ISSUE NO. 5
WINTER 2016
MIDWEST WINTERS! SAIL AWAY TO THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS SKI THE MIDWEST ENJOY WINTER STYLE
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Š 2016 LAKESHORE MAGAZINE All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying or other electronic methods, without prior written permission of the editor; except in the case of brief quotations embodied in the critical reviews and certain other non-commercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, please write to: editor@lakeshoremag.com
Cover Photographer: Patrick O’Connor
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CONTENTS FEATURES 10 | ESCAPE TO THE ISLANDS 22 | SNOW DAY STYLE 8 | READING NOOK 20 | SAIL AWAY 34 | APRÈS SKI IN EVERY ISSUE 3 | #LAKESHORELIFE 4 | CONTRIBUTORS 5 | EDITOR’S LETTER 6 | WINTER EVENTS
CONTRIBUTORS LINDSAY HUMES ART DIRECTOR PATRICK O’CONNOR PHOTOGRAPHER THE MOORINGS CASCADE MOUNTAIN BOYNE MOUNTAIN RESORT 4
EDITOR’S LETTER There are two ways to cope with winter weather in the Great Lakes Region: go outside and enjoy it, or get away to a warmer climate. No need to choose one or the other when you can do both. For this issue I’m sharing some of my family’s favorite ways to survive the winter. We love to ski, and when we can’t head out west, we find a bit of snow day adventure within a short drive of our Chicago-area home. I rounded up a few local spots to get outside and enjoy the snow and some reliable products to keep you warm inside and out. When we need a break from the cold we head to the islands of the Caribbean where we can indulge in the maritime pleasures that we miss when summer ends. I hope you enjoy seeing and reading about some of our favorite destinations and treasured memories. Wait, I thought of one more way to cope with winter: create a cozy spot and hibernate in your home. I admit to spending many days during
last winter’s polar vortex under a warm blanket with a good book and a pot of tea. Create your own reading nook with inspiration found in this issue and on our Pinterest boards. We’re already dreaming of spring. Please join us online as we see where the season takes us! You’ll find much more online at lakeshoremag. com (lakeshoremag.com) and on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest. And, as always, I’d love to hear your comments and suggestions for Lakeshore Magazine. Stay warm, friends!
ALICIA K. O’CONNOR FOUNDER + EDITORIAL DIRECTOR LAKESHORE MAGAZINE ALICIA@LAKESHOREMAG.COM
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WINTER EVENTS MICHIGAN ILLINOIS CHICAGO BOAT SHOW AND STRICTLY SAIL JANUARY 14TH – 18TH Chicago largest marine & outdoor sales event lands at McCormick place to help calm your cabin fever. In addition to watercrafts and RVs, the show features travel and resorts as well as many familyorientated activities to create a fun day for the whole gang. CHICAGO RESTAURANT WEEK JANUARY 22ND – FEBRUARY 4TH Actually happening over two weeks, Chicago Restaurant Week features more than 250 restaurants with prix-fixe sampling menus.
WINE ABOUT WINTER JANUARY 15TH | GRAND HAVEN Lose those winter blues as you sample wine and enjoy the works of local artists in downtown Grand Haven. Tickets available online. MAGICAL ICE FEST FEBRUARY 5TH - 7TH | ST. JOSEPH Artistry in ice will be on display all weekend in St. Joe’s as this ice carving festival returns to town for the 12th year. RETRO WEEKEND MARCH 4TH - 6TH | HARBOR SPRINGS You’ll be glad you held on to your vintage ski fashions when you hit the slopes at Boyne Highlands for a fun weekend in retro style.
WISCONSIN
CHICAGO ST. PATRICK’S DAY PARADE MARCH 12TH Don’t miss the annual dying of the Chicago River followed by the biggest St. Patrick’s Day parade and celebration in the Great Lakes Region. Slainte!
WINTER FEST JANUARY 30TH | WAUSAU This free family event features horse-drawn carriage rides, a snow slide, ice sculptures, and more throughout downtown Wausau.
SOUTH SIDE IRISH PARADE MARCH 13TH If one day isn’t enough, keep the celebration going with Chicago’s proud South Side Irish.
CELEBRATION OF CHOCOLATE FEBRUARY 19TH - 31ST | KOHLER Get away to the beautiful American Club Resort in Kohler for a chocolate-drenched weekend. Special overnight packages are available. MILWAUKEE ST. PATRICK’S DAY TROLLEY BAR CRAWL MARCH 12TH | MILWAUKEE Join the fun for the 4th annual St. Pats Bar Crawl in Downtown Milwaukee which hosted more than 700 revelers in 2015.
