Unit 11 & 12 by Laura Sheldon

Unit 11 & 12 Laura Sheldon

What is an independent retailer? An independent retailer is someone who is completely responsible for his or her own business. The retailer owns or has bought an independent store and has built the business from the ground up, by assessing all of the needs of the store, which can include staffing, marketing, merchandising, sales etc.

Miss Francesca Couture

Since graduating in 2008, Miss Francesca Couture's glamorous designs have become go-to ensembles for celebrities including Michelle Keegan, Alesha Dixon and Helen Flanagan to name but a few, and now she's in the Metquarter dressing ladies from Liverpool. Miss Francesca Couture is the place to go for gorgeous fashion and show-stopping all-eyes-on-you dresses for the upcoming party season.

Store Layout/Visual Merchandising One of each design and creation, displayed on fixtures, shows their worth & how theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re made to fit Swirling, glossy steps that create the sense of feeling like a princess

White ribbon across the doors gives a sense of a gift, as well as more of a princess feel. Displaying one of her best pieces, giving potential customers an idea of the type of occasions she creates pieces for.

Displaying more of her designs and giving her potential customer an idea of how she can vary with her designs.

More finishing touches to the store which creates a sense of royalty and princess feel.

Name of the retailer As well as showing the designs via fixtures, Francesca shows them modelled too, giving a sense of how they look on.

Miss Francesca Couture The staff structure of “Miss Francesca Couture”, would be pretty minimal due to it being such a small business. Therefore, there wouldn’t necessarily be a need for a “team” of people for each department, such as “marketing” and a team of “buyers” etc. There would be one or two people taking care of the accounts, as well as another person or perhaps the same person who deals with administration for the company, whom deals with social networking and marketing for the business. To conclude my research for this particular business, “Miss Francesca Couture”, basically says it in the name, she produces couture, one – off pieces made to fit her clients. As things stand at the moment, her website isn’t particularly up to scratch like her other competitors, this is seen by the date stamp of her last blog posts, which is back in 2013. Which is now 3 years ago. There isn’t a lot of promotion via social media or online which is what she needs to focus on, this could possibly bring more customers to her boutique, as well as more customers would know where to find her boutique, as it is in a location where you would have to be looking for it in order to find it.

Nordic Poetry

Nordic Poetry was set up in the depths of East London by a Scandinavian girl, with passion for collecting the very best in fashion. Nordic Poetry is a Retro/Vintage fashion company that prides itself on constantly monitoring the latest fashion and future trends in order to keep its collection fresh and upto-date. Nordic Poetry is a real alternative to the high street, they carefully hand pick every garment to ensure quality and originality. They believe that fashion can be ethical, and by offering the very best in collected vintage.

What does Nordic Poetry sell?

Nordic Poetry is an independent retailer which sells the best of vintage clothing. Vintage clothing has became a lot more popular during the past five or so years due to people wanting to recycle more, whom are therefore giving their clothes to charities or selling them for money. Thus saving good quality clothing being thrown in landfill sites and damaging the environment.

Store Layout/Visual Merchandising

Similar jackets are displayed together on the same fixture

Images of modelling wearing the vintage designs, looking quite artistic, giving an idea of the potential customer Nordic Poetry are targeting

Displaying fur hats on shelving, as well as t-shirts, giving more of an idea of what they sell in store and online.

As seen on the previous fixture, all similar jackets are hung together. Here, you can see a gradual colour scheme with fading leather jackets.

Nordic Poetry Social Media Presence Daily Blog

Instagram

Sunday Social

Sunday Social is a Brisbane based retail store, specialising in modern and vintage clothing. They specialise in easy to wear, fashion forward items.

What Does Sunday Social sell?

Sunday social sell items that are minimal and simplistic as well as quirky items, such as the items included in the images above. Due to having a boutique in Brisbane, the designers of this boutique wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be designing anything too heavy to wear in the heat of Australia. It will all consist of polyester, cotton, linen and any more light fabrics.

Sunday Social Social Media Presence

Customer Profile of Weavers Door

My name is James and I am a full time student. I am studying at Liverpool John Moores University. I love listening to music, one of my favourite albums is Definitely, Maybe by Oasis. I am a die hard Evertonian and my favourite ever player is Duncan Ferguson. I love to keep on top of the latest trends, but I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like to go over the top. My favourite trend at the moment is layering. I love going out with my friends on the weekend & spending time with my family. I also can never get enough of trainees & other types of footwear. You can never have enough.

Weavers door Item

Brief Description

Cost

New Balance M1500 'Norwegian Wood' in Green/Orange/ Tan £120

Norse Projects Villads Twill Shirt in Dark Navy

£98

Carhartt L/S Pocket Tee in Dark Grey

£35

Fjallraven Ovik Patagonia Melange Beanie Better Sweater in Dark Olive 3-in-1 Parka in Black

£29.99

£280

Fabric Composition

Crafted from suede and mesh uppers with a Encap sole unit. Features include pigskin overlays, rubber outsole and reflective detailing.

Crafted from Crafted from 100% Premium 100% cotton Cotton Cotton Single Midweight, Jersey Three-ply Oxford 185 g/m² Cloth. Mother of Pearl Comp Shop Buttons

Crafted from 100% Acrylic Double Yarn Folded Leather Fjallraven Logo

Crafted from 100% Recycled Polyester Shell & zip-out Better Sweater™ Jacket Bluesign® Approved Waterproof Shell. Raglan Sleeve Construction.

COO

Made in England

Made in Romania

Made in USA

Made in England

Barbour x White Mountaineering Edenkawa Sweat in Geo Print

Carhartt Sid Pants Chino in Dark Navy

Red Wing Classic Moc Toe Boot in Oro-Tan

Universal Works Quilt Gilet in Navy Nylon

Fjallraven Kanken Classic Backpack in Graphite/ Uncle Blue

Weavers Door Item

Brief Description

Cost

£110

£79.99

£239

£125

£65

Fabric Composition

Made from a Durable CottonBlend Fabric

Crafted from 6/38/16% Cotton/T400®/P olyester 'Lamar' Stretch Twill, 8.6 oz

Ankle Work Boot by Red Wing. Crafted from Oil Slick Leather. Goodyear Welt Sole Construction. White Traction Tred Sole

Crafted from 100% Polyamide Outer, 100% Polyester Wadding Lined with 100% Cotton

Crafted from Vinylon F 100% Vinylal

COO

Made in England

Made in USA

Made in England

Weavers door Item

Brief Description

Cost

Norse Projects Anton Loose Weave Gauze L/S Shirt in Charcoal £135

Han Kjobenhavn Patagonia P-6 Smith Sunglasses Logo T-Shirt in in Amber Gravel Heather

£135

Converse Jack Purcell Leather in Black

£29.99

£69.99

Elka Klitmoller Jacket in Olive

£95

Fabric Composition

Made from 100% Crafted from Wool Italian Acetate. Japanese Nickel Free Hinges. Carl Zeiss CR-39 Lenses

Crafted from 100% Texas Coop Organic Cotton Jersey. Screen-print inks (PVC) Taped Shoulder Seams

Crafted from a Premium Leather. Vulcanised Sole Unit. Stainless Steel Eyelets. Jack Purcell Smile Toe Cap & Heel Tab

Crafted from 90/10% PVC/Polyester Weld Seams Elasticated Hood

COO

Made in Romania

Made in Italy

Made in USA & Mexico

Made in USA

Adidas Originals Black Trefoil Tee

Carhartt Nimbus Navy Pullover Jacket

Cheap Monday Tight Base Grey Skinny Jeans

Fred Perry Mahogany Winter Check Shirt

Rains UO Exclusive Navy Backpack

£25

£130

£49

Urban Outfitters Item

Brief Description

Cost

£80

£75

Fabric Composition

Cotton

fleece lined, Nylon

Cotton, polyester, elastane. Lightweight stretchy denim

Cotton & mixed fibres

50% PU, 50% Polyester

COO

Made in England

Made in USA

Made in Germany

Made in England

Made in Denmark

Urban Outfitters Item

Brief Description

Stussy Stock Burgundy Cap

Cost

£35

Levi's Chino Corduroy Sherpa Trucker Jacket £95

Reebok Ventilator Supreme Nylon Navy Trainers £72

Urban Outfitters T-Shirt Metallica Tee

£25

Urban Renewal Vintage Customised Burgundy Corduroy Shirt £25

Fabric Composition

Mixed Materials

Cotton, polyester

Leather, mesh, textile, rubber

Mixed Fibres

Vintage Fibres

COO

Made in Germany

Made in England

Made in USA

Made in England

Unknown due to being urban renewal

Shore Leave by Urban Outfitters Tyler Shearling Dark Grey Parka

Adidas Crew Sport Sock Pack in Black

£135

£12

Urban Outfitters Item

Brief Description

Fred Perry Navy Donegal Ribbed Scarf

Cost

£60

Adidas Brown Farah Drake Black Trouser Tweed Superstar Jacket £115

£55

Fabric Composition

Wool

Mixed Fibres

Cotton, Elastane Mixed Materials

100% cotton

COO

Made in England

Made in USA

Made in England

Blacks outdoor Item

Brief Description

Cost

REGATTA Skysail Parka £80

THE NORTH FACE JACK WOLFSKIN Drew Peak Crochet Cap Hoody £60

£25

BERGHAUS Tech Short Sleeve Tee £20

CRAGHOPPERS Errwood Gloves £15

Fabric Composition

Polyester, Fleece 100% brushed panelling, faux back cotton fur trim

Wool acrylic knit Smooth microfleece thermal lining Shell: 50 % acrylic 50 % wool Lining: 100 % polyester

Berghaus’ own quick-drying fabric, this tee uses silver ion technology to wick moisture effectively and provide permanent odour protection.

100% acrylic

COO

Made in England

Made in USA

Made in England

THE NORTH FACE Borealis Classic 29 Litre Backpack

THE NORTH FACE ICEBREAKER ThermoBall™ Quantum Zip Hooded Hoody Insulated Jacket

COLUMBIA Davenport SIX Outdoor Boot

THE NORTH FACE polo shirt

Blacks Outdoor Item

Brief Description

Cost

£75

£160

£100

£32

Fabric Composition

420D Nylon, 600D Polyester print, 300D miniripstop, 1680D ballistics Nylon

15D 100% Polyester Ripstop shell with a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish

260gm midweight Merino wool and Lycra blend

Full grain leather

100% cotton

COO

Made in England

Made in Germany

Made in England

Blacks Outdoor Item

Brief Description

Cost

JACK WOLFSKIN West Brook OC Long Sleeve

OAKLEY Garage Rock Sunglasses

£40

£155

MERRELL Moab GORE-TEX® Shoe

BERGHAUS Fastrack 3 in 1 Jacket

£110

£180

THE NORTH FACE Gordon Lyons Quarter-Zip Hoody £85

Fabric Composition

100% cotton

Lightweight 0 Matter frame with Square 0 metal icon accents.

GORETEX® Performance Comfort footwear. Vibram® Multi Sport. SoleMerrell Air Cushion to heel. Antibacterial To prevent odour forming in hot climate conditions or after prolonged wear.

A versatile waterproof jacket from Berghaus AQ™ outer – completely waterproof shell which encourages breathability, keeping you cool and dry Berghaus AT™ Micro fleece inner – lightweight zip in/out insulation with quick drying properties

100% polyester sweater fleece (Bluesign approved fabric)

COO

Made in England

Made in USA

Made in England

The North Face Resolve Insulated Jacket

Front Suede Brogues In Navy

Heart & Dagger Herringbone Wool Trousers in Slim Fit

ASOS Skinny Blackwatch Check Shirt in Twill with Long Sleeves

Reclaimed Vintage Trawler Beanie In Green

£120

£55

£45

Fabric Composition

Body: 100% Polyester, Fabric: 100% Polyester, Lining: 100% Nylon.

Lining: 50% Real leather, 50% Textile, Sole: 100% Other materials, Upper: 100% Real leather.

