MUSO Travel & Lifestyle
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MU S O
Table of Contents
Travel & Lifestyle Ta k e n f r o m t h e l a n g u a g e o f E s p e r a n t o ; m e a n i n g t o f l y . Tr a n s l a t i n g t o , ‘ o n e w h o h o p e s ’ , E s p e r a n t o w a s d e v i s e d in 1987, the first tongue to cultivate nationalities winto one means of communication.Muso is a quarterly magazine created to inspire, featuring a handpicked collection of cultural snapshots from around the globe.
03 Lisboa
/musomagazine
Marketing Director Sarah Rose McCann
/musomagazine @musomagazine
06 Bournemouth
Designer Joanna Garcias Águia
hello@musomagazine.com FIND US ONLINE www.musomagazine.com
10 Béal Feirste 14 London
Designer SAY HELLO
04 Cheltenham Spa
Laurie Jay Newman
16 India 20 Cambodia
Features Editor Olivia Sarah McAdam
24 Peru 26 Brasil
Lisboa Words & photographs by Joana Garcias Águia ‘ They say, you are the places you have been to and the people you have met, and all of me hopes I am Lisbon in its entire beauty and grace.’
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The capital of Portugal, Lisbon, combines history with progress. You can almost feel our ancestors when strolling around the narrow streets in Alfama, and yet foresee what the future holds down Parque das Nações, where Expo’98 was held. Growing up with the warm weather and the blue skies; the beach was just fifteen minutes away, surrounded by beautiful, timeworn buildings that always made an honourable addition to the country’s history. Like every European city, Lisbon is a capital of culture. A field of museums, theatres and antiquity, there are always new things to discover and do. Lisbon rests over seven hills and in most of them, one can find amazing viewpoints facing all parts of the city and admire its beauty, while drinking a cold Portuguese beer and the company of street artists playing the guitar. They say, you are the places you have been to and the people you have met, and all of me hopes I am Lisbon in its entire beauty and grace.
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The city is a custom made place for everyone, even if it has not met you yet. The centre of the city, Baixa-Chiado, holds the traditional and non-traditional commerce. There you can find the best homemade ice-cream shops and the traditional pastries shops. From here you can go practically anywhere just by catching our vibrant yellow trams. You can go to Belém and see the Jeronimos Monastery, eat some traditional ‘pastéis de belém’ (traditional egg tart), or visit the São Jorge Castle that has the most breath-taking view of the Tejo river and Lisbon. There is nothing more traditional than visiting a house of Fado, a Portuguese genre of music, often very sad and nostalgic but extremely moving. Truly capturing the essence of the city. One of the most characteristic things, not just in Lisbon but in Portugal, is our gastronomy. In Portugal, to eat is more than a primary necessity, it is a tradition. I dare to say, we have some of the most tasteful food in the world and it is not gourmet food; it is simply traditional, Portuguese food that you can get in a café or a restaurant for 8 euros.
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‘Cheltenham is a piece for the eye, a breath of f resh air f rom the mayhem of the city and a touch of countryside away from the beach.’
Cheltenham SPA Words & photographs by Olivia Sarah McAdam
On the outskirts of the Cotswolds, is the regency town of Cheltenham Spa. With a fountain of historical past events, the acme of Cheltenham was for its health resort for visitors of wealth. Festivals are a huge part of Cheltenham’s culture. From the Cheltenham Gold Cup horse race festivals, to the science, jazz and literary festivals, the year is loaded with a range of events to suit all years and ages. Wychwood music festival blends up and coming collaborations with traditional ‘roots’ music. Food lovers are spoilt for choice at the summer’s Food & Drink festival, with copious varieties of cheese and ciders – just to get started on. With 350 acres of racing ground, equaling at 22 fences to be jumped and a distance of 3 and a half miles, perhaps the Gold Cup is what makes Cheltenham stand out to non-natives today. Taking place during the Cheltenham festival each March of every year, Cheltenham town becomes a warm home to those having a flying visit for the races (particularly the Irish). After working up an appetite with a day at the races, soak up The Daffodil’s contemporary vibes, where the most succulent serving of pork is served up. For a slightly more upbeat atmosphere, Harry Cook, just off the promenade, creates a cosy place to eat and
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drink. A specific burger menu, Harry Cook’s chorizo and caramelized onion jam is a feast for the taste buds. While the plates are taken away, the bar remains open, with the chance to re-watch triumphant moments from the Gold Cup on the big screen in the bar. Cheltenham’s spa water Pump Rooms opened in 1830, which was developed by Joseph Pitt (1759-1842). Inspired by the Temple of Illissus in Athens, Pitt followed through with a particular Greek theme. Fixed on the top of the Pump rooms are three statues, that of Hygeia, the Greek Goddess of health, Hippocrates, the Greek ‘father of medicine’ and physician, and Aesculapius, the God of medicine. A particular retreat for those of affluence, Cheltenham’s Pittville Pump spa water was recommended for obesity, gout, rheumatism, constipation and liver disorder. Up until the US army commandeered the Pump Rooms for army storage during the second world war. The pale, Montpellier stone in Cheltenham provides a light, classical touch to the town. With the beautiful kept gardens dotting the town centre, Cheltenham is a piece for the eye, a breath of fresh air from the mayhem of the city and a touch of countryside away from the beach. Cheltenham Spa welcomes you, whatever the occasion.
