CWB 091

A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

Incorporating

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER:

A/W 15 SHOW CALENDAR Previewing this season’s key exhibitions SHAPING UP CHILDRENSWEAR Alvanon helps childrenswear professionals make better-fitting garments FASHION’S NEW FRONTIERS – WHAT’S NEXT? ASBCI conference on the future of the retail clothing sector

www.cwb-online.co.uk November/December 2014 Issue 91 £9.95

Photography: Sonya Hurtado, sonyahurtado.co.uk

A great mix of children’s products A unique buying experience

1 & 2 February 12 & 13 July 2015 Business Design Centre, London

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CONTENTS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CONT ENTS:

12

42

14 36

REGULARS

FEATURES

SCHOOLWEAR

05: Comment

16: Fashion’s New Frontiers – What’s Next?

Key findings from the recent Fashion’s New Frontiers conference, held by ASBCI.

34: News

06: News 08: NCWA 10: Open for Business Legal and business advice plus industry opinion 12: Retail Therapy Store profiles and retail news 14: Brands to Watch Editor’s pick of brands 28: Style Guide Snow boots 42: Talking Point: Maureen Dolan

20: Shaping up childrenswear Alvanon helps childrenswear professionals make better-fitting garments and achieve a standard of fit consistently across supply chains.

36: Women in uniform While women still only represent a fraction of senior management roles in business, over recent years the balance has been shifting. CWB speaks to some of the schoolwear sector’s leading business women to discuss their career paths.

23: A/w 15 show calendar A round-up of the season’s key trade shows for the kids’ universe.

26: Readers’ corner CWB’s favourite kids’ fashion and lifestyle blogs.

30: More memories A look back over 17 decades in the trade, as Morplan celebrates 170 years this year as a supplier to the trade and one of the industry’s leading providers of mannequins and store-fit solutions.

Front cover: Livly 0046 86111180 www.livlyclothing.com NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 03

COM MENT: It is all too easy to get stuck in a day-to-day work routine; one that stifles creativity and prevents you from seeing the bigger picture because you are low on time and high on responsibilities.

I say this with conviction because I know I can be guilty of it myself. Your inbox is overflowing, the telephone is ringing, your “to do” list is ever-growing, but what you have to tell yourself is that the world will not end if you occasionally leave those daily tasks to make space for creating new ideas. Taking that step back gains you a bird’s eye view of your job role and your business, it can help generate fresh thinking, boost creativity and present new approaches.

One means of “stepping back” is taking a day out to attend a business event. There are frequent bespoke industry seminars, conferences and discussion groups taking place all over the country, many of which are free to attend and can prove an invaluable source of industry-relevant information and networking opportunity for small businesses.

Just some of the examples of bodies who host events include UKTI, NCWA, Bira, Nottingham Trent University and Fox Williams LLP. The Manchester Fashion Network has also returned after being discontinued two years ago, and is now hosting discussion events at Hello Hub in Manchester city centre. The next event is scheduled for 28 January, and will be examining “building brand identity”.

To give you a taste of the content covered in these industry gatherings, we have brought you the key findings from two recent events.

The first, on page 16, reviews an event hosted by the Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI), which saw a panel of leading industry professionals and academics from fashion consultancies, supply chain, retail, technology, law and academia discuss Fashion’s New Frontiers – What’s Next? Over 100 delegates comprising retailers, manufacturers, university lecturers, supply chain and logistics companies attended the occasion to hear a panel of key industry

Editor Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com Designers Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Senior sales manager Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com Sales executive Fiona Warburton fiona.warburton@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com Head of childrenswear Lindsay Hoyes lindsay@ras-publishing.com Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics/printing Image Data Group Ltd 01482 652323

CWB is published 6 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 www.cwb-online.co.uk Copyright© 2014 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

COMMENT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

insiders discuss how trust and strategic collaboration can help stakeholders meet the increasingly challenging demands of the retail and online clothing sector.

We also teamed with apparel fit expert Alvanon to bring you a round-up from the first of its new series of UK seminars aimed at helping childrenswear professionals make better fitting garments. Held at the UKFT offices in London, and attended by high-street retail and independent brands, the seminars identified common challenges and provided “best practice” solutions, which you can find on page 20.

On the subject of getting out and about, we are fast approaching show season. If you haven’t already decided which trade shows you are attending, check out our Exhibition Calendar on page 23, which has all of the key show dates for a/w 15. Further to this, as the official media partner of the UK’s leading children’s trade show Bubble London, we will be bringing you an exclusive and in-depth preview to the a/w 15 edition of the show in our next issue out in January.

I sign off the last issue of 2014 by wishing you all a merry Christmas and a happy, prosperous New Year. See you in 2015!

Laura Turner Editor

CWB is a joint venture between RAS Publishing and the National Childrenswear Association.

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication CWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include WWB and MWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group company.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 05

NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CWB NEWS: BEST OF BRITANNIA LAUNCHES E-COMMERCE SITE

CWF BUILDS OWN-LABEL PORTFOLIO Children’s Worldwide Fashion (CWF Group), the European leader in luxury children’s fashion under licenses, has added new in-house brand Carrément Beau to its portfolio for a/w 15.

Following the success of CWF’s previous own-label debuts Billieblush and Billybandit, the Group has gained solid experience to pursue development through its own brands, with the latest addition catering for boys and girls from birth to 12 years old.

Nostalgic with a playful twist, Carrément Beau offers classic wardrobe staples and statement pieces, updated with prints and quirky details. The look is “preppy, traditional and sweet”, focusing on easy-to-wear pieces that are made to last using premium fabrics and classic cuts to provide a sense of timelessness.

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Best of Britannia, the annual London consumer and B2B trade show, has launched its first e-commerce site.

Featuring brands spanning fashion, interiors, grooming and more, Bestofbritannia.com showcases over 200 companies including The Little Shoemaker, Beulah Home, Born British, Chapman Bags, Gillies Jones, Hetty Tose, Jessica De Lotz, Leathersmith and Romney Marsh Wools.

The aim of the website is to have all Best of Britannia brands available under one umbrella and comes as further backing to a growing initiative to “buy British”, which encourages consumers to support brands and businesses that design and manufacture their products in Britain.

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BABY MOO’S GROWS UP Infant brand Baby Moo’s has increased its age range to cater for boys and girls up to five years.

The collection spans superhero outfits and skull skirts, as well as a range of handmade monster toys and a gift line endorsed by celebrities such as Kirstie Allsopp and the late Peaches Geldof.

Brand founder Anna-Lee Kewley has also included T-shirts and tops influenced by music culture, including designs inspired by the Sex Pistols and Jimmy Hendrix. “I pride myself on offering affordable and really cool clothes, now for ages 0-5,” she says.

Kewley launched www.babymoos.com in 2010, stocking imported babywear. She added her own creations under the Baby Moo’s brand in 2012.

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UKFT CONTINUES FIGHT FOR FUNDING

FRUGI BRANCHES INTO HOMEWARE Organic childrenswear brand Frugi has launched a debut children’s bedding collection, marking a significant move for the brand into the homeware market.

Available for sale at the end of January, the new print-led bedding is available in three standard sizes; cot bed, EU single and UK single.

Prints include the brand’s bestselling Bunting design, this season’s all-over Dino print and a unisex Safari animal print.

Frugi’s bedding is made from the brand’s signature, soft organic cotton. The breathable qualities in organic cotton are recognised as being kinder to children’s delicate skin and less likely to trigger allergies, with no chemicals used throughout the entire production of Frugi materials.

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UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) continues to challenge the recent news that UKTI, the government organisation set up to encourage exports, is cutting the Tradeshow Access Programme (TAP), which supports SME companies at key international trade fairs.

Within the fashion industry alone, the unexpected government cuts will affect almost 200 eligible companies that will now not be supported with grants for key international trade shows, which had been agreed with the UKTI over a year ago.

UKFT is campaigning for the cut to be reversed immediately to safeguard the UK’s export and economic growth. It has written to the Prime Minister and senior politicians and last month, together with representatives of the Sponsors Alliance, met with HM Treasury. UKFT reported that while treasury officials stressed “it was up to UKTI to manage its own budgets”, they did offer to discuss with UKTI’s CEO whether there is flexibility within other budgets to support the original TAP budget. UKFT is calling upon the industry to support the campaign via Twitter using hashtags #TurningOffTheTAP and #rebalancing and by writing to local MPs. —

ATTIPAS LAUNCHES ORGANIC FOOTWEAR Toddler footwear brand Attipas has launched an organic range of shoes suitable for indoor and outdoor use that are as light as a sock but more supportive than a pre-walker. The new Natural Herb collection is created using organic cotton and dyed using natural herb Brazilwood and natural indigo dyes to help reduce sensitive skin irritation.

Other design features include non-slip soles, a Big Toe Box for free toe movement to improve cognitive and motor development and breathable fine holes to release body heat. The shoes also contain no hazardous materials such as adhesives or Formaldehyde and are suitable for machine washing.

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 06

NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CONSUMER CONFIDENCE BRINGS XMAS CHEER

HUNTER CONTINUES GLOBAL GROWTH STRATEGY Following the recent launch of a global e-commerce site, Hunter has opened its first global flagship on London’s Regent Street. The innovative store design, which takes “iconic references from the British countryside and re-appropriates them for the urban setting”, was developed in collaboration with UK retail design consultancy Checkland Kindleysides and will form the foundation of the brand’s future retail and shop-in-shop opportunities worldwide.

Hunter Kids is located on the lower ground floor of the 5,300 sq ft store and features a wall of Wellington boots displaying the full collection (pictured). The space has been created to reflect Hunter’s take on the inside of a swimming pool, with a platform ledge showcasing a forest scene as featured in the Hunter Kids campaign.

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Consumers will spend £2.3bn more over Christmas this year in direct comparison with the same period last year, according to industry analyst Verdict. Improvements in the housing market and rising confidence are tipped to contribute to the increase in spending, which would be representative of a 2.6 per cent rise in comparison with last year.

Furthermore, clothing, footwear, health and beauty are the sectors that will see the biggest increases, according to the report. Specifically, Verdict predicts that clothing and footwear will see a rise of 3.5 per cent, although retailers are urged to ensure that their omni-channel offer is primed to take advantage of increased demand for click and collect and premium delivery services.

Consumer spending is tipped to reach £90.7bn, with almost 60 per cent of that spend directed towards the non-food sector in 2014.

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INDIACOCO SECURES BUSINESS AWARD Yorkshire multi-channel childrenswear retailer IndiaCoco has been awarded winner of the New Business of the Year category in the Huddersfield Examiner Business Awards 2014.

Marking its ninth edition this year, the Examiner Business Awards reward enterprise and effort of businesses in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, and include 10 categories recognising outstanding achievement in areas such as exporting, innovation and community activity.

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FASHION NETWORK EVENTS RETURN TO MANCHESTER Last month, the Manchester Fashion Network resurrected its industry discussion events, which are being held at the Hello Hub in Manchester city centre.

Previously hosted on a monthly basis before being discontinued two years ago, the events recommenced with a debut on Launch Strategy, a discussion on launching a new product or concept to the industry, which is being followed

by Standing Out on 28 January, discussing building brand identity.

“The events are informal, and we attract a wide range of professionals from across the fashion industry in the North,” says Katrina Urwin, PR & marketing for the events. “We aim to hold discussions that offer insightful conversations and allow our panel members to share their expertise.”

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2014 NEWS ROUND-UP

LILLY + SID LAUNCHES B2B SITE

NEW FOR BABY BEDDING

British childrenswear brand Lilly + Sid has launched a B2B website in line with its a/w 14 collection. The transactional site shows stock availability by line, allowing fast, in-season repeats, as well as providing independents with information on key topics such as “best practice for stores” and “pitfalls of setting up an e-commerce site”.

Commenting on the performance of the new B2B site, the brand’s co-founder, Imran Hassan, says, “So far, it has facilitated an increase of in-season repeats by 35 per cent. Retailers have constant access to our stock levels and can order repeats online. It’s also great for our growing list of international stockists, who can order in real time. Going forward, we’ll have an increased stock holding investment to keep up with demand.”