Lining: 60% Viscose, 40% Polyester, Main: 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide.

97% Cotton, 3% Elastane.

100% Acrylic

COO

Made in USA

Made in England

ASOS MENSWEAR Item

Brief Description

Cost

£25

£8

ASOS MENSWEAR Item

Brief Description

Adidas Originals California T-Shirt AP9018

ASOS MINI FISHERMAN BEANIE

ASOS Round Sunglasses In Camel

Adidas originals sweatshirt

ASOS CABLE KNIT JUMPER GREY COTTON

Cost

£28

£8

£50

£24

Fabric Composition

100% Cotton.

100% ACRYLIC

100% Plastic

70% cotton, 30% polyester

100% COTTON

COO

Made in England

Made in China

Made in England

India

MADE IN ENGLAND

ASOS MENSWEAR Item

Brief Description

The North Face ASOS SKINNY Overhead JEANS BLACK hoodie with logo

THE NORTH FACE SIKSILK CAMO FLYWEIGHT JOGGER PACKABLE CHINOS DUFFLE

NIKE MATCH UP POLO

Cost

£65

£25

£45

£60

£25

Fabric Composition

100% cotton

95% COTTON, 2% 100% NYLON ELASTANE

100% COTTON

COO

India

MADE IN ENGLAND

MADE IN CHINA

Comp shop summary In summary to this particular comp shop, I chose ASOS menswear, Urban Outfitters and Blacks the outdoor store to compare to Weavers door as each competitor sell the same style of garments, whether they are branded or simply fast fashion. Each competitor appeals to the same target market. In comparison to the other competitors, Weavers door sell more expensive designers, which could alter their specific target market to the mid – 20s male, whom is in a full time job as well as being on a higher wage. Weaver’s competitor, ASOS, on the other hand, sells own brand as well as designers, giving young men the option of adapting the same style as Weavers, yet at a cheaper price with ASOS own brand. ASOS, although on the internet, is a high competitor as it is extremely popular, and therefore appeals to the younger target market such as students whom can’t afford branded tshirts. In comparison to Urban Outfitters, this store also offers “urban renewal”, which is vintage clothing which has been renewed into a new item of clothing which can be purchased. This gives a sense of utter love of clothing from Urban Outfitters, a sense of which Weavers Door doesn’t create. Perhaps this is something Weavers Door could to compete with Urban Outfitters in the future. I also compared Weavers door to Blacks the Outdoor store as both stores sell brands such as Regatta. Blacks, though, has a lot of offers seasonally, which can be the cheaper option for students. As Weavers Door is an independent boutique, they can’t have as many sales as their competitors as they need to ensure they are making profits on the items they are selling.

TREND FORECASTING

Analysis Throughout my research of each section of the Pure trade show, which includes; ASPIRE, ALLURE, SPIRIT, PURE PREMIUM, FOOTWEAR and ACCESSORIES. It is noted that each have their own specific style. Aspire, for example, is edgy and chic, using wide smart trousers, as well as typically known as smart colours; navy, black, camel & nude tones. Allure, however, specialises in evening wear, including floor length gowns. Made from only premium fabrics, I have included a couple of images of gowns that flow with each movement of the modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arms. These are the types of gowns which would be used for red carpet events, perhaps even as prom dresses. Comparing each of these parts of the PURE tradeshow, they similarly include items which can be worn to a formal event, using premium fabrics. However, they differ by what each of them include as ranges. Aspire includes pants suits and two pieces, where Allure includes floor length gowns as well as body con lace dresses. Aspire is more practical and can be used as work wear. Spirit, on the other hand, is based on individuality, includes garments, targeting the market my womenswear range for Weavers Door will be targeted at. This range from Pure, includes jumpsuits, printed shorts, leopard and fur coats, aiming more at a younger consumer. Pure Premium is exactly as it says on the tin. Like Aspire, it includes clothing of a premium quality. The latest footwear included in the PURE range, includes leather shoes for women, as well as brogue style platforms. Both types of footwear will be included in the ranges I will be bringing to Weavers Door womenswear. The menswear footwear for Weavers Door will also include the menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footwear shown in the selection in PURE. They are smart brogues with an updated twist of a selection of different colours including ox blood and navy. The jewellery featured at PURE gives a sense of bohemian/festival chic. Each piece has intricate designs and would compliment a simple outfit such as a plain white t-shirt and jeans.

Comparing PURE to my ranges As previously stated in my analysis, the range “Spirit” includes garments which would compliment my future womenswear range for Weavers Door.

As you can see via the images, the image that is included in my concept and the image from the range “Spirit”, both have the same style of coat, as well as fur collaring.

As you can see via the images, the navy pair of men’s brogues are from the Weavers Door website. The tan coloured brogues are from the Pure Footwear range. Brogues are a classic piece of footwear which is constantly being reworked.

WOMENS WEAR TREND FORECASTING

ACTIVE FORECAST AW17/18: DESIGN MATTERS “Look good and do good.” One of the main trends for AW17/18 is sustainability. More people are wanting to know where their clothing is coming from. Using sustainable fabrics and turning them into casual performance pieces. This particular trend focuses on elevating timeless sport basics; which are becoming increasingly integrated and accepted as a part of day to day dressing; particularly in the work place. This trend of sustainability is where waste transforms into beauty; due to this, product life cycles are extending. Everyday shapes are being deconstructed and reconfigured to create new silhouettes, by using fewer materials, products become endlessly recyclable. The colours used for basics will be kept neutral, such as black, white and nude colours, for a more sophisticated look. The sustainability trend extends through to gym wear. The people wearing these garments consider themselves to be responsible with their sourcing of the items they purchase. Sourcing informs their choices. Unlike basics, this particular gym wear uses eco – friendly dying techniques, which enable the clothing to have heightened and playful bright colours. The styling of this trend is sport basics reworked, as it is now socially acceptable to be wearing sport wear during every day activities, not just attending the gym.

ACTIVE FORECAST AW17/18: NOCTURNE “Evening appeal”

The active market have reinterpreted the “Little Black Dress”, with sultry, after – dark designs for women’s performance wear. Materials used will be premium, the silhouettes sharper, this active wear is designed to transition from the gym to the club, or vice versa. The active wear will also include wearables taking jewellery forms, materials and surfaces having a luxurious finish. This trend embraces the darker and more mysterious corners of existence, making the boundaries blurred between night and day. It would bring monumental changes in how we define ourselves, and what we expect from the products we consume. Within this active trend, notions of fitness will be reset; as strong, not thin, becomes the new healthy. This trend would include a palette of darker tones, such as a purple that appears almost black. Eroding more boundaries between performance wear and fashion, transitions run smoothly from work to gym to the club.

ACCESSORIES AND FOOTWEAR FORECAST AW17/18: BLOCKED TWEED

Sophisticated heritage is a trend which has been a particular style among men since the war, however has recently surfaced for women within the past five years. Blocked tweed is an update on traditional conceptions of heritage country materials, woven tweeds will be used in new ways. This season will incorporate designs in pieced and offset compositions for winter. The colour pallet will include warm tones such as orange, which instantly gives an Autumnal feel. Neutral colours such as grey will also be used, as well as greens. Patterns used within is trend will include blocked and checked, giving a twist to the premium quality fabrics.

PRE FALL 2016: CALVIN KLEIN NEW YORK

In tune with fashion’s current overarching theme genderfluidity, Calvin Klein’s designer Francisco Costa mastered the play with the masculine and feminine. Inspired by English artist and sculptor Barbara Hepworth, whose work was showcased in an extensive retrospective at Tate modern earlier this year. He portrayed oversized silhouettes and curved hourglass shapes in a serene earthy colour palette, reminiscent of Hepworth’s curvaceous work. Tailored coats and jackets feature beautifully sculpted sleeves with raw inside out edges. A printed leather shearling coat, patent leather duffle and patent trench are among the standout key outerwear pieces in the line up. Lightweight cashmere’s and substantial wool in grey mélange cut in floor sweeping wide leg trousers, navel deep V-neck sweaters and oversized tailored coats in caramel exemplifies Modernism with Calvin Klein’s sophisticated Minimalist ease. The colour pallet of this particular collection includes caramel, grey melange, black, white & sand, neutral colours giving the garments a sophisticated edge. Fabrics include; silk viscose, leather, shearling, wool, patent leather and knits.

PRE FALL 2016: NO.21 PARIS

Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented a Pre-Fall collection that was as covetable as it was both enticing and creative. Quoted as saying he was intent on “breaking the rules” in his approach to the season. These are clothes for statement making with an urban sensibility; each piece incorporated some intricate attention to detail that rendered every silhouette appealing. Cabans were detailed with strips of velvet and grosgrain ribbons or appliqued with oversized sequins, cut to resemble feathers, while quilted wool coats were updated with insets of fur and shiny nylon sleeves; bows and stars were the de rigueur embellishment adorning footwear and sharp cocktail dresses. Here and there were quirky twists of unexpected colour in silk and lace dresses as the juxtaposition of masculine and feminine was cleverly rendered in sheepskin biker jackets along with the semblance of military styles paired with the sweetest of pleated dresses. The streetwear vibe continued throughout in covetable denim items, contributing to Dell’ Acqua’s presentation as a powerful combination of casual and chic pieces, rendering this season his most appealing yet.

PRE FALL 2016: BURBERRY PRORSUM LONDON

Burberry marches to a new beat for Pre-Fall as Christopher Bailey continues to draw on iconic pieces from past decades with the seventies remaining relevant in this luxurious presentation. Along with a nod to military influences, cropped jackets were emblazoned with brass buttons while a youthful play on military-esque pieces saw contrast piping and regimental topstitching feature strongly on slim tailored boot-cut trousers and ultra luxe sportswear. High belted trenches, capes, and Burberry cashmere coats were given just the right touch of military details.

TREND ALERT PRE FALL 2016: LEATHER JACKETS

You will always find a leather biker jacket trending on the catwalk and via street style due to its endless, classic look. Biker jackets were ubiquitous on the spring/summer 2016 catwalks, too. Louis Vuitton was a biker bonanza - the first look was a bubble-gum pink iteration, and it was followed by spray-painted, studded and belted versions, some sporting striped or monogrammed sleeves. "Biker jackets are one of our best performing categories and comprise 25 per cent of our jacket buy every season," says Linda Ayepe, a buyer at Net-APorter.com. "They're a great transitional piece and are key for layering with comfy knits. Saint Laurent's classic leather biker is one of the most sought after and they remain the go-to brand for different styles we love their fabulous fringed and striped versions currently on site."

TREND ALERT PRE FALL 16: URBAN BOOTS

Grunge and Urban street looks from AW 15/16 resurface for Pre â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fall 16. Lace combat boots are updated using a variety of sleek black leathers and menswear inspired upper materials. Such incredibly sturdy footwear is another nod to sophisticated heritage. When it comes to such statement pieces, quality trumps quantity. Such items are also incredibly versatile, they can go with khaki cargo pants, black culottes, jeans, dresses, the list could go on.

EUROPE COLOUR DIRECTION AW17/18: ARTISIAN

The image above is the first indication of the colours which will be used in AW16/17. As you can see, the colours range from cool, cold colours such as mint green through to light blue colours. There will also be light colours including colours such as nude, light and dark browns, which gives a whole new idea of winter colours. The typically used colours used for winter are your warm colours such as purples and reds etc. You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go wrong with such colours shown above, as they are incredibly versatile.

PRE FALL 2016: PHILLIP LIM NEW YORK

As you can see in the above images taken from Phillip Limâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new range for AW16/17, there is yet another nod to sophisticated heritage. However, this time, it is giving this trend a sheek new twist. Such as using a neck scarf to wrap around your chest, to accentuate your curves. The colours used for such items in his range are perfect for any season, not just AW16/17. The heavy coats featuring in the range, though, hint towards the season he is addressing.

