DINING GUIDE

DECEM B ER 2022

ORANGE COUNTY’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE FOR RESTAURANT NEWS & MINIREVIEWS

PRICING $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25

Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ALISO VIEJO

OPAH

Trendy and sleek, this neighborhood hottie oozes a hip energy that attracts single minglers and ’burban scene-hunters in search of artfully prepared

California cuisine. Choose from a varied, creative menu with an array of signature items. Monster martinis keep the mood lively. 26851 Aliso Creek

Road, 949-360-8822. $$

ANAHEIM

CATAL RESTAURANT AND UVA BAR

Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the

Patina Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine. Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great peoplewatching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$

NAPA ROSE

Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare.

The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313 Disneyland

Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$

POPPY & SEED

Chef-owner Michael Reed applies his versatile chops to a spirited, seasonal dinner menu of share plates and thoughtful proteins. Clever variations on of-the-moment produce are high points, as are premium steaks and duck dishes. The oneof-a-kind greenhouse garden setting is a calming contrast to neighbor Anaheim Packing House. Weekend brunch. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 350

S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-603-7130 $$$

THE RANCH

Oozing ambition, this upscale venue boasts a yowza saloon and a fine dining room so serious about sourcing, it maintains a private farm in the nearby foothills. A whopping menu of decidedly seasonal

American fare boasts both uptown and down-home dishes. Live entertainment and dancing keep the deluxe honkytonk hopping on weekends. 1025 E.

Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$

ROXY’Z

Zov’s Anaheim resurfaced as this breezy watering hole inspired by Zov Karamardian’s mother and reputed renegade Roxy. Craft cocktails, imaginative share plates, and premier pizzas dominate a menu designed for gathering before or after games, concerts, and Disneyland visits. Don’t-miss dishes include the chile-glazed rib stack, fried chicken sandwich, and kebab platter. There’s an elevated beer program and a midweek happy hour. 1801 E.

Katella Ave., 714-280-9687. $$

TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN

This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and allnatural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Beer and wine. $$

URBANA

This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing

House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

ANAHEIM HILLS

EL CHOLO

A spiffy suburban outpost of the combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the birth of the restaurant: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La

Habra locations. $$

REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK

Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet

Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E.

Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$

ROSINE’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers winebraised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A sizable roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spin-off menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

BREA

BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN

One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are fairly rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. This sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s does winning arancini, steamed mussels, house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. A notable happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature Italian cocktails. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. $$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$

OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE

North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service.

Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714592-3122. $$$

OUR CRITERIA

Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.

TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY

Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E. Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$

CORONA DEL MAR

608 DAHLIA

Chef-owner Jessica Roy transformed the alfresco gem inside iconic Sherman Library & Gardens with a new name and joyous take on seasonal fare. Dreamy salads are impeccably fresh, pastas imaginative, and vegetarian tacos are a signature dish in the making.

Effusive wine cocktails. 2647 E. Coast Highway, 949220-7229. Lunch only. $$

CDM RESTAURANT

The team behind much-loved A Restaurant offers light-wood floors, peacock-blue velvet booths, leather chairs, and a free-standing, always-busy bar. The kitchen takes on seasonal, contemporary

American fare. Think a trio of unexpectedly sublime pizzas. Ethereal Parker House rolls. 2325 E. Coast

Highway, 949-287-6600. $$$

EL CHOLO

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 3520 E. Coast

Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La

Habra locations. $

FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS

This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and

O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$

FIVE CROWNS

O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with

Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

As always, service is polished and accommodating.

Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C.

Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801

E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$

SIDEDOOR

Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$ Seasonal vegetable risotto at 608 Dahlia

COSTA MESA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] 2145 EATS

Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almond-wood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. Star dessert: horchata tiramisu. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853.

Beer and wine. $$

BUTCHER’S HOUSE BRASSERIE

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2022

Chef-owner Jeoffrey Offer—native of Toulouse, France, and son of a butcher—brought his pandemic dream to life with this intimate spot focused on steaks, chops, and scratch sausages. Eight specialty sauces are house-made to suit meats and starters.

Wood-grilled options range from a mighty fine burger to a grand aged ribeye for two. The tidy bar boasts a kitchen view, and the patio offers a quiet alternative to the lively hubbub of a packed house.

