®
European Niche
SCOTT GALLOWAY NYU Stern
Fashion n ov e m b e r 1 7 , 2 0 11
A Think Tank for DIGITAL INNOVATION
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion
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IN T R O D U C T I O N
Absent While digital continues to dominate, many of Europe’s niche fashion brands remain absent online. No brand in the inaugural European Niche Fashion Index nabbed Genius status—an L2 Digital IQ Index® first—and a staggering 70 percent of brands are characterized as Challenged or Feeble. One-third of brands are still not selling online, and less than half are participating in paid search. Adoption and community size on popular social media platforms—Facebook, YouTube, and Twitter—lag global fashion players.
Iconic vs. Irrelevant
Digital IQ = Shareholder Value Our thesis is that digital competence is inextrica-
UK $91.5 B
able metric. This study attempts to quantify the
as help brands achieve greater return on incre-
Facebook Adoption (Percent of Internet Users 2010)2
mental investment. Similar to the medium we are assessing, our methodology is dynamic, and we
ings. You can reach me at scott@stern.nyu.edu.
channels. Digital provides a measureable and
Regards,
82%
with the end consumer via e-commerce and Scott Galloway
73%
78%
58%
69%
Smartphone Penetration (Approximate of 2010 rates)3
the playing field and establish direct relationships
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
$12.3 B
agnose digital strengths and weaknesses as well
across traditional print and brick-and-mortar
brands become iconic versus irrelevant.
SPAIN
$33.7 B $9.4 B
brands. Our aim is to provide a robust tool to di-
improve our methodology, investigation, and find-
future cost, may be the litmus test for which niche
GERMANY
E-Commerce (2010)1
$25.4 B
digital competence of 46 European niche fashion
hope you will reach out to us with comments that
digital platforms, at what is likely a fraction of the
ITALY
and developing this competence is an action-
capital to compete toe-to-toe with larger peers
social media platforms. Investing in emerging
FRANCE
bly linked to shareholder value. Key to managing
Many of the brands in this Index do not have the
scalable opportunity for smaller brands to level
D i g i tal i n e u r o p e
34%
25%
35%
24%
38%
Founder, L2 Clinical Professor of Marketing, NYU Stern 1. “Western European Ecommerce Market Continues Strong Growth,” eMarketer, August 15, 2011. 2. “2010 Europe Digital Year in Review,” ComScore, February 24, 2011. 3. “Mobile Year in Review 2010,” ComScore, February 14, 2011.
2
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion
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A B O U T T HE R A NKIN G S D i g i tal I Q Class e s
ME T H O D O LO G Y
Site: 40%
IQ Range
Effectiveness of brand site
Functionality & Content: 75%
BRAND TRANSLATION: 25%
• Site Technology
• Site Aesthetics
• Navigation, Product & Site Search
• Messaging & Imagery
140+
IQ Class
GENIUS Digital competence is a point of differentiation for these brands. Site content is searchable, shareable, and mobile-optimized. Social media efforts complement broader digital strategy.
• Social Media Integration • Customer Service & Store Locator • Product Page • Checkout • Account • International Customization: Language, Currency, Consistency, Shipping
110–139
GIFTED Brands are experimenting and innovating across site, mobile, and social platforms. Digital presence is consistent with brand image and larger marketing efforts.
Digital Marketing: 30% Search, display, and email marketing efforts • Search: Traffic, SEM, SEO, Web Authority • Advertising & Innovation: Display, Retargeting, Recent Brand Initiatives, Presence on Tumblr • Blog & Other User-Generated Content: Mentions, Sentiment • Email: Frequency, Content, Social Media Integration, Tactics
90–109
Digital presence is functional yet predictable. Efforts are often siloed across platforms.
Social Media: 15% Brand presence, community size, content, and engagement on major social media platforms • Facebook: Likes, Growth, Tabs and Applications, Responsiveness, Engagement • Twitter: Followers, Growth, Tweet Frequency, Online Voice
70–89
Mobile: 15% • Mobile Site: Compatibility, Functionality, Transaction Capability • iOS Applications (iPhone & iPad): Availability, Popularity, Functionality, iPad Differentiation • Other Platforms (Android, Blackberry): Availability, Popularity, Functionality
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
CHALLENGED Limited or inconsistent adoption of mobile and social media platforms. Site lacks inspiration and utility.
• YouTube: Views, Number of Uploads, Subscriber Growth, Viral Videos
Compatibility, optimization, and marketing on smartphones and other mobile devices
AVERAGE
<70
FEEBLE Investment does not match opportunity.
