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2011 FALL / WINTER COLLECTION
EST.1975 HUDSON MA.
ISSUE #11 SPRING / SUMMER 2012
CONTENTS Page 24
Page 80
Page 36
Page 102
Page 42
Page 106
Page 72
Page 108
WOMEN’S FASHION - “AFTER GLOW” MAKING THEIR MARK ARTIST FEATURE - RAIF ADELBERG ALWAYS BE PREPARED
MEN’S FASHION - “TON UP” CAPTURED BANK ON IT BANDTRACKER - MUSIC REVIEWS
Page 36
Page 42
Page 24
Page 106
The publisher, authors and contributors reserve their rights in regards to copyright of their work. No part of this work covered by the copyright may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means without the written consent of the publisher. © Know?Show 2011
ISSUE #11 SPRING / SUMMER 2012
MASTHEAD Editorial Directors Paul Higgins paul.megadestroyer.com André Paul Pinces pincesphoto.com Editor-in-Chief Perry Pugh perry@knowshow.ca Executive Editor Jeff Neickar Fashion Editor Tanus Lewis tanuslewis.com Production Controller Nick Brown lifetimecollective.com Advertising Director Perry Pugh perry@knowshow.ca
Contact Know?Mag 130 - 49 Dunlevy Avenue Vancouver BC, Canada V6B 4E3 www.knowmag.net / www.knowshow.ca info@knowshow.ca
“I did not become someone different, that I did not want to be. But I’m new here, will you show me around?” -GIl Scot Heron “I’m new here” The best thing about spring is the optimism that comes with the change that is impending. Though some years the warm weather does not arrive as soon as we wish, nothing can take away the optimism of coming changes that is born to all of us in the spring time. The greys and browns of the landscape will soon become blues and greens. Hours are quickly added to each day and much like hibernating animals we emerge from our houses to shed our winter layers, adopt lighter brighter colours and head out into our own personal wildernesses. Change was a big theme for the KNOW?SHOW this spring as we undertook quite a few major internal changes, and personally I took on a role working for our show full time. After 7 years working of working as a rep with the shops that make our show a success in the company of the brands and representatives that make it run, the chance to focus on a better show experience for all is something I was proud to take on. Where we did see major changes and improvements to our business, we were only able to make these due to a rock solid foundation in my business partners, and the wonderful and hardworking people we continue to work with. I know I am not alone, as many of our colleagues have moved on into different roles throughout our industry in a spring ripe with change. To those in a similar position as myself, I hope you are received with the support and warm wishes I personally saw. One thing that did not change was the exceptional job our creative team did in producing this tome representing KNOW?SHOW Spring 2012. Please enjoy this issue of the KNOW?MAG. Regards, Perry Pugh GM, KNOW?SHOW
The publisher, authors and contributors reserve their rights in regards to copyright of their work. No part of this work covered by the copyright may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means without the written consent of the publisher. © Know?Show 2011
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ISSUE #11 SPRING / SUMMER 2012
CONTRIBUTORS Daniel Curtis Daniel Curtis is an art director, traveler and skateboarder A few of his favorite things are 80s motocross, Helmut Newton, Paul Simon and Rushmore. www.danielcurtis.ca
Jesse Fox A self proclaimed leisure enthusiast/ visionary among other far fetched titles he fancies to associate himself with, Ian has been pursuing the ideal lifestyle of getting though life on wit, charm and a pinch of talent for some time now. www.ianazariah.com
Random facts about Jesse Fox: He’s never rolled up the rim to win anything. His parents took him to see the Grateful Dead at the age of 6. He isn’t known for being an exceptionally good lover or fighter. He hates when people say “Now, hold your horses.” He has been around the “Industry” for years, but people have no idea what he actually does.
Colin Adair
Mike Wilson
Ian Azariah
Colin Adair is a man of action. Action sports to be exact. After a long stint as photo editor at Snowboard Canada magazine he became the staff photographer for DC Snowboarding. In the off season he shoots for a variety of clients and publications. His work in this issue can be seen on page 72-79.
A former Winnipegger, Wilson currently resides in Calgary with his lovey wife and their handsome dog Strummer. He is acting Sales Manager & Western Canadian Sales Rep for Lifetime Collective. When you see him working hard at Know?Show feel free to buy him a Caesar.
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Jeff Nieckar Jeff Nieckar currently lives in Vancouver, B.C, where he divides his time between putting words together, keeping his heart from falling apart, degenerate internet gambling and asinine university studies. His favorite colour is Green.
