Menswear The Manual 2 by Laura Merrigan

THE MANUAL #2

02 CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE

What’s new to Brown Thomas

New shoes and accessories, plus this season’s blues and stripes

DESPATCHES

elcome to the new issue of the BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR MAGAZINE, the spring style magazine that’s all about inspiring fresh thinking on your wardrobe. At Brown Thomas we translate the best of international style for our stores so it works for our customers. In a new season, it’s not necessarily about replacing what’s in your wardrobe, it’s about adding elements that make it look new. The Brown Thomas menswear buying team encourage its customers to look at things differently. Trying a simple update – a great new blazer or some well-cut jeans – will elevate a look to make it sharper, more modern. This approach is also a great way to ease yourself out of replenishment shopping mode and into being a little more adventurous with what you wear. As every guy is on the move now – cycling, running, in the gym before or after work – it’s no surprise that performance wear is having an impact on what we wear every day. We have introduced some great sportswearinspired looks that you’ll want to wear every day and we have weekend and holiday wardrobes covered too. Of course, whatever the occasion – and especially at work – tailoring hits the right note. As fit is a key focus, we have an extensive range of tailoring options from leading international brands, classic and contemporary. Our team is always delighted to help customers source particular items or help build a new look or a business or weekend wardrobe. For more details of our services in store – including Personal Shopping, Made to Measure and Made to Order services – see brownthomas.com. PAUL O’CONNOR GROUP BUYING DIRECTOR

SHOPPING

PROFILE

Irish actor Andrew Scott on what makes a good villain

28 20 THE LEADER OF THE PACK

Bringing continental cool to Savile Row tailoring

ALL IN A DAY’S WORK Classic tailoring with an individualist flair – how to make a work warbrobe work harder

38 THE GEOMETRY OF STYLE

Contemporary looks: clean lines and strong colours

DESIGN CONNECTIONS Irish design has international impact

MENSWEAR magazine is published by GLOSS PUBLICATIONS LTD, in association with Brown Thomas. PUBLISHER Jane McDonnell EDITOR Sarah McDonnell STYLE EDITOR Aislinn Coffey DESIGN Laura Merrigan FOR BROWN THOMAS: MARKETING DIRECTOR David Field MARKETING MANAGER Rachel Cunningham PRESS AND FASHION CO-ORDINATOR Darren Feeney GROUP BUYING DIRECTOR Paul O’Connor FASHION DIRECTOR Shelly Corkery CREATIVE DIRECTOR John Redmond STILL LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY Neil Hurley. The title and contents of MENSWEAR magazine is copyright of GLOSS PUBLICATIONS LTD and reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without written permission from the publishers. For details of Brown Thomas stores in Dublin, Cork, Limerick and Galway see www.brownthomas.com or call 01 605 6666. Brown Thomas has made every effort to ensure prices are correct at time of going to press. All items featured are subject to availability.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

THE BUSINESS PACK The essential checklist for a business trip

04 D E S P AT C H E S

CHECK LIST. PLAIN OR CHECK? Button-down or cutaway collar? Double or single cuff? Swedish shirtmakers ETON know how to make a good shirt. Expect a slick fusion of quality craftsmanship and individuality with a classic feel. QUALITY and DETAIL are the hallmark of every one of their wrinkle-free, slim or regular-fit and Made to Measure shirts. Look for a shirt that will stand the test of time; checks and ginghams look as good with a suit as with a pair of jeans. Eton is at the Dublin, Cork and Limerick stores, and coming soon to Galway.

A FRESH LOOK AT BARBOUR » WHO? British stalwart Barbour and Japanese brand White Mountaineering, a clothing company renowned for its imagination in combining design, utility and technology into its garments, have come together to produce a spring/summer 15 capsule collection. The result is the Barbour Beacon W Collection, inspired by Barbour’s maritime heritage and White Mountaineering’s attention to detail. WHAT? Imagine a traditional waxed cotton Barbour jacket, with a contemporary Japanese print. As well as jackets, shirts, T-shirts and shorts have all been given the print treatment. RESULT? This contemporary but subtle tweak lends a fashionable edge to Barbour's practical, robust designs.

KLEIN UP YOUR ACT.

Pair this great check shirt with a knit tie. Shirts from d129, by ETON.

ROM GUCCI TO TOM FORD, almost every designer sent denim down the runway. Ford paired denim jeans with a denim shirt, a classic navy blazer and smart leather boots. Invest in quality denim as it will survive the test of time. ARMANI JEANS could be just what your weekend wardrobe has been missing – make sure they're dark to-mid- washed and slim or straight-legged. Just because you're winding down, doesn't mean you shouldn't dress up. WEAR WITH a well-cut knit polo shirt and suede loafers. With polo shirts a strong spring trend, there’s no shortage of options this season, in varied stripes and with contrast-collar details. Wear buttoned up.

MADE FOR YOU.

The king of pop's dream job Following in the footsteps of Jamie Dornan and Mark Wahlberg, a heavilytattooed JUSTIN BIEBER has been unveiled as the new face of Calvin Klein’s campaign #MY CALVINS (alongside gap-toothed supermodel Lara Stone). It is said Bieber spent months in training with boxer FLOYD MAYWEATHER to build up his torso and hone his six-pack. The collection includes classic cotton trunks in white, black navy and blue and briefs in black and white.

The Made to Measure appointment-only service is now a month-long event in store (in spring and autumn). Expert tailors from Zegna, Canali, Corneliani and Dolce & Gabbana take your measurements, suggest a design and help you select luxe fabrics for suits and shirting. For your convenience our Made to Order is available all-year-round in the Dublin store. Customise your suit by choosing from a vast range fabrics, buttons and linings. To book an appointment for the next Made to Measure event, or to arrange a Made to Order appointment, call 01 617 1161.

THE EDIT 01 Block detail polo shirt, d110, by PAUL SMITH. 02 Mid-blue J21 regular fit denim jeans, d145, by ARMANI JEANS. 03 Dark-wash J10 extra-slim denim jeans, d155, by ARMANI JEANS.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

06 D E S P AT C H E S

Indigo Thin Finn denim jeans, d110, by Nudie.

Spray-print hoodie, d545, by Balenciaga.

NEW ARRIVALS:

BRIGHT & BOOKISH.

Three brands to watch out for

nspired by the late English novelist and travel writer Bruce Chatwin, Burberry’s spring/summer collection is called “Book Covers & Bruce Chatwin” and features original illustrations and typographic prints that take their creative lead from vintage book covers. Artworks were designed and painted in-house and printed onto cashmere, cotton and leather: Burberry boss Christopher Bailey sent his troops down the runway in weathered tones of orangey red, storm blue and saffron yellow, making his show one of the most exciting to watch. Burberry Brit and Burberry London are at Brown Thomas Dublin.

01 The DUBLIN store is ramping up its designerwear offering. Luxury brand BALENCIAGA, under the creative direction of influential New York designer Alexander Wang, is known for a clean, modern aesthetic with strong shapes and directional cuts. 02 TED BAKER, the label designed to redefine your everyday uniform, expands its space in the LIMERICK store this summer. 03 The newest outpost for cult label NUDIE JEANS is CORK. The Swedish denim label has just landed, with a good range of well-fitting organic denim, including the transformative slim-fitting Thinn Finn style. Most radical of all? The Nudie design team recommends not washing jeans for six months.

STYLE ON SUNDAY.

he perfect weekend for the style-conscious man might just take in a luxury overnight stay for two in THE WESTBURY, a delicious full Irish breakfast in Wilde, The Restaurant, followed by a short stroll to Brown Thomas where a Menswear Personal Shopper will help sort your new-season wardrobe or help choose a new suit or outfit for that special occasion. So civilised. Complimentary wifi and carparking included. From d180; book by calling The Westbury on 01 679 1122.

MICHAEL KORS takes super-wearable classics and gives them an upgrade. Think great cotton jackets, blazers, chinos, sweaters and tops. Look out for the smart overnight bags too (d499).

ESPRESS YOURSELF »

SHARPENING UP. HUGO BOSS has been announced as the team partner of the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One team, designing their high-performance teamwear as well as their official casual and formalwear clothing. After 33 years of dressing the McLaren team, HUGO BOSS turns a new page and start a fresh chapter in Formula One history. For more information, check out brownthomas.com.

Tiger of Sweden's first ever show at London Collections: Men looked at cult 1970s film The Warriors for inspiration. The dominant silhouette this season is SLIM, SHARP and STRONG. Blazers are cut short and paired with slim-cut trousers. This collection won't fail to make a dashing impression.

