Volume 33, No.28
June 14, 2013
Student Transitions
...From Culinary to B&P BY: Anna Ungricht , AOS B&P
Culinary school can be a grueling place,
wrought with loud noise, yelling chefs, un-
Carrot Basil Crème Brule
BY: Anna Ungricht , AOS B&P 1 cup heavy cream
relenting service times, hard physical la-
1 1/8 cups store bought carrot juice
bor, and information overload. There are
3 Tablespoons brown sugar
two separate areas of study, Culinary Arts
1 small bunch basil leaf, leaves whole
and Baking and Pastry Arts. Having been
4 egg yolks
through culinary arts already, I understand
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
the fast paced and stress inducing environment. The kitchen will no doubt become un-
1. Preheat your oven to 325 F. Combine heavy cream,
bearably hot, the noise will be grating, and
carrot juice, and brown sugar in a saucepot. Bring to a sim-
food will not cook fast enough. Everything
mer. 2. Remove from heat and add basil leaves. Let basil
that happens in the kitchen is team work;
steep for about 10 minutes in the liquid.
everyone is dependent on another person
3. In a stainless steel bowl combine egg yolks and sugar,
to perform their part. Working in stress like
stir until combined.
that can be overwhelming at best; people
4. Take out the basil leaves from liquid mixture, and
thrive in that environment. Then there are those who try, but cannot handle it. The
Photo Courtesy of CIA
of stock that took two people to lift. We started
bakery has a lot less noise and permits more of a solitary work environment. A sense of urgency is just as crucial in the bake shop as in the kitchen, but the sense of needing it right now is less present. People thrive in this environment too. Our first lessons in culinary arts include the very basics such as knife cuts, stocks, soups, and cooking proteins. We dedicate hours upon hours to the fine art of knife skills. For weeks, I had nightmares about knife cuts. The next crucial lesson to learn was stocks. Every week we had enormous pots
to realize how physically grueling it can be. After stocks, we moved to soups, then to proteins including chickens, fish, beef, and finally how to cook them. There are many different ways to cook something, there is the moist heat method, the dry heat method, and some others like curing, smoking, and barbecuing. With those methods learned, the possibilities are endless.
slowly add the infused liquid to the egg mixture. 5. Once combined, pour into 8 small ramekins. 6. Place ramekins in large cake pan or deep sheet pan, and cover with tin foil. But leave a corner up to aerate. 7. Place in your oven, then pour boiling water in the cake or sheet pan, about half way up the ramekin. 8. Bake until set in the middle, about 30 to 45 minutes. 9. Once done, pull them out of the water, let cool, and then refrigerate them up to 8 hours 10. When ready to serve, cover the top with a thin layer of sugar (super fine is best) then torch the top with flame.
My friends in the culinary side of things say they rather would be in culinary than in baking. They Continued on page 4
If you don’t have a small torch, set the oven to broil place Brule on the top shelf until sugar is brown on top 11. Serve Immediately and Enjoy!
A Farewell and on to Extern
BY: Francis Maling , AOS Culinary
Sleep deprivation is really getting to me. The second part of this K-16 block is whooping me during the day time, where I get around 3-4 hours of sleep. But at least it’s almost over. As I write this article, I’m midway into completing the graveyard shift of the Culinary Program, also known as Breakfast class. Please bear with me as I try to put this “farewell article” together (I will be heading to my externship by the third week of June.)
Thankfully, the EIC of La Papillote has been patient with me regarding the deadline. But, I feel a bit discombobulated; I feel like I’ve mentally checked out of the CIA. Not to say that I didn’t learn anything throughout the few months since I started last November, but I can say that it was definitely hard work. It wasn’t just the classes in the program that were challenging, however. It was the adjustment to this life, the cutting-edge and stressful environment of the hospitality industry. Often
times, some may take it for granted, going to class day by day and just taking it in gradually, until about that time practical and test days near. For me this is not just about the grades. My daily performance in the kitchen and interaction with staff and faculty on campus is a reflection on how I will par later on post-graduation, or really even for my upcoming externship. It can really feel exhausting sometimes. Have I put myself in a difficult situation with this type of attitude? Sort of; Continued on page 6
Culinary Culture
P3
FOOD & BEVERAGE
Why do we Call it a Boston Butt Anyway?
P 8-9
Warm Weather Reds are in store.. with Steven Kolpan
Oceana: A Nostalgic Experience ON CAMPUS
P 4-5
CENTER SPREAD
4 Pics 1 Word: Contest!!
P 6-7
BACK PAGE
“Dorm Room Cooking” Part Two!
P 12
LA PAPILLOTE
2
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
June 14, 2013
PUBLISHER
The Student Affairs Division
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Stephanie M. Kirkland
LAYOUT EDITOR
Diane Lam
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Sue Haug
CONTRIBUTORS Anna Ungricht Francis Maling Diane Lam Chef Fred Brash Abby Gilkey Michael Walsh
Irena Chalmers Daniel Jaroz Michael Earle Steven Kolpan Amy Zaarichnak
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
Another editorial, and another headache. I’m just kidding. But, sadly enough, no one wanted to state their opinion on what I should continue to write about. Nevertheless, sixth termers are roaming the halls again, and that includes me. Classes are going; people are stressing out already, and I’m just in the middle feeling all of it around me. Being back in the swing of things got me thinking about the way I pleasantly found La Papillote continuing to get around on its own. Part of my job as Editor includes going around to different offices in Roth Hall and delivering new editions of the paper to the president’s office and career services, to name a couple. Anyway, at some of those offices, La Papillote was already there. The newest issue, just where it should be. I found it nice to see since it was my first chance to hand deliver them since being back on campus. And even not on the administration side of things, in one of the lodges, I saw a copy on each of the tables in the kitchen. A perfect staple, ready to be picked up upon dull conversation I think. Coming back as a Bachelors student, I find myself finding out things about our school that I didn’t know existed or about resources that I didn’t use before. I knew it would be like this in a way; and that’s something that drew me to the BPS program. I knew that the CIA still had so much to offer me. I graduate next August, and somehow it feels like it will come so soon. The weeks go so quickly here, and I know that my first degree felt like it took no time at all to receive. The memories are still there and fresh, as are the remembrance of long hours and days to get there, but it really has come full circle. To those of you who are currently in the midst of the AOS program, if you happen to see me come through one of your kitchens, know that I’m probably thinking of how I was once in your shoes, and how I’m grateful to be where I am now, and of my appreciation of your dedication. I know it’s tough, and I have taken on a different attitude now that I’m a BPS student. Appreciative is the right word, rather than criticize as I felt I was through the continuation of my AOS degree. A little wiser, maybe. These past few weeks have been a whirlwind, what with packing, and unpacking; how do the lodges not have elevators by the way?! And throwing myself back into life here at the CIA; homework, working, trying not to be late for class, finding time to hit the gym for once, and time seems like it won’t slow down. But, if there isn’t much to pass the time on your end and you feel like you may be here forever, I found a couple of happenings that can get you out of your slump…. A blueberry festival on historic grounds coming July 28th is one, and how can we forget the annual rib festival, on August 16? And, naturally, being in the state of New York where can you go wrong with a bagel festival, in Monticello on Aug. 16-17, complete with parade if you were worried. Along with all of the farmers markets that are now in full swing, armed with fresh everything, it is sure to be one tasty summer. Looking for something to do sooner rather than later? If there’s a tab on the festivals website that says, “It’s all about the food,” is fine with me. The Poughkeepsie Greek Festival (rain or shine) this weekend June 13-16; ready for a mess of sticky hands laced with remnants of gyros and baklava anyone? Some things change, and yet they rarely do. We fall into the same routine, alarm clocks go off, and up we get, ready to take on classes and whatever else we might come across, just remember to have plans for the weekend, some good friends by your side, and a copy of La Papillote on hand when things get rough. As always, stay hungry.