CASCADE MOUNTAIN RESORT 6
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MERINO THROW
THE LIVING GREAT LAKES
READING NOOK CREATE A COMFORTABLE SPOT IN YOUR HOME FOR READING A GOOD BOOK ON A SNOWY DAY
LEATHER OTTOMAN 8
TEACUP
BOOKCASE
TEAPOT
SIDE TABLE
ARMCHAIR 9
ESCAPE TO THE ISLANDS
WRITTEN BY ALICIA O’CONNOR | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK O’CONNOR Winter in the Midwest can be beautiful under a blanket of fresh snow … but to be brutally honest, we just sometimes need a break from the Polar Vortex. When thoughts turn to warm, gin-clear waters, white sand beaches, and coconutty rum drinks, there’s no better destination than the British Virgin Islands (BVI) where a week island hopping by way of a chartered sailboat is the perfect antidote for the raw, gray cold back home. 10
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Several years ago, my husband, an avid sailor and adventure travel enthusiast, convinced me to dip my toes in the aquamarine water that was our first BVI bareboat (meaning we were captain and crew) cruise. Five BVI trips and a lot of rum drinks later, we are seasoned cruisers and have enjoyed the trip by ourselves, with other couples, with our two kids, and with a small flotilla of friends and their families. We’ve become unofficial ambassadors for this particular adventure. If you’ve never considered it, read on, because it is about as far away from winter in the Midwest as you can get without speaking Tahitian.
THE BVI AND TORTOLA The British Virgin Islands are a cluster of more than 50 sparsely populated Caribbean islands located a short distance from Puerto Rico. Thanks to near perfect weather, gentle tradewinds, white sand beaches and easy line-of-site navigation, the BVI is known as a sailor’s paradise. Your adventure begins and ends on Tortola, the BVI’s largest and most populated island. The capitol city of Road Town is a colorful Caribbean town where traditional island culture (Reggae music and chickens in the street) mixes with the Yacht-Clubs-GoneWild anticipation of groups of vacationing sailors gearing up for a week’s adventure at sea. The waterfront is abuzz with charter boat operators, marina facilities, and provisioning stores. The whole place smells of jerk-chicken, rum and spices. This is where you’ll meet your boat and your skipper if you choose to hire one then shove off for a week (or two). While cruising you’ll want to explore Tortola’s many attractive anchorages and beach communities. 12
Here are a few favorites: CANE GARDEN BAY This stretch of unblemished white sand beach on Tortola’s north shore is a perfect destination for a full afternoon and evening on shore. The protected waters are ideal for swimming and windsurfing and you can rent kayaks and wind surfing equipment on the beach. Provisions are available at a small, but well-stocked grocery store in town. In the evening, the beachfront is alive with music and the smell of fried plantains, grilled seafood and the sound of chirping frogs. MARINA CAY It might be easy to miss this tiny island, but don’t. This postcard-perfect spot has a wide beach and warm, shallow waters ideal for spotting sting rays and sea turtles. The famous Pusser’s Grille opens onto the beach and serves plenty of cocktails featuring the BVI’s own Pusser’s Single Malt Rum. Hermit crabs of all sizes scurry over the rocks and sand to our kids’ delight. After dinner, take a walk up to the island’s peak for 360 degree views of the emerald waters and the nearby islands. For a preview, check out the webcam at the top of the hill. VIRGIN GORDA The name means “Fat Virgin” in Spanish and it’s important to understand that “Gorda” is considered a compliment in some Spanishspeaking cultures. Alright then. The island was named by early explorers who believed it looked like a large woman lying on her side. You can kinda see it at the right angle, but only if you really want it. My daughter said, “I guess I can see a lady, but how’d they know she was
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a virgin?” One wonders. THE BATHS The mysterious Baths at the southwestern tip of Virgin Gorda is a group of huge granite boulders that are oddly out of place in the area. Created by ancient molten lava, the rocks form caverns and secret pools to explore both above and below the surface. Steps and rope handrails follow a trail through the boulders from the main landing point to the hidden beach at Devil's Bay. This area is part of the BVI National Park Service and a limited number of day-use national park moorings are available. This is a popular anchorage so plan to arrive early before the moorings are all taken. Learn more here. A short hike up the hill from the beach you’ll find the Top of the Baths, an outdoor café where you can enjoy drinks and the BVI’s best conch fritters (in my opinion) with a sweeping view. While you wait, take a cooling dip in the pool or browse through the boutiques.
