Introduction
With drag culture being more accessible into everyday life and with the influences of shows such as RuPaul’s drag race, it revolutionized drag by bringing it into the masses. The popularity of drag queens has risen over the past century because of modern activists and drag queens that have shed a new light on the art. Being a drag queen has transformed into being more than the entertainer, but into being an inspiration for LGBT community and has in many ways influenced lifestyle make-up and fashion. But what we’ve seen recently has been a massive transformation with male beauty trends as it gains momentum.
With drag culture being more accessible into everyday life and with the influences of shows such as RuPaul’s drag race, it revolutionized drag by bringing it into the masses. The popularity of drag queens has risen over the past century because of modern activists and drag queens that have shed a new light on the art. Being a drag queen has transformed into being more than the entertainer, but into being an inspiration for LGBT community and has in many ways influenced lifestyle make-up and fashion. But what we’ve seen recently has been a massive transformation with male beauty trends as it gains momentum. In today’s society, we have well-known YouTuber Manny Guiterrez, who is a popular make-up artist and also Maybelline’s first male ambassador for the brand. Guiterrez stated “Men in makeup wasn’t seen as normal, especially a couple of years ago. It wasn’t as open as it is now,”. (Newsbeat 2017) This is true as make-up brand Mac welcome diversity in its truest form. As we progress into 2017, not only has Maybelline appointed their first male ambassador but Covergirl has also appointed their first male ambassador which has amassed millions of followers and support through their social media. Furthermore, snapchat has embraced this evolving trend by launching a discover channel entitled ‘Boy Beauty’, this has offered a platform for male beauty bloggers to share their talent and tips. With the uprising popularity of males wearing make-up, with make-up artists on Instagram such as Manny Guiterrez and Jeffree Star are helping to re-define the cosmetic industry as one that’s open to everyone, not just women. Another male beauty blogger, Jake-Jamie Ward recently launched a #makeupisgenderless social media campaign to help stop the stigma around male cosmetics, this is reaching out to young males and its becoming more of an acceptance within society not just for performance purposes such as drag.
The Brand MAC
Mac cosmetics was founded in Toronto by Frank Toskan and Frank Angelo. The aim was to create a make-up line that caters to professional make-up artists needs and would withstand bright light during photo-shoots. During the early years of the brand, Mac had minimal advertising campaigns, they relied heavily on their integrity of its carefully formulated product line, word of mouth within the professional make-up artist community and the promotion from celebrities in the fashion and entertainment industry. Mac is one of the world’s leading professional make-up brands, one that celebrates diversity and individuality. A brand that is constantly at the forefront of fashion trends, doing frequent collaborations with leading talents from fashion, art and popular culture. Mac is not only relevant within the make-up industry, but they also have a strong support group and activist in social responsibility, with initiatives such as Viva Glam and the MAC Aids funds. In 1994, as HIV and AIDS continued to spread across the globe, MAC made HIV/AIDS organizations the forefront of their focus which is what drove them to create MAC Aids fund. To date Viva Glam campaign has raised over $400 million, with spokespeople such as Lady Gaga, Pamela Anderson and Nicki Minaj.
The Four P’s Product
Mac provides a wide range of products for the everyday consumer, they offer the full spectrum of make-up products (foundation, lipstick, eyeshadow etc.) Among these make-up products they also sell fragrances, skincare and top of the line make-up brushes.
Packaging
They use a simplistic but effective packaging as the style has become much related to them as brand and heavily recognizable worldwide. It is plain black with the MAC logo against it. MAC encourages recycling their packaging after the product has been used called a ‘Back to Black’ system which means if the customer returns 5 or more of the original packaging of the products to MAC, they will re-use or recycle and offer you a free lipstick as a thankyou a system that has worked well for years.
Price
MAC offers a range of prices on their products. Generally, it ranges between £15-60, which is in a middle to high category within the make-up industry. It may not necessarily be affordable to every consumer but they do offer a MAC Pro discount which is offered to students and trainee make-up artists.
