10 minute read
Port of Call: Baraga County, MI
Shrine of the Snowshoe Priest
Mt. Arvon
Indian Country fi shing
Baraga State Park
Keweenaw Bay
Pointe Abbaye
All across Michigan’s sprawling Upper Peninsula, self-isolation and social distancing are a part of life for the scarce population and visitors who enjoy the remote and rugged land. Surrounded on three sides by the Great Lakes Michigan, Huron and Superior, the U.P. encompasses about one-third of the state’s land mass, but is home to only 3% of its residents.
In Baraga County, to the west of the U.P.’s big city, Marquette, the Huron Mountains rise along the Lake Superior shore and mark a distinctive change in terrain, including awe-inspiring, ancient geological formations. The rocky, thickly forested land shelters more than a dozen named waterfalls. The shoreline — sandy in some stretches, dramatic and boulder-lined in others — encompasses two Lake Superior inlets: Huron Bay and the larger Keweenaw, with the neighboring villages of L’Anse and Baraga at its head.
This is a four-season destination for outdoor recreation and adventure: Fishing, hiking, biking, hunting, off-roading, snowmobiling, boating, paddling, waterfall and wildlife watching, photography and beachcombing. It can be as challenging or easy-going as desired. Tom Nemecheck, executive director of the Upper Peninsula Travel & Recreation Association, calls it “an accessible wilderness.” You might call it “just what the doctor ordered.”
THE SNOWSHOE PRIEST
Baraga County is home to Michigan’s largest and oldest Native American protected land, the L’Anse Indian Reservation of the Keweenaw Bay Indian Community. The Ojibwa (Chippewa) people lived here for centuries before missionaries and voyageurs arrived, beginning in 1660. The best-known of the missionaries is Frederic Baraga, S.J., who came to the area in 1843 and ministered to far-flung settlements all year-round, even in the depth of winter, traveling hundreds of miles on snowshoes. In 1853 he was elevated to bishop and moved to Marquette, but “The Snowshoe Priest” is remembered in place names and in a massive sculpture set on a high bluff overlooking Keweenaw Bay.
The 35-foot bronze likeness holds a 26-foot-long pair of snowshoes and a 7-foot cross, and floats on a cloud that is supported by five beams anchored by tepees. They represent his five main Catholic missions in Michigan, including the one at nearby Assinins, named for Chief Assinins, who is buried in the cemetery.
LAKE & COUNTRY TOUR
Tracy Barrett, former director of the visitors bureau who is now with the Village of L’Anse, recommends downloading maps and guides available at BARAGACOUNTY.ORG. The Lake & Country Tour points out 18 historic, natural and scenic stops along a route that begins and ends at the Waterfront Park in L’Anse. It includes remote Pointe Abbaye, for its beautiful views from the tip of the peninsula between Huron and Keweenaw Bays; Michigan’s highest peak, Mt. Arvon, at 1,979 feet; and a handful of waterfalls. A second map (also downloadable) identifies more than a dozen waterfalls, from Power House Falls to Canyon Falls, also known as the Grand Canyon of Michigan for its towering walls of rock.
While exploring the area, Barrett cautions that accessibility varies on lesser roads and trails; roads can be rough and require high-clearance vehicles. In some areas, four-wheel drive is recommended. Cell phone access is spotty and GPS unreliable; paper maps are necessary.
“There’s all kinds of adventure; you never know what you’re going to find,” says Nancy Haun, who grew up in Detroit and is now, with her husband, marking 20 years of exploring and appreciating “the awesome mountains, waterfalls, the streams, the rivers, the wildlife.”
“You can go to a waterfall and not see a soul,” she says. “You can spot moose. How can anyone get bored up here?”
A BIT OF HISTORY
In the 1870s, the L’Anse area evolved into a logging and lumbering center, producing millions of board feet each year and employing more than 600 men at Pequaming, an early Ojibwa settlement. In 1923,
Henry Ford purchased the operation and 40,000 acres to supply wooden parts, floorboards, panels for station wagons and shipping crates. Ford’s model town faded to ghost town status after World War II, but his gracious summer home (now available for rent) and some other residences remain as a reminder of the once-prosperous community.
