CWB 096

A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

Incorporating

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER:

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW Exclusive preview of the exhibition’s offer for BTS 2016 THE ROWLINSON SCHOOL OF THOUGHT Rowlinson becomes employee owned BLUE MAX BANNER: THE NEXT PHASE Developments following the firm’s recent management buyout

www.cwb-online.co.uk October 2015 Issue 96 £9.95

CONTENTS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CONT ENTS:

22

43 36

24 REGULARS

FEATURES

SCHOOLWEAR

05: Comment

12: Ecommerce for SMEs How smaller businesses can make the most of ecommerce

32: News

06: News 08: NCWA 10: Open for Business Legal and business advice plus industry opinion 16: Retail Therapy Store profiles and retail news 18: Brands to Watch Editor’s pick of brands 28: Style Guide Sleepwear 29: Laura Loves The coolest products for kids 66: Talking Point: David Burgess, chair of the Schoolwear Association

14: Increasing conversions with video marketing The benefits of video marketing including reducing returns and improving Google rankings 22: Pester control Why parents are struggling to say “no” to their children’s shopping demands 24: Trotters: 25 years The independent childrenswear chain celebrates 25 years 26: Christmas gift guide CWB’s selection of Christmas gift ideas for kids, available to get in-store now

36: The Rowlinson school of thought Rowlinson’s recent move to becoming an employee owned company and its continued investment in its people 38: Blue Max Banner: The next phase MD Nigel Plenderleith discusses Blue Max Banner’s recent management buyout 43: The Schoolwear Show Preview of what will be on offer at this month’s edition 56: Schoolwear heritage Interview with Matthew Easter, MD of Trutex

Cover: Trutex 01200 421200 www.trutex.com OCTOBER 2015 - 03

katetparkerphotography.com

See things differently…

LONDON

31 January & 1 February 2016

Register for your free ticket at bubblelondon.com B U B B L E LO N D O N . C O M

#DISCOVERBUBBLE

COM MENT: This month, we are focused on the schoolwear sector, and what the industry has to offer for BTS 2016.

In conjunction with The Schoolwear Show, which takes place on 11-13 October in Solihull, this issue we bring you the very latest on all things schoolwear-related.

For a taster of the latest product innovations set to hit the market for BTS 2016, see our extensive Schoolwear Show preview, which starts on page 43. We also have an exclusive industry announcement, hot off the press, concerning schoolwear supplier Rowlinson – the full story can be found on page 36 in our feature, The Rowlinson School of Thought. Elsewhere, we catch up with Trutex – which is celebrating an impressive 150 years in business this year – to discuss the company’s latest developments. And we speak to Blue Max Banner’s MD, Nigel Plenderleith, to discover what progress the business has made since its management buyout in July.

Don’t forget that the Schoolwear Association’s annual fundraiser takes place after the first day of The Schoolwear Show, with tickets available to purchase up until the day. The evening do is a great opportunity to wind-down and relax after the first day of the event, while also helping to support the Association and its work for the industry. This year’s theme is 70s-inspired, so dig out those flares and platforms and help support a worthy cause. We hope to see you there.

Aside from schoolwear, we take a look at the topic of “pester power” and why parents are finding it harder to say “no” to their children’s shopping demands in

Editor Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com Designers Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales executive Fiona Warburton fiona.warburton@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions data@ras-publishing.com Head of childrenswear Lindsay Hoyes lindsay@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics/printing Image Data Group Ltd 01482 652323

CWB is published 6 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 www.cwb-online.co.uk Copyright© 2015 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

COMMENT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

our report, Pester Control, on page 22. It’s an interesting insight into societal trends, especially as this one is altering shopping habits in our sector.

We continue with our digital business advice this issue with a focus on ecommerce for SMEs on page 12. Our video marketing report on page 14, meanwhile, provides food for thought, not only in terms of how it can bring product alive and help reduce returns, but also how video marketing can help SMEs improve their Google rankings.

Next issue, as well as taking our first look at a/w 16, we will be announcing the category finalists and revealing the winners of the first CWB Independent Retail Awards, which celebrate the best in UK independent childrenswear retail.

Laura Turner Editor

CWB is a joint venture between RAS Publishing and the National Childrenswear Association.

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication CWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include WWB and MWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group company.

OCTOBER 2015 - 05

NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CWB NEWS: KOZI KIDZ BRINGS IT HOME

BUBBLE LONDON POSES NEW AFFORDABILITY POP is the title of a new, affordable area launching at Bubble a/w 16, which takes place on 31 January and 1 February 2016.

Comprising pop-up stands at a lower price point, the curated space will allow small, innovative labels the chance to participate in the show. As well as serving as a “step-up” for these emerging designers to present their product and raise their profiles, it will bring buyers some of the industry’s most exciting new collections from brands they may otherwise not have discovered.

“Supporting up-and-coming designers and broadening the offer of the show is more important than ever,” says event director, Lindsay Hoyes. “POP will enable a certain band of innovative new labels to reach the wider industry while, at the same time, giving buyers a more varied offer from brands not normally associated with Bubble.”

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Doncaster outerwear brand Kozi Kidz has moved its product design from Sweden to the UK to ensure future product ranges are custom-made to meet the specifics of the UK market.

The move sees Kozi Kidz partner with local Sheffield outdoor equipment design firm Tim Fish Designs, which has worked with numerous high-profile brands including Berghaus, Montane, Karrimor and Millican.

“The Kozi Kidz concept was born in Sweden, but has grown up in the UK, so it is incredibly important that our designs reflect the intricacies of the UK market,” says Kozi Kidz director Linda Torstensson. “Having the design team on our doorstep in Sheffield gives us the opportunity to play a much more integral role in the entire process.”

The first Kozi Kidz collection developed with Tim Fish Designs launches for a/w 16.

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BOGS EXPANDS UK SALES TEAM Children’s, men’s and women’s footwear label Bogs is expanding its UK sales force to accommodate business growth and continue development of the brand in key markets.

The move sees Bogs appoint Rob Humphries, Kevin Buck and Paul Tobin, who will join current sales representative Lee Budworth.

Headed up by UK sales manager Andrew Jackson, the new team will work to increase turnover and distribution in new sectors.

“As we continue to push ‘outdoor comfort’ as our key brand message through 2015 and into 2016, the expansion of the UK team will be instrumental in gaining greater momentum in the wider lifestyle markets,” says Riley Combs, VP sales for Bogs.

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MOLO OPENS HONG KONG STORE

FASHION LEADS STRONG SALES FOR JOHN LEWIS John Lewis’ interim results for the half-year ended 1 August saw solid sales growth, with gross sales of £1.94bn and like-for-like sales up 3.0 per cent.

Fashion was the standout performance, up 7.5 per cent, with the retailer’s strategy of combining an ambitious John Lewis own-brand offer with the best of other brands continuing to pay dividends. Johnlewis.com gross sales grew by 17.1 per cent to £647m.

Investment in shops includes the opening of John Lewis Birmingham last month, the first full-line department store to open in four years, representing a £35m investment. In-store services and experiences continued to expand during the half, as did John Lewis’ international footprint, with shop-in-shops in Singapore and the Philippines joining its existing Korean sites.

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Danish kidswear brand Molo has opened its first own-brand store in Hong Kong as part of a strategic collaboration with Molo and Amma Holdings, the brand’s new regional distributor.

Located in the shopping centre IFC amid luxury giants such as Gucci and Hugo Boss, the 100 sq m shop carries Molo’s baby and junior collection for boys and girls aged 0-14 years.

“Hong Kong is an internationally recognised fashion metropolis, and the market is a great match for our brand and products, which makes our possibilities of growing in East Asia very interesting,” says Molo’s CEO and founder, Mogens Jepsen.

The opening of the Hong Kong store is just the beginning of the brand’s global expansion, with Jepsen confirming it is “the first of a number of store openings planned in the future within East Asia.”

Established in 2003, Molo is headquartered in Copenhagen, and is sold in 30 countries worldwide.

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CLARE RAYNER HEADS UP RETAIL IT CONFERENCE Author and TV retail expert Clare Rayner will head up the Retail IT conference as the keynote speaker at next month’s event.

Taking place on 12 November from 2pm, the conference will see Rayner discuss her 10 Steps to Retail Success, covering points such as identifying your ideal customer and setting up an effective back office. Following this will be a presentation on the luxury retail market from Paul Thomas at Retail Remedy.

Brands confirmed to attend include Intersport, Foot Solutions and Scarecrow. Held at The Judges Court, Browns, 82-84 St Martin’s Lane, London WC2N, the event is free for those in the fashion and retail industry. To reserve a place email matthew@retailit.com.

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OCTOBER 2015 - 06

NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

POCO NIDO LAUNCHES NEW TRADE SITE

JOULES SEES RECORD PERFORMANCE

Children’s clothing and footwear brand Poco Nido has launched a new wholesale website designed to make it easier for stockists to order its products.

The site is easy to use and allows visitors to browse the range, check prices and stock levels, as well as order goods at wholesale cost through an online checkout system. To register, stockists and wholesalers need to fill out the form on the website to request access, which will be granted by a member of the Poco Nido team for added security.

“The launch of our trade website is a huge step forward for our brand,” says Poco Nido founder Catherine Lobley. “Not only does it give our current and potential new stockists 24/7 access to our range, but they can also check supply levels and order goods directly online, with no fuss or hassle. We’ve had some great feedback and can’t wait to invite new customers to register.” To sign up to the trade site visit http://wholesale.poconido.com.

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This year sees British lifestyle label Joules mark its 25th anniversary with a record performance, as revenue increased 22 per cent to £117m.

Overall, wholesale grew by 17.9 per cent, with continued expansion in the UK driven through national multi-channel retailers such as John Lewis and Next Labels, as well as smaller, independent specialist partners appropriate for the development of the Joules brand.

Joules also delivered growth across the core childrenswear, womenswear and menswear categories, as well as further development of homeware and eyewear. Additionally, in June, the brand announced the signing of an £11m credit facility secured from Barclays, taking its total facility with the bank to £26m to support further expansion and delivery of its clear growth strategy.

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NEXT UPSIZES AT TOUCHWOOD

A UNIQUE TAKE ON KIDSWEAR DESIGN

Last month, work was completed on a new 25,000 sq ft Next store in Touchwood, Solihull’s shopping centre – which includes an expanded childrenswear offer. The chain takes up two floors on the centre’s Crescent Arcade, adjacent to River Island, H&M and the recently opened Monsoon.

The store implements the brand’s latest design, and stocks the full range of Next products, including childrenswear, womenswear, menswear and accessories.

“Next’s decision to upsize follows its consistently strong performance at Touchwood,” says Guy Thomas, head of retail asset management at Lendlease, the property firm behind Touchwood. “We have worked closely with the team to create the ideal store format, as a consequence of which Next will be creating its new regional brand flagship.

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Launched online in August, MiniStreetStyle.com is a new, social fashion collection for kids, inspired by international street style and key fashion trends.

The concept comprises four stages. The first step sees the Mini Street Style team design three collections. Via social media and its website, the first samples are shared with consumers, who are invited to engage and vote on designs to help refine the final collection while also earning themselves discounts along the way. The next stage sees all comments fed back into the design process, refinements made, and the winning designs put into production. When the final collection items go on sale, the consumers who helped shape the collection are able to redeem their earned discounts.

The premier capsule collection for a/w 15 is due to go on sale to consumers at the end of this month.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

BIRA BANK CELEBRATES 60 YEARS This year sees Bira bank, the UK’s only trade association bank service offered to members of the British Independent Retailers Association (Bira), celebrate 60 years. “It is our privilege to serve indie retailers and offer support where other banks have failed to do so,” says John Collins, Bira bank MD. Having recently teamed up with The Mortgage Broker, Bira bank also offers members access to exclusive mortgage deals and free tailored advice.

SAINSBURY’S TAKES TU ONLINE Supermarket chain Sainsbury’s has launched a Tu clothing website, which provides nationwide access to its full collection, which includes childrenswear, womenswear and menswear.

A selection of Tu clothing is available in over 400 Sainsbury’s stores, though the full Tu clothing range was only accessible via the supermarket’s 160 stores carrying the full line.

The new online store sees a much wider range of items now available for next day delivery, standard delivery and click and collect.

Sainsbury’s Tu clothing sales grew to £800m earlier this year, making Tu the fifth largest childrenswear retailer by volume and seventh by value.

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BABY BRAND FINALIST IN UK SOCIAL ENTERPRISE AWARDS Babywear brand From Babies With Love, which donates 100 per cent of its profits to orphaned and abandoned children, is a finalist in this year’s UK Social Enterprise Awards.

The Awards recognise organisations for their business excellence and contribution to society, as well as the achievements of people working at the heart of the social enterprise sector.

Competing against almost 300 applications, From Babies With Love has been shortlisted as one of the five finalists for the International Impact Award.

Winners will be revealed at an awards ceremony on Thursday 26 November at the Underglobe on London’s Southbank.

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BELLE & BOO FOR ADULTS Belle & Boo Makes Everything Better is a new range of home and lifestyle products aimed at grown-ups from British children’s gift brand, Belle & Boo. The line, which includes homeware, cards, stationery and gift bags, is designed in a simpler and more paired-back style with an artisan feel. Founder Mandy Sutcliffe’s classic Belle & Boo illustrations are enhanced using letter-press and screen-print techniques for a handcrafted look.

CLEVER CLOGS APPOINTS Clever Clogs, distributor of a wide range of baby and kids’ products in Ireland and the UK, has appointed Karl Millergill as commercial director of Clever Clogs Trading UK. Millergill comes with a wealth of experience in fast-moving consumer goods(FMCG) and the baby industry, most recently with Bloom Baby.

OCTOBER 2015 - 07

NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

NCWA NEWS: The latest news from the National Childrenswear Association EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT: It is a little too early to determine the impact of the new government’s policies on the childrenswear industry, but already there is concern about the Chancellor’s announcement about minimum rates of pay.

Whatever one’s views on the National Minimum Wage, the process under which all industry sectors affected are consulted annually by the Low Pay Commission on the rates that should apply from the following year does, at least, give those industries the opportunity to state their views on the rates, the rules for apprentices and the enforcement regime. In addition, any change to the rates is announced in the spring for implementation in the autumn.

The consultation is under way on the rates that should apply from 1 October 2016, and NCWA will be making its views known. The Chancellor has, however, muddied the waters, by saying “a new National Living Wage of £7.20 an hour for those aged 25 and over” will be introduced in April 2016, some six months before the National Minimum Wage anniversary date of 1 October.

The last thing that the burgeoning, if still small, clothing manufacturing industry needs to see is a disproportionate increase in the Minimum Wage (or whatever it is to be called). The same goes for childrenswear retailers, whether they are independents or the largest high-street names and supermarkets. And those employers who pay all their staff more than the National Minimum Wage should worry too – because of the effect on differentials.

It seems the argument is that working tax credits have to be frozen or cut as part of the Spending Review but, in exchange, earnings will rise more than expected because of the changes to legally set minimum Rates, thus “negating” the impact on the lowest paid.

Whatever the reasoning, the government has to make clear what is going to happen next year. Is the National Living Wage to be introduced instead of the National Minimum Wage, and at a different time of the year? Will there still be different age rates, and an apprentice rate as currently? Will there be a different London rate than for the rest of the country, as espoused by the Living Wage Foundation?

The childrenswear industry is working hard to grow despite all the challenges it faces, and has faced from global recession. The least it can expect now is clarity on what is going to happen and no government policy that will kick it in the shins.

If you would like to contribute to debates on issues facing the childrenswear industry or find out more about NCWA and what it can do for you, visit www.ncwa.co.uk. Further information can be obtained by emailing info@ncwa.co.uk, or calling 020 7843 9488 and speaking to Michelle Payne. We look forward to hearing from you.

Elizabeth P Fox.

OLLYBEAR CHILDRENSWEAR www.ollybear.com Since launching in August 2013, Ollybear in East Kilbride, South Lanarkshire, has earned a solid reputation as the go-to place for clothing and accessories. Selling a range for babies, toddlers and children, the store offers brands such as Mayoral, Emile et Rose, Coco, Sarah Louise, Tutto Piccolo and Absorba. Recently, the retailer launched a responsive website for mobile or tablet, whereby customers can shop the range via the transactional platform. For a/w 15, Olly Bear will add new brands to its portfolio including Paul Smith Junior, Rachel Riley and Baby Graziella.

