Chautauqua County, NY

Land of

America’sGrape rapes Chautauqua County , New York: Bluffs, beaches, sunsets and grapes.

by Stephanie Schuckers Burdo

PHOTO COURTESY OF TOUR CHAUTAUQUA

Dunkirk Lighthouse

Lake Erie

Silver Creek Irving

Dunkirk

Erie Westfi eld

CHAUTAUQUA ChautauquaChautauqua LakeCOUNTY Jamestown

Along the eastern shores of Lake Erie, just past Erie, Pennsylvania, and a bit southwest of Buffalo, miles of vineyards line the escarpment that sweeps from beaches and cliffs to the Chautauqua Ridge. With a change in elevation from around 570 feet to 2,180 feet above sea level, the landscape is defined by a continental divide between the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence Seaway and the watersheds that lead to the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers and on to the Gulf of Mexico.

History was made along these shores: Once a gateway for explorers as well as the transportation of goods to the Ohio River Valley, site of the first gas well and gas-powered lighthouse, a now-quiet port once considered the most suitable point for the western terminus of the Erie Canal, and the home of a girl named Grace Bedell who convinced presidential candidate Abraham Lincoln to grow whiskers in order to look, well, more presidential. He did and won, becoming one of the most important presidents in U.S. history.

These shores that stretch for approximately 50 miles and form the northern border of Chautauqua County, New York, offer three very different points of entry. At the northern and eastern point, three launches tucked into the outlet of Cattaraugus Creek in the town of Irving provide entry to the surrounding Sunset Bay community. The popular summer beachfront destination resembles a vacation spot along the Eastern Atlantic with dunes, a sandy beach, beach clubs, kayak and paddleboard rentals and a community of vacation homes. Larger boats prefer the city pier at Chadwick Bay in Dunkirk with its boardwalk of boutique shops, ice cream, small bites and waterfront restaurants. More leisurely visitors, small boats and fishermen find the relaxed community at Barcelona the perfect spot for an afternoon stop.

Bemus Point on Chautauqua Lake

Lakeside Bed and Breakfast

Barcelona Lighthouse

Barcelona Harbor Good for medium-size boats, depth 5 feet or less in some spots

In 1829, the Barcelona Lighthouse was put into service beckoning ships to land near the Portage Trail, which ran about nine miles up the escarpment to Chautauqua Lake. Originally lit with oil lamps, in 1931 it became the first lighthouse in the world to be fueled by natural gas. A great storm devastated the area in 1844, permanently changing the shoreline, and the lighthouse was decommissioned in 1859.

Today, Barcelona is a Safe Harbor located in the Town of Westfield and a regular port for local boaters, sailors, fishermen and kayakers. The beach, once part of the original

The harbors: By land or by sea harbor, is a renowned vantage for watching sunsets. The lighthouse keeper’s cottage, privately owned for five generations, is open to the public as a museum and visitor center. Day trippers will find beaches, casual places to eat, including Westfield Fisheries (a local favorite for smoked whitefish), and a walking trail along the Chautauqua Creek tributary stream nearby. For an extended stay, the Barcelona Lakeside Bed and Breakfast commands a view of the pier, harbor and lake. To explore beyond the harbor, you will need transportation, whether on two wheels or four.

Dunkirk Harbor

Dunkirk Harbor Maximum boat length 60 feet, depth 10 feet

Near the City of Dunkirk, Chadwick Bay offers another Safe Harbor and Lake Erie access. Here, the Dunkirk Light signals boaters to the harbor and City Pier where boaters can tie up for a few hours or arrange an extended stay with Holiday Harbor Marina. Nearby, the Clarion Hotel offers waterfront accommodations and dining.

Located at Point Gratiot and open for tours May through October, the Dunkirk Lighthouse is a historical site as well as a working lighthouse and veterans museum. With a 61-foot tower and a 27-mile range, the light is one of the most prominent on Lake Erie. And, for lighthouse buffs, the original third-order Fresnel lens still shines its light across the water. Guided museum tours include a climb of the Dunkirk Lighthouse’s

Sunset Bay

spiral stairs (approximately 50 steps to the upper observation level), a walk through the restored 1800 lighthouse keeper’s home, and the surrounding lighthouse grounds. Numerous nautical and U.S. veteran artifacts are displayed throughout the site.

Sunset Bay Maximum length 35 feet, depth 6 feet or less

Sunset Bay near the Village of Silver Creek is Chautauqua County’s most popular port of entry, often drawing summer vacationers from Buffalo. Boaters can access the area via private and state-owned launches, with extended stay options and restrooms with showers. Nearby vacation rentals, a large sandy beach, paddleboat and kayak rentals, a beach club and restaurant provide multi-day activity and fun for families and groups.

Birding Thermal currents and flyways along Lake Erie, heavily forested areas, protected wetlands and open fields provide ideal conditions for migratory birds and bird enthusiasts. Notable trails in the region include Point Gratiot near the Dunkirk Lighthouse, locally known as a hotspot for beach glass as well as birding. Significant sightings include Orchard oriole, Whip-poor-will and over 30 species of warblers. While visiting in late August or early September, you might even catch the Monarch butterfly migration. Point Gratiot Park has ample parking, a playground, a picnic shelter and restroom facilities.