Léa C. Kiefer Léa C. Kiefer is a freelance stylist working in Vancouver BC. She swings between obsessions including textiles, words, muses, venues, and culinary herbs. vwww.loveladylea.com
AFTER GLOW Fashion Editor Tanus Lewis Make-Up Artist Jenna Kuchera/Nobasura Hairstylist Natacha Trottier Models Kristy Jacobsen Nobasura Rad Kids Brennan Lloyd Richard’s Model Management
Photographed by AndrĂŠ Pinces
WESC tank B SWIM bikini bottom NATIVE shoes WeSC Bing Bang ring URANIUM bracelet
VITAMIN A bandeau bikini top ALTERNATIVE APPAREL leggings WESC Bing Bang bracelet and necklace URANIUM earring
BB DAKOTA white lace tank B SWIM bikini bottoms URANIUM necklace
Her: BODY GLOVE bikini top Him ALTERNATIVE APPAREL tank
LEVIS denim vest L SPACE monokini URANIUM necklace and earrings WESC Bing Bang ring
HER: VITAMIN A monokini LIFETIME denim shortalls WESC Bing Bang necklace and bracelet URANIUM earring HIM: ALTERNATIVE APPAREL tank and shorts URANIUM necklaces and bracelet
B SWIM bikini top and shorts URANIUM earrings and necklace WESC ring
SHOP PROFILE
MAKING THEIR MARK BRANDS ARE FIRMLY CEMENTING ROOTS AND GROWING BRAND AWARENESS BY SPRINGING UP IN LOCAL SHOPPING NEIGHBORHOODS AND CULTURALLY RICH DISTRICTS
WESC In September 2011, WeSc will be introducing its first concept store in Canada, located in Montreal. Currently, there are 28 other WeSC concept stores spread across Asia, Europe and the US. The goal of the new concept store is to be able to spread the brands message directly to the end consumer. “You get the opportunity to essentially create a brand showcase that’s open to public. If it is done properly, it creates an amazing tool for brand introductions to new consumers and reintroductions to existing” says Jesse Bowden, owner of Tiger Distribution. WeSc incorporates a solid blend of key marketing potential for the brand and focused consumer traffic when choosing their locations. The choice focuses in on each individual market and how WeSC as a brand sits there. Some markets might want a store to be off the beaten path in a more trendy ‘hood, while others might want to set up shop right in the mix. Bowden notes that, “We chose a high profile downtown location for the new Montreal store to really target the masses.” WeSc follows a global model for each store that is then slightly tweaked for each market to ensure the local flavor is there. The distributions own the stores except for the US & Swedish locations which are owned by WeSC directly. Bowden also says that, “The effect on our retailer base has been extremely positive. It’s massive for building brand awareness and becomes an amazing marketing vessel. The feedback we’ve had from the local community on the project thus far has been really positive. Always a good sign.” WesSC aim is to address like-minded people, who are awake and aware, regardless of race, religion or financial background. People within the Superlative Conspiracy share the values and lifestyle of the WeSC founders, who were all avid skateboarders, snowboarders and, above all, creative minds.
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SHOP PROFILE
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SHOP PROFILE
VANS Opening in 1999, OTH has become a cornerstone in the cultural and street-wear scene in Montreal. It is therefore not surprising that Vans chose OTH to be the first Vans Lifestyle Partner boutique in the world. The partnership will be part of a global initiative that Vans plans on establishing in New York and Paris as well. The partnership store with OTH in Montreal became appealing to Vans because it would allow them to tell their story of heritage and authenticity through the unique perspective of OTH. Located on the 3rd floor of the OTH complex, the VANS OTH shop opened up in May 2011. The opening party was blessed with oversize shoe sightings and a Tony Alva appearance that nonetheless declared it a Vans party. Having this partnership stores and the events that follow allow the two companies to introduce their consumer base to each other, and to showcase the lifestyle aspects of both the store and the brand. As Jason Good, Canadian sales manager for Vans says, “By sharing one another’s expertise and strengths, we are able to effectively communicate each others message to
a unique customer base. This partnership is also our first attempt at targeting the lifestyle channel of our business, aiming for top tier product to a consumer who might not know that this type of product is available from Vans.” Vans OTH will also be the first place to create customized Vans classics. Through appointments, customers will be able to choose their colors to create unique Vans footwear and have them delivered right to their doors. “I think the OTH partner store will have positive effect on our retailer base. The execution of the partnership store is only slightly different from what we have already achieved with many of our Skate, Snow and Surf accounts these past two years. There is no question that we need to continue to do a better job in telling our brand story to a larger consumer demographic. The Vans experience to date has shown that Visual Merchandising, Marketing and Event support are the most effective tools in supporting our retailers in all categories” adds Good.