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RUBY & TED www.rubyandted.com Retailer Ruby & Ted started life as a bricks-and-mortar venture in 2007, though owner Anna Carr closed its doors in 2012 to focus on running the business solely online.

Since then, the family run retailer has concentrated on offering a wide selection of brands and a diverse product mix from its website under the same name. Products ranging from dresses and accessories to sleepwear and shoes are available in sizes from newborn to 12 years.

Labels include Lilly + Sid, Joules, Mini Vanilla, Hatley, Hippychick and Sugar Pink.

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NCWA Council: Chairman: DAVID HULL Agent Vice Chairman: VIRGINIA ROSS Pollyanna Retailer Imm Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH Emile et Rose Manufacturer Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS David Luke Ltd Manufacturer

Make your voice heard

Council Members: MARK BARNETT Barnett Agencies Agent NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent MALCOLM TRAVIS Travis Designs Manufacturer RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer JILLIAN PETRIE Young Trend Retailer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

• Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry.

• Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available.

Read our blog and follow us on Twitter

• Membership costs from £85.

OCTOBER 2015 - 08

NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

PRIZE-WINNING POOCH

STAR51 TEAMS WITH HOF

British childrenswear label Zuma the Dog has been awarded the Bizzie Baby Bronze award.

The brand’s products, which include jeans, T-shirts and an activity pack, were put to the test by parents and reviewers of the parenting website. The reviewers were impressed by the quality of the clothing.

“We love the fact these parents and their children enjoyed reviewing our products, and love our quirky design features that make Zuma the Dog so unique,” says brand owner Samantha Morgan. “It’s time for the market to keep an eye on Zuma the Dog. We know parents love our label, we know Zuma the Dog has legs and, soon, the brand will be running away with itself.”

The reviews are available to view at www.bizziebaby.co.uk.

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British childrenswear brand Star51 has signed a business partnership agreement with House of Fraser, and will be launching on Tmall later this year following discussions with the retailer’s CEO, Nigel Oddy.

“Since launching Star51, it has always been our intention to source, design and make in the UK,” says the British label’s co-founder, Banayioda Theodorou. “The clothes reflect a quintessential British brand, and we are excited to distribute our garments that are made in London to the rest of the world via House of Fraser.”

Star51’s a/w 15 range launched on House of Fraser online and www.star51.co.uk at the end of last month. The collection includes the introduction of boyswear, which incorporates a vintage feel, with materials all made in the UK. Key details include luxury cloths, embroidery and the brand’s signature “golden Star51 badge”.

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NEW RACHEL RILEY FOR ELOISE COLLECTION New York hotel The Plaza is debuting a new range of girlswear by British childrenswear designer Rachel Riley. The Rachel Riley for Eloise collection is part of a year-long celebration of the 60th anniversary of Kay Thomason’s Eloise at The Plaza storybooks. It offers a variety of pieces such as dresses, pyjamas and outerwear in sizes 12 months to 10 years, with each item inspired by the illustrations of Hilary Knight.

“It has been a delight to work with The Plaza on this collaboration,” says Rachel Riley. “The Eloise story was written in 1955, an era I love, so I have really tried to celebrate the glamour of the 50s with fabrics from the book’s vibrant illustrations. It is exciting to recreate outfits that reflect the irrepressible spirit of Kay Thompson’s most famous six-year-old in a way that is relevant for children today.”

The collection is available to buy exclusively at the Eloise at The Plaza shop and also online at www.rachelriley.com. In addition to the Eloise range, The Plaza stocks Rachel Riley print dresses and matching cardigans.

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MIMOSA TO BRANCH INTO WHOLESALE

ALVANON PARTNERS WITH FIT

Arancha Del Rio and Laura Peleteiro, the Spanish designers and owners of London girlswear label Mimosa are looking to develop their retail brand into wholesale.

With Mimosa’s manufacturer already producing for well-established labels in Spain, the capacity to work wholesale is already in place, with the main goal for the brand being to raise awareness through trade shows.

Established in August 2014, Mimosa caters for girls aged 4-12 years. Key for a/w 15 is a soft colour palette including shades of pink, grey and turquoise.

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Global Apparel business expert Alvanon has entered into a Fit Movement partnership with NYC educational college, the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). The collaboration supplies FIT’s School of Business and Technology with advanced technical-fit tools and provides its students with encouragement, mentoring and class seminars covering the business of fashion.

“Alvanon’s Fit Movement is designed to nourish, grow and re-establish the art and science of apparel manufacturing in New York City,” says Alvanon CEO Janice Wang. “To that end, we are working with industry associations and schools, and supplying them with tools, technology and training that address the manufacturing sector of the fashion business.”

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NEWS IN BRIEF

— FineYoungThings.com is a brand new ecommerce-only childrenswear website, which launched last month. Owners and husband-and-wife team, Eleni and Andy Hadjikakou, found inspiration from their three young boys for the site, which went live on 18 September.

The website features a selective number of international designer brands including Billieblush, Billybandit, Carrément Beau and Sticky Fudge for a/w 15, with the addition of Portuguese label DOT for s/s 16.

DESIGNED WITH KIDS IN MIND For a/w 15-16, organic brand Red Urchin has launched a new range of children’s accessories packaged in reusable gift bags. The gift bags, featuring the brand’s character Little Red, are designed to double up as a pencil case or wash bag.

The accessories collection includes the Snooch, a reversible snood, and the new Hoodie Snooch – which are available in reversible plain or patterned fabric options for 3-12 year olds.

Wristbands, fingerless gloves and arm-warmers are also available.

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— Children’s leggings brand Blade & Rose has launched a host of new designs for a/w. Highlights include a bear, elephant, heart and wing, hedgehog, robot, soldier and unicorn. Blade & Rose leggings are made from a combed cotton, nylon and spandex mix, and are available in sizes 0-6 months, 12-6 months, 1-2 years, 2-3 years and 3-4 years.

— John Lewis is seeking over 3,000 temporary staff to fill roles across the retail and distribution arms of its business, ahead of the festive shopping period. The retailer is recruiting new staff to assist customers in its 44 branches, with positions available across various departments including the John Lewis Christmas Shop, electrical and home technology, gift food and catering.

OCTOBER 2015 - 09

BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Open for BUSINESS Bringing you straight-talking legal and business advice.

SIMON BENNETT is a partner and GEORGINA FRASER is a trainee solicitor at Fox Williams LLP

MARK THORNTON Marketing director Maginus www.maginus.com

www.foxwilliams.com www.fashionlaw.co.uk

SOCIAL MEDIA – SOME TIPS ON HOW TO HANDLE DEFAMATORY COMMENTS Maintaining your reputation is not easy – reputations that have been carefully built up over years can be lost in a day or, in the case of social media, the click of a mouse.

The rise of social-media platforms and websites inviting consumers and sometimes suppliers to comment make it all too easy to air views about a brand or a retailer. So when a consumer, who could be genuinely disgruntled, or just looking to cause trouble, uses an online platform to launch an attack against a brand or product through a negative review or comment, the potential harm can be instantaneous.

Such actions are often in the form of posting false, exaggerated or inaccurate reviews on websites and social-media platforms, or posting negative comments on online forums.

Can I contact the individual directly?

Taking action directly against an individual author of a review or comment is a difficult course of action to pursue. This is largely due to the anonymity of the internet and the fact that it can be impossible to identify a user from their screen name.

Contacting the Internet Service Provider If your products or brand fall victim to false reviews that you believe are harming your reputation and you are unable to identify the individual author, you may be able to contact the Internet Service Provider that hosts the website.

The first step is to check the website’s terms and conditions. Websites that host forums often have a take-down procedure, which can be actioned if a comment is reported to be false or defamatory.

Failing this, owners of internet forums are required by law to take down a defamatory comment if the aggrieved party requests that they do so. Failure to act promptly can result in the owner of the forum being liable. In a landmark judgment a few years ago, an Internet Service Provider was successfully sued for libel after refusing to remove a forged message.

Internet Service Providers are restricted from disclosing the personal data of their users by data protection laws. Though it is permissible to disclose personal data in the event of a crime being committed, normally it is necessary to have a court order to obtain such disclosure. This can make it a time-consuming and costly route.

Issuing proceedings In cases where the comments or reviews are severely damaging or the author is a repeat offender, the best case may be to decide that issue proceedings is an appropriate course of action.

This can be a costly course of action to pursue, so brand owners would be well advised to only consider this option as a last resort or if the comments or reviews are significantly damaging.

No comment?

In many cases, not reacting is the best reaction. If you do react your reply should be carefully written as there is every chance that the aggrieved may make this public.

Practical steps • Regularly monitor online forums, social media platforms and review websites for negative publicity – set up a Google alert.

• If you come across a negative review or comment that is not justified check the notice and take-down provisions of the website and ask the forum owner to take down the comment.

• In more serious cases offer to deal with the customer complaint directly.

• Ensure any responses are thought through rather than posted in the heat of the moment.

• Take court action only in the most serious of cases.

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THE RISE OF THE SERIAL RETURNER – SEPARATING INDECISIVE SHOPPERS FROM PROFIT DRAINERS The UK fashion industry has made a rod for its own back by making it incredibly easy to return goods. This has created a new culture, in which online fulfilment has become the new fitting room, as Mark Thornton, marketing director at Maginus, a customer-centric omnichannel retail solution specialist, explains.

Shoppers can have the garments they desire delivered to their door, to try on in the comfort of their own home, and then a short walk to the post office will dispose of the items they don’t want.

While this is a costly exercise for retailers, it’s important to note that such practices are worthwhile if the customer concerned frequently buys several items. As consumers ourselves, we can all admit to being a little indecisive on occasion. What retailers really need to watch out for are the profit drainers; the ones who bulk up their basket to tip over into free delivery, only to send everything but a £5 vest back the next day.

For pure plays, assessing customer value rests on analysing the digital data generated by their transactions. Multi-channel retailers, however, must have an integrated system that brings together insights from customers’ online and offline activities – otherwise they face the risk of alienating a shopper who places good business in their stores.

By assessing shoppers’ lifetime value, retailers can then start to tailor their marketing differently to the low profit audience. This doesn’t necessarily mean promoting to them less, but changing tact.

For example, discount vouchers are likely to prompt yet more spur-of-the-moment shopping to be returned later. And, while some retailers offer click-and-collect incentives in the hope of reducing the cost of shipping items that stand a high chance of being returned, it is worth noting that this is only cost effective if businesses have the systems in place to identify whether they have product in-store and communicate the order to the store so the product is held for the customer.

— OCTOBER 2015 - 10

BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Three retailers discuss their social-media strategies for business including visual marketing via Pinterest and Instagram.

— RUTH LOPARDO Owner of online retailer Love It Love It Love It

DAVINA LEWIS Founder and owner Beeniebuds&co

MOLLY PRICE Owner, Molly Meg, London

www.beeniebudsandco.com

www.mollymeg.com

www.loveitloveitloveit.co.uk

Which social media accounts do you run?

All of them. I’m a social-media junkie and will always open an account on new platforms. You have to be careful not to spread yourself too thin, though. While it’s important to have a presence on the main platforms that your customers use, it’s best to concentrate on doing two or three and leave the others on the back burner.

The main ones for my business are Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest.

How do you use image-based accounts such as Pinterest and Instagram?

Until very recently, my Instagram account has been more about my family life than the business, but I’ve just started concentrating on the business aspect. I post photos of new stock, interesting combinations customers have chosen and customer photos of their children wearing clothes bought from Love It. Do you sell from Pinterest or Instagram?

Yes. People arrive on the site via both channels and go on to purchase products.

Pinterest has recently introduced the facility for US users to buy directly from a pin, so I’ll certainly be using that once it’s available in the UK. Instagram is more difficult as Http links don’t yet work in photos and comments, so customers have to actively go to your profile and then to your site to buy. As Instagram is owned by Facebook, they will no doubt find a way to monetise it very soon.

How important is it for you to interact with your customer? Do you have a business “tone”?

It’s critical. Social media is a brilliant tool for businesses to get to know their customers and vice versa. The voice I use is my own. I don’t have the time or head space to pretend to be anything else. However, each platform offers a very different user experience and expectation, so I modify my voice to suit each in the way that you would in real-life social settings.

Which social-media accounts do you use?

We use all of the main ones – Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest – and tend to update Twitter, Facebook and Instagram regularly. It is so much easier to manage social-media marketing now. Business tool sites such as Hootsuite and Buffer allow you to schedule posts weeks or months in advance.

How do you utilise Pinterest and Instagram?

We use a mixture of direct and related posts. This provides our business with a personal approach, which has proven to be popular. Additionally, as a small business, we’re always looking for inspiration and Pinterest is great for that, too. We have based our Pinterest boards on fashion trends, photography and crafts. It offers a great way to store all of our ideas, while also sharing them with customers.

Do you sell from Pinterest and Instagram?

No, but we promote the brands we stock.

They’re great for promoting launch dates and new arrivals. Using the right hashtags and tags helps get the word out. The brands themselves are on Pinterest and Instagram, too, so customers can get a great insight into what the brands stand for. Selling via Pinterest or Instagram could be an option in the future. Instagram just keeps on growing; large and small businesses are using it more – which could lead to it being a successful selling tool.

Is customer interaction important to you?

Very. We like to ask customers questions about the brands we stock, and welcome any suggestions they may have.

Do you source brands via social media?

Yes, Instagram is one account where we look out for new brands. A large percentage of independent businesses are on it – which is great, as you don’t always get to see the most independent labels at the trade shows.

Which social-media accounts do you operate on under your business name?

I use Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest. I use them to source brands for my shop – they are a great way to find talent and collaborate with people.

How often do you update your accounts?

Is it the same for all of the sites?

I post on Instagram daily and share it on Twitter and Facebook. Pinterest is more for inspiration, as and when I have time.

Being visual platforms, how do you use Pinterest and Instagram for business?

I pin and post images of things that inspire me, such as as interesting new places, people and objects I see. I also use them to let customers know about new items I have found for the shop and new designers, brands and projects I am working with, or on. They are also good for inspiration in-terms of visual merchandising, website design, fashion trends and so on. I have met lots of great people, experienced talented designing and like-minded business through Instagram; it is an inspiring and supportive community.

Do you sell from Pinterest or Instagram?

I’m not sure how much I sell as a result of Pinterest, but I certainly make sales from Instagram. Lots of customers shop via my Instagram account – it is the best way for me to regularly update people on the new things I have found. As a consumer, I use both platforms to shop, so I find inspiration both personally and for my business.

How important is it for you to interact with your customers, and do you use a specific “voice” to reflect your business tone?

I chat to customers daily through Instagram and Facebook, and many of them have gone on to become friends. I don’t think I have a tone of voice for my business – I just try to be myself.

Have you sought any tutorials on how to get the most out of social media for business?

Not yet, but we will be looking into this. We’ve seen some great tutorials.

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ECOMMERCE FOR SMES Ian Jindal, editor-in-chief and founder of e-commerce trade magazine Internet Retailing, is also a consultant, keynote speaker and board-level advisor to major retail and consumer businesses including House of Fraser, Marks & Spencer and John Lewis. Here, he applies his expertise to SMEs, and advises how smaller businesses can make the most of ecommerce.

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Experts predict that around 85.4 per cent of the UK population shops online and 69 per cent of consumers use credit cards as their primary method of payment. Clearly, the online retail market in the UK is on the rise.

The reason? It is a great time to be a shopper, and it’s getting better all the time.

Never before has it been so easy to find and buy the retail products consumers want to have. Thanks to the growth of digital, and in particular mcommerce, consumers can check and compare product details and prices in a few clicks, wherever they are. And, when they have found the item they want, it is just a few keystrokes more to buy and arrange convenient delivery.

Nowadays, customers have high expectations. They want to shop in-store, but they also want the option of looking online – whether that be on their laptop, desktop, mobile or tablet. As a result, retailers are re-evaluating the way they do business. In this new world of omnichannel commerce, the rulebook of how to run a retail business is cast aside, and merchants must adapt to survive.