Two design icons – Nespresso and KitchenAid – have joined forces to create a new espresso machine that promises the perfect cup of coffee in just 25 seconds, whether you prefer a ristretto, espresso or a lungo. The Nespresso by KitchenAid Machine combines Nespresso’s expertise in sourcing the highest quality coffees and delivering an exceptional coffee experience and KitchenAid’s timeless design aesthetic and knowhow. From €379 for the nonmilk version and €439 for the milk version with Aeroccino.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

pa u l s m i t h . c o . u k

08 SHOPPING

THE MANUAL #1 ACCESSORIES Smart accessories for business travel 01 Black textured leather travel wallet, d335, by DOLCE & GABBANA. 02 Black Intrecciato leather iPad mini case, d550, by BOTTEGA VENETA. 03 Black leather document holder, d595, by ALEXANDER MC QUEEN. 04 Black leather briefcase, d895, by DOLCE & GABBANA. 05 Purple silk mix knitted tie, d155, by TOM FORD. 06 Purple and white silk mix knitted tie, d100, by HUGO BOSS. 07 Black leather weekend bag, d499, by MICHAEL KORS. 08 Black leather loafers, d250, by PAUL SMITH.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

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04 03

THE MANUAL #2 BLUE Blue is always elegant 01 Cobalt blue leather driving shoes, d350, by GUCCI. 02 Blue suede bomber jacket, d2,330, by GIEVES & HAWKES; white cotton shirt, d155, by CANALI. 03 Violet check cotton shirt, d395, by TOM FORD; blue and white polka-dot tie, d100, by CANALI. 04 Cobalt blue slubbed-linen jacket, d905, by CANALI; blue and nude silk pocket square, d70, by PAUL SMITH. 05 Brown Intrecciato leather belt, d400, by BOTTEGA VENETA; dark blue and grey cuffed-hem flannel trousers with leather trim, d425, by BRIONI.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

12 SHOPPING

THE MANUAL 01

#3 TRAINERS Smart in black, white, grey or blue

01 Butterfly-print leather skater shoes, d550, by GIVENCHY. 02 Grey cracked-leather toe-cap sneakers, d410, by LANVIN. 03 White leather sneakers with green suede trim, d450, by GUCCI. 04 White crocodile-print leather high-top sneakers with zip details, d570, by GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI. 05 Blue mesh and suede Rockrunner sneakers, d390, by VALENTINO. 06 Black Russell leather high-top sneakers, d590, by TOM FORD. 07 White Arena leather high-top sneakers, d415, by BALENCIAGA.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

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04 06 05

03 07

THE MANUAL #4 SHOES One pair suits every occasion 01 Brown leather Cavendish tasselled loafers, d470, by CROCKETT & JONES. 02 Brown leather two-tone loafers, d695, by GUCCI. 03 Dark brown suede Tetbury boots, d399, by CROCKETT & JONES. 04 Black leather Angus wing-cap shoes, d280, by GRENSON. 05 Tan leather Pembroke Derby shoes, d500, by CROCKETT & JONES. 06 Black leather wing-cap Oxford shoes, d420, by STEMAR. 07 Brown leather double monk-strap shoes, d500, by CROCKETT & JONES.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

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05 02

THE MANUAL

#5 STRIPES Casual wear with a sporty vibe 01 Navy wool-blend varsity jacket with leather trim, d1,490, by SAINT LAURENT. 02 Grey stripe cotton-piquĂŠ polo shirt with paisley panel, d380, by GIVENCHY. 03 White leather sneakers with maroon stripe, d450, by VALENTINO. 04 Grey jersey satin-trimmed sweatpants, d485, by DOLCE & GABBANA. 05 Blue and white stripe cotton T-shirt, d125, by BURBERRY BRIT. 06 Navy and white stripe cashmere crew-neck sweater, d750, by SAINT LAURENT.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

PROFILE

GREAT SCOTT Andrew Scott was the villain we loved to hate in Sherlock. Now he’s in the upcoming Bond movie, Spectre. But will his new character Denbigh stay good or go bad?

SIMON LIPMAN / THELICENSINGPROJECT.COM SIMON LIPMAN / THELICENSINGPROJECT.COM

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

ntil recently, Andrew Scott could is that he can be right in front of you, hiding in pass by unrecognised. Now the plain sight. There’s an audacity about that.” Dublin-born actor has landed a role Given Scott’s prowess at playing a villain, in 2015’s Bond film, Spectre, that when it emerged that he would star in the new could be about to change. How does it feel to Bond film, it was immediately presumed he go from Churchtown (in Dublin’s suburbs) to would play the baddie opposite Daniel Craig’s Bondtown? “Extraordinary,” he confesses. Bond. When the official announcement came, Not that the 38-year-old actor has had it easy. however, it emerged that Scott’s role in Spectre Scott admits he’s always had a “healthy obsession” would be Denbigh – a member of M15, and thus with acting. Having spent his south Dublin on Bond’s side. But rumours still circulate that childhood attending acting classes, Scott studied the character will have a twist, and Scott will SMILE AND BE A VILLAIN: Scott’s depiction of anti-hero Moriarty drama at Trinity College Dublin, then became once again play the villain he depicts so well. in Sherlock earned the Dublin-born actor a BAFTA. involved with the Abbey Theatre, clocking up some Scott remains tight-lipped about his role impressive roles. One of these saw him work with Spectre director Sam Mendes – “a (“he’s a member of the Intelligence – that’s all I can say”), but insists he won’t total genius”, he gushes – on Broadway production The Vertical Hour, in which he be typecast. “I used to think I’d love to play the villain, but I was always cast starred alongside Julianne Moore (in her Broadway debut) and Bill Nighy. as the cherubic innocent type,” he says. “Post-Moriarty, the challenge is not to So Scott laid the groundwork with a gruelling stage career and roles in The play villains. I’ve been asked to play a lot of similar roles to Moriarty, but if you Hour and John Adams. He even appeared in Band of Brothers, the ten-part don’t want to just play villains, you say no. You look for different things, or think miniseries which also featured Simon Pegg, Tom Hardy, Michael Fassbender about them differently.” and James McAvoy, four now very famous faces who at the time were complete Scott’s thirst for diversity in his roles is evident, in film as well as theatre. unknowns. As Private John “Cowboy” Hall, he was the first to fall under the More recently, he has mixed independent Irish films with international films direct command of Lieutenant Richard Winters, played by Damian Lewis. But such as Lennon Naked (in which he played Paul McCartney). This time last it was his role as the villainous Professor James Moriarty in the BBC’s Sherlock year, he starred in The Stag, John Butler’s drama/comedy about a metrosexual that first brought Scott to wider public attention. He won a BAFTA for the part Irishman who doesn’t want a stag party, but is given one anyway. “Playing David – his biggest award to date – and Ryan Tubridy introduced him on The Late Late was great,” Scott says about his role. “It was nice to read a script where I knew Show as “very possibly the best on-screen baddie I have ever seen on television”. those kind of Dublin guys. It was a world that I recognised … It’s about male “People had an instant affection for [Sherlock] from the first episode,” Scott friendship but it’s also about people who, like me, dread the thought of going explains. “The reaction was extraordinary.” This “extraordinary” reaction on stags.” The Stag received a warm reception in Toronto, where it premiered, includes his rapid accumulation of a loyal fanbase – legend has it Scott’s followers and then was chosen to close the Jameson Dublin International Film Festival are particularly cultish, not unlike those of his co-star, Benedict Cumberbatch. last year. Scott describes his fans, fittingly, as having “a bit of a dark edge”, but protests Scott has also started to express an interest in fashion. He was spotted at several they’re not as intense as some reports claim. “There’s this impression that the shows during London Collections: Men (the menswear version of London Fashion fans are crazy, but they’re not, they’re very respectful,” he says. “I get a lot of fan Week) in January. Perhaps he has a reputation to live up to now that he’s played the mail. I’ve been sent love letters and art. Mostly it’s very moving and creative.” immaculately tailored Moriarty – all tailored pinstripes – and now Bond character, It seems like, in playing the bad guy, Scott finally found Denbigh, who sounds just as stylish. “I’ve got some really his niche. So what makes Moriarty such a good villain? beautiful stuff to wear in Spectre … Bond is such an English “He came as a real surprise to people,” the actor says. “He brand – I’m going to be wearing Burberry.” doesn’t do the conventional villain thing. He’s witty and But despite these glamorous perks of his newfound people like that.” Anyone who has watched Sherlock will celebrity status, Scott insists it’s his enthusiasm for understand what Scott means. The Dubliner approaches acting that drives him. This is why he’d rather take on a the role of Moriarty with a charismatically light touch – challenge than repeat the success of Moriarty. “Of course, he blows raspberries and has The Bee Gees’ Staying Alive it’s nice to get a big cheque,” he says, “but why not do set as his ringtone. It’s a playful reinterpretation of Arthur something of value? To do all these different things is Conan Doyle’s scheming character, but Scott’s Moriarty is a dream for me.” Villain or no villain, it sounds like the no less capable of evil, when the whim takes him. “He’s very dream is coming true. ^ Spectre is released in cinemas mercurial,” Scott adds. “What’s really scary about Moriarty nationwide on November 9.

“What’s really scary about Moriarty is that he can be right in front of you, hiding in plain sight. There’s an audacity about that.”

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

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ALL IN A DAY’S WORK INVEST IN TAILORING THAT IS BOTH CLASSIC AND VERSATILE Photographed by Neil Gavin Styled by Way Perry

A SPRING COAT Navy wool two-button suit, d2,700; light blue cotton shirt, d395, both by Tom Ford. Blue wool tie, d105, by Drake’s London. Navy silk polka-dot pocket square, d125, by Tom Ford. Dusty blue silk and cotton reversible car coat, d2,230, by Brioni. See our shoot come alive. Watch the video on www.brownthomas.com.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | AUTUMN 2015

CHECK MATE Light blue check wool suit, d1,010, by Armani. Light blue cotton shirt, d195, by Ermenegildo Zegna. Navy polka-dot silk tie, d170, by Tom Ford. Navy silk pocket square, d40, by Eton. Navy fine-gauge wool socks, d15, by Falke. Black leather monk-strap shoes, d515, by Churchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

SHARP CASUAL Violet check wool blazer, d830, by Canali. Navy cotton shirt, d185, by Truzzi. Navy silk mix knitted tie, d155, by Tom Ford. White cotton chinos, d215, by Gieves & Hawkes. Leather belt, d85, by Hugo Boss. Macbook Air, d929, by Apple. Black fountain pen, d485, by Montblanc.

