4 minute read
Wine Time
Winemaker Philosophy 101
Sharing a winemaker’s take on his craft, and tasting the results
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by Trevor Burton photography by Trevor Burton
We taste and savor
Going back hundreds of years, you arrive in the world of alchemy. The philosophers’ stone is a mythic alchemical substance capable of turning base metals, such as lead, into gold or silver. For many centuries, it was the most sought-after item in alchemy. A branch of this lore has survived to this day. It’s the magic of turning juice from pressed grapes into fine wine.
Hanover Park Vineyards is, to my knowledge, the only North Carolina winery to ever be showcased in France – specifically, in Paris and Burgundy. In Paris, it was served at an exclusive luncheon hosted by one of the city’s most celebrated chefs and, on the panel, the publisher of one of France’s premiere dining guides, Bottin Gourmand. In Burgundy, it was at a prestigious, Grand Cru winery. It can all be summed up in a quote from the visits: “Where in the United States is this Caroline du Nord?”
An observation – over the past few years there’s been a movement toward more powerful wine. Merely because of their “oomph,” the most powerful wines get more attention at wine tastings and competitions. So, as more wines vie for attention, wines are becoming increasingly powerful. the reason behind such great French recognition for his wines lies in his overarching philosophy.
“My wines are meant to be paired with food, not to be the most powerful thing you ever put on your palate,” he says. That came through for me with his special wine for that day, his 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon.
It goes back to that alchemy trick – the magic of turning juice from pressed grapes into fine wine. I once had a winemaker tell me that the secret behind fine wine is, “Start with great grapes and then don’t screw up.” So, let’s look at Helton’s grapes.
The Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were grown on some of the first vines the Heltons planted some 18 years ago. They were planted in North Carolina soil that Helton and a group of experts thought would produce prime grapes; they did. These are mature vines, and that showed through in the wine they produced.
There was also the care and attention that the wine got at the winery. The grapes were harvested in 2016 and the wine had just been released. The amount of gentle aging the wine had gone through – six years in specialty French oak barrels – is impressive.
Then there was a test of Helton’s philosophy regarding the wine’s aroma and taste. This was a nuanced wine. Not an ounce of “oomph” but with a complexity that made it one of the most satisfying Cabernet Sauvignons that I’ve had the pleasure to encounter.
Finally, came more proof. This wine was paired with what Amy Helton and her team had created in the kitchen. We paired the wine with braised short ribs in a wine-based gravy. Simple perfection. It’s no wonder the French were so impressed.
Along with three other courses and wines, this was my idea of a great meal – excellence made to look easy. Along with Michael Helton’s philosophy, there was thought that went into our lunch. The thought was simply understated but ever-present. And it didn’t hurt that the location was three rooms in an old farmhouse built in 1897 in the North Carolina countryside. It was a feeling of comfort, warmth, and relaxation, along with great food and those glasses of wine.
With philosophy to feed the mind with food and wine to delight the palate, this was a lunch to remember.
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Convenient location Adjacent to Petco & Target 10110 Northcross Center Ct, Suite 100 Huntersville, NC 28078 704-439-0600 www.CarolinasVetCare.com
Alycen Adams DVM Alisha Fennell DVM
Convenient location Adjacent to Petco & Target 10110 Northcross Center Ct, Suite 100 Huntersville, NC 28078 704-439-0600 www.CarolinasVetCare.com
Alisha Fennell DVM Alycen Adams DVM
Convenient location Adjacent to Petco & Target 10110 Northcross Center Ct, Suite 100 Huntersville, NC 28078 704-439-0600 www.CarolinasVetCare.com
Alisha Fennell, DVM Alycen Adams, DVM Tracey Ritzman, DVM DABVP
Alycen Adams DVM Convenient Location Adjacent to Petco & Target 10110 Northcross Center Ct, | Suite 100 | Huntersville, NC 28078
