MARKET REPORT
FOR ACNE STUDIOS X KOTRYNA ADOMAITYTE
CONTENTS
Market level/ Competitors 4-5 Acne Studios About the brand 6-7 Customer profile 8-9 Collections 10-13 USP 14-15 Fabrics and price range 16-17 Details 18-21 Summary 22-23 Loeil About the brand 24-25 Collections 26-27 USP 28-29 Fabrics and price range 30-31 Details 32-35 Summary 37-37 Cos About the brand 38-39 Collections 40-43 USP 44-45 Fabrics and price range 46-47 Details 47-49 Summary 50-51 JW Anderson Ablout the brand 52-53 Colections 54-57 USP 58-59 Fabrics and price range 60-61 Details 62-65 Summary 66-67 Conclusion 68-69 References 71
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MARKET LEVEL For my market-level, I choose the Mid-level designe market, as I want to create a diffusion line for Acne studios, which would be more affordable. This market level allows me to use high-quality fabrics and unique designs with finishing details that would be realistic for this market. I wanted to experiment and create a line that would be approachable for a wider range of young people, but still, have that luxury feel of designer label.
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COMPETITORS For my competitors, I chose JW Anderson, Loeil, and Cos. I chose these brands as I thought they have similar aesthetics and design approach. They are at a slightly different price level. JW Anderson being the most expensive one. I also chose Cos, which is on the edge of designer/high fashion brand, however, Acne Studios is the brand they look up to, so a diffusion line for Acne studios would be at similar price points to Cos. And lastly, I chose Loeil, which is a small designer label, with similar price points and aesthetics to Acne Studios.
HIGH PRICE AND QUALITY LUXURY BRAND
CLASSIC
CONTEMPORARY
LOWER PRICE LUXURY BRAND
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ABOUT THE BRAND Acne studios is a Stockholm - based fashion house, operating as a luxury market all around the world. It was found by John Johansson and his creative team in 1996. They are specialised in contemporary men and women ready-to-wear goods including clothes, footwear, accessories and denim. The collections are defined by Jonny Johansson’s signature juxtaposing design and attention to detail, with emphasis on tailoring and use of materials and custom-developed fabrics. Besides offering fashion, Acne studios is multidisciplinary brand which focuses on art, architecture and graphic design. These aspects are usually applied in their stores, which are the most important marketing and visual point for them. Currently there are 66 stores world wide.
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CUSTOMER PROFILE The Acne Studios target market is both male and females aged 20-45. Because price of the product is prestige, Acne Studios targets people with higher income, usually in an upper social class. Acne clients value quality items and don’t usually dress to draw attention. The typical client prefers to invest in quality pieces that will last a long time. They are highly educated and likely to work in creative industries e.g. in fashion, graphic design and architecture, as sold products are minimalistic yet quirky. Acne studios customers usually live in big cities, as these are the main store locations. Consumer can be described as self-confident, optimistic, creative, outgoing, unconventional and eccentric.
Anfisa
25 years old Interior designer Model on her free time Loves to travel Loves books and art exhibitions
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COLLECTION A/W 2020
Beautiful jacquards, brocades, and velvets that might have otherwise been used for upholstery were transformed into dramatic dress coats, cocoon-shaped tunics, and suiting with edges frayed and tasseled to varying degrees of decadent distress. The mix between distress finishes and feminine silhouettes gave this collection unique look.
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Oversized Feminine silhouettes Distress finishes Layering Draping
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COLLECTION S/S 2020
Acne Studios Spring looks appeared homespun, and earthy yet somehow also luxurious. Layers were their leitmotif; large vests and shabby sweaters were shown over worn-in shirts; dresses and tunic knits shifted open over body-skimming underpinnings. Tactile embellishments everywhere: random embroidery strands, charms along with back belts, sandal straps loaded with Western buckles. Overall very natural collection, with a lot of interesting layering and silhouettes.
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Oversized Feminine silhouettes Distress finishes Layering Neautral colours Print
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USP One of the main unique selling points of Acne studios is their tailoring. Being a Scandinavian brand Acne focuses a lot on fit and proportion of their garments, as they are designed to be investment pieces, and last long time, which is one of their ethos as a brand. Because of that their tailoring is always very well designed and made. Every collection contains some sort of tailoring like tailored suits, trousers, coats. Usually, structured pieces are styled with a looser fit and lighter garments to give that contemporary look to their classic pieces.
