world of chartering

We'll stick to our January tradition this month, by taking a detailed look at chartering in the Well-Protected Waters of the Pacific Northwest, plus Charter Notes.

The Sensational Salish Sea: Home to the Gulf & San Juan Islands It's probably a good thing that prevailing winds and currents along the West Coast of the US run north to south, rather than the opposite. Otherwise, half the sailors in California and Oregon would invade — if not overwhelm — the prime cruising grounds of British Colombia and Washington State, the so-called Salish Sea. Encompassing both the Canadian Gulf Islands and the American San Juans, we consider this vast maze of fjords, inlets, channels and bays to be one of the most spectacularly beautiful chartering venues on the planet. The Salish Sea takes its name from an indigenous population who thrived here long before the fi rst European adventurers 'discovered' it in the 1700s. Although there are now pockets of development throughout the region, while sailing here the prevailing view in any direction is dominated by essentially unspoiled nature. Rich green forests line most of the waterways, and many species of wildlife call this area home. Among them are stunning black-and-white orcas, spotted mostly in major channels such as Haro Strait, and majestic bald eagles, typically seen perched in the treetops, surveying their realm. Why are we focusing on the Northwest

Winds in the Salish Sea aren't always strong and steady enough to fl y a spinnaker. Still, every day is a good day when sailing these waters.

now, in the middle of winter? Because due to the relatively short May-to-September sailing season there, right now is the ideal time to lock in a reservation for your favorite boat type. The short season inspires competing fl eet managers in both Washington and BC to maintain their boats in top condition. But keep in mind that fl eet sizes are relatively small compared to those in Caribbean, the Med or other major international venues. Yes, there are some catamarans in the fl eets these days, but not many. (And also stinkpots, if you must.) Because both Seattle and Vancouver lie only two and a half hours from the Bay Area, the Salish Sea is one of the easiest prime chartering venues to reach — and most affordable in terms of airfare. If sailing in this Northwest wonderland sounds good to you, one of your fi rst decisions will be where to start from. In addition to charter bases in Seattle and Vancouver, others are peppered throughout the region. Is it possible to sail in both US and Canadian waters during the same charter? Indeed it is, and we highly recommend doing so, especially if you've got more than a week to explore. The San Juan and Gulf Islands are all part of the same natural archipelago, but these

SPREAD LATITUDE INSETS SCHOONER ZODIAC

days, each island in the chain seems to have its own distinct 'personality'. Clearing in and out is normally a fi ve-minute process, with several points of entry to choose from in both countries. Farther north, on the BC mainland, lies spectacularly beautiful Desolation Sound, a primeval playground of steepsided fjords and dreamlike grottoes that has remained largely unchanged by humankind over the eons. It's a substantial trek to get there and back from most charter bases, though, so it's best saved for when you can schedule a two-week cruise. Compared to the blasting winds of San Francisco Bay, winds in the Salish Sea are generally mild during the summer months — typically around 7 to 12 knots on a sunny summer day. But even on days when you feel compelled to kick on the engine, traveling these waters is almost always a glorious experience. Surrounded by greenery, with postcardperfect vistas greeting you around every bend, you'll feel as if you're a million miles from the stress of the workaday world.

Spread: You'll fi nd beautiful vistas in every direction while sailing the Salish Sea. Here, the snowcapped dome of Mount Baker lies to the east. Inset, left: Fresh crab for dinner. Right: Bald eagles in the treetops are a common sight.

