days prior to the show. The makeup artist will work together with the stylist, hairdresser and designer to create the final look and this will then be reproduced on the day of the show. BELLE: Where do you gather your inspiration and ideas for makeup themes and looks? CD: I’m inspired by so many different things. It could be makeup I have seen, art, movie stars, real people, fabric. It depends on the situation and what I am doing. BELLE: Out of all of the designer makeup looks you’ve created, which is your favourite? CD: So many shows and so many incredible makeups. It would be impossible to pick just one. One of my most inspirational experiences was with the makeup artist Kabuki; watching how he thinks, designs and makes his visions come to life. BELLE: In the makeup/beauty industry who would be your ‘idol’ and why? CD: There are so many people I admire, but some of the makeup artists whose work never fails to make me happy, are
“Try PERFECTING black liner or sharp lined red lips whilst the MODEL’s head is tugged about in hair!”
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MUst-HAVE PRODUCTS CAROLINE’S TOP PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS
FACE AND BODY FOUNDATION, £23, by M.A.C A water-based, waterresistant foundation that provides natural coverage for face and body.
GRAEME BLACK ERDEM RICHARD NICOLL
HEADONISM
RICHARD NICOL
L
RICHARD NICOLL
“There’s three rules for SPRING makeup: colour, colour, colour.”
STUDIO MOISTURE TINT SPF 15, £19, by M.A.C An easy one-step finish that provides just enough coverage to even out the skintone.
GRAEME BLACK ERDEM
BELLE: You’ve certainly made up many famous faces during your career so far, but if you could work with anyone, at all, who would it be and why? CD: At the moment I’d love to do Paloma Faith’s makeup as she has an interesting look and she’d be fun to make up. She looks like she’s quite open to different looks and it would be an opportunity to flex the creative muscles. BELLE: What would you say has been your career highlight to date? CD: Working with Cyndi Lauper last year was amazing as I’d loved her growing up. I love working with Erin O’Connor as she is a lovely person with such an amazing face. Travel has been fantastic, going to places I would never have gone. I went to Beirut and loved it. Today I am going to Brazil. BELLE: If I asked you to give a ‘makeup forecast’ what do you predict will be the key makeup trends for spring? CD: Beautiful skin with a gorgeous glow in all the right places. Strong lips. Cream blushes in floral colours. Black around the eyes, or colour, or nothing. There’s three rules for spring makeup: colour, colour, colour. BELLE: What products should we stock up on to enable us to wear those trends? CD: M.A.C Face and Body foundation or M.A.C Studio Moisture Tint are going to be the base of choice without a doubt. M.A.C Cream Colour Base, in a colour which works for your skin tone, to highlight skin on cheekbones, bridge of the nose and all of the usual places. Oh, and keep an eye out for a new blush formulation that M.A.C will be launching next spring, everyone loved these backstage. BELLE: Which essential beauty products would you not leave home without? CD: I couldn’t leave home without blusher, to give me colour in my cheeks; concealer, just for where it’s needed; mascara to open up the eyes; and brow pencil to give my brows their shape, as I ruined them when I was young. I think these are beauty essentials for everyone. BELLE: Lastly, complete the sentence: ‘Beauty is…’ CD: The old saying ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’. It’s different for everyone. Look how you want to look. We are all individuals and your ‘own’ beauty is your beauty.
JOSH GOOT
Topolino, Kabuki, Val Garland, Pat McGrath and Alex Box. Each for technical ability, their beautiful work and creative brains. BELLE: Working as a M.A.C Senior Artist during fashion week, what would a day in your shoes entail? CD: As a M.A.C Senior Artist working backstage we have to be very organised. Previous to the show we will have gone to the test and so we know all the products that will be used. As the official makeup brand we have to make sure that all of the makeup artists on the show will have the correct products. This means going to the M.A.C Pro store and pulling all the products needed. On arrival at the show we need to distribute these products whilst making sure the key artist has everything he or she needs. We will often help organise the team, letting the makeup artists know what the key makeup artist wants them to do. For instance, a team to do bodies (moisturise and cover bruises), or they could be on lips, or powder, or whatever is needed. BELLE: How would you describe the atmosphere, working backstage at a show? CD: Sometimes it can be very calm, but mostly it is pretty hectic. Everybody just wants the models to be ready on time and to look beautiful, whatever the design. It usually starts off calm but then as models arrive late from other shows it’s all hands on deck. As the hairdressers need electrical power for their work, we often have to makeup the model in hair. Our tools are easily transportable. This means getting in between the hairdressers’ and sometimes partnering up with another makeup artist. This can be very tricky and your heart beats at 90 miles per hour. Try perfecting black liner or sharp lined red lips whilst the models head is tugged about in hair! You get a great buzz from working on the shows. If everything gets really hectic it’s a great sense of achievement when it all works out, and it always does, because it has to. BELLE: If you could use only one makeup product to create a look what would you choose and why? CD: If I had to just use one product it would be foundation. It comes in so many different colours, textures and finishes meaning that you can create a whole face using this one product alone.
