OC United Way “Taking Flight”

refreshing tofu-skin salad. Top-notch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$

LITTLE SISTER

This Irvine Spectrum spot is an XXL bistro to older sister shop LSXO. Chef-partner Tim Vuong musters a team that pulls off a bigger menu, bigger digs, and a bigger profile with ease. Find proven faves—the overstuffed Viet crepe and the Shaky Shaky Beef— plus new lunch porridges and banh mis streaming out of the kitchen to a bustling dining room. Vintage rap tracks and a crackerjack bar keep the vibe lively. 896 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-800-8798. $$$

MEIZHOU DONGPO

Good seating, engaged service, and touches of elegance elevate this classy Sichuan dining room, a retool of a 6,000-square-foot Marie Callender’s in bustling Culver Plaza. Access is easy, and plentiful parking is free. Beyond that, it’s all about the Beijingstyle roast duck (whole, $77; half, $40), meticulously sliced into petals of tender meat crowned with crackling amber skin, for rolling into thin crepes.

Weeks of aging, drying, and lacquering coax out heady flavors. Spicy values include dan dan noodles and country-style sliced pork. 15363 Culver Drive, 949-433-5686. Beer and wine. $$$

PAUL MARTIN’S AMERICAN GRILL

A major player at the Spectrum in Irvine, this inviting 295-seat venue offers a plain-spoken, single-page carte of highly seasonal American dishes. Sunday

dinner deal on Prime rib, and Monday $65 wine dinner for two. 534 Spectrum Center Drive, 949453-1144. $$

PORCH & SWING

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2021

This delightful indie serves a “taste of Charleston” starring original riffs on American classics and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Must-try dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$

PUESTO

San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson

Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577

Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. See Anaheim and

Huntington Beach locations. $$

ROBATA WASA

From the wizards behind popular Wasa sushi comes this sleek, authentic izakaya at the Spectrum, ideal for noshing Japanese comfort nibbles at lunch or after a movie, or tossing back sakes and brews. 926

Spectrum Center Drive, 949-536-5064. $$

SESSIONS

No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West

Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See

Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations.

Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the

Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the

Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$

TWO LEFT FORKS

This inland sibling has the strong appeal of its now-closed original Dana Point location, except the coastal site has been swapped for a roomier space with easy parking, as well as lunch and weekend brunch service. Come here for bananas Foster pancakes or an open-face sandwich with burrata, prosciutto, avocado, and eggs your way. Popular for happy hour. 6511 Quail Hill Parkway, 949-3876700. $$$

PROMOTION

O.C. Scene PEOPLE | PARTIES | EVENTS | OPENINGS

ORANGE COUNTY UNITED WAY’S INAUGURAL “TAKING FLIGHT” FUNDRAISER

Orange County United Way’s Tocqueville Society hosted the inaugural “Taking Flight” fall fundraiser at the Lyon Air Museum, which celebrated an extraordinary group of philanthropists who have created lasting change and tackled our community’s most crucial issues. The Alexis de Tocqueville Society has contributed more than $2.9M over the past year to support Orange County United Way’s mission of improving lives in Orange County — helping students succeed, struggling families gain financial security and homeless neighbors find a place to call home. By introducing even more devoted community leaders to United Way’s work, and expanding the network of philanthropic champions, an additional $275,000 was raised during the event.

Photo Credit: Orange County United Way

LAGUNA BEACH

ALESSÁ BY CHEF PIROZZI

This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a bar featuring primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic producers, all hand-sliced to order. 234 Forest Ave., 949497-8222. $$

BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA

Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie

Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar. Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre

St., 949-715-8234. $$$

BRUSSELS BISTRO

Loud and lively, this bistro brings a bit of Belgium to

Orange County, with traditional beers on tap and an authentic menu. Stick with the tasty burger on rustic bread, or the mussels, served with the requisite frites. 222 Forest Ave., 949-376-7955. $$

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN DE MEXICO

This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer top-notch

Cal-Mex fare. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829.

See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$

THE DRAKE

The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of

Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish).

Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast

Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$

DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN

With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.

Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft drinks also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949715-7700. $$

HARLEY LAGUNA BEACH

Refreshed to a comfy sheen, this landmark twostory tavern is unfussy and welcoming with vintage family photos on the wall, some featuring the chef’s

Grandpa Harley. As ever, chef-owner Greg Daniels coaxes savoriness from goods sourced from small producers such as Gonestraw Farms in Riverside.

Their eggs with bright-orange yolks become soft, jammy “deviled” eggs. Gonestraw chicken also stars in a lovely potpie with celery root, heirloom carrots, and the warm aura of curry. For dessert, downhome pecan pie and ice cream made with honey from Orange Park Acres’ own Backyard Bees. 370

Glenneyre St., 949-715-1530. Dinner only. $$$ Arroz de mariscos at Sueños

THE LOFT

Part of the fun of dining at the posh Montage Laguna

Beach is a spectacular ocean view, and this restful aerie delivers that view with style. The welledited menu features refined fare made from prime, seasonal goods with coastal flavors. Always leave room for nibbles from the inimitable cheese gallery boasting the area’s best selection of elite cheeses with from-scratch condiments. 30801 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-6420. $$$

LUMBERYARD

Veteran local restaurateur Cary Redfearn brought new life to this downtown landmark with a welcoming bar and comfort classics such as meatloaf and chicken potpie that lure tourists and villagers alike. Look for a solid happy hour. 384 Forest Ave., 949-715-3900. $$

MOZAMBIQUE

The eclectic cuisine shows influences of South Africa.

Peri-peri prawns, curries, and grilled meats are best bets. The wine list includes interesting selections from South Africa and New Zealand. 1740 S. Coast

Highway, 949-715-7777. $$$

NICK’S

Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$

OLIVER’S OSTERIA

Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon

Road, 949-715-0261. $$$

SAPPHIRE CELLAR CRAFT COOK

The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location.

Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South

Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$

SELANNE STEAK TAVERN

Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway.

Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef

Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people watching. 1464 S.

Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$

SPLASHES RESTAURANT

Easily one of our coast’s top resort options for a surf’s-edge indulgence, this contemporary dining room and lounge are famed for pricey romantic meals and sunset drinks. Ron Fougeray is executive chef. A stunning Pacific view dazzles, as does Fougeray’s five-star resume that includes a James Beard nomination. Expect seasonal, coastal fare. Ask for lower-level patio seating and you might feel spray off the crashing waves. Surf & Sand Resort, 1555 S.

Coast Highway, 888-281-3502. $$$