5 minute read
The Mystique of Phongsaly
Words and Images by Mick Shippen
ew destinations in Laos remain as enigmatic as Phongsaly. Tell friends that you are planning a trip to the far-flung northern town and the typical response will be something along the lines of, “Oh, I’ve wanted to go there for ages but just haven’t got round to it. I really must go.” A travel cliché it may be, but Phongsaly lies at the end of a road that is truly less traveled. It’s no secret that getting there requires considerable effort, planning, patience, and flexibility but for those who are willing and able, the rewards are plentiful, so yes, “you really must go.”
Phongsaly is tied to a long mountain ridge that rises 1,400 m above sea level. The altitude means that even during the hottest months of April and May, morning and evening temperatures are pleasantly cool. Come the actual cool season, temperatures plummet to a crisp Celsius in single digits, so remember to pack your fleece. During this time travelers can also witness some fantastic misty mountain scenery from their view above the clouds.
A taste of Yunnan
Wandering the steep cobbled streets of Phongsaly town’s old quarter, lined with single-storey wooden shophouses and red lanterns, you could be forgiven for thinking you are in southern China. In fact, many of the people in this part of town are Haw Chinese, descendants of traders from Yunnan, which borders Laos, a little further north. Evidence that the migrants have kept their distinctive culinary culture alive is everywhere. Chinese-style pork sausage, and a local speciality of pork, tofu, and Sichuan pepper, can be seen hanging out to dry, as can baskets of tofu (including the ominous looking and powerfully flavoured tohu yee, fermented tofu) and discs of fermented soybean cake, a key seasoning in many local dishes. Yunnan cuisine can be found at several open-fronted shophouse restaurants in town, but one of the best is Laoper. Typical of oldschool Chinese restaurants, there’s no menu. Instead, the cook ushers you to a large fridge full of market-fresh ingredients. Once you have made a choice, she speedily stir-fries them in the huge wood-fired wok in the corner of the kitchen.
For those who delight in the discovery of local flavors, one of the most interesting places to eat is at Mae Saengon restaurant which is tucked away down a side street near Nong Wat Keo pond. Sadly, the restaurant closed a few years ago (the sign remains) when Saeng-on felt she was getting too old to continue, but throughout the day her daughter sells pho som Phongsali, a fabulously tasty and fascinating Haw Chinese noodle dish that you are unlikely to find elsewhere in Laos. Served at a red metal table or two outside the former restaurant, fresh noodle sheets are deftly cut and then topped with a fermented soybean paste, ground sesame seeds, a ladleful of a cool ginger and coriander broth, and another made with som phod or Chinese sumac, which gives the dish a refreshingly sour note.
Wherever you choose to eat in Phongsali you will be served a pot of local tea. As you explore the alleyways, you will also see trays of leaves drying in the sun or being sorted by hand. Phongsali tea is renowned for its high quality and almost everything grown on the mountain slopes surrounding the town is exported to China. Tea lovers can take a day trip to the ancient plantations where some tea trees are said to be 400 years old, to see the tender leaves being picked and processed. You’ll also find the tea for sale in the shops downtown and at the local market.
Cultural melting pot
Besides premium quality tea, Phongsali’s second claim to fame is that it is the most culturally diverse province in Laos. It is home to dozens of ethnic minorities, the largest of which are the Phounoi, as well as Yao, Lolo, Tai Lue, and Khmu. There are many Akha in the area, who originally migrated from China years ago. They are one of the most colourful ethnic groups in northern Laos and each sub-group has its own distinctive headwear, jewelry, and clothing. Although you will often see the ethnic groups in Phongsali town, most still live in hard-to-reach (and hard-to-find) villages accessed by rough red dirt roads. They are best visited with the aid of a local guide on day trips or, for the physically fit, on multiday treks that include overnight homestay accommodation.
GETTING THERE
Lao Skyway flies from Vientiane to Boun Neua daily. From there you can get a bus to Phongsali (45km) or arrange for a private car through a travel agent.