from yacht clubs from all over the world and the bar is crafted from the wreck of the sailing ship Ondine. Cocktails are served all day and throughout the evening at the Terrace Bar where you’ll enjoy a stunning view of the beach and yachts gently bobbing in the sound. When traveling with kids, we pick The Crawl Pub for a more casual pub fare and legitimately outstanding brick-oven pizzas. Pool tables, games, and sports on large TVs will occupy those members of your party who may decide to forgo the DJ dance party just outside. That’s where I’ll be, especially when DJ Smasher pulls out his 80’s mash-up. The Bitter End offers well-appointed showers and a market with provisions to restock before you sail on. But before you leave the North Sound, be sure to visit our favorite spot: Saba Rock.
A few hours sail along the Virgin Gorda coast to the north you’ll find my favorite BVI destination: The North Sound.
SABA ROCK Appropriately named because it’s little more that a large rock in the channel between The Bitter End and Prickly Pear Island, it would be easy to miss Saba Rock, but trust me, you need to visit. It’s hard to believe the amount of fun packed into this dreamy little island. Tie up at the dinghy dock or radio the friendly Saba Rock launch that will happily pick you up at locations throughout the North Sound.
THE BITTER END YACHT CLUB This place is exactly what you need after a few days at sea. It’s the pinnacle of civility and understated island luxury. Sigh. It’s perfection. The Clubhouse is a gorgeous, open-air dining room featuring steaks, seafood, and generous buffets for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The room is adorned with hundreds of burgees
At 5 PM each afternoon, along with thirsty sailors, several giant tarpon fish and an occasional hungry barracuda area drawn to Saba for Happy Hour. The Saba staff feed the fish in a most theatrical way for the rapt entertainment of their happy hour guests. Oh, and drinks are two-for-one between 4 and 6 pm making anything more entertaining, right?
NORTH SOUND
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THE MOORINGS 16
Afterward, head to the hammocks around the back of the hotel to recharge while you wait for a table in the dining room. You’ll want to stay forever. If you can convince your captain to stay longer, other North Sound locations worth a visit include The Fat Virgin Café where authentic West Indian fare is made fresh daily. The chicken roti, conch fritters, and burgers are favorites. You may even spot a famous local here. Sir Richard Branson who owns nearby Necker Island…the whole island…has been known to drop by on occasion. At the south end of the sound is Leverick Bay where colorful shops are set amid the restaurants and café and the whole area seems to be covered in fuchsia bougainvillea.
JOST VAN DYKE Jost Van Dyke is flawless. This remote Caribbean island has some of the most stunning beaches and views in all of the BVI. Start in Diamond Cay and plan to stay for awhile. DIAMOND CAY One of Jost’s three harbors…or harbours as the British call them…offers a full day and evening of adventure. Start by swimming and snorkeling around Sandy Spit, a tiny speck of an island off the cost of Green Cay and Little Jost Van Dyke that looks like something straight out of Spongebob Squarepants. (We travel with kids who notice such things.) Then pick up a mooring in the harbor and go ashore for a short hike to the storied Bubbly Pool, a
natural spa of sorts among the rock formations that fills with swirling, foamy sea water as the waves crash along the north shore. You’ll want to stay for hours, so be sure to bring some cocktails along. Your happy hour destination is the newish B-Line Bar on the Little Jost Van Dyke beach. Try their signature drink, Passion Confusion, while you enjoy a game of bags or the BVI’s classic ring game. Dinner is waiting at Foxy’s Taboo, a small but particularly good open-air restaurant featuring a unique take on the local specialties. Be sure to make a reservation early in the day because, as you’ll quickly see, it’s the only option in this anchorage. SOGGY DOLLAR BAR There are only a few places that you really mustn’t miss on a BVI bareboat. The Soggy Dollar bar in White Bay is one. There is no dinghy dock so you’ll have to beach your dinghy or, better yet, swim to shore with a pocketful of soggy dollars. Legend has it that The Painkiller, the official cocktail of the BVI, was created here, so you beverage choice is simple. This colorful beach bar is not exactly a well-kept secret, so arrive early if you want a mooring or be prepared to anchor. Take a look at their live webcam to see what’s happening right now.