ANALYSIS OF WOMENSWEAR TRENDS Due to a lot of sweatshops hitting the headlines in the local news, as well as more people turning against well known makeup brands for animal testing, more people are wanting to know where the garments they are purchasing have came from and how they were made. People are more willing to spend that extra few pounds or dollars etc., for quality clothing, which have been made the correct way, by workers whom are fairly treated. This is what one of the trends from WGSN is based on, sustainability. Each garment in the ranges produced will be made from sustainable materials which at the end of use, can be donated and made into something else, instead of dumped and never worn again. Another trend on WGSN, is a range called “NOCTURNE”, which is based on active wear to take you from the gym to a night out or vice versa. Focussing on dark colours and embellishments. This is due to people having packed schedules and wanting to do more with their time. The Calvin Klein Pre – Fall 2016 range has significantly stood out, as it includes a lot of long lined, smart coats, as well as long silhouettes such as tunics and long jumper dresses over wide trousers, showing no waistlines. NO.21 and Phillip Lim NY are designers which have shown sophisticated heritage influences, which is shown by the use of khaki and beige colours, as well as double breasted coats and high waisted, belted cargo pants.

MENSWEAR TREND FORECASTING

KEY ITEMS AW 17/18: MENS KNITWEAR

Oversized and relaxed proportions; a slouchy casual look is key for layered head to toe dressing giving a twist to youthful fashion led looks. Elongated lengths and rounded shapes add generosity to silhouettes. Heavier â&#x20AC;&#x201C; gauge casual knitwear takes on an enveloping rounded appearance, and the longer shape underpins the roll neck and crew tunic from previous seasons. Comfort and utility remain key for jersey items; vintage work wear influences give cut and sew items a functional, pared back feel, updated with soft and tactile yarn and piling effects.

TREND ALERT AW 16/17: LONDON

Life size photo prints create eye â&#x20AC;&#x201C; catching impact, as digital prints make a comeback for AW 16/17. From imploding cars to appropriated paintings, the theme nods to a sophisticated anarchy and adorns both tailored and oversized street wear silhouettes. Executed mostly in a dark palette with traces of metallic surfaces for a dose of futurism.

ACTIVE MEGA TRENDS AW16/17: OFFBEAT

The 1990â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s underpins this look, with iconic pieces revived and reinvented. Subtly augmented classic sport pieces such as Adidas jackets, are finely tweaked through a play on scale, colour, print and contemporary. The designs look familiar but feels sharp and modern, with the increased volume of a padded jacket.

AW 16/17: NIGEL CABOURN

Nigel Cabourn has used sophisticated heritage as inspiration for this trend forecasting. The classic navy look and layering shows this, and therefore will always have a place in menswear trends.

MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS AW 16/17: ARTISAN

Double breasted coats offer a smart look finish to any type of outfit. This, therefore, is a classic garment and key to any wardrobe. Whether it is made from cord, or any other type of fabric.

MEGA TRENDS AW16/17: ELEMENTAL

Drowning silhouettes is a popular trend for menswear. Its becoming more socially acceptable to wear comfortable clothing out and about, such as duvet looking, padded coats, are especially popular. Long lines in coats, over-shirts, layering and pants is the perfect outfit for winter.

MEGATRENDS AW16/17: ELEMENTAL

Originating from sailors and members of the Navy during the war, fish oil effect adds a certain glossy and polished look. This is a great trend for particularly men whom live in the United Kingdom – as there isn’t a day it doesn’t rain.

MEGATRENDS AW16/17: ELEMENTAL

Taking inspiration from the famous Nirvana look, 90â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grunge, is back with colour erosions on jumpers and t-shirts.

MEGATRENDS AW16/17: SOFT UTILITY

The line between work wear and relaxing wear is becoming more and more blurred due to this new trend. It is now more socially acceptable to go to work in a soft 100% cotton suit.

KEY ITEMS AW16/17 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HYBRID SHEARLING BIKER

The shearling biker is a classic look which has came back with a bang. It is continuously being re-worked and now has more a artillery look to it, such as being in the colour navy and having a belt around the waist.

ANALYSIS OF MENSWEAR TRENDS Whilst using all of the trend forecasting websites, and noting the new trends, there isn’t as much of a dramatic change each season, not as much as womenswear trend forecasting. The trends are just reworked versions of sophisticated heritage. However, there are new trends there if you are a man looking for them, and will be confident and outrageous enough to wear them. Trends such as “comfortable office wear”, referring to the “Casual Nike Suit”, is a dream for men whom hate wearing a suit or have to wear a suit everyday for work. This is a smart, yet, casual trend. Trends such as “drowning silhouettes”, is perfect for men whom love the layering trend, as the two compliment each other. There are also trends of which will always be repeated each year for Autumn/Winter, such as knitwear and double breasted coats. They are both incredibly classic and smarten up any casual look. Another trend which is included, reworked Adidas jackets, giving a classic item a complete rework by using outrageous block colours such as yellow with orange polka dots. As this trend has taken inspiration from the 1990’s, it’s similar to the other trend which has arisen from the same decade. Going to the complete opposite end of the spectrum, as this decade in particular had a lot of revelations in fashion, to which we are using to this day, is Grunge. The “colour erosion” trend refers to this decade.

CHILDREN’S WEAR TREND FORECASTING

GIRLS FOOTWEAR AW 17/18: POM POM SNEAKERS

Fendi have started something extraordinary with the “pom pom” craze. For children, “Pom Poms”, are the perfect addition to any footwear or as an accessory as a bag. It makes outfits more playful.

GIRLS APPAREL AW 17/18: CHUNKY CROP SWEATER

Chunky crop sweaters are a perfect addition to an outfit for the colder months. Layering is trend in itself. As well as adding warmth to an outfit, you will be able to see the rest of the outfit as the jumper is cropped.

KIDS MEGATRENDS AW16/17: PATCHWORK

Patchwork is a perfect trend for little boys. it gives a sense of country fashion, complimented by sand coloured chinos, a pair of boots and perhaps a parka coat.

KIDS MEGATRENDS AW16/17: OVERSIZED

As oversized has been such a big trend for Menswear and Womenswear, it is only natural for it to filter down into kidswear. More and more mums and dads over the years are starting to create “mini me’s”.

KIDS MEGATRENDS AW 16/17: COLOUR BLOCKING

Colour blocking is a trend for kidswear AW16/17. This trend adds a playful look to a cardigan or jumper for a new born up to any age.

KIDS MEGATRENDS AW16/17: ECCENTRIC ELECTRIC

Even after David Bowie’s passing, he was and still is a fashion icon and true fashion inspiration. Crazy patterns such as leopard prints and bright colour blocking isn’t for the faint hearted.

KIDS MEGATRENDS: ELEMENTAL AW 16/17

As you can see via the image, another trend of childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear is wool hats, which will reoccur every year. A beanie is great for putting on to keep yourself warm, especially for children.

KIDS MEGATRENDS: ARTISIAN AW 16/17

Another trend for children’s wear is the “country” look, as you can see by this image where a little girl is out exploring and has climbed a tree, showing that practical clothing such as gilets being used as layers in order to keep children warm as they play.

KIDS MEGATRENDS: ELEMENTAL AW 16/17

As you can see by the image above, parkas are also a trend for childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear this AW16/17. this will be a common occurrence each year as parkas are waterproof and can keep you warm in the worst of weathers.

KIDS MEGATRENDS: AW16/17

As you can see, the colours used in this image are also a trend for children’s wear AW16/17. although not typically colours used for children and they aren’t particularly playful, these are the types of colours I will be using in my children’s wear range due to the gender neutrality.

ANALYSIS OF CHILDREN’S WEAR

Due to the new social platforms such as social media, there are more and more parents whom care about what their children look like and what they wear. Gone are the days of a child being able to wear their favourite superhero costume to go shopping to the Tesco, parents are now creating “mini me’s”, and most of the time the children look adorable – but there are always some parents whom take it to the extreme and take it too far. There are some trends which can be used in creating a “mini me”, such as the “patchwork” trend as well as the “oversized” trend. However, most parents just want their children to look their age and to have fun with their clothes, such as the trend of “pom pom shoes”, and “colour blocking”, create a playful look for children.

Why do we trend forecast? Trend forecasting is a vital part of each sector within the fashion industry. We trend forecast in order to stay on top of the new up and coming trends for the foreseeable future. If you trend forecast, you will be able to compete with your competitors, as a business, you wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to miss something your competitors have in their stores. However, not every business has the time or utilities to trend forecast for each season, every year, two years in advance. This is where websites like WGSN, whom have professional trend forecasters who look for particular developments in each department â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as menswear, womenswear, denim, tops and shoes etc. There are also fashion magazines and journalists whom report on street style and fashion weeks in order to inform people interested in the latest fashion trends. Fashion trend forecasting resources help predict trends in the fashion industry. Fashion & trend forecasting is the prediction of mood, behaviour and buying habits of the consumer at particular time of season. It is no longer a question of finding your markets or consumers by age, geography or income, but looking into how and what they buy, based on their culture, mood, beliefs, occasion & geographic locations, it is also dependent on fashion cycle and plays a major role in introductory phase of recurring fashion cycles.

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http://exposurestyle.blogspot.co.uk/

Directional Shop camel mini roll beanie Price: £8.00

navy double pocket long sleeve casual overshirt Price: £35.00

grey melange backpack Price: £20.00 grey faux leather trainers with contrast heel Price: £28.00

tan leather brogue boots Price: £55.00

green tartan long sleeve casual shirt Price: £32.00

grey crew neck t-shirt Price: £7.00

hype khaki coach jacket Price: £50.00

Directional Shop tortoise shell sunglasses Price: £12.00 80% Hard Plastic, 20% Metal

black plimsolls Price: £26.00 Reflector Shoe Black faux leather plimsolls with self coloured laces on a black rubber sole with tag detail to back counter. 100% Polyurethane

Nicce blue parka jacket Price: £120.00 100% Cotton

navy stretch twill skinny chino Price: £30.00 100% Cotton

indigo essential crew jumper Price: £20.00 100% cotton

Rust suede bomber jacket £150

ANALYSIS OF DIRECTIONAL SHOP

For my directional shop for this unit, I have selected the retailer Topman. This is due to how both Topman and Weavers Door are competitors, by having the same type of target market. Through this particular task, I selected items from Topman such as the brown brogues, similar to those sold in the independent boutique, Weavers Door. As I have compared both prices and the quality of both similar pairs of brogues sold at Topman and Weavers Door, it has been noted how significantly cheaper Topman is that Weavers Door. However, if quality is what you’re looking for, Weavers Door wins hands down. After this particular directional shop, even though both retailers are targeting the same consumer – Weavers Door is mostly aimed at the type of consumer that can afford to spend £200 on a pair of brogues. The type of consumer which shops at Topman, although fashion conscious, doesn’t have that type of money to spare on a pair of shoes.

PESTLE

Political

This image shows the current National Minimum Wage & previous years.

Within any working establishment, workers have to, by law, have to be receiving the National Minimum Wage. If you are the owner of an “Independent Boutique”, it is up to your discretion to decide whether you will be paying your employees the National Minimum Wage or more. The above article, addresses a change to the National Minimum Wage, where an additional 20p had been added to the hourly rate. Although this doesn’t sound like much money, of course, money adds up, especially for small businesses such as Independent Boutiques. They may not be able to afford any more pay rises in the National Minimum Wage, therefore this would affect the business as a whole, which may lead to reducing employment.