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tHE CALM SHORES OF BOURNEMOUTH Words by Laurie Jay Newman : Photographs by Robbie Strudwick & Laurie Newman ‘ There is something calm and often therapeutic about the way the sea continues to caress the shoreline.’
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‘Once in love with the sea, you are never quite the same”. When you grow up with constant sand between your toes, salty hair and the ocean at the end of the r o a d , y o u b e c o m e d e p e n d a n t o n i t a s a m a n t r a . We h a v e a relationship, the sea and I, and it still continues to calm my soul; welcome to my hometown; Bournemouth.’ Located on the Southern edge of England; the English Channel meets the rugged, Jurassic coast. Bournemouth is the epitome of diversity. Situated pleasantly between the quaint New Forest, and the doppelgänger of Palm Beach, Sandbanks. There is something calming, and often therapeutic about the way the sea continues to caress the shoreline. Many secret spots still lay undiscovered to the every day tourist, with the average visitor flocking to the town’s beach. The beach is perfectly located for an afternoon rest on the sand, after a hectic shop around Bournemouth’s main retail district. Yet, there are many other seafronts that are well suited for the visitor that longs to experience the plethora, of quiet coves in and around Dorset. Mudeford spit is one of these hidden gems, most famously associated for its sandspit of affluence. Only accessible via a small land train, a ferry, or on foot, this makes for the perfect escape. Dotted along the sandspit are 350 wooden beach chalets. From the outside these may appear like the average hut, but these are in continual demand and can reach an extortionate price of £170,000. Reaching Mudeford can appear a long-winded journey but the views of the striking Isle of Wight, or known to locals as ‘the polar bear’, are worth the distance.
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A stone throw away from Bournemouth is Sandbanks, a small peninsula that crosses the mouth of Poole Harbour. The adjacent areas of Lilliput, Canford Cliffs and Branksome Park, make up some of the wealthiest property outside of London. One of the many perks of Sandbanks is its gateway to the rest of the Jurassic coastline. With its connecting chain link ferry that runs frequent, daily services between Swanage and the Isle of Purbeck. Crossing over is effortlessly easy with even the accessibility of taking a vehicle over. On veering over to this nature reserve, you are immediately greeted with its effortless beauty. One of the great benefits of taking a car is the vast choice of destinations that you can reach. To name a few; Kimmeridge, Durdle Door, Lulworth Cover, Old Harry Rock and the famous nudist beach at Studland. Whilst venturing over to the Poole area, a visit to Brownsea Island would be well worth the time. Owned by the National Trust the island is most famous for its red squirrels, peacocks and its variety of exotic birds. From winter through to Summer, Bournemouth has so much to offer. With its wide network of ferries, trains and buses Dorset can be easily explored. Yet, if there is one thing is for sure; there’s nothing like a Bournemouth sunset.
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Beal Feirste Words & photographs by Sarah Rose McCann ‘Belfast is Rome but with more hills: it is Atlantis raised f rom the sea and f rom anywhere you look the streets glitter like jewels, like small strings of stars. However many, whatever size, it is magical.’
