Local Eats

Bistro La Floraison

By Mabel Suen

The latest restaurant from Take Root Hospitality – the team behind Vicia, Winslow’s Table and Taqueria Morita – just opened in July in Clayton: Bistro La Floraison.

The restaurant comes from the husband-andwife duo of Michael and Tara Gallina and chef Aaron Martinez, and it fills the swanky space previously occupied by Bar Les Frères, which shuttered in 2020 after eight years of service. Chef Patrick Fallwell, formerly of Vicia, heads the kitchen for the bistro/ wine bar, paying homage to its predecessor with a refreshing take on French flair.

“We plan to stay loyal to the vibe and essence that helped establish Bar Les Frères as an iconic St. Louis restaurant,” Tara Gallina says in a press release. “But we’re looking forward to bringing our own style to the restaurant as well, starting with a new name and incorporating a playfully innovative take on French fare and our signature service experience.”

Bistro La Floraison gets its name from the French word for blossoming, representing the most beautiful part of the life cycle of plants – particularly grapes. Its 1,600 square feet received a cosmetic refresh from St. Louis’ SPACE Architecture + Design, featuring a pink banquette, sage green walls and artwork by Andrew Millner. The dining area seats 40, with another 24 seats on a front patio.

From the menu, guests can choose from takes on such Bar Les Frères favorites as gougères (sublime French cheesy pastries), oysters and caviar, as well as new offerings including an olive oil-poached Ōra King salmon entrée with summer squash, pistachios, black truffle and vierge, a French sauce approximating salsa.

“It’s a classic but playful approach to French food,” Falwell says. “Between chef Michael and Aaron and their backgrounds, I think it’s been a fun collaboration bouncing ideas back and forth.”

The food offerings are broken down into snacks, salads, hors d’oeuvres and desserts. Highlights include country pâté en croûte with walnuts, verjusbraised Bing cherries, soubise and a toasted baguette; Parisian gnocchi with sweet corn, chanterelles and demi-sec tomatoes; and Basque cheesecake with brown sugar-macerated stone fruit.

From the bar, guests can choose from beer, spritzes and modern takes on French cocktails like the Roffignac, with raspberry shrub, cognac, simple syrup and carbonated water. The extensive French-inspired wine list features reds, whites, Champagne and other sparkling wines, rosés and orange wines to pair with the fare.

“The snack menu itself is meant to be shared as multiple plates paired with nice wines,” Falwell says. “If you want to finish with an entrée, the idea is that they’re large enough to be shareable as well. You can definitely enjoy it by yourself, but it’s best enjoyed with company.” ln Bistro La Floraison, 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314-725-8880, bistrolafloraison.com