Weekend brunch stars Offer’s distinct take on croque madame and steak and eggs. There’s also a succinct wine list. 3321 Hyland Ave., 714-714-0662. $$$

DESCANSO

Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$

HABANA

Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies.

Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$

IZAKAYA HACHI

A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem.

The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566.

Dinner only. $

MESA

At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725

Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR

Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$

TACO MARÍA

Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs,

UNCOMMON COFFEE | FREELANCE COFFEE PROJECT

New Freelance Co ee Project appears to be Southern California’s first roastery and tasting room focusing solely on single-origin co ees. Two original founders of Common Room Roasters and of Melbourne, Australia-based branding agency Passport Brand Design created the concept; Freelance and Passport’s U.S. outpost share a stylishly converted warehouse in an industrial area of Newport Beach. The co ee side is lined with engaging art and burlap sacks of single-origin beans. It o ers a curated collection of home-brewing equipment, home wares, ceramics, gi s, and bags of single-origin co ee as well as a window onto the roastery itself. Baristas present a variety of classic and specialty drinks alongside pastries from Crema Artisan Bakers. Beans such as Ethiopian Guji Derikocha and Colombian Finca La Lina Pink Bourbon make for superlative espressos. The menu includes the Sparky espresso tonic. Head roaster is Ryan Okko; owners Jeremy Creighton and Natalie Taormina are launching a second location in Laguna Beach. 882 Production Place, Newport Beach, 949-877-8862, freelanceco eeproject.com —BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

DANA POINT

ENOSTEAK

The coast’s most intimate salon for ultrapremium steaks is discreetly tucked just off the lobby at this esteemed resort. Beef—be it grass-fed, grain-fed, bone-in, or dry-aged—is the star of a pithy-if-pricey menu. Lavish compound butter s to enjoy alongside steaks are a house signature. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-

Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$

GLASSPAR

Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream site, supporting the community with ultrafresh fare, delicious dishes, and his five-star service.

A tight focus on top-shelf cocktails lures groups who want to gather for toasting. 24961 Dana Point

Harbor Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$

RAYA

Steve Wan is executive sous chef at this posh-butrelaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience.

But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$

SALT CREEK GRILLE

Rambling Craftsman architecture and a lovely terraced patio supply a handsome backdrop for mesquite-grilled chophouse favorites and comfort classics. The roomy lounge does a vigorous business when live music lures coastal partiers too chic for beach dives and too dignified for dance clubs. 32802 Pacific Coast Highway, 949-661-7799. $$

FOUNTAIN VALLEY

INI RISTORANTE

NEW Booked solid in its early months, Ini weaves Japanese flavors and ingredients into classic Italian fare. Think branzino with yuzu beurre blanc, udon carbonara, or chicken curry pizza.

The latest from juggernaut Kei Concepts (Vox

Kitchen, Kin Craft Ramen, Nep Café), Ini shines with novel but approachable dishes, consistently executed. Polished cocktails and stylish desserts. 16129

Brookhurst St., 714-277-4046, $$$

THE RECESS ROOM

This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst

St., 714-377-0398. $$$

FULLERTON

THE CELLAR

Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, oldschool French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such

as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate soufflé. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$

HOPSCOTCH TAVERN

The affable downtown watering hole is unabashedly keen on booze. Artisan cocktails that feature 140 whiskeys and a choice of 80 craft beers are the axis for a limited menu big on brawny proteins, savory carbs, and fried finger foods. The clever revamp of

Fullerton’s 1918 Mission Revival-style Pacific Electric

Railway Station feels accessible and low-key. 136 E.

Commonwealth Ave., 714-871-2222. $$ KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN

Born in the crucible of the pandemic, this halal bistro serves flavorful kebabs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens.

Khan Saab has the best-stocked alcohol-free bar in O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$

GARDEN GROVE

NOVA KITCHEN & BAR

This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan,

Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizable menu that also includes showy sushi and top-shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714-696-0888. $$$

HUNTINGTON BEACH

CUCINA ALESSÁ

Despite the exit of its founding chef, this two-story trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 520 Main St., 714-969-2148.