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New baby bedding brand Magnus & Mouse launched last month at www.magnusandmouse. co.uk, offering soft, organic cotton fitted sheets and blankets specifically created for 0-2 years.

The collection has been designed with both parents’ needs and infants’ well-being in mind, with all bedding safety tested and able to stand up to the rigours of repeated washing. The fully elasticated fitted sheets are also tailored specifically to each standard mattress size for added reassurance of a secure fit.

The Magnus & Mouse collection is Scandinavia-inspired and offers gender-neutral designs ideal for boys or girls, available in a range of fun colours.

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- Ethical childrenswear label Frugi received The Queen’s Award for Enterprise: International Trade 2014 in recognition of its exceptional growth in exports. The brand is the first childrenswear label ever to receive one of the awards.

- Online kids’ concept store Little Fashion Gallery ceased trading after eight years in business.

- A new conference and sourcing event entitled Meet the

Manufacturer successfully launched on 11-12 June 2014 at The Old Truman Brewery, London E1, to address the potential of a full-scale return of fashion and textiles manufacturing to the UK. - The government rejected calls from retailers and lobby groups to reform the business rates system.

Campaigners for reform had urged the government to replace the rates with a sales tax, which would reflect revenue rather than properties in a report submitted to

the government earlier this month.

- Bubble London’s a/w 14 show saw the introduction of a fashion show to the event’s programme. Entitled Bubble Runway, it now plays an integral part of the exhibition, bringing collections to life and enabling buyers to see how looks can be put together.

- Abercrombie Kids, a division of Abercrombie & Fitch Co, opened its first flagship store in the UK on 30 August.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 07

NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

NCWA NEWS: The latest news from the National Childrenswear Association EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT: Visiting an exhibition on its last day can be particularly beneficial for someone like me. Not a buyer, I am always conscious that I should not interfere with an exhibitor’s desire to talk to potential customers and many is the time that I have brought a conversation to an end so that an exhibitor may turn his or her attention to someone potentially far more lucrative.

At The Schoolwear Show in October, I spent a productive hour talking to two companies that manufacture in the UK not just for themselves, but for others, and would be prepared to consider extending their customer base. As we all know, the amount of garments made in the UK is small, but it is growing and there is constant demand from companies for British manufacturing plants.

I have lamented before how the addresses of all the best manufacturing units in the UK are kept hidden by those companies that use them, as they do not wish others to find them out. I have also drawn attention to the fact that even if some of these units would like to expand, they are held back by a lack of trained labour or a lack of training for those who would like to become cutters, machinists or pressers.

I was, therefore, heartened to hear of the willingness and desire of these companies to sustain and perhaps expand their UK production. I have their details and have added them to my list, but I could really do with other names. So many consumers now recognise that goods made in the UK will not be as low cost as those made in the Far East or the Indian sub-continent. At the same time, Made in the UK now implies “good quality” and “value for money”.

The next exhibition to look forward to is, of course, Bubble London, held on 1-2 February at the Business Design Centre in Islington, London N1. Unlike the Schoolwear Show, Bubble is a “writing show”; there may well be many leads to follow up and customers, both existing and potential, to visit after the show, but there will also be many orders written. This year’s autumn/winter show built on the success of the one in 2013 and I have no doubt that the 2015 one will be equally good. So if you have not yet sorted out your stand booking, now is the time to do it. A provisional list of exhibitors is also on the Bubble London website, so if you are visiting, you can already start making a list of those stands you wish to visit. Do take a look at www.bubblelondon.com.

NCWA will have its usual stand at Bubble, and vice president Lesley Fallon, Michelle Payne and I will look forward to seeing as many members as possible. If you are not a member, you are also very welcome to come and talk about joining. Remember, many of NCWA’s services are only open to members, so do look at www.ncwa.co.uk (you can join online if you wish), ring Michelle on 020 7843 9488 or e-mail her at info@ncwa.co.uk. If you prefer, you can also write to NCWA at 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR.

CHILDREN’S SPECIAL OCCASION WEAR Husband-and-wife team Richard and Rebecca Benson first started their business in 2007, using online auction websites to trade goods. In 2009 Children’s Special Occasion Wear established its website and the image that is recognised today.

The store sells a variety of children’s clothing for different occasions, and stocks UK brands including Millie Grace, Baypods & Early Days, Vivaki and Visara, Eva Rose, Paisley of London and Kinder Kouture.

In the next few months the retailer has plans to offer its customers more UK brands, offering a wider choice of established and upcoming home-grown talent. www.childrensspecialoccasionwear.co.uk

JUST DRESSES Established in 2003, Just Dresses has gone on to stock dresses for a wide range of special occasions, and caters for parties, proms, weddings and christenings among other events.

Key brands stocked include Sarah Louise, Linzi Jay, Emmerling, Pettisserie, Bonnie Jean and Rare Editions.

Recently, owner Denise Ziani has started to manufacture flower girl dresses under the Demigella brand name and pettiskirt tutus under Pettisserie. Plans for 2015 include expanding in-house manufacturing and growing the range of communion dresses. Ziani would also like to venture into weddingwear for boys. www.justdresses.co.uk

NCWA Council: Chairman SHARON BEARDSWORTH Emile et Rose Manufacturer Vice Chairman DAVID HULL Agent Imm Past Chairman DAVID BURGESS David Luke Ltd Manufacturer Treasurer COLIN WILSON

Make your voice heard

Council Members: NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent. DIANE SHAW Agent. SARAH TAYLOR Agent.

RAY WILLIAMS Agent. HANNAH MCHALICK Oh Baby London Manufacturer.

MALCOLM TRAVIS Travis Designs Manufacturer. RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer.

JANETTE REED Cotswold Kids Retailer. VIRGINIA ROSS Pollyanna Retailer.

JILLIAN PETRIE Young Trend Retailer. MARK BARNETT Barnett Agencies Agent.

President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant. JACKIE COOK Retail consultant Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

• Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry.

• Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available.

Read our blog and follow us on Twitter

• Membership costs from £85.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 08

NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

KITE WINS SOIL ASSOCIATION AWARD

PETIT BATEAU TARGETS CHINA

Childrenswear brand Kite has won the Fashion category in the 2014 Soil Association Organic Awards for its “steam engine” appliqué T-shirt inspired by the countryside and coastline of Dorset. Judges based their decisions on the quality of the product as well as the organic story behind it – such as how the business and product went the extra mile in protecting the environment and wildlife and promoting health.

“We’re delighted to receive this award on behalf of the whole Kite team,” says brand director Jo Spragg. “Every garment we design and make is packed with original and thoughtful details, manufactured to the highest quality and produced with the lowest environmental impact.

It is challenging in many ways to design and manufacture garments in organic cotton, so it is great to get the recognition for everyone in the clothing chain who are involved in this process.”

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Petit Bateau has set up a distribution partnership to open retail stores in China and tap into the country’s fast-growing babies and children’s apparel market. In alliance with Fung Kids Limited, the first Petit Bateau shops will open in 2015 in Beijing, Shanghai and Qingdao.

“We are thrilled about this collaboration with an experienced retail partner who will open China’s doors to us,” says Petit Bateau’s chief executive officer, Patrick Pergament. “We are confident that Chinese mothers will quickly recognise the exceptional quality of our clothes.”

Pieter Schats, executive director of Fung Retailing Limited which, like Petit Bateau, is a family owned company established for over a century, adds, “Petit Bateau is an authentic, trusted brand, and has a special French touch about it. At the same time, it has the right feel for the discriminating consumers of today’s China.”

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EMILE ET ROSE SEES DEMAND FOR TRADITION Classic babywear brand Emile et Rose has seen an increase in sales in direct correlation with the birth of Prince George, who is often seen dressed in classic babywear styles.

“Prince George has had a significant influence on babies’ fashions,” says Emile et Rose marketing director Sharon Beardsworth. “Often dressed in traditional colours, especially pastels or navy and white, and equally traditional styles, the Prince has inadvertently, I’m sure, ignited a huge revival in classic babywear.”

Bestsellers in boyswear for Emile et Rose include Fairisle knits, nautical-striped rompers with ribbon trim and pin tucks, and smart linen three-piece sets with waistcoats. Key for girls, meanwhile, are dresses and rompers – often with hand-finished embroideries and velvet ribbon trims.

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BABY BLOGGER CREATES TREND FRENZY

SPLASH ABOUT RECEIVES CONSUMER AWARDS

Organic baby and childrenswear brand Redurchin sold out of its new winter accessory – the Snooch (pictured) – within hours of celebrity Taiwanese blogger QQmei featuring the item on her three-year-old daughter. With nearly a quarter of a million social followers, QQmei’s coverage sparked worldwide demand for the colourful and reversible organic Snooch neckwear, available for children aged 3-12 years.

“We are determined to fulfil all the orders we’ve taken, and have increased production to meet this unprecedented demand,” says Beth Bourrelly, Redurchin’s designer and founder.

“We are asking our manufacturers to deliver as quickly as they can, and they are working with us to ensure we will have stocks in plenty of time for Christmas.”

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Baby swimwear brand Splash About has received a gold award for its Sun Protection Float Suit in the Health and Swim Safety category of the Best Baby & Toddler Gear awards, along with the Consumer Choice and “gold gong” award for its reusable neoprene swim nappy.

Hosted by Mumii, an online woman’s magazine for mums, and voted for by thousands of parents, the awards also bestowed Splash About with bronze for the Most Innovative Baby Product for its mini wetsuit – the BabySnug.

Commenting on the brand’s performance, Splash About’s MD, Bernadette Spofforth, says, “Receiving these awards is a real endorsement for Splash About because they are judged and voted for by consumers – the parents who trust our brand and love our products.”

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— Baby and toddler soft leather shoe brand Inch Blue celebrated its 15th anniversary.

2014 NEWS ROUND-UP

— UK childrenswear label David Charles opened own-brand stores in China and Russia.

— Children’s rainwear brand Holly & Beau won the Innovation of the Year prize at the Nectar Business Small Business Awards 2014.

CHEEKY CHOMPERS TEAMS UP WITH JOULES Former Dragons’ Den contestant Cheeky Chompers has collaborated with British family lifestyle brand Joules to launch two new additions to its Neckerchew range.

The Neckerchew, a dribble bib that combines a bandana-style bib with an attached teether, is available in two iconic Joules prints – “farmyard” and “floral ditsy”. Fully reversible, the Neckerchews are made from absorbent jersey cotton, with the attached chewable teethers both BPA and phthalates free.

Joules founder Tom Joule, whose interest in Cheeky Chompers was sparked by the company’s appearance on Dragons’ Den last year, adds, “From the moment I saw Cheeky Chompers on Dragon’s Den, I knew I wanted to work with them.

We’ve created a range together that we know mums and dads will love, combining the quality and unique functionality of the Neckerchew, with two of our most iconic and loved Joules prints.”

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— Travis Designs launched a new licensed division of the company to accommodate partnerships secured with key children’s properties including Disney Baby, Winnie the Pooh & Friends and Mickey and Minnie Mouse.

— Middlesex childrenswear retailer Cachet Kids won a trademark case against Cath Kidston, after the lifestyle brand and retailer raised concerns that consumers would confuse Cachet Kids with

its own Cath Kids brand, as they both share similar letters. The Intellectual Property Office Tribunal ordered Cath Kidston to pay costs.

— Celebrating 10 years in the trade, ethical childrenswear brand Pigeon launched a home nursery range featuring blankets, quilts, swaddle wraps, hooded towels and matching wash mitts.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 09

BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Open for BUSINESS Bringing you straight-talking legal and business advice.

STEPHEN SIDKIN

GREG ZEMOR

Partner, Fox Williams LLP

Co-founder of marketplace trading platform Neteven

www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.agentlaw.co.uk

www.neteven.co.uk

THE DISTRIBUTION DILEMMA Like the unintended result of a one-night stand, finding you have an unexpected distributor can be a costly affair.