NAVY BASE Navy check wool blazer, d1,295, by Alexander Mc Queen. White cotton shirt, d450, by Alexander Mc Queen. Navy polka-dot silk tie, d170, by Tom Ford. Beige cotton chinos, d425, by Corneliani. Navy Intrecciato leather belt, d400, by Bottega Veneta.

NEUTRAL BALANCE Oatmeal cotton and linen blazer, d860, by Canali. Blue and white pinstripe cotton shirt, d185, by Paul Smith. White cotton chinos, d185, by Canali. Light blue silk tie, d80; blue cotton pocket square, d20; both by Eton. Black leather loafers, d495, by Prada.

SHARP SHARPLINES LINES NavyNavy double-breasted woolwool blazer, d730; navynavy woolwool trousers, d245; bothboth by Gieves & Hawkes. PinkPink cotton double-breasted blazer, d730; trousers, d245; by Gieves & Hawkes. cotton GreyGrey Intrecciato woventwilltwill shirt,shirt, d135, by Smith & Gibson. White silk pocket square, d60, by Drake’s London. Intrecciato wovend135, by Smith & Gibson. White silk pocket square, d60, by Drake’s London. Veneta. Brown suede monk-strap shoes, d270, by Barker. leather briefcase, d1,980, by Bottega Veneta. Brown suede monk-strap shoes, d270, by Barker. leather briefcase, d1,980, by Bottega

EASY ELEGANCE Blue wooltwo-button slim-fit suit, d930, by Paul Smith. White cotton shirt, d105, by Smyth & Gibson. Blue wool tie, d80, by Eton. Navy and white silk pocket square, d75, by Ermenegildo Zegna. Black Intrecciato woven-leather overnight bag, d2,250, by Bottega Veneta. Shot on location at the Cobblestone Building, designed by RKD Architects.

TA I L O R I N G

THE LEADER OF THE PACK At Number 1 Savile Row, Gieves & Hawkes’ cool American creative director Jason Basmajian is shaking things up. Godfrey Deeny reports

here was a telling moment during the latest London’s menswear season when a group of us senior editors and critics began comparing notes at a suave dinner. What, we wondered, was the single musthave look from the London shows, something that really set a brand apart? And a straw poll produced the following winner, a remarkable slate gray alpaca topcoat by Gieves & Hawkes, where the herringbone was not made in the weave but cut out in subtle degradations. It was the ultimate in men’s couture, and a great statement about how Gieves’ Chief Creative Director Jason Basmajian is revolutionising the most storied brand on London’s Savile Row – tailors to everyone from Lord Nelson to Sean Connery to David Beckham and Prince William. Gieves still dresses scores of generals, with mess jackets costing just a few hundred less than the starting price for bespoke suits. Boston-born Basmajian recalls his excitement at taking over the 243-year-old brand with its unique heritage and military associations at the beginning of 2013. But Basmajian, who has run fashion labels in Milan, New York and Paris, freely admits that the product when he arrived was, “uninspired, dusty – just a navy blue suit brand.” He’s now busy rewriting the rules at Gieves & Hawkes. His goal? “I want an international language with a British accent. Not a degree of what is Brit. Definitely not a Savile Row pastiche.” Since taking over, he has reworked all the tailoring blocks and brought in fresh sportswear accessories and shoe ideas, backed by Gieves deeppocketed owners, Hong Kong Li & Fung Group, which controls a half dozen noted European brands including Sonia Rykiel, Hardy Amies and Cerruti. “No 1 Savile Row is arguably the most important men’s fashion destination in the world,” notes Basmajian. And London Collections: Men (the name of London’s menswear week), with receptions hosted by Prince Charles and Samantha Cameron at 10 Downing Street for visiting editors and buyers,

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

A RICH SEAM: Above: Tailored suits feature grey – paler shades blended with sand and ivory, darker twisted with navy to add a graphic and modern edge – as well as black and beige. Styling highlights feature tonal dress shirts and knitted ties. Left: Exceptional fabrics are at the heart of the Savile Row tradition. Opposite: Jason Basmajian has brought his Italian experience to the house.

is beginning to have the historic draw of Milan and Paris. “There is not a guy in the world who does not want to feel younger, thinner and more handsome and I want guys to feel all those things when they wear Gieves. Most of our customers dress pretty well. What they are looking for is the next step forward. Gieves is not a trend brand but about timeless elegance. We’ve already had the father, now I want to sell to the son,” says Basmajian. He took the radical step of staging Gieves’ presentations this January at Christies auction house; last season he used The White Cube Gallery, famed for representing Damien Hirst. Both spaces allowed him to better display the cleaner contemporary colours and minimalist mood, with models standing on plinths looking like well-dressed sculptures. “Up close and personal takes the experience of fashion up to luxury.” It was an impressive display. The feel of the clothes was stunning. Whether alpaca jackets, black ponyskin topcoats or midnight indigo shearlings, the pieces were exceptional, cut with a slightly roomier cut, and boasting a Film Noir inspiration. In a break with tradition, he did not feature a single white shirt. Models wore leather sneakers and lug-soled shoes. “The Gieves guy is very proud

to be successful. He’s 30, got the girl and the right car and house. Ours is power play in a cooler way. It’s not navy any more, its black, grey and plum. A little bit harder.” Basmajian also radically overhauled the whole shopping experience at the London boutique, setting up displays of the house’s unique archive and building a bar for customers, for what he calls a “modern men’s club and brand experience”. Most notably, Basmajian has positioned Gieves as an international label, no longer competing with its venerable neighbours but with global brands. “I no longer look out my front door on Savile Row. I look abroad. The world of Gieves & Hawkes is a very masculine universe, about luxury, not pretension.

“There is not a guy in the world who does not want to feel younger, thinner and more handsome and I want guys to feel all those things when they wear Gieves.”

Tom Ford, for instance, is very 1970s and Hollywood, but Gieves is a little bit more understated. Nor is our customer a Zegna or Corneliani guy. Our personality is different.” The new international dimension dovetails perfectly with Gieves’ new expansion, with openings in just a few prestige department stores: Begrdorf Goodman, Isetan in Japan, Le Bon Marché in Paris and Brown Thomas in Dublin. Basmajian is very happy the collection is now available at Brown Thomas Dublin. “It captures exactly what we are trying to do; the sense that Gieves contains, under one roof, bespoke, military and a full ready-to-wear collection.” Basmajian’s great realisation came in Italy (where he worked at Brioni) when he saw in action the industry adage that “the Italians do English better than the Brits. English style is very strict; while what the Italians do so well is make it essential and sexy.” With this idea informing his work, the result is a more tactile, softer and sexier Gieves. “It is a sort of a natural coming home. What I did in Italy was based in design on Savile Row. What we are doing at Gieves & Hawkes is adding a continental touch.” And the years of experience are paying off. “The older I get the better I do my job,” says Basmajian. ^

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

STYLE

“I LIKE A MAN WHO ...” We canvass women on men’s style

Lou Doillon

Victoria Beckham

“I don’t like men who look after themselves too much. I do like it when they’re NOT WEARING ANYTHING.”

“He always knows how to dress – that was part of HIS APPEAL originally.”

the replenishment shopping trap, buying the same thing over and over, looking samey no matter the season. “Men can be a bit oblivious, believing their look won’t date,” says O’Connor, “and they are amazed that a simple wardrobe update can make them look smarter, even younger.” Fit is another giveaway. If your suit fits right, and the cut is right, you might be Mr Right. If it’s too tight, too baggy, or just wrong for your shape, it’s a big turn-off. And keeping your wardrobe fresh – literally – is vital. Every season, new plain white T-shirts and shirts are a must. A beat-up motorcycle jacket is irresistible to women, as is that expensive button-down shirt that’s been worn and softened to the point she wants to wear it to bed.

All but the least observant female notices what a man wears, running through a mental checklist of the all-important criteria. Women like outfit-appropriate footwear. It’s worth buying a few good pairs of shoes. And there’s nothing smarter than a great watch; nothing worse than a showy or gimmicky one. Confidence plays a part too. Brown Thomas buyer Aimee Doyle likes a man who “wears what he wants, who’s brave enough to follow his own style rules and wear his clothes with confidence”. Whatever most women feel about a man’s look being just part of his appeal, for those women who really can’t live with their man’s fashion faux pas, it won’t matter what else he has going for him: one false move can ruin a promising relationship. ^

Christina Hendricks “He had amazing HAIR and was all dishevelled. He was running late and everyone was waiting for him. He just came in with this very high energy.”

Kate Moss “His JACKET.”

Catherine Deneuve “Probably CUFF LINKS. I like a man who wears cuff links.”

Rachel Bilson “It’s always the SHOES. I like vintage shoes.”

Rose gold round stamp cuff links, d130, by Lanvin.

