DINING GUIDE Many of our 200-plus restaurant reviews

NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

AS OF PRESS TIME IN EARLY FEBRUARY, RESTAURANTS WERE PERMITTED TO SERVE DINERS OUTDOORS OR OFFER TAKEOUT MEALS. RULES CHANGE OFTEN: PLEASE USE THIS GUIDE AS A STARTING POINT, THEN CALL THE RESTAURANT TO LEARN ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND RESERVATIONS. DESCRIPTIONS HERE ARE MOSTLY BASED ON DINING BEFORE SOCIAL DISTANCING.

MARC H 2021

DINING GUIDE

ORANGE COUNTY’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE FOR RESTAURANT NEWS & MINIREVIEWS

PRICING $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25

Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ANAHEIM

POKINOMETRY

Downtown Anaheim’s build-a-poke-bowl canteen is busy for three reasons: The food is delectable, cheap, and made your way. All the elements of delicious Hawaiian poke are assembled based on what you choose. Pick from cubed raw fish, white or brown rice, fresh onions, cucumber, avocado, mild to incendiary sauces, and vibrant garnishes of smelt roe, sesame seeds, nori, pickled ginger, and wasabi.

Parking is problematic, so go off-hours, or pay for a spot in the Wells Fargo garage off West Broadway. 184 S. Harbor Blvd., 657-208-3488. No alcohol. $

THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON

Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael

Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron

Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$

URBANA

This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing

House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

ANAHEIM HILLS

ROSINE’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers winebraised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A sizable roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spin-off menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

BREA

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and

Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040.

See Irvine location. $$

OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE

Finally, North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran

Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a

Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood and cosseting service.

Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a bar with charcuterie platters and an alluring happy hour. 180

S. Brea Blvd., 714-592-3122. Dinner only. $$$

CORONA DEL MAR

FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS

This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. 2301 San Joaquin Hills

Road, 949-640-1415. $$$

FIVE CROWNS

O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with

Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

As always, service is polished and accommodating.

Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C.

Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801

E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$

PIROZZI

With this coast-hugging venue, supreme charmer

Alessandro Pirozzi stays close to the fans who keep his restaurants perpetually packed. The expansive menu includes his greatest hits, plus items inspired by an olive-wood-burning Acunto oven from Naples, which at 900 degrees makes his good pizzas even better. Don’t miss the site-specific items: speckwrapped quail, and burrata salad. 2929 E. Coast

Highway, 949-675-2932. Dinner only. $$$

COSTA MESA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] 2145

Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran

Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and

Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almond-wood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. At the daily 3 to 6 p.m. happy hour, try wagyu corndogs dipped in honey-vinegar, and select pizzas. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853. Beer and wine. Weekend brunch. $$

DESCANSO

Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano

OUR CRITERIA

Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.

seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. The kitchen oversees an inventive lineup of 11 tacos and non-taco delights that include a gooey choriqueso verde starter or the terrific aguachile of yellowtail. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can get to the place midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714486-3798. $$

IZAKAYA HACHI

A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem.

The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566. Dinner only. $

OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR

Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a new space and bar program.

Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an

Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark

McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$

DANA POINT

GLASSPAR

Glasspar launched as a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and tap room. Veteran top toque and local Rob

Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahe site, paused for dining but open for supporting the community with ultra-fresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on top-shelf drinks is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana

Point Harbor Drive, 949-240-624. $$$

FOUNTAIN VALLEY

THE RECESS ROOM

This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love. Expect ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes by executive chef Nikko Marquez. Think octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst

St., 714-377-0398. Closed Monday. $$$

FULLERTON

KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN

This halal bistro serves flavorful kabobs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali

Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens. Khan Saab has the best stocked alcohol-free bar in O.C. 229 E.

Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$

GARDEN GROVE

NOVA KITCHEN & BAR

This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan, Korea, and

China. The handsome 35-seat lanai covered patio is Gracie’s Creek beef tortellini at Porch & Swing

beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizeable menu that also includes showy sushi and top shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. Genteel service. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714-696-0888. $$$

HUNTINGTON BEACH

RITTER’S STEAM KETTLE COOKING

Chef-partner Michael Ritter and crew chose the gentrifying heart of this big beach town to launch a second unit of this unique shop. Follow the aromas to the Cajun-Creole magic made in steam-heated steel caldrons that cook seductive versions of gumbo and chowder. Don’t miss the legendary pan roast, a heady concoction of various shellfish bubbling in a rich sauce of cream, tomato, and secret spices—by far the best-selling dish. 180 Fifth St., 714536-7733. See Santa Ana location. $$

IRVINE

ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS

Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro

Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork

T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. Saturday brunch.