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SHOP PROFILE
SITKA Sitka was established in 2002 by Andrew Paine and
Rene Gauthier. Since that time Sitka has grown from a surfboard line to include a full men’s and women’s clothing line and a skateboard line. The name Sitka derives from the mighty Sitka Spruce, a tree naturally drawn to the rugged shorelines of Western Canada; the company Sitka grew from the same endeavor. The West Coast Canadian environment that Sitka was born into and remains today, provides a captivating and engaging canvas from which the company draws inspiration. Sitka now has three locations, located at 1864 West 4th Ave. in Vancouver, 6 Osborne St., Newmarket in Auckland, NZ and their Victoria location, which is on the move to 570 Yates St., from down the block at 538 Yates St. Rene Gauthier says that, “The location we initially had the brand set up in (Clothing warehouse, office and surfboard manufacturing) lent itself well to a bit of retail in the front. We only had 5 wholesale accounts at the time. Since the beginning we’ve been doing both retail and wholesale.” When asked about the other locations Gauthier says that, “The Vancouver store was something people/customers/ friends had been begging us to do for a while. We caved. The NZ store was similar. A friend of ours really wanted to open a store there, so this gave us a place to start from in the southern hemisphere. A place not unlike Canada and the West coast. Very good fit for our aesthetic. It gives us a venue to properly showcase our whole brand and to do it in the way we want. It gives the end customer a full Sitka experience - something that is hard to achieve by simply wholesaling the brand. The effect on the retailer base has been positive. It seems to work well. Our retail and wholesale go hand in hand. They help each other even though retailers are sometimes apprehensive of a brand opening flagship stores in their area. But the majority of our large wholesale accounts are near our flagship stores. The stores have helped our wholesale business immensely.”
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SHOP PROFILE
STUSSY The Stussy brand has come along way since Shawn
Stussy began signing his name with a marker on his surfboards and printing T-shirts in the early 1980s. From surfwear to street-wear, hip hop, electronica or reggae, Stussy has continued to have their brand associated with various subcultures for the past twenty years. The popularity of the brand certainly reflects this idea, as support grows from others subcultures, including a more global culture, one that has become more prevalent since their humble ocean-side beginnings. With the expansion into a more eclectic culture comes the difficultly of positioning the brand, logistically and creatively, within the global environment. Yet Stussy has been able to set themselves right in the middle of emerging trends by opening several chapter locations across the globe. In 2008, Stussy opened two chapter stores in Canada, one in Vancouver and one in Toronto. Having the Toronto location on Richmond and Spadina, and the Vancouver store in Gastown, allows Stussy to be at the centre of each cities vibrant cultural districts. With that, the chapter locations can focus on local trends and events occurring within each city. Fraser Avey, the North American chapter retail director says that the main goal of having a dedicated retail location of the brand is “to create a unique representation for the brand, not only showcasing the season’s collection and special products, but supporting culture that is relevant to the brand through the chapters.” In fact all chapters are designed with these ideas in mind - to reflect the global as well as the local aspect of the brand. The construction of the Vancouver store incorporated only raw materials sourced within 100 km from the city. The fir that is featured through the entire store came directly from the Squamish Valley just 50 km north of Vancouver. The local aspect of the company also comes through in the designs with the ‘Stussy Canada’ collection of graphics and cut & sew created specifically for the Canada chapters. Stussy has a select retail distribution model, so the chapters act as more of a strategic partner to the retail base. Ultimately, the goal is for the chapters to be a window into the brand, to give the customers the opportunity to experience what the brand represents and to act as a touching point to Stussy through a retail environment.
VOLCOM
The goal of Volcom is to provide clothing to people who share our passion for art, music, film, skateboarding, surfing, snowboarding and motocross. Volcom is focused on supporting athletes, artists and musicians – providing a means for creative individuals to come together and collectively express themselves. This collaborative effort results in everything from the ever growing “Let the Kids Ride Free” contest series to the high-profile “Volcom Pipeline Pro” surf competition on down to an in-house independent record label – Volcom Entertainment. Volcom’s belief that “the only constant is change” defines a willingness to embrace the complexity and diversity that exists in the world and the ability to apply it to an overall creative output. This flexible outlook enables Volcom to take on many meanings and stay relevant on many levels. This flexible business model has led Volcom to open several brand direct retail outlets across the globe. Their first store opened in Los Angeles in 2002 and quickly stores started opening up across the world, including locations in Thailand, South Africa and France. Canada’s first Volcom Store opened officially on July 17th 2010. Located in Calgary in the Chinook Shopping Centre on the second level, the store takes advantage of the indoor shopping environment while targeting a wider demographic. Similarly, the store in Edmonton opened in West Edmonton Mall to take advantage of the mall’s size, popularity and huge consumer base. Jeff Roberts notes that the goal of these stores is to “present the full Volcom and Electric brands and experience, including all divisions and a majority of styles. Our licensee chose the locations based on sales volumes in the centers, and demand for Volcom product. We have very limited plans for added stores.” The stores are owned and operated by the retail licensee, VLCM Fashions, Inc.
