cinque terre
beginner’s guide and itinerary
Cinque Terre Italian Riviera
The Cinque Terre means “The Five Lands.� It is comprised of five villages along the western coast of Italy.
Getting Here By Plane
The best airports to fly into are Pisa (1:20 by train), Genoa (1:20 by train) or Florence (2:00 by train).
the cinque terre
an introduction
Some people think the Cinque Terre is just one place — but that’s a mistake. First, understand that the word is used to describe an area of land, not one place. Don’t waste your time trying to see train schedules for the “Cinque Terre”. Similarly, don’t get confused trying to book a hotel in the “Cinque Terre”. There are five main villages that make up the zone — so before you plan your stay you’ve gotta figure out which of the five villages you want to stay in. If you’re looking at the map, the Cinque Terre is located just north of the Tuscan border and takes a few hours on the train from either Florence (to the south) or Milan (to the north). If you’re flying into Italy and will be visiting the Cinque Terre
first, the best airports are Pisa (easiest), Genoa or Florence. If you want to hike between all the villages, there is really no reason to walk with all your belongings to each of the villages and change hotels. I recommend doing day hikes between the villages (you could hike them all in one big day, then take the train back), and leave your gear at your hotel for the day. One last thing: the Cinque Terre is actually a national park, a protected waterway and a Unesco World Heritage site. Most vehicle traffic is restricted inside the villages. This explains why the area is preserved so well and has a way of transporting you to a simpler time — a time before neon McDonald’s signs and other eyesores of modern life.
Cinque Terre Traveling by Train
There is a regional train that travels between each of the 5 villages making it easy and convenient to visit some or all.
the five towns
a quick guide
RIOMAGGIORE Riomaggiore is the southern most town of the five Cinque terre. Also boasting the biggest of the five town, it has one main street, a harbour, a rocky beach, a castle, a church, a pharmacy, and a dozen restaurants. It also has good train connections and is the closest to the main city of La Spezia.
MANAROLA Heading north from Riomaggiore is the second village called Manarola. It’s also a one street town, with a small harbour where you can swim. Get ready for photos — it has an incredible spit of land where the most famous Cinque Terre photos are taken. Manarola is the smallest village; the baby of the family .
CORNIGLIA
against pirates, a gorgeous waterfront The middle child of the piazza and a harbour family is Corniglia. She’s a with a spit of sand I would rebel. She’s built far above even call a beach. the ocean on the cliffs, rather than on the water. MONTEROSSO To arrive in Corniglia you AL MARE gotta hoof it up the 365 The northernmost village steps (one for each day is called Monterosso al of the year) to reach the Mare. She’s the biggest center of town. If you have kid in the family, and excessive luggage don’t she has many streets stay here. But saying and even (gasp!) cars that, it’s where to go to driving in the village. get away from it all. Her landscape isn’t as vertical as her other VERNAZZA sisters, you could even The beauty queen of the spend the entire day Cinque Terre is named not climbing hills and Vernazza. This village is stairs. Monterosso is the most popular girl at made up of an old town, school; everyone wants a new town, lots of sandy to hang out with her beaches, some larger and be her friend. She’s hotels and a long seaside incredibly photogenic. promenade suitable for Vernazza is a one street strollers too. If you want town with a church built to avoid stairs and have a on the water. She has a more “resort” feel to your castle, the remains of the vacation then you should old wall that protected book your stay here.
where to start
step-by-step
STEP 1: PICK A VILLAGE. The first thing you gotta do to plan your Cinque Terre stay is to choose one of the village as your home base. Don’t get overly caught up in which village to stay, they are all wonderful - and all the villages are close. Like really close. It takes between three and twenty five minutes by train to travel between them. There are also walking trails that connect them.
STEP 2: HOW LONG ARE YOU STAYING? The second thing you gotta do to plan your Cinque Terre stay is decide how long you’re staying. I recommend two nights minimum — three is a great start. The
itinerary that follows is for four days and three nights. If you have more time visit the Italian Fix website where we offer tours to the Cinque Terre for six nights. (And no one ever wants to leave.)
