The Fight Towards a Sustainable Planet

Finally emerging from lockdown is a wonderful feeling and many of us are excited to get back to normal and back to things we love doing. The pandemic has been a tragedy for so many, but amongst all the negativity surprisingly there was some positivity.

Throughout the relentless lockdowns, the planet was given a long-overduerest and got to reap the benefits including cleaner air and increased visibility. Due to the drop in air pollution water quality improved all over the world and fish could be seen from the once murky canals of Venice Flight bans and fewer cars on the roads due to people working from home dramatically reduced carbon emissions, and wildlife used this as an opportunity to roam free and saw goats taking over the empty streets of Llandudno. As positive as this sounds, we cannot get complacent as there the planet is still facing many urgent issues. To reduce climate change, carbon emissions and protect our oceans and wildlife sustainable lifestyle changes still need to be made.

The fashion industry has a hugely negative impact on the planet and is the second polluter in the world after oil. Many companies driven by profit choose to manufacture their garments overseas, which has a damaging effect caused by the increase in waste and CO2 emissions. The fashion industry is also a massive consumer of water which is used for dyeing and the finishing of garments. To put this into perspective it takes around 3000 litres of water to produce a cotton shirt and as a result, the industry is the third-largest user of water. The most dangerous aspect of this industry is “fast fashion” which sadly

By Sarah Ridgway

dominates the industry and is a term to describe cheap and affordable clothing based on current trends. Fast fashion can be designed very quickly, manufactured en masse, and shipped to the consumer at lighting speed. Whereas clothes shopping used to be a special event and done seasonally dependent on a budget we are now shopping more than ever. The 1990s changed buying habits when cheap mass-produced garments flooded the market providing the consumer with the latest trends at rock bottom prices. Sadly, this has created a “throwaway” culture and many items will be worn just a few times and when the trends change will be thrown away.

In the UK up to £140m worth of clothing is sent to landfill every year which amounts to 300,000 tonnes. According to Greenpeace “since 2000 we buy twice as much clothing and wear it only half the time”. Worryingly landfills are now receiving large amounts of brandnew clothing that were possibly customer returns as companies look for the easiest way to dispose of their stock. This is especially sad as these items could be recycled, distributed to a charity, or given directly to people in need.

Many items received at the recycling centres are deemed unwearable due to their poor quality and part of the fast fashion trend. Fortunately, the higher quality clothing can be mended, reused, and resold and the consumer gets longer wear out of it.

The industry’s textile production is responsible for global emissions equal to 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 each year and is producing a carbon footprint bigger than all international flights and shipping combined. The fast-fashion brands leading the way are Zara and H&M, with Zara having almost 3000 stores globally.

The brand produces multiple collections a year and its owner Amancio Ortega is the sixth richest person in the world. These large companies can make huge profits by manufacturing overseas. We have become so accustomed to our clothing labels being made in another country that many of us do not question further. These massive profits, unfortunately, do not always translate into fair pay and safe environments for the foreign workers and many are exploited and, in some cases, killed due to unsafe conditions.

On 24 April 2013, the Rana Plaza building in Dhaka, Bangladesh collapsed. The eight-story building which housed five garment factories crashed down killing 1,134 people and injuring thousands. The factories made garments for brands including Primark, Mango and Benetton. The day before the tragedy, structural cracks had been discovered in the building, but the factory owners chose to ignore this. The following day thousands of workers arrived at work and within hours the building had collapsed. The tragic event brought global attention to the dangerous and unsafe conditions the thirst for cheap and quickly produced clothing provides.

Despite these workers being essential to these fashion giants in many factories, there is still a lack of human rights and fair pay.

It is not just overseas where these injustices occur, last year fast-fashion giant Boohoo came under fire when one of their suppliers in Leicester was accused of malpractice on the factory floor. An undercover reporter found that staff were being paid £3.50 an hour when the minimum wage for over 25 is £8.72. There were also further reports of the factory not being covid safe with workers not wearing masks. The modern slavery scandal was met with the wrath of consumers who demanded better from them and it damaged their reputation. It was a wake-up call that these situations can happen anywhere and that we need to be more mindful of where we buy our clothes.

Sustainable fashion companies design and manufacture their clothes in an environmentally friendly way.

This includes the materials they use such as recycled, organic, and vegan alternatives to leather and fur. They also minimise their water use, and toxic chemicals and many brands are using biodegradable fabrics meaning the materials can be broken down over time. To be considered fully biodegradable the product must be able to decompose fully within a year. Weekday, which is a brand by H&M has announced an innovative way to minimise the toxic dyeing process and are releasing a plant-hemp based denim range dyed with avocados and red onions. Many sustainable companies also manufacture overseas but on a smaller scale and prioritise fair pay, workers’ rights, and safe working environments.

By working with underprivileged communities, it provides employment opportunities and fair pay to help break the cycle of poverty. Slower production and smaller batches can also produce zero waste. By focusing on buying better quality items that will last, it is kinder to the planet and provides ethical working conditions.

SUSTAINABLE CONSUMPTION

Sustainable consumption is the use of products that have the minimal impact on the environment the driving force behind consumption includes rapid population growth which is expected to reach 9 billion by 2050. Also, the rise in affluence across the world, the middle class are expected to triple by 2030 so have more money to spend.

But consumer attitudes are changing and are becoming more aware and concerned about the environment and are willing to make the relevant changes. But there are still many consumers that prioritise affordability and convenience over ethics.

A positive impact of consumption is the cork industry in Portugal When the oak is harvested for cork it absorbs 4.8 million tonnes of C02 equivalent to 5% of the country’s total carbon dioxide emissions. It is a strange concept to take in that consuming this material it is helping preserve the planet. Ethical brands Wolf & Badger are using the cork from the forests of Portugal to make products such as mobile phone cases and other accessories. Other companies give back by planting trees when you make a purchase such as Sapling Vodka. They have pledged to plant a tree for every bottle purchased and are creating an environmentally friendly brand that helps to combat carbon emissions. There is a tree tracker on their website that allows the consumer to find exactly where their tree was planted. QuiQuattro is a lifestyle brand that donates 10% of its proceeds to women’s education in Turkey and creates employment opportunities for the local artisans. Menswear band Outerknown is committed to the preservation and protection of the ocean and donates 100% of the profits it makes from ITSNOTOK range to support Ocean Conservancy. WHAT CAN I DO TO BE MORE SUSTAINABLE?

Shop Less! Ask yourself do I really need this, or do I have something already, if not can I borrow something. Buy second-hand: The UKs charity shops contain hidden treasures in fantastic condition and your purchase is not only sustainable but also a donation to charity. There are great options online to buy second-hand clothes from including Depop, Vinted and eBay. This week Asda announced their partnership with PreLoved Vintage and will be selling second-hand clothing in their stores to help cut down on textile waste. It has already been trialled successfully in Leeds and the chain has 632 more stores nationwide so is a very positive move toward reducing the landfills. Buy from a sustainable brand If you want something new then choose to shop with a sustainable brand as you will be getting a high-quality item with longevity. Most importantly you are also supporting a company that cares and playing your part towards a more sustainable planet.