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SHOP PROFILE
ALIFE In the past decade, Alife has quickly expanded as
a cultural icon. From the streetwise styles to sharp retail stores that resemble high end boutiques, Alife has built a brand that exemplifies a smart balance between accessibility and refined design. Alife has continued to strengthen their brand by collaborating with larger market brands. From the likes of Puma, Reebok and Timberland, shoe collaborations have allowed Alife to reach a larger market but still retain the artistic integrity of their brand. All the while, Alife has strived to express the downtown culture, to think of themselves in terms of the people, the artists and their creative vision that has made them successful. The global expansion of the Alife led to the opening of two flagship stores beyond New York. Their list of stores now include: Alife New York, Alife Vancouver, Alife Tokyo and The Rivington Club, all of which are owned by Alife. The Alife Vancouver shop, which opened in 2005, has a feel similar to that of their New York shops, with clean lines and minimalist design features. Gastown provided an excellent location to show off the brands fashionable downtownculture approach, as the district became increasingly occupied by high end clothing boutiques and trendy nightspots. Alife felt this was smart decision for them, as Vancouver’s influence within the global marketplace is being increasingly recognized. The company was also drawn to the city for logistical reasons, as both their footwear and apparel production offices are located in Vancouver. Tries Hill, GM of Alife notes that, “Our retail shops help to enhance our retailer base overall. Our events and special releases generate great excitement around Alife, increasing the demand for our brand and its products.” Alife Tokyo then opened in 2008 in Harajuku which was another ideal location for the brand, given the area is a cultural and fashion hotspot. This gave Alife a tremendous opportunities to establish the brand further overseas. “Having dedicated retail spaces helps to give our brand partners a clear understanding of what Alife represents, which is a primary reason we have had the opportunity to work with so many successful brands and artists. It gives us the ability to control and maintain the brands direction and vision” adds Hill. Along with the unique retail stores and artistic ideology, Alife focuses on the merchandising aspect with a similar amount of care. Hill says, “We are meticulous about merchandising: from the way our shoes are laced, to the folds we use on fleece, to the hangers on which we display our tees. We’re able to determine when goods will be marked down, and test specific styles prior to introducing them to the public through wholesale distribution channels.” It is not hard to see that Alife has positioned themselves in both a business and cultural niche that cannot be replicated, that is highly respected and undoubtedly successful. The addition of brand direct stores have only solidified their cultural relevance, bringing them closer to the consumer, the community, and the culture from which they derive their inspiration.
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
RAIF Written by Jeff Nieckar
Interview by AndrĂŠ Paul Pinces
Over the years, Raif Adelberg has worked diligently in the fashion industry and art world to create something that he felt would set him apart and built an ethos that is powerfully subversive and ironically contradictory. His work embodies contradiction plainly, if one thinks for a minute about his focus on luxury street wear or pop art. So how does a man become so successful by working with seemingly impossible elements? Well, he stands in the middle of them. He visualizes mediums that bring these opposites together, takes the good and leaves the bad, makes it his own, and then says fuck you, but I love you.
Photo: PincĂŠs
ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
Raif Adelberg was born in 1968 in Winnipeg, Manitoba. His family moved to Vancouver in 1974 and thus began Raif’s education into art and fashion. His father, Gordon, had spent a lifetime in the clothing industry, working in the manufacturing business and owning agencies. His mother, Michelle, who was into the art scene, took a young Raif to several exhibitions and openings, exposing him to a variety of people and visual culture. He got into the skateboard scene in Vancouver at a young age, and met people that are still in his life today. When Raif was fourteen, his family moved to Hawaii after some financial trouble involving his father. Raif says, “My father made millions and spent millions. He was a gambler so I grew up around the racehorses, we were at the track all the time.” After moving to Hawaii, Raif decided to drop high school so he could spend his days skating and surfing. At 15, he started customizing his clothes with paint and screen prints. “The 80s were a very experimental time, I think people started creating many of the styles that are relevant today. But in the 80s you went and bought your pieces, you put it together and created your style. It was about creating at that point. Then companies became surf companies, skate companies or hip-hop companies and created a style for that company, even though it was the individuals that were creating the style by going out and buying unique things that made us individuals.” Style, for Raif, became a way to express individuality. But, it also had to be done right, in Raif’s view, as he explains, “The thing with style is, the guy who creates a style that is true to the individual and an extension of themselves has amazing style. The people who try to buy style can’t. It just comes together all wrong because it doesn’t even suit them - it doesn’t even look like them.” At that time, the commodification of cool wasn’t as expansive as it is today, but he remembers exactly what was trending in those days. “You had your Chucks or Jordans and you’d take paint, and you’d splash them up, you had German army pants and Bundeswehr white tank tops. You couldn’t go into a department store and buy camo. I mean, you probably could but it would be horrendous. The only thing we got at department stores was maybe 501‘s,” remembers Adelberg. Eventually the family moved to Palm Springs where Raif entered cosmetology school, much to the chagrin of his father.