STEP 3: CHOOSE WHERE TO SLEEP. The fanciest hotels are in Monterosso. A great option in the region is taking advantage of the many private apartments for rent. There are also B&B’s and hostels. You can rent an apartment for 60-120 euro a night. Truly, it’s amazing what you can get for 80 euros a night here, but book ahead. For more itineraries and information on Cinque Terre activities, visit http://italianfix.com/travel.
the itinerary four day trip guide
DAY ONE
Airbnb
Riomaggiore Live like a local - enjoy stepping out of your front door into the street below by booking and staying at an Airbnb.
La Lanterna Via S. Giacomo, Riomaggiore
Italian comfort food overlooking the marina
Check-in to your hotel or AirBNB. Maybe you’ve had a big travel day so go stare at the ocean and drink a glass of local wine at A Pie’ de Ma’. This is my favorite drink spot in the whole world and a visit here is mandatory to your Cinque Terre experience. My recommended tipple is either local white wine, prosecco or the specialty from this area called Sciacchetra — a fortified wine made from
A Pie’ de Ma’ Riomaggiore
Take the stairs at the train station & you’ll find it after a 3 minute walk.
dry grapes of the hillsides you’re surrounded by. After that I would cruise down to the marina. Gather at the agave plant and watch the sunset over the harbour. Head to dinner at La Lanterna, overlooking the marina. You’ll love the beautiful stone interior and the Ligurian comfort food it serves.
DAY TWO Rise and shine because it’s a beautiful day and you have nothing to do except enjoy it. Head down to the village and catch the morning action. Drink a coffee on the main (and only!) street. Then head to the beach in Riomaggiore for a morning swim. To find the beach of Riomaggiore, go down
to the marina (take the steps you’ll find on the left at the bottom of Via Colombo). When you reach the marina take the stairs to the left and it will pass the ferry dock. Just past there, you’ll find a beach. The beach is rocky, not sandy. At first, the rocks look uncomfortable, but you can arrange them until you create a nice little nest. I love that beach cause it’s mellow. If you need pure relaxation, just spend the day there. But but if you want to be active, hike up to the Santuario di Montenero. It’s about 3 hours round trip. Another swimming spot is in the next village over. Take the train to Manarola and head down to the harbour. You can cliff jump, or just join the Italians who set up camp
on the boat launch. If you keep walking north along the walking path jutting out to the point, you’ll be rewarded with views fit for a postcard. There’s also a playground if you’re traveling with children. And a killer cocktail spot, called Nessun Dorma. (If you’re traveling with children you’ll definitely need a cocktail right about now.)
Da Billy Manarola
Great dinner spot serving fresh seafood each day and other local favorites.
Eat at Da Billy — but bring your walking legs cause it’s up the hill, but rewards are a great view. Another Manarola option is on the main drag, with no stairs: Trattoria il Porticciolo. After dinner head down to the local’s hangout with live music most nights — Cantina dello Zio Bramante. Train home. The walking path called Via dell’Amore is still closed as of now (current as of March 2015).
Trattoria il Porticciolo Manarola
If you are looking for great food — and no stairs to climb!
Cantina dello zio Bramante Manarola
Local hotspot for live music most nights of the week
DAY THREE If you haven’t heard, the Cinque Terre is famous for its walking paths. Hiking the Cinque Terre trails is a wonderful thing to do, and there are trails weaving all over the region. Some are paid trails (it’s 7.50 for a daypass), and some are not. My favorite trails are: Riomaggiore to Portovenere (free but long) and Monterosso to Levanto (free). My other favorite ones are Monterosso to Vernazza and Vernazza to Corniglia, but you’ll need a trail pass for these. They are both suited to beginners and lazy hikers, although promise me you’ll not wear flip flops on the trail. As the signs also say, don’t wear high heels. Glad they pointed that out.
to the next village of Vernazza. In Monterosso you can swim at the beach and visit the old and new town. Bring a backpack and water for your hike. Live like a local and grab a piece of focaccia for lunch, or my favorite, focaccia di recco. Try the farinata too (it’s gluten free).
