INTRODUCTION to authenticity
AUTHENTICITY BY DESIGN Retail Access Case Study
THE ART OF CRAFT NOSTALGIC DREAMS HERITAGE OF A MODERN AGE
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THE LIBRARY
VOICE
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Introduction to Authenticity
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The art of craft in luxury brands
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Authenticity by design
Nostalgic dreams: a 1970s kopitiam juxta- Retail Access Singapore posed with modern Sin- new office gapore Heritage for a modern age: Burberry
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CASE STUDY
Editors: Liam Yeo - lyeo@retail-access.sg Lakhena Tan - ltan@opend.sg
AUTHENTICITY There is an open secret that is staring us in the face And it is time for us as marketers to own up to it. We have reached an inflection point in our careers. And it is not just about our jobs and our line of business. This a defining moment in our global history where the trajectory of culture, consumer lifestyles and the very fabric of life seems to be twisting backwards towards the past. It is only our trust in the gyroscopic compass of our smartphones that makes us believe that we are futureforward.
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As global branding and retail professionals, we are today first-hand witnesses, and beneficiaries, to the postmass consumerist age taking shape before us. For our calm, icy-cool and god-like predecessors; the advent of mass production brought them the miraculous world of plenty-and the absolute necessity of mass branding and marketing to ward off the threat of mass commodisation. “TODAY YET AGAIN WE ARE CALLED AS MARKETERS TO WARD OFF THE THREAT OF COMMODISATION. “ But this time our tried-and-tested communication tools are failing us.
OUR ERA:
OURS TO SOLVE
A CRY IN THE FLUX OF SIMULATION
All this the result of our growing awareness that all information, as well as the messages we send out, have become regarded at best, cheap and at worst, distrusted and unloved. Confidently equipped with “genuine” opinions to guide choice–consumer purchase judgements on what is considered “fair value” has radically shifted. Today, whether one fashions a pair of shoes or a can of pasta--the average city dwelling consumer will probably be assessing our creations in terms of design-technique, ingredient provenance and the process of its production. But what we are witnessing is not just a call for greater transparency or just a trend towards sustainability and naturalness, but also A GENUINE CRY FOR HELP from our consumers. It is a plea for relief from what the Economist calls “the tyranny of choice”. But today what we face is the emergence of the additional “TYRANNY OF OPINION”.
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Simply put, what consumers want today is the assurance that the products they are being offered are genuinely good for them. Not by more marketing nut from being able to GET A SENSE OF THE REAL.
What some consumers are already waking up to is this FURTHER CONFUSION BROUGHT ABOUT BY THE CONSTANT STREAM OF MIND-BOGGLING CONFLICTING-GENUINE/UNREAL- SOCIAL RECOMMENDATIONS on the social networks and reviewing systems that we can no longer ignore or dismiss as electronic spam. It is what the previous Pope--the Vatican has been a keen social barometer--identified (as quoted by the New York. Times, 2011) that in an age of digitized voices and personalities: “inevitably poses questions not only of how to act properly, but also about the AUTHENTICITY OF ONE’S OWN BEING.” And on ths point, even the agnostic, left-wing intelligensia agree. Edward Docx, the associate editor of Prospect magazine, wrote in 2011 how because the online world had become our social reality, there is today: “a universal yearning for some kind of offline authenticity. (and that) we desire to be redeemed from the grossness of our consumption, the sham of our attitudinising, the teeming insecurities on which social networking sites were founded and now feed. We want to become reacquainted with the spellbinding narrative of expertise.”