Stephanie Kirkland
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net
CHECK OUT LA PAPILLOTE ON FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/fblapapillote
Scan To Visit Our Library on issuu.com/lapapillote.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Diane Lam (Layout Editor) diaaa.lam@ gmail.com
Alicia Yandell (Copy Editor)
ajyandell18@ aol.com
Michael Walsh (Copy Editor) MW1058392@ mycia.net
June 14, 2013
3
Exploring Brittany Hollow Farm
BY: Diane Lam , AOS Culinary
I often speak of how wonderful The Culinary Institute of America is in relation to its resources, programs and of course the food--especially with regard to the curriculum. It’s always tricky to be on the wagon about our college, especially when you come across that one student that isn’t drinking the same “Kool-Aid” as you are. That being said, there is one thing that all students can relate to; amongst all the staff present here at the CIA, almost every student has a favorite chef/administrator/instructor. Perhaps favorite isn’t the word, considering that every member of the faculty always have something different to offer to the table. It’s possible to accurately claim that every student has come across a chef or instructor some time during their college career here and has said of them, “Wow, I’m learning a lot.” Well, lucky for me, I have come across many. Chef Le Roux is practically the man responsible for my good organization as well as my need to prioritize precision in my knife cuts and station. Chef McCue has taught me the meaning of productivity and introduced to my brain “mental mise en place”.... and trust me, it goes beyond tools and ingredients. Lastly, Professor Mosher gave me the confidence and drive for curiosity of fine ingredients with integrity and their importance in our ecology. Honestly, there isn’t a day that goes by where I am not reminded of how our faculty has affected me in one way or another. Their imprint also extends out of the kitchen or classroom. This past weekend, I spent the afternoon helping Professor Mosher on his farm, Brittany Hollow Farm. I had intentions of doing so during my time with him in his Product Knowledge class, but the excitement that built up as I was headed to his farm was undeniably surging through me causing an excited ear-to-ear grin slapped across my face. I am a city girl through and through. I have only lived with concrete as my backyard. The only trees that I was exposed to were palm tress and the municipal trees that decorated my sidewalks. Driving from Hyde Park to Rhinebeck alone was an eyeful! Lush greenery and charming pastures from neighboring farms stretched along the hilly roads towards Brittany
Hollow Farm. As I got out of my car to greet him, out walked a t-shirt wearing, shorts sporting Professor Mosher with his familiar warm smile. Awkward to me at first because he wasn’t wearing his CIA lab coat, but all the same comforting. He gave me the task of “snapping” garlic scapes from his growing bulbs of garlic. “You want to snap them off so they grow nice and big,” Professor Mosher said as he snaps a scape off from the crop and motions for me to try it. With one crisp bite I receive a spicy but tenderly refreshing sensation in my mouth and then a shot of it hitting the base of my nose. “You can take some home with you, if you want!” Mosher says in response to my excitement
of this new ingredient as a flurry of ideas and inspirations begin to form in my head. I get to work as the sunshine hits my shoulder and thoughts of stir-fry as pickled scapes dance around in my mind. About a half hour later, I see Mosher in his ‘Four Wheeler.’ He tells me to get in and shows me around his large farm. We drive through lush greenery with roads clearly familiar to him as he shows me plots of various produce and as we drive by his potatoes out come about five baby Woodchucks--at least I think they were Woodchucks. To my surprise he speeds up and runs them over, not once, but three times. I couldn’t help but laugh. I wasn’t laughing about the slaughter, I honestly feel for him as he has to kill the sweet little things in order to protect his farm, but I wish all of you were able to see his demeanor...
Nostalgic Dining at Oceana Restaurant BY: Freddy Brash, CIA Chef Instructor
Here I might share with you how I got to know Ben Oceana -Talented Chef, Extern site, and Seafood at it’s best! Pollinger who is, if you have not already guessed, the Chef Once a year I at Oceana. I had have lunch with a student in class my big brother and that really wantlittle sister in Maned to work in a hattan. My brother seafood restauSteve is an acrant and in NY. countant (he does So I did a little all the taxes in the research and family which is a thought Oceana plus!) and Jane, my sister, works might be a good fit. I sent Chef for McGraw Hill. an e-mail and he got back to This was the second year in a me that day, to set up a stage. row that we have eaten at OceaChefs of the future, it does na, which is in the McGraw Hill not always work like that; some building. We got there at noon and chefs never return my e-mails already half the dining room was which I have learned to accept. filled with a real business lunch However, being that this was buzz. our first meeting in person, I Nantucket Bay Scallops; Photo Courtesy of: Freddy Brash It really reminded me of when was grateful to put a face to the I was a cook in Manhattan, and the morning rush to get mise e-mail correspondence. en place ready for lunch. Lunch service is like no other; usuI love trout, so when I see it on a menu I cannot pass it ally with two seating’s and really fast paced. The menus are up. My brother and I both had the perfectly cooked piece of normally scaled down, with lighter items being offered than fish with seared, crispy skin and braised barley, black carrots, at dinner. Freddy B was usually a little in the weeds but I and thinly sliced parsnips. Jane had a lobster in a preparaalways came out the other side. tion called General Tsao’s. The lobster came stir fried in a First course: Nantucket bay scallops marinated with blood tangy orange sauce with black forbidden rice. We were so orange and mint. The scallops were half cooked and I really full at this point from the pasta that we only ordered coffee loved that about the way the scallops were prepared. They but to our surprise, Chef sent us a couple of desserts. Molten are so sweet that any experienced cook knows that you need chocolate cake, candied rhubarb, and lemon meringue was a only a minimal cooking time with these Nantucket gems will nice trio to finish the meal with. do the rest. Chef Pollinger sent a course of Cavatelli pasta Well, to sit and relax in a busy restaurant with flavorful with rock shrimp and pesto sauce next. The rock shrimp food and my family as company; Chefs, it does not get better were a little briny and the pasta with pesto was a nice touch. than that.
...Well, to sit and relax in a busy restaurant with flavorful food and my family as company; Chefs, it does not get better than that....
it was priceless. After I finished with the scapes, he had me plant some flowers for him in his “pick your own” flower lot a little up the road from his house. I started to realize how much love and care Mosher has for his craft and profes- Left: a plot of Garlic; Top: Garlic Scapes sion. Here I am whining about studying on the weekend while he teaches, tends to his family, farms and explores his other endeavors. At that moment, I felt so happy to be able to help Professor Mosher because I felt like I was somehow contributing to his ambitions. Rapidly, lunchtime approached and Mrs. Mosher made sandwiches, chips and dip as well as spinach sautéed with scapes. Simple, but every bite was a reminder of freshness and that I was on a farm. Spending that time getting to know Professor Mosher and his family is something that I will definitely cherish. Let this be inspiration for you to extend yourself to the teachers that you admire. We are living on a goldmine of culinary professionals, the value of their presence should not be taken for granted and I wish to impart this feeling of contentedness once you’ve spent a day with the teachers of whom you dearly respect.
LA PAPILLOTE
4
A Sweet Summer Harvest
BY: Abby Gilkey, AOS Culinary
Dried pine needles smoldered and burned inside to break apart the propolis that glued the frames of the smoker. It produced a rich, deep grey smoke to the body. One popped free. With a couple puffs that clung to everything it curled itself around. of smoke, I drove the bees down, and began to As I neared the hive, I could see a line of bees rapidly f lying to and from the stack of boxes that contained them. They f loated into the hive carrying bulging sacs of pollen and stomachs bloated with nectar. The smell of wax and nectar penetrated my nose, a subtle musty, yet sweet, scent that coated the air. A rhythmic hum consumed my surroundings, almost hypnotic with their presence. It was as if they - the bees - could sense the smoke. I puffed some into the air, then at the entrance of the hive. The buzzing hum surged, the bees were becoming disoriented and panicked. Pop - I removed the lid. Bees were in clumps on the back of it, so I gently set the lid aside. Their hum soon became a warning; a commanding, chaotic force that drowned out every other noise in the area. I puffed smoke into the hive, and watched as bees scurried to the depths of the hive. The braver ones strayed near the surface, ripping apart combs of wax and gorging themselves on honey. (The smoke triggers a survival mechanism and disorients them.) I gently puffed smoke until most of them descended to the bottom levels of the hive. Photo Coutesy of Jody Dole The sun’s rays pounded into me, creating a heat that couldn’t be escaped. Beads of sweat carefully lift the bulging frame. It was heavy, to rolled down my neck, getting trapped by the bot- say the least. The honey was all capped off with a tom of my veil. Tap...tap... A bee to my left was white-ish wax, indicating that no larvae were growthudding into my veil, testing to see how I would ing inside. I held it to the light, watching how the respond and calculating how much of a threat I honey gleamed through the wax. A couple of bees was. I puffed more smoke into the air, and began clung to the frame in clumps, so I gently brushed to inspect the frames of the hive. them off with my gloved hand, watching as they Summer is one of the main harvesting seasons dispersed into the air. for honey. There are major blooms in f lowers that It was tempting, to see the honey capped unbees draw their strength from, consuming nectar der all of that wax. I took off my glove and poked and pollen continuously. Certain f lavors are devel- my finger into it. It trickled out from the wax and oped based on the f lower in bloom. I used a tool dripped down the frame in a thick stream. I re-
moved my veil and touched the sticky amber liquid to my lips. It was so rich and sweet, with an undertone of something earthy, almost like pine. The f lavor was unlike anything I had ever tasted – and believe me; I’ve tasted a lot of different honey. The comparison of store bought honey versus what my honey bees supplied is out of this world. Honey from the store is...boring. It is so light and generic, with a f lavor that is entirely too sweet, with no body or depth to the quality of the honey. The dark amber liquid that f lowed over the frames of my hive was pungent, with a sweet profile that was marked by a potent earthy and sour tone. It was magnificent. Apparently, I wasn’t the only one that thought so. Bees drifted from the air and landed in the stream of f lowing honey to guzzle God’s gift. I checked more frames to see how full they were. Almost all of them were about to burst. My mother, who had joined me, started to work on gently placing each frame into a bin. After removing the frames, we replaced them with new ones and quickly closed up the hive. There’s a special tub you can get to harvest the frames. It’s a stark white bucket with a fine metal mesh on top, almost like a chinois. While I held the frames, my mother used a tool to scrape the honey and wax off of the frame and into the mesh. It was amazing to watch the wax topple over and fall into the bucket. The honey was so thick and dark and dripped through the metal so slowly, as if it had all the time in the world. In the end, I had about twenty jars full of delicious honey. The taste and experiences I’ve gained from harvesting my own honey are life-changing.
