ISSUE 01 // MARCH 2020
W I L D T R AV ER SE
ADVENTURES FROM SOUTH AFRICA ICELAND SLOVENIA FLORIDA PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Image by Kyle Ledeboer
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
One of the best things about being in the Outdoor Industry is inspiring others to explore everything from their backyards to regions far and wide. This spirit started in college for me. I chose Montana State University because the local ski hill was 20 minutes away and the school itself was nested between a variety of mountain ranges. I knew going there would make it impossible to avoid
Issue 01 is a collaboration between six adventure brands:
the call of the outdoors. What I loved most about the community there was that no one cared about your experience level, as long as you were headed into the mountains. This couldn’t be more true than when the ski lifts at Bridger Bowl started running. As the lone
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snowboarder in a large group of skiers, it’s easy
weekend. We would like to invite you to chart
to be a castaway. But not there. As long as you
your own adventures, spark new memories in
were on the mountain and itching to go the
the wilderness, and commit to protecting the
second the lift lines opened, you were accepted
outdoor spaces we all love so much.
into the community. This vibrant community introduced me to new sports, paving the way to
As is our motto for Kokopelli, the journey is the
joining a packrafting company down the road.
source of true happiness, not the destination. We hope this magazine inspires your next
That community spirit is what helped spearhead
journey.
WILD TRAVERSE. Sincerely, This magazine is here to inspire you to delve
Alexandra Black-Paulick
deeper, explore longer, and experience
Marketing Director
destinations like never before. It doesn’t matter
Kokopelli
if you’ve been spearheading epic adventures for decades or you’re going on your first paddle this 3
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
PAGE 2
BIKERAFTING WEKIVA STATE PARK
PAGE 6
GEAR GUIDE: BIKERAFTING
PAGE 16
PACKRAFTING THE ORANGE RIVER
PAGE 20
LEAVE NO TRACE
PAGE 30
ATHLETE PROFILE: ANNIKA SEIDL
PAGE 36
EXPLORING SOČA VALLEY’S EMERALD WATERS
PAGE 42
GEAR GUIDE: DAY HIKES
PAGE 52
8,000 MILES LATER: NO LONGER NOVICES
PAGE 56
THE MARKARFLJÓT RIVER SOURCE-TO-SEA
PAGE 68
GEAR GUIDE: MULTI-DAY WHITEWATER
PAGE 78
SUBSCRIBE FOR FUTURE ISSUES
PAGE 81
BEHIND THE COVERS
Joey Schusler skillfully captures the rugged mysticism of Iceland with his most recent adventure with two longtime travel companions. Charting their own path, the three explorers set out into the unknown terrain in pursuit finding the source of the Markarfljรณt River and following it to the coast of the Atlantic in Southern Iceland. See the full trip report in The Markarfljรณt River Source-to-Sea on page 68.
DOWNLOAD MAGAZ I N E P DF
Graphic Design by Lizzi Bradley
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BIKERAFTING WEKIVA STATE PARK
As kids growing up in Florida, my friends and I spent hazy summer days paddling along its murky rivers and dipping into the cool spring waters, which always remain at a blessed 72 degrees. We passed winters lounging on docks in warm jackets with our feet dangling over chilly, dark lakes. Water connects Floridians, with each other and with the nature around us. The state is one massive
Florida, USA
landmass, buoyed just above the water table by pockmarked limestone. Bad storms are almost
Written by Abby Scott Images by David Childers
always a blessing in disguise, at first bringing floods, ripping up trees, and causing even worse traffic but also simultaneously replenishing and refueling a sensitive yet resilient ecosystem. Floridians don’t much mind weathering a few storms. After living in the desert for years, my roots longed for a drink of the sunshine state’s tea-colored waters and thankfully this fall, I received the chance to packraft a beloved childhood summer swimming hole - Wekiva Springs. As a kid, I loved swimming in Wekiva’s crystal clear water. End of the year parties took place under cabanas and, after filling up on watermelon and potato chips, we sprinted towards the natural pool, goggles in hand ready to explore a new world just below the surface.
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I presumed that Wekiva Springs would
reaches maximum occupancy before the first
present differently to the adult version of
mosquito wakes up. We didn’t plan on lingering
me — its water less sparkly, probably packed
too long in the main spring but instead we
with sunburnt tourists bobbing up and down
wanted to get away from the crowds and
in inner tubes. But, to my surprise, when I
packraft the calm, meandering Wekiva River.
returned for the first time this fall, it wasn’t any less magical than it had been in my memories.
The headwaters of the Wekiva River begin
In fact, the lily pads looked greener, the water
at the confluence of Wekiva Spring Run and
was more turquoise, and wildlife abounded. I
Rock Springs Run, an integral flow-way in
suddenly appreciated it a thousand times more
the Wekiva River system. Clear spring water
than when I was eleven. It’s true, you really
bubbles up from a natural limestone aquifer
don’t know what you have until it’s gone.
and courses through state-owned scrub forests until it joins flowing water from Wekiva
Wekiva is a world apart from its suburban
Springs. In 2000, the US Congress designed
surroundings. The spring attracts visitors,
the Wekiva River as a “National Wild and
tourists, and locals year-round with summer-
Scenic River” — its ecosystem boasts five
time as its peak season — the state park often
“Outstandingly Remarkable Values” including 7
water quality, cultural resources, and wildlife
bow. Gingerly carrying our rigs to the water’s
habitat. Because of this designation, the
edge, conversation about the possibility of
waterway has been and will be protected in
gator sightings flowed nervously between us.
perpetuity so that it may continue to resemble
We strapped our PFDs on and launched into
what the state’s indigenous tribes experienced
the narrow channel of the flow-way. Within
centuries ago.
100 yards, we hit a fork in the river and turned left to continue downstream. The river was
The Rock Springs Run is gentle enough to bring
flowing slowly, at an estimated 1 mph, so we
a bike and its packed-dirt trails link various
let our paddles rest as we scanned for native
take out points with main roads, making it
birds amongst the lush foliage lining the river’s
the perfect place for a bikerafting day trip. My
natural banks.
packrafting partner is also a native Floridian and we both craved a way to experience our
The first stretch of the run passes along the
home state’s wetland ecosystem and diverse,
backyards of Florida bungalows, precariously
canopied forests — bikerafting more than fit the
placed at sea level and prone to flooding should
bill.
a torrential downpour arrive. Earth-toned homes blended in with the background while
Our packrafting crew - consisting of Andrew,
colorful cottages popped out from the greenery.
David, Emily, and myself - parked at King’s
The next few miles gave way to a beautiful
Landing, a local canoe and kayak rental shop
narrow channel that drifted lazily through bald
nine miles up from the usual take out, a local,
cypress, cabbage palms, and hickory trees.
riverside watering hole and hang out, Wekiva Island. The October weather was perfect
At around the two-mile mark, we came round
— overcast and cool with no storms on the
the bend and spotted a 5-foot gator slithering
horizon, meaning we’d have plenty of time to go
from the bank into the carmel water, never to
slow along the Rock Springs Run.
be seen again, or so we hoped. On sunny days, paddlers may spy alligators along this stretch of
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After each inflating our XPD and Rogue-lite
river, perched on logs and sprawled on beaches
packrafts, we removed the front tires of our
gathering rays. They keep to themselves and are
bikes and strapped the entire set up to the
more scared of humans than we are of them.
