B OR D E R LESS
TRAVEL LOG OF SOUTHEAST ASIA AUGUST-OCTOBER, 2015
Mabuhay (welcome) to our travel journal! We are a group of passionate young architects and interior designers from the University of Cincinnati, but most importantly we are students who are concerned with how our future profession can reach the masses and improve the quality of life for those we serve. This journal follows our 6 week expedition through Southeast Asia and how coming into contact with different cultures and ways of life have affected our perception of the world and design. Enjoy!
Our Studio
Eds on University of Cincinnati Interior Design Professor
Naz anine Miami University Assistant Architecture Professor
Ca ro l i n e
Sam m y
Nick
Libby
Charles
Lau re n M.
Zheng
Ca mi l l e
Halie
Elly
T ianna
Ty l er
Jin
Daham
L a ura
Lauren T.
Sa m
06
03
04
07
Itinerary 01 Manil a 08/23/15- 10/0 4 /1 5
02 Leyte 08/30/15- 09/0 2 /1 5
05
03 T haila nd 09/04/15- 09/0 7 /1 5
01 02
04 C ambo d i a 09/07/15- 09/1 0 /1 5
05 Iloco s 09/11/15- 09/1 3 /1 5
06 Hong Kong+ M a c a u 09/20/15- 09/2 3 /1 5
07 Singap ore 10/01/15- 10/0 3 /1 5
EXPED
ITION
M A N IL A
In 1905, American architect and planner Daniel Burnham envisioned Manila to be the “Venice of the East� with grand boulevards, winding canals, open green spaces and impressive neoclassical architectures. Emerging from intramuros, the Spanish-colonial city fortification established in the 16th century, Metropolitan Manila of today as capital of the Philippines is a city of contradictions: chaotic and ordered, laid-back and exhilarating, conservative and cosmopolitan, decadent and poor at the same time. Steeped in Spanish-colonial and American-colonial traditions, the contemporary city continues to thrive in modern-day conveniences and challenges. The colorful jeepney, a remnant of American surplus military jeeps after World War II, represented this eclectic blending of cultures and histories. Our journey through Metro Manila was grounded at the University of the Philippines at Diliman, Quezon City where we collaborated with the students and faculty of the College of Architecture. Our experiences included a whirlwind of workshops with students, tours of historic architecture, and e x p o s u r e t o t r a f f i c and pollution. The city was our gateway to the rest of Southeast Asia and by the end of the trip, Manila felt now as home.
LAURA / CHARLES
The thought of spending six weeks traveling throughout parts of Southeast Asia is at the same time exhilarating and nerve wracking. Personally, I had never traveled far outside the United States before this trip. Manila, Quezon City to be specific, acted as our home base of sorts. It was nice always having a place to return to, a room to call our own, to fully unpack and feel settled in. Staying at the University Hotel right next to the University of the Philippines allowed us to easily walk around campus. We discovered places to eat, we walked to classes at the Architecture building, Arki, and we walked or took a Jeepney to the nearby mall. We spent most of our free time using the wifi at the UP Town Center to research and attempt to upload photos.
Our time at the University of the Philippines working with our architecture graduate student counterparts from UP was a great experience. The Filipino students have a fresh perspective on design and they were very helpful with sharing their experiences and cultural knowledge about the Philippines. We had some time to hang out with them and talk about the similarities and differences between our lives. A theme throughout the trip was that no matter where you go, people are the innately the same everywhere.
The Philippines has a rich in history which is proudly displayed and maintained throughout Manila. The city is not as much of an international tourist destination like the other cities that we visited during our travels. Outside of attending the International University Seminar on Asian Megacities (IUSAM) held at UP on week one, we experienced very little diversity. The biggest culture shock in Manila was how extremely dense the city is. Riding the MRT during rush hour on our first full day in the Philippines, in hindsight, was not the best idea, but it was one of my most culturally authentic experiences.
My expectations always begin the same with each city. All cities are derived from the crops which once supported their economy, central business districts are filled with buildings which mostly resemble “typical” Asian architecture, and the surrounding area is farm country. Having traveled to various other cities like Beijing, Shanghai, and Jakarta; I have experienced
cities that are far different from these expectations. Yet, I have a very difficult time removing this block from my mind. As I travel to each new city, I see that each city my expectations are curbed over and over. My goal for this the upcoming city of Manila is to remove that expectation from my mind. I feel that in a way, it has almost already been beaten out of me at this point. It brings a fresh perspective to experience a new city with fewer expectations and less westernized cultural ideas, hopefully allowing me to view the city for what it truly is. On that note, visiting Manila has created a better understanding for what a typical “westernized” culture means. I also find that I attribute a lot of my misinterpreted
expectations of Asian cities to this word. Would I expect typical busting cities of large populations if I thought of them as just cities? Maybe my issue is that I fear for cultures that assimilate to other customs as they may lose their own identities. Manila has helped me to see that westernization does not mean losing it’s own identity as much as it means it’s capable of evolving.
FROM A HOUSE TO A HOME
H o me v s H o use
F orming Home
Home Without a House
“T h e h o u s e i s a to o l f o r a ch i e v i n g ho m e .”
“Relationship of the dweller to the dwelling.”
Manila’s Infor ma l Set t lemen t s
House and home are often thought of as one and the same. So the statement “we go home to our house” seems redundant, but when looked at closer it isn’t at all. The house is our destination. The house is a concrete entity, in a specific location that home is associated with. Where does that association come from? What makes that house feel like home? Feel. Home is a feeling: “this feels like home.” A sense: “it tastes like home, it smells like home.” A house is the place in which we form the memories that make it feel like home.
Home is not static, it is an ever evolving journey. Home is formed with the people that we share ourselves with. It is built on past memories which make it feel familiar. It is about creating new memories. Home is not always functional or beautiful, it’s an experience. It is a relationship, a series of relationships with the tangible and intangible. Home evokes who we are and helps form a secure sense of identity. It is pride in what we have created. Home grows with us.
Nearly 4.5 million (35%) of Metro Manila’s population live in informal settlements. This means they do not have a legitimate house according to the Philippine government, because they are not lawfully occupying the land. Due to this, they are at constant risk of having their houses demolished. The residents of these settlements not only build their houses, they build a community and their own identity of home. These settlements are where their families are and in many cases where they grew up. While the settlements are not beautiful or even safe, the residents are secure in their familiarity.
