Food & Wine by Kynene Oma

DESTINATION UNPLUGGED 7 TRIPS OF A LIFETIME

The healthy secrets of this irresistible chocolate cake? Check out p. 45.

EAT SMARTER LIVE LONGER 72 GENIUS RECIPES & HACKS FROM THE PROS

FEBRUARY 2017

IS TEQUILA GOOD FOR YOU?

CH E F GIA N CARLO P E RB E L LINI, JW MARRIOT T Â® VENICE R ES O RT & S PA

Our secret culinary ingredient? Chefs who love coming to work in the morning. Of course we only source the best ingredients and freshest local produce. But we think the real recipe for creating incredible culinary experiences is making sure our kitchens inspire and nurture the world’s best chefs. That’s The JW Treatment.™

jwmarriott.com

JW MARRIOTT WARMLY WELCOMES ®

RECIPE INDEX

Fish & Shellfish

recipe key in 45 minutes or less. ● vegetarian Contains no

meat, poultry or seafood. ● staff favorite

Recipe we especially love.

Starters

Your favorite pizza shop classic gets a wholegrain makeover.

● Moroccan Flatbreads with

Roasted Tomatoes p. 87 ● ● Mushroom Flatbreads with Winter Pesto p. 87 ● Roasted Cauliflower Flatbreads with Celery Root Puree p. 87

Salads & Vegetables ● ● ● Chickpeas and Kale in ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Charmoula-Spiced Salmon with Za’atar Vegetables p. 60 ● Garlicky Littleneck Clams with Fregola p. 95 ● Steamed Grouper with Martini Relish and Sour Orange Sauce

● fast Can be prepared

Spicy Pomodoro Sauce p. 90 Kale–and–Brussels Sprout Caesar Salad p. 94 Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Peanuts and Fish Sauce p. 42 Sautéed Cabbage with Cumin Seeds and Turmeric p. 43 Warm Lentil and Root Vegetable Salad with Coconut Tzatziki p. 93 Winter Salad with Walnut Milk Vinaigrette p. 64 Winter Squash and Savoy Cabbage Gratin with Garlic Crema p. 90

Staff-Favorite Pairings

p. 90

Grains & Breads

● Buckwheat Flatbreads p. 94 ● Cacio e Pepe Spelt Garlic Knots p. 49 ● Classic Spelt Garlic Knots p. 49 ● ● Everything Spelt Garlic Knots p. 49 ● ● ● Farro Breakfast Porridge with

Raspberries p. 62

● ● Quinoa Meatballs with Tomato

Sauce and Tuscan Kale p. 91

● Quinoa Pilaf with Dried Apricots

p. 94

Drinks & Desserts ● Chocolate-Cardamom Cookies p. 88 ● ● Chocolate, Cinnamon and Almond

Loaf Cake p. 45

CHICKPEAS AND KALE IN SPICY POMODORO SAUCE with

Fruity Puglian red: 2015 Tormaresca Calafuria (p. 90).

● Clean Bars p. 67 ● Milk Chocolate–Peanut Custards p. 91 ● ● Mock Red Wine p. 18 ● ● Rosemary-Ginger Sparkler p. 88 ● Rosemary-Ginger Syrup p. 88 ● ● Thai Basil, Grapefruit and Chia

Tonic p. 63

Meat & Poultry

● Easy Braised Chicken

with Kimchi p. 44

● Golden Steak and Eggs p. 64

● Grass-Fed Beef Jerky p. 60

● ● Sheet Pan Chicken and Mushrooms

These eggs are fried

with Parsley Sauce p. 42 with fresh turmeric for an antioxidant boost. ● Skillet Pork Tenderloin with Mustard and Smoked Paprika p. 44 Smoky Chicken Cutlets with HerbRoasted Sweet Potatoes p. 92

STEAMED GROUPER WITH MARTINI RELISH AND SOUR ORANGE SAUCE with

con poulos (2)

Chilean Sauvignon Blanc: 2016 Matetic EQ (p. 90).

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Discover the fresh, new flavours of Twinings Earl Grey teas ®

From luxurious Lavender to upli ing Jasmine to vibrant Extra Bold, Twinings of London® is proud to add three fresh, new flavours to our historic line of Earl Grey teas. Beginning with the finest ingredients sourced from all over the world, each unique blend is expertly cra ed by our nine Master Blenders to provide the perfect balance of taste, flavour and aroma.

Available in five great-tasting flavours for you to enjoy

What’s your go-to healthy snack? editor in chief Nilou Motamed

Trader Joe’s Crispy Crunchy Broccoli Florets These satisfy my afternoon saltysnack craving. Only problem: Don’t ask me to share. Dongwon Korean Roasted Seaweed I eat these thin sheets of seaweed like candy. Briny, smoky, crispy candy.

executive editor

deputy editor

Dana Bowen

Christine Quinlan

executive food editor

executive wine editor

Kate Heddings

Ray Isle

Zlicious Confections Moroccan Spice Kettle Corn If you love the combo of sweet and salty, this is the snack for you. The hints of paprika and cardamom are just bonuses.

feat ures fo o d restaurant editor Jordana Rothman deputy digital editor Lawrence Marcus style editor Suzie Myers fwx editor Noah Kaufman associate editor Elyse Inamine (Restaurants) assistant editor Brianna Wippman editorial assistants

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test kitchen senior editor

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a rt art director James Maikowski associate art director Kelly McGuire designer Mark Romero

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bo o ks

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p ro duct i o n

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editor Susan Choung intern Taylor Rondestvedt

c hefs - i n - res i d e n ce

Norr’s Icelandic Skyr To get my daily culture fix, I’m hooked on this creamy, barely sweet elderflower skyr (Icelandic yogurt).

Grant Achatz, Hugh Acheson, José Andrés, Mario Batali, April Bloomfield, Anthony Bourdain, David Chang, Roy Choi, Jacques Pépin, Eric Ripert, Andrew Zimmern

Forager Project Veggie Green Chips Can’t get enough of the rich, toasty flavor and the loud, satisfying crunch that drowns out the rest of the world— perfect for healthy stress eating.

co n t ri buto rs Daniel Duane, Anthony Giglio, Paolo Lucchesi, Ivy Manning, Amanda McClements, Jim Meehan, Erin Murray, Amy Rosen, Jane Sigal, Jennifer Sommer, Emily Kaiser Thelin, Gisela Williams

t i m e i n c. president and chief executive officer Rich Battista chief operating officer and evp Jen Wong chief financial officer and evp Sue D’Emic vice chairman Norman Pearlstine chief content officer Alan Murray editorial director, lifestyle group Nathan Lump executive vice presidents

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Jem Cashew Cardamom Almond Spread Give me nut butter, and I’m happy. Add cardamom, and I’m officially addicted. I put this on everything from fresh fruit to yogurt, but let’s be real—mostly I eat it with a spoon straight from the jar.

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SINCE 1947

70 YEARS OF

AWE-INSPIRING ALASKA. From the grandeur of Denali National Park to pristine glaciers and historic frontier towns, there’s no better way to experience Alaska than on a Holland America Line cruise or Land+Sea Journey. On board you’ll enjoy classic style, attentive service, and fine dining. Plus, 70th Anniversary exclusives like our new BBC Earth Experiences Alaska show and activities, talks by distinguished Alaska experts, and commemorative keepsakes. Come, The Great Land is calling you.

Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands

EDITOR’S LETTER

HE SEEDS FOR THIS ISSUE were sown over a breakfast I had a few years ago with my pal Seamus Mullen, chef-owner of New York’s great Tertulia. I knew Seamus had been struggling for some time with the debilitating effects of rheumatoid arthritis, and yet, when he leapt up to greet me that morning, he was positively glowing. “You look amazing!” I said. “I feel amazing,” he replied, then proceeded to tell me the story of his remarkable recovery— precipitated not by some miracle drug or medical intervention but, incredibly, by a whole new approach to food. Working with Frank Lipman, MD, a doctor and wellness expert, Seamus had upended his entire way of eating (and cooking), rebooting his system and ultimately testing negative for RA. In fact, his new regimen—with its focus on whole foods and naturally healing ingredients—had enabled him to give up the prescription painkillers and anti-inflammatories that had become a daily necessity for him. “I almost died, Nilou,” he told me. “It seemed I would never get better.” Yet, for the chef, the solution had been in front of him all along, right there in his kitchen. One might not expect a restaurant cook to offer insightful advice on a healthy, sensible diet. We still hold onto the stereotype of the overfed, under-rested dude who works hard, plays harder, and eats and cooks with abandon. But since my breakfast with Seamus, I’ve had similar conversations with a growing number of food-world luminaries: Marco Canora, who has revamped his restaurant menus to embrace a more enlightened approach to nutrition (you can thank Marco for the bone-broth craze); George Mendes, who gave up alcohol and started running; and Chris Cosentino, who, last time I saw him, had just biked 65 grueling miles over the Rockies to arrive at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen.

sven eselgroth

These are only a few of the star chefs who have inspired and helped to shape this very special Food & Wine issue on wellness—which, I promise, isn’t about abstinence or eatyour-peas-and-kale asceticism, but about celebrating the transformative power of food. Some of those transformations are profound. Cookbook author Julia Turshen (p. 37) made over her pantry and developed a whole new repertoire of go-to dishes using healthy staples in light of her wife’s diabetes. And food writer Scott DeSimon (p. 28) reclaimed a world of deliciousness—and renewed health—that he’d feared was lost to him forever. But wellness isn’t just about big lifestyle changes and radical reinventions. Sometimes minor adjustments can have an outsize impact, as you’ll find in our story about chefs’ favorite healthy hacks on page 58. (Seamus, incidentally, swears by the curative properties of parsley and has never met an avocado he didn’t love. My kind of guy.) We can all remember when the American idea of eating “healthy” felt like anything but—aisles upon aisles of fat- and sugar-free frankenproducts that took our food far from its natural state. We’re now lucky to live in a time when nutritionists and cooks can finally agree on the lasting value of real food, from ancient grains to healthy fats—even that end-of-day glass of Burgundy. And that’s really the key, isn’t it? Nearly all the experts we talked to in this issue underscored the importance of balance: a constant, vital dialogue between mindful living and, yes, occasional indulgence; between detox juices (p. 20) and top-shelf tequilas (p. 54). After all, as anyone who’s tried a quick-fix diet knows, the only true solutions are the sustainable ones. And as much as we want you to live a long one, life is still too short to give up chocolate cake and Manhattans. So here’s to your health—and to having it all.

Nilou Motamed, Editor in Chief @niloumotamed

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

F E B R UA R Y 2017

HUNGRY CROWD

ATHLETE/TV HOST

EQUAL-OPPORTUNITY EATER

KEEPING IT FRESH

I love New York because you can get anything, anytime. I enjoy it all: great burgers, amazing Italian food. Babbo is one of my favorite restaurants. Look at me—I don’t turn down meals.

My shopping list is actually pretty healthy. I always have eggs, lots of fruit, and herbs from the little garden in my backyard in NYC. If I’m going to cook, I buy everything that day. I don’t like to have stuff sitting in the refrigerator for a while.

GLOBAL DRINKING HABITS

I prefer white wine and particularly love Riesling–probably because I grew up in Germany. And I’m a tequila pro. I like Don Julio 1942 on the rocks with lime. Don Julio 70 is great—that’s the one that’s hard to get. Casamigos and Casa Dragones are good, too. I also have a bunch of pretty bottles that I’ll probably never open, but they look nice.

CHEAT-DAY EATS

On game days I get to the Fox studios at 5:30 a.m. and have oatmeal and egg whites for breakfast, then for lunch I’ll have a protein shake. Around midday I hit the snack table for three of the best double-chocolate cookies you can imagine. Big cookies. Not sure how that plays into my healthy eating habits, but I do it every week. SQUAD GOALS

I’m lucky that a lot of my friends are chefs. Going to Mario Batali’s house for Taco Tuesday or watching Michael Symon do his thing at home is amazing. They’ve both tried to help me with my knife skills. Let’s just put it this way: I’m not messing with knives. I value my fingers too much.

PEANUT BUTTER MAKES EVERYTHING BETTER

I eat a lot of celery and apples with peanut butter. I like mine smooth. When I shop I try to buy the natural, organic stuff. But then there are the times that old-school PB&J comes calling and the commercials for Skippy pop into your head. If you look in my fridge, I have both. F E B R UA R Y 2017

—INTERVIEW BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from left: con poulos; peter yang/august; jorge quinteros

For NFL Hall of Famer turned über-host Michael Strahan, Sundays are for football (and cookies).

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

F&W

TASTE TEST

It’s Alive!

KOMBUCHA FANS LOVE THE GOOD-FOR-YOUR-GUT HEALTH BENEFITS OF THIS SUDDENLY OMNIPRESENT AND PROBIOTIC-RICH FERMENTED TEA. WE TASTED DOZENS TO SELECT THE FIVE THAT TOP OUR LIST.

BluePrint

Brew Dr. Kombucha

The cult-favorite cold-pressed juice company is now making kombucha that’s less sweet and more fizzy than others we’ve tasted. We especially love Miss Tang, a puckery lemon-lime blend with ginger for even more digestion support. $4 for 14 oz.; blueprint.com.

Our favorite flavor is an earthy blend of white tea, Northwest Chinook hops and vitamin C–rich oranges. $3.50 for 14 oz.; brewdrkombucha.com.

GT’s

We reach for this brand’s MultiGreen for a sweet-tart superfood boost and guaranteed stomach settler. From $3 for 16 oz.; synergydrinks.com.

Health-Ade

A great gateway option, this spritzy, not-too-funky version is made in supersmall batches and comes in unexpected flavors, like Blood Orange– Carrot–Ginger. $5 for 16 oz.; health-ade.com.

Pure Luck

photograph: ben alsop; style editor: suzie myers

It’s hard to decide between the slightly smoky, tea-rich Mr. Oolong and the spicy Bangkok Detox—so we’ll take both. $4 for 4 oz.; mypureluck.com.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

WHAT’S HOT NOW

TREND SPOTTING PRODUCED BY ELYSE INAMINE

dylan

jeni

At P.Y.T. in L.A., turnips take center stage: salt-baked and drizzled with a walnut-nettle pesto.

LIVING ON THE VEG F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

VEGETABLE-FORWARD COOKING is tipping into ubiquity across the country, but nowhere has it gone more mainstream than Los Angeles, the city at the white-hot BY CHELSEA MORSE center of the wellness revolution. With so many plant-based menus popping up, you can easily go meatless for every meal of the day. Turn the page for three new healthy havens—and the dishes to order—morning, noon and night.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

Trendspotting

What’s Hot Now

continued from p. 15

BRUNCH “Our menu is based on what’s available seasonally, and, luckily, in California that’s always a lot,” says chef Josef Centeno of his vegetablefocused cuisine at P.Y.T. on Main Street in downtown L.A. Centeno stocks his kitchen with produce from Lala, a farm at a local school, and he makes particularly good use of it at brunch. Try his restorative pozole with celery root and lovage. pytlosangeles.com.

DINNER Fried seaweed chips with a yuzu-spiked guacamole are just one example of how Nick Erven is reimagining meat-free food at his Santa Monica restaurant Erven. “It’s forced me to be more creative and informed,” says the chef, whose $35 tasting menu is one of the best deals in town. ervenrestaurant.com. The airy interior at P.Y.T. echoes the fresh menu.

SHELF IMPROVEMENT Stick to your New Year’s resolutions by devouring these smart new health-focused cookbooks. FOR THE VINYASA VEGETARIAN. Kimberly Parsons, yoga guru and founder of London’s Retreat café, organizes The Yoga Kitchen around the seven chakras. Expect meatless and gluten-free recipes that promise to sync up your mind and body. LESSON LEARNED Feeling stressed? That’s your ajna chakra crying for help. Tension-releasing ingredients, like raw cacao and matcha, will help calm nerves and boost concentration. FOR THE MILLENNIAL TRENDSETTER. Irish pop star turned food writer Donal Skehan’s Fresh spotlights healthful comfort foods that call on zeitgeisty ingredients and tools—think coconut oil and spiralizers. LESSON LEARNED Sneak some vegetables into dessert: Shredded beets are a sweet and delicious addition to chocolate cake.

FOR THE HOLISTIC BEAUTY MAVEN. Turns out beauty isn’t skin deep. In Eat Beautiful, Wendy Rowe, makeup artist to stars like Sienna Miller and Cara Delevingne, shares recipes designed to boost your inner glow. LESSON LEARNED Pamper your winter skin by munching on radishes. The vitamin C and antioxidants help build up collagen for a more supple complexion. FOR THE WEEKNIGHT WARRIOR. Can’t get to the farmers’ market? In Naturally Nourished, Sarah Britton, the blogger behind My New Roots, offers supermarket hacks for creating satisfying, nutritious meals every night of the week. LESSON LEARNED Puree canned beans to add silky texture to soups. Who needs cream?