Economics As an independent boutique; you will want to be just as good, if not better than your competitors. Due to technology now, there is a wider target market; customers come from all over the world. It is now possible to ship goods across countries, in and outside the EU. However, just as any other retailer, independent boutiques will have to abide by the laws in their own country as well as the countries they are shipping to. The owner of the independent retailer would have to find the correct “commodity code” for the goods which they’re shipping. They would also ensure they pay V.A.T, as well as fill in a V.A.T return if the independent retailer is registered for it. They would also have to register with the “CHIEF” systems for importing from outside of the EU. Through this system, you would also have to declare the goods you are wishing to import. The owner wishing to import would also have to pay the duty in some cases, as well as ensure if they need a licence for any particular goods, during this, they should also find out if the goods are banned from being imported into the UK or any other country, or whether they require an import licence. However, if this independent retailer has no idea where to start, some businesses use freight forwarding agents to help with importing procedures. You can also hire a professional; such as a tax adviser for advice on import duties and V.A.T. Exporting is also a requirement if you are wanting to send goods to customers in different countries. Such as sending goods and services to EU countries; you don’t have to pay duty and there will be no custom check. Sending goods within the EU is known where goods are in “good circulation”. When it comes to pay V.A.T on dispatches within the EU, you will have to ensure all sold goods are recorded on your V.A.T return. You would also have to fill in an EC sales list. You would have to fill in an intrastate declaration if your total dispatches are worth more than £250,000. You will also have to take into consideration paying VAT on services within the EU. You would need to charge V.A.T at UK rates on most services to non – business customers in the EU. However, if you are supplying services to another business customer – you don’t charge V.A.T. The customer is responsible for paying V.A.T in their own country.

This is an image of the recently updated exchange rates.

There are particular factors which influence the exchange rates. One of which is determined by the supply and demand for the currency, if there is a greater demand for Pound Sterling, it would cause the value to increase. As an independent retailer, when you are importing and exporting goods across the world; you have to take into consideration the exchange rates. This is due to stock being a particular price in Pounds Sterling, will be more expensive in Euro due to the exchange rate at this current time.

This is an image of the recent stock markets.

“Stock market” is an everyday term used to talk about a place where stocks and bonds are “traded”. For many people; the first thing that comes to mind when they think of the stock market is investing. The goal is to buy stock, hold it for a time; and then sell it for more than what you paid for it. “Stocks” are units of the ownership in a company. Companies sell their stocks to get money to; research better ways to make things, new products, to improve the tools they have, hire more employees or to enlarge or modernise buildings. When you become a share holder, you own a “part” of a company. If the company’s profits go up, your “shares” expand in those profit. Stock prices rise and fall everyday, if you sold your stock on a day when the price of that stock falls below the price you paid for it, you would lose money. Therefore can affect small businesses such as independent boutiques, if the value of small businesses collapses or particular materials used in garments lost their value.

Social As an employer for your independent boutique, you will have to abide by the law for workers. This includes workers whom are over the age of 18 are entitled to three types of breaks. Rest breaks at work, a daily rest and a weekly rest. During their shift, workers have the right to one uninterrupted 20 minute break during a working day, if they work more than 6 hours a day. Workers also have the right to 11 hours rest between their working days, e.g. if they finish work at 8pm, they shouldn’t start working again until 7am the following day. As the employer, if those conditions aren’t met, you would be prosecuted, which could inevitably bring the boutique to closure.

As previously stated, more and more people are wanting to know where the garments they are purchasing come from and what they are made of. More environmentally conscious. Therefore each retailer needs to have some ethical policies put in place. Ethical trading means ensuring factories which make garments and products have responsible labour and health and safety practices. Principles set need to be on: - Employment of appropriate workers - Workplace safety - Pay and hours - Respect for individuals - Environmental standards - Ethical standards - Trade unions - Inspection requirements As the owner of an independent boutique, you will have a particular target market. You will be stocking your boutique of designers which attract your potential customer. Therefore, you will have to ensure that you position your boutique where it will be seen, or in an area where your particular target market is likely to live or shop. For example, you wouldn’t put a high end designer store, such as Reiss in the Camden Borough of London. If you were to incorrectly position your boutique, your store wouldn’t be as successful and therefore would lead to closures.

Field research: Camden Market, Camden Borough, London

Technology

Technology is forever developing, its fascinating to know that there will be jobs in 10 years that don’t even exist yet – due to technology. There has been a particular development in technology which also contributes to fashion retail. 3D Body Scanning. This includes 3D garments, which will include quality 3D pattern software which allows the visualization of any garment pattern in 3D, which will be based on real fabric characteristics. 3D Visual Try On, which allows customers to try on clothes at their own time, in their own sizes and on any connected device. 3D Mirrors, customers will be able to try on clothes in a retail store without having to undress thanks to the use of “magic mirrors”. Although this is an unbelievable development in fashion and technology, this could affect small independent boutiques who mightn’t have the money to be buying 3D scanners or “Magic Mirrors”. Yes, they will be able to compete with competitors where apps are concerned, as well as social media presence. However in the long term, in 10 years, 3D will be more beneficial and therefore will only develop more as time goes on. Compete in a more bespoke way, individual

Legal

When is comes to being a consumer, it’s a known saying that the “customer is always right”. It is always helpful to know what your rights are. Via the screenshotted article above, the BBC in 2009 has listed 5 consumer laws everyone should know; -Sales of Goods Act -Consumer Credit Act -Supply of goods and services -Denied Boarding Regulations -Distance Selling Regulations As a sales advisor, you are told rules and regulations to go by during your training, and therefore there shouldn’t be any wrong doing when it comes to serving customers.

Environmental H&M is one of the main High St brands which is known for their environmental consciousness. One of the qualities of H&M that stands out is how they have a box at the side of each till of every store, for people to donate a bag of old clothing which will be recycled into new clothing. People who do this also receive a voucher for £5 off their next shop in-store. H&M also have a collection called the “conscious collection”, where each garment is made out of recycled materials, and sustainable materials such as 100% cotton. H&M hope to reduce the impacts fashion has on the planet piece by piece. Animal Welfare is also something H&M take into consideration as well as the environment. Things such as Animal hair, it is to have full traceability of all animal hair such as cashmere, mohair and alpaca. It will require that all farms follow the requirements presented in the animal welfare guidelines, The Five Freedom Free work. Their animal welfare policies include: •The first step is about creating a closer relationship with our suppliers and the farms producing our animal derived materials. This way, we can educate and engage the farmers to meet our requirements. •Another important step is to raise the general awareness about animal welfare issues – both among our suppliers and the farmers but also customers and colleagues. •Gaining full traceability throughout the supply chain is just as essential and there is a need for involving our suppliers and their sub-suppliers in this work but we must also team up with credible traceability companies that can help us verify the source. •Finally, collaboration with others, such as Humane Society International, is crucial in order to create real change across the entire industry. For example, there is an urgent need to push for improvements of animal welfare legislation in many countries today.

Sourcing decisions How will factors in the PESTLE influence buying decisions? Political As a buyer, I will have to ensure that I follow all trade restrictions and regulations, as if any are changed or new regulations come into action, this could affect my buying decisions and sourcing. For example, if there was a new law brought into action about liaising with Asian suppliers, I would therefore have to find another supplier to produce what Asian countries have been supplying. Another political factor which would influence buying decisions would be changed or new conservation policies, with regards to textiles, such as cotton and silk. WWF and BCI have teamed up to try to reduce the t-shirts carbon footprint, as well as to make cotton production better for the people who produce it, its better for the environment it grows in and better for the sectors future. This, therefore would affect my buying decisions by ensuring that the company I work for and any other suppliers whom I am liaising with are taking part in this great scheme on preserving cotton and the environment.

Sourcing decisions How will factors in the PESTLE influence buying decisions? Economic As a buyer, you have to ensure that while you are liaising with suppliers, the price of the garments of what you are purchasing and anything else such as shipping, is agreed. However, if the prices of textiles or petrol rises, this would affect a lot of buying decisions. This rise in price would have a big affect on the budget of which you have as a buyer, which will therefore have an affect on how much you sell the garments for as you will want to make profit on the items, which could then inevitably give your competitors the upper hand on having the same quality clothing, for a cheaper price.

Article on the latest developments in Bangladesh

Disasters such as what happened in the Rana Plaza would have had a great impact on buying decisions and the responsibilities of buyers. The United Kingdom has an action plan on business and human rights, by engaging with the government of Bangladesh and UK companies and their supply chains, in order to help address key human rights risks. These risks are also expected to be inspected within each factory used by retailers and potential suppliers to avoid disasters with such devastating results. On a practical level, the UK, through DFID, is providing up to £4.8 million for a three-year programme by the International Labour Organisation to support the National Action Plan on Fire Safety and Structural Integrity. This support will allow for the inspection of approximately 1,500 factories that are not covered under the new international fashion retailers’ and brands’ initiative, the strengthening of the labour inspection regime, the provision of safety awareness training for factory workers and managers, the launch of the “Better Work” programme in Bangladesh, and help for victims in recovering from these disasters.

Sourcing decisions How will factors in the PESTLE influence buying decisions? Social

When it comes to social issues, protests come to mind. Protesting could make a huge affect on buying decisions due to the materials suppliers could be using. If the company which I am working for insists on real fur or leather, this could create a huge backlash from protestors and animal rights activists. This, therefore would have a huge effect on profits and sales. To prevent these types of protests, you could use faux materials.

Sourcing decisions How will factors in the PESTLE influence buying decisions?

Technology As a buyer, I will have to interact with potential suppliers via Skype if there is no way of getting to where the supplier takes place at a specific time. Technology has impacted the buying role greatly, and this is due to people now being able to order clothing online, which, therefore as a buyer, I would have to ensure I have bought in enough garments for this. Going by the previous PESTLE, technology is developing to the point where in the near future, customers are going to be able to try on the clothes they like â&#x20AC;&#x201C; virtually. This, therefore creates more of a job for the buyer in the aspect of buying in enough garments to suit this new development.

The screen shot above is showing the developments within Skype. Group video calling would be helpful as a buyer, as not all of the teams from head office are going to be together at all times. This is a way for all teams to liaise with each other easier and no one will miss any details.

Sourcing decisions How will factors in the PESTLE influence buying decisions?

Legal As a buyer, I would have to ensure that any prints or fabrics used aren’t copyrighted. This is due to previous incidents with retailers such as Topshop, whom used a print of Rihanna’s face on a t-shirt without her permission, therefore Rihanna was getting no money from this and sued the company. Something like this, as a buyer you will have to ensure that you research any symbols and what they mean – or whether they would offend any potential customers.

Sourcing decisions How will factors in the PESTLE influence buying decisions?

Environmental Any natural disasters created by the universe are unavoidable. However, if the crop is destroyed, which your supplier is depending on, such as cotton, this would affect the garments in your range being made. Therefore, the range wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be in the retailer or where it needs to be in time, which will inevitably lead to loss in profits and custom. As a buyer, I would have to ensure I have back up suppliers or multiple suppliers when creating a range and wanting it delivered to a place at a certain time. I would also have to ensure that any of my suppliers arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t particularly in a vulnerable part of the world â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as places in America are more prone to earth quakes or hurricanes.

How does the pestle (external factors) impact on my sourcing decisions?

On September 11, 2001, 19 militants associated with the Islamic extremist group al-Qaeda hijacked four airliners and carried out suicide attacks against targets in the United States. Two of the planes were flown into the towers of the World Trade Centre in New York City, a third plane hit the Pentagon just outside Washington, D.C., and the fourth plane crashed in a field in Pennsylvania. Often referred to as 9/11, the attacks resulted in extensive death and destruction, triggering major U.S. initiatives to combat terrorism and defining the presidency of George W. Bush. Over 3,000 people were killed during the attacks in New York City and Washington, D.C., including more than 400 police officers and firefighters. This type of disaster would have affected all of the sourcing decisions for the buyers in the United States, due to high security alerts, it would have taken produce significantly longer to get through the borders as everything will have been getting inspected. As well as devastation, there will have been a sense of paranoia, of which buyers in the United States and across the world, would be thinking twice about foreign suppliers and their intentions.