Closed Sunday. $$

BISTANGO

A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. Closed Sunday. $$$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-4087819. Sunday brunch. See Brea location. $$

PORCH & SWING

This delightful new indie serves a “taste of Charleston” starring original riffs on American classics by chef Justin Werner and cocktails by Andrew Parish.

Must-try dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too.

The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$

PUESTO

San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed, thanks to original works by street artist Chor Boogie. Large groups gather at the Los Olivos Marketplace location, so expect some noise on top of the energetic soundtrack. Park Place, 3311 Michelson Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577 Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. $$

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the

Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the

Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$

LAGUNA BEACH

ALESSÁ BY CHEF PIROZZI

This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a bar featuring primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic producers. 234 Forest Ave., 949-497-8222. $$

DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN

With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.

Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Craft cocktails and brunch items also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949-715-7700. $$

LUMBERYARD

Veteran local restaurateur Cary Redfearn brought new life to this downtown landmark with a welcoming bar and comfort classics such as meatloaf and chicken potpie that lure tourists and villagers alike. 384 Forest Ave., 949-715-3900. $$

NICK’S

Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. No corkage fee. See San Clemente location. $$

OLIVER’S OSTERIA

Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel.

Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon Road, 949-715-0261. $$$

SAPPHIRE CELLAR CRAFT COOK

The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic

Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location. Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared

Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$

LAGUNA HILLS

BREAK OF DAWN

Fine-dining chef Dee Nguyen never looked back when he escaped five-star kitchens to create this daytime diner serving wildly creative comfort fare with Asian inflections. Whether sweet—French toast crème brûlée with Mexican chocolate—or savory—

Hawaiian sausage with fried eggs, scallions, green papaya, and rice—the result is spellbinding. 24291

Avenida De La Carlota, 949-587-9418. Closed Monday and Tuesday. $$ Cocktails at Fable & Spirit

IRONWOOD

The team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandel-braised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific cocktails shift with the seasons. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-446-8772. $$$

LAGUNA NIGUEL

HENDRIX

Teeming with natural light and coastal breezes,

Hendrix swaggers into Laguna Niguel with a place that promises something for everyone in this option-lean suburb. It’s from the group behind

Laguna Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, and partner Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz is executive chef. A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds, and chickenfontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-2481912. Weekend brunch. $$

MISSION VIEJO

DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB

Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival

Dublin’s finest. Executive chef David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’tmiss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats.

Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s Irish pub. 26342 Oso

Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$

WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE

This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South

County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine.

Dinner only. Closed Monday. $$$

NEWPORT BEACH

A&O KITCHEN + BAR

Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceans” theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’sedge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast

Highway, 949-630-4285. $$

BAYSIDE

Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping. Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for re-laxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in Friday night for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222.

Live music nightly. Sunday brunch. $$$

BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro

Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno

Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse canoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite. Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949520-7191. $$$

FABLE & SPIRIT

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2020

From the family behind Dublin 4 comes this lush addition to the area across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with

Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$

LIDO BOTTLE WORKS

This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$

OLEA CELLAR CRAFT COOK

Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add great cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive, Newport

Beach, 949-287-6807. Dinner nightly. $$$

SHOREBIRD

Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view. Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, and avocado fries. 2220

Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$

SUSHI ROKU

The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$

TAVERN HOUSE KITCHEN + BAR

David Wilhelm, the county’s restaurant laureate, returns to Newport Beach with this fetching and welcome rehab of a waterside venue. Menus read like a playlist of Wilhelm’s champion recipes tweaked for 2020. Stand out new dishes for dinner and weekend brunch include red snapper

Veracruzana, Buddha bowls, sirloin meatballs, and fried chicken with malted waffles. Look for a natty pre-sunset happy hour on weekdays. 333 Bayside

Drive, 949-673-8464. Sunday brunch. $$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC

Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast

Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

NEWPORT COAST

THE BEACHCOMBER

The surf’s-edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon. Executive chef Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus. 15 Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$

MARCHÉ MODERNE

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2018

The finest French bistro south of Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. Dinner nightly, Sunday brunch. $$$

MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB

O.C.’s flashiest hipsters gather here to be nursed like they’re bleeding cash. And they are. Megamartinis, obese lobsters, and Bible-thick steaks don’t come cheap, but this dramatic setting does offer the ocean view and suave service worthy of its position as our finest castle of cholesterol consumption.