Paddlers are wearing Type V USCG approved MTI inflatable belt-pack PFDs. Always paddle with proper safety gear. 9
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Certain sections of the float were shallow and clogged with gnarled branches and downed trees, making the paddle even more prehistoric and adventuresome. Fortunately, the durable material of the XPD allowed us to bump over roots, logs, and shallow bottoms, so Emily
In the past six months, I have packrafted in 20 states, internationally, and in every type
and I paddled ahead to scout for Andrew and
of condition. The Pelican R40 Ruck
David’s lighter-weight Rogue-lites. At certain
Case has endured paddling trips
points along Rock Springs Run, the water clears up and paddlers can see clear to its sandy bottom. We pulled off and waded in, our senses completely immersed in the natural surroundings.
through the jungle, everglades, open ocean, desert slot canyons, alpine lakes, snow, and whitewater rivers. It’s the best small case to protect your equipment from the
We hopped back in our packrafts and passed fellow paddlers fishing for the day’s catch under water-logged branches or in collections of pennywort. As we neared the take out, we
elements and it fits perfectly in my carry on luggage.
- ANDREW DURAN
came upon a tall sabal palm, growing sideways
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from the shore and creating the perfect bridge for us to pass under. It was a lovely salute to a beautiful day on the water.
FEATURED PRODUCTS RKT 9 RDO Kokopelli Rogue-lite and XPD
We pulled up to Big Buck campsite and took out our packrafts. We quickly unstrapped our bikes, easily reassembling them. After
Grayl GeoPress™️ Purifier Pelican R40 Ruck Case Topo Designs Tech Shirt and River Shorts Chaco Men’s Torrent Pro Cross Trainer
rolling our packrafts and strapping them on the handlebars, we peddled up the sandy path towards the main trail. The next five miles varied from a hard-packed, narrow dirt trail to sandy, wide pathways, each easy to peddle. Florida’s twisted live oaks and sturdy cabbage palms created a thick patchwork of foliage and was disorienting at times. It’s easy to get lost in the flat, dense Florida forest. Wekiva’s trail system is well marked and the lack of hills were a blessed reprieve from our normal western biking excursions. After an hour’s ride we ended up at our destination, Wekiva Island.
David Childers is a professional photographer who loves creating stories with his images. He lives in Orlando, FL with his wife Evan who's a pastry chef at Walt Disney World.
@DChildersPhoto Exploring the Wekiva River river system gave me a taste of what Florida was like before settlers arrived — wild and remarkable, a balance between chaos and mother nature’s grand design. Florida’s visitors and residents alike may experience the state’s myriad inland waterways and wild, exotic landscape from the seat of a packraft. Throw it in the trunk or pack it in your carry on to get the gift of unbridled access to a land born from the belly of the swamp, resilient and resistant despite rapid change, waiting to take back what rightfully belongs to it.
Abby Scott enjoys crafting captivating stories to inspire fellow readers to chart their own adventures outside. She currently lives full time out of her van, giving her the freedom to explore the most remote and stunning locations.
@AbbyLouScott 13
COMMITTED TO DIRT
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#COMMITTEDTODIRT
At Niner, we are #CommittedtoDirt. Our commitment to dirt encompasses every interpretation of the word “dirt.” We are committed to building bikes that make your ride on dirt better, and we back them up with the best service available. We are committed to giving everyone more places to ride on the dirt, by advocating for trails. We are committed to minding the gritty details. And we’re committed to experiencing the natural world in as many ways as possible.
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GEAR GUIDE
BIKERAFTING
Niner SIR 9 Rugged, reliable, and comfortable, this steel bike is designed to last and not let you down.
Topo Designs River Shorts
Chaco Torrent Pro
Kokopelli Rogue Spraydeck
Look good in and out of the water with a fit that’s as at home on the beach, the mountains, or paddling the nearby lakes.
This cross trainer provides serious grip, closed-toe protection, and quick drainage.
An award-winning lightweight packraft designed with multi-sport adventures in mind.
Werner Shuna Paddle A touring paddle designed for those who want mid-sized power for strokes in all directions.
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Combining your two favorite sports has never been easier.
Niner Defiant Top Tube Bento Bag Go strapless with this custom-made top tube Bento Bag, designed to carry everything from that tall boy beer to snacks.
Topo Designs Global Jacket
Pelican R40 Personal Utility Ruck Case
Roll up this waterproof jacket for a compact, yet versatile travel coat.
Store your gear in a crushproof, dustproof and adventure-proof case.
RockyMounts MonoRail Platform Hitch
Bivy Stick Satellite Communicator
Make getting to the trailhead easy with this two-bike carrier. With a weight carrying capacity of 60 lbs., it’s ideal for fat bikes and electric bikes.
Stay in communication and share your location with this small, simple 2-way satellite communicator.
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LIGHT ENOUGH TO GO ANYWHERE STRONG ENOUGH FOR EVERYTHING We believe the journey is the true source of happiness, not the destination. At Kokopelli, we make packrafts designed to help you explore nature in its most serene setting. Journey farther with everything from ultra-lite packrafts to durable whitewater crafts that pack down small enough to go on every adventure.
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PACKRAFTING THE ORANGE RIVER Onseepkans, South Africa
When it comes to taking a trip in the wilderness I’ve always been someone who throws caution to the wind and just says, “Yes.” And if it’s remote, my enthusiasm for the trip is heightened and I am driven to make it happen. For the past two years my wife worked in a corporate setting that involved longer hours at the office, less time off and way more energy spent dealing with the challenges that come with that world view. In that time it seemed like we “grew up.” Gone were the days of planning surf trips to Costa Rica, quick
Written by Scott Martin
whitewater weekends to the Adirondacks and
Images by Scott Martin
snowboarding mid week when the crowds were low and snow was at its best. So about a year ago we decided this lifestyle was not sustainable for us so we decided to take a trip back to my home country, South Africa, to unplug and reconnect with nature as well as each other.
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For about fifteen years I worked as a raft guide on the Orange River in South Africa. The river’s desolate arid setting played a major role in my development. It was there that I learned to be comfortable in nature: sleeping under the stars, navigating gnarly rapids, setting up my bed away from scorpions; filtering river water for drinking and came to cherish a morning coffee as the sun rose over the desert mountains. I learned an important fact that is true of me today - the outdoors is what recharges, sustains me.
The Orange River is South Africa’s longest river,
Seeing how hard my wife, Ashley, was working
Its source is in the Drakensberg Mountain
and the toll it was having on her daily life, had I pitched the idea that we go float the Onseepkans section of the Orange River for three days when we returned to South Africa. Having paddled the river a handful of times over the years, she loved the idea. So in the months leading up to the trip we discussed the logistics of how everything would run. It would only be the two of us – and that added a huge element of risk.
spanning 2500 km (more than 1500 miles). Range located in the independent, land locked country of Lesotho on the northeastern side of the country. The river twists and turns its way westward toward the west coast of South Africa where it empties itself into the cold Atlantic Ocean. The river forms an international border between South Africa and Namibia as well as South Africa and Lesotho. The river does not pass through any major cities. It plays an important role in the economy of South Africa by providing water, irrigation and hydroelectric power to the nation and many large farms found along its banks. Onseepkans is a tiny village in the northwest region of South Africa where a small border post allows access to Namibia. It’s only open from 9am-5pm. There are two table grape farms, a church, butchery, liquor store, (there is always a liquor store in even the smallest 21
towns in South Africa) and a small community
minute supplies we needed. Since it was going
of locals who live and work there. The closest
to just be the two of us, each in a packraft we
hospital is about a 3-hour drive from the border
needed to pack accordingly. This was not like
post. Once you push off into the river and
the commercial rafting trips of my guiding days
leave town behind, you are truly isolated in the
when boats were loaded fat with fillet steaks,
backcountry: there is no cell phone service and
large cooler boxes of beers in ice, dutch ovens
no emergency support system like there is the
and canvas tents. Ashley and I knew we needed
states. Should something wrong while on the
to approach this trip with a “fast and light”
river, we would need to paddle out to the take
mindset. This aspect of the trip allowed me to
out road, find the farmer and start calling for
nerd out. I loved every minute of it. Though
help – a process that could easily take half a day.