What external aspects would impact your choice of a supplier? Natural Disasters A natural disaster is an event with a natural, as opposed to human, cause that results in large-scale loss of life or damage to property. It could be related to weather, geology, biology or even factors outside the Earth. Examples are earthquakes, hurricanes, droughts and flooding. Disease epidemics are sometimes considered natural disasters, but may be put into a different category. In some cases, natural and human factors may combine to produce a disaster. Loss of crops could be a result of a natural disaster. The action taken after this would be to find another city or country which can produce the same crop or product. However, due to it being a â&#x20AC;&#x153;natural disasterâ&#x20AC;?, insurance companies are less likely to cover any loss or damage. Another result of the natural disaster could be the country you have chosen to replace your original supplier; could create worse quality garments. Therefore you could see a loss in profits. Local Disasters Local disasters is another type of disaster which has to be taken into account. Local disasters include distressing events such as fires. The action taken after such an event, as a buyer, you would have no choice but to find another supplier for your produce. A result of this would also be to ensure the victims of the fire received some type of support or counselling. The company whom is in charge of the building which has undergone this disaster would be liable.

What external aspects would impact your choice of a supplier? Epidemics An epidemic is a disease that spreads rapidly among many people in a community at the same time. This includes diseases such as “Swine Flu” and “Bird Flu”. If this was to destroy animals that are used for materials such as fur or leather, there would have to be a decision made for whether to look for another farm in another country which hasn’t been affected by the disease, or whether to use faux. You would also have to ensure that you are continuously researching so that you are aware of any more developments. A result of this type of disaster could be that your potential consumers mightn’t want any real fur or leather in case any of it is carrying the disease etc. War/Conflicts A war is a state of armed conflict between different countries or different groups within a country. This is type of disaster would affect a buyers produce. Importing and exporting with suppliers would be cut off, and as each country is known for its own produce, for example, India is known for embellished garments, and they were having a war, it would be impossible to liaise with any Indian suppliers. Therefore the result of this would be garments not having the intricate detail you may have wanted for your range. Cost The prices of produce and everything else is constantly rising and decreasing, and is impossible to keep up with. However, if there is was a significant drop in the price of oil, for example, petrol would cost less, and therefore customers would have more money and therefore would be able to buy more clothing. However, if there was a significant rise in the cost of materials etc., as a buyer, you would have less of a budget to purchase your range with, the cost prices would increase, and as a result of this, the RRP would be a higher price when the garments are in store.

Cambodia In the garment industry, violence and exploitation are pretty much the norm, experienced by workers in various ways. In many cases, workers sweating in global garment factories are migrants coming from rural areas, “ejected” from their villages by poverty, unemployment or landlessness, with the hope of a better future for their families. In many cases they are young women, passing from the hands of the family patriarch to those of the market patriarch, who loves the lower wages they are willing to accept. Once in the factories, they face harsh and intense working conditions and extremely low wages. In Cambodia, workers are fighting for their labour rights and livelihoods on the streets, demanding a fairer compensation for their sweat. After all, it is their sweat – along with that of other Asian, Latin American, or African workers – that clothes the world. In response to their demands, they have been shot and beaten on those streets by their governments. H&M is one of the known high street brands which have been named as one of the worst sweatshops to work in. They have announced that they are attempting to resolve the matter of unliveable wages by 2018.

http://www.h uffingtonpost. com/2015/01/ 28/sweatshop -realityshow_n_65554 36.html

Bangladesh The Rana Plaza disaster completely shook the garment industry and highlighted many problems of which people in western countries try to avoid talking about. On April 24, 2013, the Rana Plaza building came crashing down, killing 1,134 people and leaving thousands more injured. People all across the world looked on in shock and horror as media reports poured in revealing the true extent of the human toll. There were harrowing stories of survival, of people who had no choice but to amputate their own limbs in order to be freed from the rubble and survive. At least 29 global brands had recent or current orders with at least one of the five garment factories in the Rana Plaza building. Each of these brands took part in the creation of an environment that led to the deaths and maiming of thousands of individuals.

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/jun/01/ rana-plaza-collapse-dozens-charged-withmurder-bangladesh

Fairtrade Fairtrade is an organisation that is about better prices, decent working conditions and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers. When you buy products with the FAIRTRADE mark, you support farmers and workers as they work to improve their lives and their communities. The mark also means that the Fairtrade ingredients in the product have been produced by a small – scale farmer organisations or plantations that meet Fairtrade social, economic and environmental standards. The standards include protection of workers’ rights and the environment, payment of the Fairtrade Minimum Price and an additional Fairtrade Premium to invest in business or community projects.

Child Labour Child labour is work that harms children or keeps them from attending school. Around the world and in the U.S., growing gaps between rich and poor in recent decades have forced millions of young children out of school and into work. The International Labour Organization estimates that 215 million children between the ages of 5 and 17 currently work under conditions that are considered illegal, hazardous, or extremely exploitative. Child labour involves at least one of the following characteristics: • Violates a nation’s minimum age laws • Threatens children’s physical, mental, or emotional well-being • Involves intolerable abuse, such as child slavery, child trafficking, debt bondage, forced labour, or illicit activities • Prevents children from going to school • Uses children to undermine labour standards

Working conditions Your working conditions are affected by factors including health and safety, security and working hours. Poor working conditions can damage your health and put your safety at risk. Your employer is legally responsible for ensuring good working conditions, but you also have a responsibility to work safely. Under the law, employers must: • decide what could harm you in your job and take precautions to stop it; • explain how risks will be controlled and tell you who is responsible for this; • give you the training and information you need to do your job safely; • provide you with any equipment and protective clothing you need and ensure it is maintained; • provide toilets, washing facilities and drinking water; • provide first aid facilities; • record injuries, diseases and dangerous incidents at work and report these to the Health and Safety Executive where relevant; • have insurance that covers you in case you get hurt at work or ill through work; • work with anyone sharing the workplace or anyone who is providing employees (such as agency workers), so that everyone’s health and safety is protected.

Carbon Footprint A carbon footprint is measured in tonnes of carbon dioxide equivalent (tCO2e). The carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e) allows the different greenhouse gases to be compared on a like – for – like basis relative to one unit of CO2. CO2e is calculated by multiplying the emissions of each of the six greenhouse gases by its 100 year global warming potential (GWP). A carbon footprint considers all of six of the Kyoto Protocol greenhouse gases: carbon dioxide (CO2), Methane (CH4), Nitrous oxide (N2O), Hydro fluorocarbons (HFCs), Perfluorocarbons (PFCs) and Sulphur hexafluoride (SF6).

What is Balanced Sourcing? Balanced sourcing is when a buyer balances orders between two or more suppliers to reduce the dependency and minimise risks. Key considerations that should be built into a sourcing strategy: - Changes in the retail market - Brand positioning (A fashion focus will be led by the need for innovation and R&D, fast turnaround, an effective design process with high hit rates, and a vendor relationship focused on innovation A quality focus will be driven, technical innovation, fabrics and quality control. A cost focus will require tight management of critical paths to avoid extra costs, manufacturing efficiencies, engineering designers to a tight budget, and visibility to all information across supply chain) - Cost factors - Non cost factors - Sourcing channels - Sourcing countries - Overseas sourcing offices - Selecting and optimising channels - Balanced portfolio of suppliers - Sourcing strategy in practice

Single Sourcing Single sourcing is when a retailer has one main supplier. Advantages of this includes reduced shipping, this is due only having one main supplier, therefore you wouldn’t have to pay for shipping from multiple suppliers. Another advantage includes having a good relationship with your supplier, you and the supplier would be comfortable with each other and therefore would have an idea of what each of you expect with regards to materials etc., as the supplier also knows you personally, they could also offer you better deals than if you were using multiple suppliers. There would also be consistent quality, this quality would ensure your return to the supplier each season. Due to returning each season, the supplier could also ensure you have sampling and ordering priority. Another advantage would be no out – sourcing to unknown suppliers, as well as better monitoring of staff, this would enable better staff conditions. Disadvantages include having limited methods of production; there would be no way of finding out anything new, this would need your own personal research. You would also become dependant on this one supplier, would have to look for a new supplier if a disaster struck your regular supplier. These external threats could affect the entire supply chain of the supplier and potential retailers.

Focussed Sourcing Focussed sourcing includes having a variety of suppliers. Advantages to having “focussed sharing” includes being able to negotiate a cheaper price with individual suppliers as you could compare their existing prices are too much compared to your other suppliers. If a problem was to arise with one of the suppliers, it wouldn’t have too much of an effect of product production as you would have other suppliers. Disadvantages to having “focussed sharing” includes the shipping times could be longer as each supply could be coming from different parts of the world or country. The quality could also be affected due to having different suppliers.

Arcadia

Arcadia do not own or operate any factories, they ensure they have strong working relationships with a network of international suppliers. Of which, 60% of their suppliers have been supplying for Arcadia for three or more years. Arcadia manufacture in approximately 985 factories through 766 suppliers. Their top 20 suppliers provide 44% of their goods. Arcadia’s ethical trading work is wide ranging, multi – layers and involves different stakeholders. There have been a number of on – going areas of activity, many of which have seen progress this year, including; Ethical Audit programme This programme ensures that if there is an audit of a supplier or factory graded red, Arcadia will not use the factory until the issues flagged have been solved. “Red flags” include serious breaches of their code of conduct and local laws, such as non – payment of minimum wage or locked fire exits. Arcadia have reviewed 1,269 ethical audits for all brands. Country risk assessments While Bangladesh was rightly being the focus of efforts to improve worker safety in recent times, Arcadia have scrutinised a number of sourcing locations. Arcadia remains committed to it’s role in driving safely and sustainability within the Bangladesh Ready – Made Garment (RMG) industry, having signed the accord on fire and building safety in Bangladesh. Arcadia are remaining mindful of the need to carefully prioritise, monitor and respond to issues in all sourcing countries.

Trade shows What is a trade show? A trade show is an exhibition organized so that companies in a specific industry can showcase and demonstrate their latest products, service, study activities of rivals and examine recent market trends and opportunities. Trade shows for the fashion industry include; yarn trade shows, textile trade shows and branded trade shows. This is where people whom work in the fashion industry get the first look of how the next years season is going to look and what it is going to include, it’s an alternative to fashion shows. Yarn Presenting world-scale excellence in yarns to its audience of international buyers and designers from the biggest names in fashion who come to Florence looking for creative inspiration, in a unique atmosphere that makes doing business a pleasure, offering a new, original entertaining take on the many ways that fashion, art, sport and design come together. Textile Creating a premier vision in places such as Paris, Moscow, New York, Sao Paulo and Shanghai during early February and September. Textile Trade Shows are perfect for designers and fast fashion suppliers to have a glimpse of what is new in fabrics and textiles. Branded Held during February and August, branded trade shows show the collections for the following year’s Spring/Summer. Including events such as catwalk shows, industry talks, buying tips and season highlights. An example of branded buying is “Pure” and “Stitch”.

Womenswear trade shows

Buyers for womenswear come together within these trade shows to bid on the latest textiles and materials.

Womenswear trade shows are vital to the retail industry as this is where buyers and designers discover more ideas and where they can become inspired for new ranges. It is also a chance to be tactile with materials, this is due to now being able to view trends online and speak to suppliers via Skype, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s less of a chance to be tactile and actually feel the fabrics you will be using for your range.

Kidswear trade shows

Not a lot of trade shows include Kidswear, this is due to not having such a high demand, as obviously children arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as demanding as grown women and men when it comes to clothing. Plus the fact they grow at an extremely fast rate!

However, when children's wear is included in the trade show, you can expect to find the latest trends and textiles.

Menswear trade shows

The tradeshow which takes place in Las Vegas, is called Magic. It is one of the most popular and has the most exclusive textiles and inspiration for new ranges and ideas for designers.

As you scroll through the website, it is similar layout to if you were actually at the show. Each show has a theme for each category. This theme is called â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Tentsâ&#x20AC;? for menswear.

As you can see in the print screen on the left, there is a number and email address to contact the supplier or designer if you like what you see.

