TREND REPORT
TREND REPORT
AUTUMN/WINTER 2016
AUTUMN/WINTER 2016
VM & INSTORE Verdant Affairs The Craftsman New Mannequin
PRINT&GRAPHICS High Peaks Cartoon Capture Modern Majesty
SPORTSWEAR Keeping Track Quilted Construction Sheer Motives
Visual Merchandising
Green Smoke Forest Falls Early Spring One Amazon Tree Earth Moss
FIG 1. Giardino Lounge, 2009
Verdant Affairs
Green vertical gardens, woodland centre pieces accessorised with terracotta plants create a connection between the inside and outside. No longer to separate entities, this trend has been adopted by retail stores Anthropologie and Bikini Berlin and restaurants including Vapianos and Giardino Lounge. Unescapable in its scale and position, this trend directly relates to current societal eco issues in a way that an audience are unable to avoid these concerns any longer. Cultural influences include art project like 1 Heart 1 Tree which protests the disconnect of people and nature by connecting personal virtual artwork to a reforestation initiative around the world. Similarly architect Steven Holl designed a building made of three towers connected by garden bridges, a symbol for connectivity and community.
FIG 2. 1 Heart 1 Tree, 2014
FIG 3. Bikini Berlin, 2016
FIG 4. Steven Holl, 2016
FIG 5. Vapianos, 2003
Visual Merchandising
Dark Earth Aged Bronze Matchstick Archive Craftsman’s Clay
FIG 6. Log Pile, 2016
FIG 7. Harvey Nicholls, 2009
The Craftsman
FIG 8. Flaco Design, 2016
FIG 9. Tony Yang, 2016
FIG 10. Bikini Berlin, 2016
The Craftsman is an inspiration for society with its humble handcrafted aesthetic and use of artisan techniques. Large, wooden installations, abstract silhouettes weaved from wood, paper and matchsticks are a rejection of current technology. The craftsman stands as a reminder of the importance of knowledge and skill that should be cherished and maintained for future generations.
Visual Merchandising
FIG 11. Fragments 2005
FIG 12. Bang, 2013
Contemporary artist, Ai WeiWei has integrated innovation and crafts with a narrative of heritage. In his installations, ‘Fragments’ and ‘Bang’ the narrative derives from religion, politics and Chinese culture. New creation merged with previous heritage is the future of this trend.
Visual Merchandising
FIG 13. Window France, 2016
FIG 14. Berlin, 2016
FIG 15. Global Display, 2016
FIG 16. RareBasic, 2016
Rustic Wallpaper Undressed Nudity Porcelain Doll Blue Veins Lipstick Lips
FIG 17. New York, 2015
New Mannequin A new fundamental part of in-store narratives. Statements are made with undressed mannequins, amputated limbs used for functional and aesthetical purposes and high fashion mannequins emitting the pose and personality of models in rustic, industrial settings accentuated with pops of neon and pastel hues. In a world of e-commerce, retailers need to continually engage, excite and challenge consumers and prove to them the importance of the retail experience. The future success of in-store retail will depend on the integration of traditional visual merchandising with digital technology in a way that creates an innovating, inspiring experience for consumers. This is already being shown with projects like World of Me by Millennial 20/20 and Accenture that automatically connects mannequins to consumer’s smartphones to show garments on display in digital form, allow consumers to learn more about the products and complete purchase.
Print & Graphics
FIG 19. Peter Pilotto, 2016
FIG 18. Peter Pilotto, 2016
FIG 20. Emilio Pucci, 2016
Stonewashed Slate Arctic Adventure Nordic Sky Frosted Dawn Iced Blush
FIG 21. Emilio Pucci, 2016
FIG 22. Emilio Pucci, 2016
High Peaks FIG 24. Piste map, 2015
FIG 25. Mountains, 2016
FIG 23. Lawren Harris,Mountains in the Snow, 1929
FIG 26. Premium Poster, 2016
Icy Nordic Landscapes, isolated mountain peaks and atmospheric sceneries ignite a desire for travel and adventure. From Peter Pilotto to Emilio Pucci, this trend captures a taste for experience rather than offering practicality for the garment in the setting, using inspiration from ski piste maps and modernist painters such as Lawren Harris. Travel trends are a catalyst for this ideal as an increasing number of people are foregoing relaxing breaks for winter and experiential travel.
Print & Graphics
FIG 27. Stolen Magazine, 2016
Prince’s Black Clock Strikes Midnight Smiley Face Heart Eyes Red Neptune
Cartoon Capture
Applique badges sparingly scattered across denim, kitsch cartoon print designs and references to emoji’s and catchy slogans define the playful, irreverent mood of this print trend. Inspired by early internet culture, 90’s nostalgia and a childhood reverie, Ashish, Alexander Lewis and Jeremy Scott are examples of designers transporting us into a world full of innocence and wonderment that we may have lost amongst the pressures of adulthood. Personalisation and self-expression are key components for this trend as chosen artwork and imagery will create divergent memories for every individual.