This sometimes portrays a challenge to large retailers who are changing and adjusting their business model to this new more complex era. But if the big players are struggling, what about the small and medium businesses?

With the high street continuing to evolve, retailers of all sizes need to keep up with

modern shopping habits to ensure business growth, drive revenue and keep customers coming back – whether in-store or online.

Businesses of all sizes find themselves needing to create an “always on” omnichannel presence or mobile app to attract new and repeat customers.

Many small businesses in particular find this to be challenging. Nonetheless, this challenge should be tackled as an opportunity for them to level the playing field, because the demand is growing, and those who take the lead will win a competitive advantage.

SMEs are more aware of the need but, if we analyse their adoption rate in recent years, there is still too great a rate of missed sales due, primarily, to poor implementation and observation of their customers’ habits.

A study performed in 2013, found out that British SMEs were moving online in order to be more competitive. The amount of enterprises that created an ecommerce site increased by 19 per cent in the first three months of that year.

In 2014, MasterCard’s MerchantScope study found that while 90 per cent of small companies around the world have an online presence of some sort (though not necessarily a website), only one in five offered ecommerce capabilities. In other words, only 20 per cent of small and mid-sized firms let customers buy their products and services online.

The same study says that small businesses are avoiding implementing ecommerce for two main reasons – cost (46 per cent) and lack of know-how (31 per cent). Now that the underpinning technology that powers ecommerce is mature, scalable and cheap, it is also easier to understand and to implement.

As a result, more and more businesses should seize the opportunity of becoming digital. The scale of change can be breathtaking, and the learning curve steep, but necessary. With this in mind, here are a few simple steps towards success: SIMPLY BE ONLINE An ecommerce website can be relatively cheap and is an effective way to reach a wider audience. Although there may be a lack of technical expertise and understanding, there are off-the-shelf solutions to purchase that can do it for you.

PREPARE TO GO MOBILE Today, customers see mobile as the remote control for the brands they trust. They expect to use their smartphones and tablet computers to manage information.

By 2016, 61 per cent of web traffic will be driven by mobile, so make sure you and your website is ready for your mobile customers.

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beginning will make the investment less costly, but much more effective when seizing this growing audience.

Also, provide a clear purchase path via smartphone and tablet, and test them thoroughly.

ENHANCE THE ONLINE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AND JOURNEY It is important to focus on the customer and understand what your customer base wants.

Whether creating a website, mobile or tablet app, customers want to be able to recognise your brand, easily search for products and buy them without a hitch.

DEVELOP YOUR OPERATIONS AND LOGISTICS SYSTEMS When orders start to take off, it is important that solid logistics underpin your operations.

Getting delivery right means traders win more sales, while those who don’t, miss out.

Returns or cancellation policies should be built efficiently while ensuring customer satisfaction and providing return on investment.

DEVELOP AND STRENGTHEN YOUR DIGITAL SALES AND MARKETING PLAN Building a successful multichannel sales and marketing strategy is the key to ecommerce sales growth and success. Make sure your

messages are consistent across all channels, tailored to specific audiences, and remember to measure, test and learn.

BE APPROACHABLE THROUGH SOCIAL MEDIA Social media can be key to digital strategy.

Not only is it a powerful engagement tool, social media also allows brands to have conversations with their customers. Use it effectively to make yourself available and to respond to customers, however they get in touch.

KNOW YOUR CUSTOMERS Personalisation is an established trend in ecommerce, and for a reason.

Successful personalisation means filtering your products or services to display items related to your customers’ previous purchases, buying habits or preferences. Provide your customer with relevant, personalised information which engages them and keeps them coming back.

TRANSFORM BUYERS INTO REGULARS Keep an eye on your customers’ satisfaction and perceived value of the experience they have when shopping from you.

Work on a number of ways to add value to your goods or services, and think of benefits to offer in exchange of their loyalty.

GIVE THEM A REASON TO COME IN-STORE When speaking to customers, online and on social media, give them a reason to come into the shop. Whether this is a percentage discount or complimentary treat, it will drive footfall.

Even if it may sound challenging, what is required can be both simple and transforming. We are now well set up to adapt and change quickly and cost efficiently for future requirements. The high street and retail sector will continue to evolve, and businesses need to keep up with customer’s habits. People are going to be shopping faster and smarter, but the opportunities for SMEs are huge. For those willing to go digital, adapt, offer an integral and outstanding customer experience and fully integrate, there is a bright multichannel future ahead in ecommerce.

Information: Jindal will be sharing his expertise and insights alongside a host of the top names in retail at the inaugural eDelivery Conference and the 10th annual InternetRetailing Conference in London on 13-14 October 2015.

Board-level speakers from Boohoo.com, New Look and Google UK will be revealing their thoughts on how to connect commercially with the consistently connected customer. Find out more at www.edeliveryconference.com and www.internetretailingconference.com.

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INCREASING CONVERSIONS WITH VIDEO MARKETING Marc Schillaci, CEO and founder of Actinic, which is part of e-commerce provider Oxatis Group, looks at the importance of video marketing, its impact on businesses and how video content not only brings product alive and reduce returns, but it can also help SMEs improve their Google rankings.

— Seventy three per cent of consumers are more likely to buy a product after watching a video, according to a survey by ReelSEO. Video marketing has almost become synonymous with YouTube, but not all businesses have caught on to the popularity of video yet.

Here are a few stats from YouTube that will, no doubt, pique some interest – six billion hours watched each month, 100 hours of video uploaded every minute and one billion unique visits each month. Video marketing for ecommerce is a means of showcasing products and your business while gaining visibility and using new marketing channels.

Why use video marketing for your business?

However detailed your description, and no matter the number of images you provide, stepping outside the restraints of 2D and giving potential clients a product video will definitely give them a better understanding of the product they’re buying. Ninety six per cent of those surveyed by ReelSEO found it easier to make an online buying decision if they’d watched a video. Video brings a product to life, providing buyers with more information than photos can, taking them less time and effort to research a product, keeping the buying funnel fast and fluid. Video not only gives eshopppers a better insight into a product, but it also reduces the number of returns. Half of those surveyed by ReelSEO said they would be less likely to return products if they could watch demonstration videos.

Video marketing also acts as a trust element, instilling faith in your company, with 58 per cent of respondents considering brands that produce video content to be more trustworthy and 77 per cent seeing companies that create online videos as more engaged with customers (ReelSEO).

While improving user experience, video marketing will also help you climb the Google rankings, giving you greater visibility, as Google prioritises video content. According to Econsultancy, there are several elements to consider when preparing videos for SEO, optimising meta data (video title and description tags), for example. Make sure viewers can comment on videos and share them, as the more videos are shared on social media the more Google will prioritise them and your site will receive more traffic. The more views a video has, the higher it will be

positioned in search engines, so don’t hesitate to share it across marketing channels.

In short, videos promote a better user experience and encourage buys. They assist in reducing the number of returns and give your company a more professional and trustworthy image, therefore creating stronger customer relations. Retails sites that use videos to present their products enjoy multiple benefits, an increase in the time visitors spend on site, bigger average basket sizes and higher conversion rates.

What should you consider when launching a video marketing campaign?

The obvious aim for video marketing is to show off your business and its products in the best light possible. The most popular videos are full of information, descriptive and demonstrative, 360-degree views of the products, close ups and action shots. Bear in mind that making videos can be expensive, so ask yourself the following questions – which of my products are particularly technical? Are there new-to-market products that merit extra explication? Which products have a long life cycle and will give you the chance to recoup the cost of making a video?

Product videos should be short – two or three minutes is a surprisingly long time when it comes to keeping consumers attention.

You’ll also be saving yourself money, as video creation can be costly. Eighty three per cent of internet users confirmed that the ideal video length for them would be under five minutes (according to video maker Animoto).

To cut down on time, you can use bullet points or captions in your video rather than a constant voiceover – this will also give you the opportunity to add clickable links to provide more info or take viewers to a landing page.

Ecommerce provides a multitude of video marketing options and a number of video genres that suit ecommerce needs. Product videos can categorised into three main types of video – product presentation, product demonstration and “behind-the-scenes” videos. Product presentation videos give the opportunity to provide an array of information on a product, demo videos can be created in the form of product use tutorials or step-by-step guides and behind-the-scenes videos delve more into the origin or manufacture of products.

Video marketing can also be used to showcase testimonials for your products or business, considering that 85 per cent of consumers look for online reviews to gain insight into a company before buying (BrightLocal), a collection of video testimonials can be a great way of reassuring consumers.

Once the videos have been made the next step is deciding where to publish them, which brings us back to YouTube. By creating your own channel you can showcase all your videos whatever type; tutorial, testimonial, etc. You can also use YouTubers (YouTube personalities) that already have a following in your target market, to spread the word about your products and videos. Providing YouTubers with a free sample can get the ball rolling and you can benefit from reviews or video sharing (some may want financial compensation so make sure you agree on terms).

The benefits of YouTube for SMBs YouTube is the second most visited platform in the world. You can opt for YouTube to launch your business and also to render your business more profitable. Take advantage of its 500 million active users. Here are the pros of YouTube in a few short phrases: • A great way to popularise your product.

• A product feedback tool: receive comments and opinions from viewers.

• An easy-to-use platform for sharing content.

• A great tool for increasing visibility without investing large sums – if you don’t have a big budget for creating videos you can still use your YouTube channel to share other videos related to your sector.

• Access to accurate statistics through YouTube Insight.

• The possibility of creating a YouTube Ads campaign. You can then target the most appropriate internet users for your business, with a pre-agreed budget. Another great way of bringing traffic to your site.

Outside of YouTube, videos fit nicely onto product pages, adding to the descriptions and photos already provided. They can be sent out in newsletters and of course, shared on every social platform your business uses. Finally, don’t forget to make your videos mobile friendly, as 94 per cent of desktop users and 76 per cent of smartphone users watch a video at least once a week (Animoto).

OCTOBER 2015 - 14

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RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques as well as news and store events from the world of childrenswear retail.

NATURAL BABY SHOWER 55 Guildford Road, Bagshot, Surrey In June, online retailer of ethical and eco-friendly baby products Naturalbabyshower.co.uk opened a bricks-and-mortar store in Surrey Heath.

The new flagship, located on Guildford Road in Bagshot, covers two floors offering everything from clothing and nursery furniture to toys and buggies. The ground floor is home to essentials such as nappies, slings and changing bags, as well as a wide selection of organic clothing from brands such as aden + anais, Pacapod, Storksak, Cuddledry and Frugi. Upstairs features nursery showrooms, which include cots, changing tables, Moses baskets and play gyms.

“We had been trading online for over eight years, so knew there was a demand for a store of this nature,” says owner Victoria Hampson.

“Bagshot was the perfect place to open our first major store. It’s accessible, there’s a strong community feel, and a fantastic place for families to bring up their children. It is great to have a space where we can meet parents face-to-face and where they can see all our gorgeous brands in one place.”

Hampson and her team of staff have a wealth of experience and can provide new and expectant parents with advice on any purchases. A private consultation room is available for customers requiring more in-depth information, where they can sit down with a personal shopper, discuss their needs, and receive demonstrations on how to use products.

“The store design was really important to us,” continues Hampson. “We wanted to create somewhere light and airy where mums could shop at their leisure without feeling under pressure. We also wanted to create a place where they feel comfortable asking questions and trying out items such as cloth nappies and carriers. Our knowledgeable team is always on hand to offer advice. There’s even a toddler-friendly corner with wooden toys and a sofa for dads where they can sit and read a magazine, all aiding an enjoyable, stress-free shopping experience.” www.naturalbabyshower.co.uk OCTOBER 2015 - 16

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LITTLE NELLY 19B Well Lane, Falmouth, Cornwall Katy Lazenby opened Little Nelly in December 2014, offering ecologically sourced childrenswear, toys and gifts for under-fives, which she displays in a bright and spacious retail space. Lazenby’s criteria for the brands she stocks include sharing her respect for the environment, for Fairtrade and a focus on great design. All of the clothing is 100 per cent organic from brands such as Little Green Radicals, Boys&Girls and Kite, while the selection of soft and wooden toys from names such as Best Years, Janod and Londji have been chosen to encourage imaginative play.

Lazenby has hosted various pop-up events such as a baby photographer and an eco-craft workshop, with plans for a maternitywear pop-up and Santa’s grotto at Christmas. www.littlenelly.co.uk

PIKKU 173-175 High Street, Gosforth, Newcastle upon Tyne Derived from Finnish origins, Pikku translates as “Little One” – a name chosen by the store’s owner Minna Scaife, who is originally from Finland. Mum of two Scaife opened Pikku in October 2014 before taking business manager Samantha Stearman on board, a fashion design and marketing degree graduate.

Pikku stocks clothing accessories and soft toys for 0-5 years, as well as a selection of handmade christeningwear. Upstairs it has its own children’s hair salon and pamper party zone equipped with novelty car chairs, Nintendos and tablets. www.pikku.co.uk / www.pikku-online.co.uk

News:

NICKI MACFARLANE OPENS DEBUT STORE Nicki Macfarlane, British designer of children’s occasionwear, is marking the 10th anniversary of her eponymous label by opening her first store in time for Christmas. Located on Langton Street in Chelsea, the sophisticated boutique is designed to provide a one-stop shop for children’s special occasionwear and will focus on British brands including Angel’s Face and Little Linens. The shop offers flower girl, page boy, party and occasionwear outfits, as well as accessories.

LITTLE GOLDIE Little Goldie was launched in spring

by London-based mum-of-two Sonali Hindmarch. Hindmarch’s concept for the business was ignited by her discovery of innovative independent brands when decorating her baby’s bedroom. She has created a children’s design store aimed at design-conscious parents packed with timeless, handmade toys and décor, as well as more heirloom-worthy pieces.

Little Goldie specialises in “hard to find pieces” that are high-quality, often eco-friendly and made to last. www.littlegoldie.com

DEVELOPMENTS FOR PETERBOROUGH MALL This autumn, leading shopping destination Queensgate in Peterborough sees five new signings and upsizes totalling almost 11,000 sq ft. Family lifestyle brand FatFace (pictured) is one of the upsizes and, following strong performance from its existing Queensgate store, has advanced to a 3,000 sq ft shop. Since Invesco Real Estate bought Queensgate, and Lendlease took over the asset management 17 months ago, 13 brands totalling almost 30,000 sq ft have taken space in the shopping centre.

Retail news in brief: JOHN LEWIS PLACEMENT SCHEMES

M&S AUTUMN 2015 CAMPAIGN

Candidates have until 31 October to apply for one of John Lewis Partnership’s five industrial placement schemes for 2016/17.

Available for students taking a year out from university to gain workplace experience, the schemes cover a variety of areas at John Lewis, Waitrose and Partnership Services including retail management in branches, agriculture, e-commerce, IT, supply chain, commercial, procurement, insight and marketing.

The Art Of is the title of M&S’ new autumn 2015 campaign running across TV, print and digital platforms. Placing a spotlight on “the unique quality and style of M&S products”, the initiative uses a cutting edge format to celebrate the craftsmanship and fashion credentials across the retailer’s women’s, men’s, kids’ and home ranges. Launched in the UK last month, elements of the campaign are also being used across 50 international markets.

CHRISTMAS COMES EARLY TO SELFRIDGES Selfridges was the first department store in the world to launch its Christmas Shop this year. The retailer unveiled its Christmas Shop in August, on the fourth floor of its flagship store in London. The Arctic makeover features thousands of Christmas decorations on display, with the 2015 concept being Journey to the Star. Delivering its most unconventional Christmas scheme to date, the retailer has taken its creative cue from the timeless and symbolic Christmas star.

OCTOBER 2015 - 17

EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

02 01

BRANDS To Watch CWB editor Laura Turner selects the must-have collections to get in-store.