TRADE SHOW QUESTIONS Compare and contrast appropriate sources of fabrics and garments. Are these appropriate? As a buyer, there are numerous fabrics and garments available to create your vision of a range. Sources of fabrics can include sustainable fabrics; Organic cotton: Wear Organic is a project s a campaign run by the Pesticide Action Network UK (PAN UK). It aims to reduce the problems caused by pesticides used particularly in cotton and promotes organic and fair trade alternatives. It provides information for consumers on the environmental impacts of fabric production. Organic cotton garments are likely to be free from chlorine bleaches and synthetic dyes. Hemp is a thoroughly ecological crop: highly productive, easy to cultivate and pest tolerant, so needing few or no agrochemicals whilst at the same time binding and enriching the soil with its deep roots. It is a traditional fibre, that went out of favour in the 1930s for political reasons, rather than practical ones. It is now at long last undergoing something of a revival: Hemp clothing specialists include The Hemp Store, and The Hemp Trading Company, which offers ‘skatewear, boardwear, streetwear, clubwear’. Hemp yarn is available from the House of Hemp whose website contains a lot of useful information on hemp generally. Note: agricultural hemp, though versatile and productive as a fibre, oil and food plant, is useless as a narcotic! Bamboo is the latest plant material to hit the eco-friendly fabrics market. It is described as hypoallergenic, absorbent, fast-drying and naturally anti-bacterial and comes from a very fast-growing plant. It’s not all good though, there are some concerns over the chemicals used in its processing, however less pesticides and fertilisers are used, and it is still a sustainable choice compared to most other fabrics. Bam Bamboo Clothing is a UK manufacturer specialising in bamboo clothing but increasingly other clothing suppliers are stocking bamboo fabric goods. Linen is made from flax, another traditional fibre crop which needs few chemical fertilisers, and less pesticide than cotton. Organic wool is increasingly becoming available: it is produced using sustainable farming practises and without toxic sheep dips. Cornish Organic Wool source organic wool from local farmers who are Soil Association accredited or certified with Organic Farmers & Growers Ltd (OF&G). They supply knitting kits and spun wool. Recycled polyester Look out for full-on, hi-tech fleece jackets made from recycled drinks bottles, e.g. some outdoor fleece products by Patagonia. (Patagonia also offer a recycling service for their Capilene base layers, via their Common Threads garment recycling scheme.) Outdoor gear company VauDe’s Ecolog range is both recycled and fully recyclable – everything, down to the zips and buttons, is 100% polyester. VauDe established the Ecolog Recycling Network for complete recycling of pure polyester materials in 1996. Even some hi-tech waterproofs can potentially be recycled – if facilities exist. These include water-based coatings (applied without harmful solvents) and membranes such as Sympatex, which is 100% polyester. Avoid PVC, laminates and polyurethane. These types of fabrics would be suitable for certain garments in my range, such as parka coats, waterproof jackets, pants and t-shirts. As a buyer, you have to ensure that you are picking the best type of fabrics for your garments, and if you have picked a sustainable fabric, this also creates a good image for the retailer whom you’re buying ranges for.

TRADE SHOW QUESTIONS Compare and Contrast sourcing from trade shows in the UK to factories abroad. As a buyer, you have the option of whether you are going to source your fabrics for the range you are creating, from either overseas or the United Kingdom. One of the advantages of sourcing from overseas is the cost, offshore production is generally more cost – effective, especially when producing large volumes of stock. Production costs will vary from country to country. Another advantage is machinery and technology, unfortunately there has been a lack of investment in manufacturing for many years in the UK, and offshore factories are more likely to have the most up – to – date machinery and CAD/CAM systems. This is particularly applicable to accessory and shoe production. Another advantage to sourcing from abroad is the large pool of skilled labour. Some countries still have a pool of skilled labour of specialist workers, particularly in craft areas and embellishment. If the process is time – consuming, with cheaper labour you are able to be far more adventurous as a buyer. One of the disadvantages of sourcing from overseas is the quality control of the garments being produced. It is harder for the buyer to control the production, and money will have to be put aside from the budget for the buyer to pay for expenses to visit the factory to which the produce is being made. Communication is another disadvantage, as if you can’t speak any other language than English, you will need English speaking staff, would it be easy for you to communicate what you want to the workers constructing the range for you? You would also have to take into consideration the time differences and whether they have good internet connection to be able to communicate when you can’t be there. Logistics is also another disadvantage. If you are having samples made overseas you will have to allow for the courier costs of sending raw materials or samples back and forth. Some of this would be avoided if the factory are sourcing materials locally for you. When working out your production schedule, you must allow for shipping time (which could be several weeks), and also be prepared for production getting delayed or goods stuck in customs. Transport, delivery and insurance costs will also need to be factored in. When it comes to sourcing from trade shows in the United Kingdom, an advantage to this is having a label on items saying “Made in UK”, this instantly adds value to your items and the brand. Although the costs would be higher than sourcing from overseas, you would have more control over them and they won’t fluctuate. Unlike when sourcing overseas, you may not be able to communicate what you want to the suppliers, you will always be able to communicate with the UK supplier. Scheduling is also another advantage as unlike when sourcing overseas you will have to allow for shipping time, sourcing from the United Kingdom you will be able to produce orders more quickly as you wouldn’t have to allow for this extra shipping time. Delivery costs would also be kept to a minimum, as well as not needing to worry that your goods could get stuck at customs.

TRADE SHOW QUESTIONS Where will you choose to source your fabrics and garments for your ranges? During this research of trade shows, I have come to the conclusion that it is always best to try to source from the United Kingdom as much as you can, as a buyer. This is due to how much money you save on shipping costs, as well as keeping in mind how much fuel you would avoid using, unlike if you were to ship over a range from Bangladesh. As I am sourcing my fabrics such as wool and knitted fabrics from the United Kingdom, I will always have an idea of how they are being produced, and I will always have a say in what changes need to be made to the range, if any. There would also be less of a risk of my goods becoming damaged in shipping, or during manufacturing, due to places overseas which are prone to natural disasters. On the other hand, though, it is an advantage to source from overseas when you require synthetic fabrics for your range.

Customer Profile

This is Katie. She is a full time Visual Merchandiser in Topshop. She loves to keep up with the latest trends and isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afraid of going too outrageous with her clothes. Her favourite style, though, is mostly classic vintage. She would much rather quality over quantity. She loves going out with her friends and meeting new people. Katie loves spending time with her family and doing any extra work or reading in Leaf, the coffee shop on Bold St.

Range Analysis

Within this range, I have tried to capture the essence of the existing Weavers Door style they aim for. I feel I have achieved this by mixing parkas with jogger bottoms within the range. I have included a wool, double breasted coat, as well as a waterproof, lighter alternative, which could transition consumers through from Autumn/Winter to Spring. Both coats are of a classic style which would last for a good while due to the quality. I have also included a specific pattern, gingham, which is consistent throughout the range. I have also included shirts within the range, which would be made of cotton, and could be worn to smarten up an outfit, and could be worn under the slip dresses within the range, too. I have selected for my range to vary in price, depending on the quality. Such as the wool coat would be priced at £300. The joggers would be priced at £80, and so on. Whomever is shopping within Weavers Door is shopping for quality, and that’s what they will get.

Customer profile analysis

I have decided to create a range for the existing customer of Weavers Door. This is due to how successful they are as a business as how much of a strong following they have. This could be due to how they post on Instagram their latest deliveries, as well as using regular lads as models, as that is whom they are targeting. As the sales advisors whom work there are young, and like to use the social platforms â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this increases the knowledge of Weavers Door as a business. As without this, you wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know where Weavers Door is in the city centre as you have to be looking for Cavern Walks, where it is situated.

Range Analysis

Within this range, I have selected to create a range which is similar to ones already sold in Weavers Door. For example, over-shirts which would be made out of cord, the 3 in 1 parka, and the real leather jacket with real fur on the collar. All of the items included will be of the best quality and therefore the pricing will range from ÂŁ450 for the real leather jacket, and ÂŁ90 for the overshirts included in the range. I feel this range would appeal to the existing customer due to how each item flows into different outfits and each item can be worn differently.

Customer profile

This is Nicola. She loves to go to the Everton Match with her Dad. Nicola loves spending time with her dad more than anything in the world. Nicola copies everything her dad does and loves to look like him. Nicola likes to read story books and listen to bands like One Direction!

This is Ben. He loves going out with his dad. They always go to the park together and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop laughing when theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re spending time together. Ben loves going to school, and his favourite subject is Science.

Range Analysis

This range is based on the idea of “Mini me”, for dads whom shop at Weavers Door. As previously stated, due to the social media platforms, more and more people are more bothered about what their off springs are wearing and what they look like, more than ever before. Each part of this range can be reworked for both boys and girls, as I feel making a “boys only” range wouldn’t be fair to dads with little girls. I have used fair neutral colours which can be worn by girls or boys, however, I have included a little dress or a shirt with a little bit of pink for girls whom are girly, yet are still fashion conscious and admire their dad’s style. I have included light jackets, as well as heavy parkas with fur on the hoods. As a buyer, I would have to ensure that all buttons and fur is secure, as well as noting any other potential hazards to children wearing these garments.

VISUAL MERCHANDISING In this visual merchandising for Louis Vuitton, they have used golden bird cages to promote their new handbags. They are promoting their new handbags by using the metaphor of “these bags are so fabulous, they need to be stored in a secure place”. This visual merchandising in particular wouldn’t fit in with my range. This is visual merchandising for some kidswear. It is showing an umbrella hanging up a blazer and little top. They are promoting their new range by suggesting that this outfit would be suitable for that type of weather. This visual merchandising would fit with my range, as my range is for Autumn/Winter, and includes garments such as parkas.

VISUAL MERCHANDISING This screenshot is an image of menswear visual merchandising. This type of visual merchandising is fantastic as you the visual merchandisers have put together an outfit together right down to the accessories. This type of layout of visual merchandising would be perfect for my menswear range.

This visual merchandising is incredibly creative. This image includes visual merchandising using materials created to look jellyfish. Which jewellery is hanging from to make the jellyfish tentacles. This visual merchandising wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be suitable for my range as it looks far too glamourous for Weavers Door.

VISUAL MERCHANDISING This visual merchandising is simplistic yet incredibly intriguing. This is due to how the garments are hanging up on an upside down bike. I feel that this visual merchandising isn’t suitable for my current Autumn/Winter range, however would suit a Spring/Summer range.

This visual merchandising shows loafers in glass jars. Although interesting – it wouldn’t be suitable for my visual merchandising for Weavers Door. This is due to how this visual merchandising creates quite a smart and sophisticated feel.

VISUAL MERCHANDISING This visual merchandising is incredibly creative and is undoubtedly eye-catching. This Visual Merchandising is promoting the footwear, however I don’t feel that I would use it for the visual merchandising for Weavers door.

Although incredibly simple – this visual merchandising is incredibly creative and eye – catching. This visual merchandising is promoting perfume, so therefore wouldn’t be suitable for a clothes shop such as Weavers Door.

VISUAL MERCHANDISING This is some primary research during my travels to Helsinki, Finland. In this little store I loved the simplicity of the visual merchandising and attention to detail. I would definitely have this type of visual merchandising to promote my range in Weavers.

This is some more primary research. This is some visual merchandising already at Weavers Door. I love the suggestion of outfits as well as how it looks like the items have been laid out to be worn. This is the type of visual merchandising I would do for my menswear Weavers Door.