IF YOU GO Five sailing trips to the BVI have taught me a few things. First, and most important, carefully select your charter company. The array of 17
options, both in charter operators and model of sailing or power yacht, can be intimidating. We’ve rented from a few different charter companies, but the one I can recommend without reservation is The Moorings for their helpful staff and, importantly, a well-equipped base in Tortola’s Road Town Harbour. PACK LIGHT No need to bring much with you. A few swim suits, flip flops, shorts, and cover-ups are all you need. It’ll all fit in a canvas carry-on bag that can be easily folded up and stored in a small stateroom closet. You can easily rent snorkeling equipment at the charter base although I do like to bring my own snorkel for, I think, obvious reasons. FIND YOUR FIT There are a number of ways to enjoy a sailing charter depending on your skill level and comfort zone. If you are an experienced skipper and like the idea of controlling every aspect of your cruise, you have the option of a bareboat charter in which you select your vessel from the fleet, captain it yourself, and provide all the provisions. If you like the idea of complete autonomy in your cruising itinerary but could use some help with the sailing, your charter company will provide a skipper for any number of days. Or if the cruise sounds dreamy, but you don’t sail, The Mooring offers crewed charters with an accomplished captain and chef to ensure your complete comfort. It’s like visiting a floating B&B. Not sure about your experience level? The kind folks at The Moorings will help you determine what type of boat you’re qualified to skipper. Just fill out this sailing resume and their staff will take from there. 18
ANTICIPATE A FEW COMPLICATIONS I’m not gonna lie. Getting from Chicago (in our case) to the BVI is not easy. Connecting flights, inconvenient airline schedules, oversold ferries and sketchy taxi services are all part of the adventure. And once you arrive, everything operates on “island time”, which can be infuriating when you’re tired and hungry from traveling all day. All you can do is be flexible and anticipate a few issues. Relax, Mon. You’re on vacation. It must also be said that even the most experienced sailor sometimes gets a little sea sick. If you are susceptible to motion sickness, or even if you think you’re not, pack Dramamine and any of the other motion sickness remedies you can find. Better to be prepared. Convinced? If not, just feast your eyes on these photos. Maybe sip a painkiller while you page through this section and you’ll be defenseless against the pull of the islands. Start here. Your adventure awaits.
THE MOORINGS
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SAIL AWAY PACK LIGHT FOR A WEEK IN THE ISLANDS
SUN GLASSES
SAFE HAVEN SWIMSUIT
WATERPROOF DIGITAL CAMERA
SAILING GLOVES
MASK & SNORKEL
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SHIRT DRESS COVER-UP
SAILOR SHIRT
NAUTICAL FLIP FLOPS
WEEKENDER BAG 21
BOYNE MOUNTAIN RESORT 22
SNOW DAY WRITTEN BY ALICIA O’CONNOR
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In the northern Midwest we are fortunate to enjoy four seasons of outdoor adventure. Abundant snow can be expected most winters and, though it may bring a few hassles, getting outside to enjoy the snow is one of the great pleasures of our region. If snow is in short supply in your neighborhood you are only a short drive to one of the many resorts where plenty of white fluffy powder can be found. Though we’re not known for mountains, the gently rolling hills and valleys of the Upper Midwest are ideal for beginning skiers and learners of all ages. The season offers many outdoor options - skiing, snowboarding, sledding, snowshoeing and more - and the end of the day brings the reward of a crackling fire and warm company. Here’s an abbreviated round-up of some of the ski hills in the Great Lakes Region. If we missed your favorite please tell us about it online.
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CASCADE MOUNTA IN RESORT
BOYNE MOUNTA IN RESORT 25
CASCADE MOUNTAIN RESORT 26
MINNESOTA
ILLINOIS
LUTSEN MOUNTAIN RESORT Lutsen Mountain on the shores of Lake Superior north of Duluth, Minnesota boasts the deepest and most reliable snow of the region - more than 10 feet in the average year. Whoa! And just in case the weather doesn’t cooperate, they can make snow. Lots of it. The resort is open daily from mid-November to mid-April and offers more than 1,000 acres of action with 95 runs and 8 lifts.
CHESTNUT MOUNTAIN Chestnut Mountain, tiny by ski resort standards, is a perfect option for beginners and the youngest skiers. In the nearby resort town of Galena, Illinois boutiques, galleries, gourmet bistros and plenty of wine await you for apres ski. The area is home to a lovely array of small resorts, inns and B&Bs. In addition to dinning and shopping, history buffs will enjoy the town’s historic sites including the preserved home of President Ulysses S. Grant. Chestnut Mountain ski hill features 19 trails over 220 acres. With a modest 475 foot vertical drop it’s perfect for newbies. Lessons are available for all ages.