Ours is the era of the ever-changing and fragmenting, trans-nationalhyper-local consumer segmentation; that for a fee some research consultancies today even provide us access to as “living” digital avatars. The era of offshore built-to-order manufacturing, 3D printing and RFID-enabled automated inventories mechanically beating to the throbbing 24-7 digital heartbeat of internet commerce. An age of seductive hyper-transparency that results in data overload and informational nonsense. Of entertaining, meaningful and helpful marketing communication rather than ephemeral slogans; Of savvy-cynical consumers-citizen connoisseurs- cosmopolitans- social packleaders- demanding more from brands. And then some, more. VOICE #1 p.3
THE ECONOMIC VALUE OF AUTHENTICITY It is no doubt then why we see our supermarkets today taking inspiration from the past to add experts behind the counter to offer up advice. For there is definitely a sense of certainty one gets from the past era of informational scarcity when we trusted the guidance of the town green grocer, butcher or shoe maker for the tastiest choice of vegetables for soup, cut of meat for dinner and the most comfortable and durable shoes for working the fields. “BUT ECONOMICALLY, HOW DOES THIS NEED FOR A SENSE OF THE REAL, OR ANTHENTICITY ARIS AND BENEFIT CONSUMERS?” Pragmatically speaking, we surmise that sensing authenticity for the consumer has2 values: 1- One by which to stop consumers from making the wrong choice 2- A positive value which affirms the social-psychological suitability of their product-service selection. In other words, as we experience information overload at work; WHAT WE AS CONSUMERS DON’T NEED IS OVERLOAD when we are paying to have work done for us- being served-doing our shopping-or being entertained. SENSING AUTHENTICITY means that they can be assured that the product or service is the best one for them without having to sieve through the informational “spin”. ULTIMATELY, IT MEANS A GREATER RELIANCE ON NONVERBAL, VISUAL, DESIGN ASPECTS TO PERCEIVE TRUST AND ADDED-VALUE.
TOP AUTHENTIC SPACES
An increasingly wealthy society of Asian consumers is younger than ever, and these hip young things are looking for an increasingly authentic experience - a sense of the real that connects them with the places they have travelled. These spaces are truly authentic in their own way - some hark back to the past, some make us reflect on the future, all are inspiring and have a emotional story to relate.
SHANGHAI FILM MUSEUM, CHINA A celebration of China’s film industry heritage The Shanghai Film Museum recently opened as a temple for Chinese film aficionados who want to learn about the evolution of Shanghai’s film history. Created by award-winning design and architecture agency Coordination Asia, their vision was to create a unique museum experience which connects the past, present and future. Located inside a former film studio in Shanghai’s downtown , Xujiahui - the location couldn’t be any more appropriate - the 15,000m2 space includes memorabilia, costumes and film clips as well as over 70 interactive installations and 3,000 exhibits.
FARINE BAKERY, CHINA Contemporary Chinese design working with an authentic French flavour Farine offers an authentic French boulangerie experience to an increasingly globalised Chinese population. Designed by architectural duo Lyndon Neri and Rosanna Hu (Neri & Hue), Farine brings a contemporary design to house an authentic French eating experience. Their stunningly designed bar is by Ferguson Lane in Shanghai. Retail Access loves the mix of past, present and future in this building. VOICE #1 p.4
ONCE UPON A TIME ICE CREAM SHOP, THAILAND Indulge in sweet dreams with a retro feel Located in Hua Hin - the popular beach resort 200km south of Bangkok, Once upon a time is a beautiful ice cream parlour that blends a vintage vibe with Willy Wonka style quirkiness. The space is modern and decadent with the sea side being very evident throughout. Created by Bangkok-based MADA Design Factory, ‘Once upon a time’ is a pure and whimsical concept that works beautifully.
CHYE SENG HUAT HARDWARE, SINGAPORE Hip new ‘heritage’ style coffee house in Singapore’s Little India Singapore’s hottest new addition to its burgeoning coffee scene, on Tyrwhitt Road, is named in honour of the heritage of the buildings around the area. Chye Seng Huat Hardware is much more than just a coffee shop. Designed in a modern industrial style that pays homage to its heritage, the space is light, airy and fresh.
THE RAISON D ETRE
Marketers worldwide, especially those catering to the premium end of the market have undoubtedly caught on to this wind of change. But such is the speed of cultural spread today and the progress and stressors that globalisation has brought, that even here in Asia Just as we witness Selfridges’ No Noise initiative and the meteoric rise of Denmark’s Noma, a restaurant described by the Spectator as “the supreme example of ‘localism’”, so we also note the end of Chinese desire for “monogram luxury” and the Chinese demand for transparency in the face of chronic food and safety scandals.