TIANNA / NICK Exploring Manila has presented me with countless memorable opportunities to meet new people, but I must say the children amazed me the most. From their personalities to their wildness and curiosity, they seem to be engaged in any and everything, and for that I admire them. They continuously captured my attention while the their personalities spoke volumes to me. Despite their current living conditions they smile, laugh, run and observe everything. Makes you really wonder why we ever complain over the little things‌. like seriously? I was reminded no matter how difficult and tough the world is, always remember to see beauty in the simple things.
"We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open." - J a wa ha ri a l N e h r u
LE Y T E
LIBBY / LAUREN T Leyte was incredible. I learned so much and was able to open my eyes/empathize with incredible people from just a short conversation. Upon arrival, most people were apprehensive but once we explained that we were there to learn and connect with them, their attitudes changed. Conversing with the adults wasn’t too challenging and the kids definitely took advantage of having new people visit. The last site we visited on the first day was my favorite simply because of the people. There were a TON of kids that pretty much attacked us with laughter and smiles. Before we left I took one last glance around: the concrete rows of units were dirty though brightly painted, the streets were unpaved and the grass overgrown with weeds. It was a dire site. But then I looked at the people: adults were in the distance but watching with hawk eyes, kids were playing basketball and climbing all over the hoops like hooligans, and teenagers were sitting on a short concrete wall adjacent to the basketball court watching and laughing. This community was so positive and resilient despite the conditions. It was a powerful moment for me. On the second day, I saw our group in a different light. I became conscious of what was actually happening: white vans pull up unannounced, tall Americans climb out of the AC filled vans, then we wander around with expensive cameras and ask about their life. We were being so intrusive, and I was very upset that I didn’t realize it earlier. A few of us brought it up with our professor. He explained that they are used to random people coming to check up on them. We were with social workers, whom the people know and respect, so by default we could be trusted. Plus, Filipinos are naturally welcoming and open, so they were probably okay with sharing their story. That made me feel somewhat better though I still felt like privileged little blonde princess.
WATER TRANSPORT
R e s e a rc h
O bs ervation
Solution
Wat e r o n a G l o b al S c al e
San A gust in, Ley t e
Safe and Ergonomi c
A few facts about the water crisis and issues of water transportation: 663 million people lack access to safe water [U.N. Water Quality Fact sheet, May 2013]. Diarrhoeal disease is the 3rd leading cause of death among kids under 5. It’s estimated that more than 340,000 children under 5 die annually from this disease due to poor sanitation, poor hygiene, or unsafe drinking water , almost 1,000 per day [WHO/UNICEF Joint Monitoring Programme Report, 2015]. Women & girls spend up to 6 hours every day fetching water [United Nations Water and Gender Fact sheet, May 2013].
My group noticed that many resettlement sites in Leyte were without potable water. For our studio project, we are proposing a system that will harness, filter, and store rainwater, which is often wasted due to the lack of a collection system. Our idea is to create a simple kit of parts that can be obtained in phases for these sites. We are specifically looking at a community in San Agustin. There are about 750 people living here, surrounded by rice fields. This project would supply the people with an additional source of drinking water and relieve the burden of having to purchase water as often.
Clean drinking water will be accessed by a foot pump in a community space my group is designing. I am working to develop a way the women and children can transport the potable water back to their houses. Based on observation, many of the women have infants that they would carry to the community water space. Therefore, a one-handed and lightweight structure is needed. Research as well as personal tests have also led me to believe that the pushing or pulling of an object is a safe and ergonomic solution.
SAM / LAURA Visiting Leyte was a thoughtful experience. During our time there, I found myself in a state of introspection. We visited communities throughout the region that were formed in response to typhoon Yolanda. However, what struck me was not the devastation, but the resilience. It seemed familiar. Loss of livelihood, home, belongings, family; these troubles were only the beginning. And yet as I talked to them individually, it became clear that their heart and hopes were stronger. There was a sense of indestructibility in their minds, each community a village of brothers. I thought of my family, and how our response through hardship was similar. I realized that the severity of even the most unbelievable hardship can be overcome by the heart and hope of a community that refuses to give up.
T HA IL A N D
One of the few countries that were never colonized by European power, Thailand is an interesting case of how a country grappled with its identity on its own ter ms. Bangkok was filled with many surprises. On our first d a y, K a s e t s a r t U n i v e r s i t y s t u d e n t s l e d u s t h ro u g h a tour of Old Town, Chao Praya River, and Wat Po temple complex. Aside from Pad Thai (flat rice noodles with egg, shrimp, bean sprouts and peanuts) and Tom Yung Gung (spicy and sour soup with lemongrass, shrimp, garlic), scorpions, grasshopers and silk worms were among gastronomic treats that we tried. We visited Ayutthaya, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the old capital of Siam before it was moved to Bangkok. The three towering chedi (mound-like structures) of Wat Phra Sri Sanphet formed a serene setting for meditation.
DAHAM / ZHENG Our base in Bangkok was the Ambassador Hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 11, a street of foreigners and the daytime commerce and nighttime entertainment that caters to them. Each breakfast, I stuffed down bacon and eggs, Pakistani biryani and Thai congee, then sat in the lobby. Invariably I’d people watch; Thai staff, red eyed Japanese salarymen, Indian textile importers with henna beards, West Africans in dashikis speaking quick French. Bangkok is an international city, a scrappy mosaic of the bit players of globalization. A place that shuffles identities; my parents came from Sri Lanka and as a first generation immigrant my identity is continuously being negotiated. I was just another tourist in Southeast Asia, lost under the sweltering tropical sun, but I first met our Thai counterparts with a bow and palms pressed; their “Sawadee”, my “Ayubowan”, Nagas, tuk-tuks, echoes of Sanskrit, the taste of coconut milk, the scent of incense and the burning of stone steps at temples on my bare feet. Familiar but not American, neither was I in Sri Lanka, a place alien to me. In Thailand I found a neutral space, where I could relate to the culture without being part of it. Which is what my trip was personally about; I was born to stories of developing Asia, its cultures, histories, lifestyles and the violence of limited resources and frail societies. I traveled to Southeast Asia with a vast map of knowledge of the region, and I aimed to connect this to visceral sensations and emotional resonances. Some places I’d be another American abroad, but for a moment in Thailand, I felt a special bond.
