LOCAL EATS CASA DE TRES REYES

Story and photos by Mabel Suen

Des Peres has a new destination for Latin American fare. Casa de Tres Reyes debuted in November with a menu of tacos, grilled meats, margaritas and more.

The concept comes from co-owners Derek Deaver and Ryan Pinkston, who brought on chef Andrew Cisneros of Jalea and Sanguchitos by Brasas to consult on the menu. Chef Marcos Godinez heads up the kitchen and its day-today operations; he brings a diverse culinary background to the table that includes serving as sous chef at Público, working under acclaimed chef Rick Bayless in Chicago and opening restaurants across the country for Pinstripes, a Chicago-based Italian-American bistro brand. Godinez cites his time with family in Mexico as the inspiration for his signature techniques and recipes.

“I was born in the states, but a lot of my childhood was spent with family in Guanajuato, Mexico, tasting food at a young age,” Godinez says. “I cook with inspiration from my family, where I’m from and what I’ve seen.”

The dining area features interior design work by Deaver’s wife, Kasey, who used a vibrant collection of colorful tile mosaics and plants to complement Casa de Tres Reyes’ bold menu. Choose from a wide selection of food items such as the popular à la carte tacos served on handmade yellow corn tortillas sourced locally from Sureste. Other options include confit pork belly with pico, aji verde, cilantro and house crema, as well as house-smoked brisket with house queso, tomatillo jam, pico and cilantro.

“Even though we do have a lot of heavy-hitting Mexican items, I would love for us to be known as a Latin American restaurant,” Godinez says. “I want to keep integrating and adding things. We’ll be using original tried and true techniques, but the way we put them on the plate may be different than what people are used to.”

Signature entrées include a la plancha, or grill plates with your choice of marinated chicken, carne asada or blackened shrimp with sautéed bell peppers, red onions, jalapeños, cilantro, lime, chimichurri sauce, black beans, sofrito rice and warm flour tortillas.

Cisneros’ Peruvian influence can be found on the menu in the form of Jalea’s yuca fries, served with aji verde, as well as his signature sanguchitos – smoked chicken salad sandwiches. He also developed an elite appetizer – fire-roasted corn cut from the cob with queso, Tajin, Cotija, cilantro and roasted garlic aïoli.

“One thing I think that will really surprise people is that we have a legit full commercial smoker in our kitchen, so we’ll be having fun with Latin barbecue,” Godinez adds. “I’ll be slowly and strategically pushing more adventurous things on the menu.” ln

Casa de Tres Reyes is open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Casa de Tres Reyes, 1181 Colonnade Center, Des Peres, 314-394-0214, casadetresreyes.com