ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

We are grateful to many supporters including Kim Martindale, Jamie Compton –James Compton Gallery, Michael Higgins

Michael D. Higgins Antique Indian Art, Mark & Linda Winter – Toadlena Trading Post, Scott Gutting and Leslie Jones, Nancy Briggs, and Gerald Tomlinson.

Preface

The exhibit described in this catalogue examines aspects of the manufacture and use of historic textiles in the American Southwest. The subject is approached from the perspective of technology, i.e. how textiles are made, rather than from the of iconography of textiles A number of "traditional" garments are only seen today as components of ceremonial regalia, especially textiles using embroidered and brocaded designs applied to a plain-woven fabric While manufacturing techniques lead to a multiplicity of design variations, textiles with representational designs, specifically those produced for ceremonial purposes are not included here.

Pueblo iconography is highly complex, many layered, and with deep cultural significance. A discussion of these topic is thus outside of the purview of this book

The range of historic Southwestern textiles as defined here are those dating from the 17th through the 20th centuries. It is intended as an overview of the subject, highlighting key aspects of the subject, and is by no means comprehensive. While Native American have been producing textiles since time immemorial, this look into textiles focuses on three primary historic cultural traditions; two of which are Native American, the Dinè (Navajo) and Pueblo world of what is now Arizona and New Mexico, with the third being Hispanic textiles from New Mexico that derive from Spanish and Mexican precursors. In a number of cases cultural cross-over from one of these traditions to the other(s) will be highlighted.

This book is oriented toward the general reader and, to the extent possible avoids jargon, technical terms, and footnotes. We have identified key weaving terms in the body of the text, as well as included a number of illustrations. In addition, a comprehensive bibliography contains a detailed listing of background and source material relevant to the topics in this book. Items and photographs included as part of the exhibition are identified as "Photo x" and "Exhibit x", while images seen only in this catalogue are identified as figures.