Dotty Griffith Recipe

The Lomo (left) and Sea Bass Civiche (right) at Te Deseo.

By Dotty Griffith dotty.griffith@yahoo.com

When it comes to restaurant opera, a tomahawk ribeye rates a “Bravo!” just about every performance.

At Te Deseo, the 36- ounce Ribeye Chuleton is an aria and final combat scene rolled into one gorgeous beef steak attached to a two-foot arching rib bone. This steakhouse battle axe is served on a mini butcher block embedded with an oversized, polished meat cleaver to prop the charred bone skyward. Seriously, after this dramatic presentation was put before us, incoming guests stopped on the way to their tables to ask what it was and get some photos headed to Instagram of the steak. People seated at nearby tables stared. I heard murmurs of, “I’ll have what she’s having.”

Dallas diners are accustomed to steak and seafood restaurants, often typecast as steakhouses with fish or seafood restaurants with steak. Despite the drama of the ribeye, that’s not the schtick at Te Deseo where Katy Trail Weekly was invited for a menu tasting.

REBECC A ADLER

The dishes we tried, like the menu, represent a culinary tour of Latin America. Te Deseo, the eighth restaurant in Uptown’s Harwood District development, serves Mexican enchiladas and tacos, tiraditos (Peruvianstyle sashimi influenced by Japanese immigrants), Gulf and Pacific coast ceviche (chunks of fresh seafood in citrus marinade), South American anticuchos (woodfired skewers of marinated chicken, shrimp and beef), Plato Común, which are share plates such as guacamole, stuffed arepas and Asian fusion bites and De Leña Mar + Tierra, an individual main course from the land and sea cooked over a wood fire. Also featured are parrilladas (family plates of impressive meat cuts, including the tomahawk ribeye), and of course, dulces, traditional and street-style desserts.

Executive Chef Ty Thaxton’s menu was influenced primarily by cuisines from Argentina, Brazil, Mexico and Peru. “We are presenting dishes that might be a little unexpected and different but are still relatable and crave-able,” he explained.

Because of the breadth and depth of the menu, it is easier to eat your way around with a party of six or eight. Or you can focus and have a divine dinner for two by simply sharing a couple of dishes. Here’s my duo strategy, based on the dishes tasted.

Begin with sea bass ceviche, served the Peruvian way with popcorn, tortilla and plantain chips on the side for a bit of crunch. The marinated snow-white pieces of sea bass are steeped in coconut milk along with pieces of green apple, red onion, serrano chile, grilled corn, avocado, cilantro and lemongrass. The combination is creamy yet spicy, crisp yet comforting, colorful and pertly accented with hints of citrus flavor.

Then go straight for the 36-ounce Ribeye Chuleton, easily enough for two. Also, enough for a big table to share with other dishes.

If you want some sides, try these. Arroz Chaufa may best be described as paella meets fried rice. Garlicky rice with carnitas, shrimp, chunks of scrambled egg along with zucchini, roasted corn and avocado. The dish impressed me as brilliant fusion, lots of contrasting, melded flavors zigzagging around my palate.

Fans of elote, roasted street corn, will find a “next level” version with saffron aioli, chunks of mild fresh red chile and cotija cheese on top. With plenty of lime, this dish soars.

The interior is as dramatic as the menu. Sultry lit dining rooms pop with red roses surprisingly inserted throughout the décor. A tiled courtyard and rooftop with a stunning overlook of the city offer variety in setting and mood.

The bar offers more than 100 tequilas and mezcals along with cocktails that draw on Latin American spirits including cachaça in the Brazillionaire, aguardiente in the La Calena and pisco in three cocktails, including a Lavender Pisco Sour.

Te Deseo translates to “I wish you.” I wish for a Lavender Pisco Sour, seabass ceviche and Ribeye Chuleton. Go ahead, make your wish.

TE DESEO 2700 Olive St. in the Harwood District Dallas, 75201 214-646-1314 tedeseodallas.com

Tasso Croquettas at Te Deseo.

