# 00 Laura Silbe rzahn
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exchange
Laura Silberzahn
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swedish school of textiles
Laura Silberzahn
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‚Watch Your Back, Parsons Grads. The Swedish School of Textiles Has Produced a Slew of Promising Young Designers‘
There was no historicism in the collections the 15 graduates showed, nor was there any of the famed Scandi minimalism. Experimentation was the name of the day. It was interesting to see how the work of Paris up-andcomer Simon Porte Jacquemus seemed to inspire the students. Surrealism, too, was a popular trope. Evelin Kägo was the recipient of a prize from Lindex, the large Swedish fast-fashion brand, a sponsor of the show. Her technical knits, in brilliant colors and Op Art patterns, were joyful and a feat of engineering. The menswear collections were particularly strong, especially those of Erik Stenssson and Mimmi Fielding. The former shrouded his models in layers of tulle, creating a soft architecture. Fielding focused on ruffles, which she made an integrated, rather than decorative, aspect of her garments. As ruffles are generally associated with femininity, her designs questioned traditional gender roles. Fielding said her aim was that the clothes not be “awkward in any way,” and indeed, they were quietly beautiful, as well as impactful. www.vogue.com/13470883/swedish-school-of-textiles-grad-show/
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Fashion represents a fast-growing sector of the Swedish economy. And that growth, says Ann Linde, the country’s minister for EU Affairs and Trade, isn’t coming just from big brands. It makes sense, then, that emerging talent is the focus of the Spring 2017 Stockholm Fashion Week, which kicked off yesterday with the graduation collection show of the bachelor’s and master’s degree students of the Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås, which was founded in 1866.
Laura Silberzahn
Collaborationpeak performance X swedish school of textiles Task: express function by exploring the possibilities with given materials in a specific activity ex; running, dancing, skiing, cycling, etc. explore your amazing creativity but somehow not too far away from real life when it comes to production and commerciality connected to peak performance.
essential skills to enable a sleek performance:
peak performance
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flexibility waterproof easy excess emergency resease of cans ability to climb (free hands),
street art aka. graffitti. spaying considerd as sport to help young people expess their identety in urban sourroundings and release emotions. preventing violence with creativity.
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Laura Silberzahn peak performance
emergency release drop off function for used cans.
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introducing
Laura Silberzahn
laura silberzahn
INTR ODU CING
I am insane in the membrane, you dont even know how, motherfucker
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honours program
introducing
introducing
The Honours Programme (HP) gives a select group of talented students the opportunity to spend a short but intensive study period deepening and strengthening their fashion vision, their stylistic signature and their personal motivation. The end result is a small, high-quality collection of three outfits, supported by representative 2D work. The collection must be the outcome of solid, well delineated development over the course of the programme, with a quantifiable growth in design creativity, vision and level of execution. HP students go through their own growth process, of course, but they are also a powerful example to their peers and to the whole Fashion & Design course. By the end of the programme they will have become ambassadors for AMFI’s design standards.
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first fitting: determing shape and size
introducing
collar development
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line up try out and colour selection
collage try out with foam
Laura Silberzahn
fingerprinted glue with flock
introducing
pattern try outhand painted, waxcrayons
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Laura Silberzahn
promarker drawing try out on leather with glossy finishing
introducing
embroidery positioning
print try out with puffy ink in offwhite and nude as singe layer and as combination.
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introducing
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introducing embroidery development
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introducing
Laura Silberzahn
we deny, hidden, the revealed, inner demons, doubts, our desires, our desperation.
The Japanese believe that your personality is divided into 3 faces. The first one is the surface, it embodies the need to express the personal appearance and the desire to be received by others as superior. go hard or go home. Beneath that, the second face is shown to your close friends and family. It reveals self doubts, fear and insecurity. The last face is the truest reflection of yourself. It is never shown to anyone. Introducing captures the need to unfold all ugly, scary and intimidating facets of yourself. It is an honest reflection without trying to polish the flaws. hi, my name is ______LAURA.
introducing
Laura Silberzahn
the faces the our our
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Laura Silberzahn introducing
introducing
The space between being and pretending
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introducing
Laura Silberzahn
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introducing
Laura Silberzahn
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the giver
Laura Silberzahn
Atelier
the giver In Atelier the focus is on the design process, which is directed by your unique ideas, personality, visionary talent, and making skills, on the one hand, and a general need for innovation and durability on the other. In other words, you are in charge of your own „Atelier“ where you can create without the limitations of a brand or the market. The objective is to design a collection of high quality, durable unique pieces based on various technical design principles, such as draping and pattern manipulation, a combination of traditional handicrafts and innovative techniques, experimentation with form, (de)construction, and a specialization in knit, print or digital design. This collection of outfits will evidence the start of a personal handwriting and a clear and relevant vision on fashion. Every stage of the design process you document in one and the same processbook. At the end of the semester you present your collection by means of a relevant and fitting medium (e.g. print, video, mixed media) and a styled and coherent photo series. Finally, you present all project outcomes in your portfolio.