3
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D I G I T A L I Q R A NKIN G
headquarters: UK
Spain
France
Germany
Italy
Rank
Brand
Headquarters
1
Agent Provocateur
UK
139 Gifted
Racy assets and online voice deliver across channels; strongest mobile presence in the study
2
Ted Baker
UK
128 Gifted
Best-in-class Facebook page delivers with contests and user-generated content
3
Stella McCartney
UK
124 Gifted
Fastest-growing Twitter community sets social media style standards
4
Superdry
UK
118 Gifted
Regional Facebook strategy pays dividends
5
Moncler
Italy
115 Gifted
Site relaunch, Grand Central Station flash mob, and social media push impress
6
Moschino
Italy
114 Gifted
Chic digital experience with iPad optimization
7
Lanvin
France
113 Gifted
Viral video hit led models, bloggers, and customers dancing to its e-commerce site
8
Emilio Pucci
Italy
112 Gifted
Strong commerce-oriented site and mobile experience
9
Jean Paul Gaultier
France
111 Gifted
Namesake lends star power to garner one of the largest Twitter followings
10
La Perla
Italy
110 Gifted
A mobile presence would lift brand IQ
11
Thomas Pink
UK
109 Average
Tailored site navigation reveals digital attention to detail
12
Jil Sander
Germany
104 Average
Focus should be on establishing a mobile presence, not on manufacturing a smartphone
13
Vivienne Westwood
UK
99 Average
Facebook leader with largest fan base and forthcoming F-commerce
14
Alberta Ferretti
Italy
95 Average
Growing social media voice and e-commerce set foundation
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
Digital IQ Class
Comments
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European Niche Fashion
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D I G I T A L I Q R A NKIN G
headquarters: UK
Spain
France
Germany
Italy
Rank
Brand
Headquarters
15
Furla
Italy
89 Challenged
Robust regional site customization
15
Trussardi
Italy
89 Challenged
Low email frequency hinders site traffic growth
17
Marni
Italy
88 Challenged
Commerce-oriented site extends to mobile; burgeoning social voice could lift brand
18
Aubade
France
87 Challenged
“French Art of Loving” campaign created digital buzz, but product sharing would increase reach
19
Gieves & Hawkes
UK
84 Challenged
Digital marketing efforts would bolster streamlined e-commerce site
20
Costume National
Italy
79 Challenged
Static digital footprint does not match brand’s image
20
Missoni
Italy
79 Challenged
Renewed attention to brand diluted by lack of e-commerce
20
Sergio Rossi
Italy
79 Challenged
Social media is isolated from site
23
Lancel
France
77 Challenged
Brand cultivates a tribe of product-centric Facebook fans
25
Escada
Germany
75 Challenged
No avenue for site monetization without e-commerce
24
Kenzo
France
76 Challenged
Stylish site relaunch weaves a stronger brand identity, but removing e-commerce is a poor choice
26
John Lobb
UK
72 Challenged
Rich branded content would get greater reach through social media
27
Loro Piana
Italy
71 Challenged
Social media would support relaunch of the brand’s stunning e-commerce site
28
Adolfo Dominguez
Spain
69 Feeble
Foundation in place, but requires stronger emphasis on site functionality than aesthetics
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
Digital IQ Class
Comments
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D I G I T A L I Q R A NKIN G
headquarters: UK
Spain
France
Germany
Italy
Rank
Brand
Headquarters
29
Aquascutum
UK
68 Feeble
Confusing site strategy leads to geographic disconnect
29
Blumarine
Italy
68 Feeble
Brand makes strides with shareable lookbook despite lack of e-commerce
31
Balmain
France
67 Feeble
Missing Facebook page hinders IQ
32
Corneliani
Italy
65 Feeble
Recently released iPhone app moving in right direction, but needs to upgrade site
33
Slowear
Italy
64 Feeble
Trying to compensate for lack of e-commerce through iOS apps and branded content
34
Céline
France
60 Feeble
No social media properties to broadcast runway acclaim
35
Bruno Magli
Italy
59 Feeble
Digital voice muffled by protected tweets
36
Brunello Cucinelli
Italy
57 Feeble
Strong aesthetics, flat functionality
36
Nina Ricci
France
57 Feeble
Flash-heavy site with limited regional customization
38
Eres
France
55 Feeble
E-commerce site only available in French
39
Berluti
France
54 Feeble
Strong content is not shareable
39
Sonia Rykiel
France
54 Feeble
Faulty product links disrupt e-commerce offering
41
Fratelli Rossetti
Italy
47 Feeble
Product sharing, but not much else
42
Brioni
Italy
46 Feeble
Brand lags without social media and mobile presence
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
Digital IQ Class
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D I G I T A L I Q R A NKIN G
headquarters: UK
Spain
France
Germany
Italy
Rank
Brand
Headquarters
43
Etro
Italy
44 Feeble
Poor site navigation
43
Turnbull & Asser
UK
44 Feeble
Digital presence is a relic
45
Pollini
Italy
37 Feeble
No email marketing or search optimization makes site difficult to find
46
Gianfranco FerrÉ
Italy
29 Feeble
Absent
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
Digital IQ Class
Comments
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KEY F IN D IN G S
D I G I TA L I Q D I S T RIB U T I O N % of Brands per Digital IQ Class
Absence of Genius GENIUS
For the first time in a Digital IQ Index®, we did not register a single Genius brand. The ranking distribution reveals
0%
a bifurcation between Gifted brands and those that are Challenged and Feeble, suggesting a subset of niche European
Digital IQ
>140
GIFTED
brands have made competent, yet still undifferentiated forays
Agent Provocateur
on digital platforms while many have largely ignored digital altogether.
Moschino
Ted Baker
Lanvin
Stella McCartney
Emilio Pucci
Superdry Jean Paul Gaultier
Adoption of digital platforms among European niche fashion
Moncler
brands is limited compared to the 49 brands in this year’s Digital
Digital IQ
110–139
22%
La Perla
IQ Index®: Fashion—European brands trail on every platform.