See Newport Beach location. $$

HENRY’S COASTAL CUISINE

This Surf City resort’s fine dining choice prevails with expertly executed fare that’s mostly familiar and gorgeously presented. Goat cheese fudge is a surprising outlier on a tight menu of classics, some worthy of special occasions—think lobster bisque and côte de boeuf for two. Polished service. Live music. Waterfront Beach Resort, 21100 Pacific Coast

Highway, 714-845-8000. Dinner only. $$$$

LSXO

Step back in time to colonial Vietnam at this vest-pocket hideaway with only 28 seats. Chef-owner Tin Vuong amplifies his successful L.A. Little Sister act with a sultry setting (tucked inside of huge Bluegold) and uncompromising Viet fare inspired by his roots and frequent travels to South Vietnam. Nifty craft cocktails and luxe dishes such as salt and pepper lobster make a good date night, but we also like the street-style noshes such as prawn crepes and lemongrass skewers. Fair warning: The uncensored rap soundtrack is not for all ears. 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-0083. $$

GIFTS.

BALLOONS.

PARTY SUPPLIES.

You’ll find just the right mix of unique gifts, whimsical party supplies and fabulous balloons.

220 Avenida Del Mar, San Clemente, CA 92672 949.503.3326

Instagram @MikiisOnDelMar

SESSIONS

Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific

Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See

Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

WATERTABLE

Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tiptop craft cocktails, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of longtime Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point.

We return just for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The new morning lineup of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific Coast

Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IRVINE

ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS

Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro

Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork

T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$

BISTANGO

A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$

CUCINA ENOTECA

This 285-seat operation from San Diego’s Urban

Kitchen Group offers two sprawling patios and a huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, and the scene oozes chic with scads of handmade furnishings for sale. The Cal-Ital menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to house-made pastas. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center

Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$

HABANA

We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat comBeet and goat cheese tortellini at Porch & Swing

pound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor.

A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100.

See Costa Mesa location. $$$

JA JIAOZI

It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. First-timers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed

Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Top-notch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$

LITTLE SISTER

This Irvine Spectrum spot is an XXL bistro to older sister shop LSXO. Chef-partner Tim Vuong musters a team that pulls off a bigger menu, bigger digs, and a bigger profile with ease. Find proven faves—the overstuffed Viet crepe and the Shaky Shaky Beef— plus new lunch porridges and bánh mìs streaming out of the kitchen to a bustling dining room. Vintage rap tracks and a crackerjack bar keep the vibe lively. 896 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-800-8798. $$$

PORCH & SWING

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2021

This delightful indie serves a “taste of Charleston” starring original riffs on American classics and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Must-try dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$

PUESTO

San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson

Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577

Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. $$

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

Sizzling Prime steaks, wet-aged from 24 to 28 days, are served topped with big pats of butter and chopped parsley. Founder Ruth Fertel grew up in

New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2961 Michelson Drive, 949-252-8848. See Anaheim location. $$$

SESSIONS

No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West

Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See

Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations.

Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the

Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the

Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$

LAGUNA BEACH

ALESSÁ BY CHEF PIROZZI

This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a bar featuring primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic produc-

ers, all hand-sliced to order. 234 Forest Ave., 949497-8222. $$

BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA

Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie

Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar. Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre

St., 949-715-8234. $$$

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN DE MEXICO

This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer top-notch

Cal-Mex fare. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829.

See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$

THE DRAKE

The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of

Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine melt, the chile-lime swordfish).

Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast

Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$

DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN

With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.

Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft drinks are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949-715-7700. $$

LUMBERYARD

Veteran local restaurateur Cary Redfearn brought new life to this downtown landmark with a welcoming bar and comfort classics such as meatloaf and chicken potpie that lure tourists and villagers alike. Look for a solid happy hour. 384 Forest Ave., 949-715-3900. $$

MOZAMBIQUE

The eclectic cuisine shows influences of South Africa.

Peri-peri prawns, curries, and grilled meats are best bets. The wine list includes interesting selections from South Africa and New Zealand. 1740 S. Coast

Highway, 949-715-7777. $$$

NICK’S

Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$

OLIVER’S OSTERIA

Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wonSeafood trio at Calo Kitchen + Tequila

drous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon

Road, 949-715-0261. $$$

SAPPHIRE CELLAR CRAFT COOK

The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location.

Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South

Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$

SELANNE STEAK TAVERN

Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway.

Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef

Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people-watching. 1464 S.

Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$

LAGUNA HILLS

IRONWOOD

The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandelbraised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-4468772. Dinner only. $$$

LAGUNA NIGUEL

BOTTEGA ANGELINA

This chic Italian is a grand showpiece by the team behind Pizzeria Angelina. House-made pastas, roasted meats, and pizzas share a succinct menu, supported by sophisticated cocktails from an imposing marble bar. Vast patio with dazzling views. A piccolo store sells pantry goods and gelatos. 32441 Golden

Lantern, 949-542-8220. $$$ CALO KITCHEN + TEQUILA

Chic and breezy as a Baja resort, this sprawling spot has its act together, luring local crowds for upscale

Mexican classics. An unending flow of worthy margaritas keeps the white marble bar humming while the kitchen churns out well-executed shrimp ceviche, carnitas, combo plates, and short rib enchiladas. Huge portions, sharp service, and modern digs seal the deal. Scores of sipping tequilas delight agave fans. 28141 Crown Valley Parkway, 949-4097380. $$$

HENDRIX

Teeming with natural light and coastal breezes, Hendrix swaggers into Laguna Niguel with a place that promises something for everyone in this optionlean suburb. It’s from the group behind Laguna

Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, and partner Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz is executive chef.

A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with marcona almonds, and chicken-fontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-248-1912. $$

LA HABRA

EL CHOLO

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg.

Green corn tamales (available seasonally) have

achieved cult status. This location oozes a family vibe. 840 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-691-4618. See Anaheim Hills and Corona del Mar locations. $

MISSION VIEJO

DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB

Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef

David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s

Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$

WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE

This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal

California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso

Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$

NEWPORT BEACH

A RESTAURANT

This sexy old-school hangout rarely wants for business, thanks to the retooling of American classics

made with hard-to-find premium goods. The stellar burger is not on the menu or always available, but go ahead and ask. At A Market next door, the inimitable Shelly Register oversees gourmet sandwiches and to-go goodies. 3334 W. Coast Highway, 949-650-6505. Dinner only. $$$

BAYSIDE

Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping.

Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for relaxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in Friday night for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900

Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$ BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro

Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse cannoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite. Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949520-7191. $$$

BOUILLON

Indefatigable operator Laurent Vrigand, the founder of six Moulin cafes, debuts his first full-service restaurant—an homage to Paris’ Bouillon Chartier, his

childhood favorite. Expect one all-day menu of nostalgic fare at painless prices, no substitutions, no reservations, and snappy service. Standouts include tian Provençal, beef bourguignon, and profiteroles. 1000 N. Bristol, 949-418-9549. $$

THE CANNERY

The 1921 landmark structure has dazzled diners for more than 50 years with its waterfront site, pristine seafood, and top chops. Executive chef Marcus Hagan keeps the menu relevant by adding new dishes, say baked Peruvian scallops, to classics such as the trusted lobster roll. Also check out The Snug, a cozy bar downstairs, carved from the main dining room. Dockside dining offered for boaters. 3010

Lafayette Road, 949-566-0060. $$$

CUCINA ALESSÁ

Despite the exit of its founding chef, this trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 6700 W. Coast Highway, 949-645-2148.

See Huntington Beach location. $$

CUCINA ENOTECA

Chef de cuisine Cesar Sarmiento helms the busy scratch kitchen of this Fashion Island sibling. The sprawling, lively space with its alluring garden room, hip cocktails, and fun wines supports inventive takes on classic pastas, cured meats, and creative breads. Like the Irvine location, this venue offers a retail wine boutique. Daily happy hour is a deal for tony Fashion Island. 951 Newport Center Drive, 949706-1416. See Irvine location. $$

PROMOTION

O.C. Scene PEOPLE | PARTIES | EVENTS | OPENINGS

PACIFIC WINE & FOOD CLASSIC

The 4th annual Pacific Wine & Food Classic returned after a twoyear hiatus. The sold out, top-notch culinary experience highlighted world-class wines from around the world, and over 30 of Orange County’s finest food purveyors. Wine aficionados and foodies descended upon the soft sand beaches of Newport Dunes Waterfront Resort to celebrate the bounty of Southern California.