Monterosso al Mare
The most resort-like of the Cinque Terre — rent a chair, sit back, and relax.
Spend your hike afterglow in the village of Vernazza. It’s another one street town, and it’s pretty interesting as it’s been under extensive repairs after a landslide in 2011. It’s a lovely place to spend the afternoon. For dinner, eat at my favourite seaside restaurant in all of the villages. You’ll find it down at the marina. They could have a spot on the lower balcony, if not take the high one. If the sea is
For just a taste of the trails, I would suggest the section from Monterosso to Vernazza. You can train from Riomaggiore to Monterosso, visit the village of Monterosso, and then hike the trail
Monterosso Beach
Hiking Trail Monterosso to Vernazza
You will need a trail pass but the views – and ease of this trail (only 3km) – is well worth it.
Hiking Trail
Riomaggiore to Portovenere This trail is free but gear up for a long day — the distance between is 14.2 KM.
rough you’ll be cooled off with sea spray.
Ristorante Belforte Vernazza
Go to where the boats are tied up and you will spot the stairs on the left.
Train Tickets Buy and Validate
You can buy your tickets the day before to avoid a long line — and don’t forget to validate your ticket before you board!
, Genoa or into France — then you should get off the train at Bonassola. For dinner, eat at It has an amazing beach Ristorante Belforte, Via G. and an adorable town. I Guidoni, Vernazza. (The love spending an entire very Italian directions: go afternoon here; you can to where the boats are rent a beach umbrella tied up, and you’ll spot and beach chair and love the stairs on the left.) summer like the rest of the Italians. It is the most DAY FOUR underrated town of the area and worth a visit. Parting is such sweet sorrow. BONASSOLA If you’re traveling today, You can take the train a great idea is to buy to Bonassola or walk your train ticket the day or even bike. If you earlier. That way, when choose to walk or bike, you show up to the there is a walking/biking train, it won’t matter if there’s a long line up, you path directly from Levanto to Bonassola. won’t miss your train! A series of tunnels Be sure to “validate” your run along the path. tickets by inserting it Exploring the area can into the machines on the be tackled in about 2 platform on your day of hours (or less!). When travel, or you could risk you arrive, pop into a fine. If your travels take you north, to Milan, Turin Caffe Delle Rose at Via Rezzano 22 for some gelato before heading down to Bar Lungomare at Via Rezzano for delicious local fare.
Bonassola beach town
Bike to Bonassola and enjoy a day of fun at the beach. Rent an umbrella and beach chair and spend the day relaxing!
Afterwards, pop on down to the beach for swimming, rock jumping, or fishing before heading on to your next adventure.
recommendations at-a-glance
BEST TIMES TO GO
Spring or Fall
WHERE TO GO IF YOU
have more time
When you go, you don’t want to arrive in Milan in December in a jean jacket (like me) — you also don’t want to arrive in April in Florence without a rain jacket. If you arrive in Cinque Terre on August 15th, make sure you have a room reservation.
...The market in La Spezia (Fridays) or at Forte Dei Marmi (Wednesdays) for discount clothes and shoes... ...The market in Levanto, (Wednesdays) for food and clothes...
DON’T FORGET YOUR
hiking shoes
Though many parts of the trail are easy-walking, you’ll be thankful for hiking shoes over flip flops or sandals.
IF YOU WANT A
quick day trip Take the train to Sestri Levante Take the train to Bonassola. Take the ferry to Portovenere.
IF YOU WANT TO
enjoy local fare
Drive to Lerici and Tellaro (if you have a car).
Grab a bottle of local wine and head to the market to pack a perfect picnic basket.
IF YOU WANT TO
get your sea legs
Head to the port and sign up for a sailing trip around the harbor complete with lunch and wine.
FOR MORE IDEAS, VISIT
cinqueterre.com
credits
Copy amended from Lonely Planet, ItalianFix.com, and Wikipedia Photos courtesy of Lauren Sturla Womack, Ottavioviaggi.com, and Xeldennalydia.blogspot.com