Kunzum Travel Mag - May 2012 by Kunzum - The Travel Mag

www.kunzum.com

Issue 8 | May 2012

Kaziranga National Park

The Best Wildlife Reserve in India

Karnataka

Halebeedu & Belur

Delhi

Spice Market Retro Bollywood

Thailand

Celebrating Songkran, the Water Festival

Club Kunzum is Launched

Assam

Kunzum has been one big happy community of travel lovers for a while now - it is time we strengthened the ties further. With Club Kunzum.

Karnataka

Travels will never be the same again

What is the club all about? It is a paid program where members go on trips together, exchange travel stories, shoot pictures and more! And get great deals along the way. Members get to participate in exclusive events and activities including heritage walks, photo workshops, cycling tours, food walks, film screenings, photo walks, travel talks, weekend drives and more. We have already ties up with over 100 quality hotels and travel companies - many more are expected to be added to the list. Why did we set up this club? Individually, we often fall short of holiday ideas and company to go with. The club would provide an opportunity for like-minded individuals to come together, make plans and head out on trips. And since there are only so many days in a year that our schedules allow us to travel, the club will keep members engaged in travel related activities (including city excursions, and weekend getaways) so the itch to travel is satisfied somewhat. Regular activities also mean you get to socialize with other travel enthusiasts, in a way even Facebook cannot do for you. The club could also be a great stress-buster, motivate one to give their best at work, and be at their happiest self at home. At Kunzum, we love to come up with new ideas and get super excited about these. It started with Kunzum.com as a travel blog on India in 2007. We went on to publish travel books ourselves, and in the process created a new template for this genre. And then came the Kunzum Travel Café - a successful example of a unique concept that became popular only because of you, the travel community. And we have the Club Kunzum now - it is early days yet but we can already feel a tingling in our bones. Join us. We promise you travels will never be the same again. *Unless mentioned, all articles and photographs in this issue are by Ajay Jain

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Contents

- Kaziranga National Park

- Halebeedu and Belur

Delhi - Khari Baoli Spice Market 28 - Enjoying Bollywood, the Retro Way 32

Thailand - Celebrating Songkran, the Water Festival

Hotel Reviews - Singinawa Jungle Lodge, Kanha National Park, M.P - Forsyth’s Lodge, Satpura National Park, M.P

44 50

Stuff - Sketch Feature 56 Travel Pix 59

Team Kunzum CTO (Chief Travelling Officer): Ajay Jain - He also hogs the driver’s seat

CEO (Chief Editorial Officer): Anubhuti Rana - Prefers being on the passenger seat on the highways

CDO (Chief Design Officer): Supreet J Bargi - Also Chief Desk Officer, that’s where he is stuck when others travel

CSO (Chief Sales Offices): Apurbo Banerjee - He will sell anything to you

Lead - Club Kunzum: Shilpa Gupta - The legal eagle who is siding with travellers now

Eventfully Yours: Swati Sharma - Your events manager

Everything Officer: Samridhi Minocha - Has to put on all shoes, having fun doing so

for FREE at

http://kunzum.com/mag available as PDF & for the iPad & Kindle 2

Kaziranga National Park,

Assam

About Kaziranga National Park Kaziranga was a huge swamp at one time with a sizeable population of animals, and a favourite hunting ground of local tribes and hunters. It was also a high risk malarial region, and prone to frequent flooding and being ravaged by the moody Brahmaputra river changing course every now and then. In 1908, Lord Curzon’s proposal to declare the area a reserve forest was accepted and hunting banned to protect the dwindling animal numbers. Kaziranga was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1950, and its status upgraded to that of a national park in 1974. It was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985. The park is the oldest in the Assam area, covering an area of 860 sq. kms (332 sq. miles), lying in the flood plains of the Brahmaputra river with the Karbi Anglong hills to the South. Park Zones Kaziranga is divided into four zones for tourists: * Kohora or Central Range, the largest of all. The annual elephant festival is held in this range every year. * Baghori or Western Range, one of the smaller zones of the park with a terrain similar to Kohora. It also has one of the highest density of rhinos. * Agaratouli or Eastern Range is one least frequented by tourists, thus increasing one’s chances of bird and animal sightings who enjoy the relatively disturbance free zone. * Burhapahar Range is a recent addition. animals in Kaziranga One-Horned Rhinoceros, Asiatic Wild Buffalo, Elephant, Swamp Deer, Hog Deer, Sloth Bear, Tiger, Leopard, Jungle Cats, Otters, Wild Boar, Pythons, Monitor Lizards. birds in Kaziranga Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-shouldered Kite, Black Kite, Brahminy Kite, Pallas’s Fish Eagle, White-tailed Eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Himalayan Griffon. Huge numbers of migratory birds descend on the park’s lakes and marshy areas during winters including Greylag Goose, Bar-Headed Goose, Ruddy Shelduck, Gadwall, Falcated Duck, Red-crested Pochard and Northern Shoveller.

