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Into Africa

A two-country trek renews a travel advisor’s love of exploration.

VIRTUOSO TRAVEL ADVISOR BRIANNA Glenn of San Diego recently traveled to Rwanda and Kenya (adding countries number 42 and 43 to her list) on a trip organized by on-site tour connection Giltedge Africa. Here, she shares insight and thrills from her two-week journey.

PANDEMIC REAL TALK I realize that journeying across the world during a global pandemic is an extremely personal choice. For those comfortable with traveling right now, Africa makes the ideal destination for many reasons. It’s the small lodges, open spaces, outdoor activities, wildlife encounters, and communing with nature that create the very best option for travel given what the world is currently going through.

ABOUT THOSE PROTOCOLS Many parts of Africa have dealt with Covid in a responsible manner from the beginning and have some of the world’s lowest infection rates. Masks are part of people’s daily wardrobe, sanitization happens constantly, and temperature checks occur anytime you enter an establishment. During my two-week stay in Rwanda and Kenya, I took a total of five Covid tests – I never went more than three days without one. While, yes, this can be an inconvenience, it also allowed me to have one of the coolest travel experiences of my life.

MAIN ATTRACTION Gorilla trekking in Rwanda did not disappoint. The most thrilling moment was after a challenging hike through the forest – we turned the corner and they were just sitting right in front of us, mere feet away. It simply takes your breath away, figuratively and literally, because you realize there’s nothing between you and a 500-pound gorilla! The family we visited included an 8-day-old baby. We watched the mama hold and breastfeed it – it was all so natural and beautiful.

Safari downtime: Sundowners in Kenya and (right) soaking in Rwanda. Opposite, clockwise from top: Glenn in Kenya, a dance break, and a Rwandan gorilla.

PACKING TIPS The most important items to pack are sturdy, water-resistant hiking boots and thick socks. You’ll also want waterproof pants; gaiters to keep out dirt, ants, and crawly things; long sleeves to keep your arms covered; a light rain jacket or parka; and possibly a hat. I used a buff to protect my neck and keep my hair out of the way.

PORTERS FOR THE WIN-WIN You’ll have the op-

portunity to hire a porter for your trek, and this is something I’d absolutely recommend. You pay them $10 (plus an additional tip if you’d like), and they carry your backpack and any additional items you might need. This is helpful for the traveler and also helps support the community.

CITY STOP Kigali is incredible. Most people, myself included, remember learning about the genocide in 1994, but to see Rwanda now makes the turnaround even more astounding. Make sure to visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial. It allowed me to put into context the bits and pieces I’d learned over the years about what happened and understand how the country has healed. Rwanda is one of the world’s fastest-growing economies and a hotbed of creativity.

UP IN THE AIR One of the highlights of my time in Kenya was floating over the Maasai Mara in a hot-air balloon. We set off for the launch site before dawn. Once we arrived, I watched the balloon being inflated while I sipped coffee and enjoyed homemade banana bread. Before I knew it, the balloon was airborne, and we were floating above the Mara. At the end of the ride, we toasted the morning’s activities with a Champagne breakfast prepared under a tree in the middle of nowhere.

SPEED RACER My favorite animal to see on safari is the cheetah – probably because I have a thing for speed! On one drive we watched a mama cheetah and her two cubs for almost an hour as they stalked what might have been their next meal and gave chase.

SUPPORTING LOCALS These local economies that depend so heavily on tourism are full of beautiful people whose livelihoods rely on travelers safely returning. Many of the safari lodges are responsible for the national parks’ conservation efforts, and so, beyond their ability to employ people in the tourism industry, they also rely on travel to fund conservation.