CRUISE CONTROL

All-you-can-eat vacations can spell disaster for the health-conscious traveler, but a new fleet of ships is keeping fitness firmly on deck. Immerse yourself in the MSC Cruises Wellness Experience in the Caribbean, which offers health consultations and an app to keep you on track (starting at $700; msccruisesusa.com). Board Silversea’s Wellness Expedition Voyages for nutritional cooking classes and beach Pilates at destinations like Bali (starting at $9,150; silversea.com). Or work out your body and soul with the new holistic program devised by Dr. Andrew Weil on Seabourn (starting at $8,699; seabourn.com). DANICA LO F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from top: ben alsop; maggie davis

LUNCH You can add protein to any of the bowls, wraps and salads at Beefsteak in Fairfax, but Marcel Vigneron offers compelling reasons not to. “We don’t use it as a crutch,” says the chef, who finds brilliant alternatives to add richness. Instead of anchovies, olive brine brings an umami punch to a sunflower-seed-packed Caesar, and cashew cream thickens pumpkin soup. beefsteakveg.com.

Fresh Mozzarella and Pea Risott o

Cucumber Bites

Fresh Vegetable C ol lard Leaf Wrap

with BelGioioso

FRESH MOZZARELLA A good source for protein and calcium, our delicate, milky flavor adds a touch of freshness to any recipe. At only 70 calories per ounce, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a smart choice for a fresh start.

Recipes and more at belgioioso.com/startfresh rBST Free* | Gluten Free | Antibiotic Free | Vegetarian *No significant difference has been found in milk from cows treated with artificial hormones.

Trendspotting

SOFT(ER) DRINKS

In her upcoming book Day Drinking, writer Kat Odell salutes the pleasures of lowalcohol cocktails. But Eamon Rockey, formerly of Betony in New York City, takes things a step further with his contribution to her book: His mocktail may look like red wine, but it clocks in at zero ABV.

What’s Hot Now

GOOD BUZZ San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino makes his own coffee salt for his energy bars (p. 67): “When I’m cycling, the coffee keeps me going,” he says, “and the salt replenishes electrolytes.” It’s also great rubbed onto roasts or sprinkled on avocado toast. Buy it premade from Mark Bitterman, the “selmelier” whose specialty salt shop The Meadow grinds Blue Bottle’s Hayes Valley espresso and vanilla into Icelandic sea salt. $10 for 2.3 oz.; themeadow.com.

FOR WELLNESS’ SAKE Total: 20 min plus chilling; Serves 4

Using an electric juicer, juice 2¼ lbs. quartered Granny Smith apples and ¾ lb. scrubbed and quartered red beets into a large bowl or liquid measuring cup; cover and refrigerate overnight. Meanwhile, in a heatproof medium bowl, cover 4 oolong tea bags with 2 cups boiling water and let steep for 5 minutes. Discard the tea bags and let the tea cool completely. Refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour. Strain the juice through damp cheesecloth into a large pitcher. Stir in the tea and pour into glasses; serve chilled.

THE GOODS Glow like you were born with Vermeer lighting after peeling off Boscia’s Sake Bright White Mask. $38; boscia.com.

THE TREATMENTS Head to the Shibui Spa at The Greenwich Hotel in New York City for a Drunken Lotus Massage with hot sake-soaked compresses and a dip in a candlelit sake bath.

Noting even the most grizzled sake makers have youthful hands led to SK-II’s antiaging line, including R.N.A. Power Eye Cream. $135; sk-ii.com.

Go ahead and take a sip from the sake-filled flask—you’ve earned it. From $220; thegreenwichhotel.com. A sake-spiked softening and hydrating foot soak kicks off the two-hour Winter Seasonal Journey at the stunning new Aman Tokyo in the Otemachi district. $400; aman.com.

Fresh Sake Bath, which is 50 percent sake, co-opts the geisha tradition of scenting bathwater with persimmons. $82; fresh.com.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

sake illustration by rob bailey. coffee salt: ben alsop. dish by miro made this

Mock Red Wine

Rice wine is appearing more than ever in beauty treatments around the globe. Sake’s softening, hydrating and glow-giving powers largely come from kojic acid—a by-product of rice malt that’s been used for centuries in Japanese rituals. “It’s a gentler, more natural counterpart to the skin-brightening agent hydroquinone,” says David Bank, assistant clinical professor in dermatology at New York’s Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center. Whether you want to do as the geishas did and bathe in the stuff or simply dab a little on, we’ve rounded up a whole menu of options. ABBIE KOZOLCHYK

What’s Hot Now

THE ZEN KITCHEN Mottainai is about more than just food—it’s a way of appreciating and utilizing everything you have.”

You could call Yuji Haraguchi the Marie Kondo of the food world. The Brooklyn chef takes the art of decluttering and resourcefulness to the next level by championing the ancient Japanese philosophy of mottainai—which means “waste not, want not”—at his hot spots Okonomi, Yuji Ramen and his new sustainable fi sh market Osakana. He’s bringing such attention to the mindful approach that the ShinYokohama Ramen Museum in Kanagawa, Japan, has invited him to serve his zero-waste ramen there in March. Here’s how you can bring a little mottainai to your kitchen. JAMIE FELDMAR USE IT ALL Haraguchi suggests buying whole fish so you can make stock from the bones and head.

STREAMLINE Use one tool for everything. He suggests a doubleedged, eight-inch gyuto chef’s knife.

BEAUTIFY Handmade dishes (his come from Connecticut potter Jordan Colón) honor the food on the plate.

POWER POTIONS

One part superchef, one part alchemist, Jean-Georges Vongerichten is dabbling in healing elixirs at his recently opened abcV restaurant in New York’s Flatiron neighborhood. “We live in a crazy world, and we need to bring as much nutrition to people as we can,” says the chef, who calls his line of tonics “little shots of joy.” Behold his restorative brews. abcvnyc.com. “BRAIN” Kale, spinach and ginger with a blend of Chinese herbs

“GROUNDING” Agave-sweetened pear and green apple, with revitalizing ginseng

“SPIRIT” Calming kava root with grapefruit and pomegranate

“HEART” Stimulating tea with blood orange and damiana leaf

“JOY” A bubbly mix of rose petals, black currant and tangerine

BAR METHOD For their new K+M Extravirgin Chocolate line, chef Thomas Keller and olive oil icon Armando Manni are ratcheting up the intrinsic health benefits of cocoa beans and EVOO. The chocolate is made according to the same “live” principles Manni designed for his cultish oils—a method developed with the University of Florence to minimize heat exposure and retain antioxidants throughout processing. The two tapped former pastry chef Chi Bui (Daniel, Le Bernardin) to perfect the blockbuster bars, which double down on the antioxidant power with a fi nishing hit of Manni oil. The fi rst release includes three bars, from Madagascar, Peru and Ecuador; the latter is our favorite—uniquely floral, with a lush, velvety texture. $15; williams-sonoma.com. JORDANA ROTHMAN F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

chocolate photograph by john kernick; food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers. other photographs, from top: scott gordon bleicher; charissa fay

Trendspotting

FEEL THE BURN The coolest new off-hours hangout for chefs isn’t a moody speakeasy—it’s the gym. These days, more and more professional cooks are trading postwork cocktails for boxing gloves, biking gear, surfboards and running shoes. And they’re capturing it all on Instagram. Here, six chefs who inspire us to get a move on.

What’s Hot Now

Nothing can describe what it’s like to watch the sunset from your surf board. It helps me unwind after a long day of baking.” –tracy obolsky, @tracyobolsky rockaway beach bakery, nyc

Marco Canora, @marcocanora Hearth and Zadie’s Oyster Room, NYC “My 10-year-old daughter, Stella, and I head to the boxing gym every weekend. It’s our father-daughter Sunday ritual.”

Michael Solomonov @mikesolomonov Zahav, Philadelphia, and Dizengoff, NYC “I box three days a week. It’s the best stress release of all time. Plus, it’s gotten me in the best shape of my life.” Seamus Mullen @seamusmullen Tertulia, NYC “I ride six days a week and race most weekends. I also commute via bicycle every day. The bike keeps me sane: It’s my balance, my escape and my fitness.”

Daniel Humm, @danielhumm Eleven Madison Park, NYC “Every Monday at 9 a.m. for over a decade— rain or shine—I lace up my running shoes and head to the same exact spot in Central Park. It’s the routine that gives me energy.”

SOUR POWER

Don’t toss that leftover pickle brine—the nutrient-packed liquid is so prized for boosting immunity, the geniuses at Gordy’s Pickle Jar in DC have started selling cans of the stuff ($16 for four; gordyspicklejar.com). Sip it straight, mix it into a cocktail or cook with it: At Juniper in Austin, Nicholas Yanes marinates duck breast in beet-pickle juice, and at 5 & 10 in Athens, Georgia, Hugh Acheson poaches his salmon in a dill-spiced brine.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

feel the burn, clockwise from top: don capria; courtesy of daniel humm; courtesy of lentine alexis. sour power: photograph: ben alsop; style Editor: suzie myers

Lentine Alexis, @lentinealexis Skratch Labs, Boulder, CO “Cycling invigorates my senses—smell and taste in particular. I’m always dreaming up new ideas for what to cook while I’m on the bike.”

What’s Hot Now

The iconic Ritz Paris has welcomed all manner of luminaries in its nearly 12 decades on Place Vendôme: Proust, Fitzgerald, Hemingway and Cole Porter all passed through its wrought-iron gates, and Coco Chanel made her home here for more than 30 years. Now, the hotel has emerged from a four-year, $450 million revamp, achieving that delicate balance between Old World elegance and contemporary comforts. Throughout, things simply look refreshed: Silk wall coverings shimmer, and the original boiserie glows. The first change you’ll notice is in the reception area, now transformed into a lofty, light-flooded space with 18-foot ceilings. With nearly a million mosaic tiles, the neoclassical swimming pool still looks like a Hollywood set piece; it’s now joined by the world’s first Chanel spa. We love the new patio restaurant, with its sliding roof and heated floors, and the clubby Salon Proust is the perfect spot for afternoon tea beside a roaring fire. Thankfully, the hotel didn’t mess with its most beloved haunt. Legendary barman Colin Peter Field is back at Bar Hemingway, mixing classic cocktails (like his impeccable Sidecar, left) and signature inventions such as the Serendipity (Champagne, Calvados, sugar, clarified apple juice and fresh mint). We’ll raise a glass to that. Rooms from $1,100 per night; ritzparis.com.

URBAN IDYLL

With a destination resort’s worth of luxury amenities—in the elegant heart of the French capital’s 1st arrondissement—the Ritz Paris redefines getting away from it all.

COMING IN APRIL Rome’s most picturesque spots—the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain and, most recently, the Spanish Steps—have gotten much-needed face-lifts. And now, so will the 127-year-old Hotel Eden. Hit the new spa, then grab a perfectly made Negroni and take in the panoramic views from Michelin-starred La Terrazza. F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

clockwise from top left: christophe madamour/ritz hotel paris; eric martin/figarophoto/redux; getty images/istockphoto; vincent leroux

Trendspotting

T R AV EL JOUR NA L

WHERE TO GO NOW FOR CHARM, CULTURE & CUISINE

Charleston,

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HEALTHY LIFESTYLE

Just What the Doctor Ordered AFTER BEATING CANCER, SCOTT De SIMON REDISCOVERED HIS APPETITE—AND LOST HIS SKEPTICISM FOR WELLNESS AND NUTRITION TRENDS. MEET THE SUPERFOODS THAT GUIDED HIM BACK TO HEALTH. ILLUSTRATION BY LAURÈNE BOGLIO

HE FIRST THING to go is sour. That hit of brightness a squeeze of lime brings to just about anything? Splitsville. Suddenly, all the sharp edges of food are planed off. It’s like listening to a favorite song with the treble turned down: recognizable but hardly compelling. Acid is just the first flavor casualty of radiation. Salty flees, and no amount of overseasoning can lure it back. Spice vanishes. Only a week into treatment, and everything that passes my lips tastes like brunch at the gulag. I dream of savoring a lengua taco from Tacos Lolita, a favorite stand in Mexico City’s Roma neighborhood. Two weeks into radiation, everything tastes like a nickel from the floor of a public restroom. That simple taco—meat crispy on the edges and dressed with cilantro and onion— becomes a totem of everything I’ve lost. Taste buds fried, I’m

F E B R UA R Y 2017

not sure if treatment is any better than the cancer that got me here. My brain switches off the hunger impulse. Food becomes revolting. I’m running on 1,000 calories a day and shedding body mass. I start this whole cancer thing at 160 pounds. By the end, I’ll bottom out at 130. What doctors don’t tell you is that when you finish a course of radiation you will feel the worst you’ll ever feel. (The medical establishment is big on irony.) As I leave Mount Sinai hospital after my last blast of gamma rays, I have the lithe physique of Mick Jagger circa 1970, but I can barely make it up to my third-floor apartment. Worse, not only has eating ceased being pleasurable, but I also haven’t been to a restaurant or bar in weeks. Just when I need the surefire solace that comes from sharing a meal with friends and family, it has abandoned me. And then, like an ex-girlfriend who blows into town for a long weekend, my taste buds return just enough to remind me of how things used to be. The first rekindling comes in the

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PHOTO COURTESY OF CRYSTAL CRUISES

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†Crystal Cruises offers each guest the opportunity to dine at least once on a complimentary basis in Prego and at least once in Silk Road or the Sushi Bar (Sushi Bar is not available for prereservation via PCPC and is available on a first come first serve basis). Additional reservations or visits (including “walk-in” diners) are subject to a $30 per person fee, subject to availability. ‡Complimentary Wi-Fi/Internet access: 60 minutes per person, per day depending on stateroom category. All itineraries, programs, policies and shore excursions are subject to change. Promotions are accurate at time of printing. Restrictions apply. See crystalcruises.com for complete terms and conditions of all offers. ©2016 Crystal Cruises, LLC. Ships’ registry: The Bahamas Other images: Clockwise from top, left: David Santiago Garcia/Westend61/Offset, David Navarro Azurmendi/Getty Images, John Harper/Getty Images, Crystal Cruises

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Healthy Lifestyle

The New Superfoods

form of two four-minute eggs with a knob of butter and plenty of salt and pepper, eaten from a coffee mug—my grandfather’s go-to breakfast. It’s pure fat, salt and comfort. I am almost delirious with joy. For the first time since my cancer diagnosis, I cry. My wife chalks it up to Percocet and misplaced priorities.

FEW WEEKS LATER, my taste buds are running at 60 percent, and, looking to gain weight, I espouse the diet of a 14-year-old. Lunch is mozzarella sticks and General Tso’s chicken washed down with a Shake Shack malted. And then, in a “saw that coming” car crash, I overdo it and wind up in the ER, dehydrated and in pain. A battery of doctors tells me to be patient. Take it slow with the eating. Undaunted, I go to a favorite restaurant for the first time in three months. Three dishes in, something goes terribly wrong; I have an allergic reaction and leave looking like Meg Ryan circa 2013. In the span of a month I have moved from the exhilaration of being able to (sort of) eat again to having the act become grueling, exhausting and sometimes vengeful. Depression looms. Recovery, somehow, has become as bad as the treatment. It’s clear that I need professional help. I ask pals who are into “wellness”—another way to say “people who do yoga”— and a name emerges: Frank Lipman, MD. The New York City–based, internationally known integrative doc has an influential following, including glowing celebrity types like Gwyneth Paltrow. So I email Lipman and he agrees to work out a regimen for me that focuses on diet and alternative treatments such as acupuncture. As someone who has never dabbled in such things, I’m readying my eye rolls, but at this point, what do I have to lose? Lipman’s office is a little “world beat,” but he comes to it honestly considering his South African roots (which also explain his measured, inscrutable accent). We begin a conversation that goes something like this: Him: “Have you ever thought about X?” Me: “Yes, but that’s kind of BS, right?” Gluten. Caffeine. Gluten. Caffeine. Sugar. Dairy. One by Sugar. Dairy. one, the building blocks of what One by one, the I would consider a half-decent meal are building blocks dissected and tossed aside. As a food editor, of any halfand someone who loves to eat, I know decent meal are what constitutes a healthy diet: lots of tossed aside.” vegetables, meat mainly as a flavoring, no processed foods. And, aside from the past few months when I was trying to bulk up, that’s how I mostly eat. Talking to Lipman, it becomes clear that if I’m going to commit, I need to get over my gluten-intolerance intolerance, among other issues. “It’s not just about fattening you up,” he explains. “It’s getting the right nutrients into you—healthy proteins and fats from avocado and fish, phytonutrients from leafy greens—to rebuild your energy.”