The law does not require that a distributorship agreement be in writing in order to be lawful. More surprising is the fact that such an agreement can come into existence by stealth.

Essentially, this is what happened in a recent case considered by the European Court. A French supplier and a Belgian reseller had enjoyed a 10-year relationship.

Orders were placed with the French company.

The goods were supplied in France. They were then resold in Belgium.

The Belgian reseller adopted the brand name of the French supplier. It created a website using part of that name and advertised in the French supplier’s magazine.

But there was no written distributorship agreement.

So far so good.

But when the French supplier informed the Belgian company that it was appointing another Belgian company as its exclusive distributor, the Belgian reseller sued for damages.

It is the case that Belgian law protects distributors and French law less so. As such, and given the location of the Belgian reseller, it was unsurprising that the action was brought in the Belgian courts. It was equally unsurprising that the French company sought to avoid liability by arguing that the Belgian court was not the right court to hear the claim.

The French supplier’s argument was that the contract with the Belgian purchaser was simply one for the sale of goods. Therefore, as a matter of EU law, the action had to be in the French courts. In contrast, the Belgian reseller argued that the relationship was that of a distributorship involving the provision of services and, therefore, as a matter of EU law, a claim could be brought against the French supplier in the Belgian courts.

The European Court decided that a typical distributorship agreement involves the provision of services. A distributor is

involved in increasing distribution of goods by marketing them. Consequently, the distributor is able to offer its customers services and benefits that a simple reseller could not. This results in the distributor enjoying a competitive advantage as only it or a few others are the only ones able to sell the goods.

Given that a distributorship agreement can come into existence without formality and result in the legal protection of the distributor, it is important for brands to be clear as to their commercial objectives: • If a brand does not intend the purchaser to be a distributor, this should be made clear in the brand’s standard terms and conditions of sale. If it is not and the purchaser undertakes activities similar to those of the Belgian reseller, there is a risk that the brand will be found to have appointed a distributor.

• In contrast, if the brand does intend the purchaser to be a distributor, this too should be made clear and what the brand expects the purchaser to do in distributing its goods and developing the relevant market should be set out in the distributorship agreement. At the same time, the agreement should make clear what law applies and which courts will hear disputes, unless the brand does not want to try and protect itself from potential claims. © Fox Williams LLP 2014

HOW CAN I CONQUER THE EUROPEAN MARKET? For some online fashion retailers in the UK, the prospect of becoming pan-European can seem daunting. To other online retailers, it can seem like all they need to do is extend their current offering in the UK to other countries. Both mindsets are wrong. Europe is not some riddle wrapped in an enigma, but fashion retailers do need a well-rounded and researched online strategy to make an impact.

It is not simply a case of employing the same online distribution strategy that works in the UK to other European markets.

The way consumers browse online in Germany is different to how they browse in the UK, and different again in France. There’s no homogeneous European cultural attitude to buying fashion items online. Different online marketplaces are used for different types of items. For example, eBay is a much more popular destination for clothes in France than it is in the UK. If you’re considering expanding your offering to European customers, the first step is to become familiar with some of the major online fashion marketplaces such as La Redoute, Zalando, BrandAlley, Galeries Lafayette and Spartoo.

The second step is to consider whether it makes more sense to distribute products on specialist marketplaces like Zalando or on more generalist marketplaces like eBay and Amazon. Usually it is advisable to target both types of marketplace as a more limited approach can needlessly cut out a big swath of potential customers.

Furthermore, distributing products across numerous European marketplaces can seem an expensive business. However, marketing distribution solutions now allow etailers to integrate many marketplaces and make sophisticated marketing campaigns in a very cost-efficient manner. In addition, these campaigns can be tailored to limited budgets and used for niche fashion products.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 10

BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Three retailers lift the lid on Christmas sales.

NATALIE DAVIES

HELEN RHODES

EMMA GRAHAM

Company director, Daisy & Jack, Cowbridge, South Wales

Owner, Poppy Red, Ilkley, West Yorkshire

Owner, Bo Peep Boutique, Lincoln

What are you doing in terms of Christmas window displays?

We will be turning our Cowbridge store into a fabulous winter wonderland with foliage and berries to create a winter forest look. Willow branches will frame our Christmas window displays, where models will be dressed in tartan I Love Gorgeous pieces. Inside the store we will have our traditional Christmas grotto filled with the perfect stocking fillers and gifts, plus a special chair for Father Christmas when he visits.

What is your predicted bestseller for Christmas?

The I Love Gorgeous tartan collection is sure to be a winner this Christmas. Also the fantastic Angel’s Face tutu in rich colours of magenta, emerald and peacock serve as the perfect gift for any little princess. For the boys, we expect the Ralph Lauren bright checked shirts together with a navy cable-knit jumper will fly off the shelves this season. Scotch Shrunk has fabulous shoe wing accessories to funk up any outfit, and the camouflage torches will be perfect stocking fillers.

Are you offering any extra services such as gift wrapping, free gifts or late-night shopping?

Our Cardiff store will be open until 9pm weekdays from the end of November, so customers can avoid the Saturday Christmas shopping rush. We also offer gift wrapping.

Is your local authority running any Christmas-themed events to help support small businesses?

On 30 November, 5,000 people descended on Cowbridge high street for the annual Christmas Parade. Father Christmas paraded with real reindeer down the high street, and Daisy & Jack offered a special discount and goody bags to celebrate.

What is your predicted bestseller for Christmas?

Christmas is not a particularly busy time for us. August is our equivalent of Christmas with the mad Back to School rush. There are, however, certain things that are always popular for presents such as Ugg boots and Lelli Kelly party shoes. We also sell a lot of gift vouchers, often to grandparents wanting to give something that will be genuinely useful.

What are you doing in terms of decorating the store?

Now Halloween is over we’ve brushed away the cobwebs and are looking forward to bringing out the Christmas tree, which we fill with gift products, Christmas lights and decorations. We display toys with ribbons wrapped around them, and some of the clothes are put into gift boxes and displayed on a separate stand to give people Christmas gift ideas.

Are sales in the run-up to Christmas stronger or weaker than this time last year?

This year has seen an increase in sales on the same period last year, but this is true of our trade in general. We are in the fortunate position of continuing to increase sales both in the shop and online – which we put down to providing a top-quality personal service alongside a huge choice of shoes.

What is your predicted bestseller for Christmas?

We have predicted that our bestsellers will be the traditional smocked Sarah Louise dresses and, on the opposite end of the scale, the Frugi Twirly Bow Dress.

Are you running any Christmas promotions via local press or social media?

We run a loyalty scheme in-store, and any customer who has registered with us is sent a £20 gift voucher, which can be used any time in December as a Christmas gift. This is not something we have done before as we prefer to run different schemes all the time, preventing customers waiting for a certain promotion before making their purchase. It might be a bit random, but it works for us.

Are you getting involved in any local Christmas-themed events?

We have not yet heard of any local schemes in Ilkley, but there will undoubtedly be lots going on. Ilkley is a lovely town and attracts tourists, as well as having some fabulous loyal residents who really value the independent shops.

Are sales in the run-up to Christmas stronger or weaker than this time last year?

Our sales are definitely stronger this year.

Being a new shop and having launched our website earlier this year, we are still building our customer base and are very positive about the future.

Are you offering any extra services such as gift wrapping, free gifts or late-night shopping?

We like to gift wrap everything in coloured tissue paper free of charge to provide a more boutique shopping experience.

However, at Christmas, we want to make everything that little bit more special, so as well as the tissue paper we have gift boxes and ribbon. We will also be hosting a special Christmas shopping evening with drinks, nibbles and special offers.

Are there any Christmas-themed events in Lincoln that will help to bring in customers?

Lincoln is well known for its fantastic Christmas market, attracting over 150,000 visitors to the area. So we are excited to expect a lot of visitors in our shop from both the UK and abroad.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 11

RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques as well as news and store events from the world of childrenswear retail.

ELFIE 27 Chilworth Street, London W2 Last month, British childrenswear brand Elfie opened its first London boutique located in the heart of Bayswater. Launched in 2010 by sisters Victoria Roper-Curzon and Rafaela Van Der Heyden, Elfie offers clothing, footwear and accessories for boys and girls. The sisters source inspiration for their brand from their own childhood memories, the clothes they wore as children and fairy-tale story books to create collections that merge traditional British style with a modern, distinctive edge.

Situated in a Grade II listed building adjacent to Victoria Square, the Elfie concept store is set over 1,500 sq ft and showcases the brand’s seasonal ranges as well as exclusive collaborations. This season’s offer is inspired by the sisters’ favourite films, The Addams Family and Lemony Snicket, with highlights including collared coats and frocks, traditional Fair Isle knitwear, partywear, shirts, shorts, baby rompers, booties and bonnets.

The shop will also play host to collaborations this a/w, including Alex Eagle, owner of Alex Eagle Store, for which Elfie has designed an exclusive collection that will be stocked in both shops. Another collaboration is with Willow & Warson, which creates wooden bow ties for boys that can be personalised. www.elfielondon.com

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 12

RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

DAISY & JACK CHILDREN’S EMPORIUM 79 High Street, Cowbridge, and St David’s Centre, Cardiff Daisy & Jack added to its store portfolio in August with the opening of its shop in St David’s Centre, Cardiff, which follows the retailer’s first boutique in Cowbridge, established in October 2012. Plans for the business don’t end there, with owner Natalie Davies setting her sights on further shop openings in Bath and Bristol over the next two years. She also launched an e-commerce website for the business in September, and recently introduced a loyalty card system for Christmas. Stocking childrenswear, toys, gifts and accessories, Daisy & Jack carries brands such as Ralph Lauren, Catimini, Scotch Shrunk and Molo. www.daisyandjack.co.uk

STARDUST BOUTIQUE 17 Waterside St, Strathaven, South Lanarkshire, Scotland Tracey Brown opened her modern and spacious childrenswear shop on 1 September in Strathaven, South Lanarkshire. Catering for the clothing, accessory, footwear and gift buyer, the store’s brand list comprises both established, traditional names as well as some new, contemporary ones, less known in the local market. Labels stocked include Absorba, Levi’s, Hatley, Bob & Blossom, Lilly + Sid, Toffee Moon, Daisy Roots and Bam Bam. Customer service is key to the business, and something that will aid Brown’s initial goal of building up a strong, loyal customer base within the local and surrounding areas before targeting larger towns around North and South Lanarkshire. www.stardust-boutique.co.uk

News:

BUSY AND THE BOY LAUNCHES Busyandtheboy.com is a new online boutique that launched this autumn to offer a carefully curated collection of baby, boys’ and girls’ clothing for ages 0-10 years. Targeting style-conscious mums and kids, with modern, cutting edge kids’ fashion brands, the retailer’s bestselling Christmas presents and cold-weather clothing include mittens and scarves from Indikidual and jackets from Finger in the Nose.

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KIDS FASHION MART Bolton childrenswear boutique Kids Fashion Mart recently celebrated three years in business. In that time, one of the main areas of development has been the retailer’s website.

Originally launched in 2012, the site was later redesigned to iron out navigation and URL teething problems. It now boasts a new homepage with a smarter URL and quicker and easier links to other parts of the site to improve the interactive experience. Other useful additions include comprehensive size guides for every brand stocked, delivery information and a link to sign-up to monthly newsletters. www.kidsfashionmart.com

CARNABY TUNES INTO XMAS London’s West End shopping street, Carnaby, which is home to global fashion brands, independent stores, boutiques and new concept restaurants, has launched a Christmas installation reflecting the area’s music and fashion heritage. This year’s installation consists of eight red and white oversized sets of headphones and sunglasses that create a striking image during the day as well as illuminated at night.

—

Retail news in brief: UPBEAT SHOPPERS PUT FAITH IN CREDIT The number of credit cards currently in use in Britain has risen to 59.7 million; the highest level in four years.

The data – released by the British Bankers Association – indicates consumer confidence is rising as customers feel increasingly comfortable with a return to spending. “When we feel more secure in our jobs and optimistic about the economic outlook, we are more likely to take on more credit,” says BBA chief economist Richard Woolhouse.