The region's mild sailing conditions, ample waterside infrastructure and few navigational challenges make it a viable choice, even for fi rst-time charterers. There are, however, two caveats: the need to pay special attention to currents when route-planning, and to tidal ranges before anchoring. Because strong currents run daily in the channels, you'll need to plan your movements accordingly using a fascinating reference tool called a Tide Atlas, which shows precise current strength throughout the region for every hour of the day. You'll fi nd an Atlas in the nav station of every charter boat, and we'd bet there's an app available also. An impressive system of marine parks has been established on both sides of the border, where you'll generally fi nd overnight mooring balls. (The fees for using them are generally covered by your charter outfi t via the purchase of an annual sticker.) If you choose to drop your hook in an open anchorage, however, you'll need to study the tide charts beforehand, and do some simple arithmetic so you don't end up high and dry — tidal ranges can be as much as 15 feet! What's to do ashore? That depends on what you're looking for. One of our favorite things to do is hike along wellestablished forest trails, which often lead to pristine lakes or swimming holes, where the clean, clear water is brisk, but swimmable. If poking around in shops, boutiques and museums is more your style, you can fi nd plenty of them in places such as Friday Harbor in the San Juans, Ganges in the Gulf Islands, and Victoria, the capital of BC, located at the south end of Vancouver Island along the famous Strait of Juan de Fuca. This charming waterside city is not only the cleanest port we've ever seen, but it offers a wealth of cozy pubs, many excellent restaurants, shops of all sorts, plus a world-class museum and IMAX theater, all within walking distance from the harbor. Our insider's tip here is to arrive at the downtown guest docks about 9 a.m. — they take no advance reservations — and you might be lucky enough to get a slip at 'center-stage', right in front of the famous Victorian-style Empress Hotel. Failing that, there are several other options nearby. Other marinas and public docks also maintain a certain percentage of guest slips for charterers and cruisers. Among the most popular are Friday Harbor, on San Juan Island and Roche Harbor, on San Juan Island. Both are American ports of entry, and both host lots of family-friendly summer events, including live music and entertainment. We'd be derelict in our reporting duties if we neglected to mention that throughout the region, fresh seafood abounds — especially salmon and crab, which is a major draw for us and many other visiting sailors. In fact, some charter outfi ts offer loaner crab pots to those who'd like to try their luck. Loaner kayaks are also popular add-ons, as there are an endless number of gunkholes to explore with them. In contrast to some other popular chartering venues that are often featured in these pages, the Salish Sea has its own unique set of attractions, including midsummer days when the sun doesn't

DAVID KORY

Desolation

GEORGIA

STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA

The Salish Sea

Prime Cruising Grounds of the Pacifi c Northwest

set until after 9 p.m. This may not be the best place to work on your all-over tan, but few places on Earth are more boaterfriendly, or more pleasurable to explore under sail. Add to that the fact that it's close to home, relatively affordable and has activities of interest to all ages, and you'll realize why we are so bullish on chartering here. We encourage you do your own research, then pitch the idea of a summertime Salish Sea cruise to your family or favorite crew. But remember, the fl eets are small and the season is short, so the sooner you get your reservation on the books, the better.

— andy

DAVID KORY

Charter Notes Needless to say, this writer loves to travel, especially under sail. Beyond the mere fun of it, I've come to believe that there are innumerable intangible benefi ts to the change of pace that travel — especially under sail — provides. So our gray matter, where they refuse to fade away — perhaps because they stand out so dramatically from our typical workaday routines.

Small details from days spent on active vacations are seared into our memories so vividly that we can recall specifi c activities and conversations clearly years later. Friends and family members we've traveled with — even decades ago — seem to remember key moments with similar clarity. So I've come to the lofty conclusion that active vacations are not only fun, but are healthy for both body and mind, as such special experiences help keep our bodies and minds in balance. What do you think? Well, even if you're not buying it, I like it. In fact, I'll subscribe to any 'mental health program' that helps us rationalize doing another sailing charter with family and friends. Hope to see you out there.

So many charter destinations, so little time. Whichever venue you choose, a sailing vacation with family or friends will be time well spent.

allow me to test my hypothesis on you. My admittedly unscientific theory claims that most of us hold specific vacation memories in a special place in — andy

All the information you need to book your charter can be found on our website www.sailtmm.com To book your charter go to www.sailtmm.com

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