we would be going light, I still included a few
We knew we would be isolated, alone and away
luxuries like one cold beer each for each night on
from civilization, its what we wanted. And we
the river (‘cuz you know, it’s still a river trip and
were happy to roll the dice for it.
when it’s 85 degrees at 6pm, nothing is better than a cold one). Our goal was to keep it simple,
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When we finally arrived in Cape Town, South
eat vegetarian meals and enjoy every second. We
Africa, my home town, we visited friends and
used a Pelican cooler that allowed us to keep the
family for a few days while collecting the last
beers cold and keep the cheese from melting.
I purchased a 1lb stick of Biltong. Biltong is a South African treat similar to jerky but significantly better in my opinion. That would be our treat, especially since it goes well with a cold beer.
The Grayl GeoPress™️ Purifier has been a game-changer for me. For someone who travels down
Reports said the river was going to be low so hauling drinking water down the river was not an option. We used Grayl water purifiers. I was unsure about how they would handle the heat and silty water but I was highly impressed. Access to clean drinking water whenever we wanted it was a game changer. We didn’t need to pump or add chemicals to anything, just filled the bottle, press and we were good to go. With our supplies ready to go we loaded the two packrafts, food and camping equipment into the tiny Renault Kwid and drove the ten hours north to Onseepkans.
waterways around the world, I’m constantly exposed to filthy water. The Orange River was no different. I was not only impressed with how well the bottle filtered the water but also the ease and speed of doing it. No pumps, batteries, or chemicals. It’s quick and effortless. Plus, the bottle looks great!”
- SCOTT MARTIN
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The Orange River does not get its name because
Pushing into the river with laden boats I felt
the water is that color, although during flooding
like a kid; I even had a shit eating grin on
the topsoil washout can turn it orange. Dutch
my face. We were back on the Orange River,
explorer, Robert Jacob Gordon named the river
immersed in nature and really unplugged from
in honor of the Dutch ruling family at that time,
the connected world. The boats handled the
The House of Orange. The river is well known
low water well; they sit pretty high on the water
for its diamonds; years ago a 15-year-old boy
which allowed us to paddle around the shallow
found the Eureka Diamond on its banks. After
rocks. I let out a big scream, “Yewwww! We’re
being cut, cleaned and weighed it was 24 carats.
here.” The day was spent paddling in the sun,
Some of the older people in Onseepkanse talk of
enjoying the solitude and each other’s company.
the days they could walk the banks of the river
We navigated a handful of class two rapids,
and find rough diamonds.
grinning at each other when we hit the bottom because they where so much fun.
We arrived to a very low river, possibly the
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lowest I’d ever seen it. My concern was whether
A small patch of sand surrounded by some
we could get the packrafts down the wide river.
trees set against a large cliff would make for a
There are many channels to navigate and with
great camp. We were tired and figured out we’d
the water level low it would make navigating
covered close to 16km (10 miles). Once settled,
more difficult. Normally, the first day is spent
we cracked open our beers and biltong to
paddling around a granite gorge; the gorge
watch the sunset. Suddenly a troop of baboons
can be paddled at higher levels by experienced
appeared on the top of the cliff. They stared
boaters due to the many siphons. The second
down at us inquisitively; soon small rocks
day you portage a water fall, then drop into the
were bouncing off the cliff straight down at
gorge to paddle three class 4 rapids and the last
us. I knew if they got into our camp and found
day is spent exiting the gorge into one large,
our food they would eat it all. We had to get
slow moving channel. We wondered whether we
them away from us, as there was zero chance
should even try since the water was low but, like
of fighting them off, there were close to 40 of
I said, these situations tend to get me all fired
them. We quickly collected some kindling and
up and excited so we decided to go. If it was too
drift wood, I started a fire, hoping the smoke
low we would pull off, eat all our food, and then
would rise against the cliff face up to their
hike up stream with the left over equipment
perch and keep them at bay. Luckily it did, I
back to the put in camp.
started banging my Chaco’s together to make
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a large bang! That seemed to work, as they
the portage location, we descended into the
would go running after loud noise, but then
gorge; carefully passed equipment down to each
they cautiously returned. As night fell they
other in slow and steady movements; this was
moved on down the river and we finally relaxed.
not the time or place to be playing silly buggers
Exhausted from the day we ate dinner and
and risk a fall down the rock face. With such a
passed out at 8.30pm. In those moments before
light set up we made quick work of passing the
sleep I understood that this is exactly what we
gear down the hot rocks into the deep gorge.
had come for - a connection with nature. This
Next up was Big Bunny, the key rapid of the
was where we wanted to be.
trip; a challenging class four. No one has any idea how or why it got that name since there are
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The baboons barking at each other woke us. A
zero bunnies that live along the Orange River.
rude awakening because we had high hopes of
Ashley had paddled Big Bunny before but due
sleeping in and enjoying a slow morning in the
to the low water and rocky line she decided to
shade. Forced to pack up, we practiced proper
portage. I would paddle both packrafts down
Leave No Trace etiquette by taking all our trash
and was delighted, until she asked what the
down river with us. Paddling down stream to
emergency action plan was if I ended face
down, unconscious. I reassured her that I’d be fine, but if it should happen: she needed to paddle down stream to the take out spot, get to the farmer there and call for help.
FEATURED PRODUCTS Grayl GeoPress™️ Purifier
Now feeling a little on edge, I paddled out into
Pelican 12 Can Soft Cooler
the current. As I dropped into the first wave all
Topo Designs Mountain Fleece, Women’s Sport Tights, and River Shorts
my nerves evaporated because I felt at home. Over the years I have paddled this rapid close to eighty times, so I hit my line just the way I had
Chaco Z/ Chromatic Sandals Kokopelli Recon Self-Bailing and Animas River Bag
planned. With a big grin on my face I looked up at her and she knew immediately that I was in my element. The next raft came through with the same success. We high-fived. Ashley jumped in and we continued down stream to our second campsite. The afternoon was spent hiding from the African sun in a rock cave. When the sun finally fell behind the river gorge, there was shade on the beach, what a luxury. We built a fire in a local fishermen’s fire pit and enjoyed the cool breeze and starry night as we drifted off to sleep. Our final day was short, just a 2 hour paddle down flat water to our take out. There the son of a local farmer met us and drove us back to Onseepkans. We arrived back at Red Rock Camp, our base camp to showers that felt like luxuries as the river dirt washed off. Having spent three days completely unplugged, focused solely on the goal of navigating the river safely, I began to understand that the pressures we put on ourselves, as we get older, are often just a state of mind. We can choose to put them aside and be in nature, in the moment, and see more clearly.
Scott Martin is a travel and lifestyle photographer and filmmaker. Born and raised in South Africa he now resides in the United States and frequently visits home. A passion for paddling rivers, travel, and unique cultures have led him around the globe while working with outdoor brands and NGO’s.
