6 minute read
Caves, Coffee, and Culture: Houaphan Has It All
Words and Images by Mick Shippen
Xam Neua’s Route 6 rolls gently toward Vieng Xay through a rugged mountainous terrain of limestone karst, their sharp and craggy peaks softened by thick blankets of forest cover. Rice paddies, pushed into any available flat and fertile ground, are sown with the province’s famous khao kai noi (little chick) sticky rice. In the cool season, when the harvest has been gathered, the roadside verges are bejeweled with the vibrant yellow blooms of sunflowers. It’s a bucolic landscape and a joy to travel through.
It’s hard to imagine that from 1964 until 1973, American bombs rained down on this rural idyll as part of a secret war against communism. Undeterred, leaders of the Pathet Lao established a command center in the numerous caves that pock the mountains here. It was a huge undertaking. From within this impenetrable area, they built a fuel depot, a hospital, schools, a printing press, and even a theater to keep soldiers and their families entertained. It is thought at one time 200 caves were occupied, providing shelter for up to 20,000 soldiers and local farmers.
A visit to the caves at Vieng Xay is truly insightful. Twice daily tours take visitors to the cave where Kaysone Phomvihane, the first leader of the Lao People's Revolutionary Party, convened the Politburo, and to many other sites of interest. When the American bombing ceased with the signing of the Paris Accord in 1973, the leadership, including Prince Souphanouvong, a key figure during the revolution and known in the West as the Red Prince, moved out of the caves and built houses nearby. Today, Vieng Xay, or Victory City, is known as the political heartland of Laos.
The caves at Vieng Xay are 30 km from Xam Neua, and the scenery makes it a wonderful journey by bicycle or scooter. Tours of the cave are available twice daily; 9 a.m. to 12 noon, and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Tickets include an excellent multi-language audio commentary. Tours can be arranged at other times for an extra charge. The caves are in several locations so there is some walking involved.
Back in Xam Neua, there is more interesting history and culture to uncover. Wat Phoxay Xanaram is an exquisite old temple, lovingly looked after by a Lao monk who spent several years in Japan. In addition to the beautiful murals, the temple still has its original roof of
Cyclists can explore a network of roads and dirt trails, many with demanding steep climbs that begin just moments from the center of town. Visit hobomaps.com for information. One such road winds its way to Ban Phoun, where skilled craftswomen dye and weave traditional textiles. Houaphan Province has a well-deserved reputation as the home of Laos’ best textiles, but silk connoisseurs will have to travel 140km south from Xam Neua to Xam Tai for the finest.
To discover local ingredients, head to the main fresh market in the late afternoon. Houaphan is well known for many varieties of edible bamboo used in Xam Neua cuisine, including a slender and tender stem called nor loy. You will find ready-cooked dishes for sale at the smaller Phoxay market. There’s also an abundance of mak khaen (Sichuan pepper) and mak maad (winged prickly ash). Specialties include jeo pa bam, a punchy and spicy dip of fish, roasted chilis, garlic, and mak maad
Coffee has been grown in Laos since the 1920s when the French colonialists established the first plantations down south on the Bolaven Plateau. In recent years, however, it’s coffee from northern Laos that has been in the spotlight, with several small specialty coffee pro- ducers gaining popularity and praise here and abroad. In Houaphan, it’s the aptly named Yuni Coffee Company www.yunicoffeeco.com (yu ni means ‘it’s here’ in Lao) that has put the mountainous province on the map. Taking advantage of the north’s agreeable climate and forests, Yuni works closely with local farmers in Xam Tai to produce shade-grown coffee berries. These are then processed using modern techniques. The result is one of the best coffees you will find in Laos.
The company also exports to America and other countries. At its signature café in the center of Xam Neua, you can enjoy a flavorful brew that will have you returning for more throughout your stay. Yuni Café also sells bags of beans so you can enjoy their distinctive blends at home, and there is a small menu of Western food available throughout the day.
Xam Neua’s breakfast of champions, however, is to be found at Nha Hang Phin Thanh (02059222120), an authentic and extremely popular Vietnamese breakfast joint that offers a delightfully uncomplicated menu of just three Hanoi-style dishes: banh cuon, steamed noodle rolls filled with ground pork and wood ear mushrooms, with or without egg (and don’t miss the spicy dipping sauce); bun cha, charcoal-grilled pork patties with vermicelli noodles, fresh herbs, and lettuce in a lightly sweetened broth; and chao, rice porridge.
Xam Neua’s new Nong Khang Airport is located a 30-minute drive from town. A bus and taxi service are available at the airport.
Lao Skyway has daily flights from Vientiane to Houaphan.