Photo Credit: Anthony Ochoa and Luis Esparza

EDDIE V’S WILDFISH

Wildfish lures a loyal following. The finely calibrated menu of pristine seafood and first-class steaks keeps the glossy room and fireplace patio hopping, especially for nightly happy hour deals when upscale locals crowd the sleek bar. Urbane service.

Strong wine list. 1370 Bison Ave., 949-720-9925. $$$

FABLE & SPIRIT

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2020

From the family behind Dublin 4 comes this lush addition to the area across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with

Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$

FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR

Dry-aged steaks star at this red meat specialist, supported by a luxe array of seafood starters. A la carte lunch options include a filet mignon wedge salad. The sensational happy hour is one of Fashion

Island’s most popular. Another house signature: an all-star wine list with more than 100 choices by the glass. 455 Newport Center Drive, 949-720-9633. $$$

GULFSTREAM

Heavenly biscuits, baked to order, and pristine oysters, shucked to order (in season), are two reasons to visit this popular bar and restaurant. The sand-floor patio with glowing fire pit attracts singles, while the ocean-fresh fare draws foodies. If freshly caught seafood doesn’t appeal, there are terrestrial dishes such as mustard barbecue beef ribs. 850 Avocado

Ave., 949-718-0188. $$$ LIDO BOTTLE WORKS

This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$

MALIBU FARM LIDO

Malibu farm girl and native Swede Helene Henderson adds another ocean-air venue for colorful organic fare. The all-day menu boasts fat burritos, fruit-covered grain, or yogurt bowls and savory options that include the bestseller, an outstanding fried egg sandwich with great bacon and Havarti on country toast with lemon aioli. Multigrain pancakes are worthy, but Swedish mini pancakes with berries and cream are stupendous. 3420 Via Oporto, 949-791-2096. $$

MOULIN

Moulin is the passion project of Paris native Laurent Vrignaud. After 30 years in the action-sports industry, he lives his longtime dream of serving bistro classics, selling oven-fresh baguettes and grab-and-go dishes, and peddling wines and other

French pantry items. The unfussy bistro and patio evoke Paris at every turn. It’s O.C.’s gathering spot for expats and Francophiles. 1000 Bristol St. North, 949474-0920. Locations (not reviewed) in Costa Mesa,

Dana Point, Laguna Beach, and San Clemente. $$ Heirloom carrots at Fable & Spirit

OLEA CELLAR CRAFT COOK

Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive, 949-2876807. Dinner only. $$$

SABATINO’S LIDO SHIPYARD SAUSAGE CO.

Peter Sabatino used to deliver his mom’s sausages door to door in Chicago. Now customers come to him in Newport Beach, where he sells 300 to 400 pounds a day from his restaurant. The old-school

Italian menu and comfy patio make it a relaxing spot for first dates or family dinners of pastas, seafood, and, of course, dishes loaded with his secretrecipe sausages. 251 Shipyard Way, 949-723-0621.

Beer and wine. $$

SESSIONS

This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two.

Gourmet creations with kooky names are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823

Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine. See

Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

SHOREBIRD

Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view. Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$

SOL COCINA

Fresh, spunky flavors of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula lure the coastal crowd to this bayside cantina. A kickin’ bar with crackling fireplace serves tasty cocktails, many made from scores of artisan tequilas. 251 E.

Coast Highway, 949-675-9800. $$$

SUSHI ROKU

The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$

TAVERN HOUSE KITCHEN + BAR

David Wilhelm, the county’s restaurant laureate, returns to Newport Beach with this fetching and welcome rehab of a waterside venue. Menus read like a playlist of Wilhelm’s champion recipes tweaked for 2020. Standout new dishes for dinner and weekend brunch include red snapper Veracruzana, Buddha bowls, sirloin meatballs, and fried chicken with malted waffles. Look for a natty presunset happy hour on weekdays. 333 Bayside Drive, 949-673-8464. $$

TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT, BAR & STORE

This local favorite strives to remain relevant. The coastal cuisine is well-executed, from a menu that keeps up with dishes such as seared scallop sliders, za’atar-crusted ahi tuna with Beluga lentils, and filet mignon flatbread. As always, drinks are inviting with a tropical theme; the mai tai is the best around. A super-sleek new patio is lighter, brighter, and big-

ger. This is a great place to meet for happy hour. 854

Avocado Ave., 949-760-8686. $$

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC

Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast

Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

NEWPORT COAST

THE BEACHCOMBER

The surf’s-edge view is amazing, and the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon.