JOSH GOOT
INTERVIEW
SPRING BEAUTY PREVIEW
Caroline Donnelly worked as the KEY Makeup Artist on the Spring/Summer 10 HEADONISM show at London Fashion Week. She also worked on the GRAEME BLACK, ERDEM, JOSH GOOT and RICHARD NICOLL shows.
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SMOKE SMOKE AND ANd MIRRORs MIRRORs Photography MARTA OVOD Makeup ANU PESONEN Hair ATSUSHI NINOMIYA Model NAERIVA KAW
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Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Mineralise Blush in Hand Finish, M.A.C; Glitter in Crystalled Lime, M.A.C; Soft & Sparkle Eye Pencil in Iris Accents, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in White Pearl, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Ego, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Crystal, M.A.C; Kohl Liner in Smoulder, M.A.C; Liquid Liner in Black Track, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Lip Liner in Fuchsia, M.A.C; Lipstick in Impassioned, M.A.C
Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Mineralise Blush in Hand Finish, M.A.C; Pigment in Bright Fuchsia, M.A.C; Pigment in Pure White, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Passionate, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Swish, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Pink Freeze, M.A.C; Chromacake in Pure White, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Lipstick in Cyber, M.A.C; Lustreglass in Decorative, M.A.C
Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Blushcreme in Cherche, M.A.C; Cream Colour Base in Pearl, M.A.C; Chromacake in Rich Purple, Primary Yellow, Pure White and Basic Red, M.A.C; Kohl Liner in Smoulder, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Lip Pencil in Plum, M.A.C; Lipstick in Odyssey, M.A.C; Clear Lipglass, M.A.C
ADJACENT PAGE: Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Blushcreme in Cherche, M.A.C; Cream Colour Base in Pearl, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Shadowy Lady, Plumage and Humid, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Brow Liner in Spiked, M.A.C; Lip Pencil in Currant, M.A.C; Lipstick in Spice It Up, M.A.C
Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Powder Blush in Pinch Me, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Orange, Chrome Yellow and Vapour, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Lip Pencil in Cherry, M.A.C; Lipstick in Lady Danger, M.A.C; Clear Lipglass, M.A.C
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REAd My
LIps Photography MEL BAGSHAW Makeup ANU PESONEN Hair SHINYA FUKAMI Model TANYA KRYZONI
Prep & Prime Face Cream, M.A.C; Studio Fix Fluid Foundation in NW20, M.A.C; Studio Finish Concealer in NC15, M.A.C; Moisture Cover Concealer in NW20, M.A.C; Mineralize Skin Finish Powder in Light/Medium, M.A.C; Soft & Gentle Mineralize Highlighter Powder, M.A.C, Blusher in Devil, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Orb, Chrome Yellow and Carbon, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Sunset and Honey Pie, MAKE UP STORE; Liquid Liner in Boot Black, M.A.C; Pro Longlash Mascara in Pitchblack, M.A.C; Lip Liner in Chicory, M.A.C; Lipstick in Morange and MAC Red, M.A.C; Dazzleglass in Utterly Posh, M.A.C