Industry professional practices and procedures Requirement: The company will need a revised business plan outlining targets, projections, short, mid and long term aims. This is an organisational requirement. Deadlines need to be met which will inevitably give the head office team structure to their job roles. Daily projections within a business plan gives the head office team an idea of how well garments and ranges are selling. As well as having projections within a business plan, this gives the company a long term future, which enables the company to have more stability. The company will also fill consumer needs with long term aims such as expansions across the world, which targets global consumers.

http://www.independent.co. uk/news/business/analysisand-features/british-retailersgoing-global-744882.html

Industry professional practices and procedures Requirement: the company will require staff who have the correct skills and abilities to fulfil the job role. This is an organisational requirement. If a company were to hire staff whom have the correct skills, they will have employees whom would be able to offer the best service to potential customers. These employees wouldn’t be afraid to approach customers, as well as being able to follow through with an order such as online etc. They would also ensure that any queries would be answered to the best of their ability, and if they didn’t know the answer to a specific question; they would ask another colleague to assist. The organisation would also have to ensure before all of this, the newly recruited staff were correctly briefed on the new company or store, the typical daily routine, as well as on all the new trends within the store and best sellers. Ways they could ensure all staff have the correct training could be a “buddy” system, where an experienced member of staff shows the new recruit how to complete specific tasks etc. There could also be incentives included within the job role, where such as a “credit” system is introduced, each task is worth a particular amount of credits, and when you reach this amount you receive a prize of a bonus. Employees also have the opportunity to develop if they want to progress throughout the store or company, this is called self development. All of the different types of development will affect the sales within the store, if a member of staff doesn’t know where a particular item is, the customer could become irritated and leave the store – this would result in loss of profits for that particular store. The organisation would have to ensure each member of staff is briefed on every new trend within the store as much as they’re changing. Having a sense of professionalism will carry the organisations reputation, therefore is incredibly vital to have employees that know every possible detail about the company and the store.

Industry professional practices and procedures Requirement: there is an internal personnel policy put in place. (Recruitment, introduction, training). This is an organisational requirement. When a company hires new staff, the staff hired may be experienced, however will need to be briefed on how the store or offices flow from general day to day life, as well as health and safety procedures etc. For the staff, this is an opportunity for self development, as well as for the staff whom already work there. There are places of work whom put a â&#x20AC;&#x153;buddyâ&#x20AC;? system in place; where a member of staff whom is already employed is shadowed by the new recruit for a day or a week to ensure they know all of the essentials of the job role as well as assessing how fast the new recruit learns how to complete specific tasks.

http://www.retailtimes.co.uk/blake more-trade-partners-launches-newretailer-induction-programme/

Industry professional practices and procedures Requirement: The company will need to ensure it can meet production goals and health and safety requirements.

This is both an organisational and production requirement. When it comes to meeting production requirements, it is up to a company to follow particular guidelines to reach their set goals. If they aren’t met, however, this would inevitably affect the company’s sales and profit. This would then create a bad reputation for the company, therefore no one will want to have any contact or business with this particular company as they won’t want any injured workers or being sued years later for damages. A bad reputation for a company will then lead to a loss of sales, as customers will start to shop elsewhere. Another form of health and safety would be the actual garments, too. Such as looking at whether the fabrics used are irritating, or any embellishment can come off and be a choking hazard when it comes to kidswear. Requirement: The company will need a fully developed marketing plan. This is an organisational requirement. Celebrity endorsement is a popular marketing strategy for most companies or retailers. This is due to how having the right celebrity endorsing your product, can bring in more customers, even customers whom haven’t shopped with the company whom you’re working for. However, from the marketing point of view, you have to ensure that you have the right celebrity for the brand. For example, you wouldn’t have Kate Moss endorsing a Bon Marche campaign. Speaking of such of a celebrity, Kate Moss is known for her wild partying life style. As part of a marketing team, you would have to ensure you were up to date with what she is getting up to in her daily life – perhaps she could sign something with the particular retailer whom she’s endorsing, to not go too “wild” while she is employed by this particular retailer.

Industry professional practices and procedures Requirement: The company will need equipped offices or premises in the correct locations.

This is an organisational and production requirement. The company would need to have fully equipped warehouses and offices in order to stay on top of work loads as well as to be able stay on track with the buying cycle of each season. Stores would also need to ensure they have all the equipment in order to have the correct visual merchandising, merchandising throughout the entire store, as well as the equipment in order to serve customers. Such as the tills, iPads to order in store, as well as plastic bags, everything down to ball point pens.

Requirement: The company will need experienced and reliable distributors.

This is both an organisational and production requirement. The company will need experienced employees in order to complete tasks quickly and efficiently. Speedy delivery enables all deadline dates are met, such as online launches and model store launches. If you have a supplier whom is always on time or even early, this would then be the supplier you would use consistently as they are reliable for you each season.

Industry professional practices and procedures Requirement: There is clarity about finances. (Accounting, policies, merchandising and sales reports.) This is an organisational requirement. The organisation will need to be accurate with all numerical work. In order to achieve this, they would need to have a strong accounting team. The accounting team would need to ensure they read all reports as well as ensuring they stay on top of all stock allocation and stock replenishment.

Requirement: There is a communication system This is both an organisational and production requirement. The company would have to ensure that there are varied language speaking buyers for when liaising with potential foreign suppliers. Communication platforms such as Skype, telephones, internet and emailing makes the earth feel a lot smaller. As a buyer, you would have to ensure that there was some field research instead of always using the internet to contact suppliers. This is due to creating good, lasting relationships with suppliers. Failure to do this could lead to loss in suppliers.

Industry professional practices and procedures Requirement: There should be a clear decision â&#x20AC;&#x201C; making structure within the companies business plan.

This is an organisational requirement. In order to meet this requirement, you would have to ensure that there are meetings which include all team members in boardrooms, such as with the buyers and merchandisers, marketing team etc. get everyone involved in the decision making, ensuring there is a clear decision at the end of the meeting, this would create structure to the process.

Requirement: Managerial roles within the organisation should be clear. This is both an organisational and production requirement. In a company, there should be clear moments of evaluation of co-ordination and leadership. There needs to be someone in charge, whom can take control if needed, as well as being able to keep composure of themselves and everyone else if there was a crisis.

Industry professional practices and procedures Requirement: Fabric testing should be carried out before production. This is a production requirement. During production, there should be checks of the fabrics, ensuring they won’t shrink when washed – or if they can’t go in a washing machine – it is noted on the garment label. Fabrics would also needed to be tested on whether they are durable or not, or if they are an irritable material. Requirement: All sampled garment development is carried out in a centralized product development centre and dedicated sample room.

This is a production requirement. During production, it is essential that all garment fabrics are tested. For example, if a particular material is chosen for a top and there is no possibility of it holding, this is where it would be discovered during this.

Requirement: Technical knowledge and international experience is integral.

This is both an organisational and production requirement. This is due to how important technology is now, especially within retail. International experience is also essential when dealing with suppliers, as if you don’t know what you’re doing as an organisation, then you won’t be successful in gaining any suppliers.

Analysis

As a buyer, this is the type of table I would need in order to keep track of all the shipping of my range. Such as the 20ft containers costs and how many I will need, as well as finding out how many boxes which will be needed in the shipping, and how much they will cost. Each container costs £1176.21 and a box costs £2.51. Due to this significant difference between prices, it is the buyer’s responsibility to identify the most costly way to ship the range to stores, which would therefore save the retailer money, which inevitably maximises the company’s profits.

Lead Times Lead Time is the length of days between when an order is placed and the date the goods are available for use. The largest impact to lead time accuracy is found by comparing expected receipt date to actual receipt date for each purchase order. In simple terms, the variance is calculated as the absolute value of the difference (expected or requested receipt date â&#x20AC;&#x201C; actual receipt date) for each line on the purchase order. These variances in days across multiple purchase orders establish the need for lead time accuracy testing and lead time forecasting. Suppliers provide an estimate of lead time, but these numbers are not always accurate. The differences between your expected receipt date and actual receipt date can become expensive from the resulting unplanned over stocks, out of stocks, and deflated consumer opinions. Lead time tracking and lead time forecasting are mission critical to the success of your supply chain. Pre-processing Lead Time: The time required to create a work order from the time you learn of the requirement. It is also known as "planning time" or simply "paperwork". Processing Lead Time is the time required to make/manufacture the item. Post processing lead time: The time required to receive a buy or transfer item from the receiving dock to inventory (it includes quarantine, inspection time, etc.) Lead time to import in China was last measured in 24 in 2014, according to the World Bank. Time is recorded in calendar days. The time calculation for a procedure starts from the moment it is initiated and runs until it is completed. If a procedure can be accelerated for an additional cost, the fastest legal procedure is chosen. It is assumed that neither the exporter not the importer wastes time and that each commits to completing each remaining procedure without delay. Procedures that can be completed in parallel are measured as simultaneous. The waiting time between procedures--for example, during unloading of the cargo--is included in the measure. This page has the latest recorded value, an historical data chart and related indicators for Lead time to import (days) in China. Lead time to export (days) in India was last measured at 17.10 in 2014, according to the World Bank. Time is recorded in calendar days. The time calculation for a procedure starts from the moment it is initiated and runs until it is completed. If a procedure can be accelerated for an additional cost, the fastest legal procedure is chosen. It is assumed that neither the exporter nor the importer wastes time and that each commits to completing each remaining procedure without delay. Procedures that can be completed in parallel are measured as simultaneous. The waiting time between procedures--for example, during unloading of the cargo--is included in the measure. This page has the latest recorded value, an historical data chart and related indicators for Lead time to export (days) in India. I have decided that I will be using the form of shipping by truck, as most of my range will be coming from the United Kingdom.

What is the Critical Path? The Critical Path is a project-management technique that lays out all the activities needed to complete a task, the time it will take to complete each activity and the relationships between the activities. Also called the "critical path method", critical path analysis can help predict whether a project can be completed on time and can be used to reorganize the project both before starting it, and as it progresses, to keep the project's completion on track and ensure that deliverables are ready on time. Either manually or using computer software, the project manager first lists each activity, the order it must be completed in and how long it is expected to take, and then diagrams the process. The critical path & the buying cycle are both equally as important to the buyers role and process. The critical path is a lot more detailed, whereas the buying cycle is brief when it comes to listing tasks. Without either of these processes, buyers wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be able to keep track of the buying process, or be able to easily amend mistakes or details that need to be changed. Without the buyer being able to keep on top of their role, this would inevitably have a significant affect on the brand or retailer whom theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re working for. It would affect the profits, if mistakes were made with shipping or the fabrics chosen for specific ranges arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t suitable.

Critical Path & Production Issues Resources required for production: - Fabric trims - Transport; planes, boats, trucks and shipping etc. - Industrial equipment; sewing machines, dyes and chemicals etc. - Staff; training and job roles - Quality control team - Premises; factories, warehouses and head office etc. - Computers; internet, photoshop skills etc - Communication methods; internet, skype etc. - Money and overall budget

Fabric The fabrics used in each of my ranges include wool, cord, synthetic fabrics & cotton. The majority of my range will be coming from the United Kingdom, as most of it is made out of wool and cord as it is an Autumn/Winter range. As it is an independent boutique, the store wouldn’t have the budget to send buyers across the world to keep on top of production. “Made in the UK”, also adds value to the clothing sold at Weavers Door. Transport Transport includes numerous methods of delivering goods across the world or country. Such as from the production factories to warehouses or to stores. Transport is a requirement to get garments from production to the stores. Without transport it wouldn’t be possible to complete any of this. The numerous forms of transport includes; planes, boats and trucks etc. As a buyer, you would have to ensure that you select the correct type and more costly way of transportation. Industrial Equipment Another resource required for production is industrial equipment. Without industrial equipment it would be difficult to produce a range, as each piece of equipment are essential during production. Industrial equipment includes; sewing machines, over lockers and chemical dyes etc. Sewing machines are the main and most important piece of industrial equipment when producing a garment, as the sewing machine sews the garment together whilst over lockers are used to add finishing touches etc. Staff Staff is one of the most important requirements for production was without staff, production wouldn’t occur. There are a number of different staff members within the production environment that are equally as important as each other. At the top of the staff pyramid is the Director. Within production, a Director or at least a manager, are vital as they provide other staff members with order and direction. Without a Director or at least a manager, employees would have no orders, therefore all production and the business as a whole would suffer. Quality control team Having a quality control team on site during production is of huge importance as they need to approve the garments produced, in order for the buyers of the range to put them in store. If the quality control team were not available, then the quality of the garments would be dismissed and it would be more likely for garments of a bad quality to be sold in store, which inevitably leads to an unhappy customer and a loss in profit. I have chosen to sell my range in Weavers Door. It is a luxury independent boutique for menswear. All clothing is always at an extremely high standard – therefore quality control is essential after the production of my ranges.