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
When he turned 20, Raif went to his father and asked him for money to open a clothing store. Gordon thought his son had gone crazy. This didn’t stop Raif however, and he found a way, despite his family’s lack of support, to open his first store. Located on Palm Canyon Drive in Palm Springs, The Edge was a hair salon and clothing store. “I subleased the space to these three bodybuilder girls that had a hair salon called Menage e Trois,” says Adelberg. “There weren’t many places around there for young people to shop.” Opened in 1989, The Edge successfully carried brands such as Big Star Jeans, Think Tank, Chrome Hearts and Cafe Clothing. In 1992, Raif went back to Vancouver and started exploring other opportunities in the clothing industry. After a few years of doing odd jobs and taking on a new role as a father, he opened a store on West 4th in Vancouver called Twentyfour. During this time, Raif also started up Made Magazine with the help of Patrick Andersson, an Art History Professor from Emily Carr School of Art, along with several other artists and friends. Raif explains that the magazine began “because I was looking for a way to get advertising for us, but the places to get advertising were so expensive that I thought I must be able to make my own magazine for these prices.” The magazine provided a platform for the artists Adelberg was bringing to Canada, exposing them to new markets. Made Magazine went on to sell in museums and galleries around the world. In conjunction with the magazine, Made Gallery was opened and Raif brought international artists like Kaws, Ryan McGinness, Kostas and Futura to Vancouver for the first time. Upon the success of Twentyfour and the gallery, Raif opened another store in Yaletown, where he started designing products to carry in the store. The shop was unlike anything in Vancouver or Canada for that matter. “There were only a few places in the world that were doing anything like this,” says Adelberg. The shop featured similar aesthetics and merchandising to KBond and Union in Los Angeles. It was one of only ten stores in North America to have a Nike LE account. Twentyfour also carried a little known brand at the time, Supreme, and Raif discovered that the place where they made their sweatshirts was located in Vancouver. He met with the manufacturers and started his own clothing collections called Popular and Substance. “Those lines did okay, but really they didn’t perform the way we wanted them to,” says Raif.
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
RICHARD KIDD Twentyfour shut down in 2001 in favour
of Adelberg’s new creation, the renowned Richard Kidd shop on Water Street in Vancouver. “There were a lot of stores looking like Twenty Four popping up all over the world, like street brand stores, and I was kind of getting burnt out on it. I wanted to do something that felt a bit more mature. Coming into the store should feel just like coming into my home. You’d come in there and see everything that was hand picked by me” Raif says. Richard Kidd carried collections from Margiela, Commes des Garcons, Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga and other high end fashions including Adelberg’s own. Richard Kidd was a place for Adelberg to showcase the best brands in the world and to expose customers in Vancouver to these highly sought after collections for the first time. After a few years, the business workings of Richard Kidd became precarious. Vancouver’s tastes simply weren’t yet in line with Richard Kidd’s stock. In addition, the lease on the space was coming up, and the price to stay at the coveted Water Street location nearly doubled. The decision was made to close the store and regroup. After closing, Raif found it was a good time to get back in the luxury goods market, and quickly put a collection together that he took to New York to show the buyers of Bergdorf Goodman and Nick Wooster. They were impressed
with what he had come up with and interest carried over to the places where Adelberg began showing the collection. Currently Raif is getting ready for a trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman in September, during Ladies Fashion Week, and working on his Spring/Summer 2012 line. It is clear that Raif Adelberg is a busy man. He’s consistently keeping ahead of the trends by defining them and is never short of inspiration. His history shows a deeply rooted passion for art and fashion, of expression and creativity. “Everything you do isn’t going to be perfect, but if you do something that at the end of the day you can stand behind, it’s rewarding. I hear so many ideas that are out there but people who actually try to go out there and make these ideas tangible or a reality are few and far between. If you look back over the history of what I’ve done, and how its changed over time, I’ve never kept things the same. I’ve never waited out a trend long enough to capitalize on it. When I was younger, I was angry, I thought people didn’t understand what I was trying to do. They’d all finally understand what I was doing only after I was on to something else. I was blaming everyone else, but I finally realized it was me. I didn’t want to be part of the herd. So when something became popular, I didn’t want to be a part of that, I wanted to separate from the masses. I made a choice to always try to stay in the forefront.”
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
The Dead Boys Clubhouse collection pays homage to the pop/punk scene of the late 70s and early 80s, while it simultaneously re-describes the aesthetic through an American experience. The collection borrows the name from American punk band The Dead Boys who played frequently at CBGB’s in the late 70s. It is a reinvigoration of the bratty, anti-establishment attitude that was prevalent during the explosion of the punk scene. Patriotic colors run through the clothing collection and collage pieces producing a flavour unique to Raif’s take on street culture. The Dead Boys Clubhouse offer a modern perspective to a familiar style made famous by fashionistas such as Malcolm McClaren and Vivienne Westwood.
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
CAN YOU NOTSEE was first shown at the Back Gallery Project in Vancouver in May 2008. The collection is a statement about the influences of pop culture, particularly iconography, and how it subsequently shapes individuals into who they are. The pieces are reminiscent of Jasper Johns, as the use of iconic symbols are embedded throughout the work. The title ‘Can You NotSee’ is suggestive not only in word play, but also an invitation in asking the viewer to participate in the work. Adelberg’s work enlists his audience to be aware of their own participation in the dominant culture and stylistically rejects those forces in favour of a unique identity. The work lends itself to an appreciation from a large audience, as the icons are easily identifiable and the minimal palette visually approachable. But once Adelberg’s message becomes discernible, the viewer is drawn in to the absurdity - where cultural icons act as a measure of our individuality.