BOND STREET MAKEOVER

BIRA OPENS RETAIL AWARDS

London’s iconic Bond Street is receiving a £20m makeover – the first in 30 years – with the investment looking to improve the street without losing its character.

Plans include a 50 per cent increase - in addition to expanding - on-street parking and an upgrade in lighting, signage and public art. The project will also include some re-landscaping of the public oasis between New and Old Bond Street and the introduction of a two-way traffic system on New Bond Street and Brook Street.

Nominations are open for next year’s Bira Awards, an industry accolade to recognise outstanding achievement within the retail sector. This year’s awards comprise four categories – Independent Retailer of the Year, Retail Employee of the Year, Charitable Companion and Bira Direct Supplier Awards – and retailers can enter across more than one category.

Taking place at Warwickshire’s Chesford Grange Hotel on 13 May, the award dinner will be complimentary to finalists, along with entry to Bira’s annual conference, which will take place on the same day.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 13

EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

01

BRANDS To Watch CWB editor Laura Turner selects the must-have collections to get in-store.

01: LA PITCHOUNE

02: ANGEL & ROCKET

New for 2014 is UK label La Pitchoune, which specialises in girls’ dresses for 1-6 years. Vintage-inspired in style, the brand’s dresses are made with 100 per cent cotton blending, combining practicality with young sophistication, fun and fantasy. Slip-on in design, the dresses are easy-to-wear with elasticated waists and no zips, and all feature La Pitchoune’s signature bow and full skirts for a feminine finish. Wholesale prices £50-£96. www.lapitchoune.com

UK childrenswear brand Angel & Rocket seeks to offer “effortless”, “contemporary” designs with “playful overtones” for children aged 3-10 years. Launched in 2013, it offers around 50 pieces per collection split into 40 per cent girls and 60 per cent boys. Key pieces include skirts, leggings, dresses, sweatshirts, hand-drawn graphic T-shirts, jeans, chinos, gilets and coats. For a/w, the brand focuses on a chalked colour palette set against soft yarns.

Wholesale prices £18-£55. www.angelandrocket.com

03: MINIMIZE

04: PLAY IS WORK

05: LIVLY

Danish fashion house Bestseller’s maternitywear brand, Mamalicious, has been extended with a new infant clothing sub-line, entitled Minimize. Catering for boys and girls aged newborn to three years, Minimize focuses on fit, trend, style and Scandinavian design.

Six collections will be delivered a year, comprising “trend”, “commercial trend” and “basic” items, with the first collection due in stores and online in February.

Wholesale prices £5-£30. www.bestseller.com

Founded in 2013, Play is Work is a unique label of children’s soft leather overalls for ages six months to six years. The original concept of the garment is based on a design by brand founder Kaija Vogel’s mother, who created something similar for her as a child in 70s Finland. Handmade in the UK, the overalls are designed to provide a hard-wearing, durable and easy-to-clean top layer, which blends style with practicality. The leather used is ethically sourced, and features natural variations in colour. Wholesale prices on request. www.play-is-work.com

Swedish childrenswear label Livly was founded in 2011 by Lisa Carrol, whose animated designs take inspiration from the royal theatre in Stockholm, where she spent much of her youth. Although originally focused on the younger end of the market, this medium to high end label has since evolved from Pima cotton babywear to include everyday pieces and party outfits for boys and girls up to eight years. Signature pieces include coats, dresses and cashmere-blended cardigans. Wholesale prices on request. www.livlyclothing.com NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 14

EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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03

04 05

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 15

REPORT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FASHION’S NEW FRONTIERS – WHAT’S NEXT? The Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI) recently welcomed a panel of leading industry professionals and academics from fashion consultancies, supply chain, retail, technology, law and academia to discuss Fashion’s New Frontiers – What’s Next?

An audience of 130 delegates comprising retailers, manufacturers, university lecturers, supply chain and logistics companies attended the recent conference Fashion’s New Frontiers, organised by the Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI). At the event, a panel of key industry insiders looked at how trust and strategic collaboration can help stakeholders meet the increasingly challenging demands of the retail and online clothing sector.

Dr Julie King, ASBCI event chairman and head of fashion and textiles at the University of Northampton, chaired the conference and introduced speakers in collaboration with Mark Randall, business development director at UL, which was the event sponsor.

Randall set the scene by explaining that the rate of change wrought by online innovation and globalisation posed serious operational and technology challenges to the supply chain. He argued that retailers and major brands are setting the bar for the industry and that only by working closely with their strategic partners will they achieve successful outcomes for people, businesses and the environment.

Lorna Ward, director at PwC Consulting, meanwhile, explained “cost, quality and risk equate to value” during her talk on Tomorrow’s Balance Sheet: Managing Supply Costs, and for retailers one of the most problematic issues is where to source from. Although the minimum wage in China has increased by 13.5 per cent since 2011 and is set to continue rising until 2016, it will continue to dominate global sourcing.

“Is it better to be a follower and stick to what you know or, be a leader and take a chance on relatively unknown new territories such as Myanmar?” asked Ward. “Both options require clear supplier segmentation to support effective commercial planning.

“Consolidating contracts down to high-value, high-performance suppliers opens the door to strong strategic partnerships based on collaboration,” she continued. “A realistic retail price point needs to balance against risk, and volume spending offshore is considered high risk, but a trained buyer can negotiate

PETER NUNN, ASSOCIATE AT LAW FIRM MISCHON DE REYA, LOOKED AT PROTECTING BRAND IDENTITY.

a fair deal while avoiding conflict. This kind of business practice supported with PLM solutions will encourage a seamless flow of communication, trust and transparency, thus reducing the possibility of unforeseen costly risks.”

Looking deeper into sourcing trends was Adrian Elliott, president of apparel and footwear at Coats Plc, who spoke of the rapid predicted growth of Asia’s middle class by 2030. According to Elliot, the increased demand for apparel and footwear will see the Asia-Pacific region shifting from being a production export base to becoming the world’s largest consumer market. The rapid development of Asian economies will see cost inflation exceed consumer price and digital technology will drive change further with increased investment in machine and process automation. Elliott stated, “The pursuit of the cheap needle is coming to an end due to the challenge and huge trend of driving down lead times and upping productivity along the complete supply chain.”

He described rumours of the demise of China as “greatly exaggerated”, with 40-45 per cent of world’s production still coming

from this area, and a bigger mix of Asian and near-market sourcing becoming more commonplace. South East Asia will become very popular within the next 5-10 years, while new hotspots will re-emerge such as Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Portugal, South Africa, northern Africa, Central America, Mexico and Columbia. Myanmar, undoubtedly, is one to watch.

Throughout the day it was evident that compliance will remain a firm fixture for sound business practice, while corporate social responsibility will be integrated into more activities. Laura Hawkesford, ethical trading manager at Marks & Spencer, spoke about Ethical and Responsible Sourcing: Planning for An Ethical Future, which detailed an integrated business approach to compliance, sourcing, buying and ethical issues.

Reports from China claim the demand for labour is falling as its young and assertive employees embrace social media and force businesses to keep pace with cultural shifts.

M&S is using mobile technology in a factory environment to survey workers’ opinions and increase dialogue between the shop floor and management. By calling a free-phone number NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 16

REPORT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

JAMIE MURRAY WELLS, INDUSTRY HEAD OF RETAIL AT GOOGLE UK, CONSIDERED THE POWER OF MOBILE TECHNOLOGY.

VICKY BROCK, CEO OF CLEAR RETURNS, DISCUSSED HOW RETAILERS AND BRANDS CAN BEST REDUCE RETURNS.

on a smartphone and providing anonymous answers, the surveys have empowered workers to raise issues with management. However, it was acknowledged that fine-tuning was needed across issues of scalability and asking the right questions and that this type of communication would never replace traditional audits.

Sophisticated risk management within the supply chain was repeatedly acknowledged during the conference, and Jeremy Opperer, European technical operations director at Intertek, stated that innovation will inherently involve risk. Opperer advised that risk should not be seen as an innovation inhibitor, but rather as an incentive to “invest in the (supplier) partnership, highlighting issues and bringing the supplier in early to discuss the protocols and product specifications encourages dialogue and feedback.”

It was recommended to “trust, but verify” in the supply chain and let suppliers fulfil their role without micro-management. The most effective way to foresee and eliminate signs of potential trouble is to communicate findings to the entire supply chain, a hurdle that many fall at, explained Opperer.

“Very strong brands do great risk assessment, but don’t communicate,” he continued. “Data is out there. You just need to take it – search out consumer information from multiple sources such as online product reviews, returns forms, fashion blogs and social media – an obvious quick win without much additional effort.”

Meanwhile, Vicky Brock, CEO of Clear Returns, described the reason for unwanted items as “a black hole of knowledge” within the industry. The impact of this on the customer experience is one to be addressed sooner rather than later if retailers are to keep their heads above water. It was suggested the smartest move is to take a predictive approach and build a portfolio of characteristics of the buyer at category level and what it is they are likely to return. Retailers should focus on “who, not what, was returned” and with the high-value shopper having a return rate of 1.7 per cent, analysing the behaviour of this group provides the most accurate indicator

as to why items are unwanted. A service or product issue will usually be the cause.

Reiterating the point of effective utilisation and action on intelligence received, retailers must be responsive to issues, but with 43 per cent of retailers capturing data and doing nothing with it, retrospective reporting is costly. Brock warned profit margins will be wiped out on an item if it is returned more than three times. Slow-selling items receiving a push through marketing can also spike returns as just one “toxic” product – either defective or of poor quality – can escalate costs by producing a 2.5 per cent increase on returns of everything else in the same basket.

Protecting brand integrity was the topic of discussion for Peter Nunn, associate at law firm Mischon De Reya. According to the PwC Counterfeit Survey in 2013, 41 per cent of British residents admitted to purchasing counterfeit items. Imitations are becoming harder to spot due to similar price points of the genuine article, product being sold on upscale looking websites produced at low cost and adverts on search engines. The internet has enabled the problem to become so prolific, with sales of fake goods via social media rising by 15 per cent in the last year.

The new challenge is that of 3D printing as counterfeiters already have the ability to print synthetic replicas of designer accessories.

Cheap unbranded items will be harder to detect when entering the EU, plus with “finishing in the UK” items can slip through the net completely.

TIME FOR CHANGE Other issues brought to the audience’s attention were that of 3D design files being intercepted and shared on peer-to-peer sites.

To combat this we will be seeing trademarks inside garments and in places other than the label, electronic files will be protected and an interesting trend we may encounter is that of design files being offered for sale.

Change is coming and the industry must move with the times, explained Kevin Townend, non-executive director at Advanced Supply Chain and companies must be agile and responsive to their customers’ specific needs. He cited the example of Primark, where a logistical nightmare was averted after the retailer suffered a warehouse fire in 2005 that destroyed £175m of stock. A global recovery plan saw 100 containers of stock arriving daily to stores on time via sea. How did they do it?

Townend said, “The plan was based on being agile and assessing all possible risks, learning from other companies and by preparing for the unexpected, now. You need to incorporate your values into your recovery plan.”

Tony Hines, professor of marketing at Manchester Metropolitan University, addressed delegates with his Iceberg Theory, which identified time, cost and value as the three things needing management in the supply chain in order to serve the customer better and faster. Hine said more collaboration is needed to enhance visibility as speed was “the aim of the game.”

He spoke of the consumer wanting a good deal and how they know to anticipate price fluctuations before making a purchase, which builds increased pressure on price flexibility.

Also, with green issues high on the agenda, retailers need to rethink how products are

“The consumer remains king, there is no doubt, and a visionary approach to satisfying shopper needs continues to require sophisticated management, risk assessment and flexibility on a greater scale”

moved, especially with the demand for fast fashion not showing any sign of slowing down.

Nearshore production could be the answer to lowering risk, cutting lead times, and freight and compliance costs could be brought down providing better control for managing volatility. “Outsourcing is high risk but this may be lowered through contract, compliance and giving control to a vertical supply chain,” concluded Hines.