@Scott.Martin.Images
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ambassador: jackson groves
purify water. anywhere ON
geopress™ purifier bottle
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PURIFY WATER ANYWHERE ON EARTH. Waterborne viruses are found in all developing countries, infecting adventure travelers and local populations alike. Unrivaled in ease and speed, GRAYL water purifiers provide global protection from all waterborne pathogens (virus, bacteria, protozoan cysts) plus chemicals, herbicides, heavy metals, and even microplastics. 29
LEAVE NO TRACE The thought of summer conjures up mental images of hot days, cool drinks, and as much time spent by the water as possible. But before you head to the creek, here are a few things to keep in mind:
Preparation is Key Plan a route and locate a few existing, durable trails that lead to the water like gravel, sand, or dirt – to get you to your destination. By knowing the area, you can find exit routes that avoid stepping on riverside plants and further eroding stream banks. Check to see if you’re passing through residential areas or past busy trails, and keep the volume down along the way.
Space Out If you see other people out enjoying the river, try to give them the space they need to enjoy their activities, and be conscious of your noise level. Everyone has their own way of enjoying the river, and we want everyone to have a good time.
Minimize Animal Munchings Keep track of your food and crumbs, and clean up any trash or food waste immediately to keep the local wildlife from crashing your picnic. Be sure to bring a bag to help you pack out all trash, and consider packing out any trash you find along the way.
Wade Responsibly If you decide to wade in the shallows, enter and leave the water where the banks are low to prevent erosion. Gravel and sandbars are also durable entry points that let you avoid crushing fragile aquatic plants. Avoid building rock pools or stacking rocks, which can destroy habitat for river dwellers.
Following these tips helps ensure that our rivers can be enjoyed for many summers to come. We hope you enjoy your waterways and Enjoy Your World! 30
“I practice Leave No Trace principles by minimizing the amount of waste I bring in at the onset of any river trip. I start by removing any superfluous packaging when packing overnight bags. I always bring an extra stuff sack for garbage because it’s less likely to rip than traditional plastic bags.”
“In order to practice best LNT principles, we made sure to respect the wildlife, even when a troop of Baboons got very close to camp. We packed our food away to eliminate any trouble. We also made sure we packed out everything we brought with us and made an effort to take any trash we found along the river.”
ABBY SCOTT
SCOTT MARTIN
“On our trip we always carried a spare bag with us just in case we encountered trash on the trail. Any trash we see is OUR trash.”
“Rivers provide us with life, beauty, knowledge, opportunity, and endless fun. The best way to give back is to enjoy with love and care. A true river enthusiast understands the magic of a river environment in its natural state. Sustainable magic requires sustainable fun. Sustainable fun creates more true river enthusiasts and the eddy of river love continues to recirculate.”
SAM McMILLAN
SPENCER LACY 31
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BUILT TO PROTECT Pelican has delivered uncompromising protection for over 40 years. Founded by an avid scuba diver, Pelican builds waterproof cases, cargo cases, extreme coolers, drinkware and lighting tools that thrive in outdoor environments. Whether you need to transport your camera through class 5 rapids, or keep food for a week during that epic overland trip, Pelican will keep your gear safe so you can enjoy the adventure.
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MADE FOR ANYWHERE TM ON YOUR MAP. At Topo Designs, we’re rooted in mountain culture and outdoor living, but love exploring cities and world travel. We look to proven classics for inspiration, yet take advantage of innovative technologies to ensure a timeless look with modern functionality. We are uncomplicated and utilitarian, but with a sense of design and style through simplicity. Our goal is to not have to choose a single path—we want to live on both sides of the fence, where life is always greener.
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TOPODESIGNS.COM TOPODESIGNS.COM
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ATHLETE PROFILE Annika Seidl
When it comes to finding a pro paddler at the top of their game, Annika Seidl makes the short list for the entire European market. Not only does she run her own packrafting and kayaking school in Slovenia and Austria, she is on the
Interviewed by Alexandra Black-Paulick
board of directors for a club for kayakers with disabilities. Every year when the snow starts to fall, you can find Annika ski and snowboard instructing in the Allgäu Alps in Germany. In short, this is the woman for helping you master almost every sport. As she would say, “I simply love seeing people succeed in the sports I love.”
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WHERE IS HOME TODAY?
packraft courses strayed too far apart. I decided
I was born in Augsburg, Germany. There we
that it was time to build a school under my own
have a saying, “Home is where your underwear
direction, guided my own teaching principles
is.” That suits me quite well. My stuff is
and concepts. I’ve never regretted that decision
scattered all over the place. I can only tell you
for a second.
where to find me most of the time. In winter I’m usually in the Alps Oberstdorf Germany,
WHY DID YOU START YOUR SCHOOLS IN
in summer sometimes it’s primarily Bovec,
THE SOČA RIVER VALLEY?
Slovenia.
The Soča River is unique in Europe. On one hand, it stands out because of its incredible
WHAT HAPPENED AT 6 YEARS OLD THAT
natural beauty. On the other hand, there are
SPARKED YOUR PASSION FOR KAYAKING?
countless playing spots perfect for training.
I think it was only natural. My dad was an
Most sections are super fair, but it offers all the
enthusiastic whitewater paddler in the 80’s,
different difficult levels on one river allowing me
inspiring me from an early age. Living in a
to train all techniques quite easily.
campervan close to the rivers accelerated that passion and spurred a fascination for the sport.
WHAT’S SOMETHING NOT MANY PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT SLOVENIA OR THE SOČA
HOW DID YOU START YOUR OWN
VALLEY?
PACKRAFTING SCHOOL?
The Slovenia boom in recent years is changing
In 2013 when I was setting up my own kayaking
the valley and the community. As in many
school a store contacted me about packrafts. At
popular alpine regions, it must be possible to
first I offered packraft courses exclusively for
achieve a balancing act between nature, the
them. At some point our ideas on how to run
locals, tradition and tourism. We Europeans
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tend to sellout our Alps, which irretrievably
to do and why they should do it. In each of
destroys many things. For my part, I decided
our courses, safety is a big factor, such as
not to offer courses in Slovenia in August,
recognizing hazards and how to act correctly in
despite the high demand.
an emergency.
For me environmental protection is important
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE THING ABOUT
and it’s not a question of economic viability. I wish that the Soča Valley will soon find a healthy way to deal with the tourism boom. WHAT CAN PEOPLE EXPECT FROM TAKING A PACKRAFTING OR KAYAK COURSE WITH YOU? WHAT WILL THEY LEARN?
My teaching concept is a bit different. My biggest priority is to train people to be responsible paddlers. Not just for themselves but also for the nature and other people on the river.
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RUNNING A PACKRAFTING SCHOOL?
The people I meet. Usually they are very close to nature and open minded. The packrafting community is kind of small right now, making it easy to network with packrafters all over the world. WHO DO YOU GET INSPIRATION FROM?
In my everyday life I have the privilege to meet many international people. Even though they come from all sorts of different backgrounds they are all united by the same passions. Their
I always try to give people a solid paddling
lifestyle and points of view inspires me. But of
technique that is useful for their skill level.
course, also my home base of friends, family
It’s important for people to understand what
and acquaintances.
Dangers can only be identified and avoided with the necessary respect and objective assessment of your own ability. Always have a plan B, C, D in your pocket. In addition, always be aware that sometimes no matter how well you are prepared, WHAT DO YOU DO IN THE OFF SEASON OR WHEN YOU ARE NOT TEACHING?