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
All I Have Are My Dreams Adelberg’s
photographic exhibition All I Have Are My Dreams opened in London at the Doyle Devere gallery in November 2009, then went on to be featured at HVW8 and American Rag Cie in Los Angeles in 2010. The exhibition features photographs of men and women draped in American flags, faces painted to resemble clowns. On closer inspection however, the clown paint conjures associations with cultural iconography that demands a deeper emotional response. In one image we see a beautiful young woman with wildly crimped hair, wearing what appears to be Ronald McDonald inspired face paint, coyly giving us a fuck you with her middle finger. In another, we see models with more ‘Day of the Dead’ type paint on their fair skin. It feels as though this collection is speaking of America’s blatant commodification of culture through a stylistic language that is both enticing and subversive.
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ARTIST PROFILE - RAIF ADELBERG
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ALWAYS BE PREPARED
Fashion Editor Tanus Lewis Art Director Daniel Curtis
Photographed by Colin Adair
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT skateboard/COMMONWEALTH STACKS, trucks/INDEPENDENT, wheels/BONES, denim shorts with belt/MATIX, wallet/ALTAMONT, backpack/INCASE, t-shirt/WeSC, black shoes/CIRCA, socks/EMERICA, hat/THE QUIET LIFE, mesh shoes/DVS, sweatshirt/ASHBURY, beanie/ASHBURY
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: plaid shirt/ALTAMONT, aviators/VESTAL, men’s shoes/POINTER, woman’s anorak/LIFETIME, watch/VESTAL, bikini top/ANNE COLE, skirt/JACK , woman’s shoes/POINTER, backpack/LIFETIME, drinking socks/EMERICA, orange socks/CIRCA, beer cozy/KEN DIAMOND, shorts/COMMUNE, belt/MATIX
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: scarf/C’EST MOI , ring/WESC, hat/BRIXTON, necklaces/LIFETIME, purple frame sunglasses/VESTAL, denim jacket/COMMUNE, t-shirt/MATIX, footless tights/ C’EST MOI, leather bag with tassles/ALTERNATIVE APPAREL, tortoiseshell sunglasses/ASHBURY, shorts/COMMUNE, braided belt/LIFETIME, bikini top/BENCH SPORT, moccasins/KEN DIAMOND FOR LIFETIME
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Espadrilles/NATIVE, Canvas bag/ALTERNATIVE APPAREL, Beach towel/BENCH SPORT, Bikini top/BENCH SPORT, Denim shorts /!IT JEANS, Sandals/Etnies, Earbuds/URBAN EARS, shirt/ALTAMONT, tank/MATIX, sunglasses/CHOCOLATE, Shorts/COMMUNE
TON UP! Fashion Editor Tanus Lewis Grooming Dustin Fishbook - The Belmont Barbershop Models Luke Uri and Angus Boynton-McNeilly
Photographed by AndrĂŠ Pinces
ALTERNATIVE APPAREL t-shirt MATIX jeans
Angus: ALTAMONT shirt, ALTERNATIVE APPAREL t-shirt, ALTAMONT pants Luke: SCIFEN sweatshirt, LEVI’S denim
Luke: ALTERNATIVE APPAREL t-shirt, LEVI’S, 501 denim, LIFETIME x KEN DIAMOND belt, ASHBURY sunglasses Angus: ALTERNATIVE APPAREL t-shirt, LEVI’S 511 denim, LIFETIME belt LOSER MACHINE helmet seen in background
LIFETIME x KEN DIAMOND belt and wallet chain
Angus: WESC denim coveralls, ASHBURY sunglasses Luke: LIFETIME shirt, LEVI’S denim, HILLSIDE tie from MR. LEE’S
Angus: LEVI’S denim shirt, iT! JEANS denim, aviators from MR. LEE’S
Luke: LIFETIME shirt and jacket
ALTERNATIVE APPAREL t-shirt
WESC denim coveralls and shirt
Angus: iT! JEANS denim, LIFETIME belt Luke: MATIX denim
LEVI’S denim shirt, iT! JEANS denim, LIFETIME belt, sunglasses from MR. LEE’S
Angus: LEVI’S denim shirt, iT! JEANS denim, LIFETIME belt, sunglasses from MR. LEE’S Luke: ALTERNATIVE APPAREL t-shirt, MATIX denim, ASHBURY sunglasses, LOSER MACHINE helmet
LEVI’S jacket
CAPTURED - PHOTO FEATURE
CAPTURED
My favourite pastime is exploration by foot. Whether business or personal I fit in as much time as I can during my travels. Most often these sacred moments with a city or location are kept intimate by exploring alone. A trusty camera and not always taking the quickest route from A to B. Joyfully lost in one of my favourite cities. Hong Kong, 2007. Kenta Goto Vancouver, BC www.write-left.com
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CAPTURED - PHOTO FEATURE
In the early hours one winter night I decided to shoot some photos of the flakes falling on the Westend. This couple in the background stopped, faced each other and said a very proper good night. By chance I caught him leaning toward her to capture this sweetest good night kiss. It reminds me of a lyric from a song by The XX, “...losing where I end and you begin�. Sarah Cameron Vancouver, BC www.sarahacameron.tumblr.com
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CAPTURED - PHOTO FEATURE
See more of Paul107 at his show Sometimes I Take The Pictures at Catalog Gallery (100-56 Powell Street) Show opens with a superlative vernissage on August 18th from 7pm to 9pm and runs from August 18th to September 4th , 2011. Paul 107 Montreal, Canada www.paullabonte.com
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CAPTURED - PHOTO FEATURE
About a year ago I had just gotten to Vancouver keen to move into the city, at the time I was jobless and couch surfing and hitting wreck everyday till I found a place to call mine. This was just a snap of my friend Ben mellowing out after a day at the beach. The story is all in the details. Ian Azariah Vancouver, BC www.ianazariah.com
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SHOP PROFILE
BANK ON IT Written by Jennifer Chiu
THE DENIM GALLERY CAFE IS MICHEL MENARD’S LATEST VENTURE IN A LONG TIME LOVE AFFAIR WITH WHAT HE CALLS, “THE FABRIC OF THE CENTURY”.