AVERAGE
Unlike in the U.S., where small, nimble brands such as Genius Kate Spade and Gifted Tory Burch and Diane von Furstenberg
9%
have made impressive strides growing their digital footprint and
Thomas Pink Digital IQ
Jil Sander
90–109
Vivienne Westwood Alberta Ferretti
are punching above their weight class, niche European brands lag behind their larger peers. D i g i tal ado p t i o n a c r oss p latfo r m s % of European Niche Fashion vs. Global Fashion Brands
94% 78%
84%
78% 65%
Missoni
Trussardi
Sergio Rossi
Marni
Lancel
Aubade
Escada
Gieves & Hawkes
Kenzo
Costume National
92%
67%
Furla
CHALLENGED Digital IQ
70–89
28%
John Lobb Loro Piana
78%
Adolfo Dominguez Eres
61%
FEEBLE
48% 33% 35%
35% 17%
Digital IQ Index®: European Niche Fashion Digital IQ Index®: Fashion Facebook
E-commerce
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
YouTube
Mobile (Site & App)
41%
Digital IQ
<70
Aquascutum
Berluti
Blumarine
Sonia Rykiel
Balmain
Fratelli Rossetti
Corneliani
Brioni
Slowear
Etro
Bruno Magli
Turnbull & Asser
Céline
Pollini
Brunello Cucinelli
Gianfranco Ferré
Nina Ricci
Blogs
8
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KEY F IN D IN G S d i g i tal i q by c ou n t r y of o r i g i n
Island of Innovation
(*Other = Germany and Spain) 99
Brands headquartered in the UK register higher Digital IQs than those from other countries. Replicating the findings of the Digital IQ Index®: Fashion, Italy and France continue to lag behind their British peers by a considerable margin. Culture, access to digital talent, and vendors all contribute. The top four brands, including Digital IQ leader Agent Provocateur, call the UK home. Furthermore, 90 percent of UK-origin brands boast e-commerce capability.
83 73
Italy (n=22)
France (n=11)
0
Shaky Digital Foundation Through 2014, annual Western European e-commerce growth is expected to reach 11 percent.4 Despite this trajectory, one-third of the brands in this Index do not support e-commerce. Brands without e-commerce averaged a Digital IQ score 35 points lower than those selling online. Additionally, sites with e-commerce recorded more than 1.6 more page views, 110 percent higher three-month traffic growth, and an almost four percent lower bounce rate.
74
UK (n=10)
Other* (n=3)
S i t e fu n c t i o n al i t y % of Sites With Links to the Following (October 2011)
91%
with without
76% 67%
65% 57%
Before Shareable, Findable
50%
A number of European niche fashion brands lack basic site features. Only half of the brands offer site search, while 43 percent of sites are not equipped with basic product filtering. The connection to brick-and-mortar retail is limited with functionality and navigability lacking; two-thirds of the brand sites did not map stores or post hours, and almost 80 percent did not list store services.
Store Locator
Video
9%
Customer Service (Email)
Email Opt-In
33%
35%
Product Filtering
Site Search
24%
43% 4. “Forrester Forecast: Online Retail Sales Will Grow To $250 Billion By 2014,” Erick Schonfeld, TechCrunch, March 8, 2010.
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
50%
9
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KEY F IN D IN G S O n e - m o n t h t r aff i c g r o w t h
Product Seclusion Brands are not only making their products hard to find, but also difficult to share. Only a third of the brands offer product tweeting, and less than 30 percent allow sharing via email. Escada, Lancel, and Pollini are compensating for their lack of e-commerce functionality by experimenting with social media-driven product sharing for their lookbooks and campaign materials. Shareability drives incremental traffic—product pages with the Facebook “like” button saw a 34 percent increase in one-month site traffic growth versus only nine percent for sites without the “like” button. Additionally, brands that included shareable content—notably, video sharing and blogs—also saw an almost 100 percent increase in traffic growth versus those without.
In Search of Search European niche fashion brands aren’t managing one of their most important storefronts: Google. This digital disconnect shows no signs of improving, as only 43 percent of brands purchase their own brand terms on Google. Ted Baker and Thomas Pink stand out among that minority of brands. They not only optimize their search with product and geolocal information, but also with paid search ads.
By Site Feature (Alexa, October 2011)
34%
without 24%
22%
20%
18%
13% 9%
Product Facebook “like”
12%
10%
Video Sharing
8%
Blogs
Links to Social Media
Product Tweets
googl e pa i d s e a r c h r e sults : b r a n d k e y w o r d % in Top Three Paid Ads (October 2011)
67%
43%
It is noteworthy that 28 percent saw the presence of a thirdparty e-commerce provider within their “above-the-fold” organic Google search results, while 67 percent found these e-tailers appear within their top three paid search results. Even more alarming, discount sites such as eBay and Vente-Privée were purchasing against one-third of brands.
33%
9%
E-Tailer © L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
with
Brand Site
Discount Site
Department Store
7%
Media
10
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KEY F IN D IN G S Empty Inboxes Number of Emails, Average Across All Markets (October 2011)
Superdry
2.17 2.00
Moncler
1.48
La Perla
1.35
Agent Provocateur
1.29
Marni
1.13
Emilio Pucci
0.86
Moschino
0.75
Sergio Rossi
0.60
Slowear
5 2.
0 2.
1.
5 0.
0 0.