I like to travel. Of course, almost exclusively in
it can still go wrong.” ANNIKA SEIDL
connection with my sports. It’s not just a job, it’s a way of life. That’s what my free time is all about. This makes it easy to get to know people and guides worldwide. In a kayak or packraft, the world can be traveled quite differently. WHAT IS A DREAM TRIP OR ADVENTURE THAT YOU WANT TO TAKE?
Oh it’s a long list... For next season I’m trying to cross two off the list. I would like to explore the rivers in Greece, and Colorado to finally visit Kokopelli’s home state. Otherwise, there are still untouched rivers and countries I would like to explore Bulgaria, Albania, Chile, Georgia, Ecuador and the list is getting longer and longer... However, there are also places I would like to visit again, such as Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Turkey.
CONNECT WITH ANNIKA Annika offers packrafting and kayaking courses May-October. PACKRAFTING SCHOOL: www.packraft-touren.com
PRIJON KAYAK SCHOOL: www.kajakschule-prijon.com
INCLUSIVE CANOE CENTER: www.inklusives-kanuzentrum-augsburg.de
INSTAGRAM @LetsGoPackrafting @Prijonkajakschule 39
Fit for being wild Fit for feeling tame Fit for introspection Fit for celebration Fit for stepping out Fit for staying in You’re versatile. And today, individuality is no longer defined by one stand-out characteristic. It’s defined by all the dimensions of you. The adventures you take don’t just start and stop with nature. They’re experienced in all walks of life. Whether that’s hanging on a mountaintop in Yosemite or on a rooftop in San Francisco. While walking along your many paths, Chacos are here to let your free spirit flourish. They’ll become your best companions because they’re just as adaptive and explorative as you are. And they’re fit for whatever comes next. Chaco. Fit for adventureTM.
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EX P LO RI NG SOČA VA LLEY ’S
EMERALD WATERS Goriška, Slovenia
As Colorado’s trees began to shed their summer skins and the first frosty mornings settled in over the state, I waved goodbye to a wonderful river season in the Rocky Mountains and boarded a plane for Slovenia. The River Soča is one of Europe’s most beautiful - it’s emerald waters a bucket list playground for most paddlers. I had packrafted in Slovenia the previous two years and its jagged peaks, playful rivers, and cool
Written by Zach Patterson Images by Annika Seidl and Zach Patterson
weather kept calling me back. My girlfriend, Sarah, and I went to meet former pro-slalom kayaker, Annika - who owns and operates a renowned whitewater packrafting and kayaking school based in the Soča Valley. Not only does her school help beginner whitewater paddlers navigate rushing waters safely, but it also inspires professional rafters to seek out farther flung adventures - like
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those found in the wild backcountry of Slovenia.
magnitude larger than a creek but smaller than the Colorado cutting powerfully through the
At the start of our week-long packrafting trip,
Grand Canyon.
Sarah, Annika, and I hiked to and from the put in and met up with incredibly skilled paddlers
Accessing the river requires a beautiful,
from German, Slovenia, and Austria. Since our
intermediate hike and fortunately our packrafts
group straddled the line between advanced
are lightweight and easy to carry over mossy
and expert, we spent much of each river day
rocks and through lush forests. While I love to
hitting difficult lines, surfing holes, and boofing
paddle, the beauty of the hikes to and from the
anything that was boof-able.
Soča River almost matched the glory of its otherworldly waters.
Like Colorado, much of Solvenias wilderness remains scenic and wild. The Soča River
My favorite thing about rivers is that they are
specifically jumps playfully through pine
constantly changing. I’m always a different
forests and rocky outcroppings, cascading
person when I begin to float on its cascading
emerald waterfalls pour into deep pools. The
waters. While I had experience paddling the
water is filtered by the chalky Alps making it
Soča, it too has changed. The water level was
crystal clear and so, so delicious to drink. The
different, various rock falls and trees had
medium flow river sports technical rapids with a
shifted. We are forced to check our egos at the
moderate amount of gradient, it’s swiftness and
door and give ourselves over to the flow, trusting
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ourselves, our boats, and our partners to make it through. I trusted Annika to expertly guide us through difficult rapids and around obstacles I did not remember or had never yet encountered. She did not disappoint. Sarah - who had only been on a packraft three times - was initially nervous and apprehensive. By the end of the trip, a wide smile adorned her face and she wanted to run it all over again. We spent the day running the Koritnica - a narrow, swift tributary of the Soča. It’s waters also sparkle turquoise and paddlers can see right to the bottom. The vibrant water pops against overhanging, chalky rock. This segment is fast and flowy and requires a long, steep hike to get
I love Topo Designs because their design is incredible, the fit is perfect, and the quality is what I’d expect. The Fleece Mountain Pants were perfect for our trip to Slovenia as the weather was already starting to get cold. I could wear them to bed, at the camp fire in the morning, and under my drysuit while on the river.”
- ZACH PATTERSON
there. Totally worth it. We cut through a famous canyon, played on moderate rapids, and ended the day completely exhausted and completely stoked. When we weren’t paddling the Soča River, we hiked up to frosty alpine lakes nestled in the laps of Slovenia’s rugged peaks. The scenery is unreal - like the chalky mountains popped off a Nat Geo page and stood in front of us, unwavering and majestic. Chilly days gave way to even colder nights and stars burst forth from dark, inky skies, like holes punched in a midnight black canvas. On one particular drive to a picturesque alpine lake hike, we got stuck on what was very much
45
a one-way road and could not pass by the fresh rock slide. After what seemed like a 300-point turn, we were able to rotate a full 180 and head back towards town. Speaking of town - Slovenia’s smaller locales are diverse and friendly. We had such warm welcomes in both base locations - Bovec and Kobarid. After long, exhausting days, finding the best food was an ultimate delight. The savory pancakes at Camp Kiln still linger in my dreams. When it’s not the fluffy pancakes I’m craving it’s probably the cheesy, gooey pizza slices at Camp Liza.
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“There’s only one brand of sandals I’ll wear on the river and it’s for three reasons: 1. They are perfect from switching from paddling to hiking. 2. They are fresh and make me feel unique. 3. I get a killer Chaco tan.”
- ZACH PATTERSON
FEATURED PRODUCTS Pelican R40 Ruck Case Topo Designs Global Jacket, Mountain Fleece, Tech Pants, River Shorts, Subalpine Pack, & Mountain Pack Chaco Z/Chromatic Sandals and Mega Z/Cloud Kokopelli Rogue Spraydeck Grayl GeoPress™️ Purifier
As our time in Slovenia came to a close, one thought remained persistent, gnawing at me as we packed up and said our goodbyes. I had to come back. The people were incredibly generous, the beauty was like nothing else, and the water was out of this world. As a native Coloradan, I grew up around supreme, coveted natural beauty. I’m hardly overwhelmed. But this time, I was speechless. Now, in addition to plotting trips for the upcoming river season, I’ll begin to set my sights once again on the wonderful water of Slovenia and knowing that I’ll be back there so very soon.
An avid whitewater paddler, Zach Patterson spends almost all of his free time out on the river. He spent several years as a river guide in Estes Park, Colorado. Today he fuels the stoke as part of the Kokopelli team. When not helping others find the best gear, he’s running laps on the Poudre River.
@Zach_Righteous 47
PelicanTM Dayventure Sling Cooler
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The Pelican™ Dayventure Sling Cooler is the water-resistant and incredibly durable soft cooler that keeps your hands free and your cold drinks close. The Pelican™ Dayventure Sling features a wide top opening for easy access, an interior compartment that can hold up to four wine bottles, 12 cans, or 8.5 total liters, a convenient side pocket for additional dry storage and a compression molded base allowing it to stand on its own. Finished with a leak resistant zipper, this cooler will keep your drinks cold all day long and performs best when used with a Pelican Ice Pack. With a padded shoulder strap and rubberized carry handle, this cooler is easy to carry and is the perfect companion for every Dayventure.