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01: FINN + EMMA

02: WELL GROUNDED COMPANY

US children’s label Finn + Emma recently appointed Natural Baby Shower as its UK distributor, and is set to launch a wholesale website this month. Combining stylish with sustainable, classic with contemporary and whimsical with sophisticated, the brand shuns lacklustre designs and toxic chemicals in place of modern colours, fresh prints and eco-friendly dyes. Catering for 0-4 years, the collection of organic apparel, accessories and toys includes pyjamas, body suits, pants, blankets, bibs, hats, strollers and rattles, all manufactured in Fairtrade settings. Wholesale prices range from £4.50 to £45. www.naturalbabyshower.co.uk

Established earlier this year, Well Grounded Company is a new London childrenswear label for 2-12 years. The brand offers a printed woven range made in England and a jersey line made in Portugal. Highlights include unisex jersey separates and printed woven dresses, skirts and blouses featuring the label’s own commissioned patterns. The ethos behind Well Grounded Company portrays the two sides children have, with the woven separates reflecting the more studious side and the jersey line mirroring the more mischievous side. All pieces within the collection can be mixed and matched.

Wholesale prices range from £8 to £30. www.wellgroundedco.com OCTOBER 2015 - 18

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03

04

05

03: BANDITS GIRL

04: GUDRUN & GUDRUN KIDS

05: PEACHEYBOO

Bandits Girl is a new children’s faux fur coat and cape label created by London-based Brazilian designer Ana Konder. Konder, who is widely known for her innovative fur accessory creations and designs for Chanel, introduced Bandits Girl following the successful launch of Bandits – her women’s coat and cape range. With a focus on heart-design references, the girls’ line comprises five pieces: a hooded faux fur trim cape; two-tone faux fur coat; and hooded faux fur bomber jacket. Hats and muffs are available to complete the look. Everything in the collection is designed and produced in the UK. Wholesale prices range from £15 to £85. www.brand-stable.com

Launched in 2002, nordic organic fashion company Gudrun & Gudrun is based in the Faroe Islands, which are around halfway between Norway and Iceland. Carrying the same eco-credentials and social responsibility as the main line, the kids’ range features classic and timeless designs. Available for six months to 12 years, highlights include sweaters, lamb skin mittens and pom-pom beanies. Coats, cardigans, dresses, vests, leggings, trousers, baby wraps, balaclavas and socks are also available. With the exception of the lambskin collection, wholesale prices range from ¤11 to ¤64. www.gudrungudrun.com

British baby and toddler label Peacheyboo for 0-3 years was established in October last year and launched online six months ago. Inspired by childhood memories, such as “baking with Nana”, the collection’s signature designs include sugar mice, macaroons and raspberry tarts. The brand’s Sweet Toothy Pegs range comprises 36 pieces including babygros, leggings, T-shirts, bibs, scratch mittens and dribble cloths. Meanwhile, Peacheyboo’s Vintage Toys collection is set to launch this month, offering nine pieces, which will be built upon over the coming months. Wholesale prices range from £2 to £11.60. www.peacheyboo.com OCTOBER 2015 - 19

Following the fantastic reaction to our new Alex first walker _ we have added two more great styles, Alice and Edward.

Alice a classical Mary Jane design for girls and Edward an Oxford style lace up for boys. Both styles share all the attributes of Alex with full leather uppers and linings including an arch support_and lightweight flexible rubber walking soles.

Available in a wide range of colours from sizes 19-23, orders being taken now for Autumn delivery. _ More new styles will be joining the range shortly and _ a brand new catalogue will follow in the Autumn.

Footwear Manufacturers since 1952.

Early Days Baby Shoes for all Occasions Early Days, 15b Mandervell Rd, Oadby, Leicester, LE2 5LQ Tel: 01162 716944 Email: sales@earlydays.ltd.uk www.earlydays.ltd.uk _

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PESTER CONTROL New research from market intelligence agency Mintel has revealed 40 per cent of parents are closer to their children than their parents were to them. One of the repercussions of this social change is “pester power” – the ability of children to pressurise their parents into buying them products, including clothing. So why are mums and dads increasingly struggling with saying “no” to their children’s shopping demands? CWB investigates.

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Most children ask their mum and dad to buy them something when they shop together and most parents oblige, despite the fact that they tend to view themselves as being fairly strict.

A new Mintel report – Children’s and Teens as Influencers UK 2015 – has confirmed that the strong bond between UK parents and their children is strengthening the impact of pester power.

Today, over half of UK children aged 7-15 years say their parents are their best friends, while two in five parents say they are closer to their children than their parents were to them, rising to 47 per cent of parents over the age of 45. And, with just a third of children claiming their parents are very strict, it seems that the strong relationships parents have with their children is causing them to frequently give in to their offspring’s shopping list of demands.

Despite the fact that just 16 per cent of parents find it difficult to say “no” to their children when asked to buy them something, of those that shop with their children, 79 per cent have purchased a snack for their child when asked. A further 77 per cent purchased a beauty or toiletry product, 69 per cent purchased sweets, and the same proportion (69 per cent) a book.

“Most children ask their mum and dad to buy them something when they shop together and most parents oblige, despite the fact that they tend to view themselves as being fairly strict,” says Ina Mitskavets, senior consumer and lifestyles analyst at Mintel. “Modern families are an inclusive environment in which many items are shared. Parents, therefore, ask for children’s preferences and often encourage and empower them to be more independent.

“With lines between childhood and adulthood continuing to blur, mums and dads could be found watching the same TV shows, listening to the same music, and even wearing the same brands of clothing as their kids,” she continues. “It is, therefore, easy to see how today’s children’s influence and preferences could infiltrate the rest of the family.”

Indeed, over a period of a month, Mintel found 89 per cent of parents were asked by their children to buy them something when they went shopping together. Of the remaining 11 per cent, just four per cent were not asked to buy anything for their child and seven per cent

did not go shopping with their child during this period. Topping the list of children’s demands were snacks, with 56 per cent of parents saying their child asked for a snack, while 55 per cent asked for sweets and 38 per cent asked for an item of clothing.

And it seems there are preferences of what to ask for from each parent. In the same four week period, 37 per cent of dads were asked by their child to buy them a video game, compared to 26 per cent of mums. Meanwhile, 42 per cent of mums were asked by their child to buy an item of clothing, compared to 32 per cent of dads.

What is more, Mintel’s research shows that when parents buy items for their children, the child’s opinion matters. Out of all items, parents are most likely to ask for the opinion of their child when buying clothing or shoes for them, with 47 per cent doing so most of the time. In addition, one in 10 parents say they typically ask for their children’s opinions on clothing and shoes when they buy it for themselves, too.

Further evidence of the strong bond between today’s parents and their offspring is the fact that when it comes to children and teens choosing new items to buy, it seems parents know best. Over half of Brits aged 7-15 years would ask their parents when choosing a new electronic gadget, compared to just a third who would ask their friends. Additionally, 42 per cent would ask their parents when choosing a treat or snack, compared to 22 per cent who would ask their friends.

However, when it comes to fun, the opinions of friends are the most valued: 41 per cent ask for their friends’ thoughts when choosing a new toy or game, compared to the 26 per cent who ask their parents.

What was also apparent from Mintel’s findings is that the power of advertising is very evident. Three quarters of children and teens aged 10-15 years remembered seeing or hearing advertising in the week prior to being questioned. By a large majority, the top place children and teens remember seeing advertising is on TV (67 per cent), while

29 per cent remember seeing it on the internet and 26 per cent on a social network.

“This generation of children has grown up with multiple screens and their entire childhood has been marked by easy and fast access to apps, information, ideas as well as adverts and new products,” says Mitskavets.

“Today’s kids, as no other generation before them, demand constant transformation to hold their attention. However, the strong desire to try out new things could prove to be a double-edged sword; children would be more prone to impulse buying and less likely to make educated purchasing decisions in their quest for novelty or the ‘wow’ factor that would impress their friends.”

A final, but key finding in Mintel’s research highlighted the fact that parents with only one child spend more freely than those who have more. A quarter of parents with one child said they usually only buy presents for their child on special occasions, compared to 33 per cent of parents with three children. Moreover, 29 per cent of parents with one child say they try to wait until the sales to buy things their child wants, compared to 39 per cent of those with three children.

“Mintel data shows that kids’ and teens’ influences in British families stretches much further,” says Mitskavets. “Children’s opinions now have a bearing on decisions regarding many purchases, not just for themselves, but for the whole family.

“This greater degree of inclusivity in modern British families is marked by the high proportion of children who view themselves as being very close to their mum and dad,” she continues. “Such closeness, however, also manifests itself as a greater degree of influence children and teens have over their families’ purchases and activities.”

— Mintel’s full Children’s and Teens as Influencers UK 2015 report is available to purchase.

For more information visit www.mintel.com.

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PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

TROTTERS:

25 YEARS

Last month, independent childrenswear chain Trotters hosted an elaborate party for loyal customers and their families to mark 25 years in business. In the midst of the celebrations, CWB speaks to Trotters’ founder, Sophie Mirman. Venturing on a trip down memory lane, we discover more about Mirman’s long-standing career in retail, as well as the key events that have helped mould both her and Trotters into the successes they are today.

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Laura Turner: How did your career in retail begin?

Sophie Mirman: I started out at Marks & Spencer, where I worked in the typing pool. I became PA to Lord Sieff, Marks & Spencer’s then chairman, and it was he who encouraged and guided me towards the retail management side of the business – which is where I really began to develop my love of retail. I didn’t go to university and consider my time at Marks & Spencer as my “period of learning” – my university, if you like. I credit my time there for instilling work ethic and discipline in me.

LT: Prior to Trotters, you were also involved in establishing Tie Rack and founding high-street chain Sock Shop.

SM: Yes, I left Marks & Spencer when I was recruited by Tie Rack to set up its operation in 1981. I was young for such a role, but it was a fantastic opportunity. I stayed at Tie Rack for a year and a half and in that time opened 15 of its stores. It was also at Tie Rack, where I met my husband, Richard Ross.

On leaving there, Richard and I went on to launch our own business – Sock Shop – in 1983. We opened the first Sock Shop on the concourse of the Knightsbridge tube

station and, by 1987, there were 52 stores in the chain. Soon after, the recession hit, and over-expansion saw Sock Shop go into administration.

LT: The demise of Sock Shop didn’t waver your love of retail, then?

SM: It would have been all too easy to give up and go into hiding – Sock Shop was a high-profile administration. That period taught us a very important lesson though; it imparted a vital sense of caution within us – which has remained ever since. Despite being in financial pieces, I received the Motivator of the Year Award around that time – a tribute to determination and resilience – and that was a real boost. I received letters of support from people I had never even met.

LT: Trotters was your next business venture after Sock Shop. Why did you opt to move into childrenswear?

SM: The idea for Trotters was triggered by the rather negative encounters I had experienced personally when taking my children shopping for their shoes and also on their trips to the hairdressers. The children didn’t enjoy either event. The environments in both cases didn’t

seem designed with children in mind, they were too corporate and unfriendly, and there was a real sense that children “shouldn’t touch anything”. My aim for Trotters was to counteract this – I wanted to create a relaxed, child-friendly environment where everything could be found under one roof, including a children’s hairdressers.

We opened the first Trotters’ shop in 1990 on King’s Road in Chelsea. We started out selling childrenswear for 0-8 years, stocking brands that were available on the general high street. Over the years we have been fortunate enough to build enough stores to be able to develop our own private childrenswear labels.

The exclusivity these labels provide has meant we are not in direct competition with anyone.

I would say they are the main evolution of Trotters, and no doubt a large reason why the business has survived and maintained market share over the years. Own-brand childrenswear labels allow us complete exclusivity in everything we stock.

LT: What does Trotters’ private-label portfolio comprise?

SM: We offer clothing for 0-10 years, all of which is exclusive to Trotters. For girls, the

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PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

offer includes Lily Rose, a premium label; Confiture, which specialises in French-inspired classics and Lily Rose, which offers timeless, hand-crafted garments featuring exclusive Liberty prints. Chelsea Clothing Company offers everydaywear for both boys and girls; Thomas Brown is a heritage brand for boys; and Petit Breton features hard-wearing, nautically themed garments such as rain macs. We also do Crocodile Swimwear for boys, Calypso Swimwear for girls, Original Pyjama Company for sleepwear, and various hair accessories.

In footwear, we offer our own Hampton Classics Leather range of Italian leather school shoes and the Hampton Classics Canvas range, which offers a wide selection of durable cotton summer footwear. Alongside these, we stock independent footwear brands such as Bloch, Bobux, Converse, Crocs, Early Days, Geox, Hunter, Pediped, Skechers, Sun Sandal and Vans. We also stock toys and gifts – everything from newborn and preschool items through to bath toys, arts and crafts, games, books and puzzles. New ranges are introduced to the stores all the time.

LT: Where are Trotters’ stores located?

SM: We’ve expanded to six stores in and around London, as well as launching an online shop. The first Trotters’ store opened on King’s Road in Chelsea, and this was followed by shops in Kensington, Clapham, Turnham Green and outside London in Guildford. The most recent opening was in October 2012 in Westfield London. In total, we have around 110 members of staff. The overall look of the stores is very clean in design but, most importantly, they are fun for the children. It takes a lot of work to create such an atmosphere – it doesn’t just happen.

LT: And each of the stores includes a hairdressers?

SM: Yes, each of the shops has a child-friendly hairdressing department. They all have giant fish tanks to help the children relax and keep them entertained while they have their hair cut.

LT: When did you introduce the website, and what has it brought to the business?

SM: We launched the new website five years ago and it has taken a lot of work. I understand bricks and mortar, and it’s what I’m experienced in, so I have to admit we were dragged kicking and screaming to go online and launch ecommerce. The website has, of course, been a fantastic addition to Trotters, opening the business up globally. We literally ship to customers all over the world now.

We also use Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and social media is something we are working on doing more of.

LT: Are there plans to open any more shops?

SM: It is something we always consider.

Trotters is very much a family business, and I feel Richard and I have done our bit getting the company this far. Now our children are getting more involved, they are essentially the next generation of Trotters and the ones who will be making many of the decisions for its future and how it develops.

LT: How has Trotters’ changed as a business since you opened your first shop in 1990?

SM: The business is always evolving, but it has become much tighter and more focused over the years. We’ve learnt that we can’t be all things to all people and we never rest on our laurels – there are always improvements that can be made. We must always hone our offer and improve quality – it’s a work in progress.

LT: How did you mark Trotters’ 25th anniversary?

SM: As a thank you to all our loyal customers, we threw a big party last month for children and their families at the Duke of York Square in London. Activities on the day included a petting zoo and pony rides, a Victorian carousel, cookery classes, live music and children’s performances, a baking and biscuit decorating competition, entertainers, face painting and traditional fête stalls.

We had story-telling from Harper Collins and book signings by some of Trotters’ favourite children’s authors. There was an arts and crafts area as well, and a quiet corner for mums in need of some pampering by the team at Liz Earle. My husband Richard also made his appearance as the Trotters’ mascot, Dunwoody. The Dunwoody character is a pig wearing a yellow waistcoat, and Richard has a life-size Dunwoody costume that he wears to entertain the children, which they love. We donated all proceeds from the party to one of our chosen charities – Place2Be – which provides much needed school-based mental health support to children across the UK. LT: What are the long-term plans for Trotters?

SM: Our daughter Natasha is now Trotters’ finance director, and Victoria and William are pursuing their own careers at the moment – earning their stripes elsewhere – but they will come into the business, too, at some stage, when they are ready and have gained more experience. There’s no pressure on when they do. Essentially, we are a strong, family business. We all work well together and the long-term plans for Trotters are now in the hands of the next generation of the family.

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PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE CWB’s selection of Christmas gift ideas for kids, available to get in-store now.