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Acne Studios are not afraid to use prints. The majority of their collections contain some printed items. Usually, prints are in medium and small scales. Acne uses abstract as well as more graphic prints in their collections, however, abstract prints are usually on a much bigger scale, whereas graphics prints are much smaller and delicate. In addition, if there are prints, they are usually layered, Acne is known for mixing different prints to create one look, this way printed outfits really stand out and look unique. Even though some of their outfits are busy with prints, keeping them in neutral colors gives that Scandinavian feel, giving the collection unique and yet minimal look that is true to their identity.
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FABRICS AND Suit Jackets
520£ - 1450£ Wool, Cotton, Linen
Corduroy suit jacket 600£ Main material: 97% Cotton, 3% Elastane Lining: 100% Viscose
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Rib-knit sweater 320£ Main material: 100% Wool
Knitwear
200£ - 650£ Wool, Polyester,
Outerwear
330£ - 2200£ Wool, Cotton, Linen, Lamb shearling, Lamb leather, Cow leather, Wool-twill trench coat 1000£ Main material: 100% Wool Lining: 100% Viscose
PRICE RANGE Dresses
190£ - 1100£ Cotton, Linen, Silk, Polyester
Crepe dress 900£ Main material: 100% Silk
Shirts, blouses 180£ - 1150£ Cotton, Linen, Lamb leather, Silk
Striped shirt 250£ Main material: 82% Cotton, 18% Polyester
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Trousers
230£ - 1400£ Cotton, Linen, Lamb leather, Silk, Flared linen trousers Viscose 390£ Main material: 100% Linen
T-shirts 90£ - 200£ Cotton
Reverse-label t-shirt 160£ Main material: 100% Cotton
DETAILS Black skirt is made from lightly-creased satin that’s pressed into sharp knife pleats with a wrap-over front and finished with contrasting stitching above the hem.
Details Lightly creased satin Snap button closures Asymmetric hem Contrast stitching Main material: 87% Triacetate, 13% Polyester
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Dress is crafted from silk crepe with a textural finish and features a drawstring cut-out panel and wide sleeves with exaggerated cuffs.
Details Gathered back panel Ties at the nape Dropped shoulders Wide cuffs Main material: 100% Silk
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Old pink trousers are cut from cotton twill to a relaxed, straight-leg silhouette and finished with a pleated waist band.
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Details Cotton twill Pleated front Button and zip fastenings Two slip pockets Two jetted pockets Main material: 100% Cotton
Details Rose motif Knots and button closures Stand collar Two front patch pockets Unlined
Cream beige jacket is crafted from cotton-canvas and patterned with a rose motif. It’s shaped to a boxy fit with a stand collar and accented with knots and button closures.
Main material: 100% Cotton
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SUMMARY Acne studios is a well recognised brand with its unique identity. Design wise this brand combines minimal silhouettes with neutral colours and interesting, busy prints which defines this brand as being very expressive and distinctive. My research has shown that customers wear Acne because of the high quality unique designs. They appreciate the cut and fit of the garment and choose to invest into into apparel that will last long time. This brand also offers a wide range of products, from classic garments to contemporary and more experimental pieces, this way appealing to a wider range of people.
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ABOUT THE BRAND LOÉIL is a women’s ready-to-wear collection with a multidisciplinary approach and strives to be open to experimentation in order to offer a curated range of beautiful elements. Founded in 2015, LOÉIL has rapidly grown with delicate minimal silhouettes and harmonious sensibility of artistic femininity details in exceptional quality. They value the craftsmanship and the independently produced resulting in a unique and one of a kind pieces from the past that can be worn today.
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COLLECTION S/S 2020
Loeil’s spring collection is very feminine and elegant, with a vintage feel to it. The use of natural fabrics such as linen gives this collection earthy look, yet bright pastel colors give that pop of excitement and interest to the collection.
