The Naki, like no other Strathmore Saddle, Mt Taranaki.
Taranaki combines the charm of rural New Zealand with the sophisticated provincial appeal of New Plymouth. With Jetstar adding Auckland to New Plymouth flights and Govett-Brewster Art Gallery adding the Len Lye Collection, SARAH WEEKS finds there’s a whole lot more to discover in this unique region.
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rom Taranaki’s picture-perfect mountain, to the sparkling sea along the coast; there’s countless opportunity to explore, discover and experience this region’s magnificent gardens, rich Maori heritage and numerous fine art galleries. New Plymouth is one of the few cities in New Zealand where you can be relaxing on the beach one minute and climbing up a mountain the next. And more Kiwis than ever will now have access to New Plymouth with Jetstar’s new service from Auckland – with New Plymouth Airport adding a temporary Jetstar terminal building to support the launch of the new service. For those planning a city break, Huatoki Apartment provides a beautiful living space
right in the heart of the central business district. Situated in the historic Colliers Building, dating from the late 19th century, this comfortable, modern accommodation is on Huatoki Square, Devon Street – the city’s main street. The best cafes, bars, galleries and shopping are right on the doorstep of this spacious apartment, which is fully-furnished with two double bedrooms (one small mezzanine) and a well-equipped kitchen. There’s plenty of room for you to spread out and feel right at home and there’s also double-glazing to keep you warm at night. The apartment is ideal for up to four people wanting to experience all New Plymouth has to offer. Just a short stroll away is the awardwinning Coastal Walkway running 11km from
the port and all the way to Bell Block – ideal for walking, running, cycling or simply enjoying views of the dramatic west coast. The famous Len Lye designed art piece known as the Wind Wand, is a kinetic sculpture well worth a visit, particularly at night. Also not to be missed is Pukekura Park, one of New Zealand’s leading botanical gardens featuring bush walks, formal gardens, lakes, play areas, sporting facilities and a tea house over 52 hectares. In July last year, the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery added to its collection the work of pioneering filmmaker and kinetic sculptor Len Lye. This globally significant collection and archive of more than 18,000 items was the culmination of more than three decades’
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work to find a permanent home for Lye’s work, celebrating the genius of his contemporary art. The appropriately named Len Lye Centre is New Zealand’s first institution dedicated to a single artist and is the world centre for the care, exhibition, research and development of the art and ideas of Len Lye. Featuring his work in kinetic sculpture, film, painting, drawing, photography, batik and writing – his work pops, flips and zazzles! Adjacent to the GovettBrewster is international art cafe Monica’s Eatery, inspired by the life and spirit of Monica Brewster, a globetrotter even before the golden age of air travel and founding patron of the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Monica’s provides an exceptional food experience in a comfortable and edgy environment that draws on re-purposed materials. Diners can enjoy a hearty meal of wood-fired angus scotch fillet with French fries and béarnaise or a simple salad of warm lentil, crispy pancetta, avocado, baby spinach, Zany Zues halloumi and freerange poached egg. For good food and drink in a relaxed and comfortable environment, Joe’s Garage on the corner of Devon Street East and Gover Street offers a selection of brunch, burgers and thin-based, custom-made pizzas, cooked to perfection in a purpose-built pizza oven. They’re fully licensed with Steinlager Super Cold, Speight’s and Isaac’s Cider on tap, along with a Marlborough Sauvignon and Pinot Noir poured straight from the barrel. Classic dishes include Chicken Joe, a chicken breast stuffed with herbs, lemon and cream cheese with Joe’s slaw, gravy and mash or stan the wallet, a sirloin with caramelised onions, Joe’s slaw, garlic butter and chips. The Black Harp is one of New Plymouth’s most popular Irish pubs – a place where people can come together and have a card
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game or two or listen to live music. Those spending a night down here will be sure to have a whale of a good time. The restaurant sports a cosy yet stylish look and is famed for its friendly staff and delicious pub-style menu, such as the legendary chicken, leek and potato pies; or family-style roast of the day with all the trimmings. There is often live Irish entertainment and happy hour is always around the corner. While it’s only 150km long, the Forgotten World Highway is a memorable driving journey. Built on colonial bridle paths formed in the late 19th century, the highway is remote and mysterious. It can be approached from Stratford or Taumarunui and wriggles its way over four mountain saddles through an eerie one-lane tunnel and crooked river gorge. Eastern Taranaki Experience guides Carol and Dave Digby have nearly 40 years local tramping experience, so know the highway like the back of their hands. Operating since September 2001, they run tramping and cycling tours and Stratford Heritage Lodge accommodation – providing package deals for transport and transfers. Their small tour groups allow more quality interaction with the guide and they use comfortable, air-conditioned vehicles. It’s a long day driving, but they make extra stops with optional guided walks to break up the trip. They’re also Taranaki tourism and hospitality award winners so you know you’re in the best hands. During the tour there is a visit to the Douglas Brickworks site and Te Wera for morning tea where there is a lesson about the forestry history and a visit to the camp site (now an Education Centre). The highway leads to the small historic village of Whangamomona, where there is time to wander around this place full of character and enjoy lunch at the hotel. Interestingly, Whangamomona declared itself a
March 2016, Travel Digest
PHOTO: Patrick Reynolds
TARANAKI
Len Lye Centre.