Salma Hayek “ ... MOVES EASILY in his clothes. They can’t be too stiff.”

Carine Roitfeld

ANNA BAUER

“The true test of a man’s style is his HAIRCUT.”

t’s a well-known fact that women like men who dress like men. An air of macho nonchalance is all part of their sex appeal. Women prefer a mildly over-conﬁdent attitude rather than total trend-following. Women are wary of peacocks who seem obsessed with how they look, or those men who spend unwisely on clothes that are off the mark in terms of how they live or what they do for a living. It signals not-so-attractive traits that might apply to other aspects of their character. So a woman likes a man who dresses well and takes care of himself but

Angelina Jolie “I like a man’s ass. There’s something sexy about a man in TIGHT PANTS and a beaten-up T-shirt.”

emphatically not one who strays into the zone of self-worship and spends more time in front of the mirror than she does. But, how to ﬁnd the right balance? Choosing one great piece that says something, with everything else playing a supporting role, makes for a sharper look than head-to-toe trend following, and is much more attractive to women, according to Brown Thomas Group Buying Director, Paul O’Connor. “A great new-season blazer will elevate your usual look to make it modern, and it’s a great way to ease yourself into being a little more adventurous with what you buy.” Most women agree that men fall

Katie Holmes “Cool jeans and cool T-SHIRTS.”

Miuccia Prada “For men I like the plain top, the PLAIN SUIT.”

Jenna Lyons “SHOES. If the toe is square, I’m out.”

MAN TO MAN TOM FORD DESIGNER “I sound like an old man, but we’ve lost manners. I didn’t grow up in wealthy family. But we knew the rules. We knew that an afternoon wedding was a daytime suit, that black shoes were worn with blue suits and brown shoes with grey.”

CHRISTOPHER BAILEY

CHIEF CREATOR AND CEO, BURBERRY “I don’t love it when fashion becomes really uptight, when it all becomes kind of studied. I love a trench coat because it just relaxes everything a little bit.”

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

White cotton T-shirt, d320, by Givenchy.

Donna Karan “Every man should have SEVEN EASY PIECES: a great pair of black pants, great jacket, white shirt, cashmere sweater, jeans and a leather jacket ...”

MAN to MAN PAUL SURRIDGE

CREATIVE DIRECTOR, Z ZEGNA “Less is more. I find reducing the look down to the essentials helps modernise traditional menswear. For me, summer is navy. I love a sharp, crisp navy or sapphire blue.”

GIORGIO ARMANI designer

PAUL SMITH designer

TOMAS MAIER creative director,

“When choosing a suit, look for something that you can wear, and not something that will wear you. A two-button suit is more timeless than a three- or a one-button. A single-breasted is more versatile than double.”

“Because I wear a suit every day, my suits are custom-made. They are comfortable and move with me. One of the biggest mistakes men make is wearing T-shirts, but most guys need to have a collar around their neck for height.”

“What’s essential in a man’s wardrobe? The jacket. I like a structured jacket. It helps you control your weight issues—if you go to button it and it doesn’t fit, you know to lay off the dessert. ”

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

bottega veneta

35 PERSONAL SHOPPING

WARDROBE TROUBLESHOOTING Three time-saving ways Brown Thomas can help you out in a (wardrobe) crisis

1. WHEN TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE EXPERT ADVICE FROM PERSONAL SHOPPERS

SMYTH & GIBSON SHIRTS HANDMADE IN DERRY E X C L U S I V E LY AT B R O W N T H O M A S

aking the time to pull together a work wardrobe can seem like a luxury you can’t afford. But the trick is to shop smarter, not for longer. Richard Gavin, 36, first began using the Personal Shopping service to simplify his busy schedule. “My job involves long hours, so I didn’t want to spend my weekends off thinking about work as well – and that includes what I wear to it.” Gavin says. “I like the idea of having other people do the work, at least when it comes to shopping.” At Gavin’s initial meeting at Brown Thomas, his measurements were taken and preferences discussed, so the Personal Shopping team could begin to build a core collection of shirts, ties and shoes – classic items that would form the backbone of his workday wardrobe. “I was looking for clothes that I could mix and match every day without thinking.” The team even sourced the right socks and underwear. “It made getting dressed in the morning a completely stress-free experience,” says Gavin, noting that communication with the team is now almost entirely by text or email, which suits him best. “I tend to contact them whenever I have an important pitch or work trip coming up and I want a confidence boost,” Gavin says. After a couple of questions, they’ll mail over some options, with photographs attached. When Gavin makes a decision, the clothes are packed and delivered to his office. Now that Gavin has built up a workday wardrobe he is happy with, he uses the Personal Shopping service for his weekend wardrobe too – and for special events like holidays or weddings. As the team build up an understanding of what he likes,

EXCLUSIVELY YOURS: The Personal Shopping Room at Brown Thomas Dublin.

they are also able to contact him with suggestions when fresh items come into store, suggesting stock that will complement his previous purchases. And they also take care of gift-buying and delivery. “Using the Personal Shopping team is definitely one of the smarter decisions I’ve made,” Gavin admits. “I expected to only use the service once or twice – but I’ve adopted it wholeheartedly. When I have to buy anything now, they’re the first people I call.”

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

36 PERSONAL SHOPPING

added visibility, I wanted to be confident my clothes weren’t letting me down.” In an informal consultation, Ryan outlined his new requirements with the Personal Shopping team, as well as talking through the styles he liked. Equipped with a good understanding of his new role, the team was able to help Ryan choose the perfect made-to-measure suit that would reflect the prestige of his new position, but still sit comfortably within his existing wardrobe. “In a transition period like this, it’s good to know you’re sending the right messages with your clothes,” Ryan adds. He also opted for an additional lightweight suit that could be easily packed for trips abroad, as his new role also included more travel. “The shopping team understood my needs and were able to make suggestions very quickly,” recalls Ryan. “I’ve since gone back to them for help with clothes for important events and black-tie dinners. I know I’m in safe hands now.”

3. EVENINGWEAR S.O.S. A WARDROBE CRISIS IS AVERTED

I 2. A CHANGE FOR THE BETTER A CUSTOMISED SERVICE FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS

veryone remembers their first serious job – and most likely, the first suit they bought to commemorate it. It’s not the only professional milestone that warrants a wardrobe update, though. “When I was promoted to a more senior role, I knew it was important that my wardrobe reflected the additional responsibility that came with it,” says Jonathan Ryan. “My new role also involved addressing conferences, so with the

t’s a nightmare situation. You’ve travelled for a black-tie event, and have had your evening attire planned, pressed and packed well in advance. Then on landing, you learn the airline has lost your luggage, leaving you high and dry with no time to shop for replacement eveningwear. Flying to Dublin for an important dinner late last year, Kenneth Stafford found himself in exactly this position. “I knew I wouldn’t have enough time to shop for a whole new outfit, as I had meetings all day. A friend suggested I call the Brown Thomas Personal Shopping service,” Stafford recalls. “The team were very calm and capable. They asked me to describe the items in the missing case, including brands and sizes, so they could begin sourcing similar items.” After this quick phone call, Stafford was able to resume his day as planned while the shopping team pulled together a selection of suits, shirts, bow ties and shoes. Stafford then dropped into the Personal Shopping room at Brown Thomas to try on the items. “After trying on their selection, I went back to work, knowing the situation was under control.” For Stafford it was a full new outfit, but the team can also help with smaller requests – a forgotten tie or pair of cuff links, for example, or more general suiting. If alterations are required, there is an Ermenegildo Zegna-trained tailor on hand to shorten jacket sleeves or trouser legs. Items are pressed, so they are pristine and ready to go. “The outfit I finished up with was even smarter than the one I lost – this time, I picked up the right finishing touches, like patent shoes and silk evening socks,” Stafford remembers. He also opted for a Tom Ford ready-made bow tie. “It’s slightly imperfect-looking, which makes it all the more believable. After my long day, it seemed best to go with the most stress-free option!” ^

SERVICE YOU CAN’T BUY

AT YOUR SERVICE.

MADE TO MEASURE.

FINISHING TOUCHES.

COMPLIMENTARY personal shopping EXPERT ADVICE from personal shoppers PRE-SELECTED rail of clothes if you are in a hurry

CUSTOMISED service for special occasions APPOINTMENTS with master tailors ONE-TO-ONE consultations

SHOES AND ACCESSORIES selected for you DELIVERY to home or office GIFT inspiration with delivery arranged

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

belstaff.com

perfect-fitting suit in your choice of style and fabric in a luxurious, relaxing space. Our team, led by Ann Finn and Jeff Thompson, would be delighted to talk through your requirements and arrange a convenient appointment in store. To book a Personal Shopping appointment, call Brown Thomas Dublin on 01 617 1161; Limerick on 061 417 222; or Cork on 021 480 5555.