0
0.53
Alberta Ferretti
5
Email sophistication is also limited, as just 30 percent provide links to social media. Eight percent of emails were shareable via social media, and 41 percent optimized the email for viewing on a mobile device. Mobile optimization is an opportunity, as onequarter of consumers in the UK, Italy, and Spain read emails on their mobile devices daily.6
T o p 1 0 : w e e k ly e m a i l f r e qu e n c y
1.
Although more than 70 percent of Western European consumers sign up for email newsletters,5 only 65 percent of the brands in the Index offer email opt-in, and averaged only 0.29 emails per week. While more is not necessarily better, email marketing remains the most effective call-to-action vehicle for e-commerce sales. Superdry and Moncler were the only brands with robust email marketing programs, sending 2.17 and 2.0 emails per week respectively.
5. “The European Social Media and Email Marketing Study—A 6 Country Study about the Digital Dialogue between Facebook, Twitter and Email (Part 2) (European Summary Consumer Results),” Volker Wiewer and Rolf Anweiler, eCircle, December 2010. 6.
Ibid.
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
11
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KEY F IN D IN G S Socially Awkward Adoption of the big three social media platforms lags in the European niche fashion community. The average Facebook fan page of European niche fashion brands were 20 times smaller than their Digital IQ Index®: Fashion peers. Additionally, tab functionality and programming was rudimentary: only 23 percent of pages had a custom landing page, and just five percent host Facebook applications. Vivienne Westwood is on a solid trajectory for continued growth through expanding and managing this study’s largest Facebook community. Its forthcoming experimentation with F-commerce should also help the brand. Fifty-five percent of Twitter accounts retweet content, 61 percent reply to tweets and 55 percent link to the brand’s other social media properties. For example, @StellaMcCartney’s tweet stream is packed with tweets complimenting and following up with customers. Additionally, Index leaders Agent Provocateur and Furla have established personas on Twitter that successfully deliver the personality of the brand in 140 characters or less.
Vivienne Westwood is launching F-commerce soon
@StellaMcCartney creates a dialogue with its Twitter followers
European niche fashion brands’ YouTube adoption is less sophisticated than on any other social platform. Brands primarily used YouTube to showcase fashion show coverage, behind-thescenes commentary, and campaign videos. When available, much of this content simply replicates what can be found on the brands’ sites.
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
12
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KEY F IN D IN G S
to p 1 0 : fa c e b oo k “ l i k e s ”
to p 1 0 : fa c e b oo k fa n pag e g r o w t h
(October 2011)
Excluding Pages With < 2000 Fans (September–October 2011)
120,000
Stella McCartney
Missoni
111,894
Jean Paul Gaultier
Lancel
66,348
Aubade Paris
Corneliani
60,406
Kenzo
20%
Superdry Spain
Furla
19% 16% 13% 12%
Sergio Rossi
10%
00 0, 40
00 0, 30
00 0, 20
0 00 0, 10
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
30 %
56,071
0%
Moschino
0
10%
0
Etro
0
56,100
0
Lancel
15 0%
139,468
Agent Provocateur
22%
Fratelli Rossetti
0%
173,305
Lanvin
74%
Blumarine
12
276,705
60 %
Superdry
124%
Superdry USA
90 %
353,162
Vivienne Westwood
13
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KEY F IN D IN G S
b e st i n t w e e t: to p 1 0 t w i tt e r follo w e r s
to p 1 0 : fast e st- g r o w i n g t w i tt e r a c c ou n ts
(October 2011)
(September–October 2011)
13,530
@FollowWestwood
2.5%
@FollowWestwood
12,349
@Superdry
3.7%
@LANVINofficial
12,723
@balmainparis
4.5%
@EmilioPucci
2.4%
@Superdry
@kenzo_paris
8,149
@Moschinofficial
1.7%
@ted_baker
8,018
@balmainparis
1.7%
@MissoniUSA
1.6%
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
0%
00 ,0
1.4%
20
00 ,0 15
,0
00
@ted_baker
10
00
0
5,121
5,
0
@LaPerlaLingerie
2%
6,205
@sergiorossi
8%
17,344
@EmilioPucci
6.1%
@JPGaultier
6%
17,798
@JPGaultier
23.4%
@StellaMcCartney
4%
194,554
@StellaMcCartney
14
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KEY F IN D IN G S Sex Sells T O P 1 0 : B r a n ds YouTube Brand Channel Upload Views (October 2011)
1,287,708
Agent Provocateur
457,434
Lanvin
249,215
Vivienne Westwood
146,513
Costume National
Stella McCartney
138,359
Turnbull & Asser
131,785
Jil Sander
34,617
Corneliani
29,021
26 0,
0
Agent Provocateur's Paz de la Huerta video campaign
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
78 0,
38,495
00 0
Trussardi
00 0
59,687
00 0
Thomas Pink
52 0,
Agent Provocateur gained viral infamy with its 2006 video featuring Kylie Minogue riding a mechanical bull. This video was later banned from television, but secured a cult-like following for the brand. Agent Provocateur’s official YouTube channel has almost 1.3 million upload views, more than 10 times the average for European niche fashion brands (121,774). The latest video series with Paz de la Huerta has generated 452,312 views on the brand’s YouTube channel. To reinforce its video reign, the brand drives video views with a custom YouTube tab on its Facebook page and a video library on its site.