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Healthy Lifestyle

The New Superfoods

IPMAN SUGGESTS a three-month plan designed to get me, as he says, “back to as close to normal as you’re going to get.” To make sure I’m getting enough antioxidant-rich vegetables and straightup calories, I’ll drink a green juice in the morning and a protein shake in the afternoon. To that he adds a twice-daily pour of aloe vera juice mixed with glutamine

powder (to speed up healing in my throat, where the tumor was removed) and acupuncture to alleviate post-surgery stiffness in my neck. When I tell Lipman that I’ve always kept a healthy diet, he quietly sighs in a way I will come to love as much as the natty identical blue button-down shirts he wears every day. “That term is meaningless,” he says. “Different people have different perceptions of healthy. My definition is eating whole foods as close to nature as possible, food that has not been altered or sprayed with pesticides. That’s what eating healthy is.” I can’t argue with that. Alcohol is verboten, and on my next visit, I share how much I’ve missed it—not so much the tipsiness of the enterprise, but the taste (sweet bourbon, you’ll wait for me, right?), the ritual and the bonhomie of talking with friends over a glass of brown liquor (two rocks, please). What’s the point, I say, of a life based on deprivation? Again, Lipman sighs. “There are so many things you can have: Grass-fed, organic animal protein, healthy fats and pastured eggs are all good. Not to mention vegetables and fruit,” he says. “This is not magic, it’s a lifestyle, and a lot of it is where your head is at.” Admittedly, my head is skeptical. For the next few months I get chummy with nut milks and butters, chia seeds, and coconut in oil, milk and yogurt forms (who knew about coconut yogurt?). And a funny thing happens: The more my pantry looks like a food co-op, the more energy I have. Instead of needing to lie down in my office for 15 minutes at 4 p.m., I’m able to stay engaged and awake until my kids are in bed—at 8! I feel like a sprightly senior citizen, but it’s an upgrade. Even better, it no longer seems like I’m eating with someone else’s mouth. Whatever healing properties are inherent in Lipman’s diet seem to be working. I may not be back to normal, or whatever that will turn out to be, but things are trending upward. Most importantly, a month into Scott DeSimon 2.0, I get the results from my post-treatment PET scan. The cancer is gone. Two months later I’m finally gaining weight. One drawback to my diet is that empty calories—say, from a couple of beers or a bagel and cream cheese—are hard to come by because I just don’t eat that way anymore. So my attempt at a De Niro in Raging Bull transformation is moving at a De Niro in Last Vegas pace. Still, I’ve put on 10 pounds and what’s more, I don’t dread eating. Hell, I’ve even straight up enjoyed a few meals out. I’m slowly approaching that version of normal that Lipman pointed me toward. And to celebrate, friends have offered to take me to Mexico City for a long weekend. I know my first stop: Tacos Lolita. And the best part? The lengua tacos are gluten-free.

THE NEW SUPERFOODS What I learned from my three months with Frank Lipman (drfranklipman.com), author of The New Health Rules, is that healthy eating isn’t about deprivation: It’s about adding foods and, yes, supplements to boost nutrition and energy. These are the ingredients that became a part of my food life, helping me regain stamina and feel closer to my jaunty pre-cancer self. CHIA SEEDS From punch line to puddingpowered king of the co-op, these seeds are one of the richest sources of plant-based omega-3 fatty acids (great news for vegetarians) and are an excellent source of fiber, which helps you feel full. They’re packed with antioxidants, protein and minerals, and they provide healthy fat, which helped me gain weight better. I even grew to like the ubiquitous chia seed pudding. Sprinkle on salads, add to smoothies or mix into yogurt. COCONUT OIL OK, it might not be the new olive oil, but coconut oil, with its vast list of health benefits, has become the hottest fat out there for good reason. Coconut oil is not only anti-inflammatory, it also boosts metabolism, helps balance hormones and is antimicrobial. Oh, and you always feel like there’s a Mounds bar around when you’re cooking with it. Try adding some to your morning shakes, sauté your kale in it and use it to add a slightly sweet note to curries. I also love to sub it into my family’s gluten-free pancake batter. CURCUMIN A powerful anti-inflammatory and antioxidant supplement derived from the spice turmeric, curcumin reduces inflammation from joint wear and tear, physical injury or chronic infections. It may also be helpful for cardiovascular and skin conditions, many of which are a result of inflammation. You can pop it in capsule form or use the powder, but I found that it was easier to use fresh turmeric in soups and smoothies.

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GLUTAMINE This “super” amino acid not only builds muscle, it also plays a vital role in gastrointestinal health, supports a strong immune system, and enhances mood and mental clarity. I mixed the powder with aloe vera juice, but you could also add it to your smoothie and call it a day. MUSHROOMS Several species of ’shrooms have significant immune-stimulating properties, containing high percentages of polysaccharides, long chains of sugar molecules that regulate immunity. These mushrooms include reishi, maitake and shiitake—all delicious. Not a fan? I feel sad for you, but you can buy mushrooms in tablet, powder or liquid extract form. (Seriously, though, why don’t you like mushrooms?) PHYTONUTRIENTS Best known are the carotenoids, flavonoids and polyphenols found in the pigments of fruits and vegetables, which help boost cell health. Some are anti-inflammatory, others are potent antioxidants that help prevent cancer, heart disease and many chronic diseases. Eat leafy greens like kale and spinach in their natural form or in green juices—calorie for calorie, they deliver more nutrients than just about any other food on the planet. PROBIOTICS You need “good bacteria” in your gut not just to keep your digestive system working, but also to boost immunity powers. You can take supplements, but fermented foods —which I love—are rich in natural probiotics. The three Ks—kefir, kombucha, kimchi—were easy to find and delicious.

Scott DeSimon is an editor, a writer and a wellness novice.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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100

The most influential images of all time

SPECIAL HEALTHY EDITION

WHAT TO COOK NOW

photograph: john kernick; food stylist: julia turshen; prop stylist: brooke deonarine

HANDBOOK

Turn it up. Elevate a simple one-pan chicken dinner with deeply flavored roasted lemons, shiitakes and a bright parsley sauce.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

F E B R UA R Y 2017

Handbook

What to Cook Now

The author (in red shirt) with Grace Bonney and dogs Winky (left) and Hope.

From the Kitchen, with Love How do you revamp the way you cook for your family with health in mind? Follow author Julia Turshen’s lead with a smartly stocked pantry and her arsenal of delicious, go-to recipes.

Two years ago, my wife, Grace, and I moved from Brooklyn to a tiny town in upstate New York. In trading the city for the country, one of the biggest changes is that we now cook 99 percent of everything we eat. There aren’t many restaurants in our quiet part of Ulster County, and takeout is no longer in our vocabulary. Luckily, we both love to cook; in fact, shortly after we moved in, I hunkered down to finish my cookbook, Small Victories, which is all about getting people excited to prepare

F E B R UA R Y 2017

meals and to help them feel calm and comfortable in their kitchens—just like Grace and I feel in our own. But sometimes life throws you a curveball. Last year, just as we had settled into our new home, Grace was diagnosed with type 1 diabetes at the age of 35, and this introduced a lot of changes into our lives. Nowhere were they more dramatically felt than in the kitchen, the place I had spent so much time perfecting the foods we both loved: chocolate cake, raspberry jam buns, lasagna, chicken skillet pie. Suddenly, these recipes could no longer be part 38

of our routine. In order for Grace to feel her best—and, honestly, for me to feel mine—we had to say good-bye to anything that would spike her blood sugar and require extra shots of insulin. As the resident worrier of our family, I figured it was easier to eliminate temptations rather than attempt to resist them. I did a sweep of our cabinets, refrigerator and freezer and brought bags of food to our local food pantry. Out went the pasta, white rice, jam, maple syrup, barbecue sauce, crackers, ice

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Real chicken or beef is the number one ingredient in DISH from Rachael Ray™ Nutrish®. There’s never any corn, wheat or soy. You’ll also find pieces of real slow-roasted chicken, fruit and veggies in every recipe. Look for DISH where you shop for your family’s groceries. SwitchtoNutrish.com

Handbook

What to Cook Now

GO-TO RECIPES Sheet Pan Chicken and Mushrooms with Parsley Sauce, p. 42 Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Peanuts and Fish Sauce, p. 42 Sautéed Cabbage with Cumin Seeds and Turmeric, p. 43 Skillet Pork Tenderloin with Mustard and Smoked Paprika, p. 44 Easy Braised Chicken with Kimchi, p. 44 Chocolate, Cinnamon and Almond Loaf Cake, p. 45

cream (in multiple flavors), organic chicken fingers, and any of the other refined carbohydrates and sugar we were used to having around. When tasked with filling our newfound pantry space, our goal was to make it all but impossible to whip up anything besides a healthy dish. Into our cupboard went a variety of nuts and unsweetened dried coconut, my new breading for chicken tenders. Where I used to reach for honey and other sweeteners, I now use coconut sugar, which delivers the best bang for the glycemic index buck, to sweeten our rice vinegar pickles and roasted pears. We stocked up on high-quality canned tuna for quick lunches and tins of anchovies to make flavorful dressings. Our counters are always filled with lemons, limes, onions and garlic, and our refrigerator is never without local eggs, tons of vegetables and leftovers like extra roast chicken (which we reinvent into other meals instead of snacking). Our freezer has extra-lean meat like chicken breasts and ground turkey, and frozen vegetables for when we don’t have fresh or can’t be bothered to wash another bunch. Once we had our healthy staples in place, the cooking came easy. When I look into our cabinets and pull open our kitchen drawers, instead of missing things we used to eat, I’m grateful for the healthy, happy life we have now. And I’d call that my biggest victory yet.

STOCKING A HEALTHY PANTRY

In addition to the usual oils, vinegars and spices, these are the staples that Julia Turshen keeps on hand to whip up healthful meals in a flash. ALMOND BUTTER Spread on fruit for the fastest snack, or whisk with equal parts tahini and hot water to drizzle over roasted squash. ALMOND FLOUR Use as an alternative to flour to coat chicken or fish fillets. CANNED FISH Mash with mayonnaise and capers to make a quick pâté that’s great on sliced cucumbers. CHERRY PEPPER SPREAD Serve with brothy soups or whisk together with yogurt and serve with fried eggs.

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DIJON MUSTARD Whisk into vinaigrettes and use to season chicken breasts, pork tenderloins or fish steaks.

PRESERVED LEMONS Use whole in the cavity of a chicken before roasting. Chop and mix with herbs and olive oil as a relish for grilled meats. Puree with yogurt for a vegetable dip.

FISH SAUCE Drizzle on browned ground turkey to make Asian-inflected SAN MARZANO TOMATOES lettuce wraps. Use in Make quick tomato sauce dressings and stir-fries. with garlic and olive oil. Use to KIMCHI poach eggs or meatballs. Add to scrambled eggs or tacos. The brine makes a great TAHINI Whisk with lemon juice and hot cucumber salad dressing. water to make a rich dressing that’s wonderful on everything, especially roasted vegetables.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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Handbook

What to Cook Now

Sheet Pan Chicken and Mushrooms with Parsley Sauce page 37

Active 15 min; Total 45 min Serves 4 1½ lbs. skinless, boneless chicken thighs Kosher salt and pepper ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil 1 lb. mixed mushrooms, such as shiitake and cremini, stemmed and halved if large 1 lemon, thinly sliced, plus slices for garnish ½ cup finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 1 large garlic clove, minced

1. Preheat the oven to 450° and place a large rimmed baking sheet in the oven to heat. Season the chicken generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil onto the hot baking sheet. Arrange the chicken in a single layer on the hot sheet and roast for about 5 minutes, until the chicken begins to brown.

Build a bowl. Roasted vegetables are a healthy side. Make them a meal with rice and eggs.

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Peanuts and Fish Sauce Active 10 min; Total 35 min Serves 4

Turshen says that having peanuts and fish sauce in the cupboard means that she can quickly turn simple roasted brussels sprouts into something as addictive as this crunchy, nutty, umami-rich dish.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

and season with salt. Spread in an even layer and roast for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and browned.

1½ lbs. brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 1 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce

2. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil with the fish sauce and vinegar. Drizzle the sauce over the warm brussels sprouts. Transfer to a platter, sprinkle with chopped peanuts and serve.

1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar Chopped roasted unsalted peanuts, for garnish 1. Preheat the oven to 425°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the brussels sprouts with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil

2. In a medium bowl, toss the mushrooms and lemon slices with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then carefully scatter evenly around the chicken in the oven. Roast for about 30 minutes, until the mushrooms and lemon are browned and the chicken is cooked through. 3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the remaining 6 tablespoons of olive oil with the 1/2 cup of parsley, the vinegar and garlic. Season the sauce with salt. 4. Transfer the chicken, mushrooms and lemon slices to a platter. Drizzle with some of the sauce and garnish with lemon and parsley. Serve, passing the remaining sauce at the table. SERVE WITH Quinoa and a green salad.

SERVE WITH Brown rice and

WINE Earthy New Zealand

fried eggs.

Pinot Noir: 2014 Ata Rangi.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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Handbook

What to Cook Now

Don’t be shy with spices. Cumin and turmeric lend an addictive Indian flavor to this easy stir-fry.

Sautéed Cabbage with Cumin Seeds and Turmeric Total 25 min; Serves 6

Cabbage is one of the best vegetables to keep on hand because it stays fresh for weeks in the refrigerator and can be eaten in so many

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

different ways—raw, steamed, roasted, grilled or, in this delicious case, stir-fried. 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1½ tsp. cumin seeds 3 lbs. green cabbage, cored and thinly shredded 1½ tsp. turmeric 1½ tsp. kosher salt

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over moderate heat. Stir in the cumin seeds and cook until they are fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the shredded cabbage, turmeric and kosher salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is softened and browned in spots, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve hot.

SERVE WITH Brown rice,

yogurt and chutney, or with roast chicken. MAKE AHEAD The cabbage can

be refrigerated for 2 days. Reheat gently before serving.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

Handbook

Skillet Pork Tenderloin with Mustard and Smoked Paprika Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1½ tsp. smoked paprika (hot or sweet) 1 tsp. kosher salt Two 1-lb. pork tenderloins 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

What to Cook Now

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a small bowl, stir the Dijon with the paprika and salt. Spread the mixture all over the pork.

for 15 to 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 135°. Transfer to a work surface and let rest for 10 minutes, then cut the pork into thick slices and serve.

2. In a large ovenproof skillet, heat the olive oil over moderately high heat. Add the tenderloins and cook until browned on the bottoms, about 5 minutes. Flip the pork and transfer the skillet to the oven. Roast

SERVE WITH Roasted squash and garlicky green beans. WINE Smoky Ribera del

Duero red: 2012 Condado de Haza Crianza.

Give it a rub. A slather of mustard and smoked paprika is all this juicy pork tenderloin needs.

Easy Braised Chicken with Kimchi Active 30 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4 to 6

Kimchi is one of the healthiest, most versatile ingredients to have in your pantry. Turshen pours the whole jar, juice and all, into a pot of browned chicken: The spicy liquid infuses the chicken with great flavor as it braises. 2 Tbsp. vegetable or canola oil 2 lbs. skin-on, bone-in chicken pieces, breasts halved crosswise Kosher salt and pepper 10 scallions, trimmed and chopped, plus sliced scallions for garnish 4 garlic cloves, minced One 16-oz. jar cabbage kimchi with juice (2½ cups) Roasted sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)

1. In a medium enameled castiron casserole, heat the oil over moderately high heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and add half of it to the casserole skin side down. Cook until browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Flip the chicken and cook until browned on the other side, 6 to 8 minutes more; reduce the heat to moderate if the chicken is getting too dark. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining chicken. 2. Add the chopped scallions, garlic and kimchi with its juice to the casserole and bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Nestle the chicken in the sauce, cover and simmer over moderately low heat until an instantread thermometer inserted into a piece of dark meat registers 165° (160° for white meat), 20 to 25 minutes. Garnish with sliced scallions and sesame seeds, if desired, and serve. WINE Funky “natural” Loire

red: 2015 Clos du Tue-Boeuf Touraine La Butte.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Handbook

What to Cook Now

COVER RECIPE

1. Preheat the oven to 350°.

Chocolate, Cinnamon and Almond Loaf Cake

Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with baking spray and line it with parchment paper, allowing 2 inches of overhang on the short sides.

Active 20 min; Total 2 hr Serves 8 to 10

To make chocolate loaf cake a bit more healthy, Turshen replaces white flour with almond meal and swaps out white sugar for coconut sugar. To accommodate Grace’s dietary needs, Turshen uses ¼ cup of sweetener, but for a more traditionally sweet cake, 1 cup is just right. Baking spray, for greasing 2½ cups superfine almond meal ½ cup unsweetened Dutch process cocoa powder, sifted 2 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. kosher salt 2½ tsp. ground cinnamon 6 large eggs, separated 1 cup coconut palm sugar ½ stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly ½ cup cooled brewed coffee 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1 cup heavy cream

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the almond meal with the cocoa powder, baking powder, salt and 1½ teaspoons of the cinnamon. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the coconut sugar, melted butter, coffee and vanilla. Stir the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until the batter is smooth. 3. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg whites at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Fold one-third of the beaten egg whites into the batter to lighten it, then fold in the remaining egg whites until no streaks remain. 4. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few crumbs attached. Transfer to a rack to cool for 20 minutes, then unmold and let cool completely. 5. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, beat the heavy cream with the remaining 1 teaspoon of cinnamon until soft peaks form. Cut the cake into slices and serve with a dollop of the cinnamon cream.

