MAIN COURSE Outpost Kitchen’s second location bustles at brunch.

MAIN COURSE

OUTPOST KITCHEN

O erings at the second location keep to same fresh, delicious standards. by Gretchen Kurz

When jaunty indie Outpost Kitchen expanded to its second location—a sun-splashed spot on Bristol Street—the neighborhood was bustling. Performing arts stages had full schedules, South Coast Plaza stores were logging record sales, and surrounding o ce towers were full of securely employed workers. That all came to a screeching halt within a week in March 2020, and founder Jay Lewis saw his thriving target market vanish while the paint was still wet on the parking lot lines.

Kicking back over jazzy cocktails on the patio for dinner in May, I realized the venue’s paused grand opening is actually a recovery now into its third year. Lewis wowed Westside Costa Mesa in 2015 when locals fell hard for the vibrant chow inspired by his Gold Coast surf town roots.

Expanding on five years of success made perfect sense. Until it didn’t. Surviving the pandemic required both locations take careful steps to reopen with breakfast fare. Now the glossy new site serves breakfast, lunch, and brunch. Here is where Lewis and his longtime executive chef David Osborn have the infrastructure to elevate o erings—think lunch burgers and cocktails.

The fried egg Brekky Sandwich I’ve loved for years is even better when joined by a Howling Wolf bone broth bloody mary. The everpopular blueberry pancakes, feather light and gluten free, call for a sparkling pear kombucha with coconut bitters. Gunwhale Bait Ball IPA pairs nicely with the hearty steak and eggs skillet with avocado. Excellent seedy country

LEFT (Clockwise from top) Steak and eggs skillet, deviled eggs, and Aussie scramble RIGHT Outpost Kitchen's newest location is across the street from South Coast Plaza. bread toast rides shotgun—the same bread reappears in avocado toast with feta and sassy peppadew relish.

Lunch choices are mostly variations on a sandwich, such as wraps, tacos, and a burger. Lamb braised 48 hours and sliced into tender slabs is the heart of The Kingswood, a satisfying ciabatta stack with harissa pesto, goat cheese, and arugula. The chicken pesto sandwich is a yawn compared to the sultry Tantra Wrap—plump with curried grilled white meat, cashews, dates, red onion, and umami mayo. Captains Ahi Wrap is a winner as well, dressed with lemon, dill, and greens that let the fresh tuna shine. Date Mate salad is an Outpost stalwart because the magical mix of medjool dates, chicken breast, goat cheese, pecans, and baby kale has no equal in these parts.

“In constant search for the world’s best” is the credo behind Lewis’ insistence on foods

3420 Bristol St. Costa Mesa 714-852-3044

5 BEST DISHES

’Blueberry pancakes ’The Kingswood ’Date Mate salad ’Jay burger ’Tropical blue smoothie

PRICE RANGE

Breakfast, lunch, and brunch: $9 to $30

FYI Corkage is $25.

that are local, organic, and sustainable. And that’s just the start for a scratch kitchen that goes the extra mile by making every little thing in-house: chutneys, jams, pickled vegetables, syrups, infusions, and cold-pressed juices. There’s no freezer here: Everything is fresh, and Lewis reports that deliveries occur twice daily. Creative smoothies and juice blends cater to every whim and fancy. If Looks Could Kale wins the eye-roll award for corniest name. But cheeky, lighthearted notes convey the Aussie charm of this breezy operation. Plates are often pink. A printed drink napkin has a lip print and “Call Me” scribbled above the logo. A pint glass declares “Nectar of the gods.”

Dinner service was still finding its feet on multiple May visits. The menu was pared down from daylight o erings, though beverage options remain copious. Seasonal cocktails are superb, so consider starting there or with a draft beer from

Jay burger

a list that’s admirably 100 percent local. Clearly, dinner is new and the least realized meal here. It’s likely why dinner service was paused just hours before this review went to press. This venue is so promising as an evening destination—especially for pre-show dining now that adjacent stages have so many curtain calls ahead.

Pandemic recovery is wobbly on many fronts and will progress at a pace unknown. As the South Coast Metro zone reawakens to its next normal, it’s heartening to see plucky Outpost Kitchen has prevailed against formidable odds.

photograph by EMILY J. DAVIS