15
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KEY F IN D IN G S Size vs. Engagement FA CEB O O K Co m m u n i t y s i z e v s . e n gag e m e n t r at e s
Success on Facebook is no longer limited to the size of a
Excluding Pages With < 2,000 Fans
brand’s page; it is also determined by its level of engagement.
(October 2011)
As a group, European niche fashion brands have relatively small communities, averaging approximately 55,000 “likes” and a Facebook interaction rate of 0.16 percent compared to Fashion
FAMILIES
Index's 0.10 percent. Aubade and Lancel are the only brands
TRIBES
to earn the elusive “Tribe” status, cultivating large communities with strong engagement. Both brands have product-centric
KEY:
posting strategies that maintain a connection with their fans.
= “TRIBES” BRANDS:
Product-centric posts are the focus of Lancel's Facebook strategy
Aubade
Brands with Large Facebook Communities and High Engagement
= BRANDS Narrowing on “tribes” categorization
Lancel
LEVEL OF ENGAGEMENT
Jean Paul Gaultier
Racy photographs and free gifts result in high engagement for Aubade © L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
COHORTS
CROWDS
SIZE OF COMMUNITY Note: Horizontal axis (Size of Community) is graphed on a logarithmic scale.
16
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KEY F IN D IN G S
O V ER A CHIE V ER S & U N D ER A CHIE V ER S Actual Facebook Fans vs. Predicted Facebook Fans
Overachievers vs. Underacheivers
(Based on Google Monthly Global Search Volume, October 2011)
Overachievers:
Comparing a brand’s Facebook “likes” to the number of global monthly organic searches for its brand name on Google
98%
100%
(a proxy for brand equity online) provides a metric for identify-
89%
ing brands that are underachieving and overachieving on the
65%
social network.
53% 50%
As with Digital IQ, a bifurcation exists. Of the 36 brands with an
45%
es Er
ni ar
o un Br
M
ti rlu
derachievers, suggesting they have paid limited attention to the
Be
Sl ow
ea
r
M
ag
li
official Facebook account, an overwhelming 78 percent are un-
W Viv es ie tw nn oo e d Su pe rd ry
on Facebook, Vivienne Westwood is the standout. Its community of 353,000 fans is actively promoted through the brand’s
-50%
site and email marketing.
La Ag nv en in tP ro vo ca St ell teu aM r cC ar tn ey
0%
popular social network. Of the remaining brands overachieving
Product Resonates
Underachievers: -100%
Although European Niche Fashion brands utilize a variety of
-97% -99% -99% -99% -100%
content to engage Facebook fans, a whopping 84 percent post about products—and for good reason. Product posts garnered
fa c e b oo k p ost c o n t e n t
the highest average interaction rate, 0.6 percent. Brands were
% of Brands Using vs. Interaction Rate
almost as talkative about events, which also earned a high average interaction rate. Contrary to popular belief, two of the least effective posts at
(October 2011) 84%
0.60%
% of brands using interaction rate
0.59%
77%
generating fan interaction focused on celebrities and adver-
0.44%
tising materials, which 37 percent and 30 percent of brands
0.44% 0.31%
discuss, respectively.
37%
35%
0.29%
30%
0.22% 12%
Product © L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
Event
Celebrity
General Statement
Ad/Commercial
Question
9%
Tip/Advice
17
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KEY F IN D IN G S
m o b i l e f e atu r e ado p t i o n % of Mobile Sites
iMobile
(October 2011)
with
Mobile adoption is considerably low among the 46 European
without
niche fashion brands included in this year’s Index. Only 33 per-
71%
29%
cent of the brands provide any mobile experience—18 percent Store Locator
have developed a mobile-optimized site and 17 percent have developed applications. Only two brands, Agent Provocateur and Blumarine, have both a mobile-optimized site and an ap-
29%
71%
plication. Furthermore, one in five brand sites do not load
E-Commerce Enabled
on a smartphone. The brands that do offer a mobile-optimized experience often do little more than personalize the mobile domain. Less than
93%
7%
30 percent support m-commerce or incorporate a store locator.
Mobile Site Search
This low rate of brand mobile-site adoption is particularly staggering in light of the high mobile adoption rate of Europe’s
ado p t i o n of i os fu n c t i o n al i t y f e atu r e s
population. Not only do countries like Spain, Italy, and the UK boast smartphone penetration rates above 30 percent, but
% of Brands
approximately 55 percent of smartphone users—more than 10
(October 2011)
with without
percentage points above the U.S.—have devices that enable them to browse and perform web-based transactions.
7
67%
33%
Although it outpaces mobile site development, iOS application adoption still lags at 33 percent. Just one brand, Superdry, has an m-commerce enabled iOS app, and just 11 percent feature customer service. Furthermore, a third of brands fail to incorporate a store locator.
Store Locator
44%
56% Social Sharing
78%
22% M-Commerce
89% 7. “Mobile Year in Review,” ComScore, February 14, 2011.