Thursdays are famed for singles action that approaches tournament level. 8112 E. Coast Highway, 949-376-6990. See South Coast Metro location. $$$

ORANGE

GABBI’S MEXICAN KITCHEN

Gabbi Patrick grew up working in her family’s

Mexican restaurants, then studied at the Greystone

Culinary Academy in Napa. The menu reveals her formal training as it embraces her family’s background. With items such as gorditas al pastor (masa cakes with Kurobuta pork belly and a pineapple-onion relish), Patrick’s plates celebrate simple, honest flavors. 141 S. Glassell St., 714-6333038. $$

HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR

A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. New dishes: a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots.

Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S.

Glassell St., 714-221-0680. $$

SAN CLEMENTE

BRICK

The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino Real, 949-429-1199. Closed Monday. $$

NICK’S

On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with a modern twist. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200. No corkage fee. See Laguna Beach location. $$

SOUTH OF NICK’S

From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110

N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. No corkage fee.

Second location (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach at 540 S. Coast Hwy., 949-376-8595. $$

VINE

A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this beach burg gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2079. Dinner only. $$$

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

MAYFIELD

Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761

Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$

RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ

A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district,

Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. And don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752

Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. Closed Wednesday. $$

SANTA ANA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] BENCHMARK

Quirky but capable, this Santa Ana newcomer goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The modest menu of American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal. Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette steak atop celery root purée. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714480-0225. $$

CHATO’S BAR AND GRILL

NEW This intrepid Mexican canteen offers less familiar dishes—corundas, roast quail— alongside comfort favorites such as ceviche and chilaquiles. Michoacán native Sergio Ortega, previously of Descanso, is executive chef. Inaugural meals include dinner nightly and Sunday brunch.

Commendable cocktails. 400 N. Broadway, 714852-3256. $$

MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2017

DTSA got a major dining upgrade with this winner from chef-owner Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of highend dining, his major culinary chops rule the day but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero pretension and multicourse meals packed

with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey, and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714-836-5158. Dinner only. Closed Monday. $$$

SEAL BEACH

320 MAIN

Seal Beach’s dark-but-cheerful indie venue boasts a long-respected cocktail program, and new chef

James Miller complements those craft cocktails with a menu of rich, high-flavor fare. Think bone marrow

Wellington, and for brunch, fried chicken Benedict.

Fun day-of-the-week specials include Tiki Tuesday and Wine and Whiskey Wednesday. 320 Main St., 562-799-6246. Weekend brunch. Closed Monday. $$

MAHÉ

Mahé is a hot spot for locals. Entertainment and a lively bar are the backdrops for sushi, steaks, and seafood. The inventive rolls, such as the salmon bomb, will make you a regular. 1400 Pacific Coast

Highway, 562-431-3022. Dinner only. $$$

SOUTH COAST METRO

ANQI

Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever.

Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Try Sunday brunch for a more kickback experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-557-5679. $$$

CRUDO AT THE HALL GLOBAL EATERY

Upscale yet low key, full service Crudo gets a bit lost amid The Hall’s wonderland of casual offerings, but do search out the latest menu from Amar Santana.

It stars seasonal riffs on crudos exploding with worldly flavors plus endless choices from the raw bar, charcuterie list, and don’t-miss intricate cocktails by bar star Michael Rooney. Patio seating recommended. 3333 Bristol St., 714-515-5544. $$

DARYA

Don’t let the chandeliers and acres of marble deceive—this convivial Persian dining room isn’t staid or formal. It’s de facto party central for the county’s Persian expats, their kin, and others who enjoy superb renditions of Middle Eastern kebobs, rice dishes, and classics. Efficient service and huge portions make this a good choice for groups. 3800

South Plaza Drive, 714-557-6600. $$

HAMAMORI

Sushi master artist James Hamamori applies persuasive talent to this dazzler of a sushi bar. Son

Jim is now behind the bar, too, but this heavenly venue also shows off non-sushi dishes such as uni floating in edamame puree, Kobe rissole, and misomarinated lamb chops. Omakase is truly top-notch. 3333 Bear St., 714-850-0880. $$$

DINING NEWS

Follow our food-and-dining coverage at orangecoast.com.