KEY TAKEAWAYS Authenticity is a real trend
SAVOUR THE TASTE OF LOCAL ASH Besides being influenced by the precedent set by El Bulli, Noma is a leading advocate for sourcing locally and being a proponent of advocating local produce, flavours and traditional Nordic food.
ESSENTIALIST MINIMALISTIC SHOPPING It’s essentially going back to the basics of function-limited choice for Selfridges’ “No Noise” retail experience a quiet, meditative zone to shop. Brands from Marmite to La Mer stocked products minus the trademark names from their packaging.
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EVEN MIDDLE-CLASS CONSUMERS ARE ALSO RESPONDING IN KIND IN THE FORM OF PREFERENCES AND DEMANDS FOR AUTHENTICITY.
Walk along the streets of Bangsar, near Kuala Lumpur; Haji Lane and Jalan Besar in Singapore or indeed the many luxury-priced multi-label boutiques popping up in Shanghai and Beijing - and one sees independent boutiques with raw interiors and “cult” fashion scarred by the edgy, urban realities they reflect.
Simplicity, authentic experiences and provenance are key differentiators for brands The time to act is now >> Discover our work >> To apply authenticity in your vision, work, retail experience, get in touch with us meetus@retail-access.sg
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AUTHENTICITY BY DESIGN
CASE STUDY
If authenticity is already becoming one of the default aspirational values of Asia’s emerging middle class; the challenge for luxury and premium brands to differentiate from one another has become all the more acute. For da paolo Gastronomia, a retailer cum eatery with a speciality in freshly-made, take-home gourmet foods for the timepressed, discerning Singaporean consumer; and Retail Access Asia their recent collaboration on the full retail design of their PasarBella store was an exercise in strengthening the utility of authenticity beyond just the aesthetics. True to its offerings- da paolo Gastronomia design identity centres on authenticity with a modern touch.
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Based on a chain-wide retail audit, Retail Access and da paolo Gastronomia found that although interest in fresh gourmet offerings was strong among affluent, well-travelled Singaporeans:
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Few of them understood da paolo Gastronomia’s unique gourmet takehome offering instinctively just by looking at the store
Singaporean consumers also had difficulty understanding that the food in the chiller was freshly made
And psychologically speaking, some were probably intimidated by the unique sale-by-weight system that had become a thing of the past in the modern-trade dominated retail sector
Rather than tackling the issues in silos, da paolo Gastronomia and Retail Access took a 360-degree approach from the point of view of the actual, typical Singaporean shopper. Most radically and importantly was the decision to focus the design on the insight that “freshly handmade” was a valued symbol of authenticity for the locals. Whereas before the authenticity focus was on the staff-assisted weighing stations; the store redesign brings the once hidden kitchen, centrestage.
EXPERIENTIAL OPTIMISATION AESTHETICS, INFORMATION AND SERVICE As the curtain was raised for the opening, it was a living authenticity that customers experienced as they soaked in the “live” crafting performances of the pizzerio and pasta chef with its connotations of expert technique and the finest ingredients. The journey of discovery that awaits customers has also become much more personal-private and approachable. Instead of having to have the food weighed, it is now self-serviced; something which Singaporeans implicitly understand and are familiar with. The selections are already weighted and packaged or sold in slices (for e.g. for their pizza).
Combined with the effect of the design of the signages through to the textured, raw wood panelling and trays that display the food--da paolo Gastronomia at Pasarbella is now teeming with delighted Singaporeans excited at the prospect of sharing authentic gourmet food in the comfort of their homes.