...From Culinary to B&P
Continued from Front Page
feel they have freedom with recipes, or they just do
in us. Our nerves sky rocketed, which of course,
and alcohol. Flour in the bread baking is equally
not have the patience to bake. One of my former
led to mistakes. “What are you doing?” It was the
vital to understanding, different f lours will produce
teachers, Chef Di, said, “Bakers can be cooks, but
worst question; it meant we were doing it wrong.
different results.
not all cooks can be bakers.” Patience is an invalu-
Of course, after trying to explain, he calmly told us
able trait.
what was wrong.
Bread baking is an excellent example,
Transitioning from one to the other can be ex-
We scrambled to start over and
citing, thrilling, and a culture shock. Each has its
once all the ingredients are mixed and kneaded, the
finish on time. Chef Greg cared about us and our
unique atmosphere and climate. Understanding
dough needs to rise and let the yeast work. It can
growth, but he also felt that not everyone is suited
both sides of culinary and baking has given me a
take forty-five minutes to over an hour to rise, and
for the culinary field. He took it upon himself to
rare perspective.
once it is shaped it needs time to rise again. Bakers
make the kitchen as hard as possible, to weed us
ca offers a completely unique perspective into both
and pastry chefs are just as creative with recipes
out. Not only did Chef Greg try to weed us out, but
sides. Looking into the kitchens and watching the
as culinary chefs. Understanding the formula of a
also to help us understand the competitiveness and
hurried near panic pace, I get a little stressed myself.
recipe allows ingredients to be interchanged creat-
harshness of the field.
I know exactly what they are going through, and I
The Culinary Institute of Ameri-
ing a unique recipe. An example is a Carrot Basil
Culinary baking looked fun and exciting, and
can usually pick out the ones that are doing well and
Crème Brule. I came up with this dessert using only
also a little scary. Baking is a different beast. Bak-
the ones that are not. Coming back to school, I feel
the basic Crème Brule recipe.
ing essentially is chemistry, taking absolute preci-
more confident in my ability to accomplish what is
sion in ingredients and methods.
Baking bread
expected of me. I have enjoyed working in a bakery
Our classes were fast
includes not only ingredients needed, but also an
much more than in the kitchen. I’m glad that I can
paced and crammed with information. Chef Greg
understanding of how yeast works. Without under-
cook, and cook without a recipe. With that said, I
Forte, was a large and intimidating man. The first
standing how yeast works, bread will either refuse to
still get super excited when I bake too!
thing he told us was, “It’s my job to get you to quit
rise or rise too much. Yeast also affects more than
this program.” That sentence put the fear of God
volume, like taste, since it produces carbon dioxide
The first semester of culinary school held a sense of wonder and excitement.
June 14, 2013
ON CAMPUS
5
History of the Boston Butt BY: Michael Walsh, AOS Culinary
It was Day Six of Meat Identification, Fabrication and Utiliza- to Sheryl Julian and Julie Riven, authors of, “Here’s the Rub”, pubtion class, and Chef Mark Elia was demo-ing half a hog. After lished in The Boston Globe on May 7, 2006. first explaining the Ham and then the Full Loin, he arrived at the And while Mses. Julian and Riven did have their article so pubshoulder. lished, they actually cited a different source: “This is called the Pork Butt, or the Boston Butt.” And then he A Boston Butt doesn’t come from the back of the pig, but rather paused. “Isn’t anyone going to ask why the shoulder is called the from the shoulder. In How to Cook Meat (William Morrow), Chris Butt?” he prompted. Schlesinger and John Willoughby write that the cut was named “Excuse me, Chef,” I said swallowing the bait, word nerd that I early in American history. In Colonial times, the shoulders were am, “Why is the pork shoulder called the Butt?” packed into “butts” – the word for barrels – for shipping or storage. “I’m glad you asked that, Michael,” he said through a mischievous smile. “Since you asked, tonight you’re going to go home, open up a browser window, and Google the phrase ‘History of the Boston Butt’. Then tomorrow, you’re going to tell the whole class why.” I really walked right into that, I thought, while out loud I answered, “Yes, Chef.” That afternoon following class, as instructed, I opened a browser window and Googled ‘History of Boston Butt’. The search quickly turned up multiple articles that mostly related the same basic story, and mostly claimed the same source. For example, the item that came up first in the results is from the website Photo Courtesy of: www.MeatSections.com OChef.com. It’s written in the form of a question and answer, as seen below: Q. I am currently in culinary school and wonder where the (http://www.boston.com/news/gloge/magazine/artiname “Boston Butt” came from. I know the location of the cut of cles/2006/05/07/heres_the_rub/) meat, but was wondering about the history of the name specifiIndeed, as I was later able to verify, right on page 339 of their cally. Also, why is the shoulder of the hog sometimes called “Picnic informative and entertaining opus, Messrs. Schlesinger and WilHam”? loughby write: A. Well, one of your classmates may have beat you to the punch This is one of the great misnomers of all time: The pork butt is — seldom do we receive nearly identical questions from the same not from the butt of the animal at all, but from the shoulder. (It got state on the same day. We took your questions to the experts at the its name because in colonial times this type of pork cut was packed National Pork Board and received the following answer: into barrels called “butts” for shipping or storage.) “In pre-revolutionary New England and into the Revolutionary And: War, some pork cuts (not those highly valued, or “high on the hog,” Because this method of cutting the shoulder originated in colike loin and ham) were packed into casks or barrels (also known lonial times in Boston, this cut has lots of city-specific nicknames, as “butts”) for storage and shipment. The way the hog shoulder was including Boston butt roast, boneless Boston shoulder, and bonecut in the Boston area became known in other regions as “Boston less shoulder blade Boston roast. Butt.” This name stuck and today, Boston Butt is called that almost In general, then, the accepted wisdom seems to run along the everywhere in the US,…except in Boston. same lines. See also: “Picnic ham” is a little challenging, even for the pork board folks. As to the history of the name, in 18th century New England, the Generally, the shoulder is smoked, they say, which gives it a very less desirable pork cuts (the lower parts such as feet, hocks, shoulham-like flavor. Since picnic shoulder/ham is an inexpensive sub- der, belly, jowls, knuckles) were packed into barrels or casks which stitute for real ham (which only comes from the hind legs), they were also known as “butts” for storage and shipment. This particuspeculate that it would have been considered a good cut for casual lar cut of the hog shoulder in the Boston area became known in dining — such as a picnic — rather than for use at a formal family other regions as “Boston butt.” dinner, such as Easter or Thanksgiving. (http://www.kitchensaremonkeybusiness.com/2011/02/lets-take(http://www.ochef.com/877.htm) boston-butt-option-1-pork.html) Website after website recounts this same explanation, almost (This same piece goes on to explain the expression “‘eating or word-for-word and most give credit for the story to “the experts at living high on the hog’ refers to the higher valued cuts from a hog, the National Pork Board.” Curiously, one website that does not post considered to be parts above the belly, like loin and ham, and is this explanation is that of the National Pork Board. used to allude to someone being well off or living quite comfortably But even Wikipedia reposts the same language (http:// or extravagantly.”) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boston_butt), however it attributes it to a difOther names also given to the Boston butt include: ferent source—wrongly! Wikipedia’s Boston Butt article gives credit • Boston shoulder roast