TRUNK ARCHIVE

Brown Thomas Personal Shopping offers an effortless, discreet and luxurious way to shop for just one item or for a whole wardrobe. Our experienced team of Personal Shoppers can find you the perfect look for any event, refresh your wardrobe, or help with selecting corporate or personal gifting. You can also experience our Made to Measure and Made to Order services to find the

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THE GEOMETRY OF STYLE RAZOR-SHARP LINES, SLIM SILHOUETTES, THIS SPRINGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS ARE ON POINT Photographed by Neil Gavin Styled by Way Perry

Opposite: Blue cotton two-button jacket, d850, by Burberry London. Navy cotton-blend box-fit polo shirt, d870, by Valentino. Navy wool cuffed-leg trousers, d365, by Paul Smith. Black leather croc-effect toe-cap trainers, d325, by Lanvin. Grey ribbed cotton socks, d18, by Falke. See our shoot come alive. Watch the video on www.brownthomas.com.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | AUTUMN 2015

Navy silk and leather two-tone bomber jacket, d1,450, by Paul Smith. White cotton shirt, d130, by Smyth & Gibson. Grey cotton side-stripe jogging trousers, d485, by Dolce & Gabbana. Black suede skater sneakers, d420, by Prada Sport. Grey ribbed cotton socks, d18, by Falke.

Black wool-mix two-button jacket, d1,445, by Balenciaga. Black and grey cotton two-tone sweater, d240, by Paul Smith. Black cotton-mix jogging trousers with zips, d295, by MCQ by Alexander McQueen. White leather trainers, d395, by Gucci.

THE PEACOAT Violet and lilac check cotton shirt, d300; tobacco doublebreasted wool coat, d1,790; both by Gucci. White and grey crew-neck wool sweater, d300, by Belstaff.

Navy brushed-wool plaid bomber jacket, d1,175, by Alexander McQueen. White cotton button-down shirt, d130, by Smyth & Gibson.

Navy suede bomber jacket, d1,675, by DSquared. Navy cotton cuffed-leg trousers, d285, by Kenzo. White cotton shirt, d130, by Smyth & Gibson. White leather trainers, d395, by Gucci.

Grey silk organza-trimmed camo-print bomber jacket, d1,595, by Alexander McQueen. Grey cotton sweatshirt, d295, by Balenciaga. Black cotton zip-detail trousers, d390, by Givenchy. White cotton T-shirt, d195, by Balenciaga. Grey suede slip-on sneakers, d420, by Prada Sport.

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SPARKS OF GENIUS In this year of Irish design, ID2015, we celebrate the brightest Irish architects, painters and sculptors who are influential beyond our shores

THE ARTISTS DUNCAN CAMPBELL ARTIST > Duncan Campbell became a household name in December last year, when he won the Turner Prize. Born in Swords, Co Dublin, Campbell studied for his BA in Northern Ireland, a place that seems to have had a deep impact on his work: Northern Irish themes resurface in the subject matter of his socio-politically themed videos, from activist Bernadette Devlin McAliskey (Bernadette, 2008) to John DeLorean’s Belfast car manufacturing plant (Make It New John, 2009). In 1998, Campbell moved to Glasgow to study for an MFA at the prestigious Glasgow School of Art. Campbell was one of three artists chosen to represent Scotland at the 2013 Venice Biennale. It For Others, the 56-minute ﬁlm for which Campbell won the Turner, references the 1953 ﬁlm Les Statues Meurent Aussi (Statues Also Die), using it as a jumping off point to explore value and commodity. Deliberately ambiguous – Campbell has described the work as an “open-ended essay”– it features a piece of contemporary dance by choreographer Michael Clark, juxtaposed with images of African tribal masks, 1970s Irish nationalist Joe McCann, and comedy ketchup bottles.

SEAN SCULLY ARTIST > Few Irish artists are as widely represented abroad as Sean Scully. The abstract painter is represented in permanent collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, MoMA and the Guggenheim in New York (where he has been based since 1975), the Smithsonian in Washington, the Tate in London and many more. In Dublin, The Hugh Lane has an entire room dedicated to his work on permanent display. Scully’s art draws upon the legacy of the great American abstract artists of the mid-20th century (Rothko and his ilk), but is also international in its scope and imbued with a sense of land, whether Irish drystone walls or Greek temples. His paintings are celebrated for their use of colour and texture, his most iconic works playing on stripes as a central motif, with interlocking geometric forms creating a harmonious visual rhythm. At a retrospective at the National Gallery of Ireland, from May to September, works from international collections will give an in-depth insight into his artistic practice across several decades. BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

THE ARCHITECTS

THE CRAFTSMEN

HENEGHAN PENG ARCHITECTS > The site for the Grand Egyptian Museum, located at the edge of the first desert plateau between the pyramids and Cairo is defined by a 50m level difference, created as the Nile carves its way through the desert to the Mediterranean. The competition held to determine who would design the landmark museum (01) in this dramatic landscape attracted 1,557 entries but it was won by Heneghan Peng, established in 1999 by Róisín Heneghan and Shih Fu Peng. When they won the competition, the firm had just five staff members. Now with 32 employees, the firm has an impressive list of commissions: Áras Chill Dara in Kildare, Kildare County Council’s headquarters, formed around a civic garden which inclines from the street to the building’s entrance, the Giant’s Causeway Visitor Centre, in a landscape of cliffs of hexagonal basalt stones, and extension and refurbishment of the National Gallery of Ireland, the Department of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht Headquarters and the footbridges at the London Olympic park, the Library and Academic Building at the World Heritage Site at the University of Greenwich, Connecticut. Heneghan Peng also scooped first place in an international competition for Moscow’s new centre for contemporary art. This stacked and cantilevered museum will become Russia’s “national bank of knowledge on contemporary art.”

NÍALL MC LAUGHLIN ARCHITECT > Níall McLaughlin and his London practice, established in 1991, have won numerous awards for a wide range of projects, from low-cost housing to Dublin’s Alzheimer’s Respite Centre. Last year was a particularly productive one for his practice, which won three major commissions, most notably the redesign of the setting of London’s Natural History Museum, in collaboration with landscape designer Kim Wilkie. The firm is also working on a new research centre in Jesus College, Cambridge, which includes a 150-seater auditorium, and won the contract to transform Auckland Castle in County Durham into a national museum of religion and religious art. Nearing completion are the Tapestry apartments, part of the redevelopment of the King’s Cross area in London, the firm’s largest project to date. McLaughlin’s Carmelite monastery in Kensington Church Street, London has been described as “one of Britain’s modern wonders.” Two years ago the practice was shortlisted for the Stirling Prize for the Bishop Edward King Chapel in Oxford (02). “The role of the architect is to produce rich and mysterious places and to constantly reinvent the world,” says McLaughlin.

BUILDING A REPUTATION ABROAD: Above: Londonbased Níall McLaughlin. Top: Shih Fu Peng and Róisín Heneghan. Below: Sheila O’Donnell and John Tuomey.

O’DONNELL + TUOMEY ARCHITECTS > Sheila O’Donnell and John Tuomey co-founded their practice O’Donnell + Tuomey in Dublin in 1988, having previously worked together for internationally renowned architects Stirling Wilford Associates and Colquhoun & Miller in London. Their new practice coupled O’Donnell’s quiet, studied “rationalism” alongside Tuomey’s fluent, rhetorical “constructivism” and through their buildings, publications, exhibitions and teaching they forged a confident new identity for Irish architecture. O’Donnell + Tuomey have been shortlisted for the RIBA Stirling Prize a record five times, in 1999 for Ranelagh Multi-Denominational School in Dublin, the Lewis Glucksman Gallery in Cork, An Gaeláras Irish Language Arts and Cultural Centre in Derry, the Lyric Theatre, Belfast (03) and the London School of Economics Students’ Centre. They have exhibited three times at the Venice Architecture Biennale and are both alumni of the School of Architecture at University College Dublin where they both teach. They were recently awarded the 2015 Royal Gold Medal, the greatest honour in architecture, given to a person or group of people who have had a significant influence on the advancement of architecture. Awarded since 1848, previous Royal Gold Medallists include Frank Gehry, Sir Norman Foster and Frank Lloyd Wright.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

SCULPTING IN WOOD: Walsh at work in Kinsale. Below: the Enignum bed.

CORBAN WALKER SCULPTOR > Dublin-born Walker has lived in New York since 2004, where he shows at the prestigious Pace Gallery, and is internationally known for his sculptures and installations, which are part of public and private collections around the world, including IMMA, Dublin. Walker comes from a creative family: his father Robin was a well-known Irish architect who worked under Le Corbusier and Mies van der Rohe, his mother a revered art critic. His first solo show was in Dublin in 1994, two years after graduating from the National College of Art and Design, but he is best known for representing Ireland at the 54th Venice International Art Biennale 2011, when he filled the Irish Pavilion with 176 cubes built from stainlesssteel rods. “The core of what I’ve been doing over the last 20 years is about this: my measure and the rule laid out for the average individual,” he says. Walker stands at four feet, which has led him to explore perceptions of scale from his own unique point of view.

PACE GALLERY

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TAL GREEN

TREVOR HART

48 DESIGN

A NEW PERSPECTIVE: Above: Zip, 2004. Top: Corban Walker.