Crescent Farm duck breast at Knife Pleat

KNIFE PLEAT

Knife Pleat replaces long-gone Marché Moderne in the penthouse of South Coast

Plaza. The radically transformed 80-seat setting is a clear signal that this French arrival is wholly apart from its predecessor. Chef Tony Esnault and partner

Yassmin Sarmadi are new to O.C. though acclaimed in Los Angeles, and in the case of Esnault, covered in Michelin star dust after years with mentor Alain

Ducasse. Esnault is a disciple of the seasons; his style is light, graceful, and precise as revealed by escargot ravioli in broth, his famous legumes de saison, or the ultrarefined cassoulet. Don’t skip

Germain Biotteau’s indulgent desserts. 3333 Bristol

St., Costa Mesa, 714-266-3388. Sunday tea. $$$

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE

Be prepared for gargantuan portions, with drinks to match. Mastro’s offers Prime steaks, wet-aged for 28 days. A hand-cut, 33-ounce chef’s ribeye, and a 48-ounce, double-cut porterhouse will tame the manliest appetite. Retro sides include twicebaked potato, and creamed spinach. 633 Anton

Blvd., 714-546-7405. See Newport Coast location.

Dinner only. $$$

RITTER’S STEAM KETTLE COOKING

Chef-partner Mike Ritter and crew create Cajun-

Creole magic in 12 steam-heated steel caldrons that cook seductive versions of gumbo, chowder, and the legendary pan poast—a heady concoction of various shellfish bubbling in a rich sauce of cream, tomato, and secret spices, topped with a dome of perfect jasmine rice—that’s by far the best-selling dish. And don’t miss the mean po’ boy sandwich. 1421 W. MacArthur Blvd., 714-850-1380. Beer and wine.

See Huntington Beach location. $$

TERRACE BY MIX MIX

Canny chef-owner Ross Pangilinan leverages the success of his original Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in downtown Santa Ana with this minimalist aerie overlooking the stylish Bridge of Gardens skywalk at South Coast Plaza. This venue has wine and beer and is open daily with ample free parking. Fans love the three-course lunch for $20, but weekend brunch with its mimosa cart beguiles, and dinner offers the best prix fixe in the center. Don’t-miss dishes include Asian ribs, hamachi crudo, and pork cheek adobo. 3333 Bear St., 657-231-6447. $$

TUSTIN

CENTRO STORICO

Old Town Tustin’s new kid on the old block transforms a vintage building into a spaghetteria and bar, plus a back-pocket cafe. Artisan, fresh-daily pasta is the latest effort from the Pozzuoli family behind Centro, the excellent micro pizzeria next door. Signature dishes include casarecce capperi e olive, bucatini aglione, and grilled porterhouse for two. Full bar. 405 El Camino Real, 714-258-8817. $$

CHAAK

Gabbi and Ed Patrick of Gabbi’s Kitchen chose Old Town to show off the county’s most sophisticated take on the regional fare of Mexico’s wondrous Yucatan Peninsula, naming their new location after the Mayan rain god. The dazzling space features a retractable roof and sliding Roman shades to lovely effect. Must-have dishes include sikil pec, a roasted pumpkin seed dip, as well as cochinita pibil and carne cruda. A 16-seat bar invites lingering over elaborate cocktails or a glass from an uncommonly diverse wine list. 215 El Camino

Real, 657-699-3019. $$$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The O.C. power crowd doesn’t care that this isn’t a winery, but a huge, handsome restaurant that attracts disciples of steak, wine, and cigars. They’re exactly the folks you’d expect would follow partners

JC Clow and William Lewis from their previous gig at Morton’s, with executive chef Yvon Goetz in tow.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 2647 Park Ave., 714-258-7600. See Newport Beach location. $$$

THE YELLOW CHILLI

The Yellow Chilli is another franchise by Sanjeev

Kapoor, India’s mega-celebrity chef. Knowledgeable servers help navigate the options. Don’t miss Sham