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Growing up in 90s Belfast, you knew where to avoid and which songs to memorize. Bomb scares - a regular occurrence and the presence of soldiers, second nature. Almost an unrecognizable city, like a phoenix which has risen from the ashes. Thirty years of ‘the troubles,’ have left their mark on architecture and scars on the people, now, ‘our wee city’, is fast becoming a tourist hotspot.
‘A l m o s t a n u n r e c o g n i z a b l e c i t y , l i k e a phoenix which has risen from the ashes.’
After the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, relative peace arrived, with the exception of sporadic riots and bombs. With peace and stability came economic prosperity and the tourism industry followed swiftly in suit. Those who were interested in finding their Irish roots felt safe enough to come home, whereas those who want to see the last peace walls in Europe, revel in coming for a troubles tour. A city surrounded by hills; Cavehill is a dominant feature throughout the city and folk are always basking in its shadow. The Ulster Museum houses collections of Irish history, art galleries and a natural history section. The new multi million pound Titanic complex in the Titanic Quarter, where the docks were built and glimpse into the life of those who built it, can be seen first hand. The MAC (Museum Arts Centre), based in the heart of the Cathedral Quarter at St Anne’s Square, it boasts more gallery space and regularly holding events, exhibitions, alongside serving fine cuisine in the restaurant.
The City Hall is the heart of Belfast. City Hall help you navigate everything needed under one roof, it also holds the Titanic Memorial Garden and during December and May bank holiday; the continental market. The brand new Belfast visitor’s center is directly across from City hall. It is urged for all new visitors to venture inside. A few doors down, is the oldest library in Northern Ireland, Linen Hall, a hit with tourists for its collection of art, books and scenic view over City Hall. After journeying through The Giants Causeway, taking in the murals of Derry/Londonderry, time may be spare for some good food and even better drink. Belfastians love food - a recent surge in high quality independent restaurants opening up around the city. The Cathedral Quarter is undoubtedly the best area to get a feel for both. The cobbled alleys lead you to a range of bars from the famous Duke of York, to the new Dirty Onion. Left spoilt for choice with restaurants such as Coppi (the best steak in the city), Made in Belfast with its edgy charm, and for lunch, The Dark House is a must with its humorous table legs. Béal Feirste has come a long way in the past decade but regardless of the history, there is a sense of new beginnings and the positivity of a generation moving forward. Embracing tourism and continual welcoming all the visitors Belfast have always longed for. Come on over, the craic’s ninety!
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London Photo diary Words & photographs by Joana Garcias Ă guia
On a sunny afternoon over the Easter break, I arrived at Victoria station and caught a taxi to meet my friend in the suburbs of London. I hadn’t seen her for a while now, so although tired, I was on cloud nine and ready for seven days of meandering through London town and catching up. This trip was a mix of a great city and great friendship all combined, and now I am left with great memories. I had almost forgotten what it felt like to laugh so much, that everything in your body starts to ache and
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you start wandering how on earth were you able to be apart from that person for so long. Indeed, when travelling, those who go with you will be as important as the places you visit. I have always loved to document my travels. Not because I wanted to show where I have been, but because I wanted to be able to keep the memories alive. When I look back at my photographs, instantly I am transported to that moment; the images allow me to travel in time in a matter of seconds and revive that moment once more
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India’s Golden Triangle Words & photographs by Laurie Jay Newnman
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‘India has a colour ful rhythm, it has a repetitive sultriness, and it has a ceaseless, burning smell of cheap petrol and dirty smog that clings to your skin. Ye t , s h e h a s a n e f f o r t l e s s c h a r m t h a t i n f i l t ra t e s your memories and leaves you wanting more.’
The countries capital, Delhi, is a metropolitan maze of stray dogs, chai tea stalls and delicate Indian silks. There’s something quite energising about the way that the capitals pulse runs through your veins as you experience the daily commute by tuktuk. Meandering between the medieval lanes of the Old Town, it is impossible to not find yourself either lost, or struggling to not get run over by the sheer chaos. Delhi is made up of 7 cities that can be conveniently accessed by the metro. With the trains made up of separate carriages for women, you begin to feel the unavoidable presence of the gender divide. The epitome of Mughal Delhi stands at the foot of the Red Fort, founded by Shah Jahan between 1638 and 1648. It became the residence for the Mughal emperor for nearly 200 years. The red sandstone architecture is incredibly striking, with its garden design influencing many other regions throughout India including, Rajasthan, Punjab and Kashmir. Delhi provides a gateway to the welltravelled Golden Triangle. The tourist circuit consists of the three most travelled cities of the countries northwest; Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. If Delhi is the metropolitan maze, Agra is the beholder of the most precious architectural jewel; The Taj Mahal. To any hopeless romantic the story of the Taj Mahal is a beautiful one.