Executive chef Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus that change slightly each season. 15 Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$

BLUEFIN

Adroit chef Takashi Abe applies his considerable talents to pristine ingredients he fashions into gorgeous works of edible Japanese art. His omakase is transcendent (and cheaper at lunch). The setting is suitably spare and visually soothing. Superior sake selection. 7952 E. Coast Highway, 949-715-7373. $$$

MARCHÉ MODERNE

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2018

The finest French bistro south of Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$

WASA SUSHI

James Hamamori cemented his stardom at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. 1344 Bison Ave., 949-760-1511.

Beer and wine. $$

ZOV’S NEWPORT COAST

This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes such as

Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123

Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$

ORANGE

BOSSCAT KITCHEN & LIBATIONS

Old Towne’s newest gastropub thoughtfully transforms a historic corner into a lively whiskey bar serving worthy eats with a southern accent. Look for

Parmesan-crusted meatloaf, gulf shrimp and grits, and a yowza burger. The service is sharp. Sunday brunch and a robust midweek happy hour. 118 W.

Chapman Ave., 714-716-1599. $$

GABBI’S MEXICAN KITCHEN

Gabbi Patrick grew up working in her family’s Mexican restaurants, then studied at the Greystone Culinary Academy in Napa. The menu reveals her formal training as it embraces her family’s background.

With items such as gorditas al pastor (masa cakes with Kurobuta pork belly and a pineapple-onion relish), Patrick’s plates celebrate simple, honest flavors. 141 S. Glassell St., 714-633-3038. $$

HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR

A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots. Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S. Glassell

St., 714-221-0680. $$

PROMOTION

O.C. Scene PEOPLE | PARTIES | EVENTS | OPENINGS

CHEF MASTERS

With 35 OC chefs and a plethora of wineries participating in this year’s Chef Masters culinary extravaganza at the Festival of Arts grounds in Laguna Beach, there were 320 very happy guests. Benefiting Unconditional, a senior and special needs dog rescue, made it even more gratifying.

Photo Credit: Bob Hodson and Corey Sandler

RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA

THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR

Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho

Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba

Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN

This lakefront sprawler offers top-notch Cal-Mex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente

Heredia Jr., a third-generation operator. Expect

Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-709-7600. See Laguna Beach location. $$

SAN CLEMENTE

BRICK

The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino

Real, 949-429-1199. $$

NICK’S

On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grownups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact allday menu of comfort classics with a modern twist.

Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace. 213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200.

See Laguna Beach location. $$

SOUTH OF NICK’S

From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110

N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. Second location (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach at 540 S. Coast Hwy., 949-376-8595. $$

VINE

A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this beach burg gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2079. Dinner only. $$$

SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO

MAYFIELD

Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle

East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge Fried burrata sandwich at Tableau Kitchen and Bar

cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$

PUBLIC 74

This county-line gastropub radiates a welcoming vibe that attracts customers of all types to its fauxramshackle chic, second-story venue. Craft brews, booze, and decidedly eclectic eats change often, as executive chef Gerry Kent keeps the smallish menu seasonal. Definitely consider the two-handed Reuben, and there’s a seasonal monster burger. 27211

Ortega Highway, 949-481-2723. $$

RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ

A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district,

Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. And don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752

Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$

SANTA ANA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] BENCHMARK

Quirky and capable, this Santa Ana spot goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The modest menu of

American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal. Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette steak atop celery root puree. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714-480-0225. $$

CHATO’S BAR AND GRILL

This intrepid Mexican canteen offers less-familiar dishes—corundas, roast quail—alongside comfort favorites such as ceviche and chilaquiles. Michoacán native Sergio Ortega previously of Descanso, is executive chef. Inaugural meals include dinner nightly and Sunday brunch. Commendable drinks. 400 N. Broadway, 714-852-3256. $$

EL MERCADO MODERN CUISINE

Deceptively bare bones, the menu offers about 20 dishes, each showcasing a regional recipe from-

Mexico’s distinctive territories. Don’t miss a sublime aguachile verde. Also impressive: crisp tacos ahogado in hot broth. We loved the guajillo salsa-soaked bread in the open-face pork pambazo at brunch.

