Port of Call: Cobourg, ON

Experience Enchantment

A one-time summer refuge for wealthy industrialists, Cobourg, Ontario, continues to charm visitors with its carefree elegance, beautiful tree-lined streets and genteel, Victorian warmth.

by craig

ritchie

Toronto

Hamilton

Lake Ontario Cobourg

Cobourg

Lake Ontario

Chart Your Course

Headed to Cobourg? You’ll want these Canadian Hydrographic Service charts onboard: ■ 2054: Cobourg Harbour ■ 2058: Cobourg to Oshawa ■ 2059: Scotch Bonnet Island to Cobourg

One of the most enjoyable aspects of cruising the Great Lakes is seeing first-hand how history has shaped our lands and people. Every lakeside town has its own unique character and history — some linked to wars, some to pirates, some to industry and others to indigenous communities.

One notable port is Cobourg — a delightful and welcoming community on the north shore of Lake Ontario with an enduring waterfront heritage. With its fortunes built upon commerce rather than industry, Cobourg has always maintained an intimate link to the lake and its outstanding harbor, making the town as we know it today a truly remarkable port of call with much to offer visiting boaters.

Located about halfway along the lakeshore some 56 miles east of Toronto and 35 miles north of Point Breeze, Cobourg was initially colonized by United Empire Loyalists in the late 1700s. In 1818, the settlers officially named their village Cobourg in recognition of the recent marriage of Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld to Princess Charlotte Augusta of Wales.

With its outstanding harbor protected by a natural sand spit, Cobourg grew rapidly, incorporating

as a town in 1837 and with serious ambitions to develop further still. Although the world’s first steam railway had come into operation only 10 years earlier, Cobourg was already drawing up plans to build a railway of its own, connecting the town’s harbor with the extensive mining and timber resources located to the north at Rice Lake. Shortly after, scheduled steamship service brought regular passenger service to Toronto, Kingston and Rochester, further elevating the town’s fortunes and status.

It was the steamship service that introduced Cobourg to a growing number of ultra-wealthy industrialists from both sides of the lake, many of whom built elegant summer homes there. By the late 19th century, Cobourg was the place to see and be seen, where the well-to-do of the day escaped the daily grind and lived the good life sans souci — without a care in the world. Stately residences lining tree-lined streets spoke to Cobourg’s status as a respite for the affluent, and they continue to charm visitors today with their brilliant architectural details and period finishes.

The annual summer migration to Cobourg continues unabated, with tourism now ranking among the town’s most important economic drivers. All it takes is one short visit to understand why.

Cobourg is easy to spot from the lake; look for

the large white and blue water tower with the word “Cobourg” written on it in large block letters, which is clearly visible poking above the trees from at least eight miles offshore. If you’re approaching from the south or east, then simply head for the water tower and, as you approach the shore, watch for the silvery dome of the water treatment plant. The harbor entrance lies a short distance west of the dome and is marked by two piers: The eastern pier capped by a 40-foot-lighthouse with a flashing red light, and the west pier marked with a flashing green light. Depth through the entrance channel is dredged to a minimum of 12 feet.

Boaters approaching from the west will want to keep a sharp eye peeled for the lighted black and yellow buoy identifying Peter Rock, located roughly three miles west of the harbor entrance and about three-quarters of a mile from shore. Don’t even think about trying to pass north of this marker or you’ll promptly discover the surprisingly shallow ridge of granite that extends all the way to land. For safety’s sake, keep well south of the marker and wait until you’re more or less directly off the harbor before swinging the bow toward town.

First stop is to check in at the Cobourg Municipal Marina, a modern and welcoming facility which offers 70 transient slips for the use

2021 Event Calendar

■ June 18 – 19 Highland Games Victoria Park ■ July 1 - 4 Waterfront Festival

Rotary Harbourfront Park & Victoria Park ■ July 1 Canada Day Celebrations & Multicultural Festival

Victoria Park ■ Tuesday evenings in July

& August

Concerts in the Park Cobourg Bandshell, Victoria Park ■ Wednesday evenings in July

& August

Summer Music Series

Cobourg Bandshell, Victoria Park ■ July 10 Lakeside Car Show

Victoria Park

Canada Day Fireworks

■ July 10 Food & Music Festival King Street ■ July 17, July 31 & August 28 Movies in the Park Victoria Park ■ July 31 Cobourg Sandcastle Festival Victoria Beach ■ July 29 – August 2 Downtown Cobourg Sidewalk Sale King Street ■ August 13 – 15 Rotary Ribfest Victoria Park

Note: All dates tentative

Art Gallery of Northumberland

of visiting guests. Best of all, just about everything in town is located within easy walking distance of the marina docks, from Cobourg’s beautiful sandy beach to its charming heritage downtown and its multitude of restaurants, coffee shops, pubs and boutique shopping opportunities.

