Wat Xieng Thong

Words by Anita Preston

Images by Anita Preston / Evensong Film

Walking through the old white-washed stone archways on a sunny afternoon, there is no better place to be than in the tranquil temple courtyard of Wat Xieng Thong. Bathed in golden light and long shadows from the trees the temple and its outbuildings look particularly enchanting. It’s easy to understand why Wat Xieng Thong, in English means ‘Temple of the Golden City. It is one of the most popular locations in Laos. Apart from That Luang in Vientiane, no other building is so instantly recognizable or historically significant. Closely entwined with religion and ceremony it’s a picture-perfect example of Lao temple architecture.

The sim (main hall) with its nine elegantly paneled rooftops sweeping to the ground is a building covered in artwork that shows the skill and imagination of temple artisans. Teak columns painted black and maroon with elaborate gold stenciling support a crimson roof decorated with Buddhist symbols such as the Wheel of Life. The outside of the sim also has a multitude of elaborate gold stencils showing scenes from Buddhist tales.

Lao temples are normally constructed on some ancient mythical site. The temple’s origins are said to be where two hermits founded the city and placed the boundary stones of the new settlement at a spot close to where the Khan and Mekong Rivers meet. Laos’ version of Buddhism has incorporated many older superstitious and animistic elements. Early inhabitants believed two nagas (river serpents) dwelled in the rivers close to this spot and guarded the city and therefore needed to be kept happy and appeased by offerings and devotions. This also explains nagas being used as ornaments throughout the temple.

On the rear of the sim is the stunning tree of life. Created in 1960 with colored mosaics of Japanese glass, the tree covers the entire wall. Folklore says it is based on the city founders discovering a tree that appeared to be on fire and built the town around that, hence the mirrors twinkling like flames when they catch the light. Another legend says the tree is the bodhi tree where the Buddha attained enlightenment, complete with animals such as peacocks and smaller creatures from the Buddhist teachings.

Across the courtyard from the main sim is the gilded teak funerary carriage house built in the Xieng Khouang style by artist Thit Tan and temple craftsmen in 1960. It houses the 12-meter-tall gilded funeral chariot decorated with 9 nagas used for the funeral of King Sisavangvong in April 1962. Relics such as the sandalwood urn which carried the king are placed in the center and other sacred objects such as masks from the royal family used in the recreations of Ramayana legends are displayed.

To the left of the sim, the Rose Chapel is decorated with mosaics showing religious activities as part of the daily life of Siew Sawat, a popular literary figure, completed on the 2500th anniversary of Buddha’s death. While you are here, pop your head out of the window for a photo like local.

If you visit in the morning the front of the building will be flooded with light and the architectural details will stand out. By contrast, if you go in the late afternoon the light is soft and golden with the sun setting behind the temple and the sky is awash in color and makes for a great backdrop.

As a testament to Wat Xieng Thong’s importance many festivals and official ceremonies are still focused here. It plays a major role during Awk Phansa (the end of Buddhist Lent) when the courtyards and temple are decorated with hundreds of colored lanterns and paper boats are launched into the Mekong from the steps of the temple. During Lao New Year in April, the second holiest statue after the Prabang image, the Phaman, is taken out from its chapel behind the temple and ritually bathed with water.

The temple continues to provide spiritual comfort and be a center of the community as it has been for the past five hundred years. Many locals in the area still participate in the upkeep and administration of the temple and the ticket office for visitors is manned by neighbors who still highly regard the complex as the central point of their life. Among a spiritual hierarchy consisting of scores of temples in Luang Prabang, Wat Xieng Thong is the most revered.

When you visit the temple please make sure that you dress appropriately and behave respectfully. It’s best to cover your shoulders and not to wear revealing clothing or talk loudly. Touching monks is forbidden and you must remove your shoes before entering any buildings.

TIP: Almsgiving is not only held on the main street. Every temple participates. As monks walk around the neighborhood, a good spot to see almsgiving is near the gate on the southwest side of Wat Xieng Thong. This gives you a chance to see a large number of locals offering devotions to the monks and enjoy a more authentic experience.