Lodging options are plentiful with more than 3,000 rooms available in the area including rustic Northwoods lodges overlooking Lake Superior. LUTSEN MOUNTAIN RESORT Area - 1,000 acres Vertical Rise - 1,088 feet 95 runs 8 lifts Adult daily lift ticket price $67
CHESTNUT MOUNTAIN Area - 200 acres Vertical rise - 475 feet 19 runs 6 lifts Adult daily lift ticket price $52 on weekends, $40 on weekdays
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WISCONSIN The rolling hills of Wisconsin are home to more than 30 ski hills and many are near the state’s family resort towns. Treat yourself to a hearty dinner at one of Wisconsin’s unique Supper Clubs after a day on the slopes. GRANITE PEAK AT RIB MOUNTAIN This resort in central Wisconsin near Wausau and a short drive from Milwaukee, Madison and the Twin Cities features varied terrain with sleep chutes, long groomers, mogul runs and even 5 terrain parks for thrill seekers. CASCADE MOUNTAIN With its close proximity to Wisconsin Dells, the fun is just beginning when the lifts close for the day. Lodging packages are available at Dell’s resorts where families can enjoy indoor water parks, spas, and a wide variety of dinning and entertainment. GRANITE PEAK AT RIB MOUNTAIN Vertical Rise – 700 feet 74 runs including 3 mogul runs 10 lifts 5 terrain parks Adult daily lift ticket price $58 or $68 to ski until 9 pm
CASCADE MOUNTAIN Area – 160 acres Vertical rise – 460 feet 34 runs 9 lifts Adult daily lift ticket price $50 28
CASCADE MOUNTAIN RESORT 29
NORTHERN MICHIGAN The mitten state knows snow sports. Just ask any Michigander. With so many options it wasn’t easy to select just a few. BOYNE MOUNTAIN Often called the crown jewel of Michigan’s winter sports scene, Boyne Mountain is the largest and most well-equipped ski resort in the state. Every imaginable option for enjoying the outdoors can be found – skiing, snowboarding, cross country, snowshoe trails, even zip lining and horseback riding are offered. For those who prefer indoor pursuits, the area boasts beautiful lodges with spas and water parks. Lodging options include a range of hotels, rental homes and ski-in-skiout locations. Nearby, the resort towns of Harbor Springs and Traverse City offer abundant shopping and dining options. BOYNE MOUNTAIN RESORT Area – 415 acres Vertical rise – 500 feet 60 runs 7 terrain parks 10 lifts Adult daily lift ticket price $81
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PHOTO: GERRY BUCKEL 31
BOYNE MOUNTAIN RESORT 32
SOUTHWEST MICHIGAN Southwestern Michigan’s ski hills, though small compared to their Up North relatives, provide a perfect spot for families and beginners to enjoy a day on the slopes. And you can’t beat the proximity to so many of Michigan’s lovely coastal towns. Bittersweet and Timber Ridge Resorts, just a short drive from Holland, South Haven, and Grand Rapids, offer quick access to snow day. And how could I resist including this Swiss-themed destination? Swiss Valley, tiny but so close to St. Joseph, Michigan City and South Bend, deserves a brief mention for the hot spiced wine and other après ski cocktails at the slop-side Chalet alone. BITTERSWEET RESORT
TIMBER RIDGE SKI AREA
Vertical Rise - 350 ft. 20 runs 7 lifts Adult daily lift ticket price $43 on weekends, $34 on weekdays
16 runs 2 terrain parks 8 lifts Adult daily lift ticket price $39 on weekends, $29 on weekdays
SWISS VALLEY Vertical Rise - 225 ft. 11 runs 3 lifts + 4 tow ropes 2 terrain parks Adult daily lift ticket price $40 on weekends, $30 on weekdays
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WOOL BLANKET
TARTAN MUG
NORDIC SKI SWEATER
NAUTICAL FLASK
APRÈS SKI
AFTER A DAY ON THE SLOPES, SETTLE IN FOR A COZY EVENING BY THE FIRE WITH A HOT TODDY AND A WARM SWEATER 34
MAD BOMBER HAT
PENGUIN FLASK
FAUX FUR SNOOD
JOAN OF ARCTIC BOOT
SNOWCAP SWEATER 35
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