Rhinos are all around you If you are out tracking the One-Horned Rhinoceros, Kaziranga is the place for you. They are to be found in abundance, and in all shapes, sizes, age and gender. The highlight of my Rhino sightings was a family of three – father, mother and their baby (almost as big as the mother though). Pity I missed capturing them all together in one frame on my camera, but I did witness a rare sight of the full family out together.

I came across the curious case of a mother Rhino who was trying to break ties

with her (much smaller in size) son. It was time for the latter to be on his own, so the mother could be free to mate again. The mother needed the privacy, but her son would go sniffing her out. Mama’s boy must be Italian! Will someone speak to the boy? This is his picture so you can identify him.

◄ The mama Rhino looking out for her son - she wants to shake him off!

The son persistently looking for his mother ►

▲ Mother and baby Rhino

Papa Rhino following a few steps behind ►

What my guide told me about the One-Horned Rhinoceros * Rhinos must be the only ‘potty trained’ animals. They all tend to go to designated spots when nature calls rather than treating the whole jungle as their toilet. Many rhinos share the same spot. * Rhinos weigh between 1,600 - 3,500 kilos (3,500 - 7,700 lb), sometimes even more. * The horn of an adult is about 25 cms (10 inches) long but some have horns upto twice as long. * These are found in greatest numbers in Kaziranga, with a population of close to 2,000 at last count. * Rhinos are generally loners, except when mothers are with their calves, or when they come together to breed. * They love to wallow in water bodies and puddles, and are very good swimmers. * They can run at speeds of upto 55 kmph (35 mph) - that sure can pack a lot of momentum when you consider their body weight. Stay out of their way when they are out for sprints. * Rhinos have a gestation period of about 16 months - that’s a long time to be carrying an oversized baby! * Female Rhinos give birth every 3-5 years. * A Rhino’s average lifespan is 40-45 years. 9

Spotted in Kaziranga

The Indian Roller sure knows how to be modest. It keeps its luminous feathers concealed till it flies, when metallic blue and light blue bands flash rom its wings. Its face and neck are streaked purple. It has an acrobatic,‘rolling’ flight during the breeding season. ►

◄ Great Indian Hornbill, also known as the Great Pied Hornbill, is one of the larger members of the hornbill family. It can be 95-120 cm long, with a wingspan of 150 cm and weight of 2.5 4 kilos. It eats mostly fruits but will also prey on small mammals, reptiles and birds. They can have life spans of 35 - 50 years!

Green-billed Malkoha: Belongs to the Cuckoo family – and a rare find according to my guide. Cuckoos are known to feed on insects, and lay their eggs in nests of birds much smaller than themselves. ►

◄ Rose-ringed Parakeets are not parrots as are commonly referred to in India. Males have a black and pink line running from throat to neck. Their call is a loud ‘ki-ki-ki-ki.’

The Red-breasted Parakeet, the only of the species with a pink breast. Parakeets are long tailed, green, screeching and chattering birds of gardens and parks and feed on fruits, flowers and seeds. ►

◄ The Red Junglefowl, an obvious ancestor of the domestic rooster. Notable features are its red facepatch and comb, black underparts and sickleshaped tail.

Purple Swamphen: Spotted a big group on the way to the Gibbon sanctuary. When out in the open, it exposes its glitzy plumage; when in cover it has a rich repertoire of screams, screeches, hoots and chuckles. Belonging to the family of Crakes, who are more heard than seen, they are usually found in marshlands. Their diet consists mainly of insects, amphibians, fish and plant material. They are short-tailed and large-footed, and walk with a jerking tail movement. ►

◄ Wild Water Buffalo: I saw this buffalo get into the water from the opposite bank of a lake, and she floated / swam across close to where I was standing. It was fun to capture it frame-by-frame as it waded closer to the shore – both of us seemed to be eyeing each other as I took steps to get closer. Fortunately, I didn’t scare her and she did not come after me.

◄ Spotted a Malayan Giant Squirrel in the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary

Spotted some Otters – even though from a distance through binoculars – for the first time in my life. ▼

Chasing Gibbon apes, the only of their kind in India

I woke up all excited at five in the morning to head out to the Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary near Jorhat in Assam. The day started with a small blip: my guide was missing. I had to go to his house and wake him up – it turned out he had slept late after a night of theatre and drinking with friends. Apparently, he decided to party with the generous tip I had given him the previous evening. But the guide was good. He had made advance arrangements with another guide to locate the Gibbons and wait for us there. When I saw the family, I was a little disappointed: I was imagining they would look like those Great African Apes you see in National Geographic. I was even visualising sitting with them for photos – and feeding them bananas I had specially carried ►

◄ These Gibbons are much smaller, and a little bigger than monkeys. They were only to be seen on the upper branches of tall trees - they never come down – straining my neck a bit. I had to keep looking up, balancing a heavy zoom lens on my eyes to ensure I caught the moments. They were mostly camouflaged by leaves – and their complexion did not make photography easier. And when they would swing, they did so in the blink of an eye. But I did have fun following them for a few hours – even as I had to keep removing those damn leeches off me.