Inventive cocktails lean on mezcal and house-made bitters. The vintage site with soaring ceilings seats 115 and boasts modern artwork. Expect kind, unflappable service. 301 N. Spurgeon St., 714-338-2446. $$

MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2017

DTSA got a major dining upgrade with this winner from chef-owner Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of highend dining, his major culinary chops rule the day but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero pretension and multicourse meals packed with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey, and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714-836-5158. Dinner only. $$$

SOUTH COAST METRO

ANQI

Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever.

Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Drinks at the dramatic bar dazzle the cocktail crowd, but try Sunday brunch for a more kickback experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-5575679. $$$

DIN TAI FUNG

Fans happily endure long waits to satisfy their craving for xiao long bao, juicy pork dumplings, handpleated with care. Bowls of noodles, rice, and stacks of bamboo steamers crowd tables as diners blend

their own aromatic dipping sauce from rich soy, black vinegar, and shreds of fresh ginger. 3333 Bristol St., 714-549-3388. $$

HAMAMORI

Sushi master artist James Hamamori applies persuasive talent to this South Coast Plaza penthouse dazzler of a sushi bar. Son Jim is now behind the bar, too, but this heavenly venue also shows off non-sushi dishes such as uni floating in edamame puree, Kobe rissole, and miso-marinated lamb chops. Omakase is truly top-notch. 3333 Bear St., 714-850-0880. $$$

KNIFE PLEAT

South Coast Plaza’s rarefied penthouse shines ever brighter with Orange County’s newest Michelin star recipient, helmed by chef Tony

Esnault and partner Yassmin Sarmadi. The Michelinacclaimed duo from Los Angeles was destined to see stars again with this radiant backdrop for

Esnault’s graceful cuisine and Sarmadi’s courtly hospitality. Look for butter-poached lobster, forest mushroom melange, and the signature legumes de saison when nature allows. Save room for Germain

Biotteau’s inimitable desserts. Friday and Saturday night tasting menus are utterly indulgent. 3333 Bristol St., 714-266-3388. Closed Sunday and Monday. $$$

PARADISE DYNASTY

Singapore’s largest restaurant group opts for the

Bloomingdale’s end of South Coast Plaza for its first

U.S. operation with this wildly popular soup dumpling specialist that pioneered xiao long bao, oozing with luxury ingredients that include black truffles, foie gras, and crab roe. Ultramodern digs seat diners in view of an exhibition kitchen where 20 artisans handcraft a steady flow of dumplings to support a 75-dish menu starring dim sum and Sichuan classics.

Walk-up wait list. 3333 Bristol St., 714-617-4630 $$

RITTER’S STEAM KETTLE COOKING

Chef-partner Mike Ritter and crew create Cajun-

Creole magic in 12 steam-heated steel caldrons that cook seductive versions of gumbo, chowder, and the legendary pan poast—a heady concoction of various shellfish bubbling in a rich sauce of cream, tomato, and secret spices, topped with a dome of perfect jasmine rice—that’s by far the bestselling dish.