Prep & Prime Face Cream, M.A.C; Studio Fix Fluid Foundation in NW20, M.A.C; Studio Finish Concealer in NC15, M.A.C; Moisture Cover Concealer in NW20, M.A.C; Mineralize Skin Finish Powder in Light/Medium, M.A.C; Soft & Gentle Mineralize Highlighter Powder, M.A.C, Blusher in Azalea, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Embark, Espresso, Wedge and Copperplate, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Jubilee, MAKE UP STORE; Fluidline in Black Track, M.A.C; Pro Longlash Mascara in Pitchblack, M.A.C; Lip Pencil in Magenta, M.A.C; Lipstick in Girl About Town, M.A.C; Dazzleglass in Stop!Look!, M.A.C
Prep & Prime Face Cream, M.A.C; Studio Fix Fluid Foundation in NW20, M.A.C; Studio Finish Concealer in NC15, M.A.C; Moisture Cover Concealer in NW20, M.A.C; Mineralize Skin Finish Powder in Light/Medium, M.A.C; Soft & Gentle Mineralize Highlighter Powder, M.A.C, Blusher in Azalea, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Orb and Plumage, M.A.C; Mineralize Eyeshadow in Green Mix, M.A.C; Liquid Liner in Boot Black, M.A.C; Pro Longlash Mascara in Pitchblack, M.A.C; Lip Liner in Fab Orchid, M.A.C; Lipstick in Violetta, M.A.C; Dazzleglass in Comet Blue, M.A.C
Prep & Prime Face Cream, M.A.C; Studio Fix Fluid Foundation in NW20, M.A.C; Studio Finish Concealer in NC15, M.A.C; Moisture Cover Concealer in NW20, M.A.C; Mineralize Skin Finish Powder in Light/Medium, M.A.C; Soft & Gentle Mineralize Highlighter Powder, M.A.C, Blusher in Azalea, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Blanc Type, Patina, Embark and Espresso, M.A.C; Fluidline in Black Track, M.A.C; Pro Longlash Mascara in Pitchblack, M.A.C; Lip Liner in Cherry, M.A.C; Lipstick in Ruby Woo, M.A.C; Lipglass in Clear, M.A.C
“HAIRsTyLE AND MAKEUp
ARE CRUCIAL FACTORs IN pROJECTING AN
ATTRACTIVE
pERsONA.” VIVIENNE WEsTwOOD
CHANGING
Faces 48 is the number of RUNWAYS Natasha Poly has strutted down in sky-scraper heels… 26 is how many sets of FALSE LASHES Jourdan Dunn has had applied to her delicate eyes… 36 is the number of times Raquel Zimmermann’s lips have been PAINTED in numerous shades… 28 is the number of occasions Tanya Dziahileva’s hair has been STRAIGHTENED… 89 is the amount of hours Lily Donaldson has spent in HAIR AND MAKEUP… But, for you, it all comes down to this…
FIVE MODELS, 91 CATWALK SHOWS
CHANGING FACES
YVES SAINT LAURENT’s
PRECISION POUT
RALPH LAUREN’s
PUNCHY RED LIPS ARE LINED TO PERFECTION
COMPLEXION PERFECTION IT’S ALL ABOUT THE SKIN WITH FLAWLESS FOUNDATION
PROENZA SChOULER’s
SULTRY SMOULDER SEXY SHIMMER IS CREATED USING DEEP BRONZE TONES
NATAshA
POLY MODEL STATISTICS
AGENCY: D.O.B: NATIONALITY: HEIGHT: BUST: WAIST: HIPS: SHOES: HAIR: EYES:
WOMEN 12/07/85 (24 years) Russian 5”10” 33” 23” 34” 9 (US) Dark Blonde Green
BACK ROW (left to right): PREEN; NINA RICCI; JOHN GALLIANO; RALPH LAUREN; ETRO; CHRISTIAN DIOR; YVES SAINT LAURENT; GUCCI; D&G; ALEXANDER WANG FRONT ROW (left to right): BALMAIN; MARC JACOBS; JONATHAN SAUNDERS; JEAN PAUL GAULTIER; KARL LAGERFELD; PROENZA SCHOULER; ZAC POSEN; DIESEL BLACK GOLD; BLUMARINE; PRADA
CHANGING FACES
ChRIsTOphER KANE’s BARE-FACED CHIC
EMANUEL UNGARO’s
SOMETIMES LESS IS CERTAINLY MORE