Situated in the historic Bank of Montreal building at 906 Main Street, the Denim Gallery Cafe will offer its patrons a unique experience that will encompass them in a crossroads of history, fashion and concept. Having made a name for himself as the ‘Denim Guru’ of Western Canada with his eponymous fashion agency, Menard Agency, Michel has procured the experience and the passion that is necessary to remain inventive in his industry. Known for being the first to introduce boutique denim lines such a Acne, Nudie, EDWIN and Filippa K to Vancouver and aiding them in building their brands here on the West Coast, Menard has earned his title over the years. A lover of vintage finds and a champion of histories, Menard showed me around his new shop, excitedly recounting the stories behind each of his brands and many of the decorative pieces that adorn his store. From the beautiful, vintage wooden display case that now houses his Ray Ban selection to his large and eclectic library of magazines and books (which he invites all his visitors to enjoy), the things that Menard surrounds himself with all have a story. The Denim Gallery Cafe website features biographies of each of its brands and includes within each, a delightful selection of commercials that have been crucial in defining the culture and the mythology of each label. It is context that Menard seeks so it should come as no surprise that he chose one of the most historic of Vancouver’s buildings in the most storied of Vancouver’s neighbourhoods to house his new venture. Menard describes how the story of the Denim Gallery Cafe began. It was at Dim Sum, at the now defunct Pink Pearl Cafe, when he announced to his two daughters some eight years ago that he would one day purchase the old and empty Bank of Montreal Building at the corner of Main Street and Prior. The neighbourhood is undergoing a profound
transformation but its importance as the historical site of Vancouver’s Black community, and the violence and disrepair that has been its hallmark for so many years, keeps its residents and its business owners mindful of the space they inhabit. Menard has owned the building since 2006 and has used it as his headquarters for Menard Agency. The idea for his store came about because he felt that “the fun had been taken out of retail”, and he was going to reintroduce it. Armed with a restaurant license for outdoor seating, an espresso machine, and access to some of the most iconic and recognizable brands in streetwear, he is setting out to recreate the social shopping experience that he feels both consumers and retailers have forgotten. Carrying a curated and limited number of brands (Timex, Ray Ban, Converse, Herschel, Landyachtz and Levis) the store’s sartorial ideology is clear: classic, iconic and accessible. Menard’s personal affinity for these labels (he has been wearing most of them for the last 20 years) is their timelessness. As an individual whose business it is to proliferate trend, he has witnessed the tremendous shift in streetwear over the last decade towards classic menswear basics and exclusive, handmade goods. This shift in consumer values has deeply informed his concept for DGC but his approach will differ from other retailers because he intends to offer the values of quality and timelessness without the mire of exclusivity, making affordability a key component to his game plan. Michel Menard has chosen his timing well; Main Street has seen the tides of wealth and culture rise and rescind over the last 100 years and is undoubtedly on its way to high tide again. With his passion and his infectious enthusiasm, Menard and his Denim Gallery Cafe will certainly ride this wave of change to the end.