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MOCCIS Hand-sewn Swedish moccasins. Baby £11.50, Junior £12.50 0033 35777500 www.moccis.co.uk

PIPKITS Friendship charm bracelet kit – hearts edition. £5.41 01484 485100 www.burhousebeads.com/pipkits

INKY & MOLE Silver glitter bow hair clip. £2 01935 826 071 www.inkyandmole.co.uk

OSKAR & ELLEN Soft toy sushi set. £11.80 020 7000 1988 www.oskarellen.com

LAPIN & ME Advent calendar. £3.50 07852 328492 www.lapinandme.co.uk

LAZY LIZARDS Luna the Lion toy. £6.25 07702 181524 www.lazylizards.co.uk

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PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

POWELL CRAFT Vintage plane wheeled trolley. £10 01273 622023 www.powellcraft.co.uk

BELLE & BOO Mounted Christmas print. From £8.33 0117 924 6382 www.belleandboo.com

ENCHANTED FOREST AND FRIENDS Forest Friend back pack. From £10.50 01475 745794 www.enchantedforestandfriends.com

BRAVELING Bobble beanie in merino with a hand-crocheted bobble. £19 07786 071667 www.braveling.co.uk

AN ELF FOR CHRISTMAS TOY & KIT Includes a Letter to Santa template, Christmas reward chart and sheet of Elf stickers. Price on request 0191 303 8668 www.elfforchristmas.co.uk

D FOR DIAMOND Silver snowflake pendant with powder blue enamel. £20 01376 532000 www.geckojewellery.com

BKD Kids’ baking kit – Christmas biscuits. £9.99 07791 097481 www.bkd-london.com

POCO NIDO Bonnet. £7 0114 243 5886 www.poconido.com

HAZEL VILLAGE Organic soft toy animal available with separate dress-up outfits. $20 0161 900 2409 www.charvinjames.co.uk

OCTOBER 2015 - 27

PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

Style GUIDE:

HATLEY £11 02392 313897 —

DREAMY SLEEPWEAR: CWB’s pick of fun and stylish children’s pyjamas.

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

PIXIE DIXIE £16 020 7631 2084 —

SENSE ORGANICS £9.50 020 7253 9896 —

TOBY TIGER £14.50 01903 766777 —

MINI VANILLA £10.95 01306 877665 — OCTOBER 2015 - 28

PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

LAURA

LOVES

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01: NOODOLL Plush toys and cushions 020 7253 1890 From £4.60 for mini plush toys to £20 for giant cushions www.noodoll.com 04: DIDDYWEAR Merino wool baby hat £7.50 07985 747660 www.diddywear.com

02: FINN + EMMA Teething ring – Penny the Pigeon £10.95 01276 408494 www.naturalbabyshower.co.uk

03: WILD & SOFT Henry Bear rug £36.25 0032 51804020 www.wildandsoft.com

05: ANNE-CLAIRE PETIT Airbourne kids’ chair ¤162.50 0031 (0)206792338 www.anneclairepetit.nl

06: LAPIN & ME Maison Lapin collection – round tin, square tin and mini case £1.90, £2.65 and £3.80 respectively 07852 328492 www.lapinandme.co.uk

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale OCTOBER 2015 - 29

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

WINTERBOTTOM’S

32: News

36: The Rowlinson school of thought Rowlinson’s recent move to becoming an employee owned company and its continued investment in its people.

38: Blue Max Banner: The next phase MD Nigel Plenderleith discusses Blue Max Banner’s recent management buyout.

43: The Schoolwear Show Preview of what will be on offer at this month’s edition.

56: Schoolwear heritage Interview with Matthew Easter, MD of Trutex.

OCTOBER 2015 - 31

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS: THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY THE TRUE VALUE OF SCHOOL UNIFORM

MARATHON INVESTS IN SERVICES As part of a continued strategy to enhance and improve its services, school bag specialist Marathon is making improvements to its printing facilities. The developments, which are taking place this winter, are designed to make the company’s artwork and print department even more efficient.

The advancements will enable Marathon’s design team to create and print multi-coloured and highly detailed heat transfers in-house, reducing turnaround times and allowing for a more complete service. New promotional products and services are also in the pipeline.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

The Schoolwear Association (SA) has commissioned new research that challenges criticism of school uniform and proves its value to government, local authorities, schools and parents. The study, completed by Oxford Brookes University on behalf of the Association, shows school uniform costs, on average, just 45p per school day.

The organisation is using the findings to fight back against criticism that uniform is “too expensive”, marking the latest stage in the SA’s quest to win the support of head teachers and parents by demonstrating that quality, school-specific uniform is good value for money in the long run.

Through a communications and public affairs programme, the SA is working to convince the government, local authorities, parents, teachers and governors to recognise the added value of badged and school-specific uniforms, such as improved student behaviour and a sense of pride; to support local retailers, manufacturers and other independents involved in the sector; and to be prepared to pay a premium for quality compared with very low-cost generic goods.

The new research reveals the average secondary school outfit comes in at £88.05, or 45p per school day. With PE kit, the total averages £127.32. Primary school uniform comes to £33.48, and with PE kit puts the figures up to £42.32. Conversely, a separate poll of 2,000 parents revealed they typically spend more on the outfits their children wear outside of school time, than they do on their school uniform. Almost half of the parents surveyed claimed to dress their children in high-street and designer fashions, with the average non-uniform outfit costing £113.

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Schools minister Nick Gibb has announced the government’s intention to give summer-born children the right to start in Reception at the age of five. The minister stated admissions rules “must be changed so children born between 1 April and 31 August cannot be forced to go straight into Year 1 if they wait to start school until they turn five.”

Gibb has written an open letter to encourage schools and local authorities to take immediate action in advance of the proposed changes.

PROLONGING THE LIFE OF SCHOOLWEAR Liquiproof is a solution that can be sprayed onto school uniform garments, footwear and school bags to help prevent damage and prolong the product’s lifespan.

The solution works by bonding SiO2 particles to the individual fibres of the fabric, creating permanent bonded layers that form an invisible barrier against water and oil. Once applied, the formula causes all forms of liquids to roll off the surface of the item, allowing even white shirts and suede shoes to remain permanently stain-free without affecting the look, feel or breathability of the fabric.

Liquiproof is also eco-friendly, non-toxic, non-flammable and odourless. The water-based formula is supplied in a safe, non-aerosol bottle, and the “protective layer” Liquiproof provides is compliant with all types of fabric, both synthetic and natural.

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This year’s Back to School period saw supermarket giant Tesco fail to meet 2,000 orders for school shirts and sweaters customised with embroidered schools crests. Tesco, which launched its school uniform embroidery service in 2010, blamed higher than usual order numbers for it not meeting the orders before the start of term.

A recent Which? report has investigated the best washing powders for school uniform. The review tested over 40 laundry detergents to reveal the best for preserving brightly coloured school jumpers, keeping white shirts bright and generally keeping school uniform and sports kit stain-free. Which? test results also found Best Buy washing powders, liquid capsules and laundry gels that cost half as much per wash as rival products.

OCTOBER 2015 - 32

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SA’S SUNDAY NIGHT FEVER

DAVID LUKE BOOSTS DIGITAL PRESENCE Leading schoolwear supplier David Luke has updated its trade and brand websites for 2016.

The trade website, davidluketrade.com, which has been evolving and improving over the last 12 months, includes a host of new and improved features based on customer feedback.

Key services include users being able to place an order online and receive priority despatch the following day. Live stock levels are viewable in units to assist in decision-making on orders.

Payments can be made to update the user’s account, and it is easier to manage outstanding orders by viewing the “back order summary screen” with due dates for stock. There is also a library of product images available to download for stockists’ own websites.

David Luke’s fully refreshed brand website, davidluke.com, also has a designated section for retailers. It includes information on David Luke’s services as well as details about Eco Schools England and how to find its registered schools, which are a keen target for David Luke due to its extensive Eco Uniform range.

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HELIX DEVELOPS OXFORD RANGE Helix’s long-standing Oxford range of stationery is expanding to aid the studies of new generations.

Since the company’s launch in 1987, more than 150 million Oxford maths sets have been sold. Now, new products are being added to include school handwriting pens, permanent pens in a range of colours, a metal-sleeved eraser, a compact tri-lighter and pencil cases bearing the well-known Oxford logo and designs.

The complete range, which will be available to view at this month’s Schoolwear Show, will provide everything a child needs stationery-wise for Back to School.

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This year’s Schoolwear Association fundraiser is a 70s-themed evening. Sunday Night Fever will take place following the first day of The Schoolwear Show on 11 October from 7.30pm until late.

Taking place at The Village Hotel, Solihull, it includes a three-course dinner, 70s music and “fundraising fun”. Fancy dress is optional.

For further information, tickets – which are priced at £50 – and raffle tickets, email mariebradburn@talktalk.net. Tickets will be available up until the day and can also be purchased from the Schoolwear Association at The Schoolwear Show.

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NATIONAL WEAVING EXPANDS TO MEET DEMAND As part of its ongoing expansion, National Weaving has grown its premises by 7,000 sq ft.

The company began works around 2012 by over cladding the old factory. Initially, the motive was to create more space to bring in extra woven label looms to meet demand for current woven products, but also to enable the company to offer its customers a broader range of labels.

When demand for National Weaving’s printed lines, of both labels and accessories, continued to exceed expectations, the company went on to a add a separate unit to its premise to meet storage needs.

“We converted the old storage area in the main building into our new print facility to allow enough room for this department to grow, while keeping it in the same building,” says National Weaving’s production manager, Jake Lloyd.

“Since 2012, our year-round staff levels have risen from 20 to 30 people, and we also took on 15 extra staff members during the busy Back to School season this year.

“While some companies have moved manufacturing overseas, we feel that by keeping it in-house we can compete much harder in the areas which matter most to our customers – quality of goods and reliable delivery,” continues Lloyd. “We operate year-round, which gives us another advantage as suppliers from Asia typically have factory shut-downs lasting up to three weeks at a time causing significant disruption to their customers, who often come to us for ‘just in time’ deliveries.”

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DEVELOPMENTS FOR WINTERBOTTOM’S The 2016 schoolwear offering from Winterbottom’s includes new changes to its product assortment together with a fresh new look for its brand and a new company livery, reflecting 40 years’ experience in schoolwear.

Winterbottom’s is now also part of Lowe Clothing International (LCI), a privately owned clothing group that designs, sources and manufactures high-quality garments for retailers in the UK and worldwide. Benefits of being part of the LCI family include Winterbottom’s now being supported by a global design, sourcing and wholesaling group, with access to a large network of product management and quality assurance teams around the world. It is also stepping up its bespoke service, which will enable it to provide further design input to help retailers looking to broaden their school portfolio.

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KWIKTAPES FOUNDER IN ASDA DEAL Birmingham firm Kwiktapes, which offers a complete label printing solution, has landed a lucrative contract to supply iron-on name tags for school uniforms and shoes to the supermarket chain Asda.

Kwiktapes’ founder, John Baines, hopes the deal “will help the business conquer the giant US market” due to Asda being owned by American conglomerate Walmart.

Previously a central heating engineer, Baines started Kwiktapes after creating a machine that makes name tags using technology inspired by mine excavation. Today, his company exports the technology around the world, and he has a client list of 3,000, including companies in Russia and South Africa. Kwiktapes also supplies BHS and M&S. —

SKIDS PROMOTES AFFILIATION SCHEME Back to School footwear specialist Skids is appealing to schoolwear retailers that currently supply direct to schools to create a complete “head to toe” uniform supplied with its footwear.

An added point of sale for retailers who adopt the footwear brand as part of their uniform supplies is the opportunity to encourage schools to join the Skids Affiliation Scheme, which aims to help schools across the UK by donating £2 to their school PTA for every pair sold to a pupil at the affiliated school.

Additionally, following Skids’ attendance at kids’ trade fair Bubble London in July, it is now working on a collaboration with a buyer from Singapore – who is specifically targeting British expats wanting an alternative to Clarks shoes, the brand currently dominating the Singaporean market.

— OCTOBER 2015 - 33

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE ROWLINSON SCHOOL OF THOUGHT Last month, on its 80th anniversary, Rowlinson became employee owned. This significant step is somewhat a natural progression for a firm that, above all else, values the well-being of its staff, customers and suppliers. But ethical investment, it seems, also makes good business sense.

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SOME OF THE ROWLINSON TEAM

While you can’t overlook the achievement involved in any company reaching a substantial milestone in today’s market, Rowlinson reaching 80 years in business is almost shadowed by the impressive means by which it has got there. Unlike other businesses that choose to plough investment into premises, technology and products, Rowlinson’s focus is on its people – its staff, customers and suppliers – and this is the driver for its success.

Investing in people The belief at Rowlinson is that if every single person in the company is happy in their employment and – where applicable, rewarded for dedicated work ethic – those individuals will give 100 per cent to the job. A positive workforce sees Rowlinson’s customers receive the very best service possible; when customers are happy; strong margins are maintained and subsequently, sales flourish and profits increase. This may sound idealistic, but the figures really do speak for themselves, with the company’s annual delivery-to-time tipping 99.8 per cent and employee satisfaction surveys ranking at an impressive 98 per cent.

Inclusive not exclusive Every individual employed by Rowlinson, regardless of the job role, is subject to a thorough four-stage interview process. This is for the benefit of the employee as much as the business. Rowlinson wants its staff to be happy but, equally, highly productive and with a compatible work ethic, so it makes no apology for ensuring the person fits the bill.

Its recruitment process starts with an initial application form, then a telephone interview, followed by a “culture” interview, whereby the applicant is judged on “matched values of trust and care”, before the final stage of a skills test.

In keeping with its fair-for-all philosophy, Rowlinson’s employee benefits are inclusive, not exclusive. For instance, all staff are entitled to 25 days holiday from day one.

There is sickness pay and European Computer Driving Licence (ECDL) training for all. All employees were paid above the living wage last year and received an extra two days holiday as a reward for strong customer satisfaction results. There is also employee recognition for all via the company’s Employee of the Year awards and competitions that include

the chance for staff to visit Rowlinson’s offshore factories.

Other key benefits include early and improved pensions, childcare vouchers, flexible working hours, including term-time contracts, a healthcare cash plan and death in service at four times the employee’s salary.

Rowlinson even provides interest free loans to employees who find themselves in financial difficulty and debt.

The history of Rowlinson All that said, a successful company cannot survive on well-being alone. It also requires strong leadership and clever strategy, which is provided primarily by current managing director Donald Moore, who joined in 1999. It was while working for a textile consultancy that Moore had his first encounter with Rowlinson, carrying out a DTI funded project for the business. The outcome of the project saw him suggest three fundamental changes for Rowlinson’s improvement which, in hindsight, were game changers for the business. His advice was to invest in embroidery as a key driver for customers, appoint the business’ first-ever sales executive, and add sweatshirts OCTOBER 2015 - 36

PROFILE | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

IAN SMITH IN 1988

L-R: CHRIS, DORIS AND KEVIN ROWLINSON

to the range, which at the time no-one else specialised in. His suggestions were integrated, leading to the appointment of Andrew McConnell in 1993. Since McConnell’s appointment, sales turnover for the company has grown from £800,000 to over £11m and, today, he holds the title of Rowlinson’s sales director.

The family run firm Moore encountered 15 years ago was a very different business than it is today. Beginning life as a small, Stockport fashion knitter, specialising in ladies’ knitwear, it was called E&W Rowlinson – named after its founders, Edna and Wilfred Rowlinson.

While the business closed during the war, it reopened after the conflict and employed six people, who collectively produced around twenty-dozen garments a week.

A family business in the true sense of the word, Wilfred ran the factory, his wife Doris worked on the wages and books, with their son, Kevin Rowlinson, entering the business in the 60s. Kevin was instrumental in moving the small firm into manufacturing knitwear for school uniform, which was produced on a seasonal basis alongside the fashion knitwear.

The company slowly grew and, in 1987, moved from Hempshaw Lane in Stockport to the town’s Woodbank Industrial Estate.

The new premises, where Rowlinson still remains today, provided 11,000 sq ft of space for growth, and the company began focusing on the production of schoolwear and corporatewear. Kevin’s son, Chris Rowlinson, was the third-generation member to enter the business. Joining around 18 years ago, today he is the firm’s production director, responsible for embroidery, warehousing and distribution.

Ian Smith is another long-standing and key figure in Rowlinson’s making, joining the company almost 30 years ago at 16 years of age.

Smith has climbed in the company over that time, from his early years, where his role was to turn jumpers the right way out after production, to his current position as planning and customer care manager and racking up several “employee of the year” awards along the way.

The economic benefits to Rowlinson of the EO include higher productivity. This higher productivity sees EO companies perform much better in recession, they make and retain more profit, and they achieve higher customer satisfaction. Employee engagement is also higher than in other companies, which contributes to better staff retention.

For Rowlinson employees, the benefits include greater stability, because the company they work for can now never be sold. Each employee benefits from a profit share, which is tax free; obviously one of the biggest incentives that the government provides to employee-owned companies. Additionally, employees gain a “real say” in their company as one of its four trustees. It allows them a final say in the company’s biggest decisions, and even permits the right to remove and appoint directors.