STRONG BROWS THICK ARCHED EYEBROWS PERFECTLY FRAME THE FACE
JOURDAN
DUNN MODEL STATISTICS
AGENCY: D.O.B: NATIONALITY: HEIGHT: BUST: WAIST: HIPS: SHOES: HAIR: EYES:
STORM 03/08/90 (19 years) British 5”10.5” 32” 24” 35” 10 (US) Dark Brown Brown
HUssEIN ChALAyAN’s
DEEP BERRY LIPS THE DARKEST SHADES OF BERRY ADD DRAMA TO LIPS
BACK ROW (left to right): ISSA; JAEGER LONDON; JASON WU; SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI; KENZO; ANNE VALERIE HASH; ISAAC MIZRAHI; CHRISTOPHER KANE; THAKOON; RODARTE FRONT ROW (left to right): TWENTY8TWELVE; CHEAP & CHIC; EMANUEL UNGARO; JULIEN MACDONALD; GIAMBATTISTA VALLI; RUE DU MAIL; MARY KATRANTZOU; UNIQUE; GILES; HUSSEIN CHALAYAN
CHANGING FACES
VERsACE’s NUDE LIPS WHEN EYES ARE STRONG, KEEP LIPS SIMPLE WITH NUDE, GLOSSY SHADES
MIU MIU’s CHISELLED CHEEKBONES
CREATE CONTOURS AND EMPHASISE BONE STRUCTURE THROUGH THE USE OF BLUSHER
RAQUEL
CHANEL’s
ZIMMERMANN
DRAMATIC LASHES USE FALSE LASHES TO CREATE A FUN, FLIRTY LOOK
MODEL STATISTICS AGENCY: D.O.B: NATIONALITY: HEIGHT: BUST: WAIST: HIPS: SHOES: HAIR: EYES:
VIVA 06/05/83 (26 years) Brazilian 5”11” 33.5” 24” 34.5” 9.5 (US) Blonde Blue
BACK ROW (left to right): ALEXANDER MCQUEEN; BALENCIAGA; LANVIN; VERSACE; HERMES; NARCISO RODRIGUEZ; PHI; POLLINI; LOEWE; RICK OWENS FRONT ROW (left to right): CHANEL; BALMAIN; CHLOE; LOUIS VUITTON; ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA; ALBERTA FERRETTI; MIU MIU; ISABEL MARANT; PRADA; BOTTEGA VENETA
CHANGING FACES
ANTONI BERARDI’s FUCHSIA LIPS TRANSFORM A LOOK FROM DAY-TO-NIGHT BY ADDING A SLICK OF HOT PINK LIPSTICK
VIKTOR & ROLF’s
PORCELAIN SKIN MAKE LIKE THE ELIZABETHAN’S WITH A PERFECTLY WHITE BASE
TANYA DZIAHILEVA
NICOLE MILLER’s
ICE-BLUE EYES IRIDESCENT BLUE SHADOW, USED ON EYES, CREATES A FROSTY LOOK
MODEL STATISTICS AGENCY: AGE: NATIONALITY: HEIGHT: BUST: WAIST: HIPS: SHOES: HAIR: EYES:
ELITE 04/01/91 (18 years) Belarusian 5”11” 33” 24” 34” 9.5 (US) Light Blonde Blue/Green
BACK ROW (left to right): NICOLE FARHI; YOHJI YAMAMOTO; BRIONI; SALVATORE FERRAGAMO; ANNE DEMEULEMEESTER; DIANE VON FURSTENBERG; SPORTMAX; ANTONI BERARDI; GUY LAROCHE; JASPER CONRAN FRONT ROW (left to right): JILL STUART; OSSIE CLARK; MOSCHINO; D SQUARED; BYBLOS; VIKTOR & ROLF; VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL; ELIE SAAB; NICOLE MILLER
CHANGING FACES
ZAC POsEN’s LOUD MOUTH
ALLOW YOUR LIPS TO DO THE TALKING WITH A BRIGHT SHADE LIKE ORANGE
CAROLINA HERRERA’s
ENGLISH ROSE USE A ROSY COLOURED BLUSH ON THE APPLES OF CHEEKS
LILY LOUIs VUITTON’s FLICKED LINER OOZE GLAMOUR BY USING A LIQUID LINER ON THE UPPER LIDS
DONALDsON MODEL STATISTICS AGENCY: AGE: NATIONALITY: HEIGHT: BUST: WAIST: HIPS: SHOES: HAIR: EYES:
IMG 27/01/87 (22 years) British 5”10” 33” 23” 34” 9 (US) Blonde Blue
BACK ROW (left to right): DOLCE & GABBANA; JEAN PAUL GAULTIER; VALENTINO; ZAC POSEN; MICHAEL KORS; MAXMARA; OSCAR DE LA RENTA MARC BY MARC JACOBS; PHI; LANVIN FRONT ROW (from left to right): LOUIS VUITTON; GIVENCHY; BURBERRY PRORSUM; DONNA KARAN; CHANEL; ANNA SUI; CHLOE; DEREK LAM; CAROLINA HERRERA; RAG & BONE
“A wOMAN whO DOEsN’T wEAR
LIpsTICK
” IN PUbLIC. FEELs UNDREssED
MAX FACTOR
Central Saint Martins graduate, MARK FAST, at the close of his S/S 10 show during London Fashion Week.