Picking up on the trend of consumer power was Jamie Murray Wells, industry head of retail at Google UK, who spoke of the “ability and need to embrace change” and how established businesses struggling to do so will disappear from consumer consciousness. The industry must respond to the realisation that power is in the hands of consumers and that mobile technology is required to keep pace with the current trends and habits of shoppers.

Global IP bandwidth is set to increase twelve-fold by 2020, and access to the internet will be everywhere, giving retailers more opportunities to converse with customers.

Common grievances of in-store and online shopping could be improved by enhancing the traditional bricks-and-mortar shopping experience with virtual shopping elements and vice versa. Using a mobile device in-store to scan a QR code on a swing ticket and then being directed to a designated dressing room to find said product waiting could soon become the norm.

Another global trend is the strength of social media turning regular “civilians” into powerful industry influencers. Innovation hubs are no longer predominantly the realm for pure play as the high street is following suit; it reflects how fast the world is moving.

Finally, Leonie Barrie, MD at just-style. com, and the event media sponsor, took to the stage to summarise the thoughts and ideas presented. She noted that the common thread heard throughout the day was that change is inevitable, and observed, “Although it’s not possible to predict the future, it is possible to prepare. Change will bring huge obstacles for retail and sourcing, but what a great driving force this will be for the industry to rise to the challenge and create differentiation between the competition. Whatever the future holds, it is clear that supply chain collaboration and listening to the customer along with the assistance of technology and logistics will allow a greater chance at hitting the target on the ever-changing horizon.”

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 17

Advertising Promotion

1 & 2 February 2015 | Business Design Centre, London

4funkyflavours STAND A8

4funkyflavours is a fun funky brand from The Netherlands that offers cool kids clothes with a ‘70s feeling.

Tel: +31 402 180 567 Email: info@4ff.eu www.4ff.eu

Kissy Kissy STAND G8

Nobody can match Kissy Kissy!

The very finest 100% Pure Pima Cotton.

The Collection is pure genius!

Tel: 01442 248 103 Email: sales@finestforbaby.co.uk www.kissykissyonline.com

Emile et Rose STAND C43

Holly Hastie STAND E1

A delightful collection of classic fairisles, knits, cords and velours in pale blue, navy, grey and ivory for the boys. Girls have laces, bows, embroideries and a beautiful floral print.

Having designed for UK leading brands Jigsaw and M&S, Holly Hastie now launches a very British contemporary classic collection for girls who love colour, clothes and quality from 2-9 years.

Tel: 01392 677555 Mobile: 07971 519567 Email: sharon@emile-et-rose.co.uk www.emile-et-rose.co.uk

Tel: +44 7957 233834 Email: info@hollyhastie.com www.hollyhastie.com

Magnolia Baby STAND D42

Oh...My! Kidswear STAND VC4

Magnolia Baby was established in 2006 with a vision of finely detailed, sophisticated designs wearable for babies and children. Beginning with the highest -grade pima cotton and the most delicate of hand embroideries.

New kids fashion label, Oh...My!, launches its first ever collection in time for Autumn/Winter 2015.

Described as quintessentially British with an eccentric twist, Oh‌My! brings exquisitely crafted occasional wear for little ladies aged 5- 11yrs.

Tel: 001.732.229.0111 Email: hello@magnoliababy.com www.magnoliababy.com

Tel: +44 (0)773 6289 047 Email: enquiries@ohmykidswear.com www.ohmykidswear.com

Parsons & Prossor

Powell Craft

Parsons & Prossor Originates from Bricklane E1- the Heart of Vintage London. Our Collection is aptly inspired by Vibrant Colours & Beautiful Prints that dovetails seamlessly with Easy to Wear Designs.

Powell Craft’s childrenswear launches for the new season include woodland motif knitwear, a fun jungle range, new prints in rain macs, appliquéd corduroy as well as cotton nightwear, toys and nursery accessories.

Tel: +44 (0) 1273 622023 Email: sales@powellcraft.co.uk www.powellcraft.co.uk

STAND GB23

Tel: 0208 8574465/0788 6943469 Email: Robinp53@hotmail.com www.parsons&prossor.com

Saints & Bullies STAND GB8

STAND D44

Toby Tiger STAND A20

Premium quality clothing with attitude!

Belgian designed European made.

For boys and girls (92/152).

Presenting: winter collection 2015

Toby Tiger believes children should be dressed as children in bold, simple, comfortable clothing.

Their jersey and home ranges are made from the softest organic cotton and are ‘GOTS’ certified.

Saints & Bullies Metselaarsstraat 67, 8400 Oostende, Belgium Tel: +32 472 75 18 43 www.saintsandbullies.be

Tel: 01903 766777 Email: info@tobytiger.co.uk www.tobytiger.co.uk Twitter: @toby_tiger Facebook: tobytigerbrighton

Replay & Sons STAND G22

Created in 1991 and based on the idea of extending the Replay adult line heritage to children, Replay&Sons aims to meet the needs of children’s clothing using irony and originality.

Tel: 020 7713 9404 www.replay.it

Tutu Gorgeous STAND B43

Girls partywear for 3-8 years. Fashionable. Unique.

British design.

Tel: 0115 9215690 Email: enquiries@gsc-ltd.com www.tutu-gorgeous.com

1 & 2 February 2015 Business Design Centre, London

REPORT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SHAPING UP CHILDRENSWEAR Leading apparel and fit expert Alvanon recently hosted Professional Development Series workshops, which were designed to deliver a masterclass in sizing and fit for the children’s, men’s and women’s fashion sectors.

Each interactive workshop taught delegates how to define fit objectives, identify key processes and tools needed to achieve a standard of fit consistently across supply chains and the methods for overcoming the challenges of getting fit right. As the media sponsor for the childrenswear sizing and fit event, CWB reviews the highlights.

Apparel fit expert Alvanon recently completed the first of a new series of UK seminars aimed at helping childrenswear professionals make better fitting garments. Held at the UKFT offices in London and attended by high-street retail and independent brands, the seminars identified common challenges, provided “best practice” solutions and provoked some lively debate.

“Fit is not the preserve of adult fashion; it is every bit as critical, if not more so, in childrenswear,” says Don Howard, executive director of Alvanon’s strategic consultancy division AlvaInsight and the host of the Professional Development Series seminar.

Childrenswear, he explained, is not just about fit for purpose, safety and comfort; it is also about self-esteem, whether it be fashion or school uniforms. For this reason, he invited childrenswear designers, technical teams, buyers and merchandisers to “step back and understand the nuances of childrenswear in relation to a child’s psychological and physical development.”

Howard observed that while adults the world over will buy their children’s clothes and base their buying choices on the perceived comfort, ease over body and longevity of the garment, children as young as three years old are influencing those buying decisions based on colour and characters (Octogan First Call statistics). He also warned, “Never let fashion undermine function in childrenswear.

Skinny jeans for babies and toddlers who wear nappies are not a fit option, even if some parents think they are cool!” The reality is that

while consumer buying behaviour reduces the emphasis on fit at the point of purchase, if a garment does not fit, the garment will be returned to the shop – or worse, will erode the child’s comfort, self-esteem and even compromise safety.

The answer to achieving “best fit,” Howard revealed, is to “establish a proper relationship between stature (height) and body mass (represented by key girth measurements), consistently, across the range of ages being addressed – this relationship is critical.” Too many clothing suppliers, he explained, are still relying on out-of-date body measurement data sources that do not recognise that in the last 20 years children have become taller and heavier with larger waist circumferences. This is creating inconsistency in childrenswear sizing, confusion among shoppers and unnecessary costs in garment supply chains.

Where to begin?

The starting point for each brand is to establish the target age range and then identify the size and shape of the target consumer population within that age range. Defining the age ranges (intended market coverage) is key to establishing and maintaining a fit strategy. As a rule, merchandisers or buyers set the age parameters based on what they think will sell. These decisions can present very real challenges for the technical teams that are responsible for executing sizing and fit.

The good news for the technical teams, however, is that the data, tools and strategies

needed to implement accurate fit consistently across childrenswear do exist.

From the outset, Howard says, “It is important to acknowledge that, at any given age, there is a wide range of heights, weights and girths. However, on average, children in every country display the same body proportion trends – taller children tend to be heavier, with larger girth measurements, and will probably need to wear a larger size, while shorter children tend to be lighter, with smaller girth measurements, and will probably need to wear a smaller size.”

It must be noted that these trends do not occur in adult populations where there is very little correlation between height and body girth; they only occur in children because they are still growing.

Alvanon knows this because it has compiled the world’s largest and most robust database of over 400,000 3D body scans.

For its statistical body shape data on children it has supplemented measurement data from accredited paediatric healthcare sources such as the World Health Organisation, NHS and Centre for Disease Control, with its own children’s scan surveys that include Shape GB in which, together with Select Research, it scanned over 3,000 children aged between 4 and 16 years.

Working with similarity The global data reveals that in developed countries, and especially in urban and suburban settings, children are far more similar than dissimilar. At any given age, there NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 20

REPORT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

is a relatively wide range of heights and girths in any country, and it is not uncommon for three children of the same age to require three different sizes. However, average height and girth ratios are similar throughout Europe, North America, South America and China, so it is critical to get the average body shape and proportion right, for any given height.

Detailed data analysis has enabled Alvanon to establish three global size standards for children. The ASTM standard for North America; the EU standard for Europe; and the Shape GB standard for England, Scotland and Wales. Each regional standard is an accurate statistical representation of the dominant height and shape of children across the age ranges from newborn through to 16 years.

The Shape GB children’s data shows that in girls aged between birth and two years, body shape and size is very similar, but boys at the same age are more varied. With both boys and girls aged between two and five years, the height can vary by as much as 20cms.

Crucially, waist measurements are consistently proportional to height.

Specialty sizing Brands also need to evaluate the commercial and consumer value of “specialty sizing” for children who fall outside the adopted standard. There is plenty of statistical evidence to show that obesity across Europe is a real issue, particularly with boys from the age of 13 years. The impact on stature and shape is very significant, and

childrenswear suppliers who “fit” for this speciality group are increasing sales as a result. Howard, therefore, urged childrenswear suppliers to take care in their labelling of plus-size garments. “Avoid negative terms such as plus-size as this can have a serious impact on a child’s self-esteem,” he says.

Instead, he proposed that half sizes – such as 8.5, 10.5 and 12.5 – were a sensitive and successful solution.

Howard also went on to explain how companies should use professional, standardised sizing and fit tools, such as technical fit forms and blocks, to share and communicate the fit standard consistently across multiple sites and professional design, merchandising, buying, product development technical, sourcing, vendor, factory and quality teams. Technical fit forms, he stressed, should be used to develop the garment for overall sizing, fit, balance and scale of the garment to the body while final fits should be on “live models” to test comfort, function and the “eyeball aesthetics” of the garment.

The seminar concluded with the latest innovations that are empowering consumers.

These included Alvanon’s AlvaKids mobile app, which recommends the right size to buy from hundreds of childrenswear brands based on a given child’s height and birthday, and developments in personalised 3D virtual avatars and digital printing technologies, which are paving the way for customised clothing that is literally “made to fit”. www.alvanon.com

DON HOWARD, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, ALVANON

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SHOW GUIDE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

EXHIBITION CALENDAR Autumn/winter 2015 show calendar.

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CHILDREN’S FASHION COLOGNE (CFC)  11-13 January 2015 Hall 1, Koelnmesse, Cologne www.cfc-cologne.com For a/w 15, Children’s Fashion Cologne (CFC) will take place on the new scheduled days of Sunday 11 January to Tuesday 13 January – a move designed to enable small and medium-sized retailers to plan their visit optimally.

The first dedicated children’s trade fair of the season, CFC offers trade visitors an early opportunity to view the new collections in the baby, children’s and maternity fashion sectors, as well as footwear, interior design and accessories. Highlights include the Luna Fashion Shows.

