Threading the Needle

The costume designs for Annie Jump and the Library of Heaven come to life on stage. Photos and images courtesy of Desiree Humphries.

Humphries’ designs for the play Urinetown.

Discovering careers in the fashion industry.

By Marijose Ortega-Castorena, editor

he fashion industry provides “... a challenge and an opportunity to solve something,” for artists, like Orlandobased seamstress Gina

Van Epps, to creatively express themselves through the products they make. With the industry expanding, there are hundreds of jobs to choose from, each varying in range

of salary and experience.

Fashion designers have well known careers as they create original clothing or accessories by sketching designs, choosing materials, and deciding how to put their prodcuts together. However, there are other jobs within the designing spectrum which some people could consider underappreciated.

A seamstress’ role is to improve the quality of products, because they modify clothing to give their customer a perfect fit. Van Epps, known as the Psycho Seamstress outside of work, comes from a long line of seamstresses.

“I went from sewing at home as a side hustle, to stitching for celebrities on tour, such as Justin Bieber and Kanye West,” Van Epps said. “I also won an Emmy for working on Shakira’s dress for the for my career because I could point to something that proved it,” Van Epps said.

Another way Van Epps has received recognition is through her nonprofit organization called the Orlando Fashion District, which was established for charitable and educational purposes, and the goal of creating a community for anyone interested in fashion.

“I wanted to create a coop workspace for people who maybe don’t have the room or the money to buy all the expensive sewing machines and equipment,” Van Epps explained. “It’s to help create jobs, give education, and create more self sustaining local based communities of fashion to promote local designers.”

While Van Epps created a non profit, other designers

have created their own Austinbased businesses to showcase their designs on clothing and accessories. Billy Fairley, owner of Divine Culture Clothing, is

an entrepreneur and fashion designer, creating art based on his cultural knowledge.

“I realized, ‘Well, I know a lot of history about different cultures,’” Fairley said. “I started studying them more, so I decided to create my own individual art from these cultures and put it out to the world. I want to focus on fashion as I capsulize the culture side.”

Of all the products Fairley has made, his favorite is the jeweled purse, yet to go in his shop. He has only made three purses, but they’re

Gina Van Epps is shown in a behind-the-scenes video, as a seamstress for Shakira’s dress. Photo courtesy of Gina Van Epps.

Super Bowl halftime show, but the referral came from working with Kanye West.”

Van Epps explained that the best way to get around in the fashion world is by getting recommendations from past employers. She has worked with many celebrities like Justin Bieber, Ariana Grande, Kanye West, Shakira, and Beyonce.

“Being in celebrities behind the scenes video and having a speaking part and talking about what we were doing to [Shakira’s] fashion … was huge

all handmade, and it takes about three weeks to make one purse, because each jewel has to be put on one by one. The most popular piece which Fairley makes “That was huge for my career because are his t-shirts, I could point to something that proved because they’re practical it.” articles of clothing. One of Fairley’s

Gina Van Epps, proffesional seamstress goals is to create t-shirts for people who may not want to make a statement, but just want a nice shirt or love the logo. Spring 2022 · by Maria Ortega-Castorena 23

“I want my t-shirt to be the t-shirt you wear everyday,” Fairley said, “not necessarily the t-shirt you wear out in public, but it’s the comfiest t-shirt for when you’re at home washing dishes, doing laundry, those types of things. I want to create the every day shirt for the every day audience.

Costume designer and technician working at UT,

Desiree Humphries, believes theatre can inspire people beyond the stage. Humphries appreciates the beautiful aspect of fashion, where the creator can inspire people with their work. She is passionate about putting on shows for young audiences, expanding diversity in theatre, and creating an all-inclusive environment for people to work together.

“As a designer, my job is to help realize a world from just a script, and try to bring the characters to life,” Humphries said. “I want to inspire beyond the stage… I’m trying to inspire that one black kid in the audience, if I can.” Humphries remembered one of the moments she knew her hard work paid off was when someone asked for her autograph after watching a show she had designed for. “An audience member once asked me, ‘Can I get your autograph on the program?’ and I thought, ‘It’s just a little show I did, but yeah!’, so it’s those moments that make me feel proud of myself and my work,” Humphries said.

Aside from being a costume designer, Humphries is also a theatre technician, which means she is making sure the production runs smoothly at all times.

“Technicians, that’s where you get those other jobs,” Humphries explained. “There’s the drapers, the stitchers, the wardrobe people, the costume shop manager, all those people.”

In and out of the designing process, there have always been struggles throughout the fashion industry. One of the biggest challenges for designers, especially for business owners, was to stay consistent during the COVID-19 quarantine. “One of the things

I’d say is the biggest struggle is remaining consistent [because] motivation will really set you back,” Fairley said. “I couldn’t do any events during covid because I don’t have a brickA jeweled purse takes about three and-mortar. My job closed down, weeks to make. Photo courtesy of Billy so I had zero income coming in.” Fairley. The ‘aspire’ design means to always aspire to be more in life. The hieroglyphs are laid out to resemble a pyramid, also spelling the word aspire. Photo courtesy of Billy Fairley. Even designers and artists who don’t run a business share a common struggle because of how little and inconsistently they can get paid. “That’s the thing when you’re 24 Spring 2022 · by Maria Ortega-Castorena a designer, you get paid gig by gig,” Humpries said. “I’m very lucky to

have a role in the arts and have regular payment and be able to feed myself. Not to say that other people can’t, it’s just that you gotta hustle.”

On the other hand, the pandemic had positive impacts, too. Fairley talked about putting his fashion business to the side for a while to focus on a better paying job, but he was also able to dedicate more of his time to designing and creating products. Van Epps enjoyed the time off which lockdown allowed for as well, and was able to benefit more from it. In and out of the designing process, there have always been struggles throughout the fashion industry. One of the biggest challenges for designers, especially for business owners, was to

stay consistent during the COVID-19 quarantine.

“One of the things I’d say is the biggest struggle is remaining consistent [because] motivation will really set you back,” Fairley said. “I couldn’t do any events during covid because I don’t have a brick-and-mortar. My job closed down, so I had zero income coming in.”

Even designers and artists who don’t run a business share a common struggle because of how little and inconsistently they can get paid. “That’s the thing when you’re a designer, you get paid gig by gig,” Humpries said. “I’m very lucky to have a role in the Designs and photo courtesy of Gina Van Epps. arts and have though the concert tours went regular payment and be able to away, it got replaced with other feed myself. Not to say that other clients… I moved everything from people can’t, it’s just that you gotta my studio, that I used to have on a hustle.” soundstage, to my house, and I get On the other hand, the to work at home now.” pandemic had positive impacts, The key to being successful in too. Fairley talked about putting fashion, according to Humphries, his fashion business to the is working hard and pursuing side for a while to focus something you have a passion on a better paying job, for, while staying dedicated. For but he was also able example, for one of Fairley’s to dedicate more projects, he stays up late every of his time night designing a video game scene to designing which he isn’t getting paid for. It and creating was difficult to understand why “I want to focus on products. Van Epps enjoyed one would spend so much time fashion as I capsulize the time off which lockdown allowed for as well, and was on something they don’t receive enough recognition for. the culture side.” able to benefit more from it. “The pandemic has “Being an artist is who I am,” Fairley said, citing his artist cousin. really put my career, believe “If I never made another penny Billy Fairley, designer & entrepreneur it or not, over the top,” Van Epps explained. “Even doing art, that doesn’t matter. I’m an artist.” Spring 2022 · by Maria Ortega-Castorena 25