Here is an extract from the book Hoolock: The Ape of India by Dilip Chetry, Rekha Chetry and P.C. Bhattacharjee: “We were on the way to try spot the Hoolock Gibbons. Of all the species of apes, these are the representatives of apes in India. They not only resemble man in many ways, but also share 95 percent of genetic material with us. Gibbons are the smallest of all apes and are close to humans in intelligence and social structure. Of 350 species of primates, Gibbons are represented by 16 species. The Hoolock Gibbon found in the North East of India is one of them, and smaller than the Gorilla, Chimpanzee and Orangutan (Great Apes). Gibbon is thus referred to as the Lesser Ape, or even the Small Ape. They are also more primitive than their great counterparts. Being primates, Gibbons are also social in their behaviour. And are unique in having a monogamous social structure – the same male and female spend their lives together. They are also excellent acrobats. They dwell on canopies of forests – their longer forearms compared to the legs and bodies enable them to brachiate in the top strata of forests. (Brachiation is a form of movement in which primates move from one limb of a tree to another using only their arms. Gibbons can brachiate at speeds of up to 55 kmph (35 mph) and move 20 feet (6 m) in one swing. Gibbons are also protective of their home range, the area in which a family makes its habitat. Gibbons are frugivores – they eat fruits (ripe juicy ones) mostly, but also take in leaves, leaf buds, flowers, flower buds, petiole and animal protein (insects, bird eggs etc).“

Kaziranga - Travel Tips

* Accommodation: There is an abundance of accommodation at

Kaziranga, from budget to luxury.

* Getting there: Regular flights to Jorhat (96 kms / 60 miles) and

Guwahati (225 kms / 140 miles) away. Taxis and buses available from these cities. The drives from these airports are picturesque, taking you through tea estates and forests. Nearest railhead in Jorhat.

* Best time to visit: October to March. It is very hot towards endMarch and April, but sightings may be at their best. The park is

closed from mid-May to mid-October due to heavy rains. Tempera-

tures can touch 38 degrees Celsius in summers, and fall to 5 degrees in the winters.

* Safaris: You can book a jeep or an elephant for your safaris. 15

Halebeedu & Belur, Karnataka

The 12th century temples at Belur and Halebeedu, known for their fresh approach to design and intricate carvings, came to define a new style known as Hoysala art. Built by the Hoysala dynasty, these towns served as their capital cities, and marked a golden period of architecture in the region. The world would have been a poorer place without these structures. 18

The king used to visit the linga (a representation of Hindu God Shiva) through the southern doorway every morning; his palace was only about 200 metres away. â&#x2013;˛

Architecture and art of the Hoysalas The Hoysalas (10th - 14th century A.D.) rank amongst the finest of temple builders, with much of their works still standing for us to admire. Their reign saw the building styles evolve into the ornate and exuberant. They relied heavily on sculptural decoration, with large figures often dominating wall surfaces. Their main temples, like the ones at Belur and Halebeedu, marked a deviation from established building influences of the time. Soapstone came to be preferred over sandstone - the former allows itself to be readily worked upon for intricate and delicate carvings. And it hardens over time when exposed to the elements, thus giving it a long life - the buildings are almost a thousand years old already, and still standing.

The Hoysalas discarded the traditional cubical form and gave their temples a star-shaped design, radiating energy from within to the various arrows of the stellate plan. This shape also provided an increased surface area for the carvings. The several-tiered spires gave way to those constructed on flat planes, giving the effect of horizontality. Their temples consisted of a vimana (the shrine section) attached to a navaranga (a pillared hall with nine ceilings), and further attached to larger pillared halls. They added solid walls to the back corners of the navaranga, and doorways to the entrances of the pillared hall, thus making the interiors dark.

Halebeedu Halebeedu (also spelled Halebidu and Halebid) was the capital of the Hoysala dynasty during the reign of Vinayaditya, and inscriptions show it was also known as Dorasamudra and Dwaravathi. The town has the remains of many temples, palaces and basadis (Jain temples or shrines), but the best preserved are the Hoysaleshwara temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. Work on the Hoysaleshwara temples are believed to have started in 1121 under the directions of Ketamalla during Vishnuvardhana’s rule and completed by Kedaroja, the chief architect of Vishnuvardhana’s son and successor Narasimha I, in 1160. The temples have

been classified as a dvikuta or a two-shrined temple. In reality, the architects designed two identical temples on a common platform attached internally along the north-south axis of the pillared halls, each with monoliths of the Nandi bull. The Hoysalas perfected the art of the frieze. They systematized the arrangement of friezes in narrow horizontal bands; the exquisite, carefully carved and complex designs cover miles of surfaces in temples like the Hoysaleshwara. The recesses and projections were so arranged as to catch and reflect light, enhancing the beauty of the art.