• Boston roast • Shoulder butt • Shoulder blade roast (http://www.scoop.it/t/maison-de-coin/p/1001885740/history-ofnaming-a-cut-of-pork-boston-butt) • Boston blade roast • Boston-style butt (http://www.hollandgrill.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/support.cookingTips/cat_id/15/index.htm) • Pork shoulder butt • Pork butt (The Post and Courier, Charleston, S.C., Wednesday, March 12, 2003, p. 4D) In the United Kingdom, the cut is known as “pork hand and spring”, or “pork hand”. In Spanish, the cut is known as paleta de puerco (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boston_butt). My personal favorite search result, however, is an article published in The Post and Courier, Charleston, SC, on Wednesday, March 12, 2003. This item explains that a Boston butt is, “[…]a fresh pork shoulder roast,” then continues: Carma Rogers, an information specialist with the National Pork Board, says the term “Boston Butt” originated in pre-Revolutionary War New England. Some pork cuts were packed into casks or barrels, also known as “butts” for storage and shipment. “The particular way the hog shoulder was cut in the Boston area,” Rogers said, “became known in other regions as ‘Boston Butt.’ This moniker stuck and today, Boston Butt is called just that almost everywhere in the U.S.” It’s also called Boston shoulder roast, pork shoulder butt or just pork butt. Some labels don’t include “pork roast” with the Boston Butt part because butchers assume cooks know this.” (The Post and Courier, Charleston, S.C., Wednesday, March 12, 2003, p. 4D, available online at http://news.google.com/newspape rs?nid=2482&dat=20030312&id=BoVJAAAAIBAJ&sjid=5wsNA AAAIBAJ&pg=1262,5098459) I like this piece best for two reasons: 1) It is the earliest online source my short search turned up; and, 2) It is the only one to identify a specific source at the National Pork Board: Carma Rogers, Information Specialist. Well done, Ms. Rogers. Well done. So, on Day Seven of Meats class, I was able to satisfy Chef Elia when he challenged me to explain the original question: Why is the pork shoulder called the Butt? Because they took the name from the barrels the cut pork shoulders were packed inside, the butts. …Unfortunately for me (again, word nerd that I am), I thought of some new questions. …I understand that the barrels were called butts, and the cut pork shoulders were packed inside the butts… …but there were also cut pork feet, hocks, shoulders, bellies, jowls, and knuckles packed inside the very same butts… …so how did the name “butt” come to refer only to the cut shoulders specifically out of all the cuts of pork packed inside the butts? Also: bellies were undesirable cuts? Really? So far, I’ve left these mysteries for some other day.
The UPS Store
Low Shipping Rates Get Your Shipments There, On Time, & Intact Moving/Packing Supplies & Boxes Domestic &International Shipping Local Pick-up Service Available Full Copy Services
2600 South Road (Route9) 845.454.3505
Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
6
LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
Michael Pollan Votes for Home Cooking BY: Irena Chalmers, CIA Professor
I add my voice to the rousing chorus of fans singing the praises of Michael Pollan. He is the crème of the crèmes. His recent masterpiece is Cooked: A Natural History of Tranformation. In the introduction he states, “The premise of this book is that cooking — defined broadly enough to take in the whole spectrum of techniques people have devised for transforming the raw stuff into nutritious and appealing things for us to eat and drink — is one of the most interesting and worthwhile things we humans have done.” So, he suggests we all return to home cooking. Hmmm. Really? Once upon a time we had to cook to survive. Imagine we wanted a bacon cheeseburger in the 19th Century. We would need to know how to raise cattle and hogs, how to bake bread and light a fire. (No lettuce, pickles, sesame seeds, fries or ketchup available). Today we complain when forced to stand and wait in line for a burger for more than three minutes. We have surrendered our ability to cook into the hands of others. We are the willing accomplices
of armies of food processing companies and their technologies. Sensors use refracted light to test the sweetness of preserves. Machines measure ingredients with uncompromising accuracy and mix, stir and knead a dough or batter to achieve the correct texture every time. Radio waves detect the crispness of cookies before they burn. Hands of steel weave breakfast cereals from oats, wheat, corn and rice, or engineer blends of multi grains, and extrude them in a triumph of physics and technology married to food chemistry. We may confess we actually prefer Kraft rather than homemade mayonnaise. We’d rather have V-8 than make juice from our own home grown kale, spinach and other worthy greens. Give us our daily bread (from the store) and Ben & Jerry’s instead of the pale slush we “make” in our very own electric ice cream maker. For generations, we have been persuaded to believe we have the freedom NOT to cook. A visit to Whole Foods or Wegman’s or any supermarket is as thrilling as going to the Museum of Modern Art. We love to look. But cooking is a far, far different thing. For some it is a joy — a creative, satisfying endeavor. For many, it is a chore. For the inexperienced, cooking is fraught with stress and fear of failure. It is not an indoor sport, though it’s certainly competitive. Timing is a mystery unless you understand the why as well as the how-to of preparing a meal for “friends and family.” It is hard to understand why HGTV home buyers always insist on expansive space, stainless steel appliances and granite countertops to entertain. Hardly anybody entertains at home any more. A recent study reveals: “The average person
spends less than an hour for both food and fitness in one day.” A young mother sighs, I work all day, go to the gym and all I feel is — tired. Too tired to
should interact with each other more during their respective program. Think of this as one of the benefits of being a part of a large network in the hospitality industry. Also, as one should immediately realize, everyone is relatively connected. With this said, I advise you to seek a mentor. An experienced mentor can guide someone effectively during their budding culinary or baking career and offer insights on upcoming classes and even potential externship and job opportunities. Lastly, as I’ve mentioned it before, do not take things for granted. Learning is the key to everything that you are exposed to on and off-campus at the CIA. Remember that there is no right way to do things but when they are right for you. Surely we can all adapt the high standards we learned from classes, but there is more than one correct way to approach things. You have to be able to apply skills and knowledge accordingly. As you are reading this, I have already packed my bags and cleaned my room. I have said goodbye to people and have wished them the best of luck in the next few months for extern. I can’t wait to come back and continue through the next level in the program, but for now, I look forward to starting my externship. Thank you to all who have helped me so far in my journey.
You are truly appreciated. See you next time.
Photo Courtesy of www.NPR.com
cook. Almost too tired to toss a “square meal” into the microwave. But not too exhausted to spend hours watching the Food Network, a sensational trial, the super bowl, opening night of the Olympics, dancing with the stars or checking e-mails. Of course, this turn of events is really good news for the restaurant business. Mr. Pollan, cook your goose if you wish, we’ll go out to eat and, “Have what she’s having...”
A Farewell to Extern
Continued from Front Page
but then again its part of the struggle. I am constantly trying to find balance with school and other ventures along with my personal life. This was especially difficult when I was trailing at restaurants in New York City at least every other weekend to decide where to head for my externship site. It was the most humbling experience I’ve had in recent memory. Not only did I set my foot within the steps of potential employers, but my perspective expanded my idea on how cooking can be in depth and cut throat at times. This allowed me to prepare much more diligently for opportunities in the future. What else can I say about my experience so far? Aside from the typical advice of keeping up with studying and practicing, I’d like to make a list of things to really consider during the 1st and 2nd term. My number one suggestion would be to use all available resources on campus. I mean all available resources: the Tutoring Center, the Library, the professors, the chefs, and the salad bar (those salads come in handy in the dorms when you’ve run out of swipes.) Second, actively consult with your peers. This juncture in your culinary career is pivotal in the foundation of personal and professional connections. I strongly believe that cooks and bakers
Photo Courtesy of Facebook
June 14, 2013
7
Fancy Your Water this Summer BY: Daniel Jarosz, BPS Culinary
There are things we, as humans, cannot live without. Salt is an adequate example. Human beings cannot stop themselves from sprinkling a dash of sea salt over crisp French fries that have been fried twice in oil. Vegetables, soups, starches and proteins taste phenomenal when they are enhanced with a bit of salt. Food needs salt, while society cannot get their hands off it. Water is another ingredient our bodies greatly depend on. As our mouths get dry along the edges and our body cringes because of dehydration, water becomes our best friend. An ingredient so simple is yet so enticing. Temperatures may sky rocket to about eighty or ninety degrees Fahrenheit within the coming weeks. At this point hair may turn frizzy, cheeks may turn red, and body temperatures may ascend. If this is the case then a cold, refreshing bottle of purified water will surely hit the spot. The satisfying ingredient will keep you cool and will keep you on your toes. This may just be liquid gold. During the spring and summer days, the sun makes a grand entrance into our lives. Out of the curtain, or cloud, it unveils itself. The force is powerful to the point where we all break a sweat when we are attacked by it. After hydrating our body we are left with an uplifting feeling, as if we can tackle the world. Water and even Gatorade have the ability to awaken the body and invigorate your system with energy. If sunrays hit you directly then resort to a glass of cold water to fight back. Summer should not be a reminder to drink more water. Of course the weather hollers at you to do so. However, rain or shine your body needs to be refreshed
Let’s Play....