Laura Silberzahn
# 04
In th middle of atelier a handpicked group of students is shifted to the honours program to becomme official ambassedors of the amsterdam fashion istitute. the will be no final product from the atelier course.
the giver
Personal challenge: how to use colour
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Laura Silberzahn the giver
inspiration inspiration reseach of how coulour is applied in contemporary art by stef kamil carlens, melkweg exposition
reseach: how coulour is applied in contemporary art by karel appel, rijksmuseum, amsterdam
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SENSORY OVERLOAD
the receiver
the giver Hallmarks
Hallmarks
- superior - sensory overload of emotions - autoroty - powerful - knowledge - influential - frightening
- inferior - sensory overload of emotions - follower - guilt - blank - unknowen - helpless
sensory overload of emotions
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the giver
the giver, a book that i have read when i was 10, inspired me to see my sourrounding differently for the first personal collection. the society the book takes place in got rid of all feelings. the 10-year-old narrator jonas describes his „community,“ as a place where there is no suffering, hunger, war, color, sex, music, or love. the reason why he is able to tell is because the destiny his „community“ depicked for him is to become the new receiver of all those memories, transferred by the old keeper the giver. my collection describes the impression when all those feeling jonas never experienced before are transferred to his brain.
Laura Silberzahn
the giver
Laura Silberzahn the giver
transferring memories the giver x the receiver
childens drawings of my mum and me as starting point for print development
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the giver
translated into embroidery
Laura Silberzahn
one line drawings
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colour research
Laura Silberzahn
cobra movement, rijksmuseum amsterdam
concept realisation the giver
tranlation from experience and emotions into colour and form. ex.memory: how i learned to ride a bike-> patience, love, comfort translated colour: blur translated shape: circle
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the giver - concept
unifing both characteristics of the giver and receiver. develop from both values a coherent collection which mirrors the following: -
superior/ inferior sensory overload of emotions autoroty/ follower powerful/ blank wisdom/ unknowen influential/ helpless frightening/ guilt
Laura Silberzahn
hallmarks: division of emotions and feelings into - colour - shape
relation to cobra movement: personal challenge for atelier: the use of colour.
the giver
I looked at different art movements to study their use of colour and composition.
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Laura Silberzahn
The receiverHallmarks - inferior - sensory overload of emotions - follower - guilt - blank - unknowen - helpless
the giver
how do we deal with forced/ imposed responsibily for a society we grew up in?
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the giver
Laura Silberzahn
Laura Silberzahn
The giverHallmarks - superior - sensory overload of emotions - autoroty - powerful - knowledge - influential - frightening
the giver
how do we potray people who are superior in our society?
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the giver
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the giver
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the giver
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cmd + C Laura Silberzahn
Laura Silberzahn
# 03 Personal Project
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How do we define our identity? what makes us unique? Is it possible to be original? ‘Every society has notions of what one should believe, how one should look like in order to avoid unpopularity. These social conventions are formulated in legal codes and religious doctrines, but also in a vast body of social judgements which we take for granted, which dictates what we wear, who we respect, how we lead our lives, and how we should look. WE refrain from questioning the status quo, because WE associate what is popular with what is RIGHT.‘
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alain de botton
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the need of leaving tracks + individualization in overpopulated areas. How to identify with home? NYC, Williamsburg brigde 2015
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cmd + C Laura Silberzahn
Laura Silberzahn
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The Generation- Y is defined by individualism (words, gestures and items we connect to our body). we are deeply connected to social media and experience a digital influence which never had had this impact before in our development. The desire to be someone else influences the own behavior. Therefor personalities are getting copied. The individual struggles between the self and the desire. By sharing and spreading individuality online, ID‘s are reflected, filtered, copied and are therefore repetitive.
