HEL MUT S
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I had found out earlier that I did not function well in the studio, that my imagination needed the reality of the outdoors. ...
I set up my camera in the chicest places, in what the locals called “la zone”, which were working class districts, construction sites, etc. ...
I realized that only as a fashion photographer I could create my kind of universe and make my models play the part of a certain type of woman. ...
I kept my equipment down to a minimum: two cameras, each with three lenses, a flashlight that would clip onto the camera body and one assistant. ...
I did not want to spend time thinking about hardware. I wanted that time to concentrate on the girl and her world around her ...
It is interesting to compare European and American more sin regard to my work. Most of my European images have a stronger sexual content than hose destined for American publication. The term “political correctness” has always appalled me, reminding me of Orwell’s Thought Police and fascist regimes.
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Elsa Peretti,, New York 1975
Thierry Mugler, New York 1998 with model, ParĂs 1973 Self-portrait
FASHION
Bauwelt Catalogue, 1987
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Working for French Vogue at that time was exciting: who else would have published these nudes, who else the crazy and sexually charged fashion photographs which I would submit to the editor-in-chief?.
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Twiggy, British Vogue, London 1967
Yves Saint-Laurent, London 1979
Cakvin Klein, Saint Troupez 1975
Jean Patou et Yves Laroche, Paris 1978
Catherine Deneuve, Paris 1976
PORTRAIT
Andy Warhol, Paris 1974
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Highly rewarding work, specially after I had abandoned photographing young Hollywood movie stars, invariably accompanied by their press agents who would act as censors during the actual sitting. To the question: “What people do you like to photograph?” my answer is: “Those I love, those I admire and those I hate”.
Gunilla Bergstrom, Paris 1976
David Lynch and Isabella Rossellini, Los Angeles 1988
Veruschka, Nice 1975
NUDE
After Velazquez, Paris 1981
“
It was not until 1980, that I photographed my first nudes, it is when I executed the series “Big nudes”, “Naked and dressed” and later, “Domestic nudes”. The fact that the models in these photographs were the same girls I used in my fashion work gave them a certain elegance and coolness that I was looking for in my work.
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Catherine Deneuve, Paris 1976
American Playboy, Los Angeles 1989
Arielle after a haircut, Paris 1982
Jenny Captain, Berlin 1977
Jane Kirby, Paris 1977
Jassara, Paris 1977
Self-portrait with model, ParĂs 1973
SELF-PORTRAIT
Self-portrait, París 1989
“
People gave us everything for free. We were allowed only so much film per picture, but there was no limit to the creativity. I like to say that they let us loose like wild dogs in the streets of Paris.
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Sie Kommen Dressed, French Vogue, ParĂs 1981
Sie Kommen Naked, French Vogue, ParĂs 1981