PAD THAI
5 tbsp
4 c hi ves
1.5 tbs p
1.5 tb s p
2 tbsp
.5 tsp
.25 cup
1 c up
2 we d g e s
2 tb sp
1 egg
5 oz
History You should seek out Pad Thai in Bangkok. You will find it through a crow ded s t reet lat e at night a cros s from st al ls s el l i ng cheap elect roni cs and t - shir t s, und er over passes, in l onel y al leys and bra z enl y on t he cur b i n front of a club or hot el , are numerous food st al ls, dr aw ing i n a l l sorts of people, Thais of al l social cl a s s es and ev er y t ou r i s t i n t he cit y. It l ives t o it s reput at ion a s t he national dish. Look for a place to make it for you fresh. There’ll be a cont ainer of r i ce nood le, neat b oxes of eggs, t ofu, d r i ed shr imp, l ime, pea nut s and bean sp rout s . T here’l l be bo t t l es of sour t amar ind p ul p , pungent and salty fish sauce, and palm sugar and some neces s a r y T hai chil ies. Al l mi xed t o t ast e and st i r fr i ed in a w ok. T his i s how P ad T hai sho ul d b e made; don’t take short cuts, with soy sauce or boxed mixes. I t ’ l l b e w or t hw hile. P a d Tha i is a simple and quick recipe, adaptable to all tastes and easy to make.
ELLY / LAUREN M Thailand is a place full of colorful patterns, humble worship, and brilliant smiles. We had the chance to interact with some local college students while we were there; thanks to them, we were able to see the country from different perspectives and definitely felt like we were being immersed into the culture. Palaces, temples, and images of the royal family were everywhere in Bangkok. People also practice and honor Buddhism highly, and monks (which you can also see everywhere) are sacred symbols of the religion. Thailand was the only nation in the region that didn’t become a property of a European country during the colonial time. They thrived hard to keep their proud traditions but at the same time also learn from the Western powers, even until modern times. It has always been one of the most popular Asian destinations and a fantasy land for foreigners. Despite its successfulness, we also saw social issues, like the night wanderers on street sides who were very obvious but somewhat ignored. The most surprising thing to me was probably how spicy the food was there. Although I absolutely love love love Thai food, often times I had to stop eating and stare at the yummy stuff with my mouth watering, just because my tongue was literally on fire. Peaceful, joyful, and cheerful is how I would describe the country; and these values are also well reflected in its people. If people are the most beautiful scenery of a place, then Thailand is the place to be.
What struck me most in Bangkok was the justaposition that pervaded the city. The beautiful, ornate temples, decorated with festive colors and intricate sculptures stand next to sleek glass highrises. Shops selling traditional Thai silk were on the same street as the business centers that power the current economy. It’s not something that you see often in modern cities, this integration of the old and new, traditional and
modern. I have found in most places I’ve been to that there is either a very clear historical district and another, separate central business district, or the city is almost entirely defined by one or the other. For example, Manila has a distinct historic area, Intramuros (it’s literally walled in, making it even more distinct than your typical historic district), and Makati, the upscale financial center. Or there are cities like Ayutthaya, our other destination in Thailand. Ayutthaya is an entirely historic city, with only the basic traces of modernity needed to carry on with everyday life. It was the capital of Thailand before Bangkok, and has been preserved as a momument to Thai culture and heritage. I think that Thailand
has so successfully integrated their past identity with their present identity because of the fact that they have an extensive history to draw from, all of which is their own. Thailand was never occupied by an outside country, thus their cultural heritage was never interrupted. As the country grew, the new was simply able to seamlessly fit right in with the old without a question as to how or why.
THAI TEXTILES Thailand was a great trip full of new friends, impressive temples, busy night markets, and little sleep. The first day students from Kasestart University met us to show our group around the old town of Bangkok. The students were incredibly personable and informative. It was fun to joke around with them about the spicy food (that wasn’t spicy to them at all!) and compare stories about architecture and studio. They ended our long day with a relaxed rooftop dinner while live music drifted up from the deck below. The third day we traveled to Kasestart University and met up with the students again. We joined their class and did an activity to promote design thinking and empathy for the client. My partner was Poy, one of the students from the other day. We tried our hardest to do the exercise but mostly talked and joked about other things. The language and cultural boundary was very apparent during the hour-long activity. Most Asians are shy by nature and will nod/agree even if they had no idea what you were saying. However, Poy was persistent in asking questions in order to better understand. Unfortunately my explanations often made him more confused because I used different lingo and more complex terms. The conversation bounced back and forth: Poy asking me to re-explain and me trying to explain in the simplest way. After the activity, the class talked about some of
I n Th a i l a n d ...
R evitalize T hai Silk
Silk
T h a i l a n d Te xt i l e/F ab ri c
Jim T hompson
Al l about Si l k
When I was in Bangkok, Thailand I was impressed by their textiles and fabric patterns. They have their own traditional way to weave which is really interesting, and they have many different patterns. These observations really sparked my interest on the subject, and in the future I plan to research Thai textiles that have particularly interesting patterns and look at the different kinds of fabric they use. I also would like to understand the Thai fabric industry. Among this information that I research, I want to focus on Jim Thompson, an American that revitalized the Thai silk industry.
Jim Thompson is an American architect/ designer/ businessman who made a great contribution to Thailand’s silk industry in between 1950s and 1960s. In late 1946, He moved to Thailand and focueds on silk business. In 1948, he found the Thai Silk Company Limted with his partner , George Barrie.
• How to Make Silk? • How to Dye Silk? • Silk Features and Benefits • Patterns of Jim Thompson
Pattern Design my pa t t er n After all of my research is complete, I am planning to design my own textile patterns inspired by the ones created in Thailand.