Promotion
Mac has not only become a staple brand in most people’s make-up, but is also a staple for celebrities and make-up artists. The brand is against animal testing, and supports charities “MAC HIV/ AIDS funds” and “Kids Helping Kids” with their HIV/AIDS support it gave them the inspiration to entitle their motto ‘All ages. All races. All sexes’
SWOT
Strengths
•Diversity within the products- colours and shades that are made to suit all skin types. •Numerous awareness campaigns, strong and positive engagement. •Unique and distinctive design aesthetics and brand image •MAC Aids/ HIV Fund, over $270 million raised for charity over the past 18 years. •High profile ambassadors and spoken people for ad campaigns
Weaknesses
•Price point is quite high for the target consumer they are aiming to target. •Isolate some of their products to the public with their pro collection. •Minimal press and media coverage via print and digital advertising. •MAC stores are in very central in cities- unreachable to some consumers.
Opportunities
•Advance to wider spread omni channel advertising e.g. online, billboards. •Promotions or discount on non-pro products •Develop more into the BRIC economies •Larger free standing stores
Threats
•Cheaper more accessible cosmetic brands are speeding up with trends and colours •When selling in department stores other brands at the same price point and style may tear customers away from the MAC stand. •Their target audience have a lot more brands available and at a lower price point.
The Consumer In the UK, 15% of male under-45s have bought make-up in the last year, whether this be for them or someone else (Goody, A mintel’s report Beauty Retailing- UK January 2017). The consumer is male of all ages and ethnicity that have the desire to wear make-up, whether the purpose is for everyday or entertainment they shouldn’t have to feel penalised either way for purchasing certain products. With the out-dated traditional stereotypes that brands still promote men aren’t comfortable to purchase cosmetic products, even though it’s a huge market sector many brands could potentially have within their demographic as 63% of males 16-24 feel self-concious if they have a spot, and have used concealer whether that be them purchasing it for themselves or using it from another female. The consumer is not only your everyday male, but targeting consumers such as these rising YouTube and beauty bloggers who are for many young men they have admitted to valuing the advice of beauty bloggers more than members of staff. It is shown that 52% of consumers under-35 like to find new beauty products through online recommendations, such as blogs and social media with 47% of it young men (Goody, A mintel’s report Beauty Retailing- UK January 2017). With male beauty blogging influencers, for many young men it has given them a representation, and for your older male consumer a lot say they still feel the uncomfortable atmosphere when shopping for themselves. Michael Hudson a former drag performer commented saying, ‘Mostly I get in, get what I need and get out and try not to think about it.’
Current Issues The increase of internet shopping has risen, and is forever uprising and for many consumers answer that they purchase more online than physically going into a shop. Based on a survey published in September 2016, when asked the public of 16+ within the last 12 months of how many purchased a fashion related item online whether that be footwear, clothing or accessories, the results were 100% answered yes using various devices such as phone, laptop or tablet. The popularity of this system is not only for convenience, but for many people it’s a safe way of approaching shopping instead of facing the judgement or humiliation of the tiresome outdated set-up of retail spaces. With a phenomenal number of consumers using the internet as a way of purchasing, it is important for retailers to ensure that they have up-to-date responsive websites to cater for such a vast audience. Directing this retail experience specifically to make-up, it’s clear they guide all their advertisements to women. Models published over their advertisements are always women, and the products they have to offer are purposely catered towards the needs of women and women skin types. Technology is forever increasing and is starting to collaborate with retail especially with mass popularity of online shopping, the physical retail experience needs to finally start offering more. An example of a brand that has faced these issues within their recent campaign is the on-trend brand Milk make-up, they debuted their #BlurTheLines campaign, for this they collaborated with David Yi of Very Good Light a website dedicated to gender fluidity and offers beauty and make-up tips for all. Numerous models featured in this campaign, some were genderless, some were trans, some were straight, others weren’t, they represent the dubbed Generation Z that blur the gender lines on some level. David Yi commented on this campaign saying, “The most meaningful part of this entire project was the ability to show beauty through a different lens,” says Yi. “That is, one that touts that beauty is truly for all. It has no gender. It has no sexuality.