at all times. Make the choice to keep your body hydrated with several cups of water a day. Make it a habit to sip, slurp, and gulp even more water. This ingredient can work wonders. Drinking plenty
Water may seem so lifeless and unappealing. If you truly think so, then turn it around and make it fun. Use some creativity with the ingredient. Pretend you are on Food Network Chopped and in the wooden basket your secret ingredient is plain water. What will you create with the single product? The best thing to do is to make a signature mocktail. A few wedges of lemons, oranges, or lime will add an acidic punch. Sweeten the mocktail with the natural sugar found in strawberries or cherries. Lastly, infuse the drink with a sprig of perfumed mint or sprinkle of lavender to add a pleasant and surprise finish. Making water interesting is a breeze. This ingredient is fun because it comes in many varieties. Bubbly water, like Seltzer, can make your taste buds dance and make your stomach salsa. Fancy carbonated water like Pellegrino will wash down a meal nicely. Mineral water like FIJI, Gerolsteiner, and Ferrarelle offer a wealth of flavors Photo Courtesy of www.SweetBakeLife.com and aromas, just like wine does, interestingly enough. Forget tap water and of it can be rewarding. The beverage has the ability to drink something exciting. make you feel full. In other words, you can lower your Choosing refreshments at the supermarket may appetite and eat less if you drink more water. If you are make you feel like a kid in a candy store because of the on a diet this is a win-win situation. On top of eating vast variety. Forget the empty calories found in soda well, you must also drink smart. Replace all the caf- pop and energy drinks. Add bottles of Poland Spring or feinated energy drinks and high fructose loaded juices your preferred water to your shopping cart. It is a smart with simply water. If you do so, you will be generously decision that will pay off. Invest your calories where gifted with a slimmer tummy and a healthier well-being. they really matter. Personally, I made the change and lost twenty pounds The way I look at the situation is if I do not have in six months. It was extremely tempting to pop open a soft drink, I can help myself to a soft pretzel or bag a can of Coca Cola, but it is possible to fight the temp- of potato chips. There is always a compromise, reward tation. If you are fighting this battle, just twist open a accordingly. bottle of water. What do you have to lose? You are better off with it anyway.
4 Pics 1 Word You can win... a $25 CIA Bookstore Gift Card!
Take a look at these four photos. With the scrambled letters below, try to make a
Five letter word
that relates to all the photos. Text any and all related answers to: (914) 474-4737 Last call for answers is Friday, June 21!
S
E
C
T A D B
P N
L
R C O K W I
P
I
G X
LA PAPILLOTE
8
Food Paired with Music BY: Diane Lam, AOS Culinary
As culinary students, we love to cook—obviously. my music sense is at dinner parties. It is important As people representing the service and hospitality to note that just like the variety of food that must be industry, entertaining comes almost second nature. paired to the ever-growing wine varietals, the same That sublime happiness that we get from offering our respect can be done with food and music. friends and family good food is simply too hard to Revolutionary thought? Maybe not. However, take describe in words; its that familiar reassuring pres- it for what it is. A party needs a theme, theme intents sure that surprises you each time. It’s contagious. a mood, the food to compliment that and music to The most dynamic thing about cooking is how its engage those emotions. elements fall hand in hand with other forms of art. Food becomes a canvas for mood in conjunction to So here goes Menu + Playlist #1: art, music, theater, and other forms of the like. Do you know what “saam” is? Saam is literally the Use a dinner and a movie for example; a movie Korean word for “wrapped.” The theory behind can simply be a movie, the mood and emotion is Saam is to wrap a crispy piece of lettuce and use still because you are directly connected that as a medium to wrap a to your movie. Bag of popcorn, refreshing variety of fillings; most comsoda and a crunchy, salty sweet corndog mon are pickled veggies, vaalong with the next Leonardo DiCaprio riety of sauces and meat. It is Blockbuster and you’ve got an experia very common way of eating ence. Try to do one without the other, in many Asian cultures. The your emotions remain flat and meek. Vietnamese and Cambodians As I propose this assertion with you, have a very similar form of please note: Food is wonderful, but food eating in the form of Spring is best “paired.” A fine dinner is nothing Rolls. without aesthetics. While we ascend in our Saam is a very communal culinary careers, find that one niche that form of eating. You place all empowers your food. I say this because the ingredients out for your music is my secret weapon. While we all guests and have them help can agree that we have an emotional atthemselves. It’s a great time tachment to food, I can strongly include and easy to set up and allows music as being my second love. for very little time to cook I am no different than the rest of and more time to entertain you, I am sure you love music just as and enjoy your company. Photo Courtesy of Diane Lam much. However, my connection to muCan you imagine a room sic is something that no other person can full of friends sitting around share. Growing up, I was the biggest outcast, both the table (or on the floor) eating with their hands? socially and within my family. Being accepted was a There’s something about eating with your hands too; constant struggle and as a little girl, the only thing I it breaks down boarders. There’s no simple way to could use to soothe my growing pains was music. I create an ice breaker than to get comfortable and had one of those old Sony alarm/radios and it was eating with your hands is right on point. It’s the permy best friend. I listened to it so much that I can fect environment for a bit of playfulness, but never a turn the knob to strike the most accurate frequency compromise on food. for KIIS FM, KROQ and POWER 106 (for all you What does that mean for music? When designing Cali folks’). my playlist I visualized what I wanted the scene to I began to know words to almost every song look like. I wanted the mood to be fast, young and played on the radio. Soon my music tastes started to intense, filled with animated friends and drunken refine and as my music library grew, I become more laughter; a fun, urban atmosphere with a bit of mispersonal with my collection—possessive almost. chief in the air. Today, I love to share—for the sheer purpose of bragging rights. The only medium I use to show off
Photo Courtesy of Diane Lam
Menu: Hoisin and Sweet Teriyaki Braised Pork Butt Sweet Pickled Radishes Julienne Green Onions dressed in a Gochujang dressing Tangy Soy marinated julienne Onions Crunchy Rice chips Sauces: Sesame Oil with flake salt Fermented Black Bean paste Pear Ponzu Here is the playlist to compliment: Track 1: “Pursuit of Happiness”—Kid Cudi (the extended Steve Aoki version!) Track 2: “I Can’t Stop”—Flux Pavillion Track 3: “Praise You”—Fat Boy Slim Track 4: “Meet me in the Garden”—Dent May and His Magnificent Ukele Track 5: “Rill Rill”—Sleigh Bells Track 6: “Bam Bam”—Sister Nancy Track 7: “Two Fingers”—Jake Bugg Track 8: “No Interruption”—Hoodie Allen Track 9: “The Seed 2.0”—The Roots Track 10: “The Party and the After Party”—The Weeknd Track 11: “Wildfire”—Purity Ring (OVO Remix) *OVO is Drake’s Music Label. Strangely, he is the only person singing for his label. Track 12: “Crimewave” Crystal Castles All these tracks can be found on Spotify and can be downloaded by searching “Saam.” Enjoy!
Hey Barkeep, There’s a Bean in my Beer! BY: Michael Earle, BPS Baking & Pastry
Lately, the craft beer revolution has really sparked a
trend of breaking the German Reinheitsgebot. The Rein-
coffee aroma. This beer makes you feel like you are drinking an iced, cold brewed coffee.
geitsgebot is a law that limits what is considered beer in
The best commercial example of a beer that takes advan-
mostly Germany, but many other countries believe this as
tage of the “food of the gods” is Rogue’s Chocolate Stout.
well. The law limits beer to only containing four ingredi-
The chocolate is very strong in the aroma, and the roasty
ents: barley, water, yeast, and hops. If a beverage had all
character from the malt helps to reinforce the chocolate.
four ingredients, with the inclusion of a fifth ingredient, it
Although, the best beer that has used the aroma of cacao
is legally not beer. With that said, we have seen an influx of
is one that CIA’s own Brew Club made here on campus
using nontraditional ingredients in “beer.” Two of the most
utilizing cacao nibs to add a subtle cocoa flavor to the beer.
common nontraditional ingredients, coffee and chocolate,
We’ve made a chocolate milk stout, using the same idea
are very popular to add to dark beers such as porters or
of Keegan’s Mother’s Milk, but with the addition of real
stouts.
chocolate.
