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READY-TO-WEAR AUTUMN 2020 IN MODE MAGAZINE

BY DANIEL

Op-Ed | A Racist Incident at Fashion Week

Why This Black-Owned Beauty Brand Doesn’t Need Sephora

Fixing the Whitewashed Influencer Economy

Chanel Sees Trouble Through 2021: What Happens Now?

How Luxury Brands Sell ‘Exclusive’ Goods by the Millions

How to Navigate the Workplace as a Minority Voice

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Chapter 1

September Fashion Show A few of fashion’s biggest names may have already ditched the Fashion Week schedule, but Burberry’s Riccardo Tisci isn’t ready to say goodbye just yet. This September, Burberry is taking its spring 2021 collection to the great outdoors to digitally debut the Burberry in Nature runway show.

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he immersive experience, set for September 17 will be completely carbon neutral, and serve as Burberry’s way to “reconnect with nature and each other.” Where fashion shows used to be invite-only, this digital experience is open to everyone. “As humans, we have always had a deep affinity to nature. We have had to respect and rely upon its power for our very existence, whilst marveling and celebrate these feelings by bringing our community together in a creative experience that takes place within the beautiful, natural landscape of Britain.” Speaking to WWD about the future of fashion shows, Tisci explained that he believes designers shouldn’t forgo the fashion week schedule, but rethink their strategies because “we must recognize that the world is changing, and we must adapt and redefine our landscape through new forms of expression. Ultimately, to me, it will always be important to keep a physicality to fashion, to be able to see and understand the texture and movements of clothes, but in new ways.” Sure, there have lately been the welcome rumblings of a backlash against the if-you-can-do-it-all-youcan-have-it-all algorithm, a recipe (myth? con?) for general despair and a free-floating sense of failure. Women are pushing back against the idea that we are not only supposed to meet every challenge, we are supposed to do it with grace, without the unsexy discomfort of effort. While that may be an impossible standard, the boilersuit is, at least, not going to get in the way of whatever’s on your to-do list.

“Tisci is one of the few designers with concrete plans for the upcoming September fashion schedule. Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Saint Laurent and more have already announced plans to skip the upcoming fashion circuit; Pyer Moss will host movie screenings and release a limited-edition collection tied to the movie experience. Earlier, in May, Gucci announced it will show on July 17 during Milan Digital Fashion Week and with plans to only show twice a year from now on.”

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A lot has changed since Meghan Markle and Prince Harry’s October 2018 royal tour of Australia—consider this a contender for Understatement of The Year—but one fashion item remains steadfast: the crisp, white Veja sneakers Meghan wore while the two were seen on a boat. The French-based brand soared to immediate relevance— ELLE UK reported that searches for the fair-trade shoe brand shot up by 113% that month alone. More recently in 2020, the sneakers were sported by the likes of Katie Holmes and Reese Witherspoon, continuing celebrity’s love affair with Veja’s minimal kicks. Those who’ve spent hours trying to hunt down a marked down pair (shyly raises hand) already know that the brand almost never goes on sale. I have lucky news for those waiting for an internet miracle: Amazon just kicked off its Big Style Sale and Veja is being sold for up to 37 percent off its retail value. Beyond its star-powered list of endorsers, there’s much for consumers to love about Veja. The company offers full transparency into their manufacturing process and all of the shoes are made in a factory in Brazil that honors workers’ rights. Below, every pair of Vejas you can find marked down right now. Trust us when we say these will definitely sell out fast.

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All The Bes Spring 2 Fashion Campai

st 2020 n igns Fashion has long prized show over utility, tossing aside practicality in favor of art and fancy. But the needle is moving: Thanks to street style and Instagram, reality is now the runway. In an age held in thrall to ideals of multitasking and efficiency, where celebrities are papped running errands “just like us,” the boilersuit—optimization on a hanger—is arguably the power suit du jour. It’s the ultimate triumph of fashion-as-life-hack.

“Today’s suits look like they know how to fix a carburetor while swilling a champagne cocktail”

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BY DANIEL

“Today’s suits look like they know how to fix a carburetor while swilling a champagne cocktail”

Is The Boilersuit The New Power Suit?