For the management of Rowlinson, the move provides the opportunity to continue to improve customer satisfaction, service and lead times, together with the way they run the business for the benefit of everyone.

Rowlinson’s new ownership can be compared to John Lewis’ model. It will share some of its profits across all of its employees and it will retain more profits to build a healthier business for the future.

Becoming employee owned The latest phase in Rowlinson’s evolution, and also its most significant, was last month’s announcement that it has become employee owned. Employment ownership (EO) means the controlling interest of the company is in the hands of the employees via an EO trust.

Far-reaching ethics A real testament to Rowlinson’s unwavering conduct of care is just how far the business’ sense of ethics reach. Rowlinson is, for instance, an Accord signatory. The Accord on Fire and Building safety in Bangladesh was formed in the immediate aftermath of the

Funding employment ownership Funding of the employee ownership, and any impact on business, is one concern Rowlinson is keen to reassure. The employee ownership has been funded by Rowlinson’s bank, HSBC, via a long-term loan, which will pay shareholders for their shares.

This, and higher retention of profits, means that there will be no added financial pressures on the business. In fact, Rowlinson has invested even more into buying additional stocks, and much earlier, too, in order to maintain its best service ethos. This, combined with honing of its product offer to a minimum of products it knows it can produce and sell well, has set Rowlinson in its strongest-ever stead.

Rana Plaza building collapse in April 2013 – which led to the death of more than 1,100 people and injured more than 2,000. Having its own Bangladesh factory, New Horizon, Rowlinson was keen to help the cause and in signing the independent agreement has made its contribution to making sure all garment factories in Bangladesh eventually become safe workplaces. As New Horizon’s only customer, and in compliance with Rowlinson’s core company values of Care, Trust and to Be Better, Moore felt added responsibility to help give the factory’s staff the best working environment possible. With access to clean water in very limited supply in Bangladesh, and a leading cause of illness and death, Moore committed Rowlinson to donate water filter machines to each and every one of New Horizon’s staff with two or more years’ service, helping to safeguard both the workers and their families’ health.

An award-winning business As Moore jokingly admits himself, the work ethic and approach at Rowlinson could almost be described as “evangelical” but, modesty aside, the company’s set up and success is something special and has been acknowledged so accordingly. Amid its business awards, Rowlinson achieved Investors in People Gold status this year after receiving Silver in this best practice people management standard in 2014.

Both titles followed in-depth assessment of the company and its conduct, with this year’s elevation to Gold testament of the continued improvements made. Rowlinson has also been a finalist in the Stockport Employer of the Year business awards for the past three years, winning in 2014, and awaiting the 2015 results this month. It is also the first company in Stockport to be awarded with the Wellbeing Charter certificate, demonstrating care for the health, mental health and well-being of all of its people.

Rowlinson is a true “values business”, built on the founding family’s hard work, determination and commitment. Now, this ethos will be preserved through the family’s decision to make the company employee owned. “It seemed to us that the interests of everyone were best served by our family taking this action,” adds Chris Rowlinson. “In doing so, we could secure the longevity and security of the business – which is our first concern.

It seemed the right thing to do in a business that’s so strongly driven by ethics.”

And its driver for the future? Simply “to be better in everything it does”.

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INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BLUE MAX BANNER: THE NEXT PHASE CWB’s Laura Turner speaks to Nigel Plenderleith, managing director of schoolwear specialist Blue Max Banner, to discuss the business’ recent management buyout.

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In July of this year, the shareholders of schoolwear specialist Blue Max Group announced the sale of the business. Led by Blue Max Group’s managing director, Nigel Plenderleith, the buyout has been backed by growth capital investor MML Capital Partners.

Laura Turner: What course of events led to the management buyout of Blue Max Banner?

Nigel Plenderleith: After running a successful business for 28 years, the Fawcus family felt that this year was the right time to retire from the Blue Max Banner business and allow the management to take the business forward. Everyone was closely involved in the process to ensure that adequate investment was in place, and that Blue Max Banner, under its new ownership, would be in a position to maintain the company’s core values and principles.

NIGEL PLENDERLEITH

LT: What were the biggest challenges faced during the management buyout?

NP: For the past 12 months, the management buyout has occupied a substantial amount of my time. Continuing to keep focused on managing the business on a day-to-day level while also trying to find the most suitable private equity investor to partner with was an

extremely time intensive process. Now that it is completed, I look forward to the opportunity of looking at the business more objectively and concentrating on the development of a long-term strategic direction for the Blue Max Banner business.

LT: Why did you choose to work with MML Capital Partners?

NP: MML was our preferred investment partner because it promised long-term commitment and investment in the business. The MML team is also flexible in its approach and will allow us to get on with the job – so it has been very much “business as usual”.

LT: Who is on Blue Max Banner’s new senior management team and board of directors?

NP: We are currently in the process of recruiting a chief financial officer (CFO) as well as a sales and marketing director, which will add a number of new faces to our workforce, strengthening the team and injecting further expertise into the business.

George Adams, the new chairman, together with two members of the MML team – Luke Jones and Bal Johal – also bring a wealth of experience across a wide range of industries. The new appointments, together with several other posts, are all designed to amplify our existing teams and deliver even better customer service.

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INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

TIMELINE: 1988 It all started in an attic in 1988, when Mary Fawcus was asked to raise funds for the 1988 Equestrian Olympic Fund and started mail ordering a special commemorative sweatshirt.

The company was born and named after Fawcus’ event horse, Blue Max. 2006 Stag Knitwear of Nottingham acquisition adds a range of more formal schoolwear – as well as Medallion Sportswear – to the Blue Max Banner Group.

2010 This year saw the acquisition of the renowned Banner and Beau Brummel schoolwear brands – which immediately transforms the combined operation into a £26m turnover business. The two labels bring over 150 years of schoolwear heritage to the Blue Max Banner Group. Beau Brummel’s origins date back to 1851, with Banner assuming control of the business 100 years later. The Banner Group also brings specialist embroidery and tailormade offerings to the portfolio, enabling the addition of a new and growing arm to the business in the shape of a bespoke service.

2013 The Blue Max Banner Group remains a family owned company, strengthening its position as a leading schoolwear supplier, while continuing to build its portfolio of sportswear and printwear.

2015 A management buyout is completed in July, led by Blue Max Banner Group’s MD, Nigel Plenderleith, and backed by growth capital investor MML Capital Partners. Under the direction of the new management team, Blue Max Banner intends to build on its strong foundations and brand values.

LT: What is the vision for Blue Max Banner under the new reshaped team?

NP: Blue Max Banner will remain the company it is, but with some immediate developments to enhance the customer experience.

Improvements will also be made to products in areas where it is required, including packaging and overall presentation of our products at retail, including relevant POS packages. Strengthening our overall marketing strategy and investing in delivering integrated marketing and product initiatives that resonate with our target audience are key focus areas to support the overall growth plans of the business. On a below-the-line level, we will be looking at boosting our promotional activity during the key Back to School retail periods.

LT: What other opportunities has the management buyout presented?

NP: Sportswear has been identified as a key development area and plans are well under way to develop a new sportswear collection to be launched in early 2016. Schoolwear currently represents a significant part of our business and will continue to be a key focus. The market continues to grow in both value and volume due to the changing dynamic within the schoolwear market, and we see this as an ongoing opportunity for Blue Max Banner.

LT: What elements of Blue Max Banner’s initial business ethos do you see remaining

and, equally, what do you see changing and evolving?

NP: As I say, it’s business as usual. Essentially, our commitment to delivering outstanding service to our customers remains unchanged.

Our key focus in terms of immediate development is to make investment and implement changes in areas where we can deliver tangible benefits to our customers.

Marketing, branding and product innovation are all areas where we are intensifying our efforts.

LT: What can we expect from Blue Max Banner for Back to School 2016? Will there be any key launches at this year’s Schoolwear Show?

NP: In the immediate future, we are extending our existing blazer offering and introducing a new suiting collection. Our outerwear range includes a new innovative addition and of course, as mentioned, we also have plans to develop a new and exciting performance sportswear line. Watch this space.

LT: What are your mid to long terms plans?

Where do you see the business in five years?

NP: In five years’ time, I want Blue Max Banner to be the most professional business operating in this sector offering strong, recognisable and trusted brands with integrity and genuine credibility.

LT: Following the acquisition of The Banner Group, Stag Knitwear and Medallion

Sportswear, are further bolt-on acquisitions a possibility?

NP: Historically, Blue Max Banner’s success has come partly from sound acquisitions and, where the opportunity arises, it will still be a possibility.

LT: In your opinion, what challenges are the wider schoolwear sector currently facing, and how do you see the industry evolving?

NP: The changes in the market are driven by the growth of academies, free schools, school trusts and increased pupil numbers.

Many of the educational institutions want to create their own individual identities and, therefore, the trend is moving more towards a bespoke uniform solution. The challenge here is managing expectations in terms of the ordering process and longer lead times to create, deliver and satisfy customer needs.

LT: What advice would you give to other business leaders involved in a management buyout process?

NP: The key risk is putting together an over-optimistic business plan, which is difficult to deliver. The upside and rewards of a successful management buyout is the opportunity for the new management to create a business that they believe in passionately, with the resources and infrastructure in place to take it to the next level.

OCTOBER 2015 - 39

Our people count...

Rowlinson Knitwear has been a family business for 80 years.

We are proud to announce that we are now owned by our employees.

Celebrating business excellence in 2014

2014

Employer of the year award

www.rowlinson-knitwear.com

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW

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BALMORAL Balmoral manufactures bespoke British-made school knitwear in a wide range of yarn qualities. Its offer includes pullovers, cardigans and slip-overs in a soft-handle 100 per cent acrylic; Teflon-treated 50 per cent merino wool 50 per cent acrylic; 80 per cent wool 20 per cent nylon; and Nanotech-treated 70 per cent merino wool 30 per cent nylon. A minimum of just 24 per style (for stock yarn shades) can be made in the Balmoral factory in Ayrshire, Scotland, and bespoke orders, including contrast stripes and embroidery if required, can be produced in just 4-5 weeks. Examples of all these garments, in a range of weights and knit structures including cable-knit cricket sweaters, will be available to view at the show. Other stock knitwear, including fully fashioned single-bed pullovers in 50 per cent cotton, 50 per cent acrylic and 60 per cent wool, 40 per cent nylon from Balmoral’s off-shore partners in Eastern Europe will also be available to view.

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BLUE MAX BANNER With the government firmly behind the roll out of more academies across the UK, Blue Max Banner (BMB) is poised to meet demand in 2016 with its most comprehensive range to date.

New to the portfolio is the Aspire Suiting Collection. The jacket is available in styles for both girls and boys, with distinctive features common to both including jetted hip pockets with flaps, a welt chest pocket and fitted styling and a jacquard lining with piped trim.

For embroiderers, there is a concealed zip for easy access. The jacket can be teamed with a choice of trousers and skirts. Girls can select from a straight or pleated skirt, and an on-trend, slim-fit trouser is available for both boys and girls.

The Aspire range is constructed from a 65 per cent polyester and 35 per cent viscose fabric, is washable at 40 degrees and coated with a Max Tech stain-resistant finish. The collection is available in the three colour options of black, grey and navy.

Alternatively, the trousers and skirts can also be teamed with the new Prestige 55 per cent poly and 45 per cent wool-mix jacket in designs catering for males and females. Available in black or navy, each offers sophisticated fitted styling, button cuffs and a striped jacquard lining with contrast stripe to the sleeve lining. Despite their wool content, the jackets can be washed at 30 degrees. The new collection is available in chest sizes from 26” to 50”, including odd sizes to ensure best fit.

Tartan continues to be a key trend for 2015/2016, with BMB’s offering designed to create a completely unique uniform. BMB is anticipating demand with a Quality Yarn Die Tartan Fabric in a poly and viscose mix available in five colour options and two new styles; the Skye Tartan Skirt – an easy pull-on knife-pleat skirt with an elasticated waistband – and the Kelso Kilt, with stitched-down knife pleats and a wrap front and internal waist adjuster to accommodate all sizes.

Customers can also create their own designs with the new tartan fabric by taking advantage of the BMB Bespoke Service.

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BO-BELL Footwear brand Bo-bell will be presenting its 2016 school shoe collection at this year’s show. Key features within the range include new reflective materials for safety, rubber toe bumpers for scuff resistance, leather linings or anti-bacterial linings that inhibit fungal and bacterial growth, new patents in bigger sizes and a wide range.

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CARIBEE Caribee has been designing and manufacturing backpacks for over 50 years, with all bags having a three-year warranty. Highlights for BTS 2016 include the Retro backpack, whose features include an Action Back harness, A4 compatible main compartment, multiple storage compartments and an internal organiser panel.

Colour options are black, petrol and berry. Also key are the starter-pack ranges and the Rhine backpack. A bespoke embroidery service is available for selected products.

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CHADWICK TEAMWEAR This year marks Chadwick Teamwear’s third consecutive Schoolwear Show since launching its stock range of unbranded performance sportswear five years ago. Its garments can now be seen across a wide range of sports in schools, universities, grass roots sports clubs, as well as pro and semi-pro teams.

As a performance fabric supplier, it offers a 28-piece collection of key school products, with bestsellers including base layers, T-shirts, polos, rugby and training shorts, skorts, technical jackets and pants.

Its new schoolwear products include a quarter zip mid-layer, colour-combination polo, thermal winter coat and girls’ leggings.

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CHARLES KIRK Boasting over 75 years’ of manufacturing experience, Charles Kirk still manufactures stock and bespoke garments in its factory in Worthing. Its Heritage Definition acrylic knitted garments use the softest, smoothest yarn for performance knitwear.

To complement the range, Coolacryl has been designed in the UK and produced offshore to provide a durable, acrylic garment at a lower price point. Blends of wool/acrylic and cotton/acrylic, including the bestselling Coolflow range, are also available from both UK and offshore. The Colour + sweatshirts range continues to expand as schools demand higher standards in colour retention.

Charles Kirk offers a five-day embroidery and printing service on all stock garments, and is a preferred supplier of the Russell Jerzees Schoolwear range. Result jackets will also be on display at the show, as will examples of new products, which are a result of Charles Kirk’s continued investment in its manufacturing capacity.

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1:

3:

1: David Luke Trimmed boys’ Eco premier blazer

2:

2: David Luke Girls’ shawl collar jacket 3: David Luke Girls’ senior slim-fit Eco trouser

DIAMOND TEXTILES DAVID LUKE Following demand for a more stylish jacket for boys and girls in an upgraded fabric, David Luke has added to its stock range for BTS 2016 with the new Aspire collection of poly/wool jackets. David Luke aims to cater for the demand of the many secondary schools, sixth forms and academies seeking a more stylish and sophisticated look available to order from stock with the new Aspire offer. Made from a durable 55 per cent polyester and 45 per cent wool, all of the jackets in the range not only look smart the whole year through, but are designed to ensure maximum comfort for the wearer. The full range at present includes three jackets – two for girls and one for boys – available in 26”-52” chest size in black or navy from stock.

Also new is the girls’ senior slim-fit eco trouser. Designed to fit many schools’ uniform policies for girls, this trouser suits the more “fashion conscious” wearer. The style is slim-leg fit, made from durable yet comfortable eco polyester/viscose/elastane fabric, and designed to withstand the wear and tear of school life, as well as being eco-friendly. Sizes on offer range from a 22”-38” waist, with S, R, L and XL leg lengths available on most waist sizes.

Colours are black, grey and navy from stock.

Improvements made to David Luke’s current range for BTS 2016 include taping on skirts and blazers for additional smartness and colour. The fabric and fit of the rugby-style short have also been improved, with the fit seeing a slight narrowing of the leg, while the fabric is now a popular brushed poly and cotton – the same as David Luke’s DL17 sports short. Finally, the Bermuda-length boys’ school short is now flat fronted and has improved fit, once again with a slimmed leg for a more tailored look.

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Diamond Textiles has over 20 years’ experience in manufacturing high-quality, durable fabrics and garments, and is a specialist in the fleece and schoolwear market.