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
11% Customer Service
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Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion
Want to know more about your brand’s ranking? CONTACT US
D I G I T A L PR O J EC T I O N S
L2’s roadmap for navigating the past, present, and future of European Niche Fashion online
Yesterday
Today
Tomorrow Eres
Customer Service
E-Commerce
Facebook Engagement
Online Voice
iOS Experience
YouTube Video
Market Strategy
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
Kenzo
Ted Baker
No email address, no web form, and no store finder; only offers one phone number with limited hours
Only brand in Index to offer live chat
Adolfo Dominguez Balmain • John Lobb
Loro Piana
Agent Provocateur Integrates brand lifestyle content with e-tail
Lookbook-centered sites equipped with bare minimum in e-commerce
Balmain • Gianfranco Ferré No official Facebook page; unaffiliated pages have cropped up to fill the void
Bruno Magli Protected Twitter account discourages followers
Adolfo Dominguez Sergio Rossi • Loro Piana Sites are too flash-heavy to load on a mobile device
Corneliani • Escada • Lancel Cookie-cutter collections of videos featuring ad campaigns, behind-the-scenes coverage, and fashion shows
Gives & Hawkes Turnbull & Asser These men’s brands stick to traditional paid media
“Eres Is at Your Service” lets you request a customer service call from a U.S. or European adviser
Emilio Pucci • Furla • La Perla Facebook programming features custom and gated tabs
Site account lets you customize your e-commerce shopping experience
Vivienne Westwood Full F-commerce soon to come
Agent Provocateur Furla • Escada Strong personality on Twitter, but isolated as only cross-platform promotion is link from site
Agent Provocateur • Blumarine Only brands with both a mobile site and an iOS presence
Agent Provocateur Scandalous video after scandalous video cements brand’s video following
Stella McCartney Sergio Rossi • Emilio Pucci Using some paid digital media
Brand personality evident in tweet stream, which is also featured in widgets on Facebook and site
Superdry Only brand with fully e-commerce enabled iPhone and iPad apps
Lanvin Viral fall 2011 campaign video ties to offline brand buys
Moncler Digital marketing is a combination of earned and paid media—Grand Central Station flash mob attracted the attention of bloggers
19
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion
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flas h of g e n i us
Models Take to the Dance Floor To announce its Fall/Winter 2011 collection, Lanvin released a video lookbook shot by Stephen Meisel. The video features supermodels Karen Elson and Raquel Zimmerman performing a synchronized dance to Pitbull’s “I Know You Want Me (Calle Ocho)” while wearing different pieces from the collection. Introducing silliness to high fashion, the video garnered more than 150,000 views within a few days of release, delighting viewers with its self-mockery. Lanvin Creative Director, Alber Elbaz, even makes a cameo appearance at the end, showcasing his own dance moves. The video was released weeks after still images of Elson and Zimmerman in the same setting were published. Additionally, Lanvin capitalized on the video’s popularity by letting dance pairs enter a raffle to compete in a dance-off during its Fashion’s Night Out event in New York, which the brand shared with followers and fans via tweets and Facebook posts.
Lanvin’s Fall 2011 Campaign video features supermodels Karen Elson and Raquel Zimmerman dancing in unison to Pitbull’s “I Know You Want Me (Calle Ocho)”
Pairs could compete in a dance competition for prizes, creating more content for its social media platforms at a Lanvin FNO event in NYC
Lanvin shot campaign photos in conjunction with the video © L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
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Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion flas h of g e n i us
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“It’s Rutting Season” custom Facebook application
Ted Baker Goes Wild Ted Baker launched an integrated Instagram and Facebook campaign this October called “It’s Rutting Season” to promote its winter collection. The brand held events in its Glasgow, Manchester, and London stores and invited fashion bloggers including Les Garçons de Glasgow, Sara Luxe, and Mademoiselle Robot to take the brand’s Instagram feed and snap photos of in-store shoppers. Shoppers posed in an ensemble from the latest collection in a doe or stag mask and their pictures were uploaded to the brand’s global Facebook page. Rutting models were encouraged to solicit “likes” from their Facebook networks, and the two photo subjects with the most “likes” each week won a Ted Baker shopping spree. The campaign was promoted on the brand’s Twitter account as well as on the blogger/photographers’ personal digital platforms. During the promotions, Ted Baker added an average of 60 percent more fans per day than before the campaign.
Fashion bloggers took Instagram photos of shoppers on three different days, in three different UK cities
Photos were uploaded to Ted Baker’s Facebook page and Twitter feed
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
21
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion
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flas h of g e n i us
Hyper-Local Superdry is the only brand in the Index taking a regional approach to Facebook, managing distinct pages for each major European market. In addition to regional pages, the brand’s global page provides exclusive content for fans in other geographies.
Superdry USA’s “Superdry University” campaign augments its rapid fan growth
Markets are also championing regional innovation. Superdry USA launched a campaign on October 3 targeting digitally savvy college students. Students at participating universities were encouraged to apply to become a brand ambassador for the chance to win a $1,000 Superdry wardrobe and a $500 cash prize. To qualify, applicants were required to have at least 1,000 Facebook friends and recruit 10 percent of them to become Superdry USA Facebook fans. This campaign continues to fuel Superdry USA’s staggering fan growth, which was 124 percent from mid-September to mid-October, beating the other brands in the Index by a wide margin.