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purify water. anywhere. Clean, safe drinking water is a fundamental element of life and key ingredient of any adventure. The Grayl® GeoPress™ empowers global travelers and adventurers with award winning water purifiers that drive selfsufficiency and safe passage worldwide. It’s unrivaled in ease, speed, and versatility and provides an experience that’s second to none.
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GEAR GUIDE
DAY HIKES
All the gear you need to hit the trail with style.
Wacaco Pipamoka Brew and drink a delicious and balanced cup of coffee from anywhere with this nomadic coffee maker.
Goal Zero Flip 12 Power Bank Charge up your phone on the go with this small and portable battery.
Topo Designs Subalpine 28L Pack A backpack combining the functionality of classic hiking packs with the unmistakably Topo Designs styling.
Hennessy Hammock Ultralite Backpacker Zip At 1lb 15oz, this ultralight compact hammock adds comfort and relaxation to your trek
Black Diamond Distance Plus FLZ Trekking Poles Adaptable and supportive trekking poles built for the long haul.
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Chaco Z/Sandal Chaco’s original go-anywhere do-anything adjustable sandal.
Pelican Dayventure Sling Cooler
16oz Grayl Ultralight Water Purifier
A water-resistant and durable soft cooler that keeps your hands free and your cold drinks close.
No need to haul extra water with this purifier in your pack. Purify water virtually anywhere on earth.
GEAR GUIDE
EXTEND THE ADVENTURE LOOKING TO TURN YOUR OUTING INTO A MULTI-SPORT ADVENTURE? Here is the best gear to fuel your journey:
Mountain Bike - JET 9 RDO Niner Float up technical climbs, blast downhills, and fly smoothly over everything else with this versatile mountain bike.
Kokopelli Feather Pump
MTI 16g Belt Pack PFD
Inflate your packraft in 60 seconds with this 6oz rechargeable lithium-ion pump.
A belt pack inflatable life vest designed with enough mobility and freedom that you’ll forget you’re wearing it.
Kokopelli Rogue-lite This minimalist packraft only weighs 5.2lbs and rolls down to the size of a paper towel roll.
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PEDAL, DAMN IT!
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LOOK IN G F OR A BI KE T HA T RA T C HE T S U P T HE F U N F A C T O R , BU T D OE S N ’ T B IT E BA CK W HE N T HE RE ’ S W O R K T O B E DO NE ? Our playful JET 9 RDO is the ticket. With Niner’s [R]evolution geometry and 120mm of suspension travel, you’ll float up technical climbs, blast downhills, and fly smoothly over everything else. Incorporating patented CVA Suspension, Race Day Optimized carbon fiber, Enduro MAX Black Oxide Pivot bearings, and a lifetime warranty, the JET is fit to take flight.
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8,000 MILES LATER
NO LONGER NOVICES Pacific Northwest, USA
It was set to be a summer of firsts, acknowledging that personal growth and new skills would be gained in the process. And we had a big goal ahead of us, marrying mountain biking and packrafting for our finale bikerafting trip in Deschutes, OR at the end of the season. We both knew from the very beginning that outfitting ourselves with the right gear would mean the difference between pushing ourselves beyond our comfort zones and a mundane tourist
Written by Kyle Ledeboer Images by Kyle Ledeboer & Sam McMillan
existence. We made the right choice when we decided to partner up with Kokopelli and Niner to kick off the adventure of a lifetime: an 8,000-mile summer road trip spanning three months. To say that Samantha and I were novices with regard to paddling and pedaling would be a
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tremendous understatement. Between us we had
We got our first taste of dirt when we pulled out
about 15 rides total on mountain bikes. Only one
the mountain bikes in Steamboat Springs, CO.
of us had ever floated a major river with rapids
We climbed a strenuous trail to get a bird’s eye
of consequence.
view of the sleepy mountain town, getting a feel for the carbon fiber human powered machines
We picked up our gear from Colorado in mid-
which flowed beautifully across the sticky dirt.
June, heading into the “testing phase,” or as I like to refer to it, a lot of trial and error. In
The very next day we were off to Steamboat
just a few short weeks we had to learn how to
Lake for our packrafting debut. The 35 mph
inflate, deflate, paddle, clean, dry, and store our
constant winds and white capping waves put our
packrafts. For biking, we planned to escalate to
lack of experience on full display as we drifted
bigger trails. Once we mastered that, we needed
across the lake from our starting point. Every
to tackle mounting our bikes to our packrafts,
stroke Samantha made had water pouring down
aiming to maximize how they could be used in
her oars and into her lap, leaving her sitting in
conjunction with one another.
several inches of water.
Rather than jumping into bikerafting out of the
At the start of our adventure, we decided that at
gate, we agreed to expand our comfort zones
the end of each section we would sit and have an
slowly with each respective sport.
honest evaluation of what went right. In what
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areas could we improve? What are the next steps
worries. Yet with Steamboat Springs receiving
we need to take to continue to push ourselves
24 inches of snow on their summer solstice just
toward our goal of running rapids with bikes
a few days prior, our luck wasn’t looking up.
securely mounted to our rafts? Plagued yet again by high winds, white capping Evaluating our Steamboat experience, we
waves, and hail, Samantha decided to stay
reached the realization that Colorado’s high
on shore while I paddled into the wind, bike
country, still covered by several feet of snow,
securely strapped to my bow. After 20 minutes
wasn’t the right location for our endeavors. In
of getting tossed around, I headed back to shore.
search of open trails, snow free pathways, and
With the confidence that the rafts could perform
calmer waters, we pressed on. After a quick
even under the worst conditions, handling
stayover in Dubois, WY for several relaxing
anything we novice paddlers threw at it, it was
days of home cooked meals and fly fishing with
time to get comfortable on two wheels.
close friends, we made our way to Grand Teton National Park.
Bozeman, Montana promised ample biking playgrounds. Heading through Yellowstone
Underneath the watch of the towering Tetons,
National Park, with several stops for camping
we secured the mountain bikes to the packrafts
and fishing, we met up with our good friend
for the first time. We practiced taking off both
Porter in the small Montana college town.
tires and experimented with different ways of layering the frame and tires in a way that
Porter wanted to take us riding out at Cooper
it would remain balanced and stable on the
City, a newly constructed trail system near Three
front of our packrafts. We headed into the local
Forks, MT. We were elated to not only ride some
rafting shop in Jackson Hole to purchase some
real trails, but also to experience our first “flow
carabiners and NRS straps so that we could
track,” a term we just learned. Porter stressed
solidify the union before making our way down
the importance of keeping our weight forward
to the water for a paddle.
on the bikes as we pressed upward, grinding through switchback after switchback. In the end,
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With summer supposedly well underway,
we did a fair amount of pushing, maneuvering
weather should have been the least of our
the carbon fiber bodies over rocks. All the initial
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effort melts away once you crest the last hill and
Meeting up with our friend Alex, we launched
start your descent. There is just nothing that
from a small tributary of the Henry’s Fork
compares to the weightless feeling of flying over
River in Eastern Idaho. A local sports store
rollers and around steep banks.
