Port of Call: Honey Harbour, ON

Hitting itting the Sweet Spot

With its beautiful scenery, great fi shing and gin-clear waters, Ontario’s Honey Harbour remains a top spot to enjoy unique natural beauty without venturing too far from the spa.

bY cRAIG rITcHIE

Beausoleil Island, Georgian Bay Islands National Park

Fairy Lake Trail on Beausoleil Island Harbour Honey

Georgian Bay’s 30,000 Islands

Beausoleil Island Deer Island

Little Beausoleil Island Mermaid Island

Roberts Island HONEY HARBOUR

THERE WAS A TIME WHEN YOU COULD ACTUALLY SMELL THE PLACE.

Loggers who arrived along the southeastern shoreline of Georgian Bay back in the early 1800s noted that they could smell the sweet fragrance of honey from far offshore, a scent which only grew stronger as they approached the tangled maze of islands and inlets that the Hurons knew as the lands with many bees. It didn’t take long before everyone started calling the place Honey Harbour, and time has only sweetened its appeal.

The bees are still there, although today you’re more likely to fi nd fresh honey at one of the region’s many apiaries (bee farms) than to spot it leaking from the hardwoods that loggers once prized for their unique golden grain. The terms “honey maple“ and “honey oak“ were coined to describe wood harvested from trees that housed bee hives, where the honey would mix with the sap and stain the wood. Honey Harbour was well known for its golden-hued timber, which commanded an enormous premium in markets on both sides of the Great Lakes.

Today, the loggers are long gone and the apiaries are now the primary source of honey for visitors to this glorious region, where wildfl owers of every description still dot a landscape that looks like something straight out of a Group of Seven painting. With the honey now harvested continually instead of left to cake on the sides of trees, the shorelines today no longer offer quite the same fragrant impact they once did. But with its near-perfect balance of modern facilities and untamed beauty, Honey Harbour remains one port of call that belongs on everyone’s bucket list.

Located only about two hours north of Toronto, Honey Harbour’s up-and-down topography is punctuated everywhere by the jagged granite of the Canadian Shield. It’s a stark and rugged landscape, one that makes road access diffi cult, rail lines impractical and industrial development out of the question. The lay of the land served to protect Honey Harbour from the rampant shoreline development that saw so much of the Great Lakes shoreline paved over during the last century. That, and its position as a gateway to Georgian Bay’s extraordinary 30,000 Islands, is precisely what makes the region such a boater’s paradise today.

It’s also a cottager’s paradise, and you’ll see plenty of them poking through the trees. Summer weekends can see a fair amount of boat traffi c in this region, as locals, visiting boaters and summer residents alike zip about running errands, chasing fi sh and otherwise enjoying the good life.

Set sail

By far the most enjoyable way to visit Honey Harbour is the same way the loggers once did — by boat. Approaching the eastern shore of Georgian Bay from the water is always a dramatic experience.

Because the rugged shoreline terrain continues under water, you’ll want to pay close attention to your navigation as you approach Honey Harbour from the open waters of Georgian Bay. This is one place where new arrivals need to keep one eye on the GPS at all times, with current paper charts, binoculars and a good compass as backup. If it’s your fi rst visit, open up Canadian Hydrographic Service Strip Chart 2202 and have your fi rst mate keep careful track of the marker buoy numbers as you pass them, so you always know exactly where you are. The Canadian Shield may be magnifi cent to behold, but it’s notoriously unforgiving where stray propellers are concerned.

A great source to obtain the much-needed charts for this area is The Nautical Mind Bookstore (NAUTICALMIND.COM). This independent Ontariobased store offers a comprehensive selection of nautical charts, cruising guides and an endless selection of nautical books.

As you navigate southeast past Giant’s Tomb Island and into the protected waters of Severn Sound, stick to the main shipping channel until you pass the southern tip of Beausoleil Island (pronounced “bow-so-lay,” which is French for “beautiful sun”). There, between Beausoleil Point and Present Island, you can pick up the Small Craft Channel heading to the northeast. Watch for the large red and white buoy that sits about ¾ miles south of the western tip of Roberts Island, followed by the elevated, fl ashing white light at Turning Rock on the island’s southeastern tip. From there, you should be able to pick up the well-buoyed entrance channel that leads into Honey Harbour proper, which sits only a mile or so to the north.

