THE BIG DELIGHTS OF BIG SUR

Jagged cliffs, stunning views, and a thriving culinary scene are just some of the reasons to jump in the car and head north.

BY CAROLE DIXON

On a hazy day, the rugged green coastline of Big Sur in Monterey County could double for the Irish coast or the Scottish Highlands.

The crisp fresh air and mostly untouched surroundings dotted with a few top resorts and restaurants are a perfect setting any time of year for a culinary and whisky-quaffing getaway. The perfect starting point should be the Alila Ventana amid redwood-covered grounds with pockets of heather, lavender, and sea holly.

Executive Chef Zachary Ladwig, newly helming flagship The Sur House, has spent the past 20 years working in Michelin-starred establishments such as Bouley (conceived by chef David Bouley) and Gordon Ramsay at The London in New York. Most recently, he worked at Relais & Châteaux properties Dunton Hot Springs and The Inn at Dos Brisas in Texas.

Using classic French techniques in the kitchen, menus range from haute cuisine tasting dinners to fried chicken sandwiches at lunch and tofu veggie scrambles at breakfast. Ladwig is fulfilling a lifelong dream of living and working in the area, and he collaborates with local foragers and sustainable farmers for ingredients such as Monterey squid, 38-North Sonoma duck, and caramelized salsify—he always seems to “know a guy” who can deliver while taking advantage of the abundance of local ingredients, from the on-site organic gardens to the sea.

There are plenty of venues on the grounds for private dinners or specialized tasting menus from the Glass House with an ocean view to the private The Loft or Fireside Room. On crisp evenings, around every corner is a roaring fireplace, whether in the Sky Terrace, lobby lounge social room with board games, or the library. The bar in The Sur House has a hearth for sitting and sipping the finest peaty Highland Park single-malt scotch by the dram or in a cocktail. This area shares similarities in climate and terrain to the Scottish isle of Orkney where the spirit is produced.

If you prefer something a little milder, the resort carries a wide selection from the San Gabriel Valley–based Art of Tea, offered in your room, the lobby, spa, and at the restaurant.

Sur Things

When you are not hiking or gazing out at Pfeiffer Beach, try the Big Sur Smokehouse near the Ventana resort entrance for classic barbeque with a California twist. Other must stops in the area include Sierra Mar’s landand sea-focused menu at the Post Ranch Inn during sunset; Big Sur Bakery for breakfast; and Nepenthe for the famed ambrosia burger.

Either way, you can work up an appetite hiking around the grounds, engaging in falconry, axe throwing, or taking a craft class such as soap making or botanical pours. And do not miss the clothing-optional Japanese tubs for a pre- or post-dinner soak under the stars, or nightly s’mores by the campfire. alilahotels.com

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