FIG 28. Ashish, 2016 FIG 29. Alexander Lewis, 2016 FIG 30. Jeremy Scott, 2016 FIG 31. Dolce&Gabanna, 2016
Print & Graphics
FIG 33. Bobby Abley, 2016
The future of this trend moves away from print into complete immersion as designers such as Bobby Abley are creating whole garment silhouettes directly inspired by childhood cartoons. Similarly artist Portis Wasp is combining a provocative actuality with fictional fantasies in witty collages.
FIG 32. Portis Wasp, 2014
Print & Graphics
Imperial Taupe Kind Kingship Amber Queen English Complexion Damsel Damson
FIG 34. Gucci, 2016
FIG 35. Miu Miu, 2016
Modern Majesty
FIG 36. De La Renta, 2016
FIG 37. Brock, 2016
FIG 38. Ralph Lauen, 2016
Luxurious yet important is the new attitude as the illusion of vintage garments overrides the eligibility. Sumptuous silk brocades and floral jacquards are juxtaposed with mini dresses, two-piece suits and styled with denim, ties and scattered badges. The effectiveness of this trend goes beyond styling as designers are adopting age old dressmaker techniques onto surprising materials. A trend of many parts, Modern Majesty is an amalgamation of English grandeur and a society where consumers no longer need to choose between their styles.
Sportswear
Keeping Track
Immersed in a culture of androgynous dressing, sportswear and a laid-back 90’s revival, the tracksuit has reformed from the uniform of the underdog to the new millennial power suit. An example of the power of perception, Keeping Track infuses the appearance of underdressed, no matter what the price tag. The emergence of athleisure has welcomed a new attitude making sportswear acceptable in previously considered smart environments, including the front row of Fashion Week. FIG 39. Versace, 2016
Sportswear
FIG 40. Chloe, 2016
FIG 41. Gucci, 2016
FIG 42. Caitlin Price, 2016
The up-market tracksuit has been endorsed by bloggers, editors and fashion houses Chloe, Gucci and Versace sporting classic stripes, accents of fur and floral embroidery in contrasting carnival colours.
FIG 43. Veronika Heilbrunner, 2016
End of the Night Summer Days Sweatwork “Go� Green Ruby Candy
Sportswear
Denim Foundations Burnt Embers Quilted Calico Red Brick Elevation Fuschia Form
FIG 44. Acne Studios, 2016
FIG 45. Acne Studios, 2016
FIG 47. Almeida, 2016
FIG 46. Marques Almeida, 2016
FIG 48. McCartney, 2016
FIG 49. Balenciaga, 2016
Quilted Construction
50. Balenciaga, 2016
Construction is becoming the new objective for outerwear design as Balenciaga, Acne Studios and Marques Almeida are making the once utilitarian sports apparel something which is gloriously fashionable.
Styling and tailoring are two key components of this trend as sculpted, concave silhouettes and outsize proportions are seen slipping coquettishly off shoulders or adorned in a combination of pastel and garish shades as puffer jackets garner a new elevated position in streetwear.
Sportswear
FIG 51. Thomas Heatherwick 2015
FIG 52. Dror Studios, 2015
This constructed silhouette is a reaction to a new designer turned architecture attitude in the industry as a number of successful designers such as Thomas Heatherwick and Dror Benshetrit are experimenting with large-scale architecture.
Sportswear
Sheer Motives FIG 55. Virgil Ablosh, 2016
FIG 56. Nike, 2016
FIG 54. Cottweiler 2016
Nano lightweight materials, high performance, thermal regulations and odour control signify the development in technological fabrics. Sheer Motives disrupts the aesthetic with colourless, sheer material evoking functionality over appearance from brands such as Stella McCartney, Rottweiler and Issey Miyake.
FIG 57. Skingraft, 2015
FIG 58. Shaun Harris, 2016
FIG 53. Stella McCartney 2016
Grey Steel Silicone Silver Oxygen White Salient Lime
Sportswear
FIG 59. Space Race, 1969
A legacy for supremacy, this trend is a modernisation of the 1960’s Space Race and the subsequent fashion. Structured silhouettes, clear colour palette and technical fabrics derived from the chin-strap space bonnets, flat ankle boots, and sleek, plastic-like tech fabrics that defined the spaceage trend of the 1960’s with designers André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin epitomising the era’s affection for everything outer space.