Put it in park

Honey Harbour’s top attraction is its remarkable natural beauty, and the best way to enjoy it up close is with a visit to Georgian Bay Islands National

Park. Spanning a total area of just over five square miles, the park consists of 63 small islands and parts of other islands poking up from the depths of Georgian Bay’s crystal-clear waters. The park can only be accessed by water, which means using your own boat, taking a local water taxi or catching a ride on one of the park’s GBI Daytripper ferries, which depart from the Parks Canada dock in Honey Harbour through the summer months.

The park’s showpiece is the largest of the islands, five mile-long Beausoleil with its outstanding hiking, cycling, paddleboarding and truly breathtaking shoreline views. More than a dozen established trails lead to the most scenic lookouts and significant points of interest scattered across the island. Geocaching is a new and popular activity at the park, with an ever-growing list of sites waiting to be discovered.

To really make the most of a visit, it’s possible to stay overnight in one of a small number of rental cabins with barbecues and basic kitchen facilities, which offers a nice break for those in need of a night off the boat. Whether it’s glamping, a rustic cabin at Cedar Springs or waterfront views at Christian Beach, a night or two on shore at Beausoleil is an experience not likely to be soon forgotten.

30,000 reasons to visit

You’ll spot any number of cruising boats navigating to and from Honey Harbour on a summer’s day. Many of them pop into town only to refuel and provision, spending the rest of their time exploring the nearby 30,000 Islands. And yes, there are more than 30,000 of them, so keep those charts handy and note the numbers on the buoys.

Designated as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in 2004, the 30,000 Islands stretch from just south of Honey Harbour all along the eastern shoreline of Georgian Bay north to French River. The largest freshwater archipelago in the world, the islands are said to be the eroded roots of an ancient mountain range called the Grenville Mountains. The granite-sculpted shorelines of the islands, exposed by glaciers at the end of the last ice age, represent a unique habitat that supports a variety of rare and endangered plants, mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians. They’re also home to a number of more common species, including ospreys, bald eagles, peregrine falcons, both red and gray foxes, white-tailed deer, woodland caribou, moose, black bears and timber wolves. As you cruise among the islands you’ll want to keep a camera with a good telephoto lens handy at all times, especially if you choose to anchor in a peaceful cove for the night.

A number of islands in the area, including Beausoleil, represent one of the last refuges for the seldom-seen Eastern Massasauga rattlesnake. Although they are venomous and must be treated with respect, these diminutive and timid creatures avoid contact with people at all costs, and will make every attempt to escape if approached. Respect them, but don’t be afraid, as Massasaugas represent a serious threat only to the mice and frogs that form the bulk of their diet. If you should be lucky enough to spot one before it darts away to safety, consider yourself exceptionally fortunate to have had a truly rare experience.

For those who enjoy the kind of wildlife that lives below the waves, Georgian Bay Islands National Park and the 30,000 Islands happen to be a terrific place to wet a line, with abundant bass, pike, crappie and perch. Fishing has long been an important part of life in the region, and the easy success of early anglers explains the names of local hot spots like Frying Pan Bay and Dinner Point.

A shore thing

Between the up-and-down terrain and the fact it was first settled long before roads came to the area, the village of Honey Harbour is unique in that the original settlement grew with a view to transportation over water rather than over land. As such, it doesn’t really have a traditional downtown core that’s lined with stores, cafes and art galleries. While the village is fairly spread out, the majority of businesses still have either direct or very close access to the water, making any visit here a truly unique experience.

For the most part, shopping in Honey Harbour means reprovisioning, where boaters dinghy in, load up with supplies, then get back to enjoying the region’s natural beauty as quickly as possible.