Savera, one of Kapoor’s most famous creations: open-face spinach dumplings filled with fresh white paneer that float in silky tomato gravy spiked with garlic, cardamom, and mace. The 100-seat site on

The District’s main drag is modern and stylish. 2463

Park Ave., 714-389-5280. $$

YORBA LINDA

BLUE AGAVE

Southwestern favorites, from tamales to carnitas, and mole enchiladas in generous portions keep regulars coming back. Try the Puerto Nuevo tostada with shrimp, mahi-mahi, sour cream, and raspberries in a pumpkin seed-citrus dressing. 18601 Yorba Linda Blvd., 714-970-5095. $$

THE WILD ARTICHOKE

Chef-owner James D’Aquila and his winsome crew raise the culinary bar at this teensy, modest storefront. Expect skillful, gourmet incarnations of comfort fare, such as pasta Bolognese. Desserts are few but mighty. 4973 Yorba Ranch Road, 714-7779646. Beer and wine. $$

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and included “just about every position you could hold in the museum world.” When he arrived at Bowers in 1991, the museum was about to reopen after being closed for three years. It had added 65,000 square feet of exhibit space. Keller had to figure out how to fill that space.

“One of the things I got into at the Natural History Museum was taking a more global view and focusing on quality—bringing the world’s greatest treasures to the people of Southern California,” he says. “I went after the idea of partnering with the great museums of the world, and that’s been our focus.”

Since the museum reopened in 1992, it has hosted more than 150 special exhibits (and added on another 30,000 square feet in 2007). Those exhibits have spanned the globe: “Egyptian Treasures from the British Museum,” “Sacred Gold: Pre-Hispanic Art of Colombia,” “Gods & Gifts: Vatican Ethnological Collection,” and “The Holy Land: David Roberts, Dead Sea Scrolls, House of David Inscription,” to name a few.

But Bowers is perhaps best known for its Asian-themed exhibits. Keller credits Shih for her instrumental role. “I had been trying to get a Taiwanese jade exhibit and failed three times,” he says. “She came on our board and asked if she could do anything to help. I told her, ‘Get me the jade exhibit.’ She got it two years later, and it became our first traveling show.”

The duo has since teamed to bring major shows to Orange County. “Terra Cotta Warriors: Guardians

Keller with part of the exhibit “Secrets of the Silk Road,” 2010

of China’s First Emperor” drew visitors from all 50 states and spawned a sequel. Almost 200 sacred artifacts were displayed in “Tibet: Treasures From the Roof of the World.” “Secrets of the Silk Road” included three Caucasian mummies that had been found in western China.

“Peter is a true cultural art expert. With his leadership and experience, we have brought amazing exhibits from all around the world to Orange County,” says Shih, noting that Bowers has received the highest national recognition from the American Alliance of Museums. “I respect him tremendously and learned a lot from him.”

Adds Anderson, “He encourages those around him to learn a little bit more, to roll with the punches a little bit more, and to know you have a little bit more to o er than you think.”

A PEOPLE PERSON

While Keller relishes the globetrotting nature of his job, the people he meets are more important to him than the places he has been. Someone who’d rather talk than text, Keller has enjoyed beers in the pub with the keeper of antiquities at The British Museum, discussed history with the director of the Museum of the Terra Cotta Warriors, and combed through the Vatican archives with the director of its Ethnological Museum.

“It’s all about developing relationships and friendships,” Keller says. “Once you’re friends, anything can happen, and that’s what makes the job fun for me.”

However, it’s di cult to maintain those interpersonal connections during a pandemic that prohibits travel. COVID-19 also shut down the museum to visitors, so Keller and his team pivoted to digital presentations of programs at Bowers and its Kidseum two blocks away. He hopes Bowers reopens before its two current exhibits have to move on.

But even a pandemic won’t stop Keller from setting goals for the future. He talks about putting another addition on the museum. He’s working on potential future exhibits with the Royal Geographical Society and the Vatican; he’d also like to do another show on gemstones, a passion that dates back to his Ph.D. in geology. And he can’t wait to travel again and rekindle his relationships around the world. It sounds like a full slate for someone who has been on the job as long as he has. As Keller puts it, “I always say it’s just been my first 30 years.”