◄ The southern doorway was guarded on either side by 6-feet high dvarpalikas distinguished by their third eye and fangs. They are decked with ornaments and the jata mukuta (headgear). An inscription on the lintel gives credit to the sculptor Kaladasi. The lintel itself is a large heavy slab, depicting Lord Shiva dancing on the body of Andhakasura. He is surrounded by the Nandi bull and musicians.

The Nandi bull, the chosen mount or vahana for Lord Shiva ►

â&#x2014;&#x201E; This image depicts Lord Vishnu in the avatar of a boar (Varaha) rescuing Goddess Earth from the ocean depths. Varaha is said to have battled Hiranyaksha, a demon, for a thousand years before prevailing over the latter; He then carried the Earth on his tusks and restored her to its place in the universe.

This sculpture depicts Lord Vishnu in the avatar of Narasimha, having the body of a man and the face and claws of a lion. He is seen here killing the demon, Hiranyakashipu. â&#x2013;ş

These friezes take the worshipper into a world of mythological content, depicting stories from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Bhagvad Gita. You can also see rows upon rows of elephants, lions, horses and swans and not one design is repeated mechanically. Look closely for stories of creation depicting the Gods churning the ocean of milk to get amrit or soma, the elixir of immortality;

there is another showing the battle between monkey warriors and brothers Sugriva and Bali, the latter killed by Lord Ramaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arrow to protect the younger sibling. The death of Abhimanyu, son of Arjuna, is depicted from the famous battle of Mahabharata as are others battles from the epic. Each of these convey a certain energy, seeming for real much to the credit of the sculptors. 21

The temple complex also has an impressive museum in three parts; two of these are open air galleries. Exhibits include wall sculptures, friezes, lintel units, inscribed pedestals, miniature figurines, gold coins, copper plates and wood carvings besides other excavations from

around the area. Sculptures include different forms of Shiva (Natraja, Bhairava etc.) and Vishnu (Madhava, Keshava, Ugranarasimha, Krishna etc.) besides those of dancing Parvati, Saraswati, Ganesha, Skandha, Brahma and of many Yakshas, Yakshis and Jain Tirthankaras.

The artist’s signature

Most of the artists would inscribe their signature on the sculptures they created during the Hoysala period. While no specific reasons are known, the most probable is pride in one’s work and taking responsibility for their creations.

▲ Inside the Hoysaleshwara Temple

A Jain statue in the same compound as the Hoysaleshwara Temple ►

Belur

The Hoysalas were busy building beautiful nuvardhana in 1116 to commemorate his temples in Belur even before they reached victories against the Cholas. It took 103 years to complete. The main deity of the temple is Halebeedu. Lord Chennakeshava. The father-son duo of Belur was the second capital of the dynasty, Dasoja and Chavana were the master craftsafter Sosevur and before Halebeedu. Popular- men of the temple. ly referred to as Dakshina Varanasi (Benares or Varanasi of the south), its other names The boundary wall and the gopuram or the were Velapuri, Velur and Belapur. Located on ornate entrance tower came up later, as did the banks of the Yagachi river, the Chennake- may other structures. Other temples within shava Temple is the central and most beauti- the compound include those dedicated to ful of all amongst the cluster of temples here. Kappe Chennigaraya, Saumyanayaki, Andal Originally called the Vijayanarayan Temple, it and other Vaishnavi manifestations. was consecrated by the then emperor Vish-

▲The emblem of the Hoysalas at the Chennakeshava Temple, commonly seen at all their temples. According to a myth, an ascetic was threatened by a tiger and uttered the words, ‘Poy Sala’ or ‘Hoy, Sala’ (Strike, Sala) - calling out to Sala, the legendary head of the Hoysala dynasty, to kill the tiger. The king struck the tiger and killed him; this heroic act gave the dynasty its emblem.

The temples at Belur also boast finely worked upon friezes of charging elephants, mythological figures, military scenes, dancers, musicians, and elaborate decorative motifs. Capturing one’s imagination are angled bracket figures of celestial nymphs; these beautiful

and expressive nymphs are depicted singing, dancing or carrying out daily chores. The detailing in their make-up, jewelry and coiffures are ashowcase of the labour of love of their artisans.

What happened to all those who conjured up magic in their creations?

◄ The Makara Torana or the southern doorway to the Chennakeshava temple

The Chennakeshava Temple ►

◄ Inside the Chennakeshava Temple

â&#x2013;˛The Veera Narayana temple has outer walls marked with sculptures of Vaishnava and Shaiva faiths. It stands on a raised platform and built around the same time as the Chennakeshava Temple.

The gopuram or the main entrance gate shaped like a tower â&#x2013;ş

Halebeedu and Belur - Travel Tips

* Getting there: Belur is 38 kms (24 miles) from Hassan, 22 kms (14 miles) from Chikmagalur, and about 227 kms (142 miles) from Bangalore. Halebeedu is 18 kms (11 miles) from Belur on the route to Bangalore. * Accommodation: Belur and Halebeedu have only low cost, poor quality hotels to stay in. For better options, stay at Hassan. * Best time to go: All year round.