FIG 60. John Bates, 1966
FIG 61. Andre Courreges, 1964
List of Illustrations FIG 1. Giardino Lounge, (2009) At: http://www.matteothun.com/project/51/giardino-zlounge-and-restaurant (Assessed on 06.05.16) FIG 2. 1Heart 1 Project, (2014) At: http://www. huffingtonpost.com/2014/07/15/environmental-art_n_5585288.html (Assessed on 06.05.16) FIG 3. Bikini Berlin, (2016) [Own Image.] FIG 4. Steven Holl (2016) http://uk.blouinartinfo. com/photo-galleries/6-architecture-trends-to-expect-in-2016-slideshow?image=1#sthash.8xIld9to.dpuf FIG 5. Vapianos Dining Concept, (2003) At: http:// www.matteothun.com/files/immaginiMediaGallery/2013/7/100th_vapiano.jpg (Assessed on 05.05.16) FIG 6. Log Pile, (2016) http://www.gardengiant. co.uk/about.html (02.03.2016) FIG 7. Harvey Nicholls, (2010) At: https://www.wgsn. com/storage/vol18/ss_image_store/11/21/10/32/ thumb_014.jpg (Assessed on 05.03.16) FIG 8. Flaco Design, (2016) At: http://flacodesign. bigcartel.com/product/flacopendant2 (Assessed on 05.03.16) FIG 9. Tony Yang, (2016 ) At: https://www.wgsn.com/ storage/vol18/ss_image_store/51/21/10/32/thumb_019. jpg (Assessed on 05.03.16) FIG 10. Bikini Berlin, (2016) [Own Image.] FIG 11. Fragments (2005) At: http://www.telegraph. co.uk/culture/culturepicturegalleries/8004485/ Ai-Weiwei-and-The-Unilever-Series.html?image=4 (Assessed on 05.03.2016) FIG 12. Bang, (2013) At: http://www.thisiscolossal. com/2013/06/bang-ai-weiweis-latest-installation-madefrom-886-antique-stools/ (Assessed on 26.02.2016)
FIG 18. Peter Pilotto (2016) http://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/posts/6335/peter-pilotto-aw16 Assessed on 05.03.16) FIG 19. Peter Pilotto, (2016) At: http://www.vogue. co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/ peter-pilotto/full-length-photos/gallery/1582774 (Assessed on 05.03.16) FIG 20z. Emilio Pucci (2016) http://www.vogue. co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/emilio-pucci/full-length-photos/gallery/1586985 (Assessed on 05.03.16) FIG 21. Emilio Pucci (2016) http://www.vogue.co.uk/ fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/emilio-pucci/close-up-photos/gallery/1586803 (Assessed on 12.05.16) FIG 22. Emilio Pucci (2016) At: http://www.vogue. co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/emilio-pucci/full-length-photos/gallery/1586984 (Assessed on 05.03.16) FIG 23. Lawren Harris,Mountains in the Snow, (1929) https://redtreetimes.com/2015/09/03/quote-of-theweek-lawren-harris/ (Assessed on 07.03.16) FIG 24. Piste map, (2015) At:http://www.privetsochi. ru/blog/eco-sochi/57301.html (Assessed on 07.03.16) IG 25. Mountains, (2016) At: http://www.rarewallpapers.com/nature/tall-foggy-mountains-21857/ (Assessed on 08.03.16) FIG 26. Premium Poster (2016) At: https://www. linkedin.com/company/premium-exhibitions-ii-gmbh (Assessed on 08.03.16)
FIG 27. Stolen Magazinet, 2016 At: https:// www.wgsn.com/storage/vol20/ss_image_ store/20/42/36/42/thumb_sHMzzW1BCxPfUnZP0DxeLgWTwZ2f8rWU-1_3.jpg FIG 28. Ashish, (2016) http://www.wonderlandmagFIG 13. Window France, (2016) At: https://www.wgsn. azine.com/2015/09/lfw-ashish-ss16/ (Assessed on 12.05.16) com/storage/vol20/ss_image_store/63/92/67/42/ FIG 29. Alexander Lewis (2016) At: http://wwd.com/ thumb_vmd0416_IMG_1724.jpg (Assessed on fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/alexander-lew11.05.16) is-rtw-fall-10365767/#!13/undefined/ (Assessed on FIG 14. Berlin, (2016) [Own Image] 30.04.16) FIG 15. Global Display, (2016) At: http://global-disFIG 30. Jeremy Scott (2016) At: http://www.vogue. play.co/abc-vm-display-show-2016 (Assessed on co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/jere11.05.16) my-scott/full-length-photos/gallery/1569429 (Assessed FIG 16. Rare Basic, (2016) At: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/?lang=en#/65810/page/8 on 07.05.16) FIG 31. Dolce&Gabanna (2016) At: http://www. (Assessed on 11.05.16) vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/readyFIG 17. New York, (2015) [Own Image] to-wear/dolce-and-gabbana/close-up-photos/gallery/1590512 (Assessed on 26.04.16)