LIBBY / JIN Thailand was a great trip full of new friends, impressive temples, busy night markets, and little sleep. The first day students from Kasestart University met us to show our group around the old town of Bangkok. The students were incredibly personable and informative. It was fun to joke around with them about the spicy food (that wasn’t spicy to them at all!) and compare stories about architecture and studio. They ended our long day with a relaxed rooftop dinner while live music drifted up from the deck below. The third day, we traveled to Kasestart University and met up with the students again. We joined their class and did an activity to promote design thinking and empathy for the client. My partner was Poy, one of the students from the first day. We tried our hardest to do the exercise, but mostly talked and joked about other things. The language and cultural boundary was very apparent during the hour-long activity. Most Asians are shy by nature and will nod/agree even if they had no idea what you were saying. However, Poy was persistent in asking questions in order to better understand. Unfortunately, my explanations often made him more confused because I used different lingo and more complex terms. The conversation bounced back and forth: Poy asking me to reexplain and me trying to explain in the simplest way. After the activity, the class talked about some of the challenges we faced and what we learned. It seemed that other groups experienced the cultural boundary too. Americans typically take everything at face value, no means no and yes means yes. Asians are more respectful and reserved, what they say might not be what they mean. To be able to understand this from a personal experience was beneficial, and I know I can carry this lesson into my future.
"We lean forward to the next crazy venture beneath the skies." - J a c k K e ro u a c
CAMBODIA From Bangkok, we flew directly to Siem Reap, a province on the northwest part of Cambodia. Siem Reap, whose name literally means “Defeat of Siam”, houses the vast and rich heritage of Angkor. Our main agenda was to experience the UNESCO World Heritage Site inscribed temple complexes spread all throughout the region. After getting our temple pass, we visited a wide range of Khmer temples in various states of ruins and reconstruction. Angkor Thom, built at the end of the 12th century, is famous for Bayon, the state temple with its towers covered with faces. The elegant and smaller scale Bantay Srei featured delicate relief work on pink sandstone. Large trees have dominated and grown through the temples of Ta Phrom. Angkor Wat, the largest religious complex in the world, was breathtaking and awe-inspiring with its moats, causeways, basrelief murals, and prasat or towers. Having stood the ravages of time, the temples still stand today, serene and dramatic as it was envisioned centuries before. Of course, recent popular culture has celebrated Angkor through the movie “Tomb Raider.” We could have sworn we saw Lara Croft among the ruins.
SAMMY / HALIE
Our trip to Cambodia was characterized by a wonderful sense of discovery. It opened my mind to the amazing structures that humans can create, even with limited resources, to honor their deities. The Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat temples were of massive size and architectural wonder. To reach the first temple I rode an elephant, an experience that I will never forget. They are such gentle and seemingly emotional creatures. Exploring the temple ruins was a fantastic adventure. Rock was crumbled all around me. I love to witness the decay of structures and materials. It proves that nothing is impervious and that architecture too will one day return to the earth.
At the very top of the Angkor Wat complex I stumbled on a mother cat nursing her young, a beautiful image that has stuck with me. The juxtaposition of these small creatures next to large, man-made rock structures and intricate carvings struck me, and it was amazing to see that a mother would climb all the way to the top in order to protect her young. The open air temples were not only for the use of humans, but housed and protected many other creatures as well.
The life and practices of a Buddhist monk are fascinating to me. They devote their lives to their religion and to following their moral code. They live a solitary life, not connected to possessions and earthly desires. Their lives revolve around suffering, the belief that everything in life is suffering and that the main purpose is to alleviate this suffering. Coming in contact with them, I could feel their devotion to their practice and they had a calming effect on me. At the top of Angkor Wat I received a blessing from a monk. He tied a red, braided string around my wrist and recited a blessing with all 8 ties. Once the bracelet falls off the blessings will be passed onto me. These are life moments I will cherish.
On our last day in Cambodia, we took a boat ride through a floating village outside of Siem Reap, complete with homes, stores, and even schools. Incredible to think that people can live the vast majority of their lives completely detached from solid ground. They say that there are days every so often that everyone in the community “moves,� tying their homes to the back of their boats and rearranging with their neighbors. These communities rely heavily on fishing, and we also saw where there were alligators being kept for their leather.
The complex of Angkor Wat and Ankor Thom were unforgettable, exploration was practically infinite. There was so much to see, but this shot from the West entry leading to the central temple of Angkor Wat synthesized things for me. I found the coexisting of both the Buddhist and Hindu religion fascinating, especially when the US, in many ways, is facing a lot of issues with acceptance of other belief systems. This image is a statue of the Hindu god, most likely Vishnu, however, the god is clothed in the saffron robes of the Theravada Buddhist tradition.
Our tour guides brought us to a dinner and traditional dance the first night in Cambodia. Their hands are both a little disturbing, and mesmerizing. In order to have their hands and fingers to bend in such a way, they have to stretch them back regularly. We all immediately proceeded to stretch our hands back to get them to move in the same way. We were mostly unsuccessful. Their very slow meditative dance was incredible and beautiful to watch.
CAMILLE / TYLER We flew straight to Cambodia after Bangkok. It was a hot and sweaty blur of amazing temples. Our first night we went to a dinner show where we watched traditional dancing, and after that we went to see a very fake boxing match...still pretty entertaining. On our first full day in Siem Reap, we went to the Angkor Complex where most of us rode elephants through the complex gates. We worked our way through lots of smaller temples up to the main one, Angkor Wat (Angkor means city and Wat means temple). Something really cool about the complex is that you can climb on and explore pretty much all of the temples. At Angkor Wat we climbed the very steep steps to the top where the Buddhist shrine is. At the shrine, a Buddhist monk tied a piece of red string around my wrist and with each knot he said a blessing. For the next couple of days it smelled like the incense that was lit during the prayer ceremonies. The next morning, we woke up to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat. Later that day, we went to the temple that Tomb Raider was filmed at, which was probably my favorite one in the complex. The tree roots grew on and around the temples, it looked like melting candle wax. Our last day we took a boat out onto a river where whole communities had been built out of boats; they had houses, stores, mechanic shops, and schools all on these boats. There were even neighborhoods of sorts on different parts of the river. One unexpected thing about Cambodia that I liked, and found maybe a little too fun was bartering prices at the local markets. I bought a lot more than I should have...oops.