DELHI

SPICE MARKET, KHARI BAOLI Cover your nose lest you sneeze This is one spicy market. Literally.

The Gadodia market is a four storeyed building with a square compound in Khari Baoli, dating back to the early 20th century. You name a spice, and it is available here. Including red chillies (raw and powdered), turmeric, salt, black salt, tamarind, cloves – the list is as endless as the variety of cuisines they are used in. Traders are mostly interested in wholesale customers, but you can always buy a small portion for yourself. If you can get through at all. The passages are milling with labour carrying sacks full of spices on their backs or hand-pulled carts; be careful lest you cause an accident. Walk up along one of the many flights of stairs to see more shops and offices till you reach the rooftops. From here, you can see all of Shahjahanabad, the city built by Mughal emperor Shahjahan now known as old Delhi. Below you is the Fatehpuri Mosque,

and far ahead are the Red Fort and Jama Masjid. The perspective changes. Walk out of the market into Khari Baoli and buy nuts at wholesale prices – these include raisins, almonds, cashewnuts, walnuts, peanuts and more. The more you explore, including the bylanes, the more you will find. You can buy slabs of soap in different colours and flavours by the kilo, rice, flour (there are mills who will grind it fresh for you), pickles, chutneys, cooking powders – wish for it, and someone will call out a price. Then you have shops selling sugar in all its variants – and you thought it came only powdered and granular? And when you have had your fill, pick up some betel leaves, betel nuts and rose chutney to make a paan for yourself – it’s a good digestive. If you have a sensitive nose or eyes that water easily, cover them well. 29

DELHI Enjoying BOLLYWOOD The Retro Way Before there were multiplexes, there was Moti cinema. In Chandni Chowk since 1938. And one of the few theatres in town to have retained its character over time. Fine, it may not appeal to one’s senses too much now, but give its old world charm a chance. The seats may be shaky, and the air not exactly smelling of roses, and violent and sexy scenes being received with hoots and whistles – but that is part of the fun! Starting with being ushered in with a torch to your seat all the way till you exit. And there is something else unique about Moti: it usually screens movies you will not get to see anywhere else. They are either low budget, masala B-grade movies featuring lesser known stars (or those past their prime with

no other employment avenues) or blockbusters of yesteryears that still manage an audience not connected to satellite television. Tickets cost Rs. 50 for a box (yes, few places where you get to sit in one), Rs. 40 for Balcony, Rs. 35 for Rear Stall, Rs. 30 for the Middle Stall and Rs. 20 for the front rows. And they have a separate queue for ladies – this often leads to strangers requesting ladies to buy tickets for them on crowded days to beat the rush. Interestingly, many distributors have their offices around Moti. At any given time, you can see film reels being transported between theatres along with posters and other publicity material. These circular cans may soon become a thing of the past with digital taking over.

Remember the time when your club would screen films in the open air using these same reels? You may want to organize a similar show for your friends while you still can. Request the distributors for some posters – they should not mind giving you a few! Until recently, Moti had Kumar cinema for company just a few metres away – but a recent takeover saw its name change to Abhishek. And renovated to give it a modern comfortable look – justifying a higher price of Rs. 100 for luxury class and Rs. 60 for silver. The old has been giving way to new all over town. But some still manage to evoke nostalgia despite their makeover. These include Golcha in Darya Ganj and Delite in Asaf Ali Road – all in old Delhi. There was a time when stars would drop in and mingle with the audience. Managements have saved black and

white photographs of the likes of Prithviraj Kapoor, Raj Kapoor, Shammi Kapoor, Nargis, Madhubala, Waheeda Rehman, Dev Anand, Dilip Kumar, Guru Dutt and Manoj Kumar. Request them and they may fish these out for you. And if you want another hidden ‘gem’ caught in a retro warp, go to Excelsior cinema in the Lal Quan / Hauz Qazi area. Popcorn will taste special at all these places!

Celebrating Songkran, the Water Festival on Thai New Year

A cart decorated with flowers outside Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha in Bangkok ►

If it’s Songkran, you must be in Thailand - all prepared to get wet! The festival marks the Thai New Year, and is a time for fun and prayers over extended holidays. Water is used during this time as a symbol of cleansing for the new year. Mornings see everyone washing their temples, houses, schools and offices with water for a fresh start. Thais go to monasteries to offer alms to Buddhist monks and to listen to their preaching. They also seek blessings by sprinkling water on images of the Buddha, and by building small sand pagodas. Scented water is sprinkled on family elders to get their blessings too.