BELLE HEALTH
BIG FAshION
STATEMENT Designer MARK FAST attempts to BREAK THE MOULD and start a significant trend, bringing REAL CURVES to the runway...
O
n day two of London Fashion Week a sleepy fashion crowd mustered themselves early on a bright Saturday morning to attend Mark Fast’s Spring/Summer 10 show. As a creator of show-stopping garments, spun and weaved using an array of bold, beautiful, and often spectacular colours, the audience had great expectations for the show ahead. Fast’s creations are tightly knitted and wrapped around bodies, always championing the body-con trend and his fashion-fans all have one thing in common – they’re young, thin, tall and toned. In a word, they’re beautiful. But on that September day, the Canadian-born designer had a shocking surprise in store that would break away from the conventions of a fashion show as we know it… Yes, there were still bright, beautiful colours. Yes, the creations were still intricately knitted, sculpted designs. Yes, there were spectacular shoes created by Christian Louboutin. But, along with the expected slender models we have come to expect, Fast sent three ‘normal’ sized models down the runway wearing his skimpy designs. This controversial decision led to the show’s stylist, allegedly, walking out on him the night before the show took place. Luckily, Fast was able to get stylist, Daniella Agnelli, to step in and help out. Fast’s surprise casting of three normal-sized models occurred after he became involved in the new All Walks Beyond The Catwalk initiative. Founded by Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne, Erin O’Connor and Susan Ringwood, All Walks Beyond The Catwalk aims to challenge some of the fashion industry’s long-held preconceptions about size, shape and perceptions of beauty. Caryn Franklin explains: “This is about inclusivity. Curvy women are showcasing top design alongside slender women… The diversity is what we wanted.”
“it DEMONSTRATES how the fashion world is taking the APPRECIATION of all WOMEN seriously.” Mark Fast
ALL WALKS. Size-12 model, Hayley Morley, photographed by Kayt Jones for the London Fashion Week p h o t o g rap hy exhibition.
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HEALTH
MARK FAST S/S 10. There was a distinct difference between the body sizes of the usual catwalk models and the normal-sized models MARK FAST cast in his Spring/Summer 10 show at London Fashion Week.
Sticking to his signature knitted, body-con aesthetic, Fast designed bespoke garments for size-12 model, Hayley Morley, for the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk exhibition. Fast comments: “All Walks is important because it demonstrates how the fashion world is taking the appreciation of all women seriously.” A photography exhibition, which took place on the first evening of London Fashion Week at Somerset House, officially launched the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk initiative. Present at the party was prime minister’s wife, Sarah Brown. “London Fashion Week is all about celebrating British brilliance, and All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is a chance to be proud of British beauty… It’s a reminder that true style and glamour know no boundaries,” she says. As well as Fast, several other emerging ready-towear designers such as Hannah Marshall, David Koma, Georgia Hardinge and William Tempest have also collaborated with a diverse range of models to create bespoke garments that will accommodate the model’s individual shape and size. Hannah Marshall says: “All Walks Beyond The Catwalk is steering the way for diversity in the fashion industry… It challenges the ideals of what beauty is and makes us think, really think.” William Tempest adds: “It’s really refreshing to be making and seeing fashion on a variety of different shapes and sizes.” Some amongst the fashion spectators were outraged by Fast’s show, mostly because, increasingly, there is an expectation to see a certain size model on a catwalk. From years of seeing show after show where the designers have used thin models, the industry has come to regard this as the norm.