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Feminine silhouettes Print Neat finishing Bright pastel colours Fabric manipulation Draping
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USP Usp of this label is definitely the cut and color of their garments. The cut and tailoring are impeccable, it is simple yet with a point of interest within finishing details. They also use good quality fabrics with different textures which adds more depth and interest. Also, the use of color is brilliant, this brand uses unique bright pastel colors like this green and pink with natural beige and white tones. This mixture of colors uniquely defines this label.
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FABRICS AND Outerwear 150£ - 300£ Wool, Cotton, Polyester
Omendra tweed jacket 190£ Main material: 40% Polyester, 30% Wool, 30% Acrylic Lining: 100% Viscose
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Skirts
100£ - 150£ Polyester
Beriko skirt 110£ Main material: 100% Polyester
Vizelle trousers 120£ Main material: 80% Polyester, 20% Linen
Trousers
120£ - 200£ Cotton, Linen, Polyester
PRICE RANGE Tops
100£ - 160£ Cotton, Linen, Polyester
Barzio top 130£ Main material: 70% Polyester, 20% Linen, 10% Rayon
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Dresses
150£ - 250£ Cotton, Linen, Polyester
Cool linen dress 160£ Main material: 63% Rayon, 30% Linen, 4% Acrylic, 3% Polyester
DETAILS Full-length sleeveless dress in Italian lace ribbed knit. Featuring soft cup bodice, sweetheart neckline, elasticized side cutouts. Nonadjustable straps. A concealed back zipper closure. Stretchy fabric, semi-sheer and unlined.
Materials: 96% Cotton, 4% Spandex
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Tailored trouser in breezy textured linen. Mid-rise waist. Big welt pockets. Wide hem. Materials: 80% Polyester, 20% Linen
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Bolero-style open back top linen-blend jacquard top. Sculptural puffed volume sleeves. Square v-neckline. Elasticized shoulder and back string to ensure a smooth fit. Free closure, top slips on. Materils: 70% Polyester, 20% Linen, 10% Rayon
Flared shorts in zebra print. Curve shaped silhouette. Hook and eye closure on the waistband. Front zip fly closure. Welt back pockets. High waisted. Fully lined. Materils: 100% Haircalf Lining: 100% Viscose
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SUMMARY To summarize, Loeil is a very small designer label offering limited edition designs every season. I analyzed Loeil brand’s designs and use of color that really helped me while designing my collection. This brand tailoring and attention to detail are impeccable. They use relatively good fabrics: linen, wool, cotton, polyester, considering the price point. What I really liked about this brand is its use of color and different textured fabrics, as this gives dimension to the collection. Loeil is a very feminine brand. All silhouettes are feminine and flattering to the body, accentuating women figures. Designs also have that vintage aesthetics with a modern touch.
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ABOUT THE BRAND Cos is a Swedish fashion brand that delivers modern and functional designs. This brand offers reinvented classics and wardrobe essentials, they create pieces that are made to last beyond the season. Traditional methods and new techniques merge to form timeless, understated collections. Quality is a very strong point within this brand, making it seem more exclusive, however, they offer high-quality garments at affordable prices, which makes this brand unique. Its main values are modern and timeless designs with a minimalistic feel. “At Cos, we want to propose a style inspired by architecture, graphics, design and arts” explains women’s wear designer Karin Gustaffson. COS is a fashion brand for women and men who want modern, functional, considered design.
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COLLECTION A/W 2020
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Cos autumn-winter collection is very minimal with neutral tones. The tailoring is brilliant, even though it looks simple it has that clean modern look, which makes it appear more luxurious. Cos is known for its simple a bit oversized silhouettes, long, A-lined lined dresses and skirts, therefore this collection is no different.
Minimal Neat finishing Fabric manipulation Draping Tailoring
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COLLECTION S/S 2020
Their Spring/Summer collection is much brighter and tight-fitting. Usually, cos color palette consists only of neutral tones, however, in this collection we can see pops of bright colors like blue, red. Such pops of color liven up this collection, especially because the main colors are neutral, brighter colours add that extra touch. In terms of silhouette, it is very long, A-line, with a lot of layering and draping on the body, which gives that feminine look.
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Feminine silhouettes Tight fit Neat finishing Brighter colours Fabric manipulation Draping Tailoring
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USP Usp of Cos brand is definitely their high-quality fabrics and perfect tailoring. This brand offers all of that for a very affordable price, making this brand stand out. Even though they design minimal pieces, they are very well developed to fit the body. And their use of very good quality fabrics, makes their garments last a long time.