JOSEPH WALSH FURNITURE DESIGNER > A lack of formal training has been liberating for Joseph Walsh. His selftaught technique of transforming wood into free-flowing, sculpted furniture is garnering him an international reputation. The middle child of nine, Walsh grew up near Kinsale. Home-schooled from the age of twelve, he received “a very gentle introduction” to wood. “My maternal grandfather used to give me a woodworking tool every year as a present, so from about the age of eight or nine, I’d learn a new skill. I started with fretwork. By my teens, I was working on a much larger scale.” Though he now travels widely – he’s just back from South America and Japan – Walsh is firmly rooted in Kinsale, where he works with 15 craftsmen in a converted barn: “Here I have a connection to the land and a strong sense of place,” he says. His Enignum I and II chairs are part of the Make Yourself Comfortable at Chatsworth exhibition in the UK; the art-collecting Duke of Devonshire first spotted them at Todd Merill’s New York gallery. The Duke’s latest acquisition is the Enignum four-poster bed: at Sotheby’s exhibition of contemporary furniture, the bed was the most talked-about object of desire. Upcoming shows include Objects in Flux at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts from August. “Joseph is a truly extraordinary person,” says the Duke. “He uses wood in a fascinating way. It’s impossible not be impressed with his craftsmanship.” BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

THERE’S METHOD TO OUR MADNESS. Some say it’s mad to create a car with up to 550PS. But we know the sheer delight and exhilaration of immense power. We also understand the importance of mastering all that power. The F-TYPE is full of state-of-the-art technology such as Torque Vectoring and Electronic Active Differential that manage precise steering and power delivery for optimum performance. After all, with great power comes great responsibility. JAGUAR.IE

HOW ALIVE ARE YOU? Official fuel economy figures for the Jaguar F-TYPE range (l/100km): Urban 12.4 – 15.9, Extra Urban 6.7 – 8.3, Combined 8.8 – 11.1. CO2 emissions from 205 – 259g/km.

GROOMING

SERVICES

HEAD QUARTERS

HERE IS WHAT WE CAN DO FOR YOU

The easiest route to a smart spring reinvention is a new haircut. But what do you ask for?

Menswear services at Brown Thomas are designed to make life easy the

the

The side part will continue to dominate men’s styles

Longer hair isn’t for everyone, but going the

The low-maintenance look, complete with silver

this year – good news, since it’s a really quick and easy way to make your boring old hair look a little more Don Draper, and it can work well even on thinner hair. A side part can look sleek, hip or preppy depending on how you style it – matte, slick, messy or wavy. “The groomed side parting is a timeless look, and versatile,” says Stelios Nicolaou, Master Barber at Aveda. “It’s all about achieving the right texture, a high-shine, groomed and clean feel.” You

full Hozier is becoming more common. While the singer admits his “man bun” is a result of speed and laziness, we’re seeing a lot of them around town. Long hair doesn’t have to be down below the shoulders – as Jared Leto sported until recently – and anyway, it will take a while to grow it out: experiment with chin-length to start with. “Grownout, natural-looking hair just below the jaw line always looks cool. Embrace your natural texture

streaks, is the default for most. Thinning hair can scupper even the most relaxed style, however, and growing numbers of guys anxiously check their hairline each morning, even the under-30s. Good nutrition is key for healthy hair, emphasises trichologist Deborah Whelan, so keep an eye on your diet and maintain good levels of protein and iron intake. “A deficiency of any vitamin or mineral can cause problems, such as poor quality or brittle

SIDE PART.

LENGTH.

CLASSIC.

need a cut that’s shorter at the back and sides than on top. Try parting hair on the opposite side; you will need a bit of product to train hair to lie flat in a different direction.

and go for a more tousled look,” advises Nicolaou. Condition is everything: think strong and healthy rather than straggly. Greasy is a definite no-no, and invest in regular trims and a decent conditioner.

hair, early shedding of the hair shafts, slow growth and a lack of shine and density,” says Whelan. “Fatigue, stress and illness are also common causes of thinning.” Wear hair short if this is an issue.

POSTER BOY: LEONARDO DI CAPRIO USE: Lightweight AVEDA Pure-Formance Men’s Grooming Clay, d29.50, gives strong hold with no shine.

POSTER BOY: JARED LETO USE: Keep hair clean, fragrant and easier to comb with ACQUA DI PARMA Colonia Essenza Hair & Shower Gel, d32.

POSTER BOY: DANIEL CRAIG USE:The REDKEN Intra Force treatment (d40, including cut) at Browns Barbers, Brown Thomas Dublin.

the

In contrast to the trend for immaculate, supergroomed hair, let’s

The beard and quiff combination continues to dominate, with undercuts

George Clooney has long been the ultimate silver fox. “Adapting

welcome the return to loose, messy styles.

adding a new edge. Short sides and a bit of a lift at

your style to grey hair is key,” advises Nicolaou.

MOP.

COMBO.

Jacinta Goff of Browns Barbers at Brown Thomas Dublin has

the top suits most face shapes, and is a good way to lengthen a round

COLOUR.

“Grey looks better in a shorter style as it feels more distinguished and

seen a trend for men growing their hair out this year. Now, it’s more about longer, more relaxed

face. “David Beckham is a grooming style icon – what he has everyone wants,” says Nicolaou. “A less

elegant. Also, consider both the hair on your head and your facial hair – if the two are not greying at

styles with a clean-shaven face. Just make sure the top has some texture and wildness. This style is a good way to add volume to thin or fine hair.

commercial style icon is model Ricki Hall, who’s known for his beard and tattoos. I often hear clients referring to his style.”

the same rate you won’t look as stylish. Use a colourenhancing shampoo and conditioner to neutralise brassy tones and add a silver shine to your hair.”

POSTER BOY: EDDIE REDMAYNE USE: MOLTON BROWN Volumizing Thekku Hairwash, d22, gives a boost to flat hair and has a clean, aromatic scent.

POSTER BOY: DAVID BECKHAM USE: Soften and nourish beard with light and fragrant TOM FORD Conditioning Beard Oil in Tobacco Vanille, d47.

POSTER BOY: GEORGE CLOONEY USE: Keep silver tones bright and clean with AVEDA Blue Malva Conditioner, d29.50.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

1 PERSONAL SHOPPING. We offer an effortless, discreet and luxurious way to shop for just one item, or a whole wardrobe. Our Personal Shopping team, led by Ann Finn and Jeff Thompson, can help you find your own personal style, the perfect look for any event or can help you refresh your wardrobe. We listen carefully and advise accordingly. We can pre-select a rail of clothes in advance for you to browse and try on in the comfort of our luxury Personal Shopping suite. If you are under pressure for time, they will select and deliver whatever you need directly to your home or office, making shopping truly stress-free and enjoyable. Personal Shopping is a complimentary service.

2 MADE TO MEASURE. The Brown Thomas Made to Measure by appointment service will help you create the perfect-fitting suit from one of our exquisite tailoring collections, in your choice of style and fabric, tailored to your look and lifestyle, by a master tailor. We also provide one-to-one consultations and offer this service for business and for suits for special occasions.

3 MADE TO ORDER.

6 SIZE AND FIT.

The Brown Thomas Made to Order service is available year round. Our instore team, including Dusko Starcevic and Brendan Furlong, is trained to take measurements for Made to Order suits from brands including Canali, Zegna and Corneliani. We offer a wide choice of fabrics, buttons and linings and will fit your suit to your own particular requirements. A similar service applies to shirts from Smyth & Gibson and Eton. Once the suit is ready, it is pressed and packed, ready for collection or delivery.

Not everyone is a standard fit. Our expert team in Brown Thomas will advise on size and fit from achieving the perfect suit fit to getting sleeve lengths and hem heights just right. We cater for all sizes from tailored fit to comfort fit and everything in between. We keep your measurements on file to make it easy every time.

4 SHIRT SERVICE. We also offer an affordable personalised shirttailoring service with advice on size and fit: whether you are particularly tall, or require shorter sleeve lengths or wider collars or a roomier fit, we can tailor a shirt to perfection – in a wide range of fabrics, colours and collar styles.

7 FINISHING TOUCHES. Our menswear team will provide independent advice and inspiration for all your wardrobe choices including shoes and accessories. We will deliver to your home or office.

8 GIFT SHOPPING.

5 BLACK-TIE SERVICE.

Our Personal Shopping team provides a gift selection service. We can select the perfect gift – large or small – from any area in Brown Thomas, gift-wrap it and arrange delivery. We are also happy to select bedlinen, luggage, homewares and any other items. We can arrange collection or delivery at short notice.

Our unique occasionwear service will help you choose the ideal suit for that special event, from the suit and shirt to bow-tie, tie, shoes and accessories.

For more details on any of the services above and to make an appointment, call 01 617 1161.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

54 GROOMING

5 GROOMING RESOLUTIONS A few upgrades to your daily routine can make a big difference. Here’s how to stay ahead of the pack (€34) won’t make your face look greasy. Mulrooney advises that how you eat can help, too: “Eat a diet high in antioxidants, namely in-season, brightly coloured fruit and vegetables that boost the body’s defence mechanisms, allowing it to ward off damaging effects of the sun and environmental pollution.”

3 BEARD. In the hip part of every city, the dominant look is still THE BEARD. Razors are being sidelined: in the past two years, for the ﬁrst time, men spent more cash on toiletries, particularly skincare, rather than on shaving products. Stelios Nicolaou, Master Barber at AVEDA UK, says: “From subtle stubble to a masculine full beard, the trend for facial hair has been cranked up a notch.” For good beard maintenance, arm yourself with a comb; TOM FORD’s Beard Comb (€32) is the snazziest to have in your pocket, and the Conditioning Beard Oils (€47) double as skin care and scent.