◄ Young monks charging to throw water inside my car at Ayutthaya

And then the fun begins - mostly with water. ‘Gangs’ of mostly children and youth are to be found all over throwing water on each other and on passers-by. They can be seen standing at one spot, or moving around in small trucks, cars and bikes. All armed with water pistols and drums of water. You also have elephants joining in - spraying water with their trunks! The big mammals are also hired by youth to take them around as they splash water on others perched high up. The intensity of ‘warfare’ varies. Since Songkran falls during hot weather, no one minds getting wet. Some people also apply a white harmless paste on each other. And you have fairs too with food stalls (Thais love their food. Who wouldn’t? They offer terrific cuisines!), games and folk performances. Floral and religious processions and parades can be seen all over the country. It is time for fun all the way!

Happy Songkran!

▲ Decorations at Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha in Bangkok

A food, games and folk performances fair at Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha in Bangkok ▼

▲ Making sand pagodas at Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha in Bangkok 38

◄ A vendor at the floating market of Damnernsaduak near Bangkok - she has a water gun to look like an umbrella!

A procession passing along the floating market of Damnernsaduak near Bangkok ►

▲ A family having a good time at home near the floating market of Damnernsaduak near Bangkok A girl ‘shooting’ a water gun on passing boats near the floating market of Damnernsaduak near Bangkok ►

Buddhist monks at the prayer ceremony at Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha in Bangkok ►

◄ Children outside their home near the floating market of Damnernsaduak near Bangkok

▲ Children throwing water on passing vehicles and pedestrians in Ayutthaya

◄ A folk performance at Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha in Bangkok 40

◄ A truck decorated outside Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha in Bangkok

Songkran - Travel Tips * Be prepared to get wet. Even though no one is supposed to throw water on you without permission, don’t be surprised if someone does. * Wear clothing that will not spoil with water. White shirts are avoidable for those concerned about their modesty. * Carry money, cameras, mobiles and other valuables in waterproof covers. In fact, go around with as little on you as possible. * Don’t get upset or angry if someone wets you - take it in your stride. * Since Songkran means extended holidays for Thais, book hotels and flights well in advance as most are sold out. * Songkran is celebrated on different dates around Thailand, usually in April. Check for schedules as these can also change every year. It is spread over a few days at each location. 41

Hotel Review Singinawa Jungle Lodge Kanha National Park, Madhya Pradesh

Would you like some company over your morning or evening cup of tea? Then lay out the table; Papa deer, Mama deer and their four babies are all on the way.

This is just one of the perks when you check into the Singinawa Jungle Lodge at the Kanha National Park in Madhya Park. Set in 55 acres of a forested estate, the lodge is home to many animals and birds including the deer who roam around freely. And are often seen on the verandahs looking through the big glass panes into your cottage.

occasional leopard or tiger. Rooms are tastefully furnished and well maintained. Bedsheets, towels and other linen are of good quality and give a clean feel. Beds are super king size, as is the room. There are attached baths with a double vanity and running hot and cold showers. A fireplace, mini bar, tea and coffee making facilities, lounge sofas and workstations almost make it a fully equipped home. Housekeeping Singinawa is a Sherpa word for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Protectors of the Sa- does an excellent job in keeping the rooms spic and cred Forestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and was set up by conservationist couple span. Latika and Nanda Rana. Both of them are repositories of knowledge and experience, and are happy to * Food: The chefs prepare a variety of home cooked share all of it with their guests. You should use the meals, served in high quality crockery and cutlery. opportunity to chat them for insights into the natural The chef makes great muffins and cakes to go with world you have to gone to explore for yourself. the coffee and tea. You can also request for meal preferences. * The main building: Grand is the word for it, and you may be hard-pressed to think of another like this * The villages around: Do ask your hosts to arrange in any hotel or lodge. The ground floor has a dining for drives in the surrounding villages, where you get room with a long table for two dozen to feast togeth- to interact with the local population. Many of them er. There is a small deck should you want to dine in still follow lifestyles going back centuries; of course, candlelight closer to the greens. A double staircase it is mixed with modern influences but you will still takes you from the ground floor to the first. There is be transported back in time. another dining area with a bar and tables for smaller groups. This opens into a big terrace for meals to be * The Safaris: You go to Kanha for the safaris, and served in the open air. A sitting area has luxurious Singinawa is all geared for it. They have their own couches and a library full of books and magazines team of naturalists and well maintained 4x4 Gypsy you would love to read. This also opens onto a deck SUVs. Singinawa is located near the Mukki zone of if you want your tea served out. The walls are full Kanha; there are two others, Kisli and Kanha, zones of large prints of tigers - shot by Mr. Rana in India too. Insist that you are booked to go to the other and Nepal. You cannot but feel a sense of awe at the zones too if your stay is long enough. They may be a photography and a tinge of envy - who would not like longer drive away, but may be worth the effort. to see tigers and their cubs for real like the photographer did? * Other amenities: A swimming pool with deck chairs for sunning yourself. Masseurs are available on * Rooms: The 12 stone and slate cottages are some request at the spa offering Indian and Oriental treatof the best going around in the hospitality business. ments. A nature shop sells some great stuff to take Each stands in seclusion, surrounded by trees where back as gifts. intruders to your privacy are only the deer and the

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◄ A lounge cum library

The study in a cottage overlooking the greens ►

◄ A bedroom

The main building ►

◄ The deck to lounge around

The dining on the upper floor extending onto the terrace ►

◄ The double vanity in the bath and dressing area

◄ Steps going up in the main building; this tree is real and has always been on this spot. The building came around it.