Garments include crew-neck sweatshirts, V-neck sweatshirts, cardigans and jog pants.

Other items are available on request, with personalised label options also available. Local and offshore production ensures that all sales, small or large, can be provided for.

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ETRADER eTrader is a leading supplier of personalised websites for garment decorators, created by garment decorators. eTrader has continued to grow over the past four years, building bespoke websites with design tools, a content management system, sales tools, SEO tools and marketing tools, to provide a low-cost solution for small print and embroidery businesses.

With a number of customers from a variety of backgrounds, the eTrader system continues to develop and grow, offering the latest web-design at affordable prices for small to medium size businesses in the industry.

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FALCON SPORTSWEAR Falcon Sportswear is increasing its stock colourways in the popular Spirit range to include black, sky and white. The recently added made-to-order EncoRe line has also been so well received that Falcon is now running six garments in four colourways from stock.

New for 2016 is Falcon Primary, a selection of T-shirts and shorts made from performance fabrics in a range of colours, all from stock, and ideal for the post-nursery market.

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HALBRO With over 96 years’ experience, Halbro is firmly established in the school market as a supplier of high-performance, bespoke sports clothing to suit all team and school sports, clubs and associations. It offers solutions for all requirements using technical performance fabrics with innovative designs, high-quality service and short lead times. Halbro’s new exclusive range will be available to view at the show.

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GYMPHLEX Gymphlex and GForce Sportswear have over 100 years’ experience producing high-quality sportswear. GForce will showcase seven new design styles at the show, as well as a wide range of its school sportswear items, using real-life case studies of schools across the UK who’ve brought their teamwear to life using the brand.

In recent months, in response to feedback from schools, GForce has adapted its designs, moving its own logo toward the shoulder of garments to allow the school’s logo to be more prominent.

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MAPED HELIX

KOZI KIDZ High-performance outdoor childrenswear brand Kozi Kidz will present its new Oxford Explorer rainwear collection. The new range is the next generation of the brand’s bestselling Oxford rainwear, updated with new fabrics and features for functionality and performance.

The durable Oxford Explorer garments are 100 per cent waterproof and breathable. Made from lightweight Oxford polyester fabric, the jacket and trousers have a 5,000mm hydrostatic head as well as fully taped seams. A slightly stronger cut at the rear of the jacket offers protection, while a full-length YKK zip, complete with a protective storm flap, ensures the jacket is easy to put on and take off. A zip guard at the chin is included to prevent the jacket rubbing, while the fully detachable hood and highly visable reflectors add increased safety. The matching trousers in the same fabric include extra reinforcement across the knees and seat, repositioned inner leg seams to reduce the level of abrasion, an elasticated waistband, fully adjustable and detachable braces and silicone foot straps.

The Oxford Explorer Jacket is available in berry, navy or black, each with contrasting trims and lining. The co-ordinating trousers come in black.

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Offering colourful and innovative stationery is Maped Helix, which will be unveiling its new ranges at the show. Highlights include the educative and fun pencil sharpener, Bunny Innovation, which is available in a choice of colours. The patented innovation, which sees the bunny’s teeth move up and down when the pencil is rotated clockwise, teaches children to sharpen pencils correctly. Another popular and recent creation is the award-winning Jungle Innovation. This product features 12 brightly coloured felt pens contained within one flexible compact holder, with the caps integrated into the base. When the base opens, the pens fan out like a palm tree, making colour selection quick and easy.

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MAKURA SPORT Established in Wales in 2008, Makura Sport has a specific focus on producing protective sports equipment. Following on from the success of both the Toka Pro and Ignis Pro mouth guard ranges, the latest product to be launched is the Tephra Max Mouth guard, which provides ultimate protection for all athletes competing in any contact sport. In addition to mouth guards, gum shields, sports accessories and equipment, including protection equipment, will also be available.

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MARTON MILLS Marton Mills is an established weaving company based in Yorkshire. The largest UK supplier of schoolwear fabric, it offers in stock lines in a variety of compositions to suit requirements. An experienced in-house design team offers bespoke designs, and enhances the high standard of quality and level of service.

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MARATHON Marathon will be exhibiting its full range, which includes everyday book folios and PE bags through to its Performance Bags, which use premium quality fabric, components and construction.

Two key focuses at this year’s show are the introduction of TUFFlite, Marathon’s next-generation performance fabric and the official launch of the new Performance backpack, School Pak. TUFFlite is Marathon’s upgraded, new and improved Performance fabric, a nylon made with an even higher density weave, and the PVC backing has been replaced with a PU coating.

These improvements allow for the same smart appearance while achieving an even stronger and lighter fabric, with Performance bags now between 15-30 per cent lighter. School Pak, meanwhile, is Marathon’s newest junior school bag style made to Performance quality and designed to carry A4 books and folders. Ergonomic features include side compression straps and an internal base board.

It also includes two main compartments with front accessory pocket, lightly padded back panel and shoulder straps, mesh water bottle holder and reflective strip.

All of Marathon’s products are suitable for screen printing, heat transfer and embroidery. It offers a full, in-house artwork service and is able to convert any logo into a choice of formats and advise customers on the most suitable application to suit requirements.

Its design team is able to create conceptual sketches based on any design requirements, from logo visualisation through to bespoke bag design.

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NATIONAL WEAVING

OPRO

National Weaving is set to present new lines at this year’s show. For its name label printing systems, it will be launching a new range of label stocks. In the past, it has only offered white iron-on labels, but the new range includes blue and pink iron-on labels; blue, pink and silver shoe and property labels; soft satin iron-on labels; and Stick ‘n Wash labels (pictured), where no sewing or ironing is required.

In addition to the aforementioned blank stocks, the new Stick ‘n Wash Labels are also available for customers to order pre-printed in a wide range of colours. The Stick ‘n Wash labels apply to clothing without need for sewing nor ironing – they simply stick to an existing care label. National Weaving will be demonstrating all of the new stocks and label printers at the show.

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At this year’s show, Opro will be promoting its new Club Swimwear collection and its soon-to-be relaunched Self-Fit mouth guard range.

The Maru Club and Core swimwear lines see an extended selection of colour combinations available, raised from three to five for the Team Pacer Jammers and the Team Pacer Vault Backs (black/red, navy/cobalt, royal/yellow, black/yellow and navy/red). The size range is 22”-32” for boys and 22”-34” for girls. All items are made from chlorine-resistant Pacer fabric, which is highly UV resistant and long-lasting. There is also a selection of four solid colours for boys’ briefs, shorts and Jammers, and four solid colours for girls across the open-back and closed-back costumes.

Developments to the Self-Fit mouth guard range, meanwhile, sees all mouth guards from Bronze upwards packaged in clams.

Silver mouth guards will no longer have yellow fins, as each outer colour will have its unique inner colour. The Gold and Platinum mouth guards will have coloured, Antimicrobial cases, which include Biomaster antimicrobial additive. Opro is also introducing a range of flavoured mouth guards, including bubble gum, mint and lemon. All Bronze, Silver and flavoured mouth guards will be available in junior sizes – which cater up to age 10 – with adult sizing for 10 years and above.

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ORION TEAMWEAR For 2016, Orion is focusing on the further development of two key areas – UK manufacture and Orion Buy Back.

It will be promoting its Made in Britain sublimated range of products at the show, which are manufactured at the company’s head office in Newcastle upon Tyne. To ensure ongoing availability of skilled labour, Orion is working with the local authority with a view to establishing a manufacturing school in Newcastle.

Orion Buy Back will also be endorsed – which is a service the company offers to specialist independent schoolwear retailers to take back and credit old PE uniform from any retailer that converts a school to the Orion range.

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POD Pod returns to The Schoolwear Show this month with its latest offering for BTS 2016. Amid its collection is the introduction of new girls’ “stitch out” shoes in black leather and patent uppers with soft leather linings available in sizes 20-35.

Also, in response to customer feedback, the brand has included a unisex brogue shoe in sizes 26-38, available in black and brown to accommodate schools that require brown shoes. Pod will also be showing new designs in its bestselling Stag and Terrain ranges, which include cemented and stitched soles in scuff-resistant, wipe-clean leathers available in sizes 32-46.

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SATCH

RICOSTA Showing its range of German-designed schools shoes, which are manufactured in Europe, is footwear brand Ricosta.

Highlights include high-quality leather uppers and linings; removable and washable foot beds; durable, lightweight and flexible PU sole units, moulded onto the uppers; an in-stock programme; and WMS width fitting.

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At this year’s Schoolwear Show, William Turner will also be showcasing the German bag brand Satch after being appointed Satch’s UK distributor earlier this year.

The range includes a backpack, pencil case, duffle bag, gym bag and wallet in a wide selection of vibrant colours, with all fabrics made from 100 per cent recycled PET bottles.

The backpack, a winner of the German and Reddot Design Awards, offers excellent ergonomic features and grows along with the individual height of the wearer.

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ROWLINSON At this year’s Schoolwear Show, Rowlinson will be showing its full range of knitwear together with its Woodbank range, which is being relaunched following product upgrades. The sweatshirts comprise 65 per cent polyester and 35 per cent cotton fabric, weighing in at an above average 280gsm. The hard-wearing fabric has been further developed, brushed for extra warmth and dyed to lock in colour and hold it, wash after wash.

These easy care garments are suitable for washing at 40°C with a cool tumble and cool iron if required. With a classic raglan sleeve for ease of movement, and elasticated cuffs that have recently been re-worked for comfort at the wrist, Woodbank is both durable and practical.

Available in a myriad of colours for both sweatshirts and polo shirts, the garments can be delivered from stock in 24 hours, or given Rowlinson’s speedy embroidery treatment and delivered in just a few days.

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TOP TO TOE Top to Toe has been developing retail software for over 20 years. At the show, it will be presenting the latest addition to its range, Wow Sync. This mobile technology means with just a phablet and scanner, a retailer can sync their stock and sales, see best and worst sellers, do mobile stock checks and track sales. Key features include Top to Toe hosting the system, allowing a business to run from anywhere with Top to Toe’s hub management interface. New products uploaded to Wow Sync automatically, and appear on all of a business’ websites and shops. The user can use manufacturers barcodes or Wow Sync’s automatically generated barcode labels, while Wow Sync mobile barcode scanners capture sales as they are made. Additionally, every sale updates the business’ stock figures on all sites and all locations. You can also enter stock, run reports and track sales.

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SKIDS FOR KIDS School footwear brand Skids has been developing its new offer for BTS 2016 and will be introducing seven new styles to complement its range.

All new styles are available to order in a choice of black, navy or brown leather uppers and feature a choice of either leather or breathable fabric lining. These options are designed to provide retailers with the ability to fine tune their stock and cater for schools where the preferred shoe colour is either navy or brown, while also giving parents options on price.

Highlights of the new range include a younger boys’ style with a thicker sole than is used on the current premium range alongside a unisex lace-up brogue and for the first time, adult-inspired styles for senior boys available in sizes 3-8.

Retailers wishing to stock Skids school shoes for 2016 can place their order in advance for guaranteed delivery around February/March 2016, while retailers wishing to order from the current collection will receive orders immediately.

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SPOT ON GIFTS New at this year’s show is Spot On Gifts, one of the biggest companies in the UK supplying official football and character merchandise for trade.

Its product range includes licensed backpacks, lunch bags, plastic and aluminium bottles, shin guards, gloves, gym bags, shoe bags, filled pencil cases and stationery sets.

Its character licenses include the latest movie release, Star Wars Episode VII, while bestsellers include Marvel Comics, Disney, Fireman Sam and Paw Patrol.

The company has a close partnership with major football licensees, with its 100 per cent official football range covering over 12,000 products for over 32 football clubs. Official merchandise of Rugby World Cup 2015 is also available.

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TOTTO New to the UK, distributed by Brand Agility, is Totto, a multinational fashion brand leader in Latin America of backpacks and accessories. Totto’s designs are made to adapt to clients’ needs and to offer a balance of aesthetics and functionality.

Brand Agility will be launching the 2016 Totto range of school bags, lunch packs, pencil cases and gear bags at The Schoolwear Show.

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THE MAGIC TOUCH Digital image transfer specialist The Magic Touch is launching a new 7.8 version of the existing, award-winning WoW transfer paper, offering improved processing and increased printable product options. Used in conjunction with the TMT/Oki C711WT (colour and white-toner) LED printer, WoW7.8 creates real marketing opportunity for those involved in garment and promotional product decoration, offering the user the ability to print full colour to almost any fabric or garment, regardless of colour or textile composition. This includes cotton, polyester, denim, nylon, soft-shell, polypongee and most performance fabrics. The process eliminates any “cutting or weeding” requirements and produces detailed designs quickly and economically. Each printer is installed with the new SpaceControl V3 RIP that enables full management and control on colours, white in particular, and is complete with a three year warranty.

The new WoW7.8 is available in both the A4 and A4XL sizes, offering single designs up to 420mm in length, with the ability to also produce full colour multiple logos per sheet for as little as 20p per transfer, subject to size.

This affordable white-toner innovation also produces great opacity and a very high “white” factor for non-fabric hard surface applications using the existing CPM transfer paper. These include dark-colour mugs, diaries, leather, wood, glass, board, PU surfaces and metals.

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TRUTEX For 2016, Trutex is launching a selection of new products including products featuring Trutex Stay Smart, a range of new attributes designed to ensure Trutex schoolwear remains looking newer for longer.

Innovations continue with a “smart pocket” feature in boys’ trousers and in new products within the girls’ skirt and junior product categories. To support its growing customer base, Trutex’s sports brand, Akoa, sees extra colourways and sizes for 2016.

Meanwhile, the addition of Trutex’s UK manufacturing arm, John Hall England, has provided new capabilities to manufacture truly bespoke solutions in a wide range of woven garments.

—

OCTOBER 2015 - 52

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

URBAN JUNK Urban Junk is making its Schoolwear Show debut this year with a collection of BTS backpacks. The range features over 40 designs including Fly High Junky, which has wings, and Jiggy (pictured), a jigsaw design using an embossed material.

—

WINTERBOTTOM’S WILLIAM TURNER William Turner’s new stocked range of contrast trim school bags will again be featured at this year’s Schoolwear Show.

The collection, exclusive to William Turner, includes a despatch bag and gym bag, as well as both an infant and junior backpack, and is unique due to the trim on each bag being supplied in a contrasting colour. This offers schools an opportunity to match their school bag to other items of their uniform.

The colour combinations are based upon its bestselling stock tie designs and popular special tie shades. It has seven colours trimmed with gold – black, bottle, maroon, navy, purple, red and royal. Also available are navy/jade, navy/red and navy/sky options.

In addition, William Turner will be showcasing new backpacks in printed fabrics, new scarf styles, hair accessories and, due to the success of its stocked water bottles, a selection of bottles in different sizes and colours.

—

Following a successful BTS 2015 driven by improved stock support, Winterbottom’s has committed to even more investment in core products for the 2016 season.

As a result, it will be offering retailers some new, tailored stock-support packages.

New products to be launched include a stock-supported, tailored-fit blazer in both boys’ and girls’ styles; slim-fit, easy care shirts and blouses in new packaging; improved fit and specification on non-iron shirts and blouses; and a new raglan sleeve, acrylic blend sweatshirt collection available in three styles to complement the new poly/cotton styles launched in 2015.

—

uuu OCTOBER 2015 - 53

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

THE SCHOOLWEAR SHOW 11-13 OCTOBER 2015 SHEWARD HOUSE, CRANMORE AVENUE, SHIRLEY, SOLIHULL B90 4LF WWW.THESCHOOLWEARSHOW.CO.UK

DAVID LUKE

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ROWLINSON

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28.

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OPRO

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INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SCHOOLWEAR HERITAGE This year, Trutex celebrates its 150-year anniversary, supplying school uniform for children spanning six generations. CWB speaks to the company’s MD, Matthew Easter, for an update on the business’ most recent activities.

—

Established in 1985 in Grindleton, in the heart of Lancashire’s Ribble Valley, the Clitheroe Shirting Company has been manufacturing under the Trutex brand since the early 1920s, changing its name to Trutex in 1965. Throughout its history, Trutex has strived to be an innovator and adapt to the ever-changing trends of the schoolwear market, with the last five years of its 150 seeing some of its most crucial developments.

