Local Eats

CHEF MA’S

By Mabel Suen

This past winter, the acclaimed go-to eatery Chef Ma’s Chinese Gourmet – which features takeout classics alongside a full menu of Cantonese-style cuisine – moved to larger quarters in Overland after shuttering its original Woodson Avenue location.

The relocation started in late February, with the full reopening effective May 1. The new space on Page Avenue lies just a few miles from the old one.

Chef Ma’s debuted in 2015 under chef Ying Jing Ma. Ma’s culinary journey began in Hong Kong, his birthplace; his subsequent career in hotels and restaurants took him to Singapore, Malaysia, Hawaii, California and, ultimately, the metro area, where he helmed the kitchen at University City’s Mandarin House for almost three years before leaving to launch his own place.

The recent move, as noted, gave Ma a bigger space in a good location. He now owns the 1,000-square-foot property, which seats 80 – more than twice Chef Ma’s previous capacity of 35. The original restaurant occupied a former Taco Bell; the new one, a defunct Pizza Hut.

Although the environs have changed, the menu of Chinese comfort food remains the same. From it, guests can still choose from traditional items, including one of Ma’s personal favorites, golden yolk pumpkin shrimp: shrimp and squash coated in a light, crisp batter as a savory entrée.

Royal Empress Chicken – another of the chef’s favorites, regularly seen on tables during staff meals – involves tender poached chicken and comes in both whole and half orders with a ginger dipping sauce and peanuts. Also available for sharing are wholesome hot pots like fish fillet stew, with cabbage, mixed organic mushrooms and chicken meatballs.

A popular vegetarian menu highlight, the Lotus Veggies Delight, features lotus root and such mixed vegetables as carrots, shiitakes and snow peas in a white sauce. For fans of spice, meanwhile, Ma recommends twice-cooked pork; the caramelized pork belly dish comes with tofu strips and veggies in a sweet-and-spicy sauce.

On the menu’s flip side, Chef Ma’s offers classic chop suey-style dishes including appetizers, soups, entrées, fried rice and lo mein. Monday through Friday, the eatery also offers a lunch special featuring items like cashew chicken and beef with broccoli. ln Chef Ma‘s Chinese Gourmet, 10440 Page Ave., Overland, 314-395-8797