ANGKOR WAT Thailand was a great trip full of new friends, impressive temples, busy night markets, and little sleep. The first day students from Kasestart University met us to show our group around the old town of Bangkok. The students were incredibly personable and informative. It was fun to joke around with them about the spicy food (that wasn’t spicy to them at all!) and compare stories about architecture and studio. They ended our long day with a relaxed rooftop dinner while live music drifted up from the deck below. The third day we traveled to Kasestart University and met up with the students again. We joined their class and did an activity to promote design thinking and empathy for the client. My partner was Poy, one of the students from the other day. We tried our hardest to do the exercise but mostly talked and joked about other things. The language and cultural boundary was very apparent during the hour-long activity. Most Asians are shy by nature and will nod/agree even if they had no idea what you were saying. However, Poy was persistent in asking questions in order to better understand. Unfortunately my explanations often made him more confused because I used different lingo and more complex terms. The conversation bounced back and forth: Poy asking me to re-explain and me trying to explain in the simplest way. After the activity, the class talked about some of
The Khmers were concerned with microcosms and macrocosms. Angkor Wat is meant to be a microcosm of the Hindu cosmology, a radial form where reality emanates from a center; Mt. Meru the home of the gods. Outward are numerous key nodes, lesser mountains, homes of lesser gods, the form generating a Mandala. This mandala permeated reality for the Khmers, it was their empire, where the Khmer monarch ruled not to extents of his borders, but as far as civilization radiated out. His power fading out as the people capable of understanding it dwindled to illiterate tribes on the periphery.
To create a holy temple matching the form of the universe and empire placed the Khmer king as the new center of the universe, annointed by Angkor Wat, visible to all. But society changes, and the Khmers turned from hindu metaphors to buddhist austerity, Thai armies erased the metropolis around Angkor Wat and the Khmer Rouge and Vietnamese sprayed it with bullets. We live in a scientific universe, there is no sacred mountain. We can marvel at the forms of Angkor Wat, but society has moved past it’s references, we know it’s meaning but cannot understand it, for our civilization cannot be summarized by a single built diagram.
“He, the Creator (Visvakarman), … lays out the plan of the universe according to measure and number…. He is the prototype and model of the temple builder, who also unites in his single person, the architect, the priest, and the sculptor…. This small universe (temple) has to be situated with respect to the vaster universe, of which it forms a part…. Far from being a simple arithmetical operation to be achieved by applying the measuring rod, the layout of a temple is based on the fundamental cosmic and metaphysical conceptions that govern the whole structure….” -Ramacandra Kaulacara 11th century Orissan architect.
CHARLES / LAUREN T Seen from a far distance, it’s difficult to appreciate how big the temple complex of Angkor Wat really is. Walking across a wide, rail-less footbridge you are greeted by a large wall which blocks all views of what lies beyond. The wall, like much of the other construction, is built using a nearly invisible mortar with beautifully intricate carvings in bas relief that begin to describe much of what the complex represents. Interestingly, as the temple has gone through transitions of the most prominent religions, many of the carvings have been edited or re-carved in order to more appropriately align with the current religion of the time. How can it be that an entire complex was lost in time? The Angkor Wat temple as shown to the left is the largest in the complex and was certainly no mistake. The Angkor Wat Temple is a symbol for the universe and as such, was designed very deliberately, with an immense amount of symbolism that can be experienced and seen throughout the temple. It’s truly impossible to describe what being in the complex feels like. One particularly interesting moment was traveling up to the highest level of the temple and then returning to the second level, failing to realize that it was not the ground level, as it was so expansive. The natural wildlife also helps to bring a certain mythical element.
The time we spent in Cambodia, specifically Angkor Wat, stood out to me amongst the other places that we visited simply because of its scale and how vast the complex was. It seemed so strange to be in a place so magnificent and yet so abandoned. Of course, there were many tourists, but the use of the area had drastically changed from its original religious purposes.
To see these huge structures and then to see the how nature had almost completely overtaken the site was a jarring reminder of how powerful the course of time and nature truly is. One of my favorite parts of the complex was the site we visited on the second day of our trip, Ta Prohm. Ta Prohm is known widely for it’s location use in the movie Tomb Raider, and being there you could easily see how inspiring this site was, and how nature had almost taken it back completely. To see the roots of huge trees growing through the cracked concrete was overwhelming. The trees were so huge that they reminded you of how long the temples had been there, for the trees to have had the time to overtake them in the way they did.
Seeing the huge roots was a reminder that these trees had been here for hundreds of years, another intense reminder that somehow these buildings had been here for almost a thousand. Trying to grasp that time of reference was very humbling. Standing there I could almost imagine the building growing into the trees, instead or the other way around.
"If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion an d a v o i d the people, you might better stay home." - J a mes M i c h e n e r
Traveling for about six hours from Manila, we arrived in the province of La Union and later Ilocos in the northern part of the country. Together with the University of the Philippines – College of Architecture, we zig-zagged around the Ilocos region visiting the various UNESCO World Heritage-inscribed baroque churches of Paoay, Ilocos Norte and Santa Maria, Ilocos Sur as well as other Spanish-colonial churches of Sarrat (Ilocos Norte) and the ruins of Pindangan (La Union).
I LO CO S
CAROLINE / HALIE Many of our best cultural experiences were had in Ilocos. As we traveled from Ilocos Sur to Ilocos Norte, we visited pristine beaches, the workshop of Inabel weavers, the Hispanic city of Vigan, and several historic churches. One of these churches was Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte. It was built in the early 18th century in the “Earthquake Baroque” style. This was one of the best examples of how Spanish colonial design was adapted to fit the Filipino culture and climate. It was interesting to notice that no matter what time we entered a church, it was full of people worshiping. It was a different atmosphere than many of the churches I’m familiar with in the US. It seems to reflect the vibrant and passionate culture that we experienced everywhere in the Philippines. We learned more about the Spanish colonial past in Vigan. Accompanied by students from UP, we began to realize just how diverse the Philippines is. As the only Caucasian people during most of the trip, we fell into the trap of thinking the country was a fairly uniform culture. We were proven wrong when we experienced the different language, cuisine, slang, transportation, and architecture of Vigan. The difference became clear when even our Filipino counterparts were stumped!
While in Ilocos, we visited the Inabel Weavers and had the opportunity to watch the women weave. Interestingly, there are two women that are involved in the process, where it is usually just one. One woman sits at the front of the loom, as the woman in green is here, and passes a “shuttle,” or boat like object that passes thread, back and forth, creating the overunder weave structure. This creates a stable piece of cloth.