Laura Turner: Trutex was acquired by private equity firm Endless in 2010, before a management buyout of the company earlier this year. How has Trutex evolved over that five-year period?

Matthew Easter: It is no secret that despite a long history, and a very strong brand in the schoolwear market, Trutex had not been progressing as a business in the years running up to the 2010 acquisition. With the support of private equity firm Endless, we were able

to take a “clean sheet” approach on how the business operated and implement far-reaching changes to our operating model. This included re-strengthening our relationships with independent retailers across the UK, and the development of our sportswear brand, Akoa, which has been extremely successful. We have enjoyed three years of strong growth from the Akoa brand since it was launched, and believe there is the capacity to increase sales further in the years ahead. We continue to add to and refine our range, and will be introducing yet more colour options to ensure we provide a wide choice for our customers going forward.

Another major development was our acquisition of the John Hall specialist manufacturing business in 2013 – an operation that has been further developed since.

LT: John Hall Schoolwear has subsequently added a UK manufacturing arm to the business.

How has this enhanced Trutex’s offer?

ME: Our John Hall business has given us the opportunity to provide more bespoke schoolwear for schools that want to go down that route – particularly those in the independent sector. It also gives us the flexibility to work in shorter production runs and within smaller time scales where appropriate, too. This benefits retailers and schools that are looking for a more unique approach to their uniform, as we are able to work with customers on their design requirements, along with specifications and fabrics.

LT: Is UK-manufactured product something Trutex intends to build upon?

ME: Absolutely. We believe that John Hall has the capability to grow significantly in the next few years. We have invested in additional equipment and staff to drive efficiency and allow us to manufacture a broader range of products to support our retail customers.

OCTOBER 2015 - 56

INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MATTHEW EASTER

LT: What course of events led to Trutex’s management buyout earlier this year?

ME: Having invested in Trutex in 2010, our private equity partner Endless had worked with us through a period of strategic change and improvement, but were then happy to agree a deal with the existing management team, who were keen to take the business forward for the longer-term. The new structure has allowed us to take a long-standing strategic view on the business, including additional working capital investment to support our activities.

LT: What is the next phase for Trutex?

ME: We are continuing to develop and grow our brands with new products, services and initiatives, and we are particularly excited about the new products and service improvements for 2016. We continue to listen to our customers and work hard to meet their needs and those of their customers. We expect that the next five years will see new customers, coupled with more innovation in our product range, giving customers more reasons to choose Trutex.

LT: Amid the new offer for 2016, you are launching Trutex Stay Smart – what is this?

ME: Trutex Stay Smart is a set of clever product features over a range of our items, which will help keep these products looking smart for longer. Attributes include a permanent crease feature on boys’ trousers and a stain-resistant coating.

LT: Trutex offers a wide range of services for customers, retailers and schools. Can you tell me more about the support you provide?

ME: We believe strongly that it is important to provide as much support to our retail partners as possible to help them grow and develop their business with Trutex products and, equally, help facilitate the best-possible support for the schools and parents that they serve. This may include, for example, marketing literature, detailed product information or even support in-store when it

“It is no secret that despite a long history, and a very strong brand in the schoolwear market, Trutex had not been progressing as a business in the years running up to the 2010 acquisition. With the support of private equity firm Endless, we were able to take a ‘clean sheet’ approach on how the business operated and implement far-reaching changes to our operating model” is most needed in the summer. Trutex works in partnership with around 30 licensees across the UK. These businesses benefit from additional services and support, and give us a platform for working very closely together – which we feel is mutually beneficial.

Elsewhere, we have done such things as a Back to School guide, containing lots of tips and advice on school-related topics. We had articles written by the NSPCC, The Children’s Food Trust and Dr Sarah Jarvis from Radio 2’s Jeremy Vine Show on how to treat common school illnesses. Trutex has also designed and created a number of teaching resources with the help of local school teachers. The resources relate to specific topics taken from Key Stage 1 and 2, with the initial three encouraging learning in the areas of Design Technology, English and Citizenship.

will be visiting this month to experience the work done by the charity and to see how else we can help support them.

LT: Trutex recently supplied uniforms to Wood Street Mission children’s charity – can you tell me more about this?

ME: We were approached by Wood Street Mission to help them supply children in poverty from the Manchester and Salford regions with quality school uniform. The aim is to provide all children living in poverty in these regions with school uniform, so that they can help to break the cycle of poverty and help children fulfil their potential. We were pleased to help, and plan to continue supporting the cause next year and beyond.

LT Have you done anything as a company to mark Trutex’s 150th anniversary this year?

ME: Yes, we have marked the milestone with several initiatives. One of these was a special-edition 2015 children’s activity pack, which was free to Trutex retailers and their schools, and provided children with ideas of things to do over the summer holidays. The theme was Alice in Wonderland, which was a nod to 2015, marking the 150-year anniversary of both Trutex and the children’s book Alice in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll.

Activities in the packs included “How to make an origami white rabbit”, “How to make a Queen of Hearts crown and a Mad Hatter’s hat”, a word search, a Queen of Hearts tarts recipe, a colouring competition and some interesting facts. We are also planning to celebrate with our licensees and key customers later in the year.

LT: Is Trutex involved in any other charity work?

ME: Yes, we support a number of worthwhile causes, both locally and nationwide. We have, for instance, recently started supporting an orphanage in Malawi. Two of our office staff

LT: Another of Trutex’s credentials is its status as the UK’s first Carbon Neutral specialist schoolwear provider – what did you have to do to reach this status?

ME: It is quite a complex process and set-up to become Carbon Neutral, and Trutex has to go through an extensive auditing programme each year to maintain the status. Going down this route involved a complete change in mind-set for the business, as we need to deliver year-on-year reductions in CO2 emissions. It has, however, ignited a number of really good internal strategies to deliver these improvements, which we feel is an important part of being a responsible company.

OCTOBER 2015 - 57

Winterbottom’s Schoolwear The Schoolwear Show AIS Solihull 11th-13th October 2015 Stand no. 41

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A • Alvanon 020 7792 5977 www.alvanon.com • An Elf for Christmas Toy & Kit 0191 303 8668 www.elfforchristmas.co.uk • Anne-Claire Petit 0031 (0)206792338 www.anneclairepetit.nl B • Balmoral 01900 829229 www.balmoralknitwear.biz • Bandits Girl 020 8740 4097 www.brand-stable.com • Belle & Boo 0117 924 6382 www.belleandboo.com • BKD 07791 097481 www.bkd-london.com • Blade & Rose 07920 752260 www.bladeandrose.co.uk • Blue Max Banner 01225 715070 www.bluemaxbanner.co.uk • Bo-Bell 07809 426922 www.bo-bell.pt • Bogs www.bogsfootwear.com • Braveling 07786 071667 www.braveling.co.uk C • Caribee 0131 554 5555 www.caribee-uk.com • Chadwick Teamwear 0161 927 2565 www.chadwicktextiles.co.uk • Charles Kirk 01903 244863 www.charleskirk.co.uk D • David Luke 0161 272 7474 www.davidluke.com • D for Diamond 01376 532000 www.geckojewellery.com • Diamond Textiles 0116 251 0121 www.diamondtextiles.co.uk • Diddywear 07985 747660 www.diddywear.com E • Emile et Rose 01664 823924 www.emile-et-rose.co.uk • Enchanted Forest and Friends 01475 745794 www.enchantedforestandfriends.com F • Falcon Sportswear 01274 306440 www.falconsports.co.uk • Finn + Emma 01276 408494 www.naturalbabyshower.co.uk G • Gudrun & Gudrun Kids 0045 29617077 www.gudrungudrun.com • Gymphlex/GForce 0116 255 6326 www.gforcesportswear.co.uk H • Halbro 01204 696476 www.halbro.com • Hatley 020 7544 4833 www.hatley.com • Hazel Village 0161 900 2409 www.charvinjames.co.uk I • Inky & Mole 01935 826071 www.inkyandmole.co.uk K • K.T. Labels 0121 689 2211 www.kwiktapelabels.com L • Lapin & Me 07852 328492 www.lapinandme.co.uk M • Maped Helix 01384 286860 www.mapedhelix.co.uk • Marathon 01932 359188 www.marathonss.com • Marton Mills 0113 284 3364 www.martonmills.com • Mimosa www.mimosakids.com • Mini Vanilla 01306 877665 www.minivanilla.com • Moccis 0333 5777500 www.moccis.co.uk N • National Weaving 01834 861446 www.nationalweaving.co.uk • Noodoll 020 7253 1890 www.noodoll.com O • Opro 01442 430690 www.oprogroup.com • Orion Teamwear 0191 266 7651 www.orionteamwear.com • Oskar & Ellen 020 7000 1988 www.oskarellen.com P • Peacheyboo 01444 881945 www.peacheyboo.com • Petasil 01604 876800 www.petasilkidsshoes.com • Pipkits 01484 485100 www.burhousebeads.com/pipkits • Pixie Dixie 020 7631 2084 www.pixiedixie.co.uk • Poco Nido 0114 243 5886 www.poconido.com • Pod 01234 240440 www.pod-footwear.com • Powell Craft 01273 622023 www.powellcraft.co.uk • Primigi 020 8567 2384 www.primigi.it R • Rachel Riley 020 7935 7007 www.rachelriley.com • Red Urchin 07810 565999 www.redurchin.co.uk • Ricosta 0116 259 7427 www.ricosta.co.uk • Rowlinson 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com S • Satch by William Turner 0161 480 8582 www.ergobag.com/satch • Sense Organics 020 7253 9896 www.senseorganics.com • Skids 07973 831289 www.skidsforkids.co.uk • Spot on Gifts 020 8573 0803 www.spotongifts.net • Star51 020 3036 0637 www.star51.co.uk • Sunuva 020 7286 3955 www.sunuva.com T • The Magic Touch 01582 671444 www.themagictouch.co.uk • Toby Tiger 01903 766777 www.tobytiger.co.uk • Top to Toe 020 3376 5888 www.toptotoe.com • Trutex 01200 421200 www.trutex.com U • Urban Junk 020 8558 4400 www.urbanjunkuk.com W • Well Grounded Company www.wellgroundedco.com • Wild & Soft 0032 51804020 www.wildandsoft.com • William Turner 0161 480 8582 www.unicol-schoolwear.co.uk • Winterbottom’s 01254 390700 www.graham-winterbottom.co.uk Z • Zuma the Dog 07778 669680 www.zumathedog.com OCTOBER 2015 - 63

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FUN & FUN, LE CHIC, DEUX PAR DEUX, NO NO, BOBOLI, FOQUE, SARDON, LARANJINHA Weldon Agencies, Southport, Merseyside Tel: 01704 576033 Email: barrieweldon@btconnect.com, andrewweldon@btconnect.com www.weldonagencies.co.uk

ROCCAPINA AGENCY Agency representing high quality International brands offering classic, colourful and chic collections for ages 0-14 years. Covering the whole of the UK. LA QUEUE DU CHAT, BABINÉ BB, STURE&LISA, LEMON LOVES LIME, LEMON LOVES LAYETTE Roccapina Agency, 20 Bramley Close, Cogenhoe, Northampton, NN7 1LY Tel: 01832 776588 Email: sales@roccapina.co.uk www.roccapina.co.uk

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TALKING POINT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

DAVID BURGESS Schoolwear Association chair David Burgess, the new chair of the Schoolwear Association, reveals why he’s returned to the role he previously held in 2011, and what his plans are for the Association second time round.

— Laura Turner: You were appointed Schoolwear Association (SA) chair this year, but also held the position in 2011. Why have you decided to return?

David Burgess: Until recently, I was MD for school uniform and sportswear company David Luke, but I have passed this role on to my daughter, Kathryn Shuttleworth. Although I still have a role as executive chairman at David Luke, I have more time to focus on the work of the SA. I felt we achieved so much when I was chair of the SA last time round, and I think we can keep building on the progress we’ve made. I am passionate about the schoolwear industry and the values of the Association.

LT: What’s your message as the new chair?

DB: The message is that every child deserves good-quality, school-specific uniform. We want to continue to be the voice for the schoolwear industry and to campaign for high-quality, school-specific uniform from independent British manufacturers, suppliers and retailers. It is our role to make sure everyone understands how our industry works, and how important it is that children have access to quality uniforms from businesses that are experts in the field.

We will be proactive in putting that message across via the media, by lobbying government and stakeholders, and by communicating directly with head teachers, governors and organisations that represent them, as well as organisations interested in the wellbeing of children and education. We will also counter ill-founded criticism about the cost of school uniform with the huge body of evidence that we have accumulated to prove its real value.

LT: Do you plan to do anything differently second time round?

DB: The challenge has moved on from whether or not children should have uniform. We proved previously that by standing together and making the case for uniform, we had an effective collective voice. Now we are engaged in a campaign to prove the value of good quality, school-specific uniform over cheap chain store “grey wear” as well as the benefits that schools, parents and children get from having the expertise and commitment of dedicated independent suppliers. We aim to be much more inclusive; involving stakeholders and bringing them along with us, rather than combative. For example, we want to work with children’s charities to advise schools how to help disadvantaged families and ensure parents have access to good-quality uniform.

LT: How has the Association evolved since you last held the position of chair?

DB: We have become much more effective at getting our messages into the media, and in

persuading journalists that we are the voice of the industry. We have also opened up new lines of communication with the government, head teachers and children’s organisations.

LT: What was first on your agenda for the SA? DB: My predecessors have done a sterling job since 2011, so my first task has been to see that the work they have done continues. Beyond this, I wanted the SA to reach out to stakeholders and potential partners with similar interests and values, especially the wellbeing of children and education. That way, we can make a strong, concerted case for quality school uniform with less risk of being perceived as making the arguments for purely commercial reasons.

LT: What are the SA’s main challenges?

DB: There is still a lot to be done, including our continued work with schools and external bodies to communicate what we do, what we stand for, and the standards that schools and parents can expect from the specialist and professional members of the SA. I think the major challenge is one that we share with a lot of membership bodies, and that is lack of resources. We are entirely run by our volunteer members, with very little administrative support, so there are limits to how much time and energy we can all put into it.

LT: What campaigns has the Association been working on recently?

DB: Under the heading “Every child is worth it”, we have been communicating with government, schools, charities, parents, the media and everyone with an interest in school uniform, to make sure every child is properly clothed for school every day. Our campaign this summer has mainly focused on the value argument, backed up with independent research demonstrating the real cost of school uniform.

LT: What do you see as the biggest challenges currently facing the school-specific uniform sector, and how can the SA help combat them?

DB: The biggest challenge is the competition from supermarkets, which sell cheap alternative garments. The national media can also be a threat, dramatising the cost of school uniform and worrying parents. We have to persuade parents that their children are worth it, and make the case for quality and real value over price. We have to persuade schools that the right balance of specific and generic will bring all the benefits of a proper uniform. We have to persuade the DfE that it’s all about balance, too.

LT: Other than your appointment, what other changes have there been to the Board and Committee this year?

DB: We have a new vice chair, Christine Campbell, who is retired but has a wealth of

NAME: David Burgess JOB TITLE: Schoolwear Association chair and executive chairman at David Luke

retail experience that is invaluable, and Trudy Bryan, who is PA to the executive and the main communication channel, which is a major step forward. The Association also had some new members join at our AGM in March.

LT: What’s planned for this year’s annual Association fundraiser in October?

DB: This year we are having a Sunday Night Fever themed event. Think John Travolta, flares and disco lights. It’s taking place on Sunday 11 October and will be a fantastic night. Tickets are available through info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk, as are raffle tickets.

LT: Anything else in the pipeline for the remainder of 2015?

DB: We are currently putting together a definitive guide for head teachers and governors on how to specify school uniform to get maximum value and ensure inclusiveness.

At the same time, we are also trying to help reduce the waste and chaos that misinformed or late decisions can bring. We hope that this will further raise the profile of the SA and demonstrate to schools that we are here to help. The guide will include resources to help schools persuade parents of the value arguments and to understand the benefits of having dedicated suppliers stocking all-year-round in all shapes and sizes. And we will continue to campaign, lobby, inform and educate everyone with an interest in the subject about the importance of quality school-specific uniform.

OCTOBER 2015 - 66