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MAKE AHEAD The cake

can be stored in an airtight container overnight.

Lighten up. Instead of sweetening whipped cream with sugar, add a little cinnamon.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

F E B R UA R Y 2017

− A few key organic ingredients −

− Cooked lightly with organic olive oil −

One hundred and fifty years ago, Francesco Bertolli embraced The Tuscan Way by using simple ingredients and elevating the flavors of each one. This inspired us to create our new Organic Fire Roasted Garlic sauce, cooked with organic ingredients for a bright, fresh taste. Bring Bertolli sauce home tonight and try dinner The Tuscan Way.

Bring Tuscany

To Your Table

− To lock in layers of flavor −

FOOD INTELLIGENCE

BIG IDEAS THE GASTRONAUT FILES

photographs : con poulos ; food stylist : simon andrews ; style editor : suzie myers

Tie One On

We’re calling it: 2017 is the year of the garlic knot. And the best part about these revamped classics taking Brooklyn by storm? They’re not only good, they’re good for you.

AT NEWLY OPENED GRISTMILL

in Park Slope, dough wunderkind Jake Novick-Finder has a devoted following for his reinvention of the beloved pizza shop snack. Made with fresh, locally milled flour (which is more nutrient-dense) and whole-grain spelt flour, his garlic knots are chewier and more flavorful than your standard knots. He finishes them with a liberal sprinkling of everything-bagel spice and cacio e pepe toppings. “But they still hit that same nostalgic note,” he says. —JULIA HEFFELFINGER F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

F E B R UA R Y 2017

Big Ideas

The Gastronaut Files

Spelt Garlic Knots

3. Turn the dough out onto a very lightly floured work surface. Gently stretch it into a square and fold each of the 4 sides into the center. Flip the dough seam side down and return to the bowl. Cover with the damp towel and let rise in a warm place until the dough is doubled in bulk and springs back slowly after you touch it, about 1 hour.

Active: 1 hr 45 min; Total: 5 hr 40 min; Makes 16 Novick-Finder prefers a combination of all-purpose and spelt flours for these crusty garlic knots. “The high-protein content of spelt flour gives this dough extra energy,” he says. “That energy imparts structure, a perfect chew and a poofy interior after it’s baked.” ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. active dry yeast 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

4. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and, using a large knife or a bench scraper, cut it into 16 equal portions. Gently roll each piece of dough into a ball and carefully transfer to the prepared baking sheets. Loosely cover with damp kitchen towels and let stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

2 cups spelt flour, such as Farmer Ground (see Note) 1 Tbsp. kosher salt

5. Invert 1 ball of dough onto an unfloured work surface so it is sticky side up. Using your pointer fingers, press the outside edges of the dough together to seal the sticky side. Using your palm, flatten the dough, then turn it so the longer side is facing you. Working from the opposite side, fold the dough over itself 3 or 4 times to form a tight log. Roll the log into a 12-inch rope, then tie into a loose knot with 2 long tails. Transfer the knot to the baking sheet and repeat with the remaining balls of dough.

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, mix the olive oil and yeast with 1¼ cups of water. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add both flours and mix on low speed until the dough comes together, about 5 minutes. The dough should be smooth but not sticky; add 1 tablespoon of water if it is too dry. Let rest for 15 minutes.

6. Carefully slide each baking sheet into a clean, unscented 13-gallon plastic kitchen bag and tie the bags closed; leave air in the bags to prevent the plastic from touching the dough. Let the knots rise in a warm place until the dough is puffed and springs back slowly after you touch it, about 1 hour. Toppings and baking instructions are at right.

2. Add the salt and mix on medium-low speed until the dough is stiff and springs back when you touch it, 10 to 15 minutes. Shape into a ball and transfer to a large bowl. Cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel and let stand in a warm place until the dough is doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

NOTE Farmer Ground spelt flour can be found at Whole Foods, but any local, finely ground spelt flour will work here.

Master the Knot Gristmill’s unique shape takes a cue from Novick-Finder’s croissant obsession. “The caramelized ends are worth fighting over!”

PINCH THE DOUGH With the

sticky side up, press the outside edges of the ball together to seal.

with your palm and rotate the oval so the long side faces you.

FORM A LOG Working from the opposite side, fold the dough over itself 3 or 4 times to form a tight log.

ROLL IT OUT Using both hands and

TIE A KNOT Tie the rope into a

working from the center of the log to the ends, roll into a 12-inch rope. F E B R UA R Y 2017

FLATTEN Press down on the dough

loose knot with 2 long tails. Transfer to a baking sheet; repeat.

LET RISE Slide the baking sheets into 2 very large plastic bags. Fill with air and tie. Proof for 1 hour. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Big Ideas

The Gastronaut Files

Everything Knots

Top That From New York bagels to a Roman pasta, garlic knot inspiration can come from anywhere. Here, three of our faves.

Cacio e Pepe Knots

Active: 10 min; Total: 35 min; Makes 16

Preheat the oven to 425°. In a small bowl, mix 2 Tbsp. each poppy seeds and sesame seeds. Brush the knots with garlic butter (recipe below), leaving the garlic pieces behind, and sprinkle with the seeds. Bake the knots for about 20 minutes, until puﬀed and browned. Drizzle with more garlic butter and sprinkle with 2 Tbsp. dried onion flakes. Serve warm.

Preheat the oven to 425°. Brush the knots with garlic butter (recipe below), leaving the garlic pieces behind, and top with freshly grated ParmigianoReggiano, freshly ground black pepper and flaky sea salt. Bake the knots for about 20 minutes, until puﬀed and browned. Drizzle with more garlic butter and garnish with more ParmigianoReggiano and pepper. Serve warm.

Classic Garlic Knots

Active: 15 min; Total: 1 hr 30 min; Makes 16

Preheat the oven to 425°. In a medium saucepan, melt 2 sticks unsalted butter in 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil. Add 20 cloves (about 1 head) coarsely chopped garlic and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is very soft and golden, about 45 minutes. Keep warm over very low heat. Gently brush the knots with the garlic butter, leaving the garlic pieces behind, and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Bake the garlic knots for about 20 minutes, until puﬀed and browned. Drizzle with more garlic butter and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley. Serve warm. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

4949

Big Ideas

Diet Road Test

Hunger Games AFTER A LIFETIME OF RESISTING CALORIE-COUNTING AND MEAL-SKIPPING, FOOD WRITER LAURIE WOOLEVER DIPS A TOE INTO THE “INTERMITTENT FASTING” TREND. READ ON TO GET THE SKINNY. ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROB BAILEY

NEVER REALLY pounds before a TV understood fasting, appearance to promote nor had any desire the book I’d co-written to try it. Growing with Anthony Bourdain, up, the closest so I decided to give this my Catholic family fasting fad a try. came to it was Turns out, there’s a whole during Lent, which just meant menu of fasting diets to that on Fridays, we’d choose from. Some people eat big planks of deep-fried (the idle rich, the criminally haddock, smothered in insane) choose the truly tartar sauce, instead of the punishing all-liquid Master usual burgers or steaks. Cleanse, a 10-day fast Denying myself food the meant to “detox” the digestive second a hunger pang struck system. Others skip meals was a terrifying, nonsensical or restrict their eating to notion, as both a food writer an eight-hour period each and a sentient human. Fasting day, then fast for the was for actors subsisting on remaining 16. Because it oat paste, cash and selfseemed reasonable and satisfaction in order to shrink doable enough, I followed down to ghostlike versions the 5:2 Fast Diet, devised of themselves for a starring by British physician Michael role. Fasting was for political Mosley, on which one eats prisoners, the pious, and a weight-maintaining number patients preparing for medical of calories—2,000 for women, procedures. It was not for me. 2,400 for men—five days per Then I started hearing week. On the other two days, about intermittent fasting. consecutive or not, you eat a My father-in-law, a retired quarter of those calories—500 stonemason, dropped two and 600, respectively—causing sizes by skipping lunch every the body to burn through day. The book publisher Dan fat reserves without depleting Halpern told me he forgoes muscle mass. Research breakfast and barely eats suggests that intermittent The idea of fasting isn’t to torture lunch, which has helped him fasting also speeds up cell yourself; it’s to become accustomed to keep off unwanted weight. repair and toxin elimination, being hungry without panicking.” Even TV host Jimmy Kimmel reduces inflammation confessed to having lost 25 and lowers cholesterol. pounds by restricting calories, and has kept them off by fasting. For guidance, I read The Essential 5:2 Fast Diet Planner by I’ve long maintained a healthy weight with portion control nutritionist Charlotte Debeugny and food stylist Delphine and exercise, but vanity wins, and I wanted to drop some de Montalier, which includes calorie tables, menu plans and

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

ADVENTURE CANADA

ARCTIC SAFARI JULY 30 - AUGUST 10, 2017 ABOARD THE OCEAN ENDEAVOUR

This voyage is presented in support of WWF-Canada

WWF-Canada, Nikon Canada and award-winning tour operator Adventure Canada have partnered to present the 2017 Arctic Safari in celebration of WWF’s 50th anniversary, and Canada’s 150th anniversary. Join WWFCanada wildlife conservation experts Paul Crowley, Vice President of Arctic Programs, and Pete Ewins, Lead Species Specialist, on a journey deep into the home of iconic wildlife and the remote Inuit communities. Your journey is further enhanced by our guest experts, Inuit culturalist Lois Suluk-Locke, acclaimed National Geographic husband-and-wife photographers David Doubilet and Jennifer Hayes; award-winning writer Alanna Mitchell, author of Sea Sick: The Global Ocean in Crisis and co-author of Franklin’s Lost Ship. A portion of your trip proceeds will go directly to support the ongoing work of WWF-Canada in the Arctic.

This voyage will be complemented by the free onboard Nikon equipment loaner program

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14 Front St. S., Mississauga, Ontario L5H 2C4 Canada TICO Reg# 4001400

Big Ideas

Diet Road Test

recipes whose titles (“My Ratatouille for the Day,” “Like a Chili”) made me laugh with nervous dread. Armed with guarded optimism and the mortal fear of looking chubby on television, I started a month of 5:2. On the non-fasting days, I stuck to my well-established routine, eating vegetables, fruits and lean proteins, snacking on nuts and dark chocolate, and consuming my carbs in wine form. The fasting days, however, were a different story. After the first week I started to experience an emotional arc akin to the five stages of grief as I mourned the loss of each calorie.

Which, naturally, led to depression. “I’m not meant to succeed on this diet,” I’d moan. “I’m enraged, a little tipsy, I’ve picked up smoking, and I’m hungry.” After two weeks, having shed four pounds and the will to live, I contacted Debeugny. I complained about my irritability (irritably), whined about how little food constituted 500 calories, and asked what to do with my rage. “That’s just your blood glucose levels dropping below normal. When you feel that way, eat a handful of nuts or a piece of fruit,” she said. “The idea of 5:2 isn’t to torture yourself; it’s to become accustomed to being hungry IRST CAME without panicking, which denial. “With takes some practice. If you energy go over by a few hundred and a positive calories, it’s not a failure.” outlook,” Huh. I’d apparently been said the a little too hard on myself. book, “you’ll Debeugny’s reassurances get through the Fast Days got me, eventually, to 5:2 without too much difficulty, acceptance. I tried the book’s if any!” I felt satisfied with 500-calorie recipes—a Thai tea and a hard-boiled egg chicken stir-fry, a lentil and (90 calories) for breakfast. smoked haddock salad—that That is, until anger (and kept me satisfied far longer How many calories are in a hunger) kicked in. It’s only than hard-boiled eggs and goddamn shot of whiskey, and is it 10 a.m., I’d realize, and whiskey. And I started to think too early to start drinking?” I’ve already blown through of my fasting days as practice nearly 50 percent of my for eating less overall, instead calories with a second egg of a crazy crash diet meant and some almonds (50 calories). How am I supposed to to hollow out my cheekbones and my soul. By letting go of the work? Why won’t that dog stop barking? How many calories superstrict calorie monitoring, I soon found myself satisfied are in a goddamn shot of whiskey (95), and is it too early with less food, even on non-fasting days. It became easier to to start drinking? push past that feeling of being hungry. I’d begin bargaining with myself. If I made it through an After a month, I’m pleased to report that I’ve lost a grand hour without eating (or breaking) anything, I’d take a total of eight pounds—as well as my temporary cigarette habit half-shot of whiskey and smoke a cigarette (0 calories), the and my fear of going hungry. original diet lunch.

Laurie Woolever is the co-author of Anthony Bourdain’s Appetites: A Cookbook.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

J OIN HEALTH F O R A TRA N SF ORMA TIV E STA Y A T BE A U TIF U L CAN YON RANCH WELLNES S RESO RT IN LE N OX, MA SSA C H U SE T T S Connect one-on-one with inspiring experts and speakers from Health and Canyon Ranch. Enjoy delicious meals and ahh-mazing spa treatments as you discover the healthiest, happiest you.

WORK OUT WITH TRACY ANDERSON Fitness pro, creator of the Tracy Anderson Method and star of more than 170 DVDs!

MAY 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 7, 2017

CANYON RANCH WELLNESS RESORT IN LENOX, MASSACHUSETTS

Space is limited. To reserve, call 800.742.9000 and mention group code Health Total Wellness. For weekend activity information and updates, please visit health.com/totalwellness and follow #healthtotalwellness. CANYON RANCH: canyonranch HEALTH: facebook.com/health | twitter.com/goodhealth | instagram.com/healthmagazine | pinterest.com/health | health.com

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BOTTLE SERVICE

In the Clear? BLANCO TEQUILAS ARE AMONG THE PUREST SPIRITS IN THE WORLD, BUT DOES THAT REALLY MEAN THEY’RE GOOD FOR YOU? RAY ISLE WEIGHS IN. PLUS: WE TESTED DOZENS TO FIND YOU THE BEST.

THE F&W TOP 10 ESPOLÒN BLANCO ($26)

A perennial value in 100 percent agave tequilas, with a silky texture and a spicy kick.

TAPATIO BLANCO ($36)

Smoky and complex, with anise and classic herbaceous agave notes. Plus, it’s a steal for a liter.

ASTRAL ($39)

For this potent, floral tequila, the juice from the crushed agave ferments together with the pulp—a long-abandoned traditional approach.

CASA NOBLE CRYSTAL ($40)

Vegetal and funky (in a good way), this formidable blanco is one of the few that’s certified organic.

SIEMBRA VALLES BLANCO ($40) Agave from the Jalisco

lowlands helps give this blanco its earthy character (highlands tequilas tend to be fruitier).

PASOTE BLANCO ($45)

This subtle tequila from master distiller Felipe Camarena heads toward the lighter, greener side of agave, with grass and mint.

FORTALEZA BLANCO ($50)

Guillermo Sauza started Fortaleza almost 30 years after his family sold its namesake brand. All of his tequilas—including this minty, unaged version—are superb. OUR FAVE EXPRESIONES

DEL CORAZÓN ARTISANAL EDITION BLANCO ($60)

Agave at two different sugar levels is distilled and blended for this flavorful blanco—think eucalyptus, black pepper and plantain.

ROCA PATRÓN SILVER ($69)

Emphatically agave-scented, this is made with the traditional tahona method, using a two-ton volcanic rock to crush the roasted piñas.

CASA DRAGONES BLANCO ($75) This smooth bottling with

lime peel and pine needle notes is so good, who cares if it’s healthy?

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: ben alsop; style editor: suzie myers. ice courtesy of hundredweight ice

F YOU BLITHELY FOLLOW the interwebs, you may have come to the conclusion that tequila is a miracle drink. In the past year, stories have bounced around about the wonders of Mexico’s most famous spirit: It’ll help you lose weight, improve the bacteria in your gut, lower blood sugar levels, fight cholesterol and even reduce your chances of developing dementia. Most of these claims, unfortunately, are boneheaded. And, honestly, declaring any 80-proof liquor to be “good for you” is mighty suspect in the first place. However, there is a tiny shred of truth to the idea that tequila won’t damage you as cavalierly as some other spirits might. One hundred percent blue agave blanco tequilas—which, unlike reposados or añejos, aren’t aged in wood—are low in congeners, the chemical impurities that are hard for your system to process and can exacerbate hangovers. Also, since these tequilas are made solely from a succulent plant and not a grain, the glutenaverse among us can relax. But will tequila make you thinner? Well...it has no fewer calories than any other spirit of equal strength. But if you drink it straight, at least you’re not adding any calories. And our favorite bottles, featured here, all taste fantastic in a glass by themselves, with a rock or without.

p r o m ot i o n

fresh finds

← Chefs Club

Chefs Club, located in the famed Puck Building in NYC, is an innovative restaurant featuring a menu of the 25 best dishes from 25 of the most talented chefs in the world.

chefsclub.com • 212.941.1100

NEWS, UPDATES, EVENTS AND MORE FROM FOOD & WINE’S PUBLISHER

→ Bravo’s Top Chef Charleston

The Emmy® and James Beard Award–winning culinary competition series Top Chef is back and heading to Charleston, South Carolina, where the challenges are inspired by the unique people, mouthwatering cuisine and rich history. This town will never be the same once these chefs sweep through! Catch Top Chef every Thursday at 9/8c on Bravo.

bravotv.com/top-chef

← Cast Iron at Half the Weight!