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TOP DRAWER 11-13 January 2015 Olympia, London W14 www.topdrawer.co.uk Design-led gifts, lifestyle and accessories exhibition Top Drawer offers a kids’ product section that encompasses contemporary, traditional and soft toys, games, accessories and some children’s clothing.

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CHILDREN’S CLUB 11-13 January 2015 Pier 94, New York City www.enkshows.com/childrensclub Children’s Club is an international exhibition featuring every category of children’s clothing from newborn to 12 years, layette items, fashion accessories, footwear, toys and gifts.

Introduced in 2000, exhibitors reflect a base of new designers joined by established collections. Children’s Club is held four times a year in NYC in January, March, August and October.

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PITTI BIMBO  22-24 January 2015 Fortezza da Basso, Florence www.pittimmagine.com Walkabout Pitti is the title theme of this season’s show, which will see the exhibition explore the adventures of travelling on foot – everything from walking for pleasure to its role as a sport. In terms of fashion, walking obviously asks for an outfit, so Pitti Bimbo will be addressing the way clothes are worn and styled to walk, including accessories. In keeping with the theme, the venue will be transformed into a mixed terrain, including paths among the pavilions, with visitors guided with guidebooks, maps, and apps to discover the event’s 450 brands.

Launching the season’s trends will be the show’s presentations, runway shows and events. E-Pitti.com, the digital version of the exhibition, will remain available to trade for a month after the show closes providing access to a/w 15 trends through more than 50,000 images and 1,000 videos.

The show’s new signings, key returns and partnerships this season include ABC 123Me, aden + anais, Catimini, Coqenpate, Cyrus Company Bambino, Fendi, Jupe by Jackie, Louise Misha, Moon et Miel, Rock the Goat Fashion, Scotch & Soda, The Little Tailor, William Sharp, Woolrich Kid and Yves Salomon Enfant.

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FIMI 17-19 January 2015 Casa de Campo, Madrid www.fimi.es Organised by Feria Valencia, this season marks the 80th anniversary of FIMI. Encompassing the whole universe for children including fashion, footwear, accessories, gifts, toys and furniture, the exhibition’s framework also includes FIMI Fashion Week and catwalk shows.

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KLEINE FABRIEK 18-19 January 2015 Amsterdam RAI www.kleinefabriek.nl Highlights of the 20th edition of children’s fashion and lifestyle trade fair Kleine Fabriek include a fashion parade, pop-up shops, trend presentations and collaborations with bloggers.

Visitors will notice a redesigned entrance to the exhibition this season, which will provide a platform for the event’s most unique brands.

Kleine Fabriek has also mixed up its exhibitor areas for a/w 15, so product categories are no longer segregated, but instead positioned by those they complement in terms of style.

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BUBBLE LONDON  1-2 February 2015 Business Design Centre, Islington, London N1 www.bubblelondon.com The UK’s leading kids’ trade event Bubble London is renowned for celebrating new brands, unveiling new collections and highlighting new trends. This season’s diverse line-up includes a notable number of Scandinavian labels, including Papu, Nosh, Woolland, Naturezoo, Ace&Me, 4funkyflavours, Smafolk, Danafae, Fred’s World by Green Cotton, Melton & Move, Phister & Philina and Sture & Lisa. It also marks the return of leading British label No Added Sugar to the show alongside Bubble London regulars Billieblush, Billybandit; Molo Kids, aden + anais, Poppy England, Rachel Riley, Lilly + Sid, Mini A Ture and Kissy Kissy. New signings, meanwhile, include CWF’s new in-house label Carrément Beau, as well as La Pitchoune, Lola Myer UK, Elks, Bluebelle and Co, Belles Pommes, Diddywear, Edward Sinclair, Funkykids Ro, Holly Hastie, Jump Junior, Jose Varon, Love Made Love, Nature en Scene and Magnus & Mouse.

As with every season, Bubble London has a number of new initiatives in store, one being the addition of an interactive element to its Rising Star programme. Entitled Pitch Perfect, the new concept is designed to give brands the chance to present their products to a panel of retailers in order to gain valuable feedback in the process. For buyers, Pitch Perfect offers the exclusive opportunity to forge relationships with the best, new exhibitors and learn more about the people and stories behind the brands, from how they were founded to what inspires the collections.

There will be Pitch Perfect sessions on both days of the show, with each brand given five minutes to introduce their product to the panel, followed by a question and answer session.

Other highlights to watch out for this season include the return of the seminar programme, the Bubble Runway fashion show and an installation created by fashion stylist Fran Lee. —

CIFF KIDS 25-27 January 2015 Forum Copenhagen, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, 1925 Frederiksberg, Copenhagen www.ciff.dk This season marks big changes for children’s fashion fair CIFF Kids, with a move of location from Bella Center to the new venue of Forum Copenhagen. CIFF Kids will now also run on independent dates from its parent show CIFF, which takes place from 29 January to 1 February.

The show’s a/w 15 edition is set to showcase over 300 brands from the children’s universe together with new collaborations with creative consultants, a newly appointed visitor relations team and a campaign with children’s magazine Papier Mache.

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INDX KIDSWEAR  15-16 February 2015 Cranmore Park, Shirley, Solihull www.indxshow.co.uk/kidswear The show formerly known as Independent Kids will launch its rebranding this season.

Now known as Indx Kidswear, the rebranding brings kidswear in line with the Indx brand and its family of fashion exhibitions that include menswear, womenswear, intimate apparel and accessories.

Taking place at the same venue of Cranmore Park, Solihull, Indx Kidswear will present both immediate delivery s/s collections alongside forward-order a/w offerings across babywear, childrenswear, christeningwear, occasionwear and gifts.

The exhibitor list of around 90 brands includes new signings Angel’s Face, Animal, Belle & Boo, Cakewalk, CMP, Emile et Rose, Funky Giraffe, Garcia Jeans, Happi Joey, Heritage, Lemon Loves Lime, Me Too, Platypus Australia, Rosalita Senoritas, The Wardrobe, Tuc Tuc and USB.2. Key returns, meanwhile, include Billieblush, Billybandit, Hatley, Kissy Kissy, Lilly + Sid, Mayoral and Toby Tiger.

Indx Kidswear is exclusively for independent buyers, who receive free lunch and refreshments at the show.

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PLAYTIME PARIS 31 January – 2 February 2015 Parc Floral de Paris www.playtimeparis.com Offering 420 exhibitors across children’s fashion, footwear, accessories, toys, décor, baby product and maternitywear, this season’s Playtime Paris includes awards, activities with Vogue Bambini, Marie-Claire Enfants and Doolittle, and Kid’s Wear’s 20th anniversary exhibition.

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MINI MODA  15-17 February 2015 NEC, Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk After its successful debut in August 2014, Mini Moda returns this season showcasing the top children’s footwear labels from across the globe in one stand-out area.

Building on the growing reputation for kids’ product within Moda Footwear, Mini Moda offers a new destination for buyers and brands from the UK and beyond, offering a prime buying opportunity for both specialist kids’ retailers and those looking to extend their footwear offer. New signings include Igor, alongside key returns such as Lelli Kelly, Miss Sixty, Bo-Bell, Petasil, Bobux, Chipmunks, Gioseppo, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Bambi, Froddo, Noel France, Pediped, Pepino, William Lamb, Richter, Lea Lelo and Daisy Roots.

— LITTLE BARCELONA 8-10 February 2015 Recinto Ferial Ifema, Momad Metrópolis, Madrid www.littlebarcelona.com This season Little Barcelona is relocating from Barcelona to join international fashion trade fair Momad Metrópolis in Madrid. While remaining an independent show, the event will provide children’s fashion and product for Momad Metrópolis, which has over 900 brands of men’s and women’s fashion and footwear.

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PLAYTIME TOKYO 24-26 February 2015 Belle Salle Shibuya Garden, Tokyo, Japan www.playtimetokyo.com Offering 230 collections encompassing everything from children’s fashion, footwear and accessories through to maternitywear, Playtime Tokyo is expecting around 2,300 visitors. New exhibitors include Tutu du Monde, Angeles, 3DB, Harry’s Garden Organics and Yuri Park.

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LITTLE FASHION WEEK 14-16 February 2015 Tour & Taxis, Avenue du Port 86c, Brussels, Belgium www.littlefashionweek.com Little Fashion Week is a children’s exhibition in Brussels, the first and last day of which is reserved to trade and the second open to public. The event does feature international brands, but focuses on Belgian production.

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PLAYTIME NEW YORK 28 February – 2 March 2015 Metropolitan West, New York www.playtimenewyork.com Taking place from its new winter venue of Metropolitan West, the theme of this season’s Playtime New York is Parlor Games, and will include children’s trend spaces.

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BLOGGERS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

READERS’

CORNER If you’re seeking inspiration, need a creative boost or simply want something new and interesting to read, check out some of CWB’s favourite kids’ fashion and lifestyle blogs.

WOW KDL Far away, in the tropical outskirts of Bangkok, former fashion PR and mother-of-three Nicoletta Romei writes her design blog Wow Kids Design Living (WOWkdl). Covering international children’s fashion, design and family living, WOWkdl is eye-candy for those looking for inspiration via beautiful and engaging photography led posts. www.wowkdl.blogspot.co.uk

KID Kids’ fashion and urban lifestyle are the focus of Kid, by Maria Rose, a Danish mum living in Barcelona.

Launched in spring of this year, Kid channels Rose’s discoveries of new brands and independent designers who take an alternative, ethical and fun approach to kids’ fashion. The blog complements Rose’s online kidswear store, CozyKidz.net, which is also worth a visit as a great example of a contemporary, design-led e-commerce site. www.kid-fashionblog.com

DINKY AND DANDY Dinky and Dandy is both a source of inspiration and useful information on all things children, from fashion and interiors through to cool illustrators, party ideas and crafts. Created

by Kelle Aitken, an art director, blogger and stylist based near London who has a background in fashion buying, retail marketing and graphic design, this blog is the perfect all-rounder for children’s design. www.dinkyanddandy.com

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THE COOL HEADS The Cool Heads blog “curates art, design and styles for cool boys and their contemporary parents.” Created by Amsterdam-based Kiki Kouthoofd, professional photographer and mother to two boys, the blog shares her visions on style, art, design, food and DIY, together with a host of other interesting material for boys, depicted mainly through her natural medium of photography. www.thecoolheads.com

POP STREET KIDZ With a direct focus on kids’ fashion, Los Angeles based Pop Street Kidz reports on what’s new, now and next. The aim of the blog, according to its author Shannon Goldberg, is that those who read it “take away a little bit of delicious, a laugh, a slice of inspiration, a new thought and, of course, many fabulous fashion and style finds that appeal to every budget level.” One for those who love to discover new designers and boutiques. www.popstreetkidz.com

SAND IN YOUR SHORTS Kirsi Altjõe is the face behind Estonian kids’ fashion and lifestyle blog Sand in Your Shorts. As former editor in chief of the Estonian family magazine Pere & Kodu (Family & Home), writing is obviously second nature to Altjõe, something that is reflected both in the content and professional design of the blog. Sand in Your Shorts covers everything from fashion to design brands and furniture, with the majority of products featured designed and made in Estonia, Latvia or Lithuania alongside some international content. www.sandinyourshortskidsblog.com

THE MUMDAY TIMES Eleonore “Ellie” Crompton describes herself as a style writer and recovering shopaholic, and since becoming a mother of two girls, uses her blog The Mumday Times to share her finds on products for kids. The UK-based blog is a mixture of independent and high street, with posts covering such topics as kids’ fashion, interiors and baby gadgets. www.themumdaytimes.tumblr.com

PETIT & SMALL Petit & Small is all about international kids’ design, offering up aspirational interiors, furniture, fashion, crafts and toys. This blog is a feast for the eyes, drawing you in with its beautifully photographed product and clean, contemporary layout. www.petitandsmall.com

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PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Style GUIDE:

MOLO £13.60 020 7250 0569 —

LET IT SNOW: If you believe the media hype, we are in for a cold and snowy winter. CWB’s selection of snow boots are the perfect accessory to help combat the white stuff.