Chapter 1

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Paris Fashion Week Will Go Ahead With Physical Shows in the Fall

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oday, Rosie’s heirs have made it off the factory floor and onto the runway, where that same cando spirit prevails. For fall, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri cooked up a quilted boilersuit that was as utilitarian as it was refined; at Salvatore Ferragamo, Paul Andrew’s take on the look, rendered in tobacco-hued leather, conjured simultaneous toughness and elegance; and Isabel Marant’s khaki version, collarless and strong-shouldered, emanated both power and ease—along with a sense that there is power in ease. Today’s suits look like they know how to fix a carburetor while swilling a champagne cocktail. They even found a celebrity ambassador recently in the form of Irina Shayk, making her first paparazzi appearance post–Bradley Cooper breakup in a military style from Burberry: the perfect look for parachuting her way into singlehood. “Today’s suits look like they know how to fix a carburetor while swilling a champagne cocktail”

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Exclusive: Up Close With L’Oréal Paris’s New Muse Katherine Langford “The Australian actress talks beauty must-haves, Hollywood royalty and career-defining roles” “I feel very lucky to be able to work with some of the best people out there. My teams is amazing, and have come up with some incredible looks. They are true geniuses. It kicks off with my stylist Molly Dickson, and I work with hairstylist Christian Wood a lot. He and I have a combined love and obsession with old Hollywood, so we sample a lot of inspiration from there. He’s the one that came up with my 2018 Golden Globes look, which is one of my favourite looks to date!”

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FACE & BODY

Exclusive: Up Close With L’Oréal Paris’s New Muse Katherine Langford The Australian actress talks beauty must-haves, Hollywood royalty and career-defining roles. By Natasha Bruno Date June 23, 2020 Katherine Langford has a brand new gig, and while it may not be able to snag her another Golden Globes Award nomination, it does add her name to an impressive roster of lauded global ambassadors such as Viola Davis, Céline Dion, Eva Longoria and Helen Mirren. Today, beauty behemoth L’Oréal Paris has named the 24-year-old actress as the brand’s newest face. The Perth, Australia-born breakout star is famously known for playing Hannah Baker in the 2017 Netflix hit series 13 Reasons Why, as well as starring in the 2018 coming-of-age teen drama Love, Simon. What’s more, Langford plays the lead role in the upcoming Netflix series Cursed (dropping in July), a TV adap

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astering Quarantine Style at Home With the Nicholls Family

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When lockdown hit, the FASHION team suddenly had to find new ways to create art for our Summer issue. One ideal scenario would be to find a fashion photographer who lives with a model. Award-winning FASHION contributor Chris Nicholls immediately came to mind. Nicholls was holed up in Toronto with his wife, Lorca Moore, who works with Nicholls as a highly-skilled post-production artist and is also a professional model who has appeared in FASHION many times over the years. The first cover the couple worked on together was Winter 1995, and four years later, Nicholls photographed Moore when she was pregnant with their son, Alden. Even better, their daughter, Finlay, is also a model. So the family’s backyard and roof was turned into a set and they got to work,

with clothing collected and sent over by Creative and Fashion Director George Antonopoulos. Check out the Nicholls family photoshoot to see how they master quarantine style below: Michael Kors has unveiled a new design for his ‘Love’ T-shirt in support of COVID-19 relief efforts, specifically those being undertaken by the World Food Programme (WFP). All profits from the sale of each unisex shirt (which features the word love written in light blue on a white background) will be donated to the WFP to help its work in delivering food to children in need across the world. Each purchase is the equivalent of 100 meals and Kors will donate up to two million meals to the WFP.

by Daniel Phan

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FashTips ion On How to Ditance-Source Your Next Vintage Find

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Know Your Sources “Flea markets and summer yard sales are on hold. There are no day trips to antique malls, and standbys like Nova Scotia’s stalwart used-clothing store Guy’s Frenchys are temporarily closed. Instead, we’re left to virtually scratch our itch to thrift. Vintage shopping online requires a well-thoughtout approach – whether you’re motivated by the thrill of the chase or have a zero-waste-wardrobe goal, here are some tips for taking your treasure hunt virtual.” by Daniel Phan

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s many parts of Canada tentatively move into stage two of reopening, restaurants and bars are starting to be given the green light to reopen. And whilst weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re thrilled that patios will be coming back into our lives, there is undoubtedly some hesitation from consumers and workers alike in regards to safety â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which is why Labatt Breweries has teamed up with Toronto-based fashion brand Pink Tartan to create 135,000 non-medical face masks to be donated to restaurants across Canada. The face masks (which are washable and made with 100% cotton with a poly-cotton interior) are part of reopening kits being distributed. As I got older, I started learning about the ways that Cree people used clothingâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;how it represented the different animals that were around, or the different types of artwork, clothing and that became their story.

Know Your Sources “With social distancing still in place, we’re left to virtually scratch our itch to thrift. Here’s how to nail the art of hunting from home.”