In the 1930s, Ford also built a company town named Alberta south of L’Anse. Tidy homes still stand on streets named for trees, surrounding the sawmill that operated from 1936 to 1954. Visitors are welcome to visit the town and hike the land, which is now owned by Michigan Technological University and serves as a research and conference facility known as Ford Center.
The Baraga area also attracted Swedish and Finnish immigrant farmers, but it was a hard life, as seen at the Hanka Homestead Finnish Museum — a rare example of an original, historical, working class farm. The self-sufficient Hanka family built the log home and outbuildings, and lived there from 1896 until 1966. Not much changed after the 1920s, and that’s the world preserved for visitors to experience.
SOUVENIRS
The cozy village of L’Anse has some surprises in store. At The Main you can enjoy a cup of coffee and baked goods while you ponder the assortment of merchandise, which includes repurposed home décor and gift items, as well as women’s clothing and accessories.
Village Gift Store is a collective of 43 artists, craftsmen and makers of jewelry, clothing, home goods and food items launched by blacksmiths Payne Chassen and Bill Steinhardt. In warm weather months, the store hosts First Friday evenings with a featured artist and classes or events.
“It’s very easy to find our location,” Chassen says, “just look for the 40-foot-tall lighthouse painted on the side of the building.”
The mural, dreamed up by 11-year-old Rion Maki, was painted by local artist Bryan Welsh. The store, within eyeshot of Keweenaw Bay, also rents kayaks, canoes and beach bikes for day use.
Indian Country Sports is the supply source for the gamut of four-season outdoor activities, from camping, fishing and hunting to archery, snow and paddle sports. Ashley Engelhardt, daughter of owners Tammy and Kevin Engelhardt, says she’s happy to offer advice and hiking tips, reveal good fishing spots and give directions to waterfalls.
“There are so many trails, I still haven’t discovered all of them,” she says.
The sporting goods store, a landmark on the L’Anse waterfront, features a functioning 44-foot lighthouse.
LOCAL FLAVORS
Pasties — a meat and root vegetable pie wrapped in a flaky crust that was the meal of copper miners — is the unofficial food of Yoopers, and is available at diners, restaurants, bars and bakeries just about everywhere.
JUNE-SEPTEMBER Summer Concerts in the Park: Takes place at L’Anse Waterfront Park on Thursdays at 7 p.m.
JUNE Alberta Art & Craft Fair: A variety of U.P. artisans, craftsmen and musicians demonstrate and sell their wares on the grounds of the Ford Center.
Baraga County Lake Trout Festival: The Lake Trout Capital of the Great Lakes hosts a fishing tournament, family activities and contests, arts & crafts fair and music in L’Anse.
JULY Baraga Lumberjack Days: An Independence Day celebration with parades, street dance, games and fireworks over the bay.
EVENTS
4th of July Festivities: Old-fashioned games, decorated bike parade and family fun at Baraga State Park.
Copper Country Strawberry Festival:
Famous strawberry shortcake, arts & crafts, family activities and a parade in Chassell.
Aura Jamboree: Traditional acoustic music for listening and dancing on the grounds of the Community Hall of tiny Aura, founded by Finnish immigrants in 1914.
Maawanj’iding: Spectacular drumming, dancing, singing, food and crafts fill the three-day Keweenaw Bay Indian Community PowWow. AUGUST Baraga Beer Fest: Sample Michigan craft brews and wines at L’Anse Waterfront Park.
Heritage Day: Home and farm work demonstrations and traditions at Hanka Homestead Finnish Museum.
SEPTEMBER Harvest Festival: Fall fun for the family at Baraga State Park.
ATV/UTV Wilderness Waterfall
Adventure: A guided day trip through the Huron Mountains, visiting nine waterfalls and Mt. Arvon.
