L. Chapman L. Mason L. Fear
Trend Report A/W 16/17
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Johari Window & Manifesto
Creative Process
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Rustic Rebellion Fg. 5
Rugged warehouse and construction work defies polished, clean-cut design. Man-made synthetics decay to reveal distressed and stripped back textures. Fg. 1
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Brechtian basic staging
David Hassen, Artist
Reginald Van de Velde, Photographer
Cultural Inspiration Fg. 2
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Raymond Hains, Artist
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Splatters of paint across worn leather adds an industrial dimension. Chalk marks on shirts, wet spray paint across leather and scrubs of metal across fabrics creates raw, shredded stains. Clothing is tattered, nonchalant and details are designed haphazardly – no one jacket is the same.
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Marbled Grunge
Terracotta Roasted Coffee Cement Burnt Umber Sand Paper Fg. 4
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Menswear
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Coatings of coloured paint corroding away to reveal layers of forgotten eras beneath. Textures are shredded and peeled, surfaces blistered. The aging hues consist of burnt auburn and faded taupe, with flecks of metallic rust only captured under light reflection.
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Urban Neglect
Terracotta Roasted Coffee Cement Burnt Umber Sand Paper Fg. 3
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Print & Graphics
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Engineered Framework
Industrial structures reveal strips of metal, studio lighting and concrete plaster. Wooden framework appears as a skeleton of its unfinished construction, with unpolished, coarse timber upholstered by bolts. Fibreboard and scrap pieces of aluminium are prominent materials, with hanging structures supported by visible cables and chains.
Terracotta Roasted Coffee
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Cement Burnt Umber Sand Paper Fg. 3
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In-Store
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New Wave Minimalism Fg. 5
Bauhaus minimalism meets pop art shades. Monochrome, linear lines are sliced by block colours adding an architectural avantgarde dimension. Cubism is transferred to menswear with segments of rectangular colour projected onto tailored garments. Fg. 1
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Graphic Designer
Johannes Itten, Painter
Bauhaus - Clara Yee
Bauhaus - Scarlett R, Artist
Cultural Inspiration
Cubist Art Movement
Photographer
Matthias Heiderich
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Block Tailoring
Pops of colour are revealed in clean-cut precision and structured tailoring. Minimal surface texture adds a polished finish, any prints are oversized and appear to bluntly break at the edges of garments. Tailored trousers and rigid, architectural suit jackets will be key items within this trend.
Ultra-Marine Vermillion
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Citrus Inked Ash Fg. 4
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Menswear
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Following the Bauhaus and Cubism movement prints are blocked by strong structural lines and filled with splashes of saturated primary shades. Monochrome lines are bold, striking and asymmetrical. Colours are finished in either gloss or matt but ultimately smooth in surface.
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Bauhaus Revival
Ultra-Marine Vermillion Citrus Inked Ash Fg. 3
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Print & Graphics
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Geometric Form
Products are meticulously placed to form linear arrangements. Slices of primary hues are incorporated using beams of light, whilst large, blocked sculptures adds a Surrealist element. Hard, shiny surfaces and furniture pieces are constructed using PVC plastic and polished, patent metal, with hard, shiny surfaces being a dominant texture.
Ultra-Marine Vermillion
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Citrus Inked Ash Fg. 3
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In-Store
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Glam Rock Fg. 4
The shimmering glamour of 1970’s rock is recaptured with metallic co-ordinating suits, holographic print and embellished in-store design. Musical icons such as Blondie, Bowie and Bolan blurs the lines between masculine and feminine and adds a cool sex appeal. Fg. 1
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Marc Bolan
Cultural Inspiration
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The Runaways Film, 2010 Fg. 3
Labryrinth 1986
David Bowie
Blondie
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Metallic Fusion Tailored jackets with embellished prints are accompanied by fitted, leather trousers and strips of softer, juxtaposing fabrics of satin and velvet. Hair is tousled and garments are heavily accessorized.
Stardust Metallic Teal Sugared Lilac
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Deep Fossil Mint Sherbet Fg. 3
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Menswear
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Patent snakeskin, holographic shine and metallic shimmer adorn garments. Soft hues of diluted gold and taupe are injected with splashes of electric blues and mauve. Leading fabrics include fur, sequins and PVC.
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Electric Glamour
Stardust Metallic Teal Sugared Lilac Deep Fossil Mint Sherbet Fg. 3
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Print & Graphics
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Embellished Reflection Exaggerated shapes and glossy textures creates a luxurious feel. Liquid surfaces and reflective shapes are oversized and draped from ceilings to add a contemporary edge to its retro origins.