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FABRICS AND Outerwear
69£ - 350£ Wool,Merino wool, Cotton, Linen, Leather
Wool mix trench coat 180£ Main material: 54% Polyester, 46% Wool
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Dresses
39£ - 350£ Cotton, Linen, Silk, Leather, Polyamide
Asymmetric dress 79£ Main material: 100% Polyamide
Loose shirt 59£ Main material: 100% Cotton
Shirts, blouses 35£ - 350£ Cotton, Linen, Leather, Silk
PRICE RANGE Jumpsuits
59£ - 135£ Wool, Linen, Silk
Belted jumpsuit 89£ Main material: 100% Cotton
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Rounded cotton trousers 69£ Main material: 100% Cotton
Wrap skirt 79£ Main material: 100% Cotton
Skirts
50£ - 250£ Cotton, Linen, Leather, Silk
Trousers
40£ - 290£ Cotton, Linen, Leather, Silk, Wool
DETAILS Light showerproof material. Metal push buttons along the front. Flap pockets. Adjustable drawstring at the waist and hood. Materials: 53% Polyamide, 47% Cotton Coating: 100% Polyurethane
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Versatile outerwear. This raincoat has a large inside compartment that turns it into a backpack for easy transportation.
Belt loops. Hidden front zip and hook placket. Two slanted side pockets. Welt pocket at the back. Darts at the side seams. Materials: 98% Cotton, 2% Elastane
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Innovative with a classic edge. Made from cotton, these trousers have 3D wrapped seams at the leg to create a voluminous effect.
SUMMARY
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To summarise, Cos is a quite different brand from others that I choose, as it stands in between the designer and high street. Price points of this brand are definitely lower than other competitors I chose, however, this brand offers a luxury minimal designs with high-quality fabrics, which sets this brand apart from other similar brands. Because Acne Studios is the brand that Cos look up to, I thought it is a good brand to analyze, as I am creating Acne Studios diffusion collection, that is more affordable than Acne’s main collections, placing it at a similar price and market-level as Cos. Analysing this brand helped me to make fabric, and design choices creating my own collection.
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ABOUT THE BRAND JW Anderson is a British fashion label, founded by Jonathan Anderson. Its unique design aesthetic offers a modern interpretation of masculinity and femininity by creating thought-provoking silhouettes. JW Anderson has evolved into an internationally renowned and award-winning brand. In the past accolades have included British Fashion Awards for ‘Emerging Talent, Ready-to-Wear’ (2012), ‘The New Establishment Award’ (2013) and ‘Menswear Designer of the Year’ (2014). Most recently at the 2015 British Fashion Awards the brand received an historic double award for ‘Menswear’ and ‘Womenswear Designer of the Year’, the first time any brand has ever won both prestigious awards. Most recently, at the 2017 British Fashion Awards the brand received the award of ‘Womenswear Designer of the Year’.
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COLLECTION JW Anderson Autumn-Winter collection is very dramatic and full of textures. Feminine silhouettes are mixed with oversized masculine shapes, to get that unique look. This collection has a lot of ruffles and layering within the outfits, which gives more dimension. In terms of color, the color palette is more earthy tones like green, beige, white with pops of colorful ditsy prints in pink, green colors.
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A/W 2020
Draping Tailoring Ruffles Layering Textures Masculine silhouette with feminine details
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COLLECTION S/S 2020
JW Anderson Spring-Summer collection is much brighter and more feminine. With a lot of draping and layering within the outfits. This collection has some unique tailored garments, that add a sophisticated touch to the otherwise very feminine and flow collection. The Colour palette of this collection is much lighter with blue, white, beige shades. Ir also has a lot of print, ditsy flower prints that add dimension and interest to the collection.
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Print Layering Fabric manipulation Draping Tailoring
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USP One of this brand’s Usp is definitely their print. All collections include a unique, usually ditsy floral print, in brighter colors. Sometimes they have more abstract prints as we can see in the picture below. Another Usp of this brand is its unique shape and cut off their garments. The tailoring and finishing is very advanced which gives that luxury feel and sets this brand apart.