NOTE: Events are subject to change. Find more information at BARAGACOUNTY.ORG
L’Anse Concerts in the Park
Aura Jamboree
Hanka Homestead Finnish Museum
Village Gift Store
Craig Lake State Park
Pastie
Baraga State Park Kitchigami Tepee
Moose at Craig Lake State Park
Everyone has their favorite, and the debate about whether to eat them doused in ketchup or gravy will never be resolved.
Freshly caught Lake Superior fish is just about as popular. A sign at Carla’s Restaurant in Baraga, now in its 42nd year, guarantees that “The fish you eat here today, last night slept in Keweenaw Bay!” From the dining room overlooking those waters, you can choose fresh Lake Superior whitefish or lake trout deep-fried or steamed with a sprinkling of Carla’s special seasonings. Saturday night BBQ ribs and Carla’s Butterfinger ice cream pie are favorites. Nab a table on the deck and enjoy the view and a local brew.
The Hilltop Family Restaurant in L’Anse offers a full menu, starting with homemade toast at breakfast to from-scratch soups and comfort food dinners; however, it’s best known for the one-pound, glazed cinnamon sweet roll that’s been a specialty since the 1950s.
Also in L’Anse, locals and visitors rave about the Nite Owl Cafe’s home cooking, from hearty breakfasts to sandwiches and burgers, pizza on Tuesdays and the Friday fish fry. Save room for homemade pie. At Skipper’s Bar & Grill, dinner comes with a view of the bay. Choose from a rotating menu of international dishes, along with pizza, solid American fare and the specialty dessert: House-made spiked ice cream.
Tuesday is cruise night at the Baraga Drive-In, which has been scooping ice cream and serving burgers and more since 1956. Eat in your car or on the pleasant patio.
Enjoy this friendly, sheltered harbor at the bottom of Keweenaw Bay... adjacent to L’Anse bottom of Keweenaw Bay... adjacent to L’Anse Village waterfront park with a swimming beach, picnic area, pavilion and just steps beach, picnic area, pavilion and just steps away from the village.away from the village.
ELECTRICITY • WATER • PRIVATE BATHS W/SHOWERS PUMP-OUT • WI-FI • FISH CLEANING STATION
WWW.VILLAGEOFLANSE.ORG/MARINA
FRONT STREET L’ANSE, MICHIGAN (906) 524-6116(906) 524-6116
GIVE IT A REST
Camping options abound, including Baraga State Park overlooking Keweenaw Bay. In addition to its 95-site modern campground, the park has a mini cabin and a six-person tepee for rent.
Craig Lake State Park is an 8,400-acre wilderness with rough and rocky roads (high-clearance vehicles recommended). Wildlife sightings might include moose in addition to black bear, deer, beavers and loons. The property, originally owned by Frederick Miller of Milwaukee’s Miller Brewing Company, is dotted with lakes for non-motorized boating.
Forget the chain properties. Lodging is comfortable and locally owned, from a 100-year old log cabin to roadside mom-and-pop motels. Families and groups of up to 16 can rent the Henry Ford Bungalow, the auto baron’s 5,000-square-foot retreat in Pequaming, the former lumber mill village.
So if you need a dose of all-natural U.P. wilderness and four-season adventure, Baraga County is the prescribed destination. ★
RESOURCES
There several points of access to Keweenaw Bay and Lake Superior. See the list at BARAGACOUNTY.ORG, which includes boat launches at parks, as well as public and private marinas. The marina in L’Anse boasts a new facility with restrooms, showers, water hookup and Wi-Fi, and is adjacent to a public park.
Baraga Municipal Marina MICHIGANDNR.COM
L’Anse Village Marina VILLAGEOFLANSE.ORG/MARINA
Ojibwa Marina OJIBWACAMPGROUND.COM Witz’s Marina & Campsite WITZMARINA.COM
Baraga Visitor Info BARAGACOUNTY.ORG
Upper Peninsula Visitor Info UPTRAVEL.COM