It is completely genderless.”(Deanna,P 2017) Although there has been a slight shift with this topic, and certain brands are taking the leap for adopting this issue and altering their products and selling techniques; it is still not fully accepted. We are still within a misogynistic society, for men to embrace femininity are still at forefront for mocking, for a lot of straight men they seem to still view men wearing make-up, an un-masculine thing to do but what isn’t realized is that men wearing make-up isn’t just about drag queen aesthetics or the dramatic styles favored by certain male make-up artists. It can help with covering acne, dealing with dark circles under the eyes or pro-longing the clean-shaven look. For many men, they don’t feel represented within the make-up industry as it’s still stereotyped in this society that the demographic for make-up is only women and for those men that publicly expand the boundaries they still have to face the scrutiny of having their masculinity and sexuality questioned. James Charles, Covergirl’s newest spokesperson, he created his Instagram J Charles Beauty about a year ago and it’s progressed to gaining over half a million followers. He commented saying “My parents started questioning me about whether I was transgender — whether I was trying to be a woman. It was a big argument,” he told Marie Claire in May. “It took a lot of thorough conversations to explain that it’s an art form for me. I’m still confident as a boy and I will always be a boy. I can be confident with bare skin and with a full face.” (Alptraum,L 2016)
CURRENT TECHNOLOGY
Brands such as L’Oréal have launched partnerships with technology companies to allow customers to use the latest technology to ‘trail’ cosmetics before they buy. L’Oréal Paris also launched a ‘Make-up Genius’ app which allows the customers to preview the products on their face before purchasing. Even though certain makeup brands are starting to adopt these hyper-retail strategies, it’s still mainly focused and accommodated around women. Another make-up brand who has seen the up-rise in technology and developed a concept is YSL who have partnered up with Google Glass, which allows YSL make-up artists an opportunity to capture their transformation on customers and techniques. They use Google Glass when doing 1:1 make-up sessions with customers, at the end they email the video to the customers personal account and can re look at how they created the look, along with ‘before’ and ‘after’ shots. “We used to say that luxury is more than product, it’s service. But this is even beyond that – it’s personalised service. The video is a gift for the customer. It’s a very consumer-centric approach,” said Stephan Bezy, international general manager for YSL beaute. “Google Glass is such a practical tool because it leaves the makeup artists’ hands free. It’s very comfortable and easy to wear; it looks cool because the design is great; and for the customer at the end, the video has a great quality too.” (Curtis,S 2014)
AIMS & OBJECTIVES For many men, it’s the penalization of going into a store and purchasing cosmetic products, and finding it quite daunting asking a member of the team for help or advice on the best way to use the product. The concept will be for both in-store and online, which will be a face scanner which was scanned your face will come up on the screen; it will read your skin type whether that be oily, dry or a combination and your skin tone advising you on the best foundation match, not only showing you your true match but the one above and below as everyone has personal preferences on they shade they purchase. It will then ask you for your purpose of shopping today which could be the best way to achieve a natural look without looking like your wearing make-up or a full on dramatic look they are only two types of examples, based on the information it’s been given it will construct your desired look on your face either on the screen from home or instore. It will create a look for you which suits your face and shows off your best features, if from the result, you aren’t happy you can then depict the part you are displeased with, and then will offer you different options until you find one your happy with always showing you the product on your face. Once happy with the completed look, there will be a column on the side which will show you every product they have used, the price and a total if you desire to purchase everything. If you are a beginner or not very confident as a male or any kind of gender as this system is not sexist, it’s a system for all, it will give a broken-down tutorial step by step showing how they achieved this look for you, or will show just show any area of the look you desire by clicking on that section of the face.