FOOD & WINE has teamed up with the pros at Gorham to develop our new thinner, light cast-iron cookware combining fantastic, even heat distribution. It has the same cooking, braising and roasting performance of traditional cast iron, with a durable ceramic nonstick surface—but at half the weight. It features quick heat-up and excellent heat retention on all stovetops and is oven safe to 500°F.

amazon.com/food&wineforgorham Keep Your Pants On

FWx’s new shirt collection is the perfect way to feed your closet. Proudly proclaim your love for libations or join the fight to free gluten with one of these soft and stylish tees.

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Visit us online at foodandwine.com/promo for exciting sweepstakes, promotions and events. Follow us @foodandwine.

WINE FLIGHT

New Zealand’s Wine Wonderland TRAVELERS FLOCK TO THE CENTRAL OTAGO REGION FOR TWO REASONS: THE GREAT OUTDOORS AND THE EVEN GREATER WINE. HIKE, BIKE AND PADDLE YOUR WAY BETWEEN TASTINGS WITH OUR DREAMY WEEKEND ITINERARY. BY ANDREA FROST

ENTRAL OTAGO is a state of mind—at least that’s what locals say. New Zealand’s most southerly wine region—anchored by the town of Queensland, a hub for adventure travelers—is also the country’s most beautiful. Imagine crystal-clear lakes, surging rivers, wild forests and jagged, snow-capped peaks. Is it any wonder visitors interrupt their tastings to bungee jump off bridges and hike precipitous trails? Back in the ’70s, experts claimed it was too cold and wild to make wine here, but a band of pioneering winemakers ignored their advice and planted vines—to spectacular success. And keep in mind, winter in the US means summer there, making this the perfect time to go.

Head to Gibbston Valley and the winery of the same name, founded by esteemed local winemaker Alan Brady. Because Gibbston has the coolest microclimate in Central Otago, its Pinot Noirs tend to be the region’s most delicate and nuanced. Stop by the Home Block vineyard—planted in 1983, it’s one of the oldest parcels of Pinot in New Zealand—then head into the winery’s cave, dug into the schist hillside. There, try the limited 2015 Le Maitre Pinot Noir, made with grapes from the old (for New Zealand) vines you just walked through. gibbstonvalleynz.com. 12:30 P.M. BIODYNAMICS BY THE LAKE

A gorgeous, winding drive over the dramatic Crown Range brings you to Rippon Vineyard. With rows of biodynamically farmed vines stretching down to the pristine Lake Wanaka, it has what’s arguably Otago’s most beautiful view—and that’s in a region known for its spectacular scenery. Rolfe Mills first planted here in 1982, though the property has been in the family since 1912. These days, Mills’s son Nick oversees the estate with his wife, Jo. Their subtly complex wines, like the seductive 2013 “Mature Vine” Pinot Noir, are among New Zealand’s greatest. rippon.co.nz.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

2 P.M. LUNCH VIA HELICOPTER

8:15 A.M. BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS

Strap in for a wild ride and some equally wild food with the New Zealand Adventure Company. At Wanaka airport, you’ll be met with a picnic basket of local seafood (crayfish, paua, whitebait—the works), venison, antipasto and wine, loaded into a helicopter, and flown over the lakes, forests and sheer cliffs of the South Island’s west coast. Where to eat? On one of Mt. Aspiring’s high-altitude glaciers? Or on a remote beach looking out over the Tasman Sea? It’s your helicopter, so it’s your call. Tours from $750; nzadventurecompany.co.nz.

Start the day in the charming gold-mining village of Arrowtown, about 20 minutes from Queenstown and home to the area’s greatest breakfast joint, The Chop Shop. Tucked among the old buildings and museums, the restaurant offers a seasonally changing menu from its airy, open kitchen. But regardless of the time of year, the fluffy ricotta hotcakes and Turkish eggs (served over thick yogurt with burnt chile and dill butter) are always top-notch, and the coffee is the best for miles. facebook.com/ thechopshopfoodmerchants. F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

from left: courtesy of cardrona hotel; ingalls photography; dominic loneragan/citizens of the world; camilla rutherford; simon darby (2)

DAY ONE

WHERE TO TASTE

10 A.M. THE COOLEST WINES AROUND

Our kind of exercise: stomping grapes at Rippon Vineyard, then raising a glass after the workout.

6 P.M. CHECK IN AND HEAD OUT

NOON FEAST ALFRESCO

Drop your bags at the iconic Cardrona Hotel, on curvy Crown Range Road between Queenstown and Wanaka. Built in 1863 during the gold rush, its historic facade looks frozen in time, though the 16 guest rooms have been renovated (and the pub no longer restricts men headed over the mountains to just one drink). Then get in a quick adventure before dinner—why not? The hotel staff will happily set you up for a horseback ride along the Cardrona River, or give you maps to local hiking trails if you prefer walking. Rooms from $150 per night; cardronahotel.co.nz.

For lunch, relax on the restaurant terrace at Mt. Difficulty (or Mt. D, as the winery is affectionately called by locals). Order a glass of the crisp 2016 Bannockburn Pinot Gris and take in the sweeping views of the Cromwell basin, a glacial valley framed by Lake Dunstan, the Kawarau River and the Pisa Range. The simple, excellent menu offers everything from antipasti platters with aged serrano ham and local cheeses to wild red tussock Fiordland venison served with smoked parsnip puree. Plus, the restaurant list offers a range of older, single-release and other one-off cuvées you won’t find anywhere else. mtdifficulty.co.nz.

7:20 P.M. HANG WITH THE WINEMAKING CROWD

The blue-trimmed, stucco White House, a 23-year-old institution known for its chill vibes, Mediterranean menu and extensive wine list, is a popular destination for local winemakers (and everyone else in Wanaka for that matter). Order the sardine-and-tomato bruschetta and a bottle of crisp Prophet’s Rock Dry Riesling—possibly, since the summer sun sets so late, out in the restaurant’s lovely courtyard. 011-64-3443-9595.

DAY TWO

WHERE TO TASTE

2:30 P.M. BIKES, BOATS & AUTOMOBILES

On the 19-mile drive from Bannockburn to Clyde, stop at the Bruce Jackson Lookout for picture-postcard vistas of Lake Dunstan. But once you arrive, ditch the car: Bike It Now! will outfit you for a five-mile ride along the Otago Rail Trail, wrapping up in Alexandra. From there, Clutha River Cruises will take you (and your bikes) back to your starting point. The largest river by volume in New Zealand, the Clutha was a vital thoroughfare during the gold rush: Picturesque buildings and old mines from that era line the riverbanks. Bike rentals from $40 for three hours; bikeitnow.co.nz.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

7 P.M. SPEND A NIGHT IN THE 1800 s

Back in Clyde, check into the impeccably renovated Olivers Lodge—ask for one of the “stables” rooms, which preserve the building’s original 1860s schist walls and rough-hewn timber beams (albeit with some distinctly non-1860s touches like Wi-Fi). Have dinner in the rustically beautiful restaurant with stone floors, wooden tables and an open kitchen, which occupies the original trading store where miners once bought their provisions. These days, though, the menu runs toward dishes like pork filet stuffed with black pudding and fennel slaw, or smoked rabbit and pearl barley risotto. Like the entire Central Otago region, it’s come a long way. Rooms from $166 per night; oliverscentralotago.co.nz.

8:15 A.M. STRAIGHT OFF THE FARM

First stop: the Federal Diner, locally loved for its flat whites (lattes, Down Under) and “world-famous in Wanaka” cheese or date scones. They’ll sustain you for the scenic 45-minute drive to Bannockburn through Otago’s fruit-growing territory. Stop at a few roadside stalls for peaches, apricots and plump cherries, and keep an eye out for the Wooing Tree Vineyard’s namesake tree, which rises up in the middle of the vineyard and is Central Otago’s version of Makeout Point. federaldiner.co.nz. 10 A.M. WORLD-CLASS PINOT NOIR

Melbourne-based Andrea Frost contributes to wine and lifestyle magazines around the world.

Fruit trees give way to vines as you drive up to Bannockburn’s Felton Road, home of New Zealand’s most sought-after Pinot Noirs. Englishman Nigel Greening, a self-confessed Pinot Noir addict, bought the property in 2000; visits are by appointment only, so be sure to call ahead. The sit-down, tutored tasting of old and new vintages offers both a detailed lesson on the Bannockburn region and the chance to sample some of the country’s best wines. Next, you’ll visit various sites on the property—including a shed known as the Voodoo Lounge—to learn about biodynamic winemaking and viticulture. feltonroad.com. F E B R UA R Y 2017

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The New Healthy After years of going whole hog, many chefs are lightening things up in the kitchenâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and out. We asked 10 pros who have changed the way they cook, eat and live to share their most ingenious (and downright delicious) healthy hacksâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;so you can whip up fit, flavorful dishes and feel great about going back for more. Photographs by Con Poulos 58

chickpeas and kale in spicy pomodoro sauce, p. 90

Bowls by Tomoro Pottery from Tortoise General Store.

Give Beans a Chance “I’m a carboholic,” admits Missy Robbins of Brooklyn’s Lilia, who has changed her diet for the better in the past three years, shedding 40 pounds. One of Robbins’s biggest healthy revelations: the range of the humble garbanzo. “Chickpeas absorb sauce like pasta does, so I now use them instead.”

Add Some Spice

Nosh Smarter

Chef Jared Wentworth of Chicago’s Longman & Eagle raids the spice pantry to magnify flavor without adding excess sodium and fat. He uses seasonings like Middle Eastern za’atar and freshly ground coriander and cumin to boost the impact of everything from fish and chicken to vegetables and potatoes.

Charmoula-Spiced Salmon with Za’atar Vegetables Active 40 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4

Grass-Fed Beef Jerky

VEGETABLES

Active 45 min; Total 6 hr 45 min plus cooling; Makes 1 lb. ½ cup Bragg Liquid Aminos sauce (see Note) 2 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger 2 Tbsp. finely grated garlic 1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup 1 Tbsp. adobo sauce (from a can of chipotles in adobo) 1 Tbsp. coarsely ground black pepper 1 tsp. fine sea salt 2 lbs. grass-fed flank steak, frozen for 45 minutes, then sliced 1/8 inch thick against the grain

1. In a large resealable plastic bag, whisk together everything except the flank steak. Add the steak, seal the bag and turn to coat. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to 6 hours. 2. Preheat the oven to 165° or the lowest possible setting. Set a rack on each of 3 large rimmed baking sheets. Remove the beef from the marinade and spread the slices on the racks, leaving 1/4 inch between the slices. Bake for about 6 hours, or until the jerky is dried but still chewy; flip the slices halfway through baking. Let cool on the racks before serving.

½ lb. baby golden beets, scrubbed and quartered

PICK UP STICKS

½ lb. baby carrots, halved lengthwise

“I use chopsticks instead of a fork to keep things interesting and engaging,” says chef Matt Jennings of Townsman in Boston. The benefit? More mindful and less rushed eating, so you don’t consume more than you intend.

¼ lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. za’atar (see Note) Kosher salt and pepper ¾ lb. baby bok choy, chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice CHARMOULA

1 cup lightly packed parsley leaves

DRINK YOUR SOUP

1 cup lightly packed cilantro leaves

“Instead of hot coffee or tea, I drink proteinrich miso soup to jumpstart my day,” says Shawn Pham, chef of Simbal in Los Angeles. “There are healthy macrobiotics in natural miso that are similar to kombucha.”

2 large garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp. ground coriander 2 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. smoked paprika 1 tsp. crushed red pepper ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh lemon juice Kosher salt and black pepper SALMON

Four 5- to 6-oz. salmon fillets Kosher salt and black pepper

NOTE Bragg Liquid Aminos is a gluten-free, soybean-based sauce that’s often used in place of soy sauce and tamari. It’s available on amazon.com.

1 tsp. each ground coriander and cumin ½ tsp. smoked paprika ½ tsp. crushed red pepper 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

MAKE AHEAD The beef jerky

1. Make the vegetables Preheat the oven to 375°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the beets, carrots and mushrooms with the olive oil and za’atar and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Immediately transfer the vegetables to a large bowl and fold in the bok choy until just wilted. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. 2. Meanwhile, make the charmoula In a food processor, combine everything except the salt and pepper and puree until nearly smooth. Scrape into a medium bowl and season with salt and pepper. 3. Make the salmon Season the fish with salt and black pepper. In a small bowl, whisk the ground coriander and cumin with the paprika and crushed red pepper. Season the salmon with the spice mixture. 4. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the fish to the skillet skin side down and press gently with a spatula to flatten. Cook the fish over moderate heat until the skin is golden, about 4 minutes. Flip the fish and cook until medium within, about 3 minutes longer. Drain briefly on paper towels. Serve the fish with the vegetables and charmoula. NOTE Za’atar, a Middle Eastern spice blend made with sesame seeds, sumac and herbs, is available at specialty food stores and Middle Eastern markets and on amazon.com. MAKE AHEAD The charmoula can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before serving. WINE Crisp, spicy Moroccan

can be refrigerated for 2 weeks.

rosé: 2015 Ouled Thaleb.

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers

Reach for jerky instead of chips when you crave something salty or savory. You can even make your own: Seamus Mullen of NYC’s Tertulia preps his with grassfed flank steak and keeps it on hand to quell snack attacks.

Wrap It Up Bobby Flay of NYCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gato and Bar Americain recently rediscovered cooking in parchment, a classic technique that delicately steams fish or meat with aromatic ingredients so you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to add much fat. He serves this grouper with citrus, roasted piquillos and olives for a pop of flavor.

steamed grouper with martini relish and sour orange sauce, p. 90

Sweeten the Deal That a.m. oatmeal can get awfully boring without maple syrup or sugar. Missy Robbins’s solution? Frozen berries, which she turns into a sweet and speedy sauce for her farro porridge.

Bowl by Jim Franco Ceramics.

Farro Breakfast Porridge with Raspberries Total 30 min; Serves 4 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1½ cups pearled farro 3½ cups boiling water, plus more if needed 1 cup frozen raspberries

water, ½ cup at a time, stirring in more as the water is almost absorbed but the farro is still soupy, 10 to 15 minutes total. Cover the saucepan and simmer over moderately low heat until the farro is al dente, about 15 minutes.

½ tsp. ground cinnamon Kosher salt Chopped unsalted pistachios, for garnish

1. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. Add the farro and cook, stirring, until toasted, about 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the boiling

2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, cook the raspberries over moderately low heat until they just begin to break down, about 3 minutes. Stir in the honey.

2 Tbsp. honey ½ cup fat-free Greek-style yogurt

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3. Stir the yogurt and cinnamon into the farro and season with salt. (If a looser porridge is preferred, stir in more boiling water, a tablespoon at a time.) Spoon the porridge into bowls, top with the raspberry sauce and pistachios and serve.

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Tap into Tonics Soda and juices are full of empty calories. Seamus Mullen steers clear of them entirely by making his own quick tonics with fresh ingredients. He adds nutrientdense chia seeds, which plump up in the liquid and make for an even more satisfying sip.

Thai Basil, Grapefruit and Chia Tonic Active 15 min Total 2 hr 15 min Serves 4 Âž cup fresh grapefruit juice with pulp 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup 2 Tbsp. chia seeds One Thai basil sprig or 4-inch rosemary sprig

In a large pitcher, combine the grapefruit juice with the maple syrup, chia seeds, Thai basil and 4 cups of water and stir well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Stir the tonic before serving.

Know Your Nut Milks They’re not just for coffee anymore, says George Mendes of NYC’s Aldea and Lupulo. “Homemade nut milk is a great stand-in for dairy in soups,” he says. “Or even to make a vinaigrette for salad.”

Winter Salad with Walnut Milk Vinaigrette Total 25 min; Serves 4

GO WITH THE GRAIN

Matthew Accarrino, chef at SPQR in San Francisco, swears by his quinoa “meatballs” (p. 91). Instead of beef, he blends the grain with dried breadcrumbs. They’re finished with vibrant tomato sauce, fresh kale and grated Parmigiano— you won’t miss the meat.