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

OLANG Price on request 01787 881144 —

SOREL £27.50 0808 234 0228 —

BOGS £22.50 0800 032 3505 —

CHIPMUNKS £12 01925 710110 — NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 28

Early Days, Baby Shoes for all Occasions

NEW WEBSITE NOW OPEN

Hand made in the UK since 1952 For a copy of our latest catalogue please contact: Early Days, 15 b Mandervell Rd, Oadby, Leicester, LE2 5LQ Tel: 01162 716944 Email: sales@earlydays.ltd.uk www.earlydays.ltd.uk

See us at Bubble, Stand B47

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MORE MEMORIES Morplan celebrates 170 years this year as a supplier to the industry and one of its leading providers of mannequins and store-fit solutions. Christina Williams takes a look back over 17 decades in the trade, and finds out why the business model has been so successful.

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Established at a time when a 25-year-old Queen Victoria was on the throne, Morplan’s origins are rooted in a different world.

When George Morrish set up a small print workshop outside his house in South London’s Camberwell, his business aspirations would never have stretched beyond printing, and he certainly wouldn’t have imagined his small family business becoming the national leader in store-fit supplies.

Over 17 decades, however, Morplan has evolved from its humble beginnings, producing paper bags and stationery for retailers, to the nationwide supplier to over 50,000 customers. Offering 5,000 stocked products – of which clothes rails are the bestseller – Morplan is the first port of call for retailers of all types looking for mannequins, rails, display stands, carrier bags, hangers and personalised printing supplies.

“We evolved partly as a result of our relocation in 1984 to the Oxford Street area,” says Norman Haynes, Morplan’s marketing director. “Throughout the reign of Queen Victoria, our staff would have been rubbing shoulders with tanners, blacksmiths, tailors and seamstresses, and they tailored their offer

to the nearby businesses. The printing of knitting patterns, for example, soon expanded into the service of showing off the finished product, for example a mannequin and, combined with our quality and price and service, that is how we became what we are today.”

Although primarily a B2B model, Morplan still has its flagship store in the Oxford Street area to this day, along with two others in Glasgow and Bristol, all of which sell directly to the public. The company’s multichannel strategy, meanwhile, sees it despatch 500 orders a day via its catalogue, telephone hotline and website, while the traditional model of stores being visited by a rep prevails for retailers wanting a dedicated appointment.

It’s a supply network that spans the UK and Ireland and, three years ago, the company was awarded one of the highest accolades to which a British business can aspire – the Royal Warrant.

“The Queen’s dresser uses some of our products to keep Her Majesty looking picture perfect,” says Haynes. “Our primary focus is the UK market – although we do export our products – so it was a real achievement to

receive such a prestigious endorsement.”

With its combination of cutting-edge aspirations and traditional family run values that stretch back over 170 years, Morplan is a one-of-a-kind business. The company was owned by successive generations of the Morrish family up until 1982, when the business was sold to print and packaging group Ferguson International Holdings.

More recently, in 1999 the Retif Group – a business with a similar product portfolio – acquired Morplan and, to this the day, the Group is running the business in accordance with its ethics and ongoing legacy as the trade’s leading store solutions supplier.

“We offer just about everything you need to run a successful retail business with the three essential factors of quality, price and service,” says Haynes. “With such a flexible approach, I’d like to think we would still be the UK’s leading wholesale supplier in another 170 years’ time.”

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SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

DAVID LUKE

38: News

40: Women in uniform While women still only represent a fraction of senior roles in business, over recent years the balance has been shifting. CWB speaks to some of the schoolwear sector’s leading business women to discuss their career paths.

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE… 20: Shaping up childrenswear Alvanon helps childrenswear professionals make better-fitting garments and achieve a standard of fit consistently across supply chains.

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SCHOOLWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Schoolwear NEWS: The latest news from the schoolwear industry SCHOOLWEAR INDIE EXCELS IN CUSTOMER RELATIONS Offering school uniform across Dorset, independent retailer Dorset Schoolwear has employed a variety of strategies to maximise customer relations.

As well as utilising social media via Facebook and Twitter, where it publicises in-store promotions, sales, offers, new product news and competitions, Dorset Schoolwear also has a Customer Club.

Joined via a form on the retailer’s website, www.dorsetschoolwear.co.uk, members of the Club automatically receive benefits such as automatic access to book “priority service” appointments, emails receiving appropriate news, school uniform maintenance hints and tips, priority notice of sales, discounts and clearance lines and, as of January 2015, entry into termly prize draws and bonus draws.

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ROWLINSON SECURES STOCKPORT BUSINESS AWARD Rowlinson recently won the Best Employer award in the Stockport Business Awards 2014, an accolade presented to the company at a dinner and awards ceremony at the Hallmark Hotel, Manchester. Rowlinson has been in business in Stockport for 79 years, and is well linked with the education and training providers in the area.

Launched three years ago, the Stockport Business Awards are designed to highlight and celebrate business excellence in the region, which boasts a thriving business community and has over 17,000 businesses across many sectors.

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THE YEAR THAT WAS

BALMORAL LAUNCHES FASHION BRITISH WOOL KNITWEAR Balmoral, UK manufacturer of school and corporate knitwear, has extended its remit to include a range of fashion British Wool Knitwear.

The development follows Balmoral’s attendance in June at London’s Make It British – Meet the Manufacturers event, which introduces UK textiles manufacturers to new customers, particularly in the retail-brand sector.

“Since retail brands have not been a focus of Balmoral traditionally, we decided to attend as an experiment,” says Mike Carden, Balmoral’s marketing director.

“There was considerable interest in our still manufacturing in Britain (we make around 2,000 garments a week in our factory in Ayrshire), but the retail-brand customers were particularly interested in whether we could knit in British Wool.”

Following successful trials testing British Wool yarns on its knitting machines, Balmoral is now making its first order in British Wool and has introduced a British Wool page to its website.

“This is certainly an area we plan to grow,” adds Carden. “We have signed up for the same event in 2015, and have brand new sample products under development.”

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— The Schoolwear Association (SA) launched a national campaign to make school uniform more affordable for hard-working families. The SA, whose members clothe three quarters of Britain’s schoolchildren, wants the government to introduce a scheme similar to childcare vouchers to make school uniform tax deductible.

— KK Schoolwear toasted 60 years in business. Situated in Magherafelt, Northern Ireland, in

MONEY-SAVING WEBSITE BACKS SA CAMPAIGN The Schoolwear Association’s tax-free school uniform campaign has received the backing of Gemma Johnson, CEO of the money saving and management website MyFamilyClub.co.uk.

Johnson is backing the campaign for government to make it easier for parents to budget for high-quality and ethically sourced uniform, reducing the need for cheap, low-quality garments.

“At MyFamilyClub we hear from families on a regular basis who have gone through numerous sets of school uniform from the major supermarkets within the same term,” she says. “They are naturally disappointed and very frustrated that these haven’t lasted.”

This support from MyFamilyClub is in addition to previous endorsements from sites such as dadzclub.com, whose founder Craig Hodgson says, “School uniform is something to be proud of, but it can also be a costly affair for parents. This scheme will certainly help parents budget and plan for those torn trousers and lost jumpers.”

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DAVID LUKE APPOINTS NEW MD After more than three decades at the helm of David Luke, MD David Burgess has stepped down from the role to be replaced by his daughter and the company’s former commercial director, Kathryn Shuttleworth.

Shuttleworth, 36, who was made David Luke’s commercial director in 2013, is well-equipped for her new challenge, having been with the company since 2002, working across almost all areas of the business during that time.

Supporting Shuttleworth will be an experienced team of directors and managers, with Burgess stepping into the role of executive chairman.

“It will be a new era, but still with the same values and principles that have guided our thinking since 1982,” says Burgess. “Kathryn will be responsible for driving the David Luke 2020 vision forward, focusing on customer service, alongside growth in sales and profitability.”

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the same purpose-built factory since 1973, the company still remains a family business after 60 years.

— Worthing schoolwear manufacturer Charles Kirk celebrated 75 years of manufacturing.

Company, which manufactures woven labels and name tapes, underwent re-branding.

— For Back to School, supermarket Aldi launched the lowest-cost school uniform on the UK market at £4.

— Leicester independent school uniform retailer John Cheatle went into administration.

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WOMEN IN UNIFORM While women still only represent a fraction of senior management roles in business, over recent years, the balance has been shifting. CWB speaks to some of the schoolwear sector’s leading business women to discuss their career paths.

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KATHRYN SHUTTLEWORTH MANAGING DIRECTOR OF SCHOOL UNIFORM AND SPORTSWEAR SUPPLIER DAVID LUKE How has your career unfolded?

I studied psychology at university before getting a place on the graduate management training scheme at Cussons, the Imperial Leather soap company. It was a great firm to work for and gave me a really good introduction into business and manufacturing.

Following that, I moved to Arthur Andersen to go into tax advisory work. I worked there around the time of the Enron scandal, so it was a fascinating time to be part of the organisation. However, it did make me realise that I wanted to work in a smaller organisation, where you could really make a difference to the performance of the business. So when a job came up in 2002 at David Luke, where I had spent much of my youth helping my dad – former MD and our new executive chairman David Burgess – out in the summer holidays, I jumped at the chance. I didn’t get the job I initially went for in buying as a very capable buyer was on the market at the same time, so I started with the customer services team. I then worked my way across the whole David Luke business, working within every department.

I’m delighted to say I was appointed MD of the company last month.

— Did you always have ambition to manage a company?

I’ve always had a sense of wanting to lead things – you can read into that, bossy!

And from having a background with big businesses, I felt the opportunities to do that were greater within an SME environment.

— What is your work ethic?

I’ve always wanted to show those around me that I am prepared to do any job that needs to be done – if you aren’t prepared to get your hands dirty, I don’t think you can ask those working for you to do the same. But the most important thing for me is to recognise the abilities of others and always work to encourage people to achieve their potential.

This is something I want to focus on more now in my new role as MD. — Who have been your business mentors?

My dad has been without question my biggest mentor along the way. The values he has instilled in me, and the sense of fairness that governs all he does, have been influential in the way I would like to lead. It is rare to find people in business who are not motivated by the need to push themselves forward at the expense of others, but I believe he achieves that. More recently, I have had some very inspirational advice from successful business women in the schoolwear industry – Gill Phipps from Early Years, who has successfully navigated succession, and Helen Serrano from Schooltogs, both of whom are such strong figureheads in their businesses. I plan to speak to them more about how to lead so effectively.

— Is being a woman in business challenging?

I haven’t ever seen being a woman challenging in the workplace. I do object to very male-centric networking events – they can be alienating for women – but I think they are reducing in importance so it doesn’t concern me. The differences you generally see between men and women in the workplace are advantages, and bring the diversity required to get the best results. The combination of styles is a positive thing.

— The schoolwear industry is relatively maledominated, but do you feel over recent years

there has been some advancement in more senior-level females?

It does seem to be the case in many industries now – there is a direct relationship between businesses that embrace diversity and those that are successful, so the gradual advancement is happening. I see a lot of women in the schoolwear industry though, and I believe that the number taking on senior positions will continue to increase – and for all the right reasons.

— What are your key business tips?

I’m perhaps not yet experienced enough to be giving out advice, but I would say to anyone that you get out of things what you put in. Although there can be a lot of juggling priorities as a working woman with a family, you’ve got to approach everything positively and enjoy all the challenges along the way.

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PEOPLE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

LAURA WATTS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF MARTON MILLS CO LTD, A YORKSHIRE FABRIC WEAVER WHOSE PRODUCTION IS FOCUSED ON SUPPLYING A STOCK SUPPORTED RANGE OF SCHOOLWEAR How has your career unfolded?

After finishing my degree and qualifying as a nurse, I worked at a London Cardiothoracic Unit for six years. During this time I also worked as a medic in the TA attached to the Infantry.

Following a move back to Yorkshire, where I grew up, I continued my career at Cordis, a franchise of Johnson & Johnson. This involved promoting treatments for heart disease to consultant cardiologists.

In 2009 I agreed to join the family business, Marton Mills Co Ltd, with the long-term goal of following on from my father, Duncan Watts.

