Sole-ful Manolo 27 November 2009, 8:28 PM In town to officially launch his new boutique, Manolo Blahnik “could go on and on” about the beautiful Emirati women, Studio 54 and, of course, shoes. Laura Gatsos catches up with the king of shoes
Manolo Blahnik sits on the expansive charcoal couches overlooking Dubai’s midtown in a finely cut linen suit, a bow tie, black and yellow striped socks (which, according to him, were a “total mistake”), and the most beautiful suede fuchsia brogues. As he stands to greet me, the shoe designer exclaims, “You are fabulous! Look at your flats!” While, unfortunately, I am not wearing a pair by his hand, he is nonetheless appreciative of my choice of footwear, “It takes an elegant woman to walk daintily in flats. Most women can’t keep their posture without the help of a heel.” As gracious as Blahnik is with his compliments, it is his delivery, the theatrical voice that fills the massive presidential hotel suite that charms the pants off those within earshot. After all, it is impossible not to acknowledge that we are in the company of a truly transformational figure in the fashion industry and an absolute character who is as colourful as the shoes he designs. With the likes of Lindsay Lohan and Paris Hilton dabbling in fashion, it is refreshing to sit down with a man who designs simply because he cannot fathom doing anything else. “The 70s and 80s were a time for creativity. People did things because it was fantastic, not for money. I continue to do what I want to do. I love to evolve instead of being just
fashion, fashion, fashion.” When asked how the changing landscape of the luxury goods business has affected him, he says, “I’ve been offered millions and millions, but I’d rather be alone… because I want to do what I want to do, and I will not listen to anyone.” In a time when designers are switching houses by the year and small design companies are being swallowed whole by the “big guys”, Blahnik’s footwear business is run entirely by him and he is involved in every last detail — including overseeing every single pair of shoes that bears his name from start-to-finish. As a young boy, Blahnik grew up in The Canary Islands, witnessing his mother’s adoration of fashion. With no access to European designer goods during the World War II, Blahnik’s mother was forced to create her own shoes — espadrilles with the help of her housemaid and “shoes that tie up the leg” by a local cobbler. Blahnik, however, never envisioned himself becoming a shoe designer. In fact, he was more interested in creating costumes for the theatre, which is where he gained exposure to a certain fashion fairy godmother. The famous editor of American Vogue, Diana Vreeland, saw his sketches of accessories and ordered him to “make shoes” and sent him and his sketchbook up Fifth Avenue to Henry Bendel, one of the most influential designer goods shops in New York City. When asked if he considered Vreeland’s introduction to the buyers at Bendel good luck, Blahnik admits that much of his success has been a result of maximizing lucky breaks. Throwing his head back in laughter, he talks about an opportunity presented to him by his good friend, British designer Ossie Clark. With no experience designing shoes, Blahnik was commissioned by Clark to create the footwear looks for his runway show in London in 1972. Blahnik was admittedly “lost” when it came to the building of a shoe. The design he could take care of without a problem, but the assembly was as foreign to him as constructing a house. Defiant in the face of panicked cobblers, Blahnik ordered them to create the shoes he had sketched on paper, ignoring their pleas for a
proper foundation, declaring “It’s going to ruin the design. I want rubber!” While not one model fell during the presentation, Blahnik admits that this too could only be chalked up to good fortune. “It was extraordinarily good luck. It was hilarious!” Blahnik is in town to discuss the opening of his boutique in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue, and while the eccentric designer is thrilled to be a part of Dubai’s retail landscape, his conversation takes many twists and turns and his curiosity about those around him becomes a constant thread which weaves in and out. “The women here in Dubai take such care in grooming. Their make-up is beautiful. They are beautifully turned out. I love it.” This love of the female presentation is what drives his designs; “I care about the gait of a woman when she walks in my shoes. She should almost be presenting herself to the world as something to be admired.” While some scoff at paying thousands of dirhams for a pair of “Manolos”, others justify their spend simply by explaining that they’ve never felt more beautiful or more confident than when wearing his shoes. This is proven a few of hours later as flocks of fans queue up at the boutique to have their soles signed by the designer. Blahnik again harkens back to the 1970s when he excitedly recalls his experience with “It girl” Bianca Jagger, yet another lucky instance in his life. While getting ready to make her grand entrance on a white horse on the opening night of the Studio 54 nightclub in Manhattan, Jagger lost a pearl from her white shoe. Panicked, she pleaded with Blahnik to help her, “She was such a perfectionist. A small pearl fell off her shoe and she was mortified. I was sent up to the 70s (streets in NYC) to get her another pearl. She said, ‘Manolo, no one does shoes like you do’”. Blahnik tells these stories as if they happened yesterday, and it is his experience and participation in the world’s greatest fashion moments that makes those interested in luxury fashion desperate for their own piece of history — perhaps in the form of one of his Martaga or a Tufa shoe. (Manolo Blahnik, The Dubai Mall, 04-339 8122) wknd@khaleejtimes.com