Just Add Turmeric This peppery spice is as prized for its antioxidant power as it is for that sunny hue. Turmeric is a staple ingredient for L.A. chef Marcel Vigneron of Wolf. He adds it to steak and eggs to bump up the health quotient and liven up the flavor.

Golden Steak and Eggs Total 40 min; Serves 4 One 1-lb. flatiron steak Kosher salt and pepper 2 tsp. turmeric powder ¼ cup coconut oil 12 cups baby spinach (7½ oz.) 1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh horseradish 1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh turmeric 4 large eggs 4 slices wheat bread, toasted

1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Season the steak with salt and pepper, then rub all over with the turmeric powder. In a large heatproof skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the coconut oil over moderately high heat. Add the steak and cook, turning once, until lightly charred on both sides and medium-rare within,

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about 4 minutes per side. Transfer the steak to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes. Wipe out the skillet.

GET LEAN AND MEAN

Add flavor to low-fat proteins like chicken cutlets and fish fillets by marinating them first so you’ll need less fat later. George Mendes’s smoky cutlets (p. 92) are infused with smoked paprika before he sears them.

2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the coconut oil over moderately high heat. Add the spinach and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until just wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the horseradish and season with salt. Keep warm. 3. In the large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of coconut oil over moderate heat. Stir in the fresh turmeric until the sizzling subsides and the oil is golden. Crack the eggs into the skillet and fry until the whites are almost set, about 2 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake for about 3 minutes, until the whites are set but the yolks are runny.

½ cup walnut halves ½ cup water 1½ Tbsp. sherry vinegar 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp. walnut oil Kosher salt and pepper 1 small head of red leaf lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces One 8-oz. head of escarole, white and light green leaves only, torn into bite-size pieces Thinly sliced candystriped beets, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the walnuts in a pie plate and toast for 8 to 10 minutes, until fragrant. Let cool. 2. In a blender, puree the cooled walnuts with the water until smooth. Add the vinegar and pulse to combine. Using a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl, strain the walnuts, pressing on the solids; discard the solids. Whisk in the olive and walnut oils and season the dressing with salt and pepper. 3. In a serving bowl, combine the lettuce, escarole and beets. Add the vinaigrette and toss well; serve. MAKE AHEAD The dressing can be refrigerated overnight.

4. Thinly slice the steak against the grain. Pile the spinach on the toasts and top with the steak. Carefully invert the fried eggs onto the steak and serve.

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Cut Cream from the Equation When it comes to achieving a thick, satisfying sauce, cream isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only game in town. Matthew Accarrino avoids using it when he can, opting instead for low-calorie cornstarch.

winter squash and savoy cabbage gratin with garlic crema, p. 90

Casserole by Workaday Handmade.

milk chocolate– peanut custards, p. 91

Bowls by Jim Franco Ceramics.

Make Dessert Work Harder If you’re going to finish with something sweet, make it count. Using pureed peanuts to thicken a rich chocolate custard is one of Matthew Accarrino’s most delicious healthful hacks. Nuts add a good amount of protein and fiber to dessert.

Own Your Energy Bars Those packaged storebought bars are full of promises—and plenty of sugar and preservatives. To give him a boost when exercising, San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino of Cockscomb makes his own, loaded with almonds, dates, dark chocolate and coffee salt.

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Clean Bars

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease the bottom and sides of a 9-inch-square baking pan with nonstick spray. Line the pan with parchment paper, allowing a 2-inch overhang on 2 sides.

Active 30 min; Total 2 hr 30 min Makes 18 Nonstick spray, for greasing ½ cup sliced almonds

2. Spread the almonds in a pie plate and bake in the oven for about 5 minutes, until lightly toasted. Let cool completely.

1 lb. Medjool dates, split and pitted Two 3.5-oz. dark chocolate bars (72%), coarsely chopped

3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the dates with the chocolate at medium speed until the dates are pasty and the chocolate is evenly distributed, about 1 minute. At low speed, beat in the toasted almonds, raisins, coffee salt and olive oil until well mixed, about 5 minutes; scrape down the side of the bowl as needed.

¾ cup raisins 1½ Tbsp. Bitterman’s Espresso Salt (see Note) 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

4. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan, top with a lightly greased sheet of parchment paper and pack in an even layer. Refrigerate until well chilled, about 2 hours. Cut into 18 bars and serve chilled. NOTE To purchase Bitterman’s,

see page 18 of Trendspotting. You can also substitute 1 tablespoon of flaky sea salt mixed with 1½ teaspoons of instant espresso powder. MAKE AHEAD The bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

continued on p. 90

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Get Off the If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re like us, the chance to unplug, unwind and tune into your surroundings is the ultimate luxury. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a trek around your own private island or a life-changing meal at a Himalayan retreat, here are seven great escapes to book now. F E B R UA R Y 2017

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PUMPHOUSE POINT, TASMANIA “I traveled to the hotel by seaplane, which was an incredible way to arrive. As we dipped under the misty clouds, the breathtaking Pumphouse Point, a former power station, suddenly came into view. Surrounded by infinite mountains, in the middle of the majestic Lake St. Clair, I was awestruck by the area’s natural beauty. There’s nothing around for miles, but that’s exactly why you go there.” —Sharyn Cairns, photographer, @sharyncairns (Turn to page 81 for details.)

Grid

Arriving by seaplane at Tasmania’s Pumphouse Point retreat.

Photograph by Sharyn Cairns.

Fe e d Yo u r Soul

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SONG SAA, CAMBODIA “There’s nothing like a private island escape. Some of the most beautiful, remote and naturally preserved ones I’ve visited are just off the southwest coast of Cambodia, including Song Saa. Full of white sand beaches and pristine rain forests, a short boat ride from Sihanoukville, its resort features a number of initiatives to promote responsible tourism so that these islands can remain the idyllic sanctuaries they are. For example, the owners built a marine reserve to protect coral reefs and fishing grounds, and created a sustainable

Just off the Cambodian coast in the Gulf of Thailand, Song Saa is the perfect place to hit refresh.

Photographs by Christopher Wise (opposite) and John Laurie (this page).

food program with locally grown ingredients. I love to start the day with a traditional breakfast of steaming noodle soup (kuy teav) or comforting rice porridge (borbor), and I look forward to ending it with a feast of grilled meats and fish marinated with lemongrass, makrut lime leaves, turmeric, garlic, galangal and shallots. Between meals, I paddle board and snorkel around the reefs, and make sure to block out time for a deep-muscle Khmer massage, all of which leaves me feeling relaxed and invigorated.” —Deana Saukam, food and travel writer, @faimfatale

F i n d Yo u r Center

Northern Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ananda Spa features the Ayurvedic and macrobiotic cuisine of chef Sandeep Biswas, opposite.

Photographs by Melanie Dunea.

(which runs cold, I’m told), and over the next four days I underwent 24 mind-body healing treatments, from hot basalt stone massages to therapeutic sweating and meditation, in order to shed toxins and induce relaxation. It wasn’t all easy, but after day two I could feel the transformation from within. By the time I boarded the plane home, I was a new person: focused, supercharged, calm—and ready to bring some balance to my frenetic life back home.” —Melanie Dunea, author and photographer, @melaniedunea

RISHIKESH, INDIA “I checked myself into the Ananda Spa for a crash course in balance. Located in northern India, surrounded by the white-capped Himalayas, the resort is renowned for its Ayurvedic program: an ancient study of natural medicine designed to align body and mind. This region, a part of India that is alcohol-free and vegetarian, is the birthplace of meditation and yoga. I wondered if a New York hedonist like me could survive it. After an initial assessment, I was prescribed a diet of broths, juices and cooked vegetables to recalibrate my body F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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Out-of-this-world landscapes and splendid isolation make Iceland a hikerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream. opposite: The famed Hraundrangi lava spire.

Photographs by Ingalls Photography. F E B R UA R Y 2017

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ICELAND “Outside of Reykjavik, the landscape quickly reverts to its natural state: glacial lagoons; lush, grassy hills; and rushing, rocky rivers. It’s one of the most unique places I’ve ever visited. My ideal day would include a hike to the Reykjadalur Hot Springs, followed by a visit to the incredible Skogafoss, Svartifoss or Seljalandsfoss waterfalls. Or a walk on the

stunning, eerie black sand beach in Vik, with a soak in the steamy Seljavallalaug natural pool, followed by a tomatoinfused lunch in the greenhouse at Fridheimar Farm in Reykholt. Every stretch of road brings something entirely new.” —Lauren Wells, travel writer, @laurenswells

Expand Yo u r Horizons

SAWTOOTH VALLEY, IDAHO “Winter in the Sawtooths is about getting away from it all: cooking meals in your rented cabin, visiting the local saloon after a day of backcountry skiing, soaking in the hot springs. One of my favorite spots is the Elkhorn Boat Box [pictured]—it’s like a hot tub in the middle of the wilderness on the banks of the Salmon River. You fill it yourself with piping-hot geothermal water that comes straight out of the hillside.” —Greta Rybus, photographer, @gretarybus

Soak, Sip and Repeat

Snowshoe and ski without the crowds in Idaho’s Sawtooth Valley—then revive with a soak in natural hot springs.

Photographs by Greta Rybus and Zach Nugent.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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Guests at the Four Seasons Tented Camp in Chiang Rai learn to ride, feed and care for rescued elephants.

Photographs by Andrew Rowat.

CHIANG RAI, THAILAND “In the Golden Triangle, where Burma, Laos and Thailand dovetail, you’ll find the Four Seasons’ village of canvas-top tents surrounded by bamboo forest, tea fields and lush mountains. Perhaps the most magical thing about the place is that it’s also a wellness sanctuary for elephants. In the F E B R UA R Y 2017

morning, their low rumbles gently shake me from my plush pillow-top bed—just early enough to catch the sunrise over the misty Laos mountains. I feed these two-ton beauties a breakfast of bananas before a spiritual ‘mahout-style’ bareback ride through camp.” —Kate Donnelly, travel writer, @k8bdonnelly 78

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Wa l k o n the Wild Side

BIG SUR, CALIFORNIA “I love how peaceful trail running is here. My favorite course is the Ventana Double Cone, an out-and-back from Bottcher’s Gap campground that climbs up to a high peak where you can see the whole Ventana Wilderness and incredible ocean views. It’s 29 miles and takes seven hours, but to run that and never see anyone else is pretty awesome. For something shorter, Andrew Molera State Park has a six-mile loop or a one-mile path out to the ocean. And, of course, Big Sur Bakery for pizza or just-out-of-the-oven breads is a must post-run.” —Justin Cogley, chef, @justincogley

Run for the Hills

Big Sur’s gorgeous, rugged coastline is inspiring enough to turn anyone into a runner.

Photograph by Erin Kunkel.

H o w t o P l a n Yo u r E s c a p e Ta s m a n i a

STAY Pumphouse Point, a 1940s hydroelectric station transformed into a luxury hotel, sits at the edge of an 820-foot-long pier on Lake St. Clair. The hotel’s 18 rooms are divided between the midcentury-inspired Pumphouse and the Art Deco–style Shorehouse. It’s a two and a half hour drive from Hobart, but we recommend taking a seaplane from town for an even more dramatic approach. From $210 per night; pumphousepoint.com.au. DO Start the day with canoeing or trout fishing, and walk the trails in search of pygmy possums and wallabies. End it with a glass of local Pinot Noir in the hotel’s bar. Take a day trip to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), the largest privately funded museum in Australia, located within the Moorilla winery on the Berridale peninsula in Hobart.

Cambodia

STAY Song Saa spans two tiny islands, Koh Ouen and Koh Bong, that are connected by a footbridge—but locals call them song saa, Khmer for “the sweethearts.” About a 30-minute boat ride from Sihanoukville, the resort features 27 airy, thatch-roof bungalows, many of which open right onto—or hover over—the turquoise water. From $1,098 per night; songsaa.com. DO Sunrise yoga and meditation ease you into the day as you work your way up to kayaking and a trek through the rain forest. Wind down with a Khmer massage and a tropical cocktail on the beach at the Driftwood Bar.

India

STAY Ananda Spa is a colonial-style hotel tucked into the foothills of the Himalayas above the city of Rishikesh. Choose from more than 80 traditional Ayurvedic and Western wellness treatments. &Beyond travel (andbeyond.com) organizes airport transfers, hotels and local guides to the area. From $450 per night; anandaspa.com.

Four penned most of the White Album. While the chef caters meals to your regimen at the Ananda, there are many healthy options in town as well. Near the famous Lakshman Jhula bridge, drink a good strong coffee or herbal tea at Devraj Coffee Corner and German Bakery and buy some local honey at Honey Hut. Stock up on Himalayan pink salt, aromatherapy oils, herbal teas and local soaps at Arora Provision Store.

Iceland

STAY The Ion Luxury Adventure Hotel in Selfoss is a minimalist oasis surrounded by lava fields, in what feels like the middle of nowhere. Situated near Thingvellir National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), an hour’s drive from Reykjavik, it’s an ideal base for exploring Iceland’s geological wonders. From $300 per night; ioniceland.is. DO All that hiking and hot spring soaking can work up an appetite. The family-run Fridheimar Farm (fridheimar.is) serves a fantastic lunch in its greenhouse, with fresh herbs you snip yourself. For a cozy seaside lunch in the Western Fjords, book a table at Bjargarsteinn Mathús (bjargarsteinn.is), and follow it up with a hike along the spectacular cliff from Fjöruhúsid to Arnarstapi.

Idaho

STAY While many resorts in the Sawtooth Valley, including the famed Redfish Lake Lodge (from $76 per night; redfishlake .com), are only open May through October, Mountain Village in Stanley operates year-round—it also has a market, a gas station and a saloon (from $77 per night; mountainvillage.com). Another worthy option: Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch has 15 rustic cabins for rent (from $245 per night; idahorocky .com). SV Trek (svtrek.com) and Sawtooth Mountain Guides (sawtoothguides.com) offer hut, yurt and tent rentals for more adventurous travelers.

DO Rishikesh, about 45 minutes by car from the Ananda, is home to the famous “Beatles Ashram,” where the Fab F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

DO Stock up on groceries to cook in your cabin or grab a burger and a beer at Mountain Village after a day of skiing or snowshoeing. Stop by Kasino Club for live music and a whiskey to warm you up after a soak in the Boat Box hot tub. Mountain Village has a pebble-lined pool fed by hot springs that can be rented by the hour and offers incredible panoramic views of the Sawtooth Valley.

Thailand

STAY The Four Seasons Tented Camp, located in a remote bamboo jungle of expansive hills and grasslands, combines a luxury hotel with a close-tonature feeling that’s hard to find outside a campground. Aside from the 15 luxury tents, there’s also a brand-new twobedroom lodge. From $1,660 per night; fourseasons.com. DO Two open-air salas offer spa treatments that feature the healing traditions of nearby hill tribes using local oils like energizing lemongrass and ginger. The Four Seasons’ restaurant Nong Yao serves great versions of classic Thai, Burmese and Laotian dishes, or you can book a private dinner in the wine cellar.

Big Sur STAY The Post Ranch Inn is made up of small buildings set on a ridge high above the Pacific to maximize the spectacular views (from $675 per night; postranchinn .com). The hotel will pack you a lunch to take down the Pacific Coast Highway in a Lexus convertible that guests can borrow. The 500-acre Carmel Valley Ranch recently completed a major face-lift, including 30 new suites with comfy outdoor living rooms (from $300 per night; carmelvalleyranch.com). Its Valley Kitchen restaurant has a new terrace for treetop dining. DO With everything from surfing to hiking to trail running, this stretch of California coastline is paradise for people who cringe at the thought of working out indoors. For a meal worth changing out of your workout gear, head to Aubergine at L’Auberge Carmel to try chef Justin Cogley’s incredible, globally influenced tasting menu.

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All Well & Good Sakara Life has developed a cult following for the gorgeous, goodfor-you dishes it delivers. So when its founders invited us for a daylong hang, we snagged the recipes that make everyone at their table—whether vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free— supremely happy. BY KRISTIN DONNELLY PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL TUREK

As guests come in from the cold, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re greeted with roasted vegetable flatbreads and ginger-inflected cocktails, above. For lunch, a warm lentil salad with quinoa pilaf, left. Danielle DuBoise, Sakara Life cofounder, below.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

F E B R UA R Y 2017

asks Amanda Chantal Bacon, founder of Moon Juice in Los Angeles. “I could really use some meditation time before heading back out into the world.” This might seem like an odd request at a party, but not when the hosts are Whitney Tingle and Danielle DuBoise, the creators of the cult plantbased meal delivery service Sakara Life (sakara.com). It’s not time to meditate yet, though. First, cocktails are in order. As Tingle squeezes fresh lemon juice, the women—all founders of health-minded businesses—swap wellness secrets. The best way to stay energized while traveling? Bacon swears by raw chocolate. Where to go for an eco-friendly manicure in New York City? Caroline Gogolak of the online activewear store Carbon38 loves JINsoon in Tribeca. Sarah Larson Levey, founder of Y7, a hip-hop yoga studio, asks for Los Angeles picks. The conversation moves from Fashion Week to whether retirement would be fun. (The general consensus is no.) While many hosts would use the frigid weather as an excuse to serve rich, meaty braises, Tingle and DuBoise have put together a vegan menu that tastes remarkably indulgent and satisfying—much like the meals they’re known for at Sakara Life.