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Simply put, what consumers want today is the assurance that the products they are being offered are genuinely good for them. Not by more marketing nut from being able to GET A SENSE OF THE REAL. VOICE #1 p.7
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the
lessons
Authenticity is a complex cultural code
Authenticity is at its most powerful, implicitly expressed and experienced
With strong brand commitment, authenticity can be enhanced to boost sales
To migrate the authenticity of a brand experience from one market to another-- the experience needs to be essentialised, translated and applied through a decoding of local consumer culture and shopper behaviour
Although product communication is important, nothing is as powerful in building authenticity for the brand and products as real-life. ritual, theatrical-like spectacle and experience in store
Brands committed to the authenticity and quality of their offerings are best poised to commercially benefit from providing the right, most optimised staging post from which to engage with their customers
To apply authenticity in your vision, work, retail experience, get in touch with us: meetus@retail-access.sg VOICE #1 p.8
THE ART OF CRAFT IN LUXURY BRANDS Craftsmanship and quality are one of the essential dimensions of a ‘luxury’ product. It elevates a functional product into an art form high above simple great-design. But with quality mass production available to all brands, how many brands can still boast of true craftsmanship? Is the art of craft dying, or is it an essential part of a luxury brand’s DNA? Hermès, that bastion of elegance and style, recently held a worldwide tour of its artisans, to present their ‘savoir faire’ in silk scarf printing, handbag stitching and the crafting of luxury jewellery. It was called ‘Hermès Craftsmanship’. Perhaps a marker of how the brand has distinguished itself in a crowded market place. In fact, The Bastion of Fashion, reports that there is; “an advertising war among luxury groups to show off the craftsmanship behind their brands”. In an age where consumers are increasingly sceptical about brands, as well as
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DO LUXURY BRANDS TODAY STILL FAVOUR CRAFTSMANSHIP OVER MASS PRODUCTION?
streets of the world, the luxury market is really using their heritage as artisans and craftsmen to demonstrate their authentic design and production. For example, Gucci have held over 100 ‘artisan corner’ events including one at Bloomingdale’s department store in New York where customers could watch craftsmen at work. A recent survey by the Luxury Institute revealed that 40% of wealth consumers, craftsmanship is only a short way behind price and quality, and for older customers that rises to 51%. The label ‘Made in Italy’ however, may not always be what it seems. Many Italian textile producers are sending work abroad, for commercial reasons. But as consumers demand the behindthe- scenes view of the artists at work, luxury brands will be forced to look into new channels. LVMH recently purchased a highend Italian wool, cashmere and textile producer + retailer, Loro Piana. Some analysis report that this is a vision into the future - strategic partnerships that breathe life and cash into fifth and sixth generation producers and give the brands that can afford it the ultimate credibility. Prada go to great lengths to demonstrate this commitment to craft in their annual report. Their average craftsman has been with them twenty years, they have just 11 hand-picked suppliers in the UK and Italy.
So while people still believe they are buying into the quality and craftsmanship luxury brands will continue to grow. The big luxury brands are clamouring to demonstrate their art to their consumers, and this will be a trend that trickles down to more niche brands. Watching the artist at work is nothing new, and is a strong weapon in the war against mass production. >> Follow this link to access more articles
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NOSTALGIC DREAMS
A 1970s KOPITIAM JUXTAPOSED WITH MODERN SINGAPORE Sinpopo -in colourful Katong, Singapore- is a stellar example of the retro-cool tidal wave that is currently sweeping Singapore design. It is styled around a 1970s kopitiam (coffee shop). As a world of coffee-lovers, the authentic design takes us back to a time of lesser consumerism, where consumption was less conspicuous, and this is the atmosphere that Sinpopo have focused on. It is a far cry from the sleek minimalism that sister company Awfully Chocolate is renowned for island-wide.
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The 1970s in Singapore was a period of remarkable growth the coutry’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) experienced annual double-digit growth, but the authentic city was still very much evident. For many, it was a time of relative and luxurious simplicity - hazy filled days where our media consumption was limited to evening television and radio. The name Sinpopo is tribute to the notorious nightclub on nearby Joo Chiat.
Sinpopo creates nostalgia from the moment you enter. A superretro 1970s television is at the entrance to the eatery. An abundance of vintage exhibits and nostalgic Chinese music twinkles away in the background. A startling contrast against the modern metropolis churning away outside. A comforting paradox harking back to a bygone era, drawing us in to sample old-school street desserts like ais bor (ice ball), written up on neat paper menus for clientele to write their orders on. The vivid colours and antique features take both Katong locals and tourists back to an authentic Singapore that existed before the skyscrapers and modern life transformed the landscape and culture.