The SD Global tab is incorporated on each of Superdry’s country pages, providing a link to Facebook pages across the globe © L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
22
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion flas h of g e n i us
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Moncler celebrated Fashion Week on February 13 by taking over Grand Central Station with a mob of dancers dressed in the brand’s skiwear
Moncler Takes Center Stage To celebrate Fashion Week last February, Moncler staged a flash mob in Grand Central Station. The brand hired 160 dancers clad in Moncler skiwear, as well as 200 extras in order to orchestrate a 10–minute dance routine in the station’s main concourse. To increase virality and buzz around the event, Moncler invited editorial and media guests to a pre-flash mob reception in the balcony above the terminal. Among the guests were many fashion bloggers who provided their own digital coverage of the event. Moncler did not upload a video of the dance spectacle to its YouTube channel, but instead let blogger and press videos, photos, and articles bring the event to life online. The top five videos of the event have amassed almost 150,000 views combined. Moncler has also taken other critical steps to increase its digital footprint this year, joining Facebook and Twitter in September.
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
23
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion flas h of g e n i us
Stella McCartney’s iPad App
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The app includes several photos from the book Linda McCartney: Life in Photographs that were selected by Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney released the second version of its iPad app “Stella’s World” this past summer to coincide with its e-commerce launch in 28 European countries. The app features content about new collections and fashion shows, as well as selections of Linda McCartney’s photography and behind-thescenes coverage of the British Olympic Team shoot. A particularly engaging hub is the “Stella McCartney Kids” section, which is loaded with interactive features embedded in each of the campaign photos. When making a product selection on the “Kids” section, the app seamlessly directs the user to the brand’s e-commerce site.
Behind-the-scenes video of Britain’s Olympic Team in Stella McCartney’s designs in collaboration with Adidas
Coinciding with the release of the app, Stella McCartney added 28 more European countries to its e-commerce site
The “Stella McCartney Kids” section has animated features visitors can click through to change the scenery
© L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
24
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion
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flas h of g e n i us
The Loro Piana Lifestyle
Interactive scenes in the “Our World” section of the site bring the brand personality to life
With the launch of e-commerce in October, Lora Piana went live with one of the most interactive online shopping experiences in the Index. Although flash technology hinders page transitions and mobile browsing, the site is beautifully designed and nabbed one of the highest brand translation scores in the Index. Illustrations of lifestyle scenes greet the user and highlight Portfonio products. Navigation to the product page is somewhat cumbersome, but once there the brand delivers up to 11 product views, strong customer service options, and the ability to favorite and gift. Additionally, the brand aims to drive visitors to retail by automatically detecting IP addresses and displaying local store, time, and weather throughout the site.
Site detects users’ locations and displays information for the nearest stores
Product pages have an extensive collection of product photos © L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
25
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion
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flas h of g e n i us
Tweets from the saucy @TheMissAP are displayed on the homepage’s Twitter widget
Agent Provocateur A key reason Agent Provocateur propelled to the top of this Index is the brand’s rich site experience and superior navigation. Site account holders can personalize their e-commerce enabled site experience by entering their sizes to display only relevant products. Additionally, users can select their preferred currency upon login. Products can be filtered by size, style, and color, and all product previews can be switched from front view to back view. The site also has a section dedicated to the current—and notorious—Paz de la Huerta spokeswoman lookbook that gives users the option to shop for outfits from each of the campaign photos. Finally, the site drives visitors to Agent Provocateur’s social media properties with homepage links to Facebook, Twitter, and YouTube, and also displays a live Twitter feed widget.
Online shoppers can peruse the Paz de la Huerta campaign photos and shop the looks
Account allows shoppers to customize the site content with their sizes and preferred currency © L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
26
Digital IQ Index ®:
European Niche Fashion
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TEAM SCOTT GALLOWAY Clinical Professor of Marketing, NYU Stern Founder, L2 Scott is a Clinical Professor at the NYU Stern School of Business where he teaches brand strategy and luxury marketing and is the founder of L2, a think tank for prestige brands. Scott is also the founder of Firebrand Partners, an operational activist firm that has invested more than $1 billion in U.S. consumer and media companies. In 1997, he founded Red Envelope, an Internetbased branded consumer gift retailer. In 1992, Scott founded Prophet, a brand strategy consultancy that employs more than 120 professionals in the United States, Europe, and Asia. Scott was elected to the World Economic Forum’s “Global Leaders of Tomorrow,” which recognizes 100 individuals under the age of 40 “whose accomplishments have had impact on a global level.” Scott has served on the boards of directors of Eddie Bauer (Nasdaq: EBHI), The New York Times Company (NYSE: NYT), Gateway Computer, eco-America, and UC Berkeley’s Haas School of Business. He received a B.A. from UCLA and an M.B.A. from UC Berkeley. Véronique Valcu L2 Véronique began her career in Deloitte Consulting’s Strategy & Operations practice where she worked with some of the world's largest corporations in retail, manufacturing, and pharma. While there, she conducted extensive social media analyses of consumer-facing brands and contributed to the firm’s growing interest in the space. Post Deloitte, she moved to the Winterberry Group where she performed strategic consulting for advertising and marketing services companies. At L2, Véronique serves as the Specialty Retail and European research lead. She received her B.A. in Communications from the University of Pennsylvania. Maureen Mullen L2 Maureen leads L2’s research and advisory practice where she helped develop the Digital IQ Index®. She has benchmarked digital marketing, e-commerce, and social media efforts of more than 300 brands across pharma, auto, luxury, specialty retail, beauty, and the public sector. Maureen also has led digital strategy consulting engagements for a variety of Fortune 1000 clients. Before joining © L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com