Stardust Metallic Teal Sugared Lilac
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Deep Fossil Mint Sherbet Fg. 3
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In-Store
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Universal Works Fg. 4
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Brand Essence
“Stylish in an understated yet confident way” “Dress Well, Live Well” “Good Connection locally”
“Soul reflects personality of the consumer” “Passion and a sense of humour”
UW Target Consumer
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Glam Rock Vm Mock up
Glam Rock VM Mock up
In-Store
Glam Rock Merchandise
Glam Rock Menswear
Team Work Reflection Johari Window made us realise our areas of strength, which we wouldn’t or noticed properly, haven’t not worked together before. From choosing the groups ourselves we found it a lot easier to voice our opinions as we weren’t afraid to disagree. Meeting up was easier as we were all available and committed to stay for the duration. To improve upon next time we need to track our images as we go along for referencing later.
List of Illustrations
Title Page Fg. 1 - 2 Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin Wall [Origional Photographs] Creative Process Fg. 1- 6 Chapman L, Fear L, Mason L, January 2015. Photograph manifesto [original photographs]
Berlin
Rustic Rebellion Fg. 1. Santos S, June 2014. The Dudes Factory [digital image] Available at http://berlinlovesyou.com/2014/06/24/let-boysboys-dudes-factory/ [Accessed 2nd March 2015] Fg. 2. Louise Damgaard, January 2014. Considering Raf Simmons x Sterling Ruby A/W 14 [digital image] Available at http:// www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/3331/considering-raf-simonsx-sterling-ruby-a-w14 [Accessed 27th February 2015] Fg. 3. Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin, light bulb [original photograph] Fg. 4. Mason L, January 2015. Berlin, metal rail [original photograph] Fg. 5. Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin, close up wood texture [original photograph] Rustic Cultural References Fg.1. Van de Velde, R. 2012 a. Verbotene Stadt (De) [Digital Image]. Available via: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ lenzz/15928489561/ [Date Accessed: Tuesday 3rd March 2015] Fg.2. Theatre Vertigo, 2012. Mother Courage [Digital Image]. Available via: http://www.orartswatch.org/mother-courage-adose-of-the-brecht-reality/ [Date Accessed: Tuesday 3rd March 2015] Fg.3. Kassan, D. 2014. Rust. [Oil on Canvas] Gallery Henoch [Online]. Available via: http://www.galleryhenoch.com/artists/ kassan/kassan_2.html [Date Accessed: Tuesday 3rd March 2015] Fg.4. Hains, R. 1949. Ach Alma Manétro. [Mixed Media] Find Art Info [Online]. Available via: http://media.findartinfo. com/images/artwork/2006/4/a000769899-001.jpg [Date Accessed: Tuesday 3rd March 2015] Fg.5. Van de Velde, R. 2012 b. She Came in Through the Bathroom Window [Digital Image]. Available via: https://www. flickr.com/photos/lenzz/9444068982/ [Date Accessed: Tuesday 3rd March 2015] Marbled Grunge Fg.1. Fear, L, January 2015. Berlin, paint stained jacket [original photograph] Fg.2. WGSN Active Team, December 2014, Active Megatrends A/W 16-17 - Artisan Fg.3. WGSN Catwalk gallery, 2015, Givenchy A/W 15 [digital image] Available at www.wgsn.com/catwalk_ gallery/#gender=1&season=71&city=0&show=17001 [Accessed 27th February 2015] Fg.4. Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin wall paint splat [original photograph]
Urban Fg.1. Fg.2. Fg.3. Fg.4.