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HERITAGE FOR A MODERN AGE BURBERRY Burberry is a brand that plays on its heritage but embraces the future generation of millennial consumers who are looking for authenticity and heritage from the luxury products they buy. It’s Creative Director and soon-to-be CEO, Christopher Bailey, is acutely aware of consumers’ desire for truly authentic heritage pieces as well as has an intelligent insight into its youthful, digital-savvy audience. It’s motto ‘Prorsum’ coined in 1901 means ‘forward’. The Burberry brand is 157 years old. Founded in the UK by a 21 year old dressmaker, Thomas
Burberry, with one small shop, today it is a global luxury fashion brand with a total of 533 stores worldwide. Last year Burberry’s total revenue was £2 billion, and retail was up an incredible 12% year on year.
This is in no small part down to it’s understanding of its global consumers desire for genuine craftsmanship and heritage pieces. Lucy Handley in Marketing Week, identifies some of its strengths: “Simplicity with a twist”. Early on the business focused on its outdoor attire, and to this day the trenchcoat and umbrellas are staples of its range, yet evolving each season. They have been modernised for a younger and affluent audience who desire a customized version of the heritage pieces and can order personalized coats, umbrellas and bags. “Tell tales”. What is the story of the brand? As its continued focus on classics attests, Burberry is not afraid to trade on its history. It uses up and coming, and often aristocratic models who have stories behind them. This storytelling is absolutely key to the brand’s success. Burberry
understands its audience and how they engage with brands via content. During London Fashion Week, Burberry was the most mentioned brand on social media. With almost one million Instagram fans, and 2.3 million twitter followers, new launches use social media extensively. Unlike many traditional fashion houses which are still not engaging with their audience effectively via digital or social media, Burberry views digital as essential to its growth. It has created an aspirational online shopping experience to appeal to a young generation, who are, of course, used to purchasing and perusing online. The Burberry flagship store in London’s Regent Street aims to recreate the online consumer experience, with music, digital images, and comfy sofas where you can settle down to pay your bill. As Christopher Bailey, the firm’s chief creative officer, tells Jess Cartner-Morley in the Guardian: “We designed it like that because when you’re shopping at home online, you are on the sofa with your credit card. You don’t stand up and queue”. By merging digital with the in-store experience it creates a seamless and holistic relationship with consumers. Their in-demand unique personalisation service - customised bags, accessories and outerwear - are taking up their sales a storm. We are sure Thomas Burberry would approve. VOICE #1 p.11
The Library
47 Keong Saik Road Singapore >> Follow this link to access more articles
A SPEAKEASY WITH SERIOUS STYLE Styled as a shop that resembles a library, The Library is a cocktail bar that is inspired by the New York speakeasies of the Prohibition Area but is reinterpreted to appeal to a contemporary clientele of cocktail afficionados. Located in a row of restored heritage shophouses in the increasingly fashionable Keong Saik Road area of Singapore’s Chinatown. It recognises that its discerning clientele are increasingly shunning logos, it avoids overt publicity and is not active on social media.
Tapping into our desire to be part of our global history and create a story behind the places we visit, the Prohibition era is a time synonymous with style, decadence, gangsters, secret liaisons and the illicit consumption of alcohol – making cocktails highly desirable, exciting and unattainable. Jazz music blossomed – it’s smoky, sultry tones perfectly fitted the era. Books like F Scott’s Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby, romanticised the era even more.
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MAKE SURE YOU VE GOT THE PASSWORD.....
To give a truly authentic experience, The Library requires a password to enter. It’s a fun, tempting and whimsical space designed to recreate the speakeasy style. A secret den, featuring bolted copper tables, colours are warm and red-hued and evoke the era. Inspired by the New York speakeasies of the Prohibition era, this fun and playful place is whimsical and never takes itself too seriously. In stark contrast to the authentic design, its cocktails are trenddefying and playful. It has generated quite a buzz. The-Shrub-A Dubck cocktail comes in a tiny bathtub with a side of rubber duck.
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AFTER FEW YEARS IN ARAB STREET, LET’S MOVE TO CHINATOWN !
RETAIL ACCESS ASIA 52 Craig Road Singapore
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Redbull Flugtag Singapore Sentosa VOICE #1 p.14
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