L2, Maureen was with Triage Consulting Group and led managed care payment review and payment benchmarking projects for hospitals, including UCLA Medical Center, UCSF, and HCA. Maureen has a B.A. in Human Biology from Stanford University and an M.B.A. from NYU Stern. Lloyd Salmons Brand Translation, Outside Line Lloyd co-founded the social media agency Outside Line back in 2000. Since then Outside Line have been busy building campaigns and communities for global brands including Diesel, Budweiser, and Virgin Galactic. Prior to this he was responsible for setting up the international new-media marketing network at EMI, working across campaigns for artists such as The Beatles, Queen, Blur, Gorrilaz, Radiohead, and Robbie Williams. These campaigns pioneered online music marketing techniques and won a variety of awards and accolades for digital marketing. Lloyd has also been chairman of the IAB Social Media Council helping to put his experience in to ensuring best practice across the industry. Emily Hallquist L2 Emily is a research associate at L2 where she works with the research team on the Digital IQ Index® reports. Her background is in international relations, and she interned last year with International Business-Government Counsellors (IBC) in Washington, D.C.. At IBC, she assisted on client engagements pertaining to their global operations. Emily received a B.A. in Public Policy with minors in Earth and Ocean Sciences and Political Science from Duke University. R. Danielle Bailey L2 Danielle began her career at The Home Depot, Inc., where she led a variety of internal consulting engagements focused on supply chain, merchandising, and in-store process improvement. She went on to manage the implementation of award-winning mobile initiatives for several large media clients, including The New York Times Company, NBC Universal, Disney/ABC, Maxim magazine, and Zagat. Danielle has a B.S. in Systems Engineering from the University of Virginia and an M.B.A. from NYU Stern.
CHRISTINE PATTON Creative Director, L2 Christine is a brand and marketing consultant with more than 15 years of experience creating brand identities and marketing communications for aspirational and luxury brands. As creative director of L2, she leads the translation of the L2 brand across all touchpoints, with a particular focus on the visual packaging of L2’s research.She began her career at Cosí, where she developed the brand and oversaw its evolution from concept through growth to 100 restaurants. Since then she has provided creative direction for a wide array of clients, including the launch of Kidville and CosmoGIRL! magazine. Christine received a B.A. in Economics and Journalism from the University of Connecticut and an M.B.A from NYU Stern. Jessica Braga L2 Jessica, a freelance art director, specializes in identity, iconography, event graphics, and invitations. Initially beginning her career in fashion, designing textiles and prints at Elie Tahari’s design studio in New York City, she then focused on the Elie Tahari brand aesthetic and consistency in design across its many developing disciplines. Desiring to explore other facets of design, she went on to become the art director of a small, prestigious design firm in Chelsea, where she focused on event graphics, digital and print collateral, and brand aesthetics for companies both large and small. Jessica holds a B.F.A. in Graphic Design, as well as an A.A.S. in Illustration, from Rochester Institute of Technology. Aaron Bunge L2 Aaron is a freelance graphic designer who specializes in print design, branding and identity, packaging, and web design. His approach to design is both aesthetic and functional; characterized by clear, intelligent design that is always appropriate to the project at hand. He began his career tailoring projects for the Chinese, Australian, and U.S. markets, across multiple design disciplines, and in multiple languages. Aaron has a B.F.A. in Graphic Design from Iowa State University.
27
UPCOMING EVENTS L2 Clinic The Social Graph EUROPE
L2 is a think tank for digital innovation.
11.21.11 Paris
We are a membership organization that brings together thought leadership from academia and industry to drive digital marketing innovation.
L2 Clinic Mobile 01.19.12 New York City
Resear ch
01.24.12 Paris
Digital IQ Index®: The definitive benchmark for online competence, Digital IQ Index® reports score brands against peers on more than 350 quantitative and qualitative data points, diagnosing their digital strengths and weaknesses.
EVEN T S
L2 Clinic Digital Marketing 04.13.12 New York City 05.22.12 Paris
Forums: Big-picture thinking and game-changing innovations meet education and entertainment. The largest gatherings of prestige executives in North America.
L2 Clinic Social Media
300+ attendees
06.14.12 New York City
Clinics: Executive education in a classroom setting with a balance of theory, tactics, and case studies.
120 –150 attendees
UPCOMING Research
Working Lunches: Members-only lunches led by digital thought leaders and academics.
Digital IQ Index® Reports:
Prestige 100® Reports:
Topic immersion in a relaxed environment that encourages open discussion.
European Specialty Retail
Mobile
40 – 60 attendees
Travel
Magazines
Emerging Markets
MBA Mashups: Access and introduction to digital marketing talent from top MBA schools.
co n s ulti ng Advisory Services: L2 works with brands to garner greater return on investment in digital initiatives. Advisory work includes Digital Roadmaps, Social Media Strategy, and Site Optimization engagements.
upcoming member benifits Members Site: In Q1 L2 will launch real-time tracking of digital metrics
MEM BE R SHIP For membership info and inquiries: membership@L2ThinkTank.com
(vs. peers).
A Think Tank for DIGITAL INNOVATION
51 East 12th Street, 2nd Floor New York, NY 10003 W: L2ThinkTank.com E: info@L2ThinkTank.com
Š L2 2011 L2ThinkTank.com