The second concept which is targeting more towards in-store, for many consumers the difficulty they face is they find it hard visualizing the products as they feel they are never represented through the means of advertising. This concept is a MAC app, and when you go into a MAC store/pop-up space you open the app and shows a scanner system. When seeing a product, you are interested in you simply scan the product on the app and it will automatically come up with product advertised on a variety of models from ethnicity to gender like the #BlurTheLines campaign showcasing their products on a range of people. Not only will it display the product on such a widespread of people, but it will cater the results more specific to you as it will scan your face first once it’s shown you the product a range of bloggers that MAC will collaborate with their videos will come up showing you how they have used the product and how to use it and apply it. Finally the app gives you the opportunity to post a selfie of you in that product, if you choose to purchase the product and by using the hashtag of the product your using and their slogan #AllRacesAllAgesAllSexes it will display everyone who has used that product and through an edit system you can cater the search result to other consumers with similar looks to you, (example as a drag queen you can refine that in your searches and as a result, drag queens will come up who have also used your chosen product and took a selfie).
Brand Justification Mac is a brand that would cohesively fit for this particular consumer, as their motto is ‘All ages, All races, All sexes’ and so their make-up is designed to be accessible for all. Mac is already focusing on targeting the male drag entertainers, an example of this is in 2014 when they appointed RuPaul- the drag queen from Atlanta, as the first face of the Viva Glam charity campaign. “People thought we were absolutely crazy at a time when other brands were using Elizabeth Hurley and Isabella Rossellini,” Frank Toskan says founder of the brand Mac (Maddeaux, S 2014). Some conservative department stores refused to display the campaign, “They were just flipping out, they wanted no part in it because they were so concerned about their image.” MAC are opening their demographic up, always putting out their message that they are a brand for all and with consumers shifting away from the traditional gender stereotypes it makes them a reliable brand for these consumers. Consumers who may not necessarily feel represented by other make-up brands. Mac have welcomed this diversity early on, with celebrities such as RuPaul, Boy George being the face of campaigns and most recently in January they extended their make-up range in collaboration with transgender celebrity Caitlyn Jenner. Mac not only targets their products to a widespread audience, but alongside this their products cater for all manner of intentions and purposes. With the brand already holding these values, a hyper-reality concept would fit into the brand by allowing them to gain the trust of male consumers, but also providing them with a space and service that other brands don’t have.
BIBLIOGRAPHY Login to Mintel Reports - Mintel Group Ltd. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 May 2017. Login to Mintel Reports - Mintel Group Ltd. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 May 2017. Login to Mintel Reports - Mintel Group Ltd. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 May 2017. Curtis, Sophie. “How technology is transforming the cosmetics inThe Telegraph. Telegraph Media Group, 07 Oct. 2014. Web. 04 May 2017. “First man hired as face of beauty brand Maybelline - BBC Newsbeat.” BBC News. BBC, n.d. Web. 04 May 2017. Nahman, Haley. “Boys Can Wear Makeup, Too.” Man Repeller. Man Repeller, 19 Oct. 2016. Web. 04 May 2017. Pai, Deanna. “Milk Makeup’s New Groundbreaking Campaign Celebrates the Beauty of Gender Fluidity.” Glamour. Glamour Magazine, 07 Mar. 2017. Web. 04 May 2017. Sabrina Maddeaux, Special to National Post. “Hiring RuPaul was just one of MAC’s bold, progressive moves - now, Frank Toskan finally gets his dues.” National Post. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 May 2017. Sava@OliverSava, Oliver. “RuPaul’s Drag Race revolutionized drag by bringing it to the masses.” The A.V. Club. N.p., 07 Mar. 2016. Web. 04 May 2017. Commentary. “The case for why men should wear makeup.” Quartz. Quartz, 20 Oct. 2016. Web. 04 May 2017. “The Male Make-Up Industry Is Growing - Here’s Why That’s A Good Thing.” The Debrief. N.p., n.d. Web. 04 May 2017.