A great example of a beer that utilizes coffee would be
With respect to the Reingeitsgebot aside, perhaps we
Keegan Ales’ Joe Mamma’s Milk Stout. This beer is a basic
have just stumbled on something greater that a classic pair-
milk stout brewed with lactose sugar, which gives the beer a
ing of four ingredients, maybe five is the ticket. And with
fantastically creamy mouth feel. The addition of the coffee
that fifth ingredient being chocolate, where could you go
gives a little bit of an acidic bite to the beer, and a roasted
wrong?
Photo Courtesy of www.NorthernBrewer.com
June 14, 2013
FOOD & BEVERAGE
9
Warm Weather Reds BY: Steven Kolpan, CIA Professor
With welcome warm weather upon us, most wine and food food. enthusiasts think about light wines to pair with light foods. Here are some ideas for great red wines that will accompaAnd when we think “light,” most often we also think “white.” ny/pair/rendezvous/consummate/marry/honor the wonderMakes sense. Fresh greens and veggies from the garden, and ful aromas, flavors, and textures of the food we love when it’s fish and chicken hot off the outdoor grill all cry out for white hot outside. Any of these wines will add a thrilling dimension wines, right? to foods prepared and served al fresco – fish, poultry, leaner No doubt whites like Sauvignon Blanc, dry Riesling, cuts of red meat, served with seasonal greens, veggies, potaand Viognier strut their stuff when paired with lighter dishes. toes, and our extraordinary local tomatoes (botanically it’s a Likewise, Vinho Verde from Portugal, Albariño from Spain, fruit, but according to the Supreme Court [Nix v. Hedden, Vermentino and Falanghina from Italy, Muscadet from 1893], it’s a vegetable). France, and Moschofilero from Greece are all wonderful accompaniments to the low-intensity/high energy foods we like to eat outdoors in the sunshine or indoors during the moderate cool of the evening. And if there is one white wine and food pairing that should probably be the gustatory signature of the Hudson Valley, it’s our local sweet corn with local Chardonnay; wow, what a treat. Admittedly, I, like most of us, think of whites as my go-to wines in warm weather, but in the back of my mind, I’m “thinking red.” Here’s why: there is a plethora of lighter red wines that can successfully, even excitingly, cross over into the territory usually reserved for whites. These wines are lighter and simpler, fruitdriven, with only moderate tannins but with plenty of thirst-quenching acidity. And now for the really good part: these wines tend to be so inexpensive that theyPhoto Courtesy of Owen Franken can’t help but under-promise and over-deliver. In other words, you get true bang for your buck and at the same time But first… you get a memorable food and wine experience. A service note: just chill. No, seriously – chill these reds So, where to start? How about with rosés, dry but burst- for about a half-hour or so before pouring to bring out the ing with red berry fruit accents. True rosé is true red wine, red-fruit freshness in the wine. Certainly not mandatory, but made only from red grapes with minimal skin contact during highly recommended in warm weather. fermentation (the skin is where all the color is). I say “true And then… rosé,” because outside of the wine-producing nations of EuA buying tip: Do not spend a lot of money on these wines. rope, it’s legal to make rosé from a blend of white and red It may seem counterintuitive, but you are not looking for the wine, so I suggest sticking with European rosé or with a New most complex examples of these wines; quite the opposite. World producer known for the quality of its rosé, or, easily You’re looking for good, eminently drinkable, simpler verenough, a New World rosé that you like. If you’re grilling ke- sions of these wines. Especially when it comes to California’s babs, poultry, fish – especially salmon – rosé is a great match. versions of these wines, this is where popular varietals and A backyard burger is a real crowd pleaser with rosé, as well as national brands (Woodbridge, Smoking Loon, Fetzer, Pepa sandwich of grilled vegetables and mozzarella, turkey with perwood, etc.) perform a highly useful service. Same goes for a sweet/savory cranberry relish, or roast beef served with lo- Chile (Concha y Toro, Santa Rita, etc.) cal potato salad. California: If you’ve never tried cool, crisp rosé with foods you love Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zinfandel, and Syrah are the go-to to eat when the weather turns warm, you’re in for a surprise choices for me. Pinot Noir and lighter versions of Merlot will and a treat. If you already have experience with this style of work wonders with both fish and meat dishes. I’d reserve the wine and therefore crave rosé with this kind of food, you’ve Zin and Syrah for white and red meats, and roasted or grilled got some great choices available to you. My advice is to focus veggies. With these wines, observing my buying tip (above) on wine regions of the world that are known not only for will serve you well. You’ll create a winning wine and food the quality of their wines, but specifically for the quality of pairing with simpler versions of these reds and save some setheir rosés. This leads me first to Provence in France, where rious money in the bargain. A good, local/regional alternate rosé rules. Next, I would look for wines from Navarra, Spain. choice: Hudson Valley or Finger Lakes Pinot Noir. There are fine rosé wines from other parts of the world, but France: if you’re looking for a wine redolent of strawberry, raspberry, • Beaujolais-Villages is made from 100% Gamay grapes. and cranberry all wrapped up in a dry, refreshing package The wine is driven by the aromas and flavors of red berries, then look no further than Provence or Navarra. This time of with moderately high acidity. A good local alternative: Hudyear there should be a terrific selection of these wines avail- son Valley-produced Gamay Noir from Whitecliff Vineyard. able in good wine shops and there’s absolutely no reason for • Bourgogne is made from Pinot Noir, or maybe a Pinot you to pay more than about $15 for the best of these wines. Noir/Gamay blend. Either way, this is a lighter, simpler verIn fact, you’ll probably be able to find some of these gems sion of the best Burgundy has to offer. for less than $10. • Côte du Rhône is a blended wine anchored by GrenWhat about “real reds,” wines that look dark in the glass, ache, that will perform perfectly with simply –prepared white but are light on the palate? We have such a tremendous selec- and red meats. tion of warm-weather reds to choose from that the only hard Italy: work we have to do is choose one (or two, or three, or…). Valpolicella is a Corvina-focused red blend that adds a Some of these wines will be recognizable to you but you may saucy, spicy flair to summer meals, as does its geographical never have thought of them as thirst-quenching warm weath- neighbor in Veneto, Bardolino. er wines. Some of these wines may not be so familiar, but beChianti is an elegant expression of Tuscany’s Sangiovese lieve me, they’re worth trying. And for those of you who are grape, which turns earthy when paired with simple foods, old hands at enjoying lighter reds with lighter foods, maybe No need to seek out the more complex and more expensive there are a couple of new wines to consider. Classico or Riserva versions. Keep it simple. What do these wines bring to the party? Well, first of all Dolcetto d’Alba and Barbera d’Asti from the Piedmont they are great guests. They don’t fade into the background. region are ideal choices for meat-based dishes, and Barbera’s They are spicy and zesty; they bring the fun and excitement, high acidity resonates perfectly with tomatoes. but they’re not too loud and not self-centered. They virtually Spain: sing for their supper, but in perfect harmony. These reds re- Rioja can take on many guises based on age and style. For mind us that wine is food; it just happens to be in a glass. As uncomplicated summer dishes you’re looking for the simpler if by magic, these wines create another sauce, another spice, Cosecha, Crianza, or Roble versions: young wines with a and undiscovered flavors so dramatic that it becomes hard spicy attitude and more than a little bit of soul. to imagine the food without the wine, the wine without the Chile:
Carmenère is a juicy, straightforward red with pungent berry overtones; an easy match with the fresh flavors of summer. In a pinch, lighter, inexpensive versions of Chilean Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon will work, but Carmenère, which is now widely available, is the more exciting choice. Argentina: Malbec is synonymous with beef in any and all of its manifestations. Look for a young, lighter, less expensive style. A bottle that fits the bill perfectly and is widely available: Trapiche “Oak Cask.” So, next time you’re getting ready to fire up the grill, and you start to think about the wine you’d like to drink with the flavors of summer, why not “think red”? By choosing warm weather red wines with your meal you’ll provide good food with good wine at a good price, and hopefully with good company -- A balanced equation for both your wallet and your senses. Here is a list of some warm-weather rosé and red wines that are sure to please; all of the wines retail for less than $25, and most are less than $15. This list is by no means exhaustive, just a jumping-off point for your own favorite selections. Rosés USA: from Long Island: Channing Daughters or Wölffer Estate; from California: Bonny Doon Vin Gris, Gundlach Bundschu, Hendry, Amador Foothills, Fritz, Tablas Creek, Quivira, Foppiano, Bonterra, “Sofia” by Francis Ford Coppola. France: from Provence: Mas de Gourgonnier, Mas de la Dame, Commanderie de Peyrassol, Château du Rouet, Corail, Cape Bleue, Château Routas; from Tavel in the Rhône Valley: Château d’Aqueria, Domaine Lafond, Château de Trinquevedel. Spain: from Rioja: Muga, El Coto, Marques de Caceres, Marques de Riscal, CVNE, Faustino; from Navarra: Chivite “Gran Fuedo,” Vega Sindoa, Ochoa. Italy: from Veneto: Bardolino Chiaretto Cavalchina or Tre Colline; from Sicily: Planeta or Regaleali; from Campania: Mastroberardino; from Tuscany: Banfi “Centine,” or Coltibuono “Cetamura”. Reds: USA: from the Hudson Valley: Pinot Noir produced by Millbrook, Robibero, Oak Summit, Bashakill; Chelois produced by Hudson-Chatham, Genoa produced by Cereghino Smith; from California: Light, simple Pinot Noir from valuedriven producers, such as Pepperwood, Woodbridge, Mirassou, Smoking Loon, Fetzer; Zinfandel produced by Bogle, Edmeades, Rancho Zabaco, Dancing Bull, Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend, Rosenblum Vintners Cuvée, Seghesio, Renwood. France: from Beaujolais: Beaujolais-Villages or any of the “Cru” Beaujolais (Morgon, Fleurie, Juliénas, Moulin-A-Vent, etc.) from Georges Duboeuf, Sylvain Fessy, Michel Tête, JeanPaul Brun, or Louis Jadot. Great Hudson Valley alternative: Gamay Noir from Whitecliff Vineyard; from Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhone-Villages, or Côtes du Ventoux: Jean-Luc Colombo, Guigal, Jaboulet “Parallèle 45”, Perrin Réserve, or La Vielle Ferme; from Burgundy: Bourgogne, Cote de BeauneVillages, Côte de Nuits-Villages, Hautes Côtes de Beaune or Hautes Côtes de Nuits from Jadot, Drouhin, Bouchard, Bachelet, Mortot, Rion, Michel Gros, Thevenot Le Brun & Fils. Italy: Chianti produced by Malenchini, Coltibuono, Banfi, Antinori, Castellare, Gabbiano, and Melini; Valpolicella and Bardolino produced by Allegrini, Masi, Tomassi, Zenato, Bertani, Boscaini, Accordini, Guerrieri Rizzardi, Le Fraghe, Ronca, and Bolla; Dolcetto and Barbera produced by Marcarini, Pio Cesare, Chionetti, Einaudi, Vietti, Vigne Regali, Renato Ratti; Barbera produced by Boeri, Cascina Castlet, Chiarlo, Borgogno, Icardi, Braida, Marchesi di Gresy. Spain: Rioja Crianza produced by: Vivanco, Montecillo, Conde de Valdemar, CVNE, La Rioja Alta, Marqués de Cáceres, Marqués de Riscal, Faustino, Bogegas lan, Marqués de Arienzo, Muga, Marqués de Murrieta, Viña Izadi. Chile: Carmenère produced by Emiliana, Arboleda, Casa Julia, Casillero del Diablo, Errazuriz, Carmen, MontGras, and Santa Rita. Argentina: Lighter, simpler, inexpensive versions of Malbec produced by: Luigi Bosca, Trapiche, Norton, O. Fournier, Trumpeter, Alamos, Yellow+Blue, Finca El Portillo.
LA PAPILLOTE
10
AOS Graduation Speaker: Amanda Freitag Growing up in New Jersey, Amanda Freitag had a passion for food that was fostered by everyone from her grandparents to her high school home economics teacher. Today, she has emerged as one of New York
City’s most celebrated chefs and is a judge on the awardwinning Food Network series Chopped. A graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, Chef Freitag’s first position in a New York City kitchen was as rotissier and garde manger at Vong in 1993, under the guidance of Jean-Georges Vongerichten. It was there that she became proficient in French techniques, while being introduced to numerous Southeast Asian ingredients and flavors and how the two concepts could blend together seamlessly. In 1994, Chef Freitag started working with her mentor and friend Diane Forley at Verbena, where she rose quickly through the ranks to become the restaurant’s chef de cuisine. Chef Forely taught her the importance of using local, organic ingredients and introduced her to the greenmarket in Union Square. While at Verbena, Chef Freitag realized how much she had yet to learn about the culinary world, and so in 1999 she traveled extensively through France and Italy to explore markets and restaurants. During a stop in Paris, Chef Freitag spent two weeks working in the kitchen of the venerable L’Arpège restaurant under chef Alain Passard. While her time there was short, the lessons she learned were life-changing. Working in a restaurant where nothing was left over-
night in the walk-in except for butter was an eye-opening experience, and further developed her love of fresh ingredients and the flavors of the Mediterranean region. Chef Freitag returned to New York and worked at some of the city’s most popular restaurants, including Cesca, where she cooked alongside Tom Valenti as his chef de cuisine and helped the restaurant earn two stars from The New York Times. She then served as executive chef at Gusto in the West Village, where she received both critical and popular acclaim. In January 2008, Chef Freitag took over as the executive chef at The Harrison in Tribeca. During her three years in that position, The Harrison received numerous accolades from local and national media, including a two-star review from The New York Times, as well as features in Time Out New York, New York magazine, and Forbes Life. She has battled Bobby Flay on Iron Chef America and competed on The Next Iron Chef. In addition to being a judge on Chopped, Chef Freitag serves as a contributing chef on the Cooking Channel’s Unique Eats and is working on her first cookbook. And after almost 20 years of being a groundbreaking, highly acclaimed chef in New York City, Amanda Freitag is proud to be working on her passion project and lifelong dream—a restaurant of her own.
AOS Graduating Class of June 14, 2013 Welcome Back Returning Externs!
STUDENT Jae Yoon Shira Sabrina Damian Emma Elliott Anton Layla David Justin Courtney Jocelyn Douglas
SITEA NAME Voce
Margolis ABC Kitchen Vanderputt Amangani Guilmette Arrabelle at Vail Goertzen Atelier Crenn Karr Aureole Volokhov Barnaby’s Saif Bear Mountain Inn Orochena Blackbird Werle Blue Hill Kennedy Blue Hill Albrizzi Boca Raton Bishop Boca Raton Prabath Gayana Withanage Boca Raton Resort Alexandra White Breakers Paisley Bogert Chef Geoff’s Tyson Corner Scott Bowser CIA -Publishing Dustin Scaccetti Copper Mountain Resort Marcia Wallace Crystal Springs Golf Resort & Spa Jaegi Cho DB Bistro Moderne Macarena Ordiales Ortigosa Domenica Berhanu Eleven Madison Park Kapi Jones Everglades Club Erynn Absaar Jawed Gigi Joon Wang Gigi Emma Davis Google Kim Gotham Bar & Grill Jihwan Kim Gramercy Tavern Hyoung James Molter Hot Chocolate Clark Gaudry Iron Hill Brewery Igor Goldshmidt John’s Island Club Harper JW Marriott Desert Springs Ja’toria Larkspur Samantha Mears Dawon Park Lincoln Inseok Jang Marriott World Center Taehwan Rho Modern Hart Morimoto’s Ryan Kim Nomad, The Chanju Andrew Novak OklahomaCityGolf&CountryClub One East 66 Taewoong Yoon Jeong Huh Park Ave Winter/Spring Cho Per se Hana Hill PGA National Devonshire Joshua Gordon Kirschner Philadelphia Country Club McNulty Ritz Carlton Lauren Brandi Burgess Ritz Carlton Dove Mountain Maschmeier Michael Ritz Carlton Kapalua Benjamin Mihal Sebastian Vail, The, Leonora Austin Lee Spice Market Derby Ross Splendido MarlenePayne Henkel Stein Eriksen Ihn Soobin The Modern Ono Naoto The No Mad Maggie Dickerson Threefold Café Bournival Scotty Vintage Club Eric Corona Walt Disney
Baking and Pastry Front: Eryn Stom Riley Schmidt Kirsten Fitzpatrick Bethany Sluus Amy Sposato Kellie Marchewka Ashley Delello
STATE NY NY WY CO CA NY NY NY IL NY NY FL FL Fl FL VA NY CO NJ NY LA NY FL FL FL CA NY NY IL PA FL CA CO NY FL NY CA NY OK NY NY NY FL PA HI AZ HI CO NY CO UT NY NY NY CA FL
Back: Erin Miller Rebecca Bordelen Gian Martinez Johanna Santoriello Victoria Mosher Matthew Bonafede Jacob Saderholm Chelsea McClelland Sarah Henderson
Culinary Arts Group #1 Front: Su Jin Jeon Mike Portell Lindsa Fitzgerald Courtney Lebedz Sarah Kenney Andrea Chan
Back: Kimberly Byrne Joshua Walker Alex Callons Eric Huang Dan Bae Ji Hyun Lee
Culinary Arts Group #2 Front: Kyle Muller Leah Clerman Julie Roeser Nicole Philipson Thomas Ruffing
Culinary Arts Group #2 Front: Mariha Fernandez Hinojosa Jesse Palarino Karisa Finch Kaleigh Wolz
Back: Zachary Curtis Paul J. Weiss Chris Jamieson Antonio Lopez James P. Alworth IV
Back: Jeremy Sabina Thomas Malz Marc Magro Brad Turetzky Nate Medeiros Clayton Nelson Ray Renaud
June 14, 2013
Culinar y Practicalities
BY: Diane Lam , AOS Culinary
Sitting at my desk I cry, While looking at my notes for “pan-fry,” Craving a serious drink of Whiskey and Rye, Licking my lips, as they remain dry.