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FABRICS AND Outerwear
300£ - 1400£ Virgin Wool, Merino wool, Cotton, Leather
Cape trench coat 1400£ Main material: 100% Virgin Wool
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Skirts
200£ - 580£ Cotton, Linen, Silk
Handkerchief skirt 290£ Main material: 100% Cotton
PRICE RANGE Dresses
300£ - 954£ Cotton, Silk, Polyester Fluid drape dress 550£ Main material: 100% Polyester
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Shirts, blouses 100£ - 545£ Cotton, Polyester
Draped front top 325£ Main material: 100% Polyester
Wide leg trousers 400£ Main material: 58% Viscose, 22% Silk, 20% Metal Poly
Trousers
160£ - 690£ Cotton, Silk, Wool, Polyester, Viscose
DETAILS Double breasted. Bell sleeves. Horn buttons. Contrast grid coating details. Contrast black lining. Shower resistant. Heavy-weight. Breathable. Water repellent finishing.
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Material: 100% Cotton Lining: 100% Viscose
The two-tone capri belted trousers. An asymmetric handkerchief drape detail on different lengths of wool for a contemporary, summer silhouette. Large belt with oversized buckle. Neat finishing.
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Material: 100% Virgin wool
Striped cotton fabric features seven different yarn colours for a faded rainbow effect. A sophisticated colour palette used for our exaggerated sleeve shirt. Exaggerated sleeve cuffs. Half button stand.
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Material: 100% Cotton
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Asymmetry dreped dress. Low back. Layered. Neat finishing. No fastenings. Cowl neckline.
Material: 100% Polyester
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SUMMARY To summarise, JW Anderson is definitely a luxury and most expensive brand out of all of the competitors I chose. However, exploring this brand helped me to see the difference in the market, and think of ways how I can develop my designs in a luxurious way like this brand, but still stay in the budget lines as my other competitors. JW Anderson brand has impeccable tailoring and cuts of their garments. Their draping techniques look feminine and fit the body perfectly. The use of fabric and color further compliment their designs. In addition, this brand uses a lot of prints within their collections. Its usually ditsy floral prints, but they add more interest to the collections and make them stand out.
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CONCLUSION For this project, I chose to do a diffusion line for the Acne Studios brand. In my FMP I have done in-depth research on Studios brand, therefore I already had an understanding of how the designer level market works. However, because I chose to do a diffusion line, for my competitors I chose a bit more affordable brands. Therefore my main competitors were Cos and Loeil. I also researched one luxury designer brand JW Anderson, as this brand is a very strong Acne studios competitor and has similar designs and aesthetics as I was going for with this project. I would say my diffusion line sits in between Cos and Loeil brand in terms of price point and fabric choices. Researching Cos brand helped me to make better choices while choosing my fabrics for the collection, as Cos uses only high-quality natural fabrics, I was able to distinguish and choose the most suitable fabrics for my designs. Loeil is a small designer brand, with limited edition garments. Their choice of color and textures of fabrics really inspire me to experiment more within my collection. And lastly, I wanted to research another luxury brand, therefore I choose JW Anderson. Their layering and cut of their garments are really unique and inspiring. This brand also has a wide range of prints, researching their silhouette and use of prints helped me to understand what scale and color prints work better on different garments. Overall this market report helped me to understand the market I am entering with this collection and make better and more informed choices in the fabrics and color of my collection.
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REFERENCES https://www.acnestudios.com/dk/en/home https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acne_Studios http://magazine-b.com/en/acne-studios/ https://theloeil.com https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj3nr7ztorqAhWKh7IKHXT2DVQYABAAGgJscg&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQeD25DrFThWGjqu-E-a4AlQPetZwz-Ebf0wULbxiOZAvVJ0urHmi8025kVQXzq1pJsZtjtaKMmg7Ugu8a-68S9da&sig=AOD64_1INqnVFqpZvp-j1Zo75ga0TE1UeA&q=&ved=2ahUKEwijhLLztorqAhVFr3EKHQ4tB6QQ0Qx6BAgMEAE&adurl= https://www.jwanderson.com/gb/ https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows https://www.wgsn.com/fashion
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