Starting in production, I worked in planning and within various departments including accounts and sales, before being promoted to managing director in September.

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Did you always have ambition to manage a company?

I knew it could be an option, having grown up alongside the family business, and working there during the school holidays from an early age.

— What is your work ethic?

I try to maintain a positive outlook and focus on solutions rather than problems. I strive to have a clear vision, with ambition to succeed, and be able to recognise the attributes and values of a team to allow them to reach their full potential. I also believe you should have knowledge and understanding of every aspect of your business.

— Who has been your business mentor?

My father – I have the utmost respect for him.

He has a wealth of knowledge and experience.

Being an accountant, he has an invaluable skill set, which has proven vital in surviving the recent economic challenges.

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Is being a woman in business challenging?

It is when you have a young family, because there is a constant challenge to manage a work-life balance. I also believe women have to be prepared to work harder to prove themselves and gain the same respect as men.

— The schoolwear industry is relatively male-dominated, but do you feel over recent years there has been some advancement in more senior-level females?

UK manufacturing is still male-dominant.

There are many family businesses within the schoolwear sector, so the opportunities are there, and it’s great to see other females coming through. It is important for Boards to represent society, and this is especially true in the schoolwear market.

— What are your key business tips?

Stand out; make yourself and your successes visible. Many women feel forced to choose between having children and furthering their career but, with a little planning, you can do both.

HELEN SERRANO DIRECTOR OF GRIDLINE ENTERPRISES LTD, T/A THE SCHOOL UNIFORM RETAILER SCHOOLTOGS AND THE FAMOUS SCHOOL BRANCHES How has your career unfolded?

I started working straight after my A-levels in 1983 as a trainee accountant in a packaging company. I studied with day release and qualified in 1987 at the age of 22. From there I moved to Metal Box and worked as a factory accountant and then in Group reporting, until I took a career break in 1994. I returned to work as an accountant for Worcestershire County Council in 1999 but found juggling work and three small children quite a challenge. Working for myself was a solution. It was by chance I got into schoolwear; in short, I wandered into the School Shop Worcester in 2000 and thought “I like this business”. A few weeks later I was the owner.

— Did you always have ambition to manage a company?

Probably, yes. I come from a family background where we owned our own businesses. My father always made it clear that he would support me if I wanted to start my own venture, which he did. But as a traditional Yorkshire man, he made sure I paid it all back – that way I would work harder.

I have enjoyed running my own business; it has helped me that I worked within a factory and administration background for many years beforehand.

— What is your work ethic?

I have passion for my work and industry. I like to get things right and strive to do so. I still get a kick out of gaining business and seeing our enterprise grow. I am a hands-on person and am involved with the whole business – probably too much, I’m sure my staff would

say! A good business leader has energy that resonates through their organisation; someone who can lead from the front but take their team with them. My organisation has grown because of the people within it – many of us have grown together through our experiences.

— Who have been your business mentors?

My father, a very successful businessman in his own field who brought me up to believe I could do anything if I wanted to and was prepared to work hard to achieve it. As he would say, “the harder I work, the luckier I become.”

Alan Thomas, the financial director at Metal Box, believed in me and supported me.

I was the only woman in the team in the early 90s and, at times, it was not easy. He guided me, for which I am grateful. Also John Yelland, my accountant since 2000, whose intellect and business experience I admire, and with whom I can easily discuss business situations.

And my partner, Mike Hardy, who does not work in my field, but always listens, gives sound advice and tolerates me.

— Is being a woman in business challenging?

In the 80s and 90s, yes. Every day I was at the end of discrimination. It was just accepted in the workplace. I recall an appraisal in 1989 while being a factory accountant. I was the only woman on the management team, and the director told me I had to be “twice as good as any man in the role.” Nowadays, challenges are juggling family needs with the workplace. Times have moved on in terms of discrimination, but women are still expected to be the major carer of the family.

— The schoolwear industry is relatively male-dominated, but do you feel over recent years there has been some advancement in more senior-level females?

I think this is in line with the industry as a whole. The “glass ceilings” are being broken by women and it makes for a better industry.

We have a mixed team here, for instance, and it works.

— What are your key business tips?

Be prepared to work hard, listen to advice and always be a team player. When it gets tough, work a little harder, but never forget what is really important – your family. >>> NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 37

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GILL PHIPPS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF SOLIHULL SCHOOL UNIFORM SHOP, EARLY YEARS How has your career unfolded?

My father started school uniform shop Early Years in 1968 and I initially had no plans to join the business. In 1975, I started a hotel and catering course, believing that was the career route I wished to pursue. However, it wasn’t for me, and in 1976 I joined Early Years, where I planned to spend one summer while I decided what I really wanted to do – I never left!

— Did you always have ambition to manage a company?

Absolutely not. However, a family business draws you in, and I just evolved into the role.

— What is your work ethic?

I believe that things are only achieved if you are prepared to work for them – you get out what you put in. I believe a good business leader is fair and understanding and, while they must always be prepared to take on board other people’s ideas and suggestions, they must be willing to take the ultimate responsibility for their decisions.

— Who have been your business mentors?

I have really appreciated the support and advice given to me by many people within the industry, especially Charles Horton of Charles

Kirk, David Burgess of David Luke and Chris Campbell of Howard Bros and Pullens.

— Is being a woman in business challenging?

I actually feel ours is an industry where women can succeed. When going into schools, you can often express your opinions not only as a retailer, but also as a mum – you have first-hand experience of the washing and wearing issues of school uniform and what is practical to parents. I feel this is definitely an industry where the way your business is run is far more important than the gender of the person running it.

— The schoolwear industry is relatively male-dominated, but do you feel over recent years there has been some advancement in more senior-level females?

I agree that in some ways it is a male-dominated industry but, even within the firms that are predominantly run by men, if you look in the background there are

some strong women – Bernadette Hawkes at Falcon, Lesley Taylor at G Winterbottom and Heather Walker at Trutex. There are also very determined women who have run their own business – Helen Serrano of Schooltogs, Christine Campbell of Howard Bros; we ladies are definitely standing our ground.

— What are your key business tips?

In this industry you can definitely advance, but it takes hard work, effort and determination.

SARAH HORTON-PARSONS CUSTOMER RELATIONS AND MARKETING FOR SCHOOLWEAR MANUFACTURER CHARLES KIRK

How has your career unfolded?

During summer holidays I’d worked in most of the factory departments of my parents’ company, Charles Kirk, so I had good working knowledge of the processes. I found the making up of garments very interesting and wanted to learn more about the management of the company. I worked throughout the office, learning aspects of our accounts department, sales team and taking on the challenge of our new heat-press printing. I also helped the company re-brand a couple of years ago, and helped run the sales office.

After completing my university degree in

sports development and coaching sciences, there weren’t many job opportunities and I wanted to travel. So I joined Charles Kirk fulltime in the office for two years on the condition I could go travelling for three months during that time. However, I went to New Zealand and Australia and I have now been with the company for over five years. Today, I oversee the running of all aspects of our customer services department and am working towards taking over all operational aspects of the company.

— Did you always have ambition to manage a company?

I did write in my school report that I wanted to be the “big boss of Charles Kirk when I was older”. When I left university, I was still trying to discover what I wanted to achieve in life. It wasn’t until after a couple of years working at Charles Kirk that I started to believe it was something I could do in the future; and do well.

— What is your work ethic?

To work hard and look after all customers as best I can, no matter who they are or how much business they do with us. Sometimes I am told I work too hard, but while I am young and able to put time into the business, I will. I think to be a good leader you have to be positive, personable and communicative, so you can inspire your team and build relationships with your customers. You have to be committed to the business and happy to take on any challenge.

Who have been your business mentors?

Our two factory managers Kate and Ali helped mentor me with the day-to-day running of the factory and personnel management. My main mentors, however, are my parents Charles and Deborah Horton. I am learning from them every day, and hope to be able to keep growing the business in the same way they have.

— Is being a woman in business challenging?

I haven’t yet found it that challenging. I feel I built up respect as I was learning about the business and working within the factory, and many people knew me as I have been visiting our factory since babyhood. I have had a lot of support from everyone, allowing me to develop into different roles.

— The schoolwear industry is relatively male-dominated, but do you feel over recent years there has been some advancement in more senior-level females?

Yes, there appears to be more females taking leading roles both in supplier and retail schoolwear concerns. This is both a reflection of the wider business world and also in small companies where family commitments can be more easily juggled than in a corporate environment.

— What are your key business tips?

Always believe in yourself and be strong. Work hard, take as much advice and feedback as you can get, and make sure you have support and a good team around you.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 38

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MAUREEN DOLAN Founder and CEO of children’s luxury UV swimwear brand Sand Dollar Swim

Model and mother-of-four Maureen Dolan studied fashion design and owned a boutique before embarking on her latest project of founding Sand Dollar Swim – a luxury label of UV children’s swimwear, which launched at Pitti Bimbo in Florence earlier this year.

—

Laura Turner: Your background includes studying fashion design, owning a fashion boutique and being an ex-model. Has this experience lent itself to launching your own brand?

Maureen Dolan: Yes, certainly. Fashion design taught me about fabric design and finishes to a garment. Modelling gave me “the inside” on how to style a shoot and understand what goes on in the background, while owning a fashion boutique has given me the insight to the business side of fashion. Beyond previous experience, devising a good business plan and having goals and sticking to them have been at the core of my setting up and running Sand Dollar Swim.

shimmers in the sun. For the boys, I love the Mask story – the colours are great.

LT: What is the brand’s ethos?

MD: Sand Dollar Swim combines my passions for sun safety and fashion. It is founded on the basis of making UV swimwear more stylish so children want to be seen wearing it, and can have fun in the sun. It also has the niche of catering beyond the typical toddler market, offering sun-safe swimwear for children up to 12 years of age.

LT: Which other childrenswear brands do you admire?

MD: Molo, for its quirkiness and design. It is a very cool and stylish brand.

LT: What does the collection comprise?

MD: Catering for 1-12 years, with different styles for different ages, the collection comprises five stories for boys – Jungle Animals, Jungle Mask, Alien, Splash Paint and Surf, and five for girls – Star Fish, Tie Dye, Sparkle, Peacock and Jungle Mask.

LT: Have buying habits for children’s swimwear altered over recent years?

MD: Travel has become more accessible; people used to travel once a year – typically in summer – but now they are also taking winter-sun breaks, creating year-round demand for UV swimwear. Children have become a lot more fashion aware at a younger age, too, and like to get involved when choosing what they wear. Parents, meanwhile, are more mindful of sun damage, so you see less call for bikinis and more requests for fuller-coverage garments like rash tops.

LT: What are the plans for the business, and where do you hope to see it in five years’ time?

MD: We would like to be a global brand and the first UV label that people think of when travelling to hot countries. Further down the line, I’d like fulfilment centres throughout the world.

NAME: Maureen Dolan JOB TITLE: Founder and CEO of Sand Dollar Swim DATE OF BIRTH: 14 April 1972 PLACE OF BIRTH: Ireland NOW LIVES: Blackrock, Co Dublin

LT: What are the key design features of the garments?

MD: We use a fast-drying, breathable fabric by the Italian manufacturer Carvico for all Sand Dollar Swim items. Our garments also feature zips to make them easier to take off and they are all SP 50+. We focus on beautiful, stylish pieces that are comfortable to wear, inspiring and energetic.

LT: Do you personally get involved with the design and production?

MD: Yes, from picking colours of fabrics and the design of garments to making sure the fit is correct and travelling to factories. I’m involved in the whole process.

LT: Which is your favourite Sand Dollar Swim piece so far?

MD: It is hard to pick a favourite! The girls’ long sleeve Sparkle story is so pretty – it just NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2014 - 42

Belles Pommes is showing for the very first time in the UK. Show dates for AW15 Ranges: Bubble London 1st/2nd February 2015 - Stand D29 Manchester 3rd/4th February Boroughbridge, Yorkshire 5th/6th February Indx Childrens wear 15th/16th February

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