▲ The dining

▲ Old photos of ‘shikars’ or hunts

Getting There

* By Train: Nearby railheads at include Gondia (110 kms), Jabalpur (203 kms), Nagpur (290 kms), Raipur (213 kms) and Bilaspur (182 kms). * By Air: Jabalpur, Nagpur and Raipur are all connected to the major cities in India. * By Road: Kanha is well connected by road - and can easily be made a part of different travel circuits in central India.

Lodge Address

Singinawa Jungle Lodge, Village Kohka, PO Baihar, Tehsil Baihar, District Balaghat-481111, Madhya Pradesh, India. Contact Persons: Nanda & Latika Rana Tel:+91.7636.256806 / 807 Email: info@singinawa.in Web: www.singinawa.in

Delhi Office

Singinawa Jungle Lodge, Kanha, U 26A/6, G F, DLF Phase III Gurgaon, Haryana 122 002 Tel:+91.124.2356004 2353697 / 2364697

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Hotel Review Forsythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lodge Satpura National Park, Madhya Pradesh

Tiger Tops in Nepal was long regarded as the gold standard for jungle lodges in the Indian subcontinent till political troubles took over the country. When former team members at Tiger Tops set up a lodge themselves, you can certainly expect some of the shine to show there too. It does so at Forsythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, but it goes beyond being a me-too - it has managed to create its own identity.

* Rooms: Very well designed, with an eco-friendly look. Furnishing are of high quality. Housekeeping ensures you get a clean feel to the room. Sit-outs facing the tall grasses are ideal for spending hours with a book and to reflect.

chefs are well trained, and will happily cater to any requests from guests.

* The safaris: Just like Tiger Tops, Forsythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strength lies in its team of naturalists - both experienced in the wild and armed with formal training. One of them, * The grasslands: I was lucky to be at Forsythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on a David, even has an aquarium of Dragonflies in his full moon night. And what do I see? A big orange ball room as a part of a research and book project. Every rising from the grass level, eventually going all the pug mark, every pattern in the mud made by insects, way up high in the sky. Need one say more about the every sound emanating from the forests - your natusetting? When it is day, just walk around within the ralists will enlighten you about the same and more. property to spot exotic birds including the Hornbills, butterflies, insects and some mammals who come to * Service: Staff is well trained and serve you with a the watering holes. These grasslands set you in the smile. And are always at hand should you need anymood for game safaris. thing. * Food: Simple, wholesome, home cooked meals are * Liked Best: The quality of naturalists and the experijust what you need. You cannot plan on jungle safa- ence of the wild you have with them. ris if you are stuffed with greasy and rich meals. The

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◄ A bedroom

The bath in the cottages►

◄ The lounge cum reading area in the main building

The main building at night ►

◄ The grasses in the lodge

The main building ►

Lodge Address : Forsyth’s Lodge 14/1 Village Bijakhori, Tehsil Sohagpur District Hoshangabad Madhya Pradesh, India Tel: +91.93026 25334

Contact for Reservations : Chennai Tel: +91.44.28263155 / 56 Delhi Tel: +91.124.4062480 / 81 Mobile: +91.98102 65781 Email: info@forsythlodge.com Web: ht tp://forsythlodge.com 53

PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP A book on funny road signs and advertisements with captions and commentary by Ajay Jain If you thought road signs are only meant to guide and inform, think again. The ones on Indian highways are in a zone of their own. They shower you with words of wisdom, keep your mind sharp as you unravel their cryptic messages, tickle your imagination, amuse you and entertain you. In public interest, they lend a hand to Alcoholics Anonymous. Since journeys are meant to be a pleasure, they remind you to ‘Smile Please.’ The entertainment for the traveler does not stop at this. There are the limitless public notices, outdoor advertisements and storefront signs with their own idiosyncrasies and eccentricities. Who needs comic strips in this country? Ajay Jain drove thousands of miles to put together this collection of signs. With a bit of witty commentary thrown in, this book will be a journey unlike any other you may have undertaken. Resulting in you letting out a ‘Peep Peep’ of delight.

For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.peeppeepdontsleep.com Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle 36

kunzum Travel Pix

We bring you engaging imagery from our travels - and a few are given here. Follow the series. The first six appeared in the December 2011 issue of the Kunzum Travel Mag.