Although Fast was praised by many for taking a risk with his decision to cast normalsized models, he also received criticism. Part of the problem with putting real-size women on the catwalk worked to highlight how thin the usual models actually are. All Walks Beyond The Catwalk was inspired by the charity BEAT, which is a UK national charity supporting people affected by eating disorders. Susan Ringwood, Chief Executive of BEAT says: “We know that fashion doesn’t directly cause eating disorders – they are much more complex than that… Young people are inspired by fashion and influenced by ideals. By offering these wonderful images of diverse beauty, we know that fashion’s influence beyond the catwalk can be seen as a positive force in young people’s lives.” The body size of models is always a controversial topic that reoccurs time and time again. The Model Health Inquiry launched by the British Fashion Council in 2007 in response to the size-zero trend, failed to make its mark or induce change in the industry. Fast took a huge risk by casting normal-sized models in his show, but it was his belief in the cause that led him to his decision. By putting his designs on bigger models it makes it more possible for us to visualise the clothes on our own bodies, instead of looking at them as pieces of art. In turn, this makes fashion more accessible. Yes, he risked ridicule by the fashion media, but the example he sets to the public is a great one. The message from Fast’s runway was simply this – it is diversity and individuality that makes you beautiful.
“London Fashion Week is all about celebrating British BRILLIANCE, and All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is a chance to be proud of British BEAUTY. It’s a reminder that true style and glamour know NO BOUNDARIES.” Sarah Brown
‘All Walks Beyond the Catwalk’ is an ongoing campaign to raise awareness, educate and celebrate the beauty of individuality. For more information visit the official website at www.allwalks.org.
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BELLE MEMOIR
FRAGRANT JOURNEY Kirsty Armstrong, BELLE Editor, takes us on a short JOURNEY through scent, revealing some of the fragrances that will forever remain in her MEMORY…
F
or me, some of the most piercing memories come from my childhood. During this age of innocence, I encountered many new scents and smells for the first time, creating a link between the smell and the situation I found myself in. Without doubt, the most powerful memories that fragrance recalls for me are those of people and loved ones in my life. When little survives from your history and loved ones have passed away, buildings have been demolished and articles cease to exist, there is one thing that remains as vividly clear in your mind as the day you encountered it. This wonderful trigger of things past is a scent. A memory of fragrance may hide away in the back of your mind but never will it fade. On one unsuspecting day it will re-emerge bringing with it startlingly powerful emotion. A single drop of Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium, takes me right back to the days I spent wrapping myself up in my Grandmother’s collection of silk scarves, while I tottered around in her heels. The slightest aroma of Chanel No. 5 carries me swiftly back to the youthful years I spent in rehearsals, with my dance teacher, for performances in pantomimes and shows. The fresh, citrus notes of Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea, instil the memory of an embrace with my Mother after a, seemingly, ever-so-long day at primary school. The woody scent of tobacco is a comforting reminder of the days I spent cycling in the British countryside with my Father. As well of conjuring memories of other people, fragrance is
often an unquestionable reminder of myself as a youth. During my teenage years I was unfaithful to many scents, never quite happy with the perfume I wore, always on the lookout for a better contender for my affections. However, there were certain fragrances that made their mark on me and will be a constant reminder of varying degrees of my mischievous self. The punchy, zesty notes of Tommy Girl, by Tommy Hilfiger encapsulate the 13-year-old within me. Many a day did I drench myself in this sweet scent, seemingly unaware of the ‘less is more’ rule. As I progressed to College, the crispy, fresh notes of Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue caught my attention for a few years. During the latter years of my teenage life, I hopped from perfume to perfume and found myself wearing everything from Emporio Armani’s She, to Clinique Happy, to DKNY’s Be Delicious. Over recent years, however, I have come to settle at a favourite perfume. At this point in my life the sensual, deep, lingering floral notes of Stella by Stella McCartney perfectly represent the woman I am today. Passionate and determined, yet youthful and strong, a spritz of this delightful fragrance alters my mood. During the long, hot summer months, I’m a fan of Sheer by Stella McCartney, which is a slightly lighter, fresher version of the original scent and includes the addition of grapefruit notes. Although, for now, I’ve found my signature scent, I’m not averse to hunting down a breathtaking fragrances that may shape my memories still to come.
“When little survives from your history and loved ones have passed away, buildings have been demolished and articles cease to exist, there is one thing that remains as vividly clear in your mind as the day you first encountered it: a scent.”
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