“A lot of our inspiration comes from where we grew up, in Sedona, Arizona,” says Tingle. “It’s a new-age, hippie, healer type of community where people eat vegetables they grow or know their farmers by name. There, it’s understood that food is an important element of your well-being.” When these childhood best friends started their business five years ago, the goal was to bring grounding food and balance to stressedout New Yorkers—which they both had been for a while. DuBoise had modeled and acted while Tingle worked on Wall Street. After DuBoise became a certified holistic health coach, both women dived into the study of food medicine. Back when they launched Sakara Life in 2012, they were making meals in DuBoise’s home kitchen and delivering them to their first clients, mainly people working in TV and on photo shoots. Now, the business has a staff of about 80 people and delivers more than 50,000 meals per month nationwide. One of the secrets to DuBoise and Tingle’s success is that they take familiar, comforting dishes and look for ways to make them nutrient-dense, plant-based and free of gluten. Tingle likes to call this process “to Sakarafy.” By relying on a wide range of spices and flavorful sources of healthy fat, they aim to make food that’s as delicious and beautiful as it is healthy. Working with an advisory board of doctors, they design menus that balance nutrients so they leave you feeling energized, with no blood sugar spikes and crashes. And while some customers do use the meals to help with weight loss, Sakara Life never, ever counts calories. The Caesar salad (p. 94) they created for the party menu is a perfect example of their style, replacing the usual romaine with more phytonutrient-rich kale and brussels sprouts and swapping out the Parmesan cheese for a crunchy-savory crumble of almonds, hemp seeds and cheesy-tasting nutritional yeast. The crisp-edged, honey-sweetened chocolate chunk cookies (p. 88) rely on almond flour and almond butter, so the treat satisfies a sweet tooth and is packed with fiber and protein. Their powerhouse guests are thrilled to eat such healthy food at a party. In fact, some of them are clients, and all are fans. “I used to drink five cups of coffee to get through the day, but I’m down to just a half cup,” says Gogolak. “And a whole cocktail.” Now that’s our kind of balance.

THE MENU Rosemary–Ginger Sparkler, p. 88 Roasted Cauliflower Flatbreads with Celery Root Puree, p. 87 Mushroom Flatbreads with Winter Pesto, p. 87 Moroccan Flatbreads with Roasted Tomatoes, p. 87 Warm Lentil and Root Vegetable Salad with Coconut Tzatziki, p. 93 Quinoa Pilaf with Dried Apricots, p. 94 Kale–and–Brussels Sprout Caesar Salad, p. 94

Kristin Donnelly is the author of Modern Potluck: Beautiful Food to Share (Clarkson Potter).

Chocolate-Cardamom Cookies, p. 88 F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food stylist: simon andrews; prop stylist: brooke deonarine

“Does anyone here meditate?”

Hanging in the kitchen, above, and in the library, right, with vegan Caesar salad, above right, and RosemaryGinger Sparklers, below.

mushroom flatbreads with winter pesto

moroccan flatbreads with roasted tomatoes

roasted cauliflower flatbreads with celery root puree

rosemary - ginger sparkler , p . 88

A Better Way to Toast

Who says vegetables can’t be decadent? The key to these flatbreads is the chewy buckwheat base that’s a hearty, healthy vehicle for a variety of toppings. “You eat them, and you feel good,” says DuBoise. “They’re delicious, nutty and super-nutrient-dense.” Mushroom Flatbreads with Winter Pesto Active 20 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4 to 6 PESTO

¼ cup hazelnuts 1½ cups lightly packed basil leaves ¼ cup lightly packed baby arugula 1 Tbsp. finely chopped sage 1 Tbsp. nutritional yeast (see Note, p. 94) 1 tsp. minced rosemary 1½ tsp. apple cider vinegar 1½ tsp. fresh lemon juice ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Fine Himalayan pink salt and pepper TOPPINGS

½ lb. chanterelle or black trumpet mushrooms, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling Fine Himalayan pink salt and pepper 1 Thai bird chile, minced One 8-oz. head of radicchio—halved, cored and cut into 1-inch wedges 2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar 2 Tbsp. honey, preferably liquid raw (see Note, p. 88) Buckwheat Flatbreads (p. 94) or rye crackers, for serving

1. Make the pesto Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the hazelnuts in a pie plate and roast for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden and fragrant. Let cool slightly, then rub them together in a kitchen towel to remove the skins. Leave the oven on. 2. In a food processor, pulse the hazelnuts with the basil, arugula, sage, nutritional yeast, rosemary, vinegar and lemon juice until a coarse puree F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

forms. With the machine on, gradually add the olive oil until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.

Buckwheat Flatbreads (p. 94) or rye crackers, for serving Mixed microgreens and hulled hemp seeds, for garnish

3. Make the toppings On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the mushrooms with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, until the mushrooms are tender and browned. Stir in the chile.

1. Make the puree In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the celery root until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well and transfer to a large bowl; let cool slightly. Using a potato masher, mash the celery root with the olive oil, lemon juice and thyme until almost smooth; season with salt.

4. Meanwhile, arrange the radicchio on a rimmed baking sheet. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar with the honey until smooth. Drizzle over the radicchio and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 15 minutes, until the radicchio is wilted and browned in spots.

2. Meanwhile, make the toppings Preheat the oven to 400°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the cauliflower with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, until tender and browned in spots.

5. Spread the pesto on the buckwheat flatbreads and top with the radicchio and mushrooms. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and serve.

3. Spread the puree on the buckwheat flatbreads and top with the cauliflower. Garnish with microgreens and hulled hemp seeds. Drizzle the flatbreads with olive oil, season with salt and serve.

MAKE AHEAD The pesto can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature to serve. WINE Light, fruity California

Pinot Noir: 2014 Mark West.

MAKE AHEAD The celery root

puree and roasted cauliflower can be refrigerated separately overnight. Bring to room temperature to serve.

Roasted Cauliflower Flatbreads with Celery Root Puree Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Serves 4 to 6

WINE Lightly herbal Italian

white: 2014 Poggio al Tesoro Solosole Vermentino.

PUREE

One 1-lb. celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

Moroccan Flatbreads with Roasted Tomatoes

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Active 25 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4 to 6

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

CARROT PUREE

1 tsp. chopped thyme leaves

1½ lbs. carrots, cut into ½-inch pieces

Fine Himalayan pink salt TOPPINGS

6 garlic cloves

One 1½-lb. head of purple cauliflower, cored and cut into 1-inch florets

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1½ Tbsp. Madras curry powder

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 Tbsp. ground turmeric

Fine Himalayan pink salt

TOPPINGS

4 plum tomatoes, quartered lengthwise and cored 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 Tbsp. honey, preferably liquid raw (see Note, p. 88) 1 Tbsp. ground coriander Fine Himalayan pink salt Buckwheat Flatbreads (p. 94) or rye crackers, for serving Chopped shelled, salted and roasted pistachios, for garnish

1. Make the puree Preheat the oven to 400°. In a large bowl, toss the carrots with the garlic, olive oil, curry powder and turmeric and season with salt. Transfer to a large rimmed baking sheet and roast for about 30 minutes, until the carrots are very tender. Scrape into a food processor and let cool slightly. Puree the carrots, garlic and olive oil until smooth; season with salt. 2. Meanwhile, make the toppings On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the tomatoes with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the honey and coriander; season with salt. Roast for about 20 minutes, until the tomatoes are softened and lightly browned in spots. Let cool completely. 3. Spread the carrot puree on the buckwheat flatbreads and top with the roasted tomatoes. Garnish with pistachios, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt; serve. MAKE AHEAD The carrot puree and roasted tomatoes can be refrigerated separately overnight. Bring to room temperature to serve. WINE Crisp French rosé: 2015

Château d’Aqueria Tavel.

Fine Himalayan pink salt

F E B R UA R Y 2017

Rosemary-Ginger Sparkler page 85

Total 5 min; Makes 1 cocktail

“We try to live a balanced life,” says DuBoise. “So on the weekend, we want a cocktail!” This festive, wintry drink is a play on a classic Moscow Mule, but in place of the vodka and lime, Tingle and DuBoise mix in bourbon and a peppery homemade rosemary-ginger syrup. Ice 2 oz. bourbon ½ oz. fresh lemon juice ½ oz. Rosemary-Ginger Syrup (recipe follows) 2 oz. chilled ginger beer 1 small rosemary sprig, for garnish

Fill a rocks glass with ice. Add the bourbon, lemon juice and rosemary-ginger syrup; stir well. Top with ginger beer and stir once. Garnish with the rosemary sprig and serve immediately.

Rosemary-Ginger Syrup Active 10 min; Total 55 min Makes 1¼ cups 1 cup sugar 4 oz. fresh ginger, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick One 3-inch rosemary sprig

In a small saucepan, bring the sugar and 1 cup of water to a boil. Add the ginger and rosemary and return to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool completely, about 45 minutes. Strain the syrup through a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl; discard the solids. Refrigerate until chilled. MAKE AHEAD The syrup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

New York City Black Book

Chocolate-Cardamom Cookies Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 15 min plus overnight chilling Makes 2 dozen

Despite their healthy ingredients, these gluten- and dairyfree chocolate chip cookies are superdecadent. Almond flour gives them a nutty, crumbly texture and almond butter keeps them wonderfully moist.

RESTAURANTS

The Butcher’s Daughter “They serve a mean avocado toast, great organic egg dishes and fresh-pressed juices we love.” thebutchersdaughter.com. Double Zero “We’re crazy about chef Matthew Kenney’s new vegan pizza place. The housemade dough isn’t gluten-free, but it’s all organic.” matthewkenney cuisine.com.

4 cups almond flour 2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. ground cardamom 1 tsp. fine Himalayan pink salt

Peacefood Cafe “Great vegan comfort food. The chickpea fries are addictive.” peacefoodcafe.com.

2 cups roasted salted almond butter (18 oz.)

Souen “Their macrobiotic plates are totally delicious, and we’re obsessed with their corn bread.” souen.net.

1½ cups honey, preferably liquid raw (see Note)

SHOPPING & MARKETS

1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Eataly “For incredible produce, such as lobster mushrooms and organic greens. Whenever we go there, we always find something new.” eataly.com.

6 oz. dark chocolate, chopped

1. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, mix the almond flour with the baking powder, cardamom and salt at low speed until combined. At medium speed, beat in the almond butter, honey and vanilla until smooth. Add the chocolate chunks and beat until just incorporated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Chinatown herb shops “We love to wander around Chinatown looking for medicinal herbs, like ashwagandha root, which is considered beneficial for female health, and immune-boosting reishi mushrooms.” Kalustyan’s “We love this spice market, especially in winter when we add warming spices, like cumin, ginger and cayenne, to our food.” kalustyans.com. Carbon38 “The stylish activewear company was cofounded by our friend Caroline Gogolak and makes our go-to workout clothes.” carbon38.com.

2. Preheat the oven to 350° and arrange racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. Scoop ¼-cup mounds of the dough onto the prepared baking sheets and flatten into ½-inchthick disks. Bake the cookies for about 15 minutes, until they are lightly browned and firm around the edges; shift the baking sheets from front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking. Let cool completely before serving.

ABC Carpet & Home “This store curates beautiful things using values we appreciate, like buying from small, female-owned companies.” abchome.com. Credo “This shop is like Sephora, but you don’t have to read the labels.” credobeauty.com. CAP Beauty “Another great natural beauty store that also stocks supplements and herbs.” capbeauty.com. What Goes Around Comes Around “This shop has incredible vintage, like Chanel from the ’40s. I recently found a Freemason coat that’s 100 years old, complete with a gun pocket.” whatgoesaroundnyc.com. Ritual Vintage “Where we go to buy everyday, wearable vintage.” ritualvintage.com.

NOTE Raw, unprocessed honey can be found at most health food stores and on amazon.com.

EXERCISE Y7 “Cofounded by our friend Sarah Larson Levey, this is yoga with an infrared heating system, set to a hip-hop playlist.” y7-studio.com.

MAKE AHEAD The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Kula Yoga “Almost the opposite of Y7, the yoga here has more of a spiritual side but is still a good workout.” kulayoga.com.

continued on p. 93

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Chocolate-cardamom cookies, above right, fresh out of the oven. right: Whitney Tingle (right), cofounder of Sakara Life, chats with Moon Juiceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Amanda Chantal Bacon.

from p. 67

Winter Squash and Savoy Cabbage Gratin with Garlic Crema page 65 Active 30 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 6 to 8 10 garlic cloves ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing ¼ cup hazelnuts

Chickpeas and Kale in Spicy Pomodoro Sauce page 59 Active 20 min; Total 45 min Serves 4 ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced One 28-oz. can whole peeled Italian tomatoes, crushed by hand 1½ tsp. fennel seeds 1 tsp. crushed red pepper Kosher salt One 8-oz. bunch of Tuscan kale, stemmed and chopped Two 15-oz. cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained Torn basil and marjoram leaves, for garnish Finely grated Pecorino Romano, for serving

1. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over low heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until very fragrant but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, fennel seeds, crushed red pepper and a generous pinch of salt. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the sauce is thickened, about 25 minutes. 2. Stir the kale into the sauce and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the chickpeas and cook until heated through, about 3 minutes. Season with salt. Spoon into bowls and garnish with torn basil and marjoram leaves. Top with finely grated pecorino and serve hot. —Missy Robbins WINE Ripe, fruity Puglian red: 2015 Tormar-

esca Calafuria.

6. Turn the broiler to high. Transfer the baking sheet with the ramekins to the top rack of the oven and broil 6 inches from the heat source for about 2 minutes, until the squash is browned in spots. Sprinkle with the chopped hazelnuts and serve. —Matthew Accarrino NOTE The gratin can also be baked in a 3-quart shallow baking dish.

One 2-lb. butternut squash—peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded and cut into ½-inch-thick slices

MAKE AHEAD The assembled unbaked gratins can be refrigerated overnight; bring to room temperature before baking.

One 1-lb. Delicata squash—halved lengthwise, seeded and cut into ½-inch-thick slices

WINE Creamy California Chardonnay: 2014

Kosher salt and pepper

Steamed Grouper with Martini Relish and Sour Orange Sauce

1 lb. Savoy cabbage, cored and cut into 2-inch pieces (about 16 cups)

Sbragia Home Ranch.

page 61

2 cups low-fat milk

Active 35 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 4

2 Tbsp. cornstarch whisked with 1/4 cup water

SAUCE

4 oz. mild white cheddar or Fontina, shredded 3 Tbsp. chopped parsley 1½ Tbsp. chopped fresh sage

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. In a small saucepan or skillet, cook the garlic with ½ cup of the olive oil over moderately low heat until the garlic is softened, about 15 minutes. Transfer the garlic to a small bowl and mash to a paste. Reserve the oil for another use. 2. Spread the hazelnuts in a pie plate and toast for about 12 minutes, until fragrant. Transfer to a clean kitchen towel and let cool slightly, then rub together to remove the skins. Coarsely chop the hazelnuts. 3. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the squash with 2 tablespoons of olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer and bake for about 30 minutes, until softened and golden. Leave the oven on. 4. Meanwhile, lightly grease eight 8-ounce ramekins or gratin dishes with olive oil and arrange on a large rimmed baking sheet. In a large saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the cabbage, season with salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until wilted, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the cabbage to the prepared ramekins and top with the roasted squash.