had recommended it, so we decided to try our luck. We Launched about a mile upstream
With a new level of confidence, we prepared for
from the Henry’s Fork on the Warm River,
our next -more challenging- ride, the Mountain
which is much shallower and way rockier than
to Meadow Trail in Big Sky, MT. Tackling a
its more significant counterpart. Struggling to
blue section of downhill pushed us even further
find the correct put-in, we floated 100 yards
outside our comfort zone yet helped solidify
before seeing signs we had to exit. We pulled
our love for being in the saddle. The trail can be
our ultra-lite watercrafts out and bushwhacked
insanely fast and exhilarating. Some switchbacks
down the road to a more appropriate put in.
were so tight and narrow that they felt like
Continuing on, our rear ends got mildly abused
certain disaster for a novice rider. But with a
by boulders before we reached the confluence.
little trust, and a heavy dose of peer pressure,
From there the mild rapids basically equated
we overcame all the obstacles. I finished slightly
to splashy water. As we meandered down the
before Samantha. As she appeared in my field
river, I was extremely upset that I left my fly rod
of view, I could tell that she had taken her first
back in the car. After successfully floating into
wipe out and survived.
our designated finish line at Ashton Reservoir, we bid Alex farewell and headed toward Glacier
On to Idaho and our first river in the packrafts.
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National Park.
If there’s one thing visitors of National Parks know, it’s that the 4th of July is one of the most popular days. We quickly realized our mistake, landing ourselves in a never-ending sea of cars clamoring to enter the park. Seeking nature’s solitude, not the ambush of tourists, we bailed from the never-ending line and kept driving north. Arriving in Banff, we were both eager to paddle this Northern Rockies gem. Yet again we found ourselves plagued by a stint of bad weather and a lack of credible information on sections of river. Without wetsuits and with highs only in the mid 50s, the cold glacial water presented real consequences if we were to flip. So, we pressed onward. Whistler, a biking mecca, provided a plethora
This bike allows you to experience the kind of bliss that only hard core mountain bikers know about. Being a novice rider, the JET 9 RDO model from Niner initially seemed a bit like overkill, but I really wanted a bike that I could grow into. One quick turn of the rear dial and the suspension was locked, which made climbs less strenuous. The dropper post allowed me to turn every downhill into my very own carnival ride. All I had to do was keep my pedals level and let the bike handle the details!”
of trails accessible just a short pedal from the
- KYLE LEDEBOER
hotel. Bonus was that our hotel had a bike washing station right out front. After a series of enjoyable bike rides, time constraints had us
day progressed. This included our first black
cutting our stay short to continue our trek south.
diamond trail. Although we had to pick our way through it, we came out the other side
Outside of Seattle, we discovered Duthie Hill
unscathed.
Mountain Bike Park. Here we spent an entire day trying out more difficult trails. This treasure
Next stop, Bend, OR for our bikerafting finale.
allows riders of all levels to slowly scale and expand their comfort zones by giving each
We chose to camp at Sparks Lake, along the
person options. Jumps, drops, and technical
Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway, with the hopes
sections for every level. We spent the entire
of floating a section of the Deschutes River
day exploring only a fraction of the 120
and running our own shuttle with the bikes.
acres, moving to more difficult trails as the
We spoke to a local rafting shop and found 61
maps depicting which sections were doable. I
watched as guided trip after guided trip
say doable because there are a few significant
put in before us. We took our time getting
Class V rapids on the Deschutes. Our packraft
the rafts inflated, bikes broken down, and
models were rated only to Class II and III, not to
securely mounted. This allowed us to get more
mention we weren’t prepared for anything too
information from the professional guides as well
rowdy.
as to clue them in as to what exactly we were doing. Most of them were extremely interested
We zeroed in on a short section above Lava Falls
in the fact that we were going to float with our
and strapped our tightly rolled packrafts to our
bikes mounted to the packrafts, something they
handlebars. We stored our paddles, PFDs and
had never seen done before.
Feather Pump in our dry bags and hit the trail. After pedaling upstream a few miles, we stopped
Launching into the river, Samantha and I
to scout rapids, made mental notes about how
picked our way through each rapid. I made the
to run them, and identified reference points to
most of eddies to periodically get photos. As
signify our takeout.
Samantha approached one of the bigger rapids, I climbed out on a lava outcropping to capture the
With our nerves getting the best of us, we
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moment. She inadvertently selected the worst
line and hit the roughest part of the white water. Upon returning to my raft, I met up with her further downstream. She was bailing water out of her packraft once again, but this time only had her shoe to serve as a bucket. Once
FEATURED PRODUCTS Niner JET 9 RDO Kokopelli Rogue Spraydeck and Nirvana Spraydeck
she cleared the excess water, we continued to our takeout, enjoying the glow of successfully combining biking and packrafting. All in all, our road trip served as the best learning experience. There was no better way to progress from novice to the point of competence in such a short time. We walked away from our trip with a much deeper love for both sports as well as the confidence to combine them again in the future. As for our personal goals, this trial helped us spearhead tremendous personal growth, both individually and as a couple. While expanding our comfort zones, we also grew closer together as a couple. Having successfully married packrafting and biking, we can now prepare for our next big adventure, getting married in the near future.
Kyle Ledeboer is a Phoenix based commercial photographer, but his heart and soul live in the mountains. He spends his summers traveling from place to place searching for his next great adventure.
@KplOutdoors Samantha McMillan is a hospitality professional who has a passion for people and sharing their stories. She’s absolutely obsessed with watersports and has been known to use her own shoe to bail herself out of trouble.
@SamMcmillan 63
Introducing Chillos: Post-Hike. Pro-Chill.
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Pedal to the metal then rest with the best. Chillos are here for the chill after all of life’s thrills. Designed for the unwind and always #fitforadventure.
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Apparel, backpacks, bags & accessories made for anywhere on your map.
TOPODESIGNS.COM TOPODESIGNS.COM 66
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THE MARKARFLJÓT RIVER
“Markarfljót. Markarfljót. The Markarfljót River,
SOURCE-TO-SEA
repeatedly over the phone, with different, likely
Suðurland, Iceland
in Iceland, you know?” Mason butchered the name very wrong, pronunciations each time. A sourceto-sea packrafting trip was his latest brain child for our next grand adventure together. We’ve been doing these incredible adventures on a variety
Written by Joey Schusler Images by Joey Schusler
of magnitudes together since we were 5 years old - making him my longest standing friend. His younger brother Spencer comes in at a close second. The three of us are going on 25 years of friendship and crazy times together. Each year as we grow older, we always seem to carve out some time for another grand adventure. It’s something we grew up doing together, so now it just feels natural to keep the tradition alive.
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Mason and Spencer have been lifelong river rats,
knew we would be able to figure things out as
growing up doing river trips, kayaking the gnar,
we went - despite the daunting waterfalls, deep
and now both practicing river management and
all committing gorges, and sharp volcanic rock
water engineering for their careers. Meanwhile,
ready to chew away at our packrafts. Luckily we
I’ve only fallen in love with the ways of the river
had the new PVC constructed Recon packrafts.
in recent years, first starting out in a packraft
Some of the pointiest and sharpest volcanic rock
and expanding to all sorts of adventurous river
I have ever seen, especially a concern in a low
travel since. Mason and Spencer have been
volume river, would really put the packrafts to
incredible teachers and guides along the way.
the test.