The second woman stands at the back of the loom, where this image was taken from. It is her job to activate specific “warp,” the green threads in this image, in sequence to create the desired pattern. The white strings sitting atop the warp in the above image are connected to rods, and these are what will lift the correct threads.
Above is an example of a completed section of cloth. This piece is still connected to the loom, and in the process of being woven. They had woven with both thick white, and thin blue, cotton thread in all of the pieces. They have many, many traditional and inspired patterns, and would even make blankets and projects to order in the color desired. They had a good amount of items for sale, all beautiful, all slightly flawed signaling a handmade product. A number of us came home with a sample ourselves.
WEAVING EARTH, MAN, AND HEAVEN
Ty p i ca l I l o ca n o Lo o m
Shaf t
F oot Ped a l s
oppe r a t e d b y two wo m en
tri angular s pace by which to pas s wef t threads
creates s haf ts , l i f ti ng ev ery other th rea d
P i n i l i an
A gkabkabayo
Whirlpool
par t i cu l a r t y p e o f we avin g u s i n g weft “fl o ats”
agriculture god on horseback
pleas es the wind g od , f or blankets and s hi p s a i l s
ILOCANO TEXTILES It seems t o be onl y now t hat Fil ipi nos a re gr asping on t o t hei r her it age. For more t han 400 years t hey hav e been u nd ercut and explo i t ed b y cul t ures sw eep i ng i n t o pr imar ily benefi t t hemselv es. Wea vi ng is one exam p l e of fleet ing t r ad i t i on. Most of t hos e w ho cont inue t o w e a ve a re deeply w r inkled , eyes dul l w it h t ime, a nd posess slow ing ha nd s cont aining ir rep l a ca b l e know ledge. Thes e skil ls are se l d om passed on. Yo ut h s ee more oppor t u ni t y i n cit ies, l ike M a ni l a , w here ser vic e j ob s appear abun d a nt . How ever, w ea vi ng i n ind iginous Fi l i p i no cul t ure is cons i d ered sacred. In anci ent scr ipt ure it is w r i t t en t hat “t he w orl d w a s w oven of w arp a nd w eft .� War p, t he l ong t hreads st retchi ng from t he back of t he loom t ow ards t he w eaver, are cons i d ered an ext ensio n of heav en, w hile t he w eft , or crossing t hrea d s are considered t o represent ma n, w i t h t he complet e cl ot h st r uct ure, be i ng a square or rec t a ng l e, represent s ea r t h.
SAM / NICK The visit to Ilocos was one of the biggest highlights of the entire trip for me. After joining a few dozen design students from the University of the Philippines, our large group embarked on a six hour drive through the night to Ilocos . I did not sleep but, instead enjoyed the passing scenery during the night and viewed activity that I didn’t expect. When the darkness fell and traffic diminished, both road and path became an extension of the residential space. Children moved from the confines of their cramped homes to reclaim the land around them. Our buses plowed through, and children moved to the side with basketballs and animals alike, and I felt oddly intrusive, as if, even though the road was our passage, we had just invaded a home. The sun rose and we toured a number of stunning churches, gathering spaces, markets and architecture. Early in the afternoon our buses stopped at the bottom of a large hill and in groups of three or four, we took an exhilarating ride on “tricycles� (small motorcycles with even smaller carriages attached to the side) up the hill to the base of a lighthouse overlooking the coast. The view from the lighthouse was a perfect precedent for the experience that followed. As our tour came to an end and the exhaustion of the trip set in, we arrived at our final destination: the Pagudpud beaches of Ilocos Norte. I had never set foot onto a beach, and allowed my feet to sink into the white sands. I had little intention to move into the water, but was urged by my travel-mates to carry on. As I did , I felt the fear and exhaustion melt away as the magnificence of the uncrowded beach and clear blue waters sank in. I could not believe the beauty around me, and promised myself not to wait another twenty-two years before seeing it again.
“I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen.� - B enj a mi n D i s r a e l i
HO N G KO N G
The compact city of Hong Kong is an interesting case illustrating the effects of highly dense urbanization. With its vertiginous skyscrapers, impressive architecture, historic areas and fastpaced subways, Hong Kong is a cosmopolitan city filled with a flurry of activities. A former British territory and now a special administrative region of China, the city is replete with colonial history mixed with Asian culture and international commerce. Staying at the Mei Ho House, a former public housing project turned into a hostel in the Sham Shui Po area, showed us a glimpse of how it means living in the dense city.
ZHENG / DAHAM Our third short trip outside the Philippines was to Hong Kong and Macau. I had been to Hong Kong three times before. Eight years ago, when I first came to Hong Kong with my parents, I was so fascinated by this city. Everything is so fast, so crowed, , and so expensive. At that time, to a working-class family like mine, a trip to Hong Kong was really a big deal. As one of the most developed Asian cities since 19th century, Hong Kong has always been a fantasy to mainland China, showing the impact of western culture and technology on an Asian territory. The public transportation was amazing, clean, punctuated and reaching to all directions. The huge crowd of people and buildings was quite overwhelming, and I almost felt restrained. Especially when you see the giant chunks of apartments, you can barely see the sky beyond. Our tour guide was Edson’s old friend who was now a professor at SCAD’s Hong Kong Campus. He was very knowledgeable about the culture, history and social issues in Hong Kong, a whole lot more so than most mainland Chinese. In my opinion, because most family trips are usually soaked with shopping, food, and entertainment, they usually fail to really observe the real and complicated sides of Hong Kong. Culturally, I found it interesting that in Hong Kong and Taiwan, Taoism is more influential than Buddhism while Buddhism is way more popular in mainland. In addition, traveling with people from diverse backgrounds also offered me a new way to perceive Asian culture.