By Dotty Griffith dotty.griffith@yahoo.com

Rebecca Adl er

Crispy, cheesy and hammy with a little bite of jalapeno, these ham and potato fritters served with a creamy roasted garlic sauce are on the menu at Te Deseo restaurant. With or without a dipping sauce, these mouthfuls make for happy eating and are a great way to use leftover mashed potatoes. Or simply bake, peel and mash a couple of potatoes if you don’t have any leftovers.

TE DESEO CROQUETAS

2 1/2 tablespoons butter 1 scallion, white part only, finely chopped 1/2 cup flour 1 cup whole milk 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 2 1/2 cups Tasso (Cajun-style) ham, very finely chopped 2 cups mashed potatoes 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten 3/4 cup Parmesan Cheese, grated 1 jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped 1 cup flour, or as needed 4 eggs, beaten 2 cups Panko breadcrumbs Vegetable oil for frying

In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the butter. Add the scallions, then the flour. Stir until a smooth paste forms.

Gradually stir in milk until thickened and smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the salt and pepper.

Add the ham, stir well and remove from heat. Whisking rapidly, add the egg yolks, cheese and j jalapeño. Return to the heat and whisk until well blended. Scrape the mixture into a dish, cover and refrigerate overnight. To form croquettes, shape 1/3 cup of the mixture into a ball. Roll each ball lightly in the flour. Pat each ball into a smooth oval patty or into a cone or a rod shape. Dip each croquette briefly into the beaten eggs. Dip into the breadcrumbs to coat all sides. Place on a plate. Repeat until all croquettes are shaped. To a large heavy stockpot over medium high heat, add 2 1/2 inches oil and heat to 375 F on a deep-fry thermometer. Working in batches to avoid crowding, fry croquettes, turning once, until dark golden brown for 1 to 2 minutes.

Use a slotted spoon to transfer fried croquettes to paper towels to drain. Adjust heat as needed to keep oil at a steady temperature. Serve warm. Makes about 16 croquettes.

BAKERY cont'd from page 1

However, her studies have not necessarily been pragmatic in her new venture. “I suppose sociology, in studying how people interact,” Ball said, “but I really don't feel like it applies much to this.”

She considered law school, medical school or becoming a physician assistant. “I always wanted to be something bigger,” Ball remembered. “So, I was definitely thinking about more traditional jobs.” Upon returning to Dallas, she attended med school but personal issues required her to make a change.

Not classically trained, her culinary skills are self-taught. “I preferred to cook for myself,” Ball said. “And when I started this, I wanted to be a caterer because I enjoy healthier foods. But baked goods are easier to sell. I could never really figure out how to sell myself as a caterer and with baked goods, I could bake up samples.

“I ended up working at a coffee shop and I really liked it,” Ball said, “but it is difficult to own that, because I didn't think that it was good enough. I thought I needed to do something more traditional, that paid better and that my parents would approve of.” She began to study friends who were in non-traditional jobs like

artists and musicians. “As I watched them,” Ball said, “I just decided to enjoy what I was doing. That’s what gave me the bug.” She started making pastries primarily for coffee shops and catered small events, but she enjoyed the satisfaction of selling her wares directly to people.

Ball started out catering through her Naturally Curly Cook business. She found that the biggest transition from meeting rooms to retail space was personnel. “I severely underestimated how many kitchen staff I needed to open up,” Ball said. “I am very grateful for the early success, but we are still understaffed. We have some new people starting.”

The 1,700-square-foot space now has its own kitchen in the back, easily viewed from the tables and window bench in the front of the house. And Leila has the rare commodity of convenient parking. “I've always had a

heart for Lakewood,” Ball said. “I had pursued other places, but we got pretty lucky when we found this one.”

Leila, open daily from 6:30 a.m. (7:30 on weekends), is named after Ball's significant other's aunt, who provided a splashy light fixture over the cashier.

A young-looking 35, Ball wants to have a child, but the balance of starting a café and starting a family is a bit overwhelming. “I would like to have kids, but this is my baby right now,” Ball said. “At least that is what I am telling my parents.”

Just Found is an occasional series featuring unique people and places in Dallas.