4 TEETH. A study by a New York think tank noted that stained or crooked teeth (followed by a bad hairstyle and complexion) stood out as the key element of a person’s appearance that can undermine their “executive presence”. Orthodonist Dr Niall LeMasney says: “People are very aware of the importance of having AN ATTRACTIVE SMILE – it gives them self-conﬁdence.” For some this will mean committing to braces. “Having straight teeth means you’ll have less problems with your teeth and gums, and they’re easier to clean,” LeMasney points out. A high-impact toothbrush, such as FOREO Issa (€169), is a good investment.

5 SCENT.

1 SKIN.

The most basic part of your daily routine is the most important – CLEANSING YOUR SKIN, particularly at night. If you do nothing else, just stop washing your face with soap – it can actually increase sebum production, making your skin even more oily. Try SHISEIDO Men’s Cleansing Foam (€29), and a gadget: FOREO‘s new Luna sonic cleanser (from €119) is easy to use and will help shift dirt from pores for a deeper clean.

2 SUNCARE. Guys are still ignoring the fact that DAILY SUN PROTECTION is the single best thing you can do for your face. Dermatologist Dr Katherine Mulrooney says: “Scientiﬁc studies suggest that 50 per cent of one’s annual sun exposure occurs over just 30 to 40 days of the year, with most of the sun exposure occurring during holidays and weekends.” A light daily SPF such as CLINIQUE M-Protect SPF21

Update your scent to something charismatic and decidely unisex: scent is becoming increasingly gender-neutral, with an inclusive approach to traditionally “masculine” notes such as leather, or “feminine” ﬂorals. TOM FORD’s Grey Vetiver (from €75) is sunny and salty, while actor RICHARD E GRANT’s ﬁrst fragrance, Jack (€120), new into Brown Thomas, has punchy lime and mandarin notes with an edge of marijuana. Also intriguing and distinctive is ATKINSONS The Odd Fellow’s Bouquet (€115), a decadent take on tobacco, leather and ginger.

THE EDIT 01 SHISEIDO Men’s Cleansing Foam, €29. 02 CLINIQUE M-Protect SPF21, €34. 03 TOM FORD Conditioning Beard Oil, €47; Beard Comb, €32. 04 FOREO Issa toothbrush, €169. 05 ATKINSONS The Odd Fellow’s Bouquet eau de toilette, €115.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

TRUNK ARCHIVE

ven the most low-maintenance among us need to up our game from time to time. Good grooming doesn’t have to mean anything fancy: a bit of decent skincare, super-clean teeth and a scent with some individuality is enough to mark you out as a man who’s on the ball but not vain.

SPRING SUMMER 2015

T I G E R O F S W E D E N E S TA B L I S H E D 1 9 0 3

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MENSWEAR MAVERICKS Do fashion risk-takers have more fun? Godfrey Deeny, the straight-talking Irishman at Le Figaro, shows us what we can learn from them

S jack guinness

THE GALLANT Writer, model, DJ and actor, Jack Guinness has many strings to his bow. His cavalier career path is reflected in his clothes, which combine traditional dandyism with a touch of unruly vagabond attitude.

robert downey junior

ometimes it takes an element of the unexpected to really elevate an outfit. Not so long ago, wearing a midnight blue tuxedo to attend a rather ritzy dinner in an 84th floor apartment above Central Park, it was the crystal carnation flower that I took from the table at the end and used as a pochette that won me compliments. “You look so chic,” said my dinner partner, actress Hailee Steinfeld, tapping me on the shoulder. It’s all about the details, you see. Adding the unexpected. Markus Ebner, editor-in-chief of fashion magazine Achtung, has been known to layer an old green hunting waistcoat over his dark bespoke suits. L’Uomo Vogue editorat-large Robert Rabensteiner was spotted at New York Fashion Week this year swapping the laces in his hiking boots for bright red ones. Individualist flourishes like these make Rabensteiner the most photographed ever gent by celebrated menswear blog The Editorialist. Consider the added impetus accessories can bring, but try not to overthink – you’re aiming for the Italian concept sprezzatura, or “studied nonchalance”. It should all look very effortless. A good hat can add the right element of unexpected, or cover wrists with mismatched cuffs – the more eclectic the better. Think Hermès wristbands mixed with cotton straps from Bali. Finally, it’s about the right coat, with a kicky colour. ^

lapo elkann

markus ebner

derek blasberg

THE AESTHETE Fashion editor Derek Blasberg is known for his jetset lifestyle and immaculate taste. A fan of a classic, well-cut blazer, Blasberg adds interest to his polished look by playing with colour and relaxed shapes.

robert rabensteiner

THE ECCENTRIC

THE RISK TAKER

THE NATURAL

THE ORIGINAL

Original wild child Robert Downey Junior has long since tamed his libertine lifestyle – but still displays a rebellious spirit in his wardrobe choices. Strong glasses have long been a style signature.

Fiat heir and entrepreneur Lapo Elkann has the fashion daring to match his portfolio. His trademark colour is bright, deep blue (“I love sailing,” he offers by way of explanation), but this provocateur isn’t afraid of any hue.

Markus Ebner, director of German fashion magazine Achtung Mode, has the kind of insouciant cool that will pull off any look. Top tip? “Sleep in your shirt before you wear it. Nothing beats a worn-in look.”

One of the most influential figures within the menswear sector, Robert Rabensteiner dictates trends – by flouting them. The L’Uomo Vogue style editor’s classic gentlemanly aesthetic is pepped up by a dash of eccentricity.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

Incredible creations start with Nespresso.

The coffees you love have as their foundation an excellent espresso. Our Nespresso experts select from the finest coffee beans around the world to create our rich and complex blends.

STYLE

TRAVEL SMARTER

THE BUSINESS PACK The carry-on packing list: how to make the most out of the minimum 01

Whether your trip is for business or pleasure, mindless packing results in wrinkled jackets, mismatched shirts and ties, and odd socks. Looking good when travelling is no easy feat: the object is to look as good when you arrive as when you left. The good news is that you can simplify everything without sacrificing anything. You just have to know what you need. It pays to travel light.

CASE STUDY. Size matters, even for carry-ons, so leave the big suitcases for family holidays. A-lister luggage favourite Rimowa has come up with a top-notch option for the well-travelled business man; the Salsa Business Case, with a detachable zipped laptop case – it’s one smart carry-on. And despite its small size, you can really pack it in. The heaviest items, like shoes and books, should be packed down on the wheels, as it makes the bag easier to roll. Also, think outside the bag: not

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10 Navy Intrecciato woven-leather briefcase, d1,980, by BOTTEGA VENETA.11 Dark brown slim Intrecciato woven-leather belt, d400, by BOTTEGA VENETA. 12 Folding tortoiseshell sunglasses, d208, by PERSOL. 13 Navy Intrecciato woven-leather wallet, d420, by BOTTEGA VENETA. 14 Intoxicated eau de parfum, d215 for 50ml, by BY KILIAN. 15 Camel wool polo shirt, d330, by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. 16 Tan suede tasselled loafers, d470, by CROCKETT & JONES. 17 Tobacco cotton jeans, d425, by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. 18 Cornflower blue linen-mix two-button jacket, d1,220, by CORNELIANI. 19 Blue cotton shirt, d130, by HUGO BOSS; silver curved Intrecciato cuff links, d290, by BOTTEGA VENETA. 20 Blue polka-dot silk pocket square, d125, by TOM FORD. 21 Navy hand-rolled silk tussah tie, d105, by DRAKE’S LONDON. 22 Navy suede Horsebit loafers, d550, by GUCCI.

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everything needs to be packed. Carry large items, like your overcoat. Remember, this is a travel essential on par with your passport – choose it wisely.

POWER PACKING.

Packing smart means simplifying. The easy 02

FREQUENT FLYERS. A navy wool two-button suit is a multipurpose workhorse. Wear it as a full suit or pair the trousers with a crisp cotton shirt and fine-gauge knit. Be a minimalist with grooming products. Pare your list down to the essentials. Shoes take up the most room in your suitcase. Wear your heaviest pair, pack the lighter ones.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

01 Dusty blue silk and cotton water-resistant reversible car coat, d2,230, by BRIONI. 02 Black leather lace-up shoes, d465, by DOLCE & GABBANA. 03 Navy two-button suit, d1,645, by ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. 04 Navy spotted silk tie, d170, by TOM FORD. 05 Blue wool polka-dot silk pocket square, d40, by ETON. 06 White cotton shirt, d170, by CORNELIANI. 07 Navy Salsa multi-wheel Business Case, d465, by RIMOWA. 08 Blue checked cotton pyjamas, d99.95, by POLO RALPH LAUREN. 09 Tobacco cashmere and silk round-neck sweater, d680, by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI.

way to streamline? Sticking to just one 21

colour combination – such as this season’s sharpest and most wearable, blue and tan – means you have options, but not too many. Classic tan jeans and a blue cotton and linen jacket are the linchpins. For a meeting, a soft pale blue shirt will look good with a tie, pocket square and navy loafers, or for a more casual event, unbuttoned at the neck under a knit polo shirt, with brown suede loafers. A good belt, briefcase and sunglasses work with both scenarios.

As does a subtle scent.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

STYLE

TRAVEL SMARTER

THE WEEKEND PACK Seek laidback luxury with relaxed styles in great fabrics Whether jetting off to a style capital or taking a spin to a rural bolthole, a weekend break calls for comfort with style. Over 48 hours, sweatshirts or knits can be swapped or a scarf added to your basic jeans-and-loafers look. Buying good quality basics? Fabric is key. Aside from feeling soft against skin, great fabric fits like a glove. And this season’s casual jacket is a sharp military style.