One of the most popular spots to do just that is the Picnic Island Resort, located on the west side of Picnic Island. Its signage is clearly visible from the channel leading into Honey Harbour from Severn Sound, making it extremely easy to find. The well-stocked general store carries a surprising selection of groceries, including an excellent on-site butcher shop and plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables — all at decent prices and with free docking for customers.

The Picnic Island store also operates an exceptionally popular takeout restaurant called The Fry Hut, serving fries, fish and chips, burgers and hot dogs. Be forewarned — it’s just about impossible to stop at Picnic Island without caving in and grabbing a box of fries to go. You can smell them as you tie up at the dock, and you’ll notice that nearly everyone in sight has a little take-out box in hand.

If you’d rather see what’s on tap in the town itself, then you’ll find plenty of free docking at Honey Harbour Park Landing, located on the shoreline immediately east of Picnic Island and adjacent to the marked Georgian Bay Islands National Park dock. About 300 feet or so up the road to your left you’ll find Honey Harbour’s main drag, with a good hardware store that carries some marine parts and accessories, an excellent grocery store with a deli and bakery, and an ATM. There are also two real estate offices nearby, in case you’re tempted to spring for your own little piece of paradise.

The LCBO (a government-operated liquor

The Hive The Giants Chair, Georgian Bay Islands National Park

Harbour House Daytripper ferry

Christian Beach

Facilities for Boaters

While the village itself is quite small, the Honey Harbour area boasts outstanding amenities for visiting boaters, including a number of large, full-service marinas.

Bayview Marine Resort

Located on the mainland just south of Picnic Island, Bayview Marine Resort has 120 slips and can accommodate visiting vessels up to 36 feet. There’s a small marine store with charts, marine hardware, clothing, rope and other supplies  705-756-2482 / BAYVIEWMARINE.CA

Blue Water Family Cottages

On shore east of Picnic Island, this smaller cottage resort has a small marina with space for visiting boats up to about 30 feet.  705-756-2454 / BWLODGING.CA

Brandy’s Cove Yachting Centre

Located on the south side of Brandy’s Island, the facility has 120 slips accommodating vessels up to 55 feet. The marina can haul boats up to 25 tons and offers full mechanical, diesel, electronics, fi berglass and canvas repair.  705-765-9900 / BRANDYSCOVE.COM

CnC Marina and Construction

CnC is a smaller facility on the eastern shore, with slips for around 30 boats including a couple of visiting vessels up to about 30 feet.

 705-756-3231 / CNCMARINAANDCONSTRUCTION.COM

Georgian Bay Landing

A smaller facility located on the eastern end of Honey Harbour, the facility has a small but well-stocked store.

 705-756-2495 / GOHOMEBAY.ORG/GEORGIAN-BAY-LANDING

Honey Harbour Boat Club Marina

Located in Honey Harbour just east of Royal Island, the Honey Harbour Boat Club Marina has 150 slips and extensive service facilities, including emergency towing and a mobile mechanic.  705-756-2411 / HHBC.CA

Jim Langley Marine

Located in Honey Harbour across the bay from Village Marina, Jim Langley Marine offers mechanical service, engine repairs and full repower services.  705-756-1662 / JIMLANGLEYMARINE.CA

Nautilus Marina

South of Mermaid Island right on the Honey Harbour entrance channel, Nautilus Marina is a full-service facility with 280 slips for vessels up to around 40 feet. It offers full repair services and a well-stocked marine store.  705-756-5534 / NAUTILUSMARINA.CA

Paragon Marina

Located on the mainland east of Picnic Island, Paragon Marina is a full-service facility with slips for 215 boats up to 65 feet in length. There’s a well-stocked marina store on-site, with a full range of mechanical and electrical repair services, fi berglass repair and cleaning available.  705-756-2402 / PARAGONMARINA.COM

Purser Marine Services

Operating from Nautilus Marina, Purser Marine Services is a full-service repair facility providing a wide range of boat and engine repairs.  705-756-9090 / PURSERMARINE.CA

South Bay Cove Marina

A major, full-service facility with extensive docking for vessels up to 100 feet, South Bay Cove is located about two miles into Honey Harbour proper, in South Bay on the southeast corner. Full service available for any sort of mechanical or electrical repair.  705-756-3333 / SOUTHBAYCOVE.COM

South Harbour Marina

Located in Honey Harbour’s South Bay, the marina has about 80 slips for boats up to 40 feet. Repair services are available on-site.  705-756-2473

Village Marina

Located on the north shore of Lily Pond Bay, the marina has about 100 slips for boats up to 35 feet. An on-site marine store sells supplies and live bait, while a well-stocked convenience store carries a wide range of essentials. Repair services can be arranged.  705-756-2706

and beer store) sits another 450 feet or so up the road. It’s an easy and pleasant walk, though locals more often use a small dock located behind it for quicker access.

Right across the road from the LCBO on Franks Lane is The Hive, a wonderful little escape with shopping, snacks and a delightful spa. Here you’ll find an excellent selection of unique gifts, knick-knacks, books, jewelry and crafts, along with a first-rate café that makes the perfect spot to pause and relax with a fresh tea or coffee. Honey Harbour regulars visit The Hive for its delightful spa, which offers a unique opportunity to enjoy some shameless self-indulgence. Spa services include both wellness and hot stone massage, reflexology, Indian head and shoulder massage, and custom organic facials to provide some welcome refreshment after all that sunscreen and wind burn.

For those looking to limber up after a few days on the boat, The Hive’s resident yogi, Ann Green, offers Yoga On The Water classes throughout the season using stand-up paddleboards that enable participants from beginners to experts to experience a physical and spiritual connection to nature. These sessions, like the spa, are very popular so you’re best to call ahead to secure your spot.

Wine and dine

If you’re looking for a break from kitchen duty, then you’ll find a couple of appealing dining options in and around town. Conveniently, many of the best restaurants are located at area resorts where your table awaits just a stone’s throw from the dock.

That includes the Harbour House, located at Nautilus Marina, just east of Royal Island and right on the main channel leading into Honey Harbour proper. It’s easy to spot from the water, with its delightful patio and million-dollar views. Sit upstairs, if you can, for the best perspectives. The Harbour House offers a diverse menu that includes a number of smoked dishes prepared in the restaurant’s on-site smokehouse. If you’re not in the mood for smoked fare, the fish tacos are a favorite.

Maple Canadian Pub, formerly known as Top of The Cove Wine and Dine, is located at South Bay Cove Marina. The restaurant offers casually elegant dining on the water with magnificent lake views and free dockage for visiting diners. They also offer take-out and catering to your vessel, if desired. The brisket is especially popular among locals.

If you’re more in the mood for a quick lunch while reprovisioning in town, Thrive Foods Café & Marketplace, on Honey Harbour Road facing the LCBO, offers sandwiches, pastries, artisanal cheeses and frozen take-away meals for enjoyment back onboard. The ham and Brie sandwich is a favorite.

It’s a bit of a bike ride from the docks at the Honey Harbour Park Landing — around four miles each way — but Nicolas Restaurant on Honey Harbour Road is widely acclaimed for having the best pizza in the area. Located in a large grey-sided house with a sprawling wraparound porch, Nicolas is definitely a favorite among residents, so go early if you’re thinking about dinner on the veranda. The restaurant actually has a fairly diverse menu, but pizza is the specialty and that’s what most diners are there for. Eat guilt-free, since you can burn it all off on the bike ride back to the dock.

No matter what your taste, Honey Harbour has something to offer. With its perfect balance of modern conveniences and sheer natural beauty, this is one port of call that always manages to hit the sweet spot. Start planning now for that first post-COVID getaway and see for yourself what the buzz is all about. H

More Info

Georgian Bay Islands National Park

 705-526-8907 / PC.GC.CA/EN/PN-NP/ON/GEORG

Tourism Ontario

 ONTARIOTRAVEL.NET

Township of Georgian Bay

 705-538-2337 / GBTOWNSHIP.CA