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SHOP PROFILE
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MUSIC REVIEWS
BANDTRACKER WE SENT OUT OUR SIDEKICKS TO HUNT DOWN AND CAPTURE THEIR PREY, TESTING THEIR SURVIVAL SKILLS AND BRAVING THE RUGGED WILDERNESS OF SOUND
BRAIDS – Native Speaker (2011 Kanine Records) Native Speaker inspired me to turn on the iTunes Visualizer experience for the first time since I brought home my iBook 3G Clamshell back in ’99. I wanted to see how a digital Maestro would conduct the highs and lows of their complex, dream-pop, orchestra. At times the jam-like layers of sounds, loops, keys and guitars made me picture millions of Jet Balls being hurled through a downward sloping concrete maze. At others, a long 3 am drive, getting lost in a strange city, or a long layover in a crowed airport seems like appropriate companions for this listen. Little too trippy for you? Alright, don’t over think it. BRAIDS gelled in a Calgary high school where two boys met two girls who were equally talented musically with styles uniquely complimentary. After graduating they migrated to musical promise land of Montreal. With increasing underground expectation they released this album, Native Speaker, earlier this year. For fans of Animal Collective and Broken Social Scene’s beginnings, this album is a lay-up recommendation. It is sold instantly off the opener, “Lemonade”, and carries through all seven tracks. Although I’ve painted a picture of beautiful musical chaos, there are two clear driving forces that carry this bands greatness - the drum score of Austin Tuffs, and the vocal power of Katie Lee. I have a feeling this sleeper-hit, grower album, will be generating plenty of plays and remixes as another summer of love rolls on. Rating: 3.5 / 5 - Jesse Fox
Chilly Gonzales - The Unspeakable Chilly Gonzales (2011 Arts and Crafts Records) I may have spent most of my time listening to Chilly Gonzales latest album, The Unspeakable, with a sort of smirk on my face. Comical rhymes consume the entire album with partially convincible debates and are sure to confirm Chilly’s poetic skill. His intriguing pianist ability exudes calming chords, while representing thoughtful techniques. Although the album is steadily ranty with skepticism that bleeds through every rest and gracious scale, this journal-esque piece may be more suitable for the ponderer who yearns an evening of wordy amusement. In Gonzales’ song titled “Beans”, a lyrical trail of quirky ‘nonsensical’ words speak, “I’m not a has-been, but I has beans, and that means, being bean-less is a bad dream”. In “Shut Up and Play the Piano”, he converses with his instrument of choice, bantering self-analysis that sounds like you’re lending an ear to his personal crisis - career choice included. He continues to challenge his listeners to debate where the roots and morale of his artistry lie. Part of The Unspeakable’s entertainment is due to his every phrase in which he immediately contradicts. Chilly Gonzales remains successful in his confidence and finger-stretching skills, but perhaps he should save the justification and keep it to the keys.. Rating: 3 / 5 - Léa C. Kiefer
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MUSIC REVIEWS
Stars – The Bedroom Demos (2011 Arts and Crafts Records) Is bigger better? Stars have been known for their larger than life songs that draw out the simplicities and complexities of love. The Bedroom Demos presents all the same building anthems listed in their third full-length effort, In Our Bedroom After the War, but stripped down and in their original underproduced state. The renditions on Demos are wholly refreshing at times, and then come out uninspiring at others. The muted renditions don’t nail that less is more feeling we love from say, XX, and leaves you wanting more of what Stars are known for, which is making the big sound bigger. Front man Torquil Campbell’s built for Broadway voice comes in at a 6 on this album, where on After the War it hits you in cheap seats like a hard 10. For fans, The Bedroom Demos is another must-have collection piece that will spark flashbacks from the better days you had in 2007. For those out on Stars, the Demos won’t make that mafia like connection that relentlessly pulls you back in. Chad VanGaalen-Diaper Island
Rating: 2.5 / 5 - Jesse Fox
(Flemish Eye/Sub Pop)
Calgary’s native son Chad VanGaalen is a true multitalented musical genius. With an extremely laid back touring schedule he prefers to let his records speak for themselves. On his fourth full length studio release, Diaper Island, he does just this. The album is a stripped down approach compared to previous efforts, delivering his most focused and cohesive collection of songs to date. The opening track “Do Not Fear” starts things off strong with anthem like tendencies, and frantic straight ahead rock numbers “Replace Me” and “Burning Photographs” chug along somehow sitting comfortably beside the subdued beauty of “Sara”, “Peace on the Rise” and “No Panic/No Heat”. Token CVG quirkiness is found later in the album on “Can You Believe it!?” and “Shave My Pussy” where Chad’s shaky voice is accompanied by the soft background strum of a ukulele. Check out Lifetime Collective’s latest Video Zine for a feature interview with Chad down by the river in Cowtown. www.lifetimecollective.com/video.php Rating: 4 / 5 - Mike Wilson
We Are Augustines – Rise Ye Sunken Ships (Ox Cart Records) When an indie band releases one great album then throws in the towel it’s tragic, but just in a “I burnt the popcorn” kind of way. In 2007 the band Pela released the album Anytown Graffiti which landed on over 35 acclaimed “Best Of” lists (and came in #1 on my personal list) for the year, yet still slipped through the cracks of play lists everywhere. Citing countless issues, both personal and professional, the band that was destined for more, suddenly had nothing left to give. Singer-songwriter Billy McCarthy and Eric Sanderson made up half of the bands former life and thankfully picked up the pieces and labeled themselves Augustines. Now, with Broken Social Scene’s producer David Newfeld at the helm of Rise Ye Sunken Ships anthem track, “Book of James”, it couldn’t be a more fitting complement to the body of work McCarthy has put forth with this new endeavor. Although powered by subjectively dark histories, there is a predominate peacefulness throughout the songs on this album. Like Pela, We Are Augustines’ music hits lyrically as strong as it sounds musically - a combination McCarthy’s fan base feasts upon. Lets hope that the newly risen ship the Augustines now sail, sees the recognition and long history their music deserves. Rating: 4 / 5 - Jesse Fox
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