DAY TO NIGHT. Transition to evening with quietly elegant modern classics. Fine nautical stripes will always look smart, but even more casual items, like a good quality denim shirt, can be given added polish with the right blazer and accessories. For a casual evening dinner, the updated navy blazer – no brass buttons, and snugly cut to the hips – and a pair of navy suede Derby shoes is a classic, style-conscious choice.

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01 Khaki cotton military-style jacket, d1,530, by VALENTINO. 02 Blue denim jeans, d460, by JACOB COHEN. 03 Dark brown Intrecciato woven-leather suitcase, d3,450, by BOTTEGA VENETA. 04 Blue camouflage cotton T-shirt, d325, by VALENTINO. 05 Light grey cotton polo shirt, d195, by BELSTAFF. 06 Blue large fine-gauge cotton scarf, d220, by PAUL SMITH. 07 Blue melange round-neck sweatshirt, d595, by TOM FORD. 08 Tan suede Gommino driving shoes, d330, by TOD’S. 08

09 Navy double-breasted blazer, d540, by ACNE STUDIOS. 10 Camel V-neck button-down cardigan, d220, by ACNE STUDIOS. 11 White slim-fit lightweight stretch shirt, d220, by ACNE STUDIOS. 12 Dark brown aviator sunglasses, d275, by TOM FORD. 13 Blue button-down denim shirt, d170, by ACNE STUDIOS. 14 Navy suede Derby shoes, d230, by HUGO BOSS. 15 White and navy nautical long-sleeved top, d450, by GUCCI. 16 Navy Rockrunner sneakers, d490, by VALENTINO. 17 Black Intrecciato woven-leather washbag, d720, by BOTTEGA VENETA. 18 Anti-age Global Revitalizer for dry skin, d187, by SISLEY; Vetiver Spice eau de parfum intense, d95 for 100ml, by BELLA BELLISSIMA. 19 Navy slim Intrecciato woven-leather belt, d400, by BOTTEGA VENETA. 20 Navy wool croppedleg trousers, d260, by ACNE STUDIOS.

CASE STUDY. 10

Make sure your garments – all with an off-duty feel – can be mixed and matched to maximise your pack. A classic wheelie case should be sufficient for a weekend trip – whether or not you’re hampered by hand luggage restrictions. This dark brown woven leather case by Bottega Veneta is the last word in luxury – and will only get better with age.

WASH AWAY. 11

On a weekend break, being well-groomed adds to a feeling of wellbeing, so don’t neglect to pack a fully-loaded washbag. Invest in a quality bag that will see you through trip after trip, such as a woven leather style by Bottega Veneta, with two zipped compartments to keep your toiletries organised. Inside? Sisley’s Sisleÿum Anti-Age Global Revitalizer is a convenient combination anti-ageing mosturiser and aftershave created for male skin. Bella Bellissima Vetiver Spice smells clean and fresh, with an undertone of spice.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

STYLE

TRAVEL SMARTER

THE HOLIDAY PACK Reassess your holiday wardrobe: it should be smart, with a sense of fun Wherever you’re headed this summer, we’ve got you covered. The ideal is to travel light but manage to look pulled together (and indiscernibly different) on every day of your long weekend. With relatively few items, you can create a capsule wardrobe – keep colours the same and accessories neutral and add a bit of print to shake things up.

ON THE BEACH.

Beach etiquette varies from destination to destination but a few things should never change. A visit to the beach is not an excuse to wear your least lovely items – so banish worn tees or dubious sandals before you set one foot on the sand. A decent towel makes a smart statement. Your top should match your bottom – in other words, choose a tee that doesn’t war with your shorts. And cover up in the sun, for your health’s sake.

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12 Print cotton T-shirt, d230, by ALEXANDER MC QUEEN. 13 Brick red swim shorts, d175, by ORLEBAR BROWN. 14 Red and navy stripe cotton polo shirt, d250, by SAINT LAURENT. 15 Navy canvas hat, d135, by DSQUARED2. 16 Multicoloured stripe cotton towel, d90, by PAUL SMITH. 17 White tropical print cotton T-shirt, d150, by DSQUARED2. 18 Pursuit Pool Sandal, €135, by GUCCI. 19 Green and navy stripe cotton crew-neck T-shirt, d120, by MONCLER. 20 Liquid blue and navy cottonpiqué polo shirts (stacked), from d85 each, by POLO RALPH LAUREN. 21 Beach-print cotton swim shorts, d290, by ORLEBAR BROWN. 22 Navy terry-cloth polo shirt, d115, by ORLEBAR BROWN.

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THE SMART GETAWAY PACK.

Make boldly-printed tailored shorts the main event – always pair printed shorts with a plain polo shirt. Make sure you pack a light knit for cool summer evenings. You don’t need to be poolside to pull off shades. Wear them all the time: they offer protection, conceal tired traveller’s eyes – or the effects of one mojito too many.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

01 Gas Station-print canvas holdall, d520, by PAUL SMITH. 02 Navy palm-print cotton shorts, d195, by PS PAUL SMITH. 03 Aqua green cotton-piqué polo shirt, d125, by BURBERRY BRIT. 04 Blue Basket low-top sneakers, d325, by LANVIN. 05 Square Clubmaster sunglasses, d148, by RAY BAN. 06 Navy and blue stripe linen-mix sweater, d365, by PAUL SMITH. 07 Taupe canvas espadrille trainers, d340, by GUCCI. 08 White denim slim-fit jeans, d195, by BURBERRY BRIT. 09 Gas Station-print canvas iPad case, d205, by PAUL SMITH. 10 Blue cotton polo shirt with contrast collar, d125, by MONCLER. 11 Navy nautical-print cotton and linen blend shorts, d145, by RALPH LAUREN.

HIT THE POOL IN STYLE. Swim shorts are integral to your holiday uniform, so choose a style with care and attention. Invest in trunks that can take you from poolside to lunch, ie not too brief or garish. It sounds obvious but when you are buying shorts, make sure they fit, and are both flattering and comfortable. Choose one of three classic swimwear colours – black, red or navy – or add an eye-catching print for fun. When packing holidaywear, roll every item that can be rolled to avoid creasing. If you take anything remotely tailored, turn it inside out and tuck in the sleeves so it will arrive in the best shape possible.

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015

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MIXING WITH THE BEST Cocktail culture has inspired a new style of bartending

TRUNK ARCHIVE

here have been three great eras of cocktail drinking, the latest of which we are enjoying right now. Back in the golden age of cocktails, from 1880-1915, in America, the original “mixologists” were equal parts alchemist, raconteur and professional bartender, presiding in white jackets and starched shirts. Prohibition followed, a dark age for cocktail appreciation in public but not at home where the private cocktail party took hold and flourished. The cocktail’s contraband status endowed it with allure, thus making it represent simultaneously glamour and vice, a contradiction that prevails to this day. (Cocktails can be civilised or uncivilised depending on how they are prepared, who is doing the drinking, with whom and where.) The best bartenders fled to Europe, popping up in places like London’s American Bar at The Savoy, where women got a taste for cocktails. In the 1950s, the Don Draper times, the three-martini lunch was born and though speed was of the essence (the soda gun was invented) cocktails were all the rage. Although the 1980s briefly flirted with cocktails it was really in 2000 when cocktail creation was revived – with a twist. A respect for tradition and a reinvention of the cocktail through technological advancements – not to mention the boom in high-end spirits – helped revive the interest in cocktails. Cocktails have always been associated with glamour, and clever conversation. “The cocktail hour, that suspended time between work and supper, encourages ‘mixing’ of men and women, aided by mixed drinks,” said Joanne Dolan Ingersoll, curator of The Museum of Art at RISD, whose exhibition on cocktail-inspired fashion traces the social and cultural impact of the cocktail way of life. Cocktails have always represented more than just a drink, the ritual one of care and attention, dependent on its creator, the mixer, the shape of the glass, the quality of the ingredients, the occasion for its consumption and of, course, the skill of the mixologist. So what distinguishes an average bartender from a world-class one? Creating a memorable cocktail experience is about more than exotic ingredients and squeezing juices fresh. It turns out, according to Peter O’Connor of Diageo Reserve, that it’s about training, and about competition. The industry set out to discover– and foster– the next generation of bartending talent responsible for setting the latest

mixology trends. Every year for the last six years, the talents and abilities of the world’s best bartenders have been tested on a global stage in World Class, an elite competition that celebrates contemporary cocktail culture all over the world. In May, a year-long quest to find Ireland’s most talented mixologists will culminate with the awarding of the title of The Irish World Class Irish Bartender of the Year. The title-holder will go on to represent Ireland at the

Global Final in South Africa in July. The best-in-class cocktails that are created will use the finest spirits – Gold Label Reserve whiskey from Johnnie Walker, Ketel One vodka, Tanqueray No Ten gin and others. As Peter O’Connor explains: “It elevates the craft of the bartender and builds careers in the industry.” And we cocktail drinkers can enjoy the authenticity, the nostalgia, the sheer glamour of a great cocktail, beautifully made. ^

BROWN THOMAS MENSWEAR | SPRING 2015