Forgotten World Highway.
Fully licensed transport operators, operating in Central and Eastern Taranaki for 14 years 2 times Winner of Taranaki Tourism Awards Small Business Commended Award in 2015
PHOTO: Rob Tucker
republic in 1989 and visitors can get a passport from the local hotel. The tour makes it’s way further east to the heart of the Tangarakau Gorge to see the 74-metre Mount Damper Falls, one of the highest waterfalls in the North Island, in the lovely Moki Forest. There’s also the historic 180-metre Moki Tunnel, built in the 1930s that goes through the heart of the hill. The Whangamomona Saddle provides spectacular views of native beech and podocarp forest. Before returning to Stratford, there’s a side road leading to the historic Bridge to Somewhere. Carol and Dave are also agents for Forgotten World Adventures, a tourism
Wind Wand kinetic sculpture, Coastal Walkway, New Plymouth. venture allowing people to travel along a decommissioned railway line in a self-driven rail cart (ex-golf cart) through tunnels and over bridges and rivers to townships that have faded into the past. Using an abandoned railway line, local Ian Balme, thought it’d be a great idea to put railway wheels on a golf cart to let tourists drive down – the ultimate in Kiwi ingenuity and a great way to explore rural New Zealand. While in Stratford, it is worth visiting the Taranaki Pioneer Village. Open every day from 10am to 4pm, visitors can take a nostalgic stroll through yesteryear and experience this outdoor museum presenting the life of Taranaki pioneers in the 19th and 20th centuries. This attraction has appeal to all ages as you step back in time when you enter the village main street. And no visit would be complete without taking a ride on the Pioneer Express train – a fun way to view the property – giving the opportunity to see what Stratford’s hospital, courthouse, jail and school used to look like and also visit the village barber, print shop and bookbinder. The Tawhiti Museum in Hawera is a unique experience filled with life-size exhibits and scale models presenting Taranaki’s heritage in a series of realistic and engaging displays.
TARANAKI Created by artist Nigel Ogle, his attention to detail is simply stunning with all models designed and built on site. Directly opposite the front door of the museum nestled under trees is the themed Mr Badger’s Café, providing a welcoming environment to relax and enjoy a coffee and freshly baked home cooking. The use of delightful dioramas based on the characters from the Wind in the Willows helps set the scene and mood of the café. The Tawhiti Bush Railway is a half-hour train ride showing the logging railways that used to operate in Taranaki. With life-size figures and buildings along the line and an interpretation centre set in a reconstructed sawmill at the end of the track, this ride is a favourite attraction at the museum. Their newest attraction Traders & Whalers is an innovative historical presentation of the Taranaki coast in the 1820 to 1840 period. Illuminated only by the twinkling of lanterns and candles, this boat ride drifts through an eerie world. Distant birds call and water drips from mossy banks as burly sailors barter with local Maori for pork, potatoes and flax in return for European goods – especially that most sought-after item, ✈ the flintlock musket.
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