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The face masks (which are washable and made with 100% cotton with a poly-cotton interior) are part of reopening kits being distributed to Labatt’s restaurant partners (which also include hand sanitizer, sanitizer towers and social distancing signage) as well as Food Banks Canada. Speaking with FASHION about the collaboration, Pink Tartan designer Kim Newport-Mimran, said, “When Labatt approached us, we loved their idea to partner on stylish face masks to support employees at bars, restaurants and Food Banks Canada. I wanted to do something that could be worn by anyone. I also wanted to define the

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partnership between Labatt and Pink Tartan – two iconic Canadian companies – and capture the strong, sense of Canadian pride that we all share.” As for her designs, Newport-Mimran said, “I came up with three Canadiana-inspired designs, a red and black buffalo check pattern, a Canadian poppy print and my signature graphic quatrefoil pattern both on a denim base, signifying the Canadian tuxedo. I’m thrilled with how they turned out. I can’t wait to see them in use on local and national restaurant patios in the near future.

C A M PA I G N STYLE

There’s a Global Effort Behind Goodee’s New Tote Made in collaboration with the United Nations Ethical Fashion Initiative and Italian social co-operative Cartiera, the new Bassi Market tote from Goodee is truly the result of a meeting of the minds. Not only is it crafted with handwoven textiles made by artisans connected by social co-operatives in Burkina Faso but its design was conceived by Goodee’s founders, Montreal’s Byron and Dexter Peart, who launched the renowned luxury brand Want Les Essentiels (best known for its selection of natty handbags). The tote’s launch is another feather in the cap of the Peart brothers, who saw their marketplace brand earn enviable B Corp certification earlier this year. “As a company founded on principles of sustainability and mindful connection to our world, becoming a certified B Corp felt like a natural fit from day one,” said co-founder Byron Peart at the time of the prestigious announcement. “It validates our raison d’être—to create a world where caring for people and the planet comes first—and ensures we always live up to the high standards we’ve set for ourselves.” In addition to its work with the United Nations Ethical Fashion Initiative and Cartiera, Goodee has partnered with fellow B Corp brands like Antwerp-based children’s decor brand Ecobirdy, and Danish furniture company Skagerak.

by Odessa Paloma Parker

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SelfIsolation Diary: A Day in the Life of Amanda Brugel

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have learned more about systemic racism, slavery in Canada, accountability and even my own privilege as a fair-skinned person of colour in the last 18 days than I have in 43 years.â&#x20AC;?

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Antoni Porowski Talks Food, Fashion and Finding Simplicity During Quarantine

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ops of his personality have come from the brightly hued vintage bandanas around his neck—ones he would typically wear around his hairline while taking a run—and the quirky message shirts he’s now known for. Tees from his favourite musical acts are rooted in watching bands like Arcade Fire rise to fame in Montreal’s thriving music scene. “You can tell a lot about a person from their taste in music—kind of like food,” he says.

boasts the names of influential women in the art world, like Louise Bourgeois and Yayoi Kusama, and one featuring the logo from Montreal’s Expo 67, a nod to his hometown— also tells us so much about Porowski (an avid art and design fan) without him uttering a word. “I think that’s a Canadian sensibility,” he says. “I’m not an aggressive person. I like to do things sort of covertly.”

His selection of non-music-related tops—which includes a T-shirt that

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Paris Fashion Week Will Go Ahead With Physical Shows in the Fall 26

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How Montrealâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Laugh By Lafaille is Pushing the Boundaries of Upcycling

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profits from the sale of each unisex shirt (which features the word love written in light blue on a white background) will be donated to the WFP to help its work in delivering food to children in need across the world. Each purchase is the equivalent of 100 meals and Kors will donate up to two million meals to the WFP. Usually, the WFP delivers these meals through schools, however since the COVID-19 pandemic hit and many schools were shuttered, the organization has had to find new ways to deliver its nutritional meals to the children it supports.

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How Streetwear Brand Mobilize is Encouraging an Indigenous Movement Through Design By Maddison Glendinning Date June 24, 2020 After men’s and couture fashion weeks were cancelled back in March due to the coronavirus pandemic, the fashion industry has been in a ‘will they? won’t they?’ state of flux ever since when it comes to the Spring 2021 fashion week schedule. And despite numerous brands signalling that they will not participate in upcoming fashion weeks or adhere to the traditional fashion calendar, Paris Fashion Week Spring 2021 is officially going ahead in September of this year. The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the governing body of French fashion, announced that the Spring 2021 womenswear shows will be held from September 28 to October 6 with physical shows, supported by a digital platform. The organization said the event “will comply for its implementation to the recommendations of public authorities,” adding that “its organization will be completed by the platform set up for Paris Fashion Week online.”

“When you get people to be uncomfortable, they’ll grow.”

There has been no further information shared about what the digital platform will look like, however digital couture week is slated for July 6-8 and men’s fashion week for July 9-13 (also in a virtual capacity) so chances are we’ll get a sneak peek at the tech in the coming weeks. By Odessa Paloma Parker Date June 25, 2020

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“I think it is a timely initiative, in that it is a celebration of creative freedom and challenging the world order.”