FROM A HOUSE TO A HOME MAINLAND CHINA SHENZHEN
2
$922/ft
NEW TERRITORIES (NORTH)
FANLING 2
$731/ft
2
$934/ft
TIN SHUI WAI
2
$8,499/ft
YUEN LONG
TAI PO Park Belvedere $898/ft2
NEW TERRITORIES (WEST)
2
$10,595/ft
2
$1088/ft
TUEN MUN
NEW TERRITORIES
SHA TIN 2
$906/ft
2
2
$1,117/ft
$1,351/ft
2
$1,288/ft
SHAM SHUI PO $1,944/ft2 TSING YI KOWLOON TONG 2 Subdivided Units TSIM SHA TSUI $710/ft $206/month KOWLOON KWUNTONG 4'(L) x2'(W)x3'(H) OPUS
$8,784/ft2
POK FU LAM 2
$1,956/ft
HONG KONG 2 ISLAND $1,953/ft
ISLANDS
STANLEY
POPULATION DENSITY 2
>50,000 people/km
2
<50,000 people/km
2
<10,000 people/km 2
<3,000 people/km
2
<1,000 people/km Not builtup
S u b d i v i d ed Un i t
Park Belvedere
O PU S
L o w- In co m e
Midd le- Income
Luxur y
The subdivided unit is a new, typical arrangement in older city districts in Hong Kong. In some extreme cases, smaller “cage” or “coffin” units have as many as three beds stacked in a 30-square-foot space. A typical “coffin” unit in Mong Kok that is about 4’(L) x 2’(W) x 3’(H) leases at a monthly rental of $206. Free wifi, free electricity and free air conditioning are provided. A lot of families living in the subdivided units are on the waiting list of public rental housing scheme provided by the government. The scheme selects the applicants based on the families’ vulnerbaility and overall wage.
Park Belvedere is one of the housing estates developed by the government under the Sandwich Class Housing Scheme in late 1990’s. Theschemeaimedtoofferapartments to middle-income families who could not afford private housing. Park Belvedere is located in Shatin and offers 882 flats. The average price in September 2015 was $ 6,962 per sf for purchasing and $2,064 per month for rent. A typical 817 sq.ft apartment that has three bedrooms and one living room costs $5,500,000, while In Ohio, apartments that are 600-800 sf usually run about $500-$600 per month.
Opus is a 12-unit residential highrise located at 53 Stubbs Road on Victoria Peak. The building was designed by Frank Gehry and completed in 2012. It is wellknown as Gehry’s first Asian residential project and also as the most expensive apartment in Asia. The building consists 12 units ranging from 6,000 to 6,900 sf. An additional 2,500 sf. space was provided for facilities such as underground parking, a swimming pool and gyms. Opus affords its residents 180-degree panoramic view of the city. This Opus show apartment was designed by North American design firm Yabu Pushelberg.
SAMMY / LAUREN M One of my fondest memories from Hong Kong was our trip to the largest sitting Buddha in the mountains, by way of a terrifying but exhilarating cable car ride 500 feet above the water and over the mountains. The car went over a peak and the Buddha came into view, so large perched on the hilltop, hand outstretched, calling me over. It is amazing how religious structures and statues are always so much larger than life. They induce a feeling of total insignificance as a tiny human, but I was completely at peace with this fact staring at such an amazingly beautiful scene. The beauty and grandeur of Hong Kong and Macau struck me and are experiences I will carry with me.
CAROLINE / TYLER
Hong Kong is, in a word, dramatic. The landscape consists of the bay, dense urban areas, and mountains with little to no transition between. The urban areas make the most of the land ordinances set by the government, so they build vertically. Many areas resemble a Le Corbusier “Tower in the Park” scheme, wit h a g r i d of re p eti ti v e to wer s . E ve n c o m p are d to Manila, it felt incredibly dense, an d a t t i me s , s u ff o c ati n g . We h a d a re co n n e c ti o n to th e Ph i l i p p i n e s w h e n w e happened upon the crowds of Filipina caretakers occupying public spaces on their day off. It was a use of public space that we had never seen before.
The highlight of our first day had to be the hike up to Victoria Peak to get a view of the city. Our self-confidence diminished with each sweaty stop we took up this mile-high climb, but we actually got an incredible night view because it took us so long! Even the smog couldn’t detract from this view. From this vista, we could truly appreciate the scale and density of the city. At the same time, it could have easily been a city in the US. It made us realize that while there are so many factors that differentiate c i t i e s , they also share many important characteristics.
Other highlights of Hong Kong included dim sum at a unique restaurant gilded in lavender velvet, abundant crystal chandeliers, and a furry stage. Yes, furry. Despite the odd venue, the dim sum was undeniably delicious. It was even more of an adventure because the menu was entirely in Chinese. For me, this was the one moment of the whole trip when I felt most like a tourist. The vibrancy that comes with a city of so many people is something that we hadn’t experienced until now. The people are very civic-minded, and have come up w i th incredibly unique ideas of how to utilize space when it’s at a premium. We enjoyed every smoggy minute of our trip here.
Lanterns float overhead as the relentless sun beats down on the crowded temple court. Penetrating through the haze of burning incense, striations of light dance before those on their knees chanting prayers beneath their breath. The ambient rattle of bamboo Kau Cim sticks permeates into the conversations of tourists taking in the spectacle of religious sanctity. Yet, even such a sanctuary cannot forget the city outside its gates, as apartment buildings tower over the meager two tier polychromatic temple structure.
Under the floating masses, I lose myself in the wonderful play of light along their tessellating brick faces. Entranced, forgetting about the city blurred in motion just outside, I meander among the large geometric forms hanging overhead, the sky filtering lightly through. Basic geometries and sweeping curves supported by parading pillars anchor to the ground this fantastic space with its ability to be simple, never trying to be anything else.
Dense high-rises mingle in the foreground as mountains peaks, from behind their summits piercing the clouds. Rising from the ground, fields of concrete stained through with the daily excretions of the city are perforated only by glass windows. And from the windows clothing hangs, drying in the gentle breeze. One can imagine a quiet, invisible spirit sweeping down from his home on the mountain top to rustle the drying garments. Here the city converses with the nature around it, coming to terms with what it once was and what it has now become.
"Wandering re-establishes the original harmony which once existed between man and the universe." - A na to l e F r a n c e
SINGAPORE Singapore was our last leg of the foreignstudy tour. Although the haze coming from the forest fires of Indonesia marred our experience of the city, we nevertheless saw Singapore as an efficient, clean and idealized urbanized area. Staying in the Tiong Bahru area, a modernist housing complex with its streamlined architecture, we enjoyed street food, quaint cafes and unique stores. The contemporary architecture was impressive such as the Marina Bay Sands, the Gardens by the Bay, the National Library, and others. As a cultural melting pot, Singapore is home to multi-national companies and a history of international trade and migration. Is Singapore a model city for the future? That remains to be a question as our group continues to discuss the impact of massive urbanization on housing of the future.