Point Gratiot Park

Day trips To explore much beyond the harbors, you’ll need some method of transportation. Located nearby, High Tyed Tours provides private, customized Vine Tyed Wine Tours to local wineries with pick-up and drop-off service.

Noble Winery

Leunsman Overview Park

Chautauqua’s Miller Bell Tower

Points of Interest

Barcelona Lighthouse

(Westfi eld); 716-326-2360;

BARCELONALH@PARKS.NY.GOV

Dunkirk Lighthouse

(Dunkirk); 716-366-5050;

DUNKIRKLIGHTHOUSE.COM

Grape Discovery Center (Westfi eld); 716-326-2003;

GRAPEDISCOVERYCENTER.COM

Lake Erie Wine Country

Trail: More than 20 wineries scattered over a 50-mile stretch of Lake Erie shoreline from Silver Creek, NY, to Harborcreek, PA; 877-326-6561;

LAKEERIEWINECOUNTRY.ORG

Chautauqua Institution

(Chautauqua); 716-357-6250;

CHQ.ORG

National Comedy Center

(Jamestown); 716-484-2222;

COMEDYCENTER.ORG

Portage Pies (Westfi eld);

716-232-4036; PORTAGEPIE.COM Specializing in small groups with less than six people, Owner Frank Tye is happy to accommodate requested stops through the region. The Chautauqua County Visitors Bureau and Lake Erie Wine Country also maintain lists of available transportation services.

A bit farther from the lakeshore, Luensman Overview Park offers a panoramic view of the Lake Erie plain, escarpment and vineyards. Located in the Town of Portland, near Brocton, the 70-acre overlook and mile-long wooded interpretive trail is a must-see stop when visiting the region, especially to see fall colors. On a clear day you can see the Buffalo Skyline and Long Point, Ontario. The park is open June through November 1 from 8:30 a.m. to dusk. Several viewing platforms, a large parking area, picnic pavilion, tables and grills, a well with hand-pump and restroom facilities are available.

The region is also home to America’s Grape Country, the oldest and largest Concord grape region in the world and the largest grape-growing region in the eastern U.S. Nestled along the narrow stretch of land between Lake Erie and the Chautauqua Ridge, 30,000 acres of vineyards fill the landscape among and between the beachfront communities and Victorian-era villages and towns. The sweet aroma of grapes permeates the air during harvest season, which begins in late August and continues through the end of October.

A trip to the Grape Discovery Center in Westfield will provide both a history lesson as well as an opportunity to taste local wines and grape juice. It features a gift shop stocked with many locally made products including wines and beers from Lake Erie Wine Country. Visitors can enjoy beverages from the tasting bar on the outdoor patio next to some vineyards. A family friendly exhibit area

National Comedy Center

Lake Chautauqua’s Chautauqua Belle

tells the story of more than 150 years of grape growing in the region. Plan for about an hour to view the exhibits. Though admission to the center is free, donations are graciously accepted.

Chautauqua Lake, western New York’s largest inland lake, lies just about nine miles over the Portage Road from Barcelona Harbor to Mayville with a change in elevation of around 850 feet. At 18 miles long, Chautauqua Lake is well-known for bass and musky fishing, sailing and boating, and as a summer residence for families from Buffalo, Cleveland and Pittsburgh. Chautauqua’s historical significance includes the Chautauqua Institution, a summer community for learning founded in 1879, and the City of Jamestown, birthplace of prominent birder Roger Tory Peterson, the author of more than 50 field guides, as well as Lucille Ball. Jamestown is also home to the National Comedy Center, which opened to great acclaim in 2018.

Plan a day trip in advance and include a stop at Portage Pies in Westfield. Open year-round, owners Connie and Rick Thayer bake up to 100 pies each day and often run out by noon, so call to reserve your favorite before you go. Featured flavors of the handmade pies include all kinds of fruit, made with locally grown produce, as well as favorites like chocolate, banana cream, coconut, key lime and peanut butter.

If history is your interest, be sure to stop at the McClurg Museum in Westfield, though check first to see if it’s open. The McClurg is home to the Chautauqua County Historical Society and houses genealogical records as well as exhibits on the area’s most notable residents, including William Seward and Grace Bedell. ★

Resources

Chautauqua County Visitors

Bureau (Chautauqua); 866908-4569;

TOURCHAUTAUQUA.COM

Dan Reed Pier at Barcelona Harbor (Westfi eld); 716-326-

6633; TOWNOFWESTFIELD.ORG

Hidden Harbor Marina (Irving); 716-934-4315;

HIDDENHARBORNY.COM

Holiday Harbor at Chadwick Bay (Dunkirk); 716-366-1774;

HOLIDAYHARBOR.NET

Sunset Bay State Marine Park (Irving); 716-934-2375; PARKS. NY.GOV/PARKS (reservations at

RESERVEAMERICA.COM)

Vine Tyed Tours: customized private tours through Lake Erie Wine Country; 716-680-0397