Water, Water Everywhere

Maintaining your vessel’s freshwater system.

If boaters were relegated to drinking only water while underway, the number of nasty, poorly maintained freshwater systems I see while surveying would drop to zero. Here’s how to transform the Hell’s broth of foul-tasting H2O that intermittently spews from your faucet into the maritime equivalent of a pure mountain stream.

Anatomy of a freshwater system

A basic pressurized system consists of a vented tank, an electric pump (typically a diaphragm model), a filter between tank and pump (to protect the pump from debris), possibly a water heater, and the various hoses, valves, faucets and connections that tie the system together.

Troubleshooting pressurized freshwater systems

Routine system inspections and maintenance is the key; it not only goes a long way towards heading off potential problems, but also ensures familiarity and faster troubleshooting when the time comes.

Barring pump troubles (which can often be traced to corroded or damaged electrical connections), most problems associated with pressurized water systems involve some form of leak. Leaks can introduce air into the system, resulting in continuous pump cycling and decreased water pressure. Here are some simple maintenance tips to keep things running smoothly.

• Inspect every connection for possible leaks. Start with the one at the tank and work your way through the entire system, checking fittings, tightening clamps and inspecting hoses for damage, sharp bends and other problem areas as you go along.

• Check the pump intake strainer for air leaks or debris.

• Check the pump mounting and electrical connections, ensuring each is tight and free of corrosion.

• Check the accumulator tank connections and mounting.

• Check the water heater for leaks.

• Check the tank vent hose for blockage (kinks, low spots that can trap water, insects, clogged screen vents, etc.). A blocked vent prevents airflow into the tank, which can drastically reduce system performance.

• Inspect the O-ring for the water tank fill cap. This seal is critical in preventing on-deck contaminants from entering the system: Sand, fuel or even sewage (if located near the deck pump-out for the sanitation system).

Passing the taste test

Other than limited use or the occasional guy who fills his water tanks with fuel (don’t laugh — it happens more than you think) bad-tasting water typically boils down to one of three causes:

1. Taking on poor quality water to begin with.

2. Chemical or plastic flavors imparted by materials used in the system.

3. The presence of algae, bacteria or other such organisms.

Questionable water is generally not a problem in urban areas, although it can be in rural or remote locations. In some cases, the water may be biologically safe, but retains some element that imparts a bad odor or aftertaste. The cure here is flushing the system thoroughly and replacing it with good water at the first opportunity. Even better, run some water into a glass and check for clarity and odor before filling up. If it smells bad, isn’t clear or has a strange taste, hold off on filling your tank until the next marina.

When dealing with bacteria or algae, the first step is opening and inspecting the tank. If it contains solids (like dirt or slime) it will have to be cleaned prior to starting any form of treatment.

After inspecting the tank, check the condition of all hoses. Good quality, reinforced portable water hoses will be opaque (rather than clear) to prevent algae growth. If old, brittle or severely fouled, the best course of action is replacement.

The next step is usually “shocking” the system, which involves flushing it with some type of critter-killing solution. Commercially available mixtures and purifying tablets are available, but bleach is cheap, widely available and works well. While the flushing process and suggested bleach to water ratio varies depending on who you ask, I’ve used the following with good results:

1. Turn off the water heater (if so equipped) and let the water cool.

2. Fill the system, adding 1 cup of bleach for every 10 gallons of water. Dilute the bleach prior to adding: Fill the tank ¾ full, mix the bleach in a gallon jug of water (2 cups of bleach per jug), add the bleach/water solution to the tank, then continue filling. Note: As bleach can react with aluminum, those with aluminum freshwater tanks should skip the bleach altogether and use one of the commercially available treatments specifically designed for use in aluminum tanks.