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Individuality is Repetetive.
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cmd + C Laura Silberzahn
Laura Silberzahn
cmd + C
The Generation- Y is defined by individualism (words, gestures and items we connect to our body). we are deeply connected to social media and experience a digital influence which never had had this impact before in our development. The desire to be someone else influences the own behavior. Therefor personalities are getting copied. The individual struggles between the self and the desire. By sharing and spreading individuality online, ID‘s are reflected, filtered, copied and are therefore repetitive.
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Individuality is Repetetive.
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triptiek Laura Silberzahn
Laura Silberzahn
# 03 Triptiek
design x branding x management 3 departments, 13 days
triptiek
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Laura Silberzahn triptiek
Our interchangeable clothing system of frameworks and attachables is a direct answer to the dynamic, everaccelerating pace of fashion, whereby society pushes individuals to focus on quantity instead of quality. Considering the fact that we lose human interconnectivity due to this pace, it is our duty to reinforce this connectivity. Through our interchangeable system an individual can cover an elevated number of garments just buy owning the basic frames and a handful of attachments. Giving a new way of looking at sustainability within clothing we give individuals the possibility to establish a connection with one another. Moreover every element within 4ward is
not associated with any gender, considering that in 2025 we will live in a totally gender-free society. Form and function go hand in hand. The 4ward aesthetic brings together the curved and sharp shapes found in deconstructive architecture with the fast and active aspect of modern urban life. The weaving technique is not only used as a mere embellishment but also covers a symbolic aspect, echoing the interaction and diversity that is achieved through the interconnectivity between humans; how each strand comes from a different place but every single one forms part of a whole new reinforced weave.
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Laura Silberzahn
4WARD
triptiek
dyanmic - genderless curved - layered movement - surreal intertwined interconnectivity
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pockets
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Laura Silberzahn
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Laura Silberzahn
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triptiek Laura Silberzahn
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studio: Biosyntethic
Laura Silberzahn
Studio 02 BIOSYNTHETIC
A rhythm is disturbed. Everyday rush and technological overstimiulation creates an escape that brings us back to a place where distilled nature takes the lead. The desire for our natural roots is coming back.
Laura Silberzahn
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We want to go on a journey, while we use technology in a independent way. We get overwhelmed by our artificial surroundings. We feel repeated attempt to return to simplicity.
studio: Biosyntethic
reminded of the value of nature and roots of humanity we desire living in a city which benifits and depends on tecnology. It is an inner conflict between the need of technology and the love for nature. It is impossible to live without one or the other.
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Laura Silberzahn
Trend: Unfolding unnatural behavior VISUAL - Pure - Roughly rounded - 3d layered structures - wasted out, toned colors - (Ir)Regular repetition MENTAL - Socially feud (annoyed) - Unnatural behavior - Artificial vs. natural - The conflict of depending on not science/ Technology/ Artificial forces rather have produced by our own natural cultivation (safe) WHO - Our generation 20 - 30 WHAT - unfolding unnatural behavior WHERE - High populated areas where young have to deal with overloaded impact of information
studio: Biosyntethic
WHY - This generation is overloaded by information (and trash) filtered by few people => Need for rearrange/ restructure by researching natural pure essence of human nature. But we are in the step between/ before doing this. - Unwrapping ourselves by questioning daily life
Leading research Article: HOUSTON (KTRK) -- A 19-year-old is dead, after accidentally shooting himself in the neck while posing for photos with a gun. The shooting happened at an apartment complex in the 9800 block of Forum Park in southwest Houston. Police say Deleon Smith found a gun and was taking photos of his cousin and himself. Police say Smith was posting photos to social media when the 19-year-old accidentally shot himself and died. Police have taken his cell phone as part of their investigation.