And don’t miss the mean po’ boy sandwich. 1421

W. MacArthur Blvd., 714-850-1380. Beer and wine. $$

TABLEAU KITCHEN AND BAR

South Coast Plaza’s shiny new addition categorizes its cuisine as New American—a hazy designation for chef-owner John Park’s canny brunch and dinner menus that defy easy labels. Think fried burrata sandwich with pumpkin seed pesto, soufflé-light berry pancakes with chamomile whipped cream, and shrimp and grits with surprise slices of lap cheong. Desserts are dazzlers. Captivating cocktails. 3333 Bear St., 714-872-8054. $$

TERRACE BY MIX MIX

Canny chef-owner Ross Pangilinan leverages the success of his original Mix Mix

Kitchen Bar in downtown Santa Ana with this minimalist aerie overlooking the stylish Bridge of Gardens skywalk at South Coast Plaza. This venue lacks a full bar, but it has wine and beer and is open daily with ample free parking. Fans love the three-course lunch for $20, but weekend brunch with its mimosa cart beguiles, and dinner offers the best prix fixe in the center. Don’t-miss dishes include Asian ribs, hamachi crudo, and pork cheek adobo. 3333 Bear

St., 657-231-6447. $$ Butternut squash agnolotti at Terrace by Mix Mix

VACA

Top chef Amar Santana and partner Ahmed Labbate return to Costa Mesa with an exuberant, singular ode to Spain. Santana offers peerless jamon Iberico, lush bomba rice for paellas, and verdant Mahon gin for cocktails. Dozens of authentic tapas beg to be tried, but do consider excellent wood-grilled steaks, dry-aged in-house. Dinner tables at prime times are scarce, so plan, wait, or aim for lunch. 695 Town

Center Drive, 714-463-6060. $$$

TUSTIN

CENTRO STORICO

Old Town Tustin’s new kid on the old block transforms a vintage building into a spaghetteria and bar, plus a back-pocket cafe. Artisan, fresh daily pasta is the latest effort from the Pozzuoli family behind Centro, the excellent micro pizzeria next door. Signature dishes include Capperi e

Olive (casarecca), Aglione (bucatini), and grilled porterhouse. 405 El Camino Real., 714-258-8817. $$

CHAAK

Gabbi and Ed Patrick of Gabbi’s Kitchen chose Old Town to show off the county’s most sophisticated take on the regional fare of Mexico’s wondrous Yucatán Peninsula, naming their new location after the Mayan rain god. The dazzling space features a retractable roof and sliding Roman shades to lovely effect. Must-have dishes include sikil pec, a roasted pumpkin seed dip, as well as cochinita pibil and carne cruda. A 16-seat bar invites lingering over elaborate cocktails or a glass from an uncommonly diverse wine list. 215 El Camino

Real, 657-699-3019. $$$

ROMA D’ ITALIA

Old Town’s durable red-sauce joint keeps fans coming for family-recipe meatballs, pizzas, parmigianas, and pastas. Casual digs include the red-checked tablecloths, and shakers of crushed pepper. Good for groups and speedy work lunches. 611 El Camino

Real, 714-544-0273. $

THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

The O.C. power crowd doesn’t care that this isn’t a winery, but a huge, handsome restaurant that attracts disciples of steak, wine, and cigars. They’re exactly the folks you’d expect would follow partners JC Clow and William Lewis and executive chef

Yvon Goetz. Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. If the 7,500-bottle wine cellar isn’t enough, you can always purchase a private wine locker. 2647 Park

Ave., 714-258-7600. See Newport Beach location. $$$

THE YELLOW CHILLI

The Yellow Chilli is another franchise by Sanjeev

Kapoor, India’s mega-celebrity chef. The massive menu proves the master chef isn’t stingy with recipes, not after writing more than 150 cookbooks.

Knowledgeable servers help navigate the options.

Don’t miss Sham Savera, one of Kapoor’s most famous creations: open-face spinach dumplings filled with fresh white paneer that float in silky tomato gravy spiked with garlic, cardamom, and mace. 2463 Park Ave., 714-389-5280. $$

ZOV’S TUSTIN BISTRO

Fans love Zov Karamardian’s modern, creative way with Mediterranean flavors. Zov keeps her flagship venue fresh and stylish. Expect

Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. The patio cafe out back stays busy at lunch and weekend breakfast. 17440 E. 17th

St., 714-838-8855. See Newport Coast location. $$$

YORBA LINDA

BLUE AGAVE

Southwestern favorites, from tamales to carnitas, and mole enchiladas in generous portions, keep regulars coming back. Try the Puerto Nuevo tostada with shrimp, mahi-mahi, sour cream, and raspberries in a pumpkin seed-citrus dressing. 18601 Yorba

Linda Blvd., 714-970-5095. $$