2 cups fresh orange juice 1 Tbsp. honey ¼ tsp. finely grated lime zest plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice ½ tsp. white wine vinegar Kosher salt and pepper RELISH 1/3

cup pitted Picholine olives, quartered lengthwise

2 jarred piquillo peppers—patted dry, seeded and finely chopped 1 Tbsp. minced shallot ½ jalapeño, seeded and minced 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 2 Tbsp. finely chopped dill 1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley Kosher salt and pepper FISH

Four 6-oz. skinless grouper fillets Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing Kosher salt and pepper 8 parsley sprigs 8 dill sprigs 2 Tbsp. dry white wine

5. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk with the mashed garlic over moderate heat until it just comes to a boil. Add the cornstarch slurry, whisking until thickened, about 1 minute. Whisk in the cheese and herbs and season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce evenly into the ramekins. Bake in the center of the oven for about 30 minutes, until bubbling.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1. Make the sauce In a small saucepan, boil the orange juice over moderately high heat until reduced to ½ cup, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool, then stir in the honey, lime zest, lime juice and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. 2. Make the relish In a small bowl, mix everything except the dill, parsley, salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes, then fold in the dill and parsley. Season the relish with salt and pepper. 3. Meanwhile, make the fish Preheat the oven to 450°. Lay four 15-inch-long sheets of parchment paper on a work surface. Brush the fish fillets with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Put a fillet in the center of each sheet of parchment and top with 2 sprigs each of the parsley and dill. Drizzle on ½ tablespoon of the wine. Fold the parchment over the fish, then fold the edge over itself in small pleats to seal. 4. Transfer the papillotes to a large baking sheet. Bake about 7 minutes, until puffed. Snip the parchment open with scissors and serve the fish with the sour orange sauce and martini relish. —Bobby Flay SERVE WITH Herbed whole-wheat

couscous. WINE Grapefruity Chilean Sauvignon Blanc:

2016 Matetic EQ.

Milk Chocolate–Peanut Custards page 66 Active 15 min; Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4 ½ cup low-fat chocolate milk 1/3

cup heavy cream

2/3

cup roasted unsalted peanuts

3 oz. silken tofu 6 1/2 oz. milk chocolate, chopped 1 Tbsp. light agave or corn syrup ¼ tsp. kosher salt Fat-free Greek-style vanilla yogurt, chocolate granola, unsweetened cocoa powder and coarse sea salt, for serving

1. In a small saucepan, combine the chocolate milk, cream and peanuts and cook over moderately low heat until it just comes to a boil. Transfer to a blender. Add the tofu, milk chocolate, agave syrup and kosher salt and blend at high speed until smooth, about 2 minutes (the mixture will be slightly grainy). Divide the custard into four 8-ounce ramekins or small dessert bowls. Refrigerate until set, 1 to 2 hours.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

2. Serve the custards topped with vanilla yogurt, granola, a dusting of cocoa powder and a pinch of coarse sea salt. —MA MAKE AHEAD The custard can be refrigerated overnight.

Quinoa Meatballs with Tomato Sauce and Tuscan Kale Active 1 hr 15 min; Total 1 hr 45 min Serves 6 PILAF

1½ Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ½ onion, finely chopped 1 cup quinoa, rinsed and drained 2 Tbsp. dry white wine 1 tsp. kosher salt 2 Tbsp. each finely chopped basil, parsley, scallion and dill QUINOA MEATBALLS

Baking spray 2 large eggs ½ Tbsp. whole milk ½ Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. fine dried breadcrumbs 1 cup finely grated ParmigianoReggiano, plus more for garnish ¼ cup fine semolina 2 tsp. onion powder 1 tsp. garlic powder ½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. pepper TOMATO SAUCE

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ½ onion, finely chopped 5 garlic cloves, minced ¾ cup dry white wine One 28-oz. can whole tomatoes in juice (preferably San Marzano), tomatoes chopped and juices reserved

and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat until the quinoa is tender and the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Spread the quinoa onto a large rimmed baking sheet to cool, then transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the herbs. Set aside 1 cup of the quinoa pilaf. 2. Make the quinoa meatballs Preheat the oven to 375°. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil and coat with baking spray. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the milk, olive oil and 2/3 cup of water. Add the reserved 1 cup of quinoa pilaf along with the breadcrumbs, the 1 cup of Parmigiano, the semolina, onion powder, garlic powder, salt and pepper and mix well. Form the mixture into twenty-six 1½-inch meatballs, using about 1 tablespoon of the mixture for each. Transfer to the baking sheet. Bake the meatballs for 10 to 12 minutes, until browned on the bottoms, then turn and bake for 10 to 12 minutes longer, until browned all over. 3. Make the tomato sauce Meanwhile, in a medium enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the olive oil over moderate heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the wine and tomato juices and cook until the liquid is reduced by one-third, about 8 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes, oregano and crushed red pepper and simmer over moderately low heat for 20 minutes. Stir in the 3 tablespoons of chopped basil and season with salt and black pepper. Add the kale, cover and cook over moderately low heat until it begins to wilt, about 5 minutes. Add the meatballs to the casserole and simmer until the kale is tender and the meatballs are heated through, 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Spoon the quinoa pilaf into shallow bowls and top with the meatballs and sauce. Garnish with chopped basil and grated Parmigiano and serve. —MA WINE Medium-bodied, herbal Chianti: 2014

Badia a Coltibuono Cetamura. continued on p. 92

Pinch each of dried oregano and crushed red pepper 3 Tbsp. chopped basil, plus more for garnish Kosher salt and black pepper 1 small bunch of Tuscan kale (8 oz.), stemmed and chopped 1. Make the pilaf In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the quinoa and cook, stirring, until toasted, about 2 minutes. Add 2 cups of water along with the wine and salt

F E B R UA R Y 2017

THE NEW HEALTHY from p. 91

Smoky Chicken Cutlets with Herb-Roasted Sweet Potatoes Active 30 min; Total 45 min plus 2 hr marinating; Serves 4

George Mendes loves serving his juicy chicken with sweet potatoes, but he sometimes makes it with brussels sprouts. He likes to pluck the leaves off the sprouts and sauté them in olive oil, as if they were mini cabbage leaves. They become crispy and so much fun to eat. ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup dry white wine, preferably Vinho Verde ½ small onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4 parsley sprigs 1 Tbsp. sweet smoked paprika Kosher salt and pepper

4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves (1 1/2 to 2 lbs.), butterflied and pounded ¼ inch thick 2 large sweet potatoes (3 lbs.), peeled and cut into ½-inch dice 1 rosemary sprig 1 thyme sprig 1 bay leaf

1. In a large resealable plastic bag, combine ½ cup of the olive oil with ¼ cup of the wine. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, paprika, 1 teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Put the chicken in the bag with the marinade and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

olive oil over moderately high heat. Cook the chicken in 2 batches, turning once, until golden and just cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to plates, tent with foil and keep warm. 4. Add the remaining ¼ cup of wine to the skillet and boil over moderately high heat until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved marinade, bring to a boil and cook until reduced by half, 2 minutes. Transfer the sweet potatoes to the plates with the chicken. Spoon the sauce over the chicken and serve. WINE Oak-toasty Spanish Rioja: 2012 Vivanco Crianza.

2. Preheat the oven to 350°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the sweet potatoes with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the rosemary, thyme and bay leaf; season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer. Roast for about 30 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and golden. Discard the herb sprigs and bay leaf. 3. Meanwhile, remove the chicken from the marinade. Strain the marinade over a sieve into a bowl; discard the solids. In a large skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of

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p r o m ot i o n

from p. 88

Warm Lentil and Root Vegetable Salad with Coconut Tzatziki page 82

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Serves 4 to 6 LENTILS

1 cup French green lentils, picked over Fine Himalayan pink salt and pepper 1½ lbs. medium multicolored carrots, cut on a bias into 2-inch pieces 1½ lbs. medium parsnips, halved lengthwise and cut into 2-inch pieces 2¼ tsp. ground cumin 2¼ tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. ancho chile powder ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1/3

cup fresh lemon juice

¾ cup chopped mint, plus torn leaves for garnish ¾ cup chopped cilantro, plus leaves for garnish TZATZIKI

1 cup coconut milk yogurt (see Note) ¼ cup finely diced seeded cucumber 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. finely chopped dill 1 tsp. finely chopped chives 1 garlic clove, minced Fine Himalayan pink salt and pepper

1. Make the lentils In a large saucepan, cover the lentils with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat until just tender, 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, add a generous pinch of salt and let stand for 5 minutes; drain. Spread the lentils on a rimmed baking sheet and let cool slightly. continued on p. 94

FWx.COM F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

ALL WELL & GOOD from p. 93 lentil and root vegetable salad

continued

2. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the carrots and parsnips with the cumin, coriander, chile powder and ¼ cup of the olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper. Roast the vegetables until tender and browned in spots, 20 to 25 minutes. 3. In a large bowl, toss the lentils with the warm roasted vegetables, the lemon juice and the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Fold in the chopped mint and cilantro and season the salad with salt and pepper. Transfer to a platter and garnish with mint and cilantro leaves. 4. Make the tzatziki In a small bowl, whisk all of the ingredients together and season with salt and pepper. Serve alongside the warm lentil salad. —Sakara Life SERVE WITH Quinoa Pilaf with Dried

Apricots (recipe follows). NOTE Coconut milk yogurt is dairy-free and can be found in the refrigerated section of most grocery stores.

Quinoa Pilaf with Dried Apricots page 82

Active 15 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 4 to 6

Kale–and–Brussels Sprout Caesar Salad page 85

Total 1 hr; Serves 8

Instead of Parmesan cheese, Tingle and DuBoise toss their vegan Caesar salad with a savory, nutty crumble of almonds, hemp seeds and nutritional yeast. Sprinkle leftover crumble on roasted vegetables, fried eggs or a grain bowl. CRUMBLE

½ cup raw almonds ¼ cup hulled hemp seeds 2 Tbsp. nutritional yeast (see Note) 2 tsp. sweet paprika Fine Himalayan pink salt DRESSING

4. In a large bowl, toss the brussels sprouts with the kale, half of the dressing and 2 tablespoons of the crumble. Serve with lemon wedges, passing the remaining dressing and crumble at the table. NOTE Nutritional yeast is a nutty-tasting vegan seasoning. Dulse is a red seaweed that has a faint bacon-like flavor when dried. Both ingredients can be found at Whole Foods and on amazon.com. MAKE AHEAD The crumble can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks and the dressing can be refrigerated overnight.

Buckwheat Flatbreads page 86

Active 30 min; Total 2 hr 45 min plus cooling; Makes 32 small flatbreads 2/3

½ small Hass avocado, pitted and peeled 1 small garlic clove

cup lukewarm water

1 Tbsp. coconut sugar ¾ tsp. active dry yeast

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1½ tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2/3

1½ Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. nutritional yeast

cup brown rice flour (see Note)

½ cup buckwheat flour (see Note) 2 Tbsp. tapioca starch (see Note)

1½ tsp. hulled hemp seeds

2 Tbsp. finely chopped walnuts

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1½ tsp. chia seeds

1 Tbsp. flaxseeds

1 medium onion, finely chopped

½ tsp. dulse granules (see Note)

Fine Himalayan pink salt 1½ cups quinoa 1/3

cup dried apricots, finely chopped

4 green cardamom pods, cracked 4 saffron threads

Fine Himalayan pink salt and pepper SALAD

2 lbs. brussels sprouts, trimmed and thinly sliced 1/3

cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ tsp. ground turmeric

Fine Himalayan pink salt and pepper

1/3

One 5-oz. container baby kale

cup roasted salted shelled pistachios, chopped

In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and just starting to brown, about 7 minutes. Add the quinoa, apricots, cardamom, saffron and turmeric and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add 3 cups of water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat until the water is absorbed and the quinoa is tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let steam covered for 20 minutes, then discard the cardamom pods and fluff the quinoa with a fork. Fold in the pistachios and season with salt; serve. —Sakara Life MAKE AHEAD The quinoa pilaf can be refrigerated overnight. Serve warm or at room temperature.

F E B R UA R Y 2017

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Make the crumble In a food processor, pulse all of the ingredients until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Transfer the crumble to a small bowl and season with salt. Wipe out the food processor. 2. Make the dressing In the food processor, puree all of the ingredients with 2 tablespoons of water until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Make the salad Preheat the oven to 450°. In a large bowl, toss the brussels sprouts with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper; spread on 2 large rimmed baking sheets. Roast the sprouts, rotating the pans from top to bottom halfway through baking, until crisp-tender and lightly browned in spots, about 10 minutes. Let cool slightly.

½ tsp. fine Himalayan pink salt ¼ tsp. baking powder

1. In a small bowl, whisk the lukewarm water with the coconut sugar, yeast and the 1½ teaspoons of olive oil. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. 2. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix both flours with the tapioca starch, walnuts, flaxseeds, salt and baking powder. Add the wet ingredients and mix on low speed until just combined. Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and let stand at room temperature for 2 hours. 3. Preheat the oven to 375°. Grease a large sheet of parchment paper with olive oil. Scrape the dough onto the parchment and, using a generously greased rolling pin, roll out the dough to a 12-by-16½-inch rectangle, 1/16 inch thick. Slide the parchment onto a large rimmed baking sheet and cut the dough into 2-by-3-inch rectangles. You will have about 32 pieces. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the flatbreads are set and starting to crisp around the edges. Let cool. NOTE Brown rice flour, buckwheat flour and tapioca starch can be found at Whole Foods and on amazon.com. MAKE AHEAD The flatbreads can be stored at room temperature for up to 5 days.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

MOST WANTED from p. 96

Garlicky Littleneck Clams with Fregola PAGE 96

Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 30 min Serves 4 to 6

A sweet, superversatile garlic puree is the star of this satisfying dish. In addition to swirling it into the silky broth, Michael Psilakis spreads the leftovers on toast in place of butter or folds it into Greek yogurt for a quick dip. GARLIC PUREE

3 cups garlic cloves (about 7 heads of garlic) 8 sprigs fresh thyme 1 fresh bay leaf 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1½ tsp. black peppercorns 1¼ cups canola oil 1¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil CLAMS 2/3

cup dried fregola

2 Tbsp. canola oil 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 5½ dozen medium littleneck clams, scrubbed 1 cup dry white wine 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 scallions, thinly sliced ¼ cup chopped parsley leaves, plus more for garnish ¼ cup chopped dill, plus small sprigs for garnish

2. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic cloves to a mini food processor and puree until smooth. You will have about 1½ cups of garlic puree. Strain the oil from the casserole into a 1-quart heatproof jar and discard the aromatics. Let the oil cool completely, then refrigerate; reserve for another use. 3. Make the clams In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the fregola until al dente, 10 to 12 minutes; drain well. 4. Meanwhile, in a large pot, heat the oil. Add the sliced garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the clams, wine and ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the garlic puree and stir to coat the clams. Cover and cook over moderately high heat, shaking the pot occasionally, until the clams open, 5 to 7 minutes. As they open, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a serving bowl; discard any that do not open. 5. Add the fregola, lemon juice, scallions, chopped herbs and more garlic puree, if desired, to the broth; season with salt and pepper. Pour the garlic broth over the clams and garnish with chopped parsley and dill sprigs. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and crusty bread. MAKE AHEAD The garlic puree can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks or frozen for up to 1 month. WINE Minerally Greek white: 2015

Argyros Estate Assyrtiko.

2 tsp. finely chopped mint

AVAILABLE WHEREVER BOOKS ARE SOLD

“Ryan’s recipes are always accessible, affordable, and super tasty.” —RACHAEL RAY

Kosher salt and pepper Lemon wedges and crusty bread, for serving

“For any busy or novice cook, Ryan takes away all the excuses for why you can’t make a delicious meal.”

1. Make the garlic puree Preheat the oven to 300°. In a medium enameled cast-iron casserole, combine all of the ingredients. Cover and braise in the oven until the garlic is very tender, about 1 hour; let cool to room temperature.

—CARLA HALL

Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24-hour service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-333-6569 (813-979-6625 for international subscribers) or write to Food & Wine at P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662. Food & Wine (ISSN-0741-9015). February 2017, Vol. 40, No. 2. Published monthly by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. FOOD & WINE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. 40036840 (GST# 129480364RT). U.S. and Canada Subscribers: Subscriptions: 12 issues, $37; Canada, $49. If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Wine, PO Box 4226, Toronto, ON M5W 5N7. Postmaster: Send change of address to Food & Wine, P.O. Box 62665, Tampa, FL 33662-6658. Food & Wine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs or other works. All rights in letters sent to Food & Wine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to unrestricted right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents Copyright ©2017 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Chef Ryan Scott’s shortcut solutions to master quick, home cooked meals.

“Ryan is one of the most creative, knowledgeable and humorous chefs I know.” —SUNNY ANDERSON

MOST WANTED

Greek Revival “SEAFOOD IS SUCH A BIG PART OF OUR FOOD CULTURE,” says Greek-American chef Michael Psilakis of New York’s MP Taverna. “Most people use a tremendous amount of butter with it, but there are better-for-you ways to get that full flavor.” One standout from his new cookbook, Live to Eat: Cooking the Mediterranean Way (Little, Brown), is the creamy garlic puree, which adds body and richness to these clams with fregola and herbs (p. 95). (It’s just as genius stirred into soup, risotto or anything else.) “While you’re eating it, you think, How can this be healthy?” —JULIA HEFFELFINGER F E B R UA R Y 2017

HUNGRY FOR MORE?

Psilakis shares his healthy recipes at foodandwine.com/ michaelpsilakis. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph: con poulos; food stylist: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers. bowl by kh würtz from monc xiii; small plate by malinda reich

RECIPE REQUEST

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