POT LUCK
11
Haiku 003 BY: Francis Maling , AOS Culinary
Learning is Drowning in thoughts of breaking the Hollandaise, a gift, Scribbling down plating for my Shoulder Clod Braise, fruitful “Low and slow” is the notary phrase. offerings What exactly is this “Second Term Practical?” A probable test to make food palatable? seed life, Oh how I seek to make this event smooth and palpable. success is Sleeping, waking, creeping prose, This can’t be my all time low! on you. As I remain thinking about my service flow.
A Weekend Filled With Music BY: Michael Earle, BPS Baking
Here at The Culinary Institute of America, we rarely see such a wide range of musical styles. Recently, I was in the presence of a rare exception. I had the pleasure of meeting with and listening to the University of Notre Dame’s Folk Choir. The choir was on a two week tour of the east coast. Lucky enough for me, the ensemble made a stop here at the CIA to get a tour, eat lunch and dinner, and hang out with a select group of students. During their stop down to the Student Rec Cen-
ter, the group got to listen to several performers from The Culinary Notes, our school’s music club, as well as mingle and ask questions of Lea Aclan, President of Culinary Notes, as well as other student leaders.
The Choir then gave the small group of CIA students a preview of the performance they would give the following evening. I can’t speak for everyone that was in the room during the preview, but I have not had goose bumps like the ones I had then for the longest time. The Choir gave us the honor of hearing them perform “Perfect Praise.” The following night, the Choir gave a full concert at the Saint Kateri Tekakwitha Church in Lagrangeville, NY. The entire experience was life changing for me. The group has made me want to get back into music, and purchase my own tuba. Something of which, I can now see becoming a reality.
BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary
Apparently, we’re ready for prime time.
So, when it comes time to actually COOK
stand how I can have the same dish two days in
Our group just made it into modern banquets
w ith these people and see what they’re really
a row and have it taste completely different. I
and catering. We have FINALLY gotten to the
made of, imagine my sur prise… and pride…
just cooked corn and asiago risotto cakes two
point that we’re actually cooking for and ser v-
when they step up and get it DONE .
days in a row. The f irst day, I would have used
ing the student population.
I was so ner vous
Granted, it’s not that hard. As I mentioned,
them for hockey pucks , maybe a discus throw,
to start this part of the program that I almost
we’re not doing high volume. However, I really
perhaps even skeet shooting, but I certainly
threw up before class on the f irst day.
love seeing my class at work and doing a great
wouldn’t have w illingly fed them to anyone.
job at what we’re here to do.
I see growth in
The second day, I listened to Chef Reilly’s sug-
two, it’s pretty anticlimactic. We’re not ser ving
them and a burgeoning sense of responsibility,
gestions and they were well-seasoned, moist ,
or cooking in any volume and the halls by K-17
as well as a sense of pride in what they do.
I
and correctly pan-fried. Redemption.
in the East Wing echo because there’s no one
see more successes than failures these days.
I
I watched my classmates turn the limp, over-
coming to eat our food.
So, there’s not much
see people who really want to be here and are
salted, julienned carrots yesterday into perfectly
to do, and ser vice time feels more like get-to -
working hard to get from point A to point B. I
cooked, correctly seasoned slivers of spring sun-
know-your-partner social time.
see the externships that my fellow classmates
shine today. The overdressed salad of yesterday
Maybe our reputation precedes us.
are securing and I am both proud of them and
became the perfectly balanced, bright begin-
Because, you see, our group seems to have a
happy for them.
ning to my meal today. And the salmon didn’t
However, I have to tell you, as we are on day
reputation for being just a teensy bit slow and stupid.
And so I’m watching our group put out food that many classes before us have put out.
taste f ishy today like it did yesterday – but that
We
wasn’t the protein team’s fault. We all blamed
are cooking and plating the same food that I
it on the long holiday weekend, if you’re pick-
Fundies , meat , seafood, we’ve just been
have eaten a thousand times (at least it seems
ing up what I’m putting dow n. But regardless ,
through all three, and the bottom line is that we
that way) from kitchens in Roth and beyond and
redemption all around.
get told the same things in ever y class.
have hungrily – and sometimes suspiciously –
I know how that sounds. But it’s tr ue.
Slow.
Not getting it. Can’t clean. Slackers.
Except no one was there to eat it but us.
gobbled dow n in Farq. We compare our output
It’s a cr ying shame.
We’re doing exactly
Part of me believes that ever y chef tells
to the things we have seen done well, as well as
what we’re supposed to be doing. We’re learn-
their classes that. It’s part of the culture in the
the massive failures we like to gloat about when
ing, ever y day.
industr y, and while it’s slowly changing, some
someone gives us a plate full of disappointment
get off-course and show ing real comprehension
chefs still believe that motivation by harsh criti-
that we KNOW we could cook better.
of the things we’re being taught.
cism works.
We’re self-correcting when we My personal
However, we haven’t exactly had
And we learn… that sometimes we CAN’T
opinion is that we’re doing a great job, and that
chefs who believe that. We just seem to deser ve
cook it better. I knew the day would come, be-
our class is no worse – or any better – than any
it when we get it.
cause it must when you’re here. You enter the
class who have previously cooked in these kitch-
school and initially think the food is amazing
ens.
So maybe word has gotten around, and no one wants to eat our food.
because we put out pretty dishes. By the third
By the time this article prints , and you get
I eat our food. I love my class. The people
meal, it’s clear that you’re eating in a learning
around to reading it , we w ill have exited mod-
you are w ith in class ever y day are like your ow n
environment – which is f ine, because it’s the
ern banquets and catering.
little dysfunctional family. You know their hab-
best university/institutional food you’re ever go -
Next stop: A la carte. A little bit more high-
its , their likes , dislikes , how they work, exactly
ing to eat any way. But for some reason, we feel
prof ile, a little more high-volume, a little more
how they’re going to slack off or step up to the
entitled to pick it apart and complain, instead
high-pressure.
plate ever y day, and I love ‘em.
of realizing that in a f ive short months , WE w ill
Judge us for yourself.
be in the hot seat for others to critique.
See you there.
Like family.
And hey, my family is dysfunctional, too, so it feels kind of seamless.
I said to someone today that I now under-
What do you do when it’s one in the morning and you get a sweet tooth? Try these sweet and tasty baked apples that can easily be made in your microwave! Using a paring knife, gently take the core and seeds out of your favorite kind of apple (Granny Smith apples work great in this recipe) but I also get if it’s one of the apples that you grabbed from Farq. Place the apple on a microwavesafe plate so that it stands up, however this also works fine cut into chunks in the size of your choice. Fill the hole you just made, or sprinkle on top with a mixture of half a teaspoon of cinnamon, Photo by: @lexandra panella, Flickr
one tablespoon of butter and one and a half tablespoons of brown sugar. Simply
heat for one and a half minutes in your microwave for a delicious sweet treat.