Neglect Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin, paint dripping wall [original photograph] Mason L, January 2015. Berlin, Show and Order rustic wall [original photograph] Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin wall paint splat [original photograph] Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin textured building [original photograph]
Engineered Framework Fg.1. Mason L, January 2015. Berlin, metal stand [original photograph] Fg.2. © 2015 Design Milk™, 2015. Hanging light gems [digital image] Available at http://design-milk.com/diamonds-by-jspr/jspr-diamonds-light-02/ [Accessed 27th March 2015] Fg.3. Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin, Premium trade show menswear [original photograph] Fg.4. Mason L, January 2015. Berlin, Seek trade show menswear [original photograph] New Wave Minimalism Fg.1. Mason L, January 2015. Berlin, Red colour pop at Show & Order [original photograph] Fg.2. Retail Store Windows, April 2014. Hugo Boss London [digital image] Available at http:// www.retailstorewindows.com/2013/04/hugo-boss-london.html?utm_source=feedly&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+blogspot/qUQD+(Commercial+Interior+Design+%26+Visual+Merchandising) [Accessed 2nd March 2015] Fg.3. Maija Isola, March 2009. Keisarinkruunu [digital image] http://www.designluxe.jp/pages/user/search/?keyword=Maija+Isola [Accessed 27th February 2015] Fg.4. WGSN Catwalk Gallery, February 2015, Ovadia and Sons A/W 2015 [digital image] Available at www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=1&season=71&city=0&show=18231 Fg.5. Chapman L, January 2015. Berlin, black and white typography [original photograph]
Colour Block Cultural References Fg.1. Scarlett, R. 1935 [Oil on Canvas] Bauhaus. [Digital Image] Available via: http://fineartamerica.com/images/ pressreleaselogos/4634-Rolph%20Scarlett-Untitled%20(Grey%20 Circle)%204x6cmyk.jpg [Date Accessed: Tuesday 3rd March 2015] Fg.2. Heiderich, M. 2015. Spektrum Eins. Matthias-heidrich. [Digital Image]. Available via: http://www.matthias-heiderich. de/ [Date Accessed: 27th February 2015] Fg.3. Itten, J. 1944. [Oil on Canvas] Space Composition, 1 . [Digital Image] Available via: http://www.moma.org/collection/ browse_results.php?criteria=O:DE:M:3,5%7CA:YM:B:19401949%7CG:HI:E:1&page_number=281&template_id=1&sort_order=1 [Date Accessed: 3rd March 2015] Fg.4. Fedro, T. 2013. Just A Dream. [Digital Image] Available via: http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Thomas-C-Fedro/751/ArtPortfolio/Gallery/Cubist/Cubist-123-2424-W-Original-CubistArt-Just-A-Dream/732646/ [Date Accessed: 3rd March 2015] Fg.5. Clara Yee, 2012. Bauhaus: Art is Life. [Digital Image] Available via: http://anartworld.tumblr.com/ [Date Accessed: 3rd March 2015]
List of Illustrations
Block Tailoring Fg.1. WGSN Catwalk Gallery, February 2015, Thaddeus O’neill A/W 2015 [digital image] Available at www.wgsn.com/catwalk_ gallery/#gender=1&season=71&city=0&show=18086 [Accessed 2nd March 2015 Fg.2. WGSN Colour Team, May 2014. Colour direction men. A/W 16-17 OffBeat Fg.3. Mason L, January 2015. Berlin, Red colour pop at Show & Order [original photograph] Fg.4. Fear L, January 2015. Berlin, Show & Order black and white close up [original photograph]
Geometric Form Fg.1. Chapman L, January 2015, Berlin, Colour block visual merchandising at Premium tradeshow [original photograph] Fg.2. Chapman L, January 2015, Berlin, Red colour block mannequin at Premium tradeshow [original photograph] Fg.3. Windowswear, May 2013, Moncler [digital image] Available at https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/545287467353929844/ [Accessed 27th February 2015] Fg.4. Dover Street Market Ginza, July 2012, HTM Flyknit [digital image] Available at https:// twitter.com/DSMGINZACDG/status/228786095024926720/photo/1 [Accessed 27th February 2015]
Bauhaus Revival Fg.1. WGSN Colour Date, May 2014. Colour direction men. A/W 16-17 OffBeat Fg.2. Barbra Kastan, 1982. Construct [digital image] Available at http://barbarakasten.net/constructs/#12 [Accessed 1st March 2015] Fg.3. Mason L, January 2015, Berlin, Black and white linear blocks [original photograph] Fg.4. Chapman L, January 2015, Berlin, Black and white pattern, Bright trade show. [original photograph]
