Local Eats

Afandi Sweets & Cafe

By Mabel Suen

In St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park neighborhood, a third-generation pastry chef crafts Middle Eastern sweets and cuisine based on a century’s worth of family recipes. In July, Jwamer Rasheed opened Afandi Sweets & Cafe, which features baklava, the dessert kenafeh, kebabs and more. Rasheed says his grandfather, Saie, pioneered the family food tradition. In 1918, he opened a bakery in Kurdistan and introduced baklava to his customers in northern Iraq. Each of Saie’s seven sons went on to open their own businesses, including Rasheed’s father, who established his own bakery in 1962 – eventually teaching Rasheed the tools and techniques of the trade.

Afandi – which translates to “master” from Arabic – makes the Rasheeds’ skillfully prepared fare available outside Kurdistan for the first time. Rasheed moved to St. Louis, from which his wife hails, in 2003 after living in San Diego. He trained with his family for half a year in Kurdistan to cap 15 years of baking experience before bringing the concept stateside.

“I’m very excited to introduce our delicious sweets, baked goods and recipes from my grandfather to the St. Louis area,” Rasheed says. “We use honey for everything – no sugar is involved, and everything is organic. We make all the baked goods and food from scratch. Everything’s fresh and made in-house.”

Afandi fills the 6,900 square feet previously occupied by River’s Edge Social. The space comprises two separate rooms, one given to dining, the other to a long display case gleaming with desserts. A bar lined with hookahs – offered with more than a dozen different flavors – sits opposite the bakery counter.

Rasheed’s scratch-made phyllo takes on many forms and is stuffed with such fillings as roasted pistachios, walnuts, cashews, dried fruit and chocolate. Patrons can purchase flaky, honeysoaked baklava both by the piece and by the pound. Another signature item, kenafeh, comprises melted akkawi cheese topped with shredded phyllo, honey, roasted nuts and, if desired, ice cream.

From the food menu, customers can choose from entrées like a mix grill with lamb shish kebab, the chicken dish shish tawook and kofta kebab (skewers of lamb and beef). Appetizers include the ground lamb dish kibbe with the sesame seed-based tahini, and to drink, customers can opt for Arabic coffee or tea, the yogurt drink ayran or pressed juices. ln Afandi Sweets & Cafe, 6997 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314-359-5144, facebook.com/afandisweetsandcafe