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Commissioned in 1632 by the same Mughal emperor of the Red Fort, Shah Jahan, it was made to house the tomb of his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The domed marbled mausoleum stands proud amid the banks of the Yamuna River, and has become the focal attraction of the country. The pink city of Jaipur is the home to one of the cities greatest attractions, The Amer Fort. Built in 1592 by Raja Man Singh, it is placed effortlessly on the edges of the Maotha Lake and in the hills of the Cheel ka Teela- or the ‘Hill of Eagles’. The temple’s name directly translates to ‘the head jewel of the idol of Lord Vishnu’ and echoes the sub-continents history throughout the marbled walls and cobbled paths. In the light of dusk the palace glows like an ember and becomes a moment of peaceful escapism from the hectic foothills of the city. The Golden Triangle is a rewarding experience for any traveller. It marks a well-connected selection of some of India’s most spectacular sites, and can be easily reached by the famous rail network. If the coloniser rewarded India with anything, it was the railway system, now considered the third largest rail network in the world. The intricate network spans every inch of the subcontinent, leaving a plethora of destinations to be unraveled; The Golden Triangle is best as ever a good place to begin.
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Cambodia Words & photographs by Sarah Rose McCann ‘It is the most dangerous country you will ever visit, because you will fall in love with it…and then it will break your heart.’
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‘It is the most dangerous country you will ever visit, because you will fall in love with it... and then it will break your heart.’ Fo r m e r U S a m b a s s a d o r o f C a m b o d i a , Joseph Mussomeli
On first arrival in Cambodia it was a hot June day, having been on the 5am train from Bangkok Hua Lamphong station for over seven hours, the journey had only just begun. The difference in Thailand is instantaneous, as soon as we walked under the decorative gates we could see why Poipet is notorious for its squalor, scams and sleaze. Quickly leaving the border town and setting off to Siem Reap, the journey was full of scams and uncomfortable hard selling, eventually making it to the guesthouse. With a 6am start the following morning, to see the wonder of Angkor Wat; everything about the place just oozed with history and spirituality. Climbing amongst the ruins it cannot be helped to feel like an explorer discovering it for the very first time. The huge tree roots have left their mark on the temples as nature has once again reclaimed the land. The famous scene at the end of Tomb Raider is filmed here and it was a popular place for photographs. There was a lot of touts in the area, but even the hassle did not take away from the experience. Leaving the peaceful tranquillity of the temple ruins, and beginning the journey to the capital of Cambodia, Phom Penh. Upon arriving in the city we instantly gathered our bearings
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and got to experience Khmer hospitality at it’s finest. The friendliness of the people and their willingness to talk about the past, overshadowed the negative experience of the many tuk tuk drivers who would not leave us alone. One of the most poignant moments of the time in Cambodia was going to the Tuel Sleng Genocide Museum, which, during the Pol Pot regime over 20,000 people lost their lives. Visiting this museum or going to the Killing Fields is an important act of remembrance for anyone visiting Cambodia. To really understand this country and the versatility of its people, you have to know the incredible injustice that happened to them, helping to understand why Cambodia feels very far away from its neighbouring countries of Thailand and Vietnam. Regardless of Cambodia’s past the country is looking forward to its future. This beautiful place will leave you feeling a mix of emotions. There will be instances of anger, after being scammed, or overwhelmed with heartache on hearing about its past or witness the extreme poverty. Regardless of what Cambodia throws at you, it will always leave an impression in your mind and no matter how long it has been since you last visited, you will never forget the impact the country has left on you.