I immediately committed to the Iceland trip
And with that, we set out. A public bus would
with the two of them. I knew this would be one
take us from Reykjavík, the country’s capital,
for the books, and after an online search of the
right to the heart of the Icelandic highlands in
Markarfljót River, I was taken with its beauty.
a region known as Landmannalaugar. Rolling
I was a little apprehensive of being the green
hills, painted with a rainbow of minerals,
paddler in a crew of incredible experienced
neon grasses, and jagged otherworldly rock
river runners, but I didn’t let that stop me. I
outcroppings, with mist rolling in and out of
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the landscape, only added to the mysticism and
higher into the thick mist. I could see how easy
daunting nature of the adventure that lay ahead.
it would be to get lost out here, and even in summer it was bone chillingly cold. The wind
In our research online, we found no trip reports,
picked up more and more until it was such a
no route descriptions, and for all we knew, this
struggle we would have to scream at one another
would be a first source-to-sea mission on this
to communicate - we were in the thick of it, with
river.
the hot springs far behind. Icy rain pelted our faces.
The trip started with perhaps the pinnacle moment of comfort - a natural hot spring with a
Eventually we set up camp in a rock outcropping
soft sandy bottom. We took a soak, and warmed
for wind break, right at the very headwaters of
the bones for the chilling adventure ahead. We
the Markarfljรณt river. We had found the source,
then set out overland hiking to find the source of
but it was still merely a trickle, and not nearly
the river. Our packs were loaded with ten days of
ready for us to float in. We hoped the levels
food and supplies for any sort of unknowns that
would rise without too much more hiking.
lay ahead. The next day we set out on foot again, and Following only the GPS, we headed higher and
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thankfully were treated with two large
tributaries flowing into the main channel. There was now enough water to float and get the burden of weight off our backs! We started paddling. We were out of the wind, and all was good again after the previous days struggles. There is nothing better that realizing that the pull of the river carries the weight off your back, and will slowly take you to where you need to go - in our case the coast of the Atlantic in Southern Iceland. Along the way, we would dive in and out of the unknown - of fear and joy, pain and pleasure. Dark bottomless gorges where the sun barely shines full of class 4/5 whitewater, beautiful open flood planes amidst neon green peaks, free-soloing sheep high on the cliffs above, water
The Recon is the go-to boat for larger water and sharper surroundings, where failure is not an option and weight isn’t as paramount. The PVC construction is so incredibly bomber. It allows for higher pressures, which increases overall performance. And there were SHARP rocks in Iceland, so this was truly a testament to the quality of the boats.�
- JOEY SCHUSLER 71
so clear, so green, so turquoise, so red, and so
searching to see what lay beneath the rim. That
black, camping in beds of loam so soft.
turned out to be some of the rowdiest paddling I had ever done. Needless to say, I swam more
It was a beautiful experience. A true challenge, a
than once, but it was reassuring to have the Lacy
test of all the adventures I have ever been on to
bros close at my side to manage the risks.
travel through such rugged terrain. It was a trial
Eventually, we were spat out wet, tired, and
of constant judgement and decision making,
cold, in perhaps the most otherworldly and
which is the basis for a true expedition into the
incredible place I had ever seen - ThĂłrsmĂśrk.
unknown. It was where friendships are forged so
Jagged volcanic incisors, coated in fluorescent
deep and so strong. Throughout the process, my
green, formed ridges up to some of Europes
childhood wish of having brothers seems to have
largest glaciated regions. They spanned as far
been finally granted. A stark contrast of visual
as the eye could see. We had made it out of the
delight with a heavy dose of cold, hunger, utter
canyons - boats and bodies all intact.
dampness, and a polite wish for the wind to stop for just a few minutes.
From here, it was another day’s float out to the Atlantic in flat water, and a miles wide
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Days melded together. We committed to
maze of braided channels. From the ground,
running some gorges after long side hikes
the landscape seemed moon like and bleak,
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To see a river from source to sea, start as a trickle, and end with countless braided channels a mile wide was something unreal. Only through seeing every tributary and mile of the river can you really understand an ecosystem like this.�
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but from overhead with the drone, it looked like an intricate neural network. Hours on end we paddled, recounting the stories of the wild whitewater we had navigated. It had been nearly ten days, and we were just now about at the ocean.
FEATURED PRODUCTS Topo Designs Cord Cap, Boulder Pants, and Mountain Socks Chaco Z/Cloud Sandals Kokopelli Recon Self-Bailing Grayl GeoPress™️ Purifier
Upon reaching the sea, the adventure didn’t finish without one last hoorah. Mason and Spencer paddled right out into the surf of the mighty north Atlantic, only to catch a few big waves, and get slammed right back to the beach in a goofy loose fashion only the Lacy bros could pull off. We laughed, had a driftwood fire on the beach, and recounted a lifetime of adventures together - this one being really the crowning achievement and culmination of them all.
Joey Schusler is a professional adventure athlete, photographer, and award winning filmmaker from Boulder, Colorado. His adventures have taken him to some of the wildest places on earth. He’s been a Kokopelli ambassador since the early days of the brand, and has an adventure list that just keeps on growing, even as he continues to tick them off.
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A PACKRAFT FOR EVERY ADVENTURE STYLE From casual paddles in your backyard, to exploring crystal clear alpine lakes, to navigating raging whitewater, we have a packraft designed for you.
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GEAR GUIDE
MULTI-DAY WHITEWATER
Kokopelli Recon Self-Bailing w/ TiZip Constructed from reinforced PVC, enjoy increased durability and extra stability to tackle rowdier water.
Shred Ready Zeta Helmet
Kokatat Hustle PFD
This helmet combines the style and swagger of iconic sports figures with high-tech protection.
A low profile side entry life vest designed for active paddlers.
Goal Zero Crush Light Lantern
Werner x Kokopelli Powerhouse Paddle (4-Piece Breakdown)
A collapsible solar-powered lantern that weighs a mere 3.2 oz and lights up the night at your backcountry campsite.
Trusted on the hardest runs in the world, this paddle has the power and responsiveness needed for big creeks and river running.
Pelican G40C Personal Utility Go Charge Case Keep your devices protected and charged with this crushproof and water-resistant case.
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Marmot Tungsten Ultralight 2-Person Tent Enjoy the extra space without the extra weight with this easy to pitch ultralight tent
Several must haves to outfit your longer excursions on the water.
24oz Grayl GeoPress™️ Water Purifier The world’s fastest and simplest purifier provides virus-level protection anywhere in the world.
WOMENS
MENS
Kokatat Meridian Dry Suit (GORE-TEX®) Take on whitewater adventures in comfort with supreme durability and ultimate breathability.
Chaco Chillos Slide A new ultra-light slide designed for the unwind.
Topo Designs Fleece Pants Perfect as a base layer or on their own, they’ll keep you warm and toasty on and off the water.
TRiB airCap Pressure Gauge Take the guesswork out of inflation with this solarpowered airCap pressure gauge.
Immersion Research Microwave Handwarmer Pogies
Wazoo Adventure Kit
This 3mm neoprene with abrasion resistant fabric outside and soft, plush inside keeps your hands warm in cold paddling conditions.
Prepare for the unknown with this custom-designed 23 tool survival kit.
Adventure Kit
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CRAFTED FOR ADVENTURE PEOPLE, BY ADVENTURE PEOPLE. Take your adventure out on the road by diving into the Van Life movement. Designed for both weekend warriors and those living on the road full time, VanDOit gives you the freedom to facilitate life experiences by combining adventure and travel.
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W IL D T R AVE R SE
ARE YOU A BRAND INTERESTED IN PARTNERING ON FUTURE ISSUES? Contact Kokopelli Packraft for more information. info@kokopellipackraft.com
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