FIG 32. Portis Wasp (2014) At: http://www.myportiswaspsays.com/2014/11/instagram-collages-week-5. html (Assessed on 08.05.16) FIG 33. Bobby Abley (2016) At: http://www. tumbnation.com/tumblr-tag/matty%20carrington?page=1453231694 (Assessed on 12.05.16) FIG 34. Gucci (2016) http://www.vogue.com.tw/ fashion/trends/photo-22120-374501.html (Assessed on 12.05.16) FIG 35. Miu Miu (2016) http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/miu-miu/closeup-photos/gallery/1606185 (Assessed on 30.04.16) FIG 36. Oscar De La Renta (2016) http://www.10magazine.com/womenswear/oscar-de-la-renta-ready-towear-aw16 (Assessed on 28.04.16) FIG 37. Brock (2016) http://www.brocknewyork.com/ collection/fall-winter-2016/ (Assessed on 28.04.16) FIG 38. Ralph Lauen (2016) http://www.joliegazette. com/fashionjan2016-1/2016/2/18/joliegazette-ralphlauren-fall-2016-ready-to-wear (Assessed on 30.03.16) FIG 39. Versace (2016) At: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ fashion/trends/2015-16-autumn-winter/chic-tracksuits (Assessed on 02.05.16) FIG 40. Chloe (2016) At: http://www.marissacollections.com/blog/all-articles/runway-review-chloespring-2016/ (Assessed on 02.05.16) FIG 41. Gucci (2016) At: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/gucci/ close-up-photos/gallery/1585051 (Assessed on 02.05.16) FIG 42. Caitlin Price (2016) At: http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=2714 (Assessed on 07.05.16) FIG 43. Veronika Heilbrunner (2016) http://www. rewenji.com/p/9-164887-1.html (Assessed on 02.05.16)
almeida-aw16 (Assessed on 11.05.16 FIG 48. Stella McCartney, 2016 At: http://www.vogue. co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/ stella-mccartney/full-length-photos/gallery/1601876 (Assessed on 30.04.16) FIG 49. Balenciaga, 2016 http://www.vogue.co.uk/ fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/balenciaga/close-up-photos/gallery/1600530 (Assessed on 11.05.16) 50. Balenciaga, 2016 http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/balenciaga/fulllength-photos/gallery/1600640 FIG 51. Thomas Heatherwick 2015 At: http:// www.dezeen.com/2015/07/01/products-and-buildings-the-same-thomas-heatherwick-designers-turn-to-architecture/ (Assessed on 13.05.16) FIG 52. Dror Studios, 2015 http://www.dezeen. com/2015/10/05/studio-dror-benshetrit-interview-dontneed-to-be-an-architect-to-design-buildings/ (Assessed on 13.05.16) FIG 53. Stella McCartney (2016) At: http://obsessivecollectors.com/curatedbymartinajane/plastic (Assessed on 13.05.16) FIG 54. Cottweiler (2016) At: http://emmagibney. com/Sang-Bleu-SWEAT (Assessed on 3.03.16) FIG 55. Virgil Ablosh (2016) http://obsessivecollectors.com/curatedbymartinajane/plastic (Assessed on 13.05.16) FIG 56. Nike (2016) http://news.nike.com/news/movimentos-livres-para-o-jogo-veloz (Assessed on 3.03.16) FIG 57. Skingraft (2015) At: http://www.whoknowsfashion.com/2015/01/30/your-super-bowl-look/ (Assessed on 1.03.16) FIG 58. Shaun Harris, (2016) http://www.bricksmagazine.co.uk/#!One-to-Watch-Shaun-Harris/c1sp5/55f9c4b00cf29dcad94bf170 (Assessed on 13.05.16)
FIG 59. Space Race, (1969) https://www.victoriaadvocate.com/news/2016/feb/24/the-last-man-on-the-moonFIG 44. Acne Studios (2016) At: http://www.dazeddig- packed-with-action-heart/ (Assessed on 07.03.16) ital.com/fashion/gallery/21698/15/acne-studios-aw16 FIG 60. John Bates, 1966 https://designkultur.word(Assessed on 11.05.16) press.com/2011/10/11/fashion-when-the-future-wasFIG 45. Acne Studios (2016) http://www.vogue.co.uk/ ultramodern-samples-from-the-space-age/model-wearfashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/acne-studi- ing-space-age-fashion-by-john-bates-1966/ (Assessed os/full-length-photos/#gallery/1599482 (Assessed on on 07.03.16) 30.04.16) FIG 61. Andre Courreges, 1964 http://www.icon-icon. FIG 46. Marques Almeida (2016) At: http://www. com/en/courregess-trapeze-dress.html (Assessed on dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/21610/11/marques02.03.16) almeida-aw16 (Assessed on 11.05.16) FIG 47. Marques Almeida (2016) At: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/21610/4/marques-
KATIE HAMILTON