ELLY / JIN 2015 is the 50th year anniversary of Singapore; it was the last destination of our trip and a relatively young country compared to some of the other places weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been. During our visit, most of the days the sky was covered by haze caused by forest fires from Indonesia. People had to wear face masks outside to avoid health problems. We heard about the strict rules and cleanliness of the city state before our visit. Although we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel pressured being there, people were definitely nervous and aware of it. Local people told us that gum is a rare thing or special foreign gift to have, since it is illegal to sell gum in the country. While its culture is the youngest, it is probably the most diverse or distinct among all of the countries we visited. You can see influences from different cultures like Chinese, Malaysian, Indian, Middle Eastern, and European everywhere, blended into a unique Singaporean identity. Religious centers such as temples, mosques, and churches would stand along side each other in harmony. Besides the diversity it provides, it was also an easy place to get around for a new visitor. Public transportation is well established and English (or Singalish, a combination of English, Malay, and Chinese) is the main language. Singapore also offers amazing food experiences. From cheap eats in the Hawker Centers, Zam Zam Indian Restaurant at Bugis, night market and street bites from Chinatown, and cute little coffee shops hiding in the quiet Tiong Bahru neighborhood, we were definitely surprised and satisfied by all these options. Singapore might have the least land and natural resourses to start with, but people there are eager to learn from the uniqueness of each other and are not afraid of reaching out to the world. Therefore, the opportunities it presents are limitless.
SINGAPOREAN CUISINE
chicken rice
roti prata
carrot cake
char kway teow
satay
bak kut teh
katong laksa
shui kueh
hyonya
chili crab
ice kachong
kopi
SINGAPORE SLING The Singapore Sling is a gin-based cocktail created at the famous Raffles Hotel of Singapore, b y M r. N g i a m To n g Boon; a Hainanese b a r t e n d e r. M o d i f i e d from the American version, gin sling, its fruity flavor is enhanced by Sarawak pineapples from Malaysia, which creates a foamy top. The recipe they serve at the hotel now is recreated based on memories of former bartenders and written notes regarding the original recipe.
INGREDIEN TS 1 oz Gin ½ oz Heering Cherry Liqueur ¼ oz C ointrea u ¼ oz DOM Benedictine 1/3 oz Grena d i ne 4 oz Pineapple Juice ½ oz Fresh Lime Juice 1 dash A ngos t ur a bit t er s
CAMILLE / TIANNA I am just going to start off by talking about the food because one, I ate a ton of it and two, it was so good and deserves to be talked about. One of the first nights in Singapore, we went to a night market in Chinatown with a local. He was great and ordered us what felt like all the traditional dishes...so much food. Singaporean food is really interesting because it is influenced by so many different cultures: Indian, Malay, and Chinese being the main three. There were a lot of noodle dishes, some with spicy sauces and others with more of a soup; but my favorite dishes were roti prata and stingray. Roti prata is kind of like a mix between a crepe and a pancake. You can get it filled with different things from eggs and cheese to Nutella, but it is traditionally a savory dish and is dipped in a curry. had a curry sort of sauce on it and reminded me a lot of tilapia in both the texture and taste. Ahh missing it all so much! In addition to the food I really liked Singapore in general. Even with the heavy haze that was occurring while we were there, it still felt very clean. The architecture for the most part was modern and sculptural feeling. It seemed to have a pretty strong design community with a lot of small, independent shops. We also visited the National Design Centre, which showcases work from all different disciplines within design. This was one of my favorite things we did while in Singapore. Singapore was a great note to end the trip on. I would definitely like to go back and explore it more.
While in Singapore I was in tro d u ce d t o al l the fines and strict rules and regulations of the land…..
When exploring the neighborhoods of Singapore I was introduced to the consistent theme of laundry hanging on long bamboo poles that extend out of apartment Top 10 that caught my attention windows. The landscapes couldn’t that will have you FINED & or deny this sight, since almost everywhere we traveled, this was THROWN IN JAIL! happening! Visually it provided the building with color but also 1. No flower picking 2. Not Flushing Toilets added to the melting pot of 3. Gum chewing is ok, now..but cultures that lie in this country. no selling it! It also made me appreciate having a washing machine and 4. Homosexuality is forbidden dryer back home. Never take 5. Jay walking = fine and jail time anything for granted! 6. Urinating in elevators...well duh! 7. Vandalism.. common sense 8. Cant eat or drink on the metro! Don’t do it! 9. No cuddling in public! 10. Cigarettes are illegal in public
As I walk through the city…. ( slightly concerned about breaking any laws or fines ) … this sight completely stopped me in my tracks. The colors of this building speak a lot on the cultural attitude expressed here. With a city that is so “clean cut & under control”, I felt this building provided a moment of relief. So of course I had to capture it! Exploring Singapore was an amazing experience, and I am beyond grateful to have witnessed it. Now....I would definitely change the smog/ haze that filtered the air... yes not exactly the best welcoming... BUT the Singapore sites, and cultural breath taking moments made up for it. This destination surely will be a huge apart of the trip that I won’t ever forget!
THE LION CITY
M a l a y Ho uses
Shophous es
Black and W hi te Bungalo w
P re - Co l o n i al
C olonial P er iod
C olonial P e r i od
Wo r s h i p i n g Ce n te rs
Ci vic & C ommercial Buildings
A rt Deco & M od ern
C o l o n i a l Peri o d
C olonial P er iod
P ost Wa r Independency
Singapore Architecture Architecture in Singapore displays characteristics and influences from different cultures; it is a fusion style in general. Malaysian, Chinese, Indian, and Western immigrants brought in their traditions, then exchanged ideas to evolve into a new Singaporean identity. It can be allocated into three main periods: pre-colonial, British colonial, and post-WW II to independence of the country. During the British colonial time, buildings flourished in the city-state with the opening of the port. Many of them showcased the diversity of its people and ethnic groups, reflected in colorful shophouses, religious centers, black and white bungalows for government officials and more western/classical style government buildings. After independence, public housing projects became a unique icon of the new nation and have played an important part in lots of Singaporeans memories.
THANK
YOU