Critical Path Process PLANNING

PLANNING – 4 WEEKS

15TH OCTOBER 2015

RESEARCH

RESEARCH – 2/4WEEKS

12TH NOVEMBER 2015

DESIGN

DESIGN – 3 WEEKS

10TH DECEMBER 2015

PROTO SAMPLE & COSTINGS

PROTO SAMPLES – 2/4 WEEKS

31ST DECEMBER 2015

PRE RANGE SELECTION MEETING

3 DAYS TO FLY OUT TO FACTORIES

28TH JANUARY 2016

NEGOTIATION/TRIP TO FACTORIES

FACTORY VISITS/TRIP – 2 WEEKS

31ST JANUARY 2016

FINAL RANGE SELECTION MEETING

ACCESSORIES APPROVAL – 4 WEEKS

14TH FEBRUARY 2016

PLACE ORDER

2 DAYS OF FLYING OUT TO PLACE ORDERS

13TH MARCH 2016

GARMENT FITTINGS

GARMENT FITTINGS – 4 WEEKS

15TH MARCH 2016

FABRIC ORDER

FABRIC LEAD TIME – 6 WEEKS

12TH APRIL 2016

TIME & COLOUR APPROVALS

2 DAYS GOING TO TRADE SHOWS

24TH MAY 2016

BULK PRODUCTION plus SHIPPING

CHINA – SHIPPING LEAD TIME 12 WEEKS

26TH MAY 2016

WAREHOUSE – STORE ALLOCATION

2 WEEKS TO BREAK ALL THE STOCK DOWN

18 AUGUST 2016

PRODUCT LAUNCHED IN STORE

16 WEEKS

1ST SEPTEMBER 2016

What is the “Buying Cycle”? The Buying Cycle is typically a year long process of a buyer’s duties and what they take into consideration when selecting ranges and sourcing materials etc. For clothing companies who require “fast fashion”, include the same buying cycle, however, is obviously over a shorter time span which is typically 6 weeks. The Buying Cycle refers to when buyers are “going to market” and placing orders with suppliers. The traditional times of the year to buy are; September (Spring) and February (Autumn). Although most businesses follow these schedules, buyers are increasingly are looking to make purchases in smaller quantities to provide continual newness. Though the buying cycle can take up to a year there are obviously two main ranges to be bought annually, so the buyer is always working on at least two seasons ranges simultaneously. While the buyer is planning a range for Autumn/Winter season, garment fittings and approvals of fabric colour and quality are still under way for the Spring/Summer season. Most fashion buyers now buy ranges more frequently than twice per year as an Autumn/Winter range has to change in order to meet customers’ needs effectively from August to January in terms of both climate and fashionability. It is usual for most UK fashion retailers to introduce new ranges to stores at least once every six weeks. This does not mean completely changing the range, but frequently introducing new fashion items whilst retaining best sellers and/or basic lines in store. Ranges which bridge the gap between one season to the next are called “transitional”, accounting for the fact that the spring season is actually launched during winter (in February) and the autumn range during the summer (August). This makes the fashion buying environment extremely challenging as the workload for two or three seasons’ ranges will overlap leaving little time to rest in between.

SUPPLY CHAINS There are numerous supply chain strategies. I am going to compare and contrast the different strategies of Zara, Primark and H&M. While Zara originated in Spain, it has stores in 86 countries today – in Europe, the Americas, the Middle East and Asia. In 2012, Inditex reported sales of US$20.7 billion, with Zara representing 66 percent of total sales (US$13.6 billion). The brand is renowned for it’s ability to deliver new clothes to stores quickly and in small batches. Twice a week, at precise times, store managers order clothes, and twice a week, on schedule, new garments arrive. The company produces about 450 million items a year for its 1,770 stores in 86 countries. To achieve this, Zara controls more of its manufacturing and supply chain than do most retailers. For Zara, its supply chain is its competitive advantage. Zara’s overarching strategy is achieving growth through diversification with and vertical integrations. It adapts couture designs, manufactures, distributes, and retails clothes within 2 weeks of the original design first appearing on catwalks. The company owns its supply chain and competes on its speed to market, literally embodying the idea of “fast fashion”, similar to Primark. Primark, the United Kingdom and Irish retailer has taken “fast fashion” to new levels by offering clothing at “rock bottom” prices. After the success of Primark, value is now taking priority over quality, also known as the “Primark” effect. Unlike Zara’s focus on style, Primark’s niche is rock – bottom prices. Costs are kept low by making cheap garments from man – made materials, using cheap production processes. Primark operate on a when its gone, its gone basis. There is no such thing as going online and ordering your size, which is a benefit for the company as well as a pit fall. As there is a sense of demand for specific products which are mainly aimed at “impulse” buyers – however Primark are possibly losing sales by not having an online presence of any sort.

H&M SUPPLY CHAIN H&M’s approach is to use their influence wherever possible to promote good practice and raise awareness, not only among their suppliers and their employees as well as others along their value chain. They believe that working together in partnership is the best way they can make a positive difference. The H&M buying offices is based in Stockholm, Sweden. There their designers, pattern makers and buyers, together with merchandisers in their product offices, create, plan and purchase their collections. All their first- tier suppliers sign H&M’s Code of Conduct before producing for H&M and they monitor their suppliers compliance with it. They aim for their suppliers to increasingly take ownership for ensuring good working conditions and environmental performance. Since the launch of their “Sustainability Commitment”, an update version of their Code of Conduct, they work even more with promoting ownership amongst their suppliers, encouraging them to take responsibility of their own sustainability work. H&M support them in a number of ways, including the provision of training and capacity building. They also help them to develop and improve management systems that will avoid non – compliance on an ongoing basis. Our primary focus is on our strategic suppliers, which are our best suppliers in terms of sustainability. A supplier may own different factories. In some cases, suppliers may subcontract other factories for certain tasks. All factories in which production for H&M takes place, no matter if directly contracted or subcontracted must comply with our Sustainability Commitment before entering a business relationship with H&M.

Analysis After analysing costs and problems and constraints in regards to production it is clear that both factors have a huge impact on the critical path. The critical path provides a schedule including weeks and dates for production as a direction for the launch date of a range. Costs, such as, shipping, warehouses and fabrics which have been previously listed are the main focuses of costs that impact the critical path massively. The additional touches to fabric, such as, dying, chemicals and prints leads to an increased price on the original fabric, which then has an impact on the cost price of the garment overall. The more money spent on fabrics for garments, means there is less fabric for other sourcing elements. However, the increased of fabrics means the RRP for each garment will be increased, meaning profits will be made on each garment, which will benefit the store overall. As all three of my ranges will be stocked in cricket it will be deemed as acceptable to charge of a high price for each garment as they will be sold amongst designer brands. Therefore, quality of the fabric must be ensured in garments, which again will lead to an impact in cost price as more money will need to be distributed on fabrics due to the excellent quality as the better the quality, the high the price. Shipping has a bigger impact on the critical path than costs as shipping products may be at risk of disrupting the time scale of the critical path. By missing shipping deadlines, your critical path suffers as you will need to add additional time to the critical path, which will then throw everything of schedule. It is important as a buyer that you source a reliable supplier that can promise a reliable source of shipping. If shipping is unreliable then this could mean goods are not shipped on time. If goods are not shipped on time for the deadline then this will effect product launch. By missing the product launch, products will then have to be put on hold and released in shops a few days/weeks later, which will disrupt the sales of the range as customers will be unhappy and less sales will be made due to the products being delivered late, which again has an overall impact on the profits made. In regards to products being shipped after the deadline, this also effects the store promotions as stock will not be at the store in time for product launch to also be apart of promotions, which again means the range will have a loss in sales which has an impact on the overall profit. Warehouse equipment may also have an effect on the critical path through equipment braking and preventing production from being carried out within the given time. Problems and constraints, such as, sourcing and design issues may effect the critical path in a number of ways. In regards to sourcing, sourcing globally may cause a time constraint on production, due to natural disasters and wars and conflicts as well as distance. The further away the sourcing location then the longer it may take to be shipped to warehouses and retail stores. If natural disasters where to occur and ruin crops, this would prevent suppliers from sourcing certain fabrics, such as, cotton and silk, which will effect time and production as buyers will be forced to look elsewhere for a supplier who is able to provide these materials. If the buyer uses single sourcing, then this would add time on to the critical path as the buyer only uses one supplier and has no back up options, therefore the buyer would be pressured to find a new supplier within a certain time frame in hopes the production can be completed for the deadline. In most cases, finding a supplier may find a number of days/weeks therefore this would effect the critical path as production would have to be set back which means the product launch may possibly suffer also if it is unable to be set back along with production. Again, this issue would have an overall effect on sales and profit. Design issues will also influence the critical path being followed within the time schedule given. Problems may occur with certain designs during sampling which buyers may disagree with. Therefore, samples will then have to be disapproved and sent back to supplier sin order for them to re design and correct problems as well as re sample products and deliver them back to buyers in hopes they will then be approved. If sample are disapproved, this adds extra time on to the critical path as samples will need to be sent back and forth and reconstructed, which means the time frame for designing and Sampling will need to be extend, which leads to either another window in the critical path being shortened or the over all critical path being made longer, which again effects the launch date leading to an overall effect on sales and profit. All these points of issues that may occur all help to prevent the critical path target from being achieved, which has an overall negative impact on retailers as they have to deal with the problems caused by the critical path not being followed on time. This has an overall impact on sales and profits for the retailer.

Financial Spreadsheet Analysis

The use of spreadsheets is a common occurrence for most businesses. Spreadsheets are mostly used to store information though they also have a vital role in the day to day functioning of an office. The ability to analyse and present data sets means that spreadsheets are used within many companies to inform the decision-making process. Any effective future planning activity naturally needs to be informed by a clear picture of the present and past, and task spreadsheets are ideally placed to assist. Spreadsheets allow you to carry out performance measurement. For example, within a retail or service organisation, you could use spreadsheet data transformed into a bar chart to see how well your business performs at different times of the year. You can also carry out speculative analyses, for example estimating sales projections and calculating the effect that these would have on the business as a whole. Buyers and Merchandisers use spreadsheets in order to have a clear view of the range, to view the dates they are being released and any other figures such as the best sellers in the range and the garments which aren’t selling as well as predicted. On a financial spreadsheet, you also have a clear view of the pricing of each individual garment and how many have been sold. Due to this, buyers and merchandisers are able to work out the Gross profit they have made for the business. Financial spreadsheets form a lot of buying decisions and I would use them to see if there have been more than one best seller, I would be more than likely reintroduce those products in other ranges. It gives a view of what potential customers want and makes an impact on all buying decisions. Analysing the financial spreadsheet on the previous slide, I have included small images of each individual product which have then been broken down in how many have been sold etc. I have described each individual piece so they are easier to identify as a couple of my products have the same style. I have also listed the fabrics that will be used, such as wool & synthetic fabrics. The Country Of Origin for the wool and tailoring would be the United Kingdom, and the synthetic fabrics would be China. For each range I have selected numerous prices which reflect the quality of each garment, as well as the usual pricing for Weavers Door. And to work out the “cost price”, I have used the equation, cost price = RRP minus 20% VAT (divided by 1.2), then divided again by 2.5. £80/1.2 = 66.67/2.5, for example, which equalled to the cost price of £26.68. I have selected my range to be only sold in store graded A, this is due to Weavers Door being in an independent boutique. I have calculated how many times I could have sold items and multiplied it by how many weeks has been on sale for, which is 16 weeks. From this, I have worked out the quantity plus replenishment, realising that as a buyer, I will have certain best sellers, which I have applied to the table. I have taken those quantities into consideration when calculating this. Finally I calculated the total cost price of the entire range by adding each individual items cost price, which equalled to £58,127.04. I then calculated the total RRP, which equalled to £175,518. From these calculations, I could then calculate the entire gross profit of the entire range. (gross profit – RRP – Cost Price) which equalled to £117,390.96.

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