Glam Rock Fg.1. K.West, June 2002, David Bowie 1973 [digital image] Available at http://www.5years.com/ Gall10.htm [Accessed 2nd March 2015] Fg.2. Fear L, January 2015, Berlin, Foil close up at Show & Order [original photograph] Fg.3. Blondie, [digital image] Available at http://honeymoonmuse.tumblr.com/post/48127541499 [Accessed 1st March 2015] Fg. 4. Dvora, December 2012, Fenwicks Christmas window [digital photograph] Available at http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/favourites-of-vogue/2012/11/christmas-windows/gallery/888598 [Accessed 2nd March 2015] Fg.5. Fear L, January 2015, Blue glitzy sculpture at Premium tradeshow [original photograph]
Glam Rock Cultural Inspiration Fg.1. Super 70’s, 2013, Marc Bolan [digital image] Available at http://superseventies.tumblr.com/post/40213372558/designerfashion-clothes-shopping-sale-photography-trave [Accessed 3rd March 2015] Fg.2. Tumblr blogger, 2013, Queen [digital image] Available at http://istartedthisandcouldntfinish.tumblr.com/ post/61041443775/queen?crlt.pid=camp.0mLasPb8nqDy [Last accessed 3rd March 2015] Fg.3.Jorie, 2010, Cherie and Joan [digital image] Available at http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/joan-jett-and-cherie-curriein-the-runaways-movie/images/14863338/title/cherie-joan-photo [Last Accessed 4th March 2015] Fg.4. IMDB, 1986 film, Labyrinth David Bowie [digital image] Available at http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0091369/ [Accessed 4th March 2015] Fg.5. Dickensian Dandy, 2010, David Bowie [digital image] Available at http://dickensian-dandy.tumblr.com/page/134 [Accessed 4th March 2015] Metallic Fg.1. Fear L, January 2015, Berlin, Sparkle jacket close up [original photograph] Fg.2. Cracked, 2013, Marc Bolan [digital image] Available at http://www.cracked.com/funny-3396-marc-bolan/ [Accessed 4th March 2015] Fg.3. WGSN Catwalk Gallery, February 2015. Saint Laurent A/W 2015 [digital image] Available at www.wgsn.com/catwalk_ gallery/#gender=1&season=71&city=0&show=17146 [Accessed 4th March 2015] Fg.4. Dazed, January 2015, Saint Laurent A/W 15 [digital image] Available at http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ gallery/19177/16/saint-laurent-aw15 [Accessed 4th March 2015] Electric Glamour Fg.1. Delenda, 2014, Snakeskin texture [digital image] Available at http://imgfave.com/collection/280356/Patterns [Accessed 2nd march 2015] Fg.2. Dazed, January 2015, Saint Laurent A/W 15 [digital image] Available at http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ gallery/19177/16/saint-laurent-aw15 [Accessed 4th March 2015] Fg.3. Chapman L, January 2015, Berlin, Close up sparkle at Show & Order [original photograph] Fg.4. Chapman L, January 2015, Berlin, multicoloured fur [original photograph]
List of Illustrations Embellished Reflection Fg.1. Chapman, L. 2015. Berlin, Premium 8 Visual Merchandise. [Original Photograph] Fg.2. Chapman, L. 2015. Berlin, Bikini Berlin Visual Merchandise. [Original Photograph] Fg.3. Chapman, L. 2015. Berlin, Premium Metal Visual Merchandise. [Original Photograph] Fg.4. Espina, A. 2011, Tiffany and Co. Blogspot [Digital Image] Available via: http://visualagustina.blogspot.com.es/2011/10/tiffany-co.html [Date Accessed: 20th February 2015] Universal Works Fg.1. Universal Works, 2015. SS15 Lookbook [Digital Image]. Available via: http://www.universalworks.co.uk/collections-1 [Date Accessed: Friday 27th February 2015] Fg.2. Universal Works, 2015. Top Coat in Waxed Cotton - Available exclusively in our London stores. Instagram. [Digital Image]. Available via: https://instagram.com/p/xZA2myheDx/?modal=true [Date Accessed: Friday 27th February 2015] Fg.3. Universal Works, 2015. Hand finishing details - Workshop Denim Pop Up store - Tokyo 2015. Instagram. [Digital Image]. Available via: https://instagram.com/p/yZbHWGBeDg/?modal=true [Date Accessed: Friday 27th February 2015] Fg.4. Universal Works, 2015. Spring-Summer Collection. Universal Works. Available via: http:// www.universalworks.co.uk/collections-1 [Date Accessed: Friday 27th February 2015] UW Target Consumer Fg.1. Universal Works, 2014. Autumn Winter Lookbook 14. [Digital Image] Available at: https:// uk.pinterest.com/universalworks/autumn-winter-14-lookbook/ [Accessed: 5th March 2015] Fg.2. Universal Works, 2015. Universal Works People. [Digital Image] Available at: https:// uk.pinterest.com/universalworks/people-in-universal-works/ [Accessed: 5th March 2015] Fg.3. Radio 1, 2015. Radio 1 with Nick Grimshaw, [Digital Image] Available at: http://www. bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01mrh21 [Accessed: 5th March 2015]