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Sacred Peru Words & photographs by Laurie Jay Newman
A visit to South America would be incomplete without a stop at arguably the most sacred country in the world; Peru. Most famously known for the glorious Inca citadel of Machu Picchu, many tourists flock to the Sacred Valley to witness one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Situated in the northwest of the Cusco region at 2,430 metres above sea level, the origins of the mountain still remain a haze of mystery to archaeologists. First discovered by American historian Hiram Bingham in 1911; more than 400 years after the build. Believed to have been built at the height of the Inca Empire and abandoned as a result of the Spanish Conquest. Yet, facts still remain uncertain. The enigma surrounding Machu Picchu adds to the charm that this mountain has to offer its many visitors that stand in awe in front of it. Although Machu Picchu has proven to be the main reason for many travellers’ trips to Peru, there are other elements that are equally as captivating. In ancient Andean belief, the crystals waters of Lake Titicaca is the birthplace of the sun. Boasting the largest
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lake in South America, the deep blue waters contrast against the endless stretch of blue skies. There are many highlights to visiting this lake, one of them being the Islas Uros, the floating civilisation that is still home to the indigenous people of Peru. These islands are made entirely from the buoyant totora reeds that grow in abundance at the bed of the lake; it is on these reeds that the Uros people have built their lives. Originally built to escape the pressures of the Inca and Collas they were able to isolate themselves by constructing a completely separate existence that still exist today. Although isolated, the Uros people welcome travellers to learn about there way of life on their floating homes often with song, dance and stories of their unusual existence. There are many highlights to landing in Peru but the dusty caps of the Andes Mountains still remains one of my favourite aeroplane views. Beginning any journey in Peru offers a gateway to the plethora of countries that South America has to offer. Peru is certainly one country that is not to be left off any bucket list.
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Kaleidoscopic BraSil Words by Olivia Sarah McAdam & photographs by Laurie Jay Newman Rio de Janeiro, the second largest city in Brazil, is a kaleidoscope of culture known for its beaches, carnivals and botanical gardens. The hustle and bustle of the city combined with the tropical forests in the middle of the streets, is a result of current trends colliding with Aztec times. Corcovado Mountain is home to the statue of Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor), one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Christ has been enveloping the people of Rio since 1831, hosting a mesmeric, panoramic view of the city. A fifteen-minute train can be taken to the top of the mountain, or the alternative three-hour hike, a tour to the creatures settled in the woodland amongst the mountain. East of Cristo Redentor is Sugarloaf Mountain. Like the cubes of crumbling sugar, the 395-meter above sea level, the mountain can be accessed via a gondola, but for the more outrageous out there, the option to scale the mountain is there. The view of the majestic Cristo Redentor, Copacobana beach and the green forests will last a lifetime. Visit Sugarloaf at sunset, to catch the amber rays kissing the sparkling sea goodnight and welcoming the blanket of stars. Hidden in the middle of the city center, beyond a high stonewall and a intricately patterned iron gate, is the Rio de Janeiro’s botanical gardens. Home to over 5000 different species of plants, the park is a tranquil shelter from the blistering sun.It is not a trip to Rio, without visiting Copacabana beach. Volleyball
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players, sunbathers and surfers, the beach is always alive. The jagged coastline is the ultimate place to cool off in the clear water. When the sun sets, in an agreed silence, the beach goers all trek up a small hill to watch the sunset behind Sugarloaf mountain, ending with a round of applause. With just a stretch of the leg to the local restaurants and bars, a Brazilian caipirinha is a must to take the edge of the days sun burn, made with Brazil’s national distilled alcohol cachaca; sugar and lime, the zestful flavor sums Brazil up in a glass. Ipanema beach is Rio’s answer to the French Riviera, a slightly more snazzier beach boasts white sands and a calmer atmosphere, however the waves are often too dangerous to ride so a simple dip of the toes in the ocean is called for. In the slightly more gritty part of Rio, just before the favelas, Lapa steps (Escadaria Selaron) is a homage to the people of Brazil from the Chilean born artist Jorge Selaron. 250 steps over 125 meters embraces the multicoloured mosaics individually paved by Selaron. The artist has also featured one tile to every country, a mini hunt to find your home’s tile begins. The United Kingdom has a tile of Princess Diana. The favela’s in Brazil are most dangerous. The urban slums are piled upon the mountainside, however the brightly colour huts add a touch of vibrancy to the city. Rio de Janeiro is a fruity city with a zest for life. A city that never sleeps, and with such natural beauty and character, why would it?
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