Postcards from Ladakh A Pictorial Travelogue by Ajay Jain

Postcards from Ladakh is a collection of frames - picture postcards, if you will - frozen circa 2009, when the author drove for over 10,000 kms (6,000 miles) across the remote and fascinating region of Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas. Neither guidebook nor encyclopedia, it is intended to give you a flavour of this high altitude cold desert. You will also meet a few Ladakhis in these pages. And see the land they live in, the faith they live by, the hope they live onâ&#x20AC;ŚEach of them will spontaneously greet you with a cheerful Julley and invite you to be part of their culture and society. No Ladakhi is a stranger. We just havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t had the time to meet them all...

For more on the book, sample chapters and to order visit www.kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh Available as a Paperback, as a PDF and for the iPad and Kindle 61

Si n c e 2007, Kunzum has se rve d as an imp o rt a n t g u id e f o r t ra v e lle rs p la n n in g jo u r n e y s i n I n dia and the su b continent - and some in t e rn a t io n a l d e s t in a t io n s t o o . I N TR ODUCTIONS FIRS T… Ku n zum is a high a ltitu d e pass in the L a h a u l S p it i re g io n o f Hima c h a l P ra d e s h in I n d i a . An d the i nspi r ation b e h ind the b rand t h a t is a ll a b o u t me mo ra b le t ra v e l e x p e rie n c e s . O u r j our ney starte d in 2007 a s a trave l b lo g b y writ e r a n d p h o t o g ra p h e r, A ja y J a i n . A n d w e h ave cr ossed ma n y milestones - lit e ra lly a n d f ig u ra t iv e ly - s in c e t h e n . K U N ZUM .C OM An independent, objective and one of the most trusted online travel information websites in India. A unique style of writing, peppered with anecdotes and illustrated with high quality photographs and videos, have won the site a fan following of tens of thousands of travellers. More at http://kunzum.com. TH E KUNZUM T RAV E L MAG A u n i q u e p r o d u c t , i t i s a m o n t h l y e - m a g a v a i l a b l e a s a P D F, f o r t h e i P a d a n d Kindle, and for online reading with flipping pages on Issuu.com. Subscription is FREE at http://kunzum.com/mag. PU B LISH ING We publish engaging and quality travel books and guides in both traditional formats as well as e-books (for the iPad, Amazon’s Kindle, other mobile readers and all computers). More at http://kunzum.com/books. C U R ATOR OF COLLE CTIBLE P HOTOG RAP HI C ART Available for your walls at home, office or resort and also as stock imagery for publishing and promotional materials. All printed on archival paper to last g e n e r a t i o n s . The prints a re a lso on d is p la y a t t h e K u n z u m Tra v e l Ca f é . Ch e c k t he c o l l ection at http://kunzu mgallery.co m. K U N ZUM TR AVE L CAFÉ Another unique offering from Kunzum - a bricks and mortar place for the travel-minded to come together as a community, a sort of Face-to-Facebook network. Located in Hauz Khas Village in New Delhi, guests can hang around, read travel books, use free Wi-Fi, participate in events, exchange stories, enjoy music, buy photographic art, post travelogues and make travel plans. They can even order tea, coffee and cookies - and pay what they like. More at http://kunzum.com/travelcafe.

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ABOUT AJAY JAIN Ajay Jain is a full time writer, journalist and photographer based in New Delhi in India. He is not limited in his medium of expression, equally comfor table writing for newspapers and magazines, as well as his own books and blogs. Star ting his writing career in 2001, he has been covering business, technology and youth affairs before deciding to focus wholly on travel writing. He pursues his passion by being on the road as much as he can. He has written three books, the latest being Postcards from Ladakh (http://www. kunzum.com/postcardsfromladakh), a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh. His first, Let ’s Connect: Using LinkedIn to Get Ahead at Work, is a management book on professional networking using the world’s most popular professional networking site LinkedIn.com. It was published in early 2008. His other book, and his first travel book, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (http://www. peeppeepdontsleep.com), is a collection of funny road signs and adver tisements.

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Email: ajay@ajayjain.com M o b i l e : + 91. 9 910 0 4 4 4 76

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He has worked for and written columns for national publications in India including The Hindustan Times, Mint, Fi n a n c i a l E x p r e s s , I n d i a n M a n a g e m e n t (Business Standard), Outlook Business, Deccan Herald, Mumbai Mirror ( Times of India), Discover India, Swagat, Asian A g e a n d R e d i f f. c o m . H e h a s a l s o e d i t e d a y o u t h n e w s p a p e r, T h e C a m p u s Pa p e r. Prior to tak ing up writing, he has worked i n t h e I n f o r m a t i o n Te c h n o l o g y a n d S p o r t s Management sectors. He holds degrees Mechanical Engineering (Delhi College of Engineering, 1992), Management ( Fo r e S c h o o l o f M a n a g e m e n t , 1 9 9 4 ) a n d J o u r n a l i s m ( C a r d i f f U n i v e r s i t y, U K , 2 0 0 2 ) . H i s s c h o o l i n g w a s a t S t . C o l u m b a’s S c h o o l in New Delhi.