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Laura Silberzahn
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studio: Biosyntethic
Keywords: Distilled nature Artificial Nature in a lab – human made Biosythetic
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studio: Biosyntethic
Laura Silberzahn
Laura Silberzahn
Biosynthetic
studio: Biosyntethic
Biosynthetic: The formation of chemical compounds by a living organism or a laboratory process modeled after this reactions in living organism
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studio: Biosyntethic
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studio: Biosyntethic
Laura Silberzahn
Xenon Jacket Section: Mid style available sizes : S-L
Plutonium Jacket Section: Top Style available sizes : Onesize
Lithium Vest Section: Mid style available sizes : S-L
Sodium Vest Section: Basic Style available sizes: S-L
Titanium Vest Section: Top style available sizes : S-L
Ethanol Jumper Section: Mid style available sizes : S-XL
Iron Jumper Section: Top Style available sizes : S-XL
Carbon Jumper Section: Mid style available sizes : s-xl
Hydrogen T-Shirt Section: Mid Style available sizes : S-XL
Beryllium T-Shirt Section: Basic style available sizes : S-XL
Uranium Trousers Section: Top Style available sizes : XS-XL
Cadmium Trousers Section: Mid Style available sizes : XS-XL
Astatine Trousers Section: Mid Style available sizes : XS-XL
Palladium Vest Section: Top style available sizes : Onesize
Argon Jumper Section: Basic style available sizes : s-xl
Oxygen Shorts Section: Top Style available sizes : XS-XL
Helium Vest Section: Mid style available sizes : Onesize
Krypton Jumper Section: Mid style available sizes : s-xl
Scandium Shorts Section: Mid Style available sizes : XS-XL
Curium Kniepads Section: Top style available sizes : Onesize
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studio: Biosyntethic
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studio: Biosyntethic
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studio: Biosyntethic
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Laura Silberzahn
Prints
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Saint Clash Biosynthetic
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De:fining Appearance
Laura Silberzahn
De:Fining Appearance In relation to the research of a historical garment -The Moning Cape-
Laura Silberzahn
# 02
from 1850, the concept ‘De:fining Appearance’ reflects the artificial forced shapes of the body and its unbalanced structure. The pattern pieces are altered to work against the natural shape of human silhouettes and emphasis proportions by adding or subtracting space between garment and skin. However, this principle leads to deconstructed, shifted and fragmented
De:fining Appearance
proportions which change posture and movement.
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De:fining Appearance
Laura Silberzahn
Laura Silberzahn De:fining Appearance
In relation to the mantelette from 1850, connections could be drawn to the afghan burka, which was worn around the same time. though the garments look completely different both restrict the body either in movement or sight.
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Laura Silberzahn De:fining Appearance
In relation to the research of a historical gar-
natural shape of human silhouettes and emphasis
ment -The Moning Cape- from 1850, the concept
proportions by adding or subtracting space between
‘De:fining Appearance’ reflects the artificial
garment and skin.
forced shapes of the body and its unbalanced
However, this principle leads to deconstructed,
structure.
shifted and fragmented proportions which change
The pattern pieces are altered to work against the
posture and movement.
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no gender.
no nationality.
Laura Silberzahn
Zero no age.
Minds who are connected with the concept are unified by their interest in science, technology, evolution and how the world around them functions which leads to a curious and experimental consciousness. They are future philosophers with love for detail and material.
De:fining Appearance
Pioneers in their own world of tomorrow.
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De:fining Appearance
Laura Silberzahn
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De:fining Appearance
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Intake AMFI 2013/14
Laura Silberzahn
Intake Assignment As a designer your fundamentals are shape, color and material Together they define the appearance and meaning of a design • • •
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Execute an inspiration research based on the word below Design a fashion object in relation to the body, based on your research Take four pictures with the fashion object in relation to the body, each time in a different setting
Demands • •
The object is made of recycled material The object must fit into a package up to 40x40x40 appr.
• • • • • •
Create a mind map based on the word that you get (see below) Collect images that you associate with the word from different categories Make sketches and show shapes, colors and materials that in your vision relate to the word Comment with descriptive keywords Make a scrapbook with the mind map, pictures, sketches and texts etc. to show your inspiration and thinking- and design process.This is your process book. Create the object and the photo series
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Intake AMFI 2013/14
Working method
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Intake AMFI 2013/14
Laura Silberzahn
A closed loop that is embedded in three-dimensional space and that can be intertwined with or tangled in itself, but that cannot intersect itself.
Intake AMFI 2013/14
N=S^{1} and M=\mathbb {R} ^{3} or M=S^{3}.
Laura Silberzahn
KNOT:
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Intake AMFI 2013/14
Laura Silberzahn
A closed loop that is embedded in three-dimensional space and that can be intertwined with or tangled in itself, but that cannot intersect itself.
Intake AMFI 2013/14
N=S^{1} and M=\mathbb {R} ^{3} or M=S^{3}.
Laura Silberzahn
KNOT:
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Intake AMFI 2013/14
Laura Silberzahn