History and heritage Reflecting the importance of its waterfront, Cobourg’s historic downtown begins pretty much right at the marina. The entire downtown, and much of the surrounding residential area, has been designated as a Heritage Conservation District in view of its extensive and exceedingly well-preserved Victorian architecture. We’re not talking a few scattered buildings here and there, but entire streets that remain unblemished by time, giving visitors to Cobourg a rare opportunity to enjoy a truly unique and immersive experience.

Cobourg is an absolute delight for history buffs, with no less than four different walking tours that explore its vast range of stunning heritage properties. Full information on these walking tours, complete with detailed maps and information on the different buildings that you’ll see, can be downloaded from the town’s tourism website at EXPERIENCECOBOURG.CA.

Start your experience at the magnificent Victoria

Victoria Hall

Hall, located on King Street just two blocks north of the marina. Completed in 1860 and now listed as a National Historic Site, Victoria Hall stands proudly as the centerpiece of Cobourg’s downtown with its lavish neoclassical façade, Corinthian columns, pedimented portico and landmark clock tower. Beautifully restored over a span of 12 years, the building — designed by legendary architect Kivas Tully — is best known for its grand concert hall, which once hosted a ball for HRH Edward the Prince of Wales.

Today, Victoria Hall serves as home to the Art Gallery of Northumberland (AGN). Opened in 1960, the AGN boasts more than 950 pieces in its permanent collection, including works of national and international significance with a strong emphasis on Canadian artists. There is also a substantial collection of 20th century paintings, sculptures and works on paper, making a stop here essential to any visit. Exhibits change on a regular basis so there’s always something new to see.

You’ll also want to make a point of stopping by the Cobourg Fire Hall. Home to Cobourg’s fire department from 1883 to 1977, the building has been completely renovated inside and today operates as The Firehall Theatre. Home to the Northumberland Players theater group, it’s a great place to enjoy live performances all year round. Information on future performances can be found on the group’s website,

NORTHUMBERLANDPLAYERS.CA .

Sandcastle Festival

A number of local museums, including the Sifton Cook Heritage Centre and the Marie Dressler House, are also worth taking the time to explore. The festive spirit While the town of Cobourg quite rightly celebrates its proud heritage, residents put just as much effort into celebrating the present, with a full calendar of events and festivals that run through the year. It sounds incredible for a town of less than 20,000 residents, but Cobourg plays host to more than 150 separate events each year, most of them focused on the waterfront with the spotlight on food and entertainment.

You name it and chances are you can find it on the town’s annual event calendar. Each season brings all-new events, complemented by perpetual summer favorites. Come in June for the Scottish Festival and Highland Games, or the annual Waterfront Festival, followed by the Lakeside Antique and Classic Car Show, and the Food and Music Festival held in July. In August, locals will be preparing for Cobourg’s well-known Sandcastle Festival, along with Ribfest, Shakespeare in the Park and the ever-popular Movies in the Park.

Apart from a spirited Dragon Boat Festival held in the harbor, September brings the annual Harvest Festival and its enthusiastic celebration of all things edible. And just in case you haven’t

When You Go For all trip-planning essentials: NORTHUMBERLANDTOURISM.COM EXPERIENCECOBOURG.CA DOWNTOWNCOBOURG.CA

Marine Facilities

Cobourg is blessed with an excellent, municipally maintained harbor, a great modern marina, a thriving yacht club, on-call repair services and a well-stocked chandlery.

■ Cobourg Marina

COBOURG.CA/EN/MARINA.ASPX

905-372-2397 Cobourg’s municipal marina has 218 slips on fl oating docks and along a seawall, 70 of which are available for use by visiting boaters. Well protected and with plenty of deep water, the marina serves both power and sailboats. The marina’s main building offers bright, clean washrooms, hot showers, a coin laundry and bicycles for guest use, and, best of all, free coffee from July through September. Call ahead on VHF 68 or by phone at 905-372-2397 for reservations or slip assignment and directions. Facilities include fuel (both gas and diesel); pumpout; 20-, 30- or double 30-amp power throughout the harbor; water on all docks; free Wi-Fi; and an excellent launch ramp. There’s easy access to public transit, and the Cobourg beach is just a four-minute walk away.

■ Cobourg Yacht Club

COBOURGYACHTCLUB.CA

The yacht club sits next to the marina building on the north shore of the harbor. The clubhouse has a dining room and bar with a terrifi c view that’s open on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays through the summer.

■ Cobourg Canvas and Upholstery 905-373-4285 Located about two miles from the marina, Cobourg Canvas and Upholstery can come to your boat to repair damaged boat tops, covers, and interior and exterior upholstery.

■ Dean Marine 905-373-4169 Located about a block from the marina, Dean Marine is a well-stocked chandlery offering everything from navigation charts to marine hardware and fi ttings, cleaning supplies, electronics, gear, nautical clothing and more.

Downtown shopping

Farmers Market at Waterfront Rotary Park

packed on enough extra pounds already, stick around for October, where you can wash it all down with a visit to OctoBEER and sample some of the local craft favorites. Right through the season, the Cobourg Farmers Market serves up fresh and tasty fare on Saturdays Cobourg Concert Band from May through November. In true farmers market form, vendors feature fresh local produce, baked goods, preserves, meats and more, giving boaters an excellent opportunity to stock up the galley before heading home. Prefer a little retail therapy? Serious shoppers will want to make a point of checking out Saturdays on Second Street, held in June, and the annual Cobourg Sidewalk Sale in August for fun and unique buys. Or visit in September and join in the Northumberland Studio Tour (NORTHUMBERLANDSTUDIOTOUR.CA) to snag a great deal on stunning original artwork. Fans of live music will definitely enjoy their Cobourg experience, with free concerts presented at the famous bandshell at Victoria Park through the summer. There’s also the Cobourg Concert Hall in Victoria Hall, offering a wide variety of musical presentations all year round. If you’re in the mood for a movie, then head

Butter tarts

OM SUP

for the Loft Cinema, just a few minutes from the docks along the scenic boardwalk. The Loft presents a variety of classical music and indie films throughout the year, making a relaxing and rewarding way to cap a fine day of revelry. Something for everyone One of Cobourg’s top permanent attractions is its diverse shopping, providing rare opportunities to acquire the unusual and unique. That includes a wide range of antiques, original artwork, jewelry and vintage clothing. Most of the shops are located in the historic downtown, either on or within a block or two of King Street, the main drag that runs parallel to the lakeshore. Skip the chain stores and focus on the family owned private shops for the best stuff.

As you wander the downtown prowling for bargains, you can’t help but notice Cobourg’s enticing dining options. For great pub grub and local craft ales, it’s tough to beat The Ale House on Division Street, which serves up the best of both. The Buttermilk Café, located on King directly across the street from Victoria Hall, is a popular breakfast spot known for its fluffy pancakes. Craft Food House, just around the corner on Division Street, offers healthy, locally sourced fare.

Got a sweet tooth? Then head for Albert Street where, right behind Victoria Hall, you’ll discover

Cobourg Beach

Millstone Bread and some of the best handmade butter tarts anywhere. As a main stop on Ontario’s Kawarthas-Northumberland Butter Tart Tour (BUTTERTARTTOUR.CA), Millstone is said to bake the very best butter tarts in the province, if not the world! But don’t take our word for it — stop by and try one. Or three. Or just get a dozen and see if they make it back to the boat. Odds are, they won’t.

Dinner options in town are equally enticing. Choose between the Corfu Grill, The El Gastropub, The Matterhorn, Oasis Bar and Grill, the Cat and Fiddle, Shuck It or Castle John’s — all proven and popular spots with visiting boaters. Golden Chopsticks offers authentic Japanese cuisine if you’re looking for something a little different, while Cucina Urbana on Division Street offers traditional Italian favorites, a lovely wine list and an unrivaled view overlooking the harbor.

Once you’ve had your fill of great food, tasty drinks and shopping, enjoy a little down time on one of Cobourg’s excellent beaches. The big sand beach east of the marina is a family favorite, while the quieter, natural stone beach to the west of the harbor is a bit of a hidden gem that’s a terrific option for avoiding the weekend crowds. By mid-summer Lake Ontario is surprisingly warm, with both beaches being ideal for soaking up a few rays.

Looking to stretch your legs a bit more after

More Info

■ Arts and Culture Art Gallery of Northumberland: ARTGALLERYOFNORTHUMBERLAND.COM Cobourg Loft: COBOURGLOFT.CA Concert Hall at Victoria Hall: COBOURGBOXOFFICE.CA Marie Dressler House: MARIEDRESSLER.CA/DRESSLER-HOUSE Sifton Cook Heritage Centre: COBOURGMUSEUM.CA

■ Shopping, Food & Drink Downtown Cobourg: DOWNTOWNCOBOURG.CA

■ Activities Northumberland Trail: WATERFRONTTRAIL.ORG

a few days on the boat? You’ll be happy to learn that the Cobourg Marina is located along the Great Lakes Waterfront Trail. Enjoy a nice long walk or borrow a bike from the marina staff and explore a bit further afield.

Another option is to hit the water in someone else’s boat. OM SUP (OMSUP.CA) and Green Canoe Outfitters (GREENCANOEOUTFITTERS.CA) rent watercraft like kayaks and stand-up paddleboards for those looking to admire the town from a different perspective.

With so much to see and do, it’s easy to fall for Cobourg. With an outstanding marina, classical architecture, quiet tree-lined streets, great dining options